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PLAN YOUR ESCAPE
The Sailors Guide
to Winter Getaways p. 56
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Date: 2005.12.12 09:34:15 +08'00'
DECEMBER 2005
CAP’N FATTY GOODLANDER SAYS:
“ Enjoy champagne
voyaging on a
lager budget! ”
HERE’S HOW: P. 38
Circumnavigator
Fatty Goodlander on
his 38-foot Wild Card
SAFETY
AT SEA
$4.99
Canada $5.99
How to manage
your boat in
heavy weather
p. 68
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DECEMBER 2005
In the B.V.I., the view from a
Moorings 4700 catamaran is
grand. Photograph by Herb
McCormick.
FEATURES
38 The Sea Gypsy’s Guide
WINTER
GETAWAYS
to the Oceans
If you don’t have a big wallet to take you around the
world, then you’ll have to sail a little differently from
those who do
by Cap’n Fatty Goodlander
44 Rivers That Reach Back
56 Fathers and
Daughters
38
into Time
by Herb McCormick
If Trinidad is still on the Caribbean cruisers’ Main
Street, then Venezuela’s Península de Paria, with
its intact indigenous cultures, is the open frontier
62 Winter
by Jane Gibb
50 A New Dynasty for Ta Yang
44
YACHT STYLE
The Tayana 64 Deck Salon takes this longtime
Taiwan boatyard into a new era based on Western
building practices
DECEMBER 2005
Getaways
for Fathers,
Daughters, and
Every Other
Charterer
From Grenada to Florida,
we offer a listing of the
season’s best deals in
sailing vacations
by Kenny Wooton
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
Three mates and their four
girls take a spin through
the B.V.I. on a big cat
56
by Elaine Lembo
5
SAF E T Y AT S E A
68 Time to Put on the Brakes
Boathandling: Boat speed is all well and good
until you’ve got too much of it
by Beth A. Leonard
74 Sailing in Slow Motion
Seamanship: While heaving to has its uses in
heavy weather, sometimes forereaching is the
better bet
by Beth A. Leonard
80 A Drogue Above the Rest
74
Voyaging: Recent studies show that in big seas,
a series of smaller drogues can be better than a
single large one
TH E SAI LI N G LI F E
by Hal Roth
12 Shoreline
Grenada’s post-Ivan
recovery, Captain Nat’s
Reliance revisited, People
and Food, and more
edited by
Elaine Lembo
86 A Trip South Goes Down
with the Para-chute
Offshore Sailing: During a winter blow in the
North Atlantic, the learning curve with a sea anchor
turns destructive
30
by Ashley Butler
24 Under Way
He’d done many things
over his lifetime of
voyaging and living
aboard, but returning to
the boat from someplace
else was seldom one
of them
R E VI E WS
88 Convertible, Fast, and Fun
Boat Test: The Maine Cat 41, a daggerboard cat
with an open bridgedeck, is designed for quick
island-hopping
88
by Alvah Simon
92 Compulsively Creative
by Webb Chiles
Boat Review: The German-built Dehler 47 is
designed by Judel/Vrolijk & Co. and built for speed
30 Passage Notes
Diving Fakarava’s remote
south pass is a Tuamotus
thrill that’ll put you face to
face with the local sharks
by Dieter Loibner
94
93 Weapon of Mass Production
Boat Review: The Bavaria 42 Cruiser marks a
new direction for this prolific German boatbuilder
by Gwen Hamlin
by Dieter Loibner
160 Log of Ithaka
It’s worth going to Port
Antonio, Jamaica, just to
meet the matriarchs of
the open-air food stalls
who rule the roost
by Douglas Bernon
94 The Imelda Effect Meets
160
D E PARTM E NTS
9 Editor’s Log
the Cruising Set
New Products: If your notion of deck shoes stops
with moccasin soles and leather tassels, then
welcome to the world of resin-infused footwear
by Elaine Lembo
10 Mailbag
97 Chartering News
141 Holiday Gift Guide
158 Advertiser Index
Cover: Photograph by Bobby Grieser
6
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
EDITOR’S LOG
EDITOR
Herb McCormick
Director of Design William Roche
Executive Editor Tim Murphy
Managing Editor Elaine Lembo
Senior Editor Jeremy McGeary
Associate Editor Mark Pillsbury
Copy Editor John Wilson
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Gary Jobson, Cap’n Fatty Goodlander, Ralph Naranjo,
Angus Phillips, Kenny Wooton
Contributing Editors Douglas Bernon, Jimmy Cornell,
Barbara Marrett, Nim Marsh, Lynda Morris Childress,
Michel Savage, Alvah Simon, Diana Simon
Editorial Assistant Sue Fennessey
Associate Art Director Joan Taylor Westman
Designer Shannon Cain
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Liftoff
T
here are some days when I merely think I’ve got one of the
best jobs in the world, and there are other days when I’m
completely certain of it. From a pure thrills point of view,
last October 12 was one of the latter. Actually, it started off
pretty average: The wind was blowing a solid 20 knots out of the northeast, the passing rain showers were biting, and the lumpy Chesapeake
Bay was gray and nasty. On top of that, our four-person, independent
Boat of the Year (BOTY) judging panel—whose efforts to determine
the best boats for 2006 I was overseeing—had no fewer than seven vessels to sail
that day in the challenging conditions. Yes, the sailing was terrific, but the whole
exercise also felt a lot like work. And then we boarded the Gunboat 48 catamaran.
Gunboat founder Peter Johnstone built hull number one of the new 48-foot line
for himself, and he optimized every inch of the boat to be a no-holds-barred sailing machine. For future Gunboat owners, Peter will “compromise” the Morrelli &
Melvin design with all manner of creature comforts, but for his own family cruising, he took a
minimalist’s approach to accommodations and
systems while maxing out the speed potential of
the carbon/Kevlar rocketship.
To top it off, he painted it a color he describes as
“metallic lime green.” I’d already sailed the Gunboat in Rhode Island in light airs a couple of weeks
earlier, so I had a very general idea of what we were
in for. But as we stepped aboard, I glanced back at Gunboat: Going, going . . .
the judges and saw four sets of very wide eyes. They were about to get wider.
Peter’s pure joy of sailing is infectious, and it wasn’t long before he had us swapping the helm while sailing closehauled in 30 knots of apparent breeze and knocking off speeds of 10 and 11 knots. Then he flashed a crooked smile and asked a fateful question: “Want to see what she does off the breeze with the asymmetric?”
Truthfully, it wasn’t necessary. We were judging the boat on its merits as a family performance cruiser and didn’t require a glimpse of its potential in hot-rod
mode. But I took one look at judges Bill “Fast is Fun” Lee and multihull veteran
Peter Hogg, who’d sailed the Morrelli & Melvin maxi-catamaran PlayStation in
speed trials all over the world, and realized the cat was well and truly out of the bag.
So up came the daggerboards, and up went the big blue kite with Peter J.—
thankfully—on the helm and Hogg and Lee on the spin sheet and mainsheet, respectively. What happened next happened very quickly. The starboard hull started
rising. The apparent wind wound forward. We hit 16 knots, then 16.5, then 17.8.
The hull rose some more. Standing next to Peter, I watched him throw the wheel
down hard. Nothing. Then a command: “Blow the sheets!”
That got us back on our feet, but there seemed to be one small problem, other
than the smoked Spectra spin sheet that was now toast: no steering. Peter switched
on the engine and threw down the throttle, and finally, order was resumed. The
spinnaker was returned to its sock. Peter had a look aft, and another of life’s mysteries was solved. The port carbon rudder was long gone.
So now I can honestly say I know what happens when a big, stripped-down cat
flies a hull, lifts one rudder into space, loses the other, and has nothing in the realm
of blades in the water to counteract the forces aloft. Wipeout!
Next month, in our January issue, we’ll reveal more details of our October sailing trials and also present our slate of Boat of the Year winners for 2006. As for
Peter, he’ll have the Gunboat 48 in Miami this winter for anyone interested in an
unreal sailing experience. He’s clearly another guy who loves his work.
Herb McCormick
9
MAILBAG
(mailbag@cruisingworld.com)
Anchoring: a Call to Arms
B
RAVO ON YOUR TIMELY ARTICLE
on the anchoring ban in
Miami Beach (“Miami
Vice,” Editor’s Log, August). Maritime tradition
dictates that anchoring off,
for whatever reason and for however long
it requires, is a right of sailors. This is necessitated by the need to wait for favorable weather, to repair or replace broken
gear before going offshore, or to rest the
crew before an ocean crossing. When a
municipal ordinance forces a boat to violate these parameters, then the municipality assumes the risk and responsibility
for the boat’s safety. Should a boat be
damaged or sunk and sailors harmed or
lives lost, the court case would make a liability lawyer salivate.
The waterways are public domain and
are maintained (and, in the case of the Intracoastal Waterway, were built) by the
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. I can’t find
the logic behind a city or town usurping
that authority. We all pay federal taxes,
and the feeble argument that sailors don’t
pay property taxes is bunk. The last
time I looked, federal has
trumped local since the Civil
War was settled.
I’ve sailed for almost 30 years—
traveling, living, and working on
the water, living in accordance with
the laws of God and man, and always leaving a clean wake. This issue
is right up there with “life, liberty, and
the pursuit of happiness.” It’s time to
stand up and be counted. I urge all sailors
and lovers of sailing to make their feelings known to their senators and to businessmen alike.
M. Dee Durand
Annapolis, MD
The Flagon with the Dragon . . .
H ERB M C C ORMICK WROTE , “Y ES , THE
America’s Cup has always been about
money. But only recently has the money
become so obscene” (“Empty Cup,” Editor’s Log, September). This is sentimental
nonsense. Since the Cup has always been
about money, the money has always been
obscene. Take good Sir Thomas Lipton
10
and the Assam tea farmers and British
merchant sailors upon whose backs he
made his pile. I would hazard that Larry
Ellison’s wealth is a closer multiple of Oracle’s average worker’s than Lipton’s was of
his. And is the money wasted by the rich
on their meaningless, ritualized, timewasting pursuits a smaller proportion of
the world’s income than it has ever been?
McCormick writes further that
Bertarelli and Ellison “conspired to
change the rules to suit their needs to ensure that [Russell] Coutts . . . doesn’t sail
in the next event.” Shades of the New
York Yacht Club trying to outlaw bulb
keels! The America’s Cup has always been
a bag job, even if it was for so long our
very own bag job. The whole point of the
old rule that a challenger had to sail to the
venue was to force the British to build
oceangoing craft unsuited for the lighter
airs off New York. For a century and
more, the host yacht club set the rules so
as to disqualify its most puissant challengers before they even started. Today is
no different; nor, arguably, should
it be. He who has the gold rules.
The savage satisfaction I take in
seeing the likes of Dennis Conner and the New York Yacht
Club priced out of the competition is in direct proportion to their previous arrogance, self-satisfaction,
and pomposity. And if eventually some Chinese post-capitalist kazillionaire outdoes Ernesto Bertarelli in bad
taste, chutzpah, ill temper, and pride so
that he wins the Cup for the Yangtze “Yellow Silt” Yacht Club, I’ll admire that, too.
McCormick’s suffering from nostalgia, an
affliction of middle age induced by emotional lethargy. A thick patina of money
polished by the passing of years will make
Ellison and Bertarelli as colorful in retrospect as McCormick now finds Baron
Bich and Ted Turner. But in the meantime, remember the words of the prophet
Bob Dylan: “Money doesn’t talk, it
swears.” And it does so at all times and in
any and all languages.
James McCarty Yeager
Bethesda, MD
Lump-in-Throat Dept.
W ITH REGARD TO FATTY G OODLANDER’ S
article on Carlotta and her tragic loss and
subsequent discovery (“Visiting the
Grave,” On Watch, September), I must say
this: I’m a strong man and a hard man,
and I’m very, very rarely given to emotions. The tears I shed reading of your encounter with your lost love made me feel
more human than anything I’ve experienced in a long time. I thank you with
much gratitude for sharing this intensely
personal story, and I offer my heartfelt
condolences for the loss of your dear Carlotta. For whatever kind of man that I am,
I think that you raised Roma to have
greater stones than I. God bless you all.
Wes Patrick
Milton, FL
One Stepping Stone More
THE UPDATES ON RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN
Central America and Mexico provided by
the Rainses (“Step by Step from Coast to
Coast,” August and September) should be
very helpful. One recent important development didn’t make it into the article. A
Travelift and dry storage are now available at Bahía del Sol in El Salvador. Boats
arriving there will be escorted across the
bar by Murray and Colette of the sailing
vessel Terazed, who also own and operate
the Travelift and dry-storage facility.
Brant Calkin
s/v Bruja
Mission Accomplished
AFTER ALMOST 30 YEARS OF SUBSCRIBING TO
Cruising World and years of dreaming of
cruising, we’ve finally bought our newto-us cruising boat, a Cabo Rico 38. We’ll
start our cruise in Mazatlán, Mexico, in
October. Please cancel our subscription
to your wonderful magazine.
Bill and Jo-Anne Sylvester
North Cooking Lake, Alberta, Canada
Ranger Relocated
THE ARTICLE ABOUT JOHN MECRAY’S PAINTing of Ranger (“Ranger Rides Again,” October) gave the wrong page number for
the advertisement for the print. The ad
appears on page 139 of the October issue.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
SHORE
T HE WAY PEOPLE IN G RENADA
talk now, you’d think Hurricane Ivan did them a favor.
After all, Ivan broke the
spell—one that had lasted
for over half a century—that
the Spice Island was safely
out of the hurricane belt.
When Ivan’s 140-mile-an12
hour winds arrived on September 7, 2004, it didn’t just
catch islanders off guard.
Their complacency about
storm prep was rooted in a
fantasy that their home, just
beneath 12 degrees north,
would remain impervious to
hurricanes forever.
It was a fantasy that had
caught on. Before Ivan, insurers
called Grenada a “non-hurricane zone.” Marina plans surfaced; along the south coast,
construction on marina-andcondominium combinations in
Prickly Bay and Woburn Bay
got under way at a fast clip. The
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
ON N E VAN DE R WAL
The Spice Lives
LINE
Edited by Elaine Lembo
Against a backdrop of blue tarps, the
workboat fleet races in the Grenada
Sailing Festival 2005.
island’s two biggest boatyards—Spice Island Marine
and Grenada Marine—expanded haulout and storage facilities. Cruisers started talking
about taking their boats to
Grenada for haulout and refit
instead of sailing the extra miles
to Trinidad. Chandleries and
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
canvas businesses started up.
Behind the development
frenzy were facts. Recommendations in a 2001 report of the
U.N.-sponsored Economic
Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean included statistics revealing that the
cruising community con-
tributed nearly half of the
country’s annual gross
tourism receipts, about three
times more than the amount
from cruise-ship visits.
To address Grenada’s increasing popularity, the Board
of Tourism created the position of development officer
13
SHORELINE
Jason Fletcher, owner of Grenada
Marine, checks a boat’s ratchet straps
and cradle, two key components of the
yard’s post-Ivan innovations.
14
ticularly instrumental is the Agency for
Reconstruction and Development, set up
by the Grenadian government to coordinate domestic reconstruction activity.
The marine industry has worked hard
to ensure that a decade of growth isn’t
compromised. Acknowledging that their
home is indeed susceptible to hurricanes,
the marine sector has redoubled its safety
and maintenance procedures. The scene is
lively again, crews have returned, and
begun registering boats in the popular LaSource Grenada Sailing Festival, which
takes place January 27 to 31, 2006, off the
island’s southwest coast.
For Horizon Yacht Charters, the island’s sole bareboat company, bookings
are up. “We’ve come a very long way,” said
James Pascall, director. “There’s been a
lot of growth in the marine sector of
Grenada’s economy, and it’s continuing.”
Pascall is working with MAYAG to simplify customs procedures for bareboaters
as well as for cruising sailors.
At both Grenada Marine and the harder-hit Spice Island Marine, the pace is
starting to feel familiar again. According to
Justin Evans, general manager at Spice Island, when Ivan hit, the boatyard, in its
21st year of business, had just put the finishing touches on a major expansion and
relocation across Prickly Bay. “The timing
of Ivan was unbelievable,” said Evans.“The
weekend before, we were sitting around
saying that it’s the first time a bunch of
Grenadians are making money. Obviously,
business is off this year, but next year we
should be right back where it was.”
Despite the massive destruction to its
physical plant as well as to the 170 boats on
its premises, the yard has repaired every-
BEFORE AND AFTER: Ivan’s calling
card is deposited at Spice Island Marine
(above, left); a year later and with the
same hillside as backdrop, the yard and
staff (above) make a comeback.
thing, improved facilities, and expanded
services. Catamarans and monohulls are
stored separately, as are boats with and
without rigs; all hauled boats are tied
down to anchorage points on the ground.
Grenada Marine, at St. David’s, experienced much less storm damage, but it too
turned adversity into an opportunity, according to Laura Fletcher, who runs the
business with her husband, Jason, when
she’s not acting on behalf of MAYAG.
Among other changes, the yard has installed a ground anchoring system for
hauled boats, a new cradle system, and
mast racks; it’s also rebuilt three buildings
on its premises, resurfaced ground covering, and constructed a new dinghy dock.
So maybe Ivan really did do Grenada a
favor. Evans of Spice Island Marine is certainly convinced.
“I think people will be absolutely
shocked when they see Grenada,” he said.
“The trees have their leaves. Every restaurant that was open before Ivan is now
open again. The island is continuing to
move forward.”
Cruisers interested in MAYAG or information about sailing to Grenada this
winter may e-mail Fletcher (mayag@
caribsurf.com). Find general information
about Grenada by e-mailing Danny
Donelan at the Board of Tourism
(ddonelan@grenadagrenadines.com) or
by visiting the board’s website (www.
grenadagrenadines.com).
Elaine Lembo
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
AP PHOTO/ PETE R AN DR EW B OSCH (TOP, LE FT), COU RTESY OF J USTI N EVANS (TOP, R IGHT), COU RTESY OF LAU RA FLETCHE R
for yachting and cruise ships. It also invited Laura Fletcher, president of the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada
(MAYAG), to join the board. Fletcher became not just a liaison for the private sector and sailors but also an ambassador for
the country in its efforts to distinguish itself from St. Vincent and the Grenadines
and attract forms of tourism with
longterm benefits to residents.
What a difference a day can make.
When Ivan came, it brought widespread destruction totaling nearly
US$900 million, according to the Grenadian government. Direct damage to 400
of the 800 sailboats on the island at the
time was estimated at US$40.5 million.
But no less stunning is the speed with
which the recovery’s begun. Substantial
help came from Caribbean and North
American governments, international
agencies including USAID, humanitarian
groups, and the Cuban government. Par-
SHORELINE
FRESH OUT OF COLLEGE AND SPENDING THE piece of naval and
He visited Fairlie,
summer of 1997 in Newport, Rhode Is- aeronautical engiScotland, where Shamland, as deckhand aboard Shamrock V, neering in the
rock III’s designer,
Chris Pastore experienced a memorable world” but one conWilliam Fife Jr., and
afternoon when the grace and power of sidered by some as
the Fife yard turned
Sir Thomas Lipton’s famous green-hulled too dangerous to
out its beautiful boats,
J-class yacht became apparent.
sail and, by critics in
and from there he visitReturning from a day on the water, the the British press, as
ed the famed Denny
midafternoon sea breeze built as the boat “a mongrel” crossFlow Tank, where Fife
rounded Fort Adams and the skipper de- breed consisting of
and longtime rival
cided on a full-canvas harbor burn.
bad designs.
George Watson (deWith the rail in the water and her 155The book opens
signer of Shamrock II
foot rig rakishly sweeping past moored with Captain Nat
and retained by Lipton
boats, Shamrock V was making close to 12 sitting at his desk
as co-designer and
knots as she completed her tour. Pastore and contemplating
consultant for Shamrecalls that the crew dropped sail and the a letter from New
rock III) tested their
boat glided to the mooring—only to be York Yacht Club
hull design.
met there by the harbormaster, who is- member Charles
Pastore said the access
sued them a speeding ticket.
Iselin asking him
he was given, especially
Little did he know at the time that his to design and build The exploits of wealthy sportsmen in to Herreshoff’s papers,
summer spent on Shamrock V, further a fifth America’s an era of emergent national pride
was invaluable. Others,
derailing his plans to pursue a career as a Cup
defender. spice the tale of the America’s Cup
for instance, had writdefender Reliance.
biologist, would lead instead to his trans- Fresh in his mind
ten of Herreshoff’s disformation into a maritime writer and, was his previous design of Constitution, appointment that Constitution had been
with the appearance of Temple to the a boat that was swept aside by the club passed over in the 1901 challenge. But in
Wind (The Lyons Press, $23), a published two years earlier in favor of his 1899 de- reviewing never-before-released correauthor and historian.
fender, Columbia. With his yard over- spondence, Pastore discovered that HerreTemple to the Wind is the carefully re- whelmed with work and his wife ill, the shoff felt strongly that while Columbia had
searched story of the Nathanael Her- 54-year-old Herreshoff decided that been helmed by the very experienced
reshoff-designed Reliance and her suc- he’d lost his touch and responded with a Charlie Barr (who later drove Reliance to
cessful 1903 defense of the America’s Cup letter turning down the work.
victory), Constitution had been skippered
against Lipton’s earlier
Luckily, Iselin prevailed. by an amateur and that his design and the
yacht, Shamrock III.
Herreshoff agreed to build yacht, as a result, had never were given a
But it’s more than a book
a boat so bold and so radi- fair chance. When Constitution soundly
about two boats in one Cup
cal that Lipton’s third chal- defeated Columbia in the 1903 trials,
series. Temple to the Wind
lenge for the Cup would be Herreshoff clearly felt vindicated.
recounts the remarkable
his last, thus saving the
Pastore brought boxes of his research to
career of Captain Nat,
New York Yacht Club and Prague. Teaching an online writing course
which began when, as a 9its members the expense part-time for The New School, the uniyear-old, he was pressed
of continually defending versity based in New York City, most of
into service to help his
their long-held trophy— his effort went into bringing Temple to the
blind older brother, John
Wind to life.
or so they thought.
Brown Herreshoff, build a
“It’s conducive to writing,” he said of the
Pastore moved to Prague
small sailing skiff at their
last year with his wife, landlocked and gray Prague, admitting he
home in Bristol, Rhode Is- A summer spent in NewSusan. Before that, he spent became stir-crazy being so far from the
land. It tells how the port as deckhand aboard
the better part of two years ocean. So for a guy who grew up on the
a J-class yacht inspired
Herreshoff yard came to
in a self-directed crash bay in Barrington, Rhode Island, there was
Chris Pastore to become
dominate Cup racing and a maritime writer.
course in yacht design, just one thing to do last spring after he
boatbuilding in an era
19th-century history, and completed the manuscript: He and his
when the Wright brothers were learning the details surrounding a cast of characters wife headed off to Vassiliki, Greece, for two
to fly and the nation was emerging as an hailing from both sides of the Atlantic. He weeks of nearly constant windsurfing.
economic and military power.
“We’re leaving the gray,” he told his
pored through Captain Nat’s letters and
Temple is also a tale of wealthy sports- other documents and through the detailed wife. “We’re going to go get on the water
men, of national pride, and legendary ex- records kept by the New York Yacht Club. and do what we’re supposed to do.
cesses that would lead to the building of He traveled to Northern Ireland to visit the
“The reason I wrote the book was beReliance, a boat then considered to be, in Royal Ulster Yacht Club, from which Lip- cause I love boats.”
Mark Pillsbury
Pastore’s words, “the most sophisticated ton issued his challenge to the Americans.
16
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF TH E LYONS PR ESS
The Age of Reliance and an America’s Cup Dynasty
SHORELINE
Faring Well in Tonga
Catamaran Convoy Lets
Loose in the Bahamas
CRUISERS FROM NEW ZEALAND
usually head up to “the islands”—Tonga and Fiji—
to escape the winter blues.
One winter when the
weather turned chilly, my
husband, Andy, and I decided
to do likewise. We packed and provisioned our 42-foot gaff cutter, Balaena,
and with our three kids, we set off from
New Zealand for adventure.
Leaving the coast was rough, but after a
few days, the weather settled down, we
found our sea legs, and we began to enjoy
the passage. As soon as we entered the
trade winds, we stowed our winter clothes
and soaked up the sunshine on deck.
For the first time in its 10-year history,
Manta Catamarans staged a five-day rendezvous in the spring of 2005. Nearly a
quarter of the 100 Manta cats built gathered at the Manta Migration in Marsh
Harbour, Abaco Islands.
Festivities started at the marina’s Jib
Room for the crews of the 23 catamarans
Spicy Coconut Chicken
1 onion, diced
Oil for sautéing
2 tablespoons ginger, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 small chili peppers
1 teaspoon lime zest
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 can coconut milk
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, diced
1 1/2 cups chopped pineapple or firm
mango
1 red pepper, diced
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
18
Juice of 2 limes
Sauté onion in oil until soft. Add ginger,
garlic, chili peppers, lime zest, and
turmeric. Sauté for 1 minute, adding a
few drops of coconut milk or a little more
oil if the mixture gets too dry. Add chicken and sauté for 5 minutes. Add coconut
milk, pineapple/mango (canned pineapple will do), red pepper, cilantro, and lime
juice. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for another five minutes. Serve over steaming
rice. Serves four.
The 23 crews of the Manta Migration
held their first rally in the Abacos.
who made the trek south in their Manta
40s, 42s, and 42 Mark IIs.
The inaugural Great Race to Little Harbour got under way with 18 of the boats
competing. After the friendly 20-plus-mile
race, Pete’s Pub was the scene for the
awards ceremony and pig roast. Pete’s
Blasters (a rum drink) kept the party lively. Local live music was supplemented by
the musical talents of Mike Hubbard and
the Manta Maniacs. Mike and his wife,
Terri, live on their boat six months a year;
he—a retired music teacher—also provided a nightly saxophone solo at sundown
from the decks of his boat.
Crews plan a return to the Abacos or a
potential new venture to the Exumas, the
Florida Keys, or even the Left Coast. For
updates, check the Manta Mantra
newsletter or contact the company
(941-358-8118, 877-358-8118, manta
catamarans.com).
Dan Even with Brian Comfort
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
LYN DA MOR R IS CH ILDR ESS (LE FT), COU RTESY OF MANTA
After 10 days, Tongatapu, the largest
landmass in the islands of Tonga, appeared as a silhouette against a red and orange sunset. We kept sailing north to the
coral island group of Ha’apai. Negotiating
the off-lying reefs, Balaena sailed through
vibrant blue water, nosed into a turquoise
lagoon, and anchored near a low, green
islet. Crystal-clear water lapped white
sandy beaches while coconut palms
swayed in the balmy trade winds. We
swam, snorkeled, beachcombed, ate fresh
coconuts, and ended each day sipping
cool drinks in the glow of splendid sunsets. There were no other boats in sight.
Our next stop was Vava’u, the northernmost cluster of islands in Tonga.
Green and hilly, with protected anchorages tucked in behind headlands, these
islands offer countless beaches and reefs.
The town of Neiafu has a lively produce
market where we filled our
baskets; friendly stallkeepers told us how to cook the
root vegetables. One smiling lady invited us to
church on a Sunday.
The Mormon congregation’s singing was sweet and
beautiful. After the twohour service, our friend and
her family treated us to a
magnificent island feast—
dishes of fish, shellfish, and
chicken marinated in lime or
cooked in coconut milk,
fried plantains, mashed taro,
and sweet drinks made from
fresh-squeezed custard
apple. We left with fond memories and
new friends, and later, aboard Balaena, we
prepared our own version of some of the
Ulla Norlander
delicious food.
SHORELINE
Bookstore a Dinghy Ride Away
THE WORST PART OF MOVING A BUSINESS IS,
well, the move itself. But the best part?
“We didn’t close at all. We sold books
right out of the box.”
From the new digs at Bluewater Books
and Charts in Fort Lauderdale, Florida,
that’s the post-shuffle assessment straight
Bluewater Books and Charts moves
across the street and makes big gains
in space.
from lifelong sailor and bookstore employee Melanie Neale, also known to
many CW readers from her time aboard
Chez Nous with her parents, Tom and Mel
Neale, former CW contributors.
There are other obvious benefits to the
move for the company, says Melanie, who
works in marketing and as a writing consultant for Bluewater, which has been a
valuable resource to the sailing community for more than 20 years.
In its move across the street in the
downtown district, the store has gained
40 percent more space, which will allow it
to expand its electronic-chart department, conduct navigation seminars, and
host author talks. Bluewater has also been
able to broaden its array of fiction, field
guides, cookbooks, and non-nautical
books. And last but not least, bigger space
means store owners Vivien Godfrey and
John Mann have more room to accommodate their growing library of more
than 35,000 paper charts.
The store’s new address is 1811 Cordova Road. Just park the dinghy, Melanie
says, at the dock at South Port Raw Bar.
For more details, contact Bluewater (954763-6533, www.bluewaterweb.com),
which also owns Armchair Sailor bookstore in Newport, Rhode Island.
Thelma and the Pardeys
Lin and Larry Pardey love engineless
wooden boats. They built two, logging well
over 100,000 sea miles in the little craft.
Their first boat was the 24-foot Seraffyn;
their next was the not-so-much bigger
Taleisin, a 29-footer.
Now the Pardeys have gone big—really
big, at least for them. Their latest boat is
the 37-foot Thelma, a 110-year-old gaff
cutter that’s the oldest racer in New
Zealand, where the Pardeys nest during
the summers in the Southern Hemisphere.
Like a stray cat or dog, the boat needed
tender loving care, and the Pardeys figured
E.L. with Henry Kerins
Wise Words, Revived, from Old Salt Street
20
His trenchant views aren’t always welcome
to the owners, let alone to the designers or
the builders. But Street’s continuous stirring of the pot made for entertaining and informative
reading when Seawise was first
published back in 1979.
Now he’s found that with a
bit of light rewriting on some
of the original chapters, plus a
fresh prologue and epilogue,
Seawise ($26; backin
print.com) can sail again.
It’s rugged stuff. Yet it’s touchingly nostalgic, too. It’s not really a bunkside book; it’s much too nautical for that. But it would be a real blessing
if you’re stuck in an airport, as it provides
330 pages of guaranteed total escapism
from the tedium of everyday life.
W.M. Nixon
The venerable Thelma sails flat out with a
quartering breeze.
they were the right couple to lavish just
that on the slim speedster.
“She’s only a sliver of a thing,” Lin says.
And she’s not kidding. The boat’s beam is
only seven feet six inches.
Built of kauri wood using copper rivets,
Thelma is triple-skinned from keel to bilge
stringer and double-skinned from there
up. As much as 96 percent of the hull is
original and in good condition. Remarkably, the rig also dates back more than a
century and, says Lin, “still has lots of life
left in it.” Thelma has aged well indeed.
The Pardeys will get her into racing trim
as quickly as possible, then gradually restore her. And, no, they haven’t given up
Taleisin; they’ve just added a new member
to the family.
David W. Shaw
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF B LU EWATE R B OOKS (TOP, LEFT), LI N PAR DEY (TOP, R IG HT), SHANNON CAI N
Don Street is a game old bird. He may be
looking out from the other side of 75, but
he just keeps on sailing. And talking. And
when he isn’t sailing and
talking, he’s writing and
airing his views and
spreading the word, churning out tomes on seamanship and sailing directions
by the mile.
For years, he’s been inextricably linked with Iolaire,
the venerable yawl. She
turned 100 in 2005, and
he’s obsessed with her. But
Don Street’s ocean-sailing total
of around 300,000 miles has encompassed
an enormous variety of other boats. On
every last one of them—and their gear—
he has an opinion, and he heroically resists
any temptation to keep his mouth shout.
SHORELINE
A Fishy Tale
ing the unpleasant prospect of abandoning ship in the midst of the Indian Ocean.
Then the electric pump clogged.
For a while, it looked as though the boat
was doomed. But after 20 minutes of concerted effort, the water level dropped, just
a little. Both Williams and Upton then
clearly heard the ocean
shooting in near the
mast. Peering closely
at the four-inch-thick
oak frame and cedarplanked hull, the skipper’s eyes widened as
he stared at the bill of a
swordfish protruding
seven inches into the
bilge. “I couldn’t believe it. But it was no
dream,” he says.
Working fast, he
managed to slow
the leak, but not
stop it. Faraway
limped into the Maldives, where he hired a diver to seal the
gaps around the swordfish bill, which he
couldn’t get out because it was wedged
too tightly. Extracting the sword had to
wait until he had the boat hauled at
D.W.S.
Phuket, Thailand.
Island Wise
According to Seacology, a nonprofit nongovernmental organization dedicated to
preserving the environments and cultures
of islands worldwide, more than 50 percent
of all recent animal extinctions have occurred on islands. In the United States, 72
percent of all plant and animal extinctions
have occurred in the Hawaiian Islands.
And what about those mangroves that provide cruisers with shelter in tropical storms
and are home to bountiful wildlife? More
than 50 percent of the world’s mangrove
forests have already been destroyed.
These are depressing statistics. But Seacology is working for change, and in doing so,
it’s reaching out to island peoples to help
improve their quality of life and to encourage environmental conservation. For example, at Vuna, a village on Taveuni island in
22
A young dancer from the island of Yap,
in the Federated States of Micronesia,
where Seacology funds are used to restore the ancient Tamilyog Stone Path.
Fiji, the nonprofit is building a kindergarten
in exchange for the establishment of a
4,752-acre forest preserve and two protected
marine areas totaling 3,100 acres.
To learn more, visit the Seacology website (www.seacology.org).
D.W.S.
A Classic Plastic Victory
in the Marion-Bermuda
Gus MacDonald’s overall win last June in
the 2005 Marion to Bermuda Cruising
Yacht Race (marionbermuda.com) proves
you don’t need the latest hull form to win
an important ocean race. Gus restored and
updated Panacea, his 38-year old Hinckley
Pilot 35, with new winches, electronics,
and a carbon-fiber mast that’s taller than
the original. But more important, he and
his crew of Malcolm Poole, Steve Morrow,
and Jack Thomas sailed Panacea with an
intimate knowledge of the boat’s likes and
dislikes, gleaned from four previous Marion-Bermuda races. “It’s like the boat talks
to you when she’s not happy,” said one of
the crew members in describing one of the
40 sail changes performed over the course
of the race.
This year, the biennial race featured 75
boats, each equipped with a transponder
so family and friends could track the participants’ progress by logging on to iBoat
Track (iboattrack.com).
Also new this year, the race added a
doublehanded class. Visions of Johanna, a
62-foot Chuck Paine design sailed by Bill
Strassberg and Graham Schweikert, and
Choucas, Fred Cosandey’s Jeanneau SF 36,
proved the worth of modern autopilots
and sailhandling systems with secondplace finishes in Class A and Class B, respectively. Multihulls raced for the first
time, too, with Lars Svensson and Heartsease Larus Roc topping the seven-boat
class with an elapsed time of 2d:16h:45m.
Bill Seifert
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
SPECTR U M PHOTO (TOP), COU RTESY OF SEACOLOGY, I LLUSTRATION BY PETE R HORJ US
T HE 38- FOOT WOODEN KETCH FARAWAY
surged toward Galle, Sri Lanka, making
good time with the brisk southwesterly
monsoon winds and a steady push from
the Somalia current. She was 12 days and
roughly 1,200 miles out from Kilifi,
Kenya, with the nearest land, the Maldives, about 800
miles downwind.
But Captain
John Williams’
sense of well-being
quickly vanished
when he awoke to
discover knee-deep
water sloshing in
the cabin. How
could this be happening? he thought,
as he and his crew, Jo
Upton, checked seacocks and hoses, but
found nothing amiss.
They rushed to the
manual bilge pumps and
flipped on the high capacity electric pump
for good measure, and pumped and
pumped some more, forcing at least 75
gallons of brine per minute back out into
the sea. The water continued pouring into
the boat, and Williams began contemplat-
UNDER
WAY
My best return to
the boat was in
New Zealand’s
Bay of Islands
Many Happy Returns
D
ESPITE MY BEST EFFORTS, I KEEP HAVING NEW EX-
periences. Just a few weeks ago, I removed
wallpaper from the bathroom. (I didn’t say
that all the new experiences were good ones.)
And last week I had what is still a relatively
new experience for me: I returned to the boat.
For several decades, I never returned to whatever boat I
owned because I never left it. The boat—even the 18-foot open
boat Chidiock Tichborne—was my only home.
I thought then, and I think now, that maintaining a boat is a
full-time job. Not that it can’t be done part-time, but it’s more
difficult. A boat, like any other machine, needs to be used. In the
past, I often watched others come back to their boats to find batteries dead, engines recalcitrant, seacocks blocked, and wires
corroded. And now that I spend about half my time on opposite
sides of the world, I arrive at my boat and find such things, too.
The worst return was last year in Tahiti, where I’d left The
Hawke of Tuonela at the Tahiti Nautic Center, near Taravao,
while I flew back to Boston to spend time with Carol, my wife.
The original plan was to haul the boat and store her on the
hard. I was assured that draft and weight weren’t a problem because the Nautic Center could haul a boat as large as 50 feet.
It had been more than 20 years since I’d been down to Port
Phaeton, as it’s properly known, a town about 25 nautical miles
south of Papeete, and so I was pleasantly surprised to find that
life down island is still reasonably tranquil, at least when compared with Papeete, which quite simply is toast. Even Papeete’s
own tourist literature talks about traffic jams and ugly, mismatched buildings.
I was less pleased when the Nautic Center tried to haul the boat
by sending a one-sided cradle down a rickety marine railway. I’ve
never before seen such a cradle. Why there are supports on only
the port side I do not know. That the tractor engine failed to pull
my moderate-displacement sloop from the water I do know.
With my airplane flight scheduled for two days later, the only
alternative seemed to be to leave the boat at anchor in the la-
24
goon, where it would probably be safe. But the director of the
Nautic Center said he thought I could get into the center’s small
dredged basin at high tide, though The Hawke of Tuonela’s sixfoot-eight-inch draft is several inches deeper than the stated
depth. It worked. We eased in by an inch or maybe less and tied
up in front of a café with loud live music. Then I left.
Two and a half months later I returned. Carol flew with me.
We found the boat full of mold and spiders. I have no problem
with spiders in moderation. But this was spiders in excess.
We borrowed a chainsaw and cut enough spider webs to
squeeze through the companionway, then killed enough of the
mold to be able to sit down in the cabin. Later I discovered that
the cockpit-mounted engine-control lever had irreparably corroded. The throttle worked, but the gear shift didn’t.
After waiting two days for a mechanic who never showed up,
we left, Carol on deck at the tiller, I below shifting gears manually at the engine itself. Not entirely satisfactory for singlehanding, but for three weeks I wouldn’t be a singlehander, and we
only really needed the engine to get out of the narrow dredged
access channel from the tiny basin.
The best return was my most recent one here, where I left The
Hawke of Tuonela on her mooring just off Opua, in New
Zealand’s Bay of Islands.
I found only a bucketful of water in the bilge. I left the bilge
pump and float switch on automatic as I always do, and this
time it seems to have worked. In the past, the pump has been
known to develop an airlock and continuously run until it
burns itself out or wears down the batteries. This time, the solar
panels kept the batteries fully charged.
Almost no mold. Only a few spiders. And one gecko that I inadvertently killed when I stepped on it in the dark.
I bent on the sails, including the mainsail that had been at the
sailmaker for minor repairs; cleaned; cleared a blocked seacock
from the galley drain; got the head working; and reduced the inevitable odor from water standing in the discharge hose.
This time, jet lag was even minimal, and soon it was simply a
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
WEB B CHI LES
He’d spent much of his life living aboard, but of all the things he’d done
in those years, returning to the boat from someplace else was something
entirely new BY WEBB CHILES
great, great pleasure to be back on the
boat, to feel her moving around the mooring, hear ripples against the hull, smell the
damp earth and foliage at dawn, feel the
breeze on my skin, and be more or less
continuously outside. And to use my body
again. Working out inside the Charlestown, Massachusetts, condo is just not the
same as living aboard, where I row ashore,
walk, carry, lift, pull, push. It takes a little
while to get back into shape, although I
didn’t feel that I was out of it. Soon I was
able to e-mail the bad news back to February-trapped Boston: I had a tan.
An Hour Badly Spent
There are ideas so bad that it’s difficult
to understand how they ever could’ve
seemed good. One such idea was painting
the cabin sole with nonskid paint. I did
this last November, shortly before leaving
to fly back to Boston.
I disliked the paint from the moment I
started to apply it, and I continued only
in the unlikely prospect that it would
look better when the entire surface was
covered. It didn’t, and at least I had the
good sense to throw the unused portion
of the can away and not apply a second
coat. The paint was supposed to be beige,
but it came out more of a cream color. It
was light where the interior should be
dark, and it drew the eye to every mark
and speck of dirt. This did make it easier
to see spiders.
While in Boston, I thought about what
I’d do to the cabin sole when I returned. I
considered covering it with Treadmaster
or an artificial teak decking called Flexiteek or replacing the sole with new teakand-holly-veneer plywood. I even told
myself that maybe it wasn’t as bad as I recalled. But the moment I stepped below, I
knew that it was.
Perhaps it was my recent experience
with removing wallpaper that suggested
to me that I should first simply try to remove the offensive paint. I paid the
equivalent of $15 for a liter of paint remover, and I already had putty knives and
sandpaper. And time.
What took one hour to do took three
days to undo. But, unexpectedly, it finally
was satisfactorily undone, and I began to
apply the first of many coats of Deks Olje.
This is an effective but not very efficient method of refinishing a cabin sole. I
don’t recommend it.
Somewhere Else
I was in Paradise, but I liked the next
place better. This paradise was nominal,
not subjective: Paradise Bay, at Urupukapuka Island, the biggest island in the Bay
of Islands, though still only a mile and a
half long and generally less than a half
mile wide.
The bay—to my mind, really a cove—is
a pleasant-enough place halfway up the
west side of the island and well protected
except for exposure to a long fetch from
the southwest. In the Bay of Islands, if the
wrong wind blows into your anchorage,
you need to move only a short distance to
another equally pretty spot to find protection. But it wasn’t so outstanding that I
could see why anyone ever thought it paradise. Ashore was a small sand beach and
bush impenetrable without an ax or bulldozer. The bush has been partially cleared
from the shore at another cove just north
of Paradise, which enables one to walk
around a bit there. Still, someone once
liked this particular cove enough to name
it Paradise.
A few months earlier, Carol and I had
26
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
been in a different version of Paradise.
From the time of the voyages of Wallis
and Bougainville and Cook, Tahiti and
the other Society Islands have been Europe’s vision of earthly paradise. Despite
the French bureaucracy and the commercialization, congestion, and regulations of
Papeete, still the physical beauty remains,
and after a four-hour sail from Papeete,
we were anchored at one of my favorite
anchorages in the world, one just inside
the reef on the east side of the pass into
the Baie d’Opunohu, at Moorea. We were
in 17 feet of warm water so clear you
could see the bottom in moonlight. Snorkeling on the reef was a short swim away.
It was peaceful, tranquil, and isolated: A
few houses stood nearby, and half a mile
away, a relatively discreet hotel was visible
on the shore. Except for one holiday
weekend when a fleet of local boats came
over from Tahiti, only three to five other
boats lay at anchor. I’ve visited that anchorage many times during my six voyages to Tahiti over the past 30 years, and it
remains one of my images of paradise.
But one of the interesting things about
paradise is that it’s generally not where
you are.
On Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas Islands, about which Melville wrote his
most commercially successful novel,
Typee, I was once invited to a home where
the teenage son had the walls of his room,
which had a view out over the lagoon,
covered with Air France posters of skiing
in the Alps. He was looking forward to his
compulsory military service in the hope
that he’d serve in Europe and see snow
and ice.
I left New Zealand’s Paradise Cove after
two nights and explored some other
nearby anchorages, finally settling on
what’s called the “lagoon” at Roberton Island. Once again, I think the early European settlers used words a bit loosely because it isn’t a tropical lagoon but, rather,
a very nice cove on the south side of a low
saddle connecting two hills.
One end of the island is privately
owned, but most of the rest is a bird sanctuary, and a marked trail leads to a lookout over the entire area.
I’ve seen photographs of that anchorage filled with 50 boats over New
Zealand’s summer holiday, which runs
from just before Christmas to the end of
January. While I was there, several daytrip
boats anchored for lunch and then ferried passengers ashore to climb to the
lookout, but by late afternoon, I had the
place to myself.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
As night fell, I was sitting on deck listening to music with my evening drink,
watching lights come on in the few scattered houses on the mainland of the
North Island a mile away. I really did like
this place more than Paradise.
One Place to Which to Return
I met Eric and Susan Hiscock once.
We were clearing into Neifu, Tonga, at
the same time: They were coming in
from the east on their 46-foot ketch,
Wanderer IV; I was coming in from the
north in my 18-foot open boat, the
yawl-rigged Chidiock Tichborne.
They powered Wanderer IV to the outside of the wharf at Neifu as I rowed
Chidiock Tichborne to the shallow inside
of the wharf. They assumed I’d been out
for a daysail and couldn’t understand why
I was flying the Q flag. Susan was friendly
enough, but Eric seemed vaguely disturbed that I was sailing oceans in an
open boat, as though I were doing some-
27
thing improper, particularly since I was
making passages just about as fast as the
Hiscocks were.
My clearance into Neifu went quickly.
Two big Tongan officials came down
the wharf. Together they displaced as
much as Chidiock. They stood for a moment looking somewhat apprehensively
at the little boat, trying to decide whether
to risk stepping down. Then one of them
said, “You don’t have any—. No, of
course, you don’t. Welcome to Tonga.”
And they turned and climbed aboard
Wanderer IV.
I didn’t agree with many of the Hiscocks’ ideas about boats, which I thought
even in the 1970s were out of date. For
example, the advantages of a spade rudder have always seemed obvious to me.
But curiously enough, after a lot of sailing—the Hiscocks’ three circumnavigations, and my four—we ended up in the
same place: Opua, New Zealand. When
Eric died, Wanderer V was moored al-
most exactly where I now moor The
Hawke of Tuonela, and Opua had been
the Hiscocks’ base for several years. I
don’t know that I’ve finally stopped sailing around the world. But this is my second successive cyclone season in Opua,
and there’ll be more.
There are places I like as much as New
Zealand—parts of Australia and South
Africa and Brazil—but none more, and
New Zealand has the advantage of that
quality beloved of architects and real-estate developers: location, location, location. Sail three weeks east and you’re in
Tahiti; sail a week or two northeast to
west and you’re in the Cook Islands,
Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, or Australia.
In New Zealand, the Bay of Islands, the
northernmost port of entry, has the best
climate: It’s nominally subtropical, but I
see many more pines than palms. There
are good facilities, too, and an almost inexhaustible supply of fine anchorages.
It’s also a spot of great beauty and tranquility. With points of land overlapping,
the southern end of the bay, where I am,
has the appearance of a lake. A circle of
hills of various shades of green surrounds
the mooring, from which I look west to
the marina and to the few buildings of
Opua; to the east, I see a small gumdrop
island with an unruly pine-tree toupee, a
shallow inlet, hills, and a distant, often
misty, mountain.
Notable by their absence are powerboat
wakes: Sailboats here far outnumber
powerboats, and everyone usually conforms to a posted five-knot limit. Absent,
too, is traffic noise: There are no through
roads along the shore, and in most places
no roads at all. And airplanes: The nearest
airport is 20 miles away in Keri-Keri, and
it’s rare for even a small private plane to
fly overhead.
I like the place so much that I bought
my mooring, so I’m now the proud owner
of two tons of concrete and various bits
of chain and rope. I still haven’t paid the
duty to import The Hawke of Tuonela, so
I have to sail out of the country each
year—to Tahiti last year, to Tonga and Fiji
this, a real burden. And eventually I
might sail on. Or I might not. I don’t have
much confidence in my place in a celestial
paradise, so perhaps I should stick close
to this one.
Webb Chiles is again back on his mooring in
Opua, having sailed this year to Tonga and Fiji
and back. His most recent book, Return to the
Boat, is published by Sheridan House.
28
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
PASSAGE
NOTES
Sharks by the Bowl Full
W
HEN MOST SAILORS DREAM OF CRUISING
the South Pacific, they picture themselves surrounded by palm-topped
islets, gentle breezes, and azure water.
For yet another subset, the dream isn’t
fulfilled until they jump in the water
with dive gear. When they’re surrounded by coral reefs, tropical
fish, and hundreds of schooling sharks, they’ve reached nirvana.
Or, rather, Fakarava.
Fakarava is the second largest atoll in the
Tuamotus. Part of
French Polynesia, the
Tuamotu Archipelago
is scattered in a band
nearly 400 miles wide
that stretches northwest to southeast directly across the path
of all vessels heading
from the Americas to
Tahiti, in the Society
Don Wilson, the
author’s husband,
fills tanks with air
from the compressor
aboard Tackless II,
their CS 444.
30
Islands. Throughout navigational For Corbie and Rick von
history, the Tuamotus were com- Stein (above) of Emermonly known as the Dangerous ald, a Morro Bay PassArchipelago, because unlike the port 47, diving is a major
mountainous Marquesas chain, 76 of objective. They say the
dive at Fakarava’s south
the 78 Tuamotu islands are actually
pass is one of the best
coral atolls rising only a few feet they’ve ever done.
above sea level—they’re visible at a
distance only should a waving coconut palm catch the mariner’s
eye. An atoll is a ring of coral that’s built up over geologic ages
around a volcanic island that’s since sunk back into the sea. Inside
are protected lagoon waters surrounded by small islets, called
motus, that dot the top of the reef ring, on top of which grow the
waving palms. In the days before radar, GPS, and accurate digital
charts (in other words, not very long ago!), many prudent cruisers en route from the Marquesas to the Society Islands steered
north, skipping the Tuamotus entirely.
But thanks to electronics, and particularly to vector charts by
C-MAP, these incredible islands need no longer be missed. But
which ones to visit? Realistically, the choice must be narrowed to
the atolls of the western Tuamotus. Those of the southeastern section, where France conducted its nuclear-weapon testing until
1996, are still off limits without special permits. The choice is further reduced to those atolls that have one or more passes into
their lagoons that sailboats can safely enter. Since you simply can’t
do it all, the logical approach is to pick a point of entry and visit
two or three atolls in that general area.
The atolls of Manihi and Ahe, followed by Rangiroa, the largest
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
GWEN HAM LI N
Cruisers who drift dive at Fakarava’s remote south pass are in for a sensation that’s as
close as it comes to free flight, so long as they don’t get munched BY GWEN HAMLIN
Marquesas Islands
10˚ S
Tua
mo
P A C I F I C
tu
Ar
Manihi
ch
Rangiroa
ip
el
ag
O C E A N
Nautical Miles
o
0
So
cie
Fakarava
ty
150
300
Tahiti
Isla
nds
French Polynesia
20˚ S
Îles Gambier
140˚ W
150˚ W
FAKARAVA
Besides the motherlode of sea life, a
visit to Fakarava’s south pass, called
Tumakohua on charts, is worthwhile for
important reasons: It’s a convenient
stop on the bluewater route from the
Marquesas to the Society Islands, and
the anchorage, while accessible, is
devoid of crowds.
Anchorage
16º 31' S
Tetamanu
145º 27' W
Start of dive
Tumakohua Pass
Nautical Miles
0
32
130˚ W
.25
.5
atoll in the world, are along the most direct route between the Marquesas and the
Societies. Manihi and Rangiroa are both
touted as great diving destinations, but
they’ve become popular and crowded,
particularly Rangiroa, which has daily
flights from Tahiti, several first-class hotels, over a dozen family pensions, and
even cruise-ship visits. This would satisfy
plenty of people’s fantasies, but hardened
divers are looking for something a little
wilder and more remote.
They’ll find it on Fakarava, which lies
on the southwestern edge of the archipelago. The Tumakohua Pass, situated on
the island’s southern coast, is 30 miles
long—the answer to the dive-cruiser’s
dream. It’s the final destination of a navigable area between Aratika and Kauehi
that gives easy access to Apataki and
Toau, smaller, less-visited atolls that are
all accessible and worth a visit.
“Wait till you get here, Gwen,” radioed
Rick and Corbie von Stein of Emerald, a
Morro Bay Passport 47. “The visibility is
incredible, the reef is gorgeous, and there
are literally hundreds of sharks.”
Hundreds of sharks? For Rick, a retired
dentist, and his wife, Corbie, scuba diving
is a major objective. Before they were fulltime cruisers, their diving was packed
into annual three-week vacations to such
destinations as Palau, Chuuk (Truk) Lagoon, Papua New Guinea, and the Coral
Sea as well as to a host of remote locations in Micronesia. The von Steins spent
almost two weeks diving the south pass
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
SHAN NON CAI N
S O U T H
COU RTESY OF BE N N EWTON (LE FT), COU RTESY OF CU¨ NEYT G U¨ LE RAY
What Ben Newton (above) of Waking
Dream loves most about the Fakarava
dive is the feeling of flying in heavy
current while the sharks seem to stay
motionless; Marc and Lisa Labonté of
Nahanni buddy dive with Cüneyt Güleray of Little Aries (right), a smart move
in the remote areas of the South Pacific
Ocean, where there’s no access to
emergency medical care.
with the crews of five other sailboats.
They say Fakarava’s south pass is one of
the best dives they’ve ever made.
The atoll’s southern rim is broken up
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
into a string of small windswept islets.
Fakarava’s south pass enters the atoll just
west of the motu of Tetamanu, where the
remains of a village stand around a redroofed church. A few families live here,
making a living from fishing. We anchored Tackless II, our CS 444, off of the
bungalows of a laid-back pension housing just a single guest.
“In 10 days, we made a dozen dives in
the pass alone,” says Rick, spreading out a
hand-drawn map of the dive site. The
pass, about 600 feet wide at its outer end,
splits into a Y around Tohea Reef on its
inner end. The dive starts on the outside
over the edge of the drop-off, where
deep-water species like yellowfin and
dogtooth tuna and silvertip sharks patrol.
Then it follows “the highway,” a stripe of
sand clearly visible from the surface, between banks of hard corals busy with fish.
The highway leads to a series of ridges,
caves, and bowls in the reef. Something
about the bowls attracts dense concentrations of reef and black-tip sharks, which
fill them to overflowing.
As the dive nears the docks of the Pension Tetamanu, the reef turns into a vir-
33
34
timate scuba dive. The tidal currents contain highly oxygenated water that keeps
the coral reefs healthy and creates a foodrich environment that attracts a wide
range of sea life, including such deepwater pelagics as tunas, manta rays, and, of
course, sharks. Stronger currents make for
more fish and sharks. Divers can use the
incoming current to hitch a free ride over
much more terrain than they could ever
manage to cover under their own fin
power; divers in the south pass travel near-
Safe-Diving Realities
There are many good pass dives to be
made by diving cruisers sailing the South
Pacific, but beyond the usual depth and
bottom-time considerations of all dives,
careful planning and understanding of the
terrain and the local tidal currents are essential, especially when cruisers are diving
on their own, without the benefit of local
professionals. In remote locations, cruisers
should have their own equipment (and at
least an advanced-diver certification), and
at least one boat should have a dive compressor aboard. Every group of divers
going down, even a single buddy team,
should have someone responsible on
watch in a tender on the surface.
Pass dives should be done on the incoming tide only so divers who get separated aren’t at risk of being sucked out to
sea. All divers should carry a signaling
device—whistle, mirror, an inflatable
sausage, or all three—to draw attention
to themselves should they surface away
from the planned exit point or in hardto-be-seen-in surface conditions that can
occur with a tide or wind change. Divers
must study the underwater terrain of the
pass to anticipate the possibility of up
currents and downdrafts, which can result in barotraumas (ear or lung injuries
related to abrupt pressure changes).
There’s no help in emergencies beyond
the help you can provide. Any cruisers
diving on their own should carry oxygen
and know how to administer it. Oxygen is
the single most effective first aid for diving injuries or decompression problems.
Finally, all cruising divers should be cardcarrying members of Divers Alert Network (www.diversalertnetwork.org),
whose services include coverage for emergency airlift and recompression and the
coordination to get help to even the most
obscure reaches of the world.
G.H.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
GWEN HAM LI N
tual aquarium, its banks of pristine hard
corals populated by clouds of colorful
tropical fish. Then the route whips to the
right in what Rick calls “the fast lane,”
where the narrowing channel carries
divers at several knots over a shallow
coral landscape policed by the smaller but
nosier white-tip sharks. “Several times,”
says Corbie, “we were carried right to the
stem of the anchored boats with the little
guys following right to the swim ladder.”
Pass diving is many divers’ idea of the ul-
COU RTESY OF G R EG WALSH
After diving with the sharks, the crews
of Nahanni and Whistler jockey for
position in a friendly dinghy race back
to their boats.
ly two miles in about 40 minutes.
But all those sharks? Is this really fun? “I
was a little nervous before getting in,” admits Lisa Newton of Waking Dream, a
Cooper 416. “But once you get in the
water, you simply forget to be nervous.”
Says Ben, her husband: “What I really
love about this dive is the sense of flying
in the heavy current while the sharks
seem to remain almost motionless.
They’ll be 360 degrees around us, sometimes above us, sometimes below us.
Most of the time they seem completely
uninterested in us as we fly through, even
when we get close.”
Ben didn’t hesitate to get into the thick
of things with his tiny Canon Powershot
digital camera in its own compact housing, shooting stills and short video clips.
However, once in a while, he says he gets
“impressions of aggression.”
I ask him how he can tell.
“Body language,” he says.
“And how did you respond?”
“Body language!”
Not everybody is as sanguine about the
idea of diving with sharks. Seda and
Cüneyt Güleray of Little Aries, a Moody
40 out of Istanbul, Turkey, got certified
right after their honeymoon in the Maldives. When they set sail, they were nervous enough about the idea of swimming
with sharks to bring along a bang stick, a
device that repels sharks that get too close
by setting off a magnum blank at close
range. On their first couple of shark dives,
they brought along the bang stick only to
discover when they tested it that their cartridges had flooded, and it didn’t work.
That didn’t stop them from diving the
south pass five times. “We came here
specifically to see the sharks,” says Cüneyt,
who carries professional video equipment
to make documentary clips about their
circumnavigation for Turkish television.
Traveling with the Gülerays are Lisa and
Marc Labonté, of Ottawa, Canada, on Nahanni, their Reliance 44. During their stay,
these two young couples rafted up to each
other on the pension’s lone mooring, right
in the pass. Along with Chris and K.T. of
Whistler, an English sloop, they dived cooperatively, sharing equipment and surface-watch duties among the three crews
and contributing gas to power Little Aries’
dive compressor.
“We aren’t maxi divers,” Marc says, explaining that on a boat packed with all
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
kinds of watersports equipment, they
only carry one set of dive equipment.
“Diving is just one of the things we love
to do.” What makes this location really
great to them, Lisa says, is that they can
pursue all their favorite activities.
Even cruisers who don’t dive enjoy the
south-pass experience. Ralph and Donna
35
McMorris of Vancouver, aboard Ocean
Girl, a Beneteau Oceanis 350, snorkeled
the pass twice. “I’d heard so much about
it from divers that I was sure I’d be disappointed to be stuck on the surface,” Ralph
says. “But I was totally impressed with the
amount of fish we could see. We could see
the sharks and the divers on the bottom,
80 feet down, but it seemed like most of
the fish were in the top 30 feet.”
During our stay in Fakarava, we dove
with and shared surface-watch duties
with Greg Walsh and Ruth Page of Bravo
Charlie III, a Hallberg-Rassy 53. Retired
from jobs in the computer software and
hardware industries, Greg and Ruth are
so addicted to Fakarava’s south-pass dive
that three times they’ve sailed back and
forth the 2,400 miles between Hawaii and
the Tuamotus. During those visits, they’ve
dived the pass at least 30 times.
In the generous manner of most cruisers, they and their crew, Tom Abend, frequently invite Fakarava’s new arrivals
aboard Bravo Charlie III, where they share
their local knowledge of the atoll. Amateur
videographers, they also have a great collection of their self-made videos that we
enjoyed watching on the flat-screen TV.
A story about sharks wouldn’t be complete without a little shark story. After diving the south pass 10 times, Rick von Stein,
along with Dave Howell and Judy Hayden
of Freebird, a catamaran, went with fellow
divers to a spot about a mile and a half east
of the pass, along the outer drop of the
atoll, in hopes of finding a new dive site.
“I was sitting on the back corner of
Freebird’s inflatable,” Rick says, “and I’d
just dipped one of my fins into the water
before slipping in for a quick re-con,
when—POW!—the pontoon exploded
under me, knocking me on my butt backward into the dinghy. Dave was mortified,
blaming the rupture on chafe, but after I
transferred myself and gear to the other
dinghy, the other guys told me they were
sure they saw something big and black hit
the back of the dinghy from underneath
just before it popped! Sure enough, when
Dave got his dinghy on deck, we helped
him flip it over to check the rupture, and
there was the nicely defined imprint of an
upper and lower jaw slashed into the Hypalon, complete with tooth scallops.”
Sharks are known to be attracted to
spinning propellers, and there are stories
of sharks stopping outboard motors dead.
But what amazes me about this tale isn’t
that a shark would bite a propeller but
that Rick and his diehard dive buddies got
back in the water and made the dive.
Gwen Hamlin, a PADI dive instructor with 15
years of experience, ran dive-and-sail charters
on her boat Whisper in the Virgin Islands before she and her husband, Don Wilson, left to
go cruising five years ago on Tackless II.
36
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF DAVE HOWE LL
Dave Howell of Freebird displays proof
of a close and hungry encounter of the
shark kind.
For some of us, the old axiom of
economics still holds true: If you
don’t have much money, then
you can’t spend it like people
who do. For 5 grand, says
the author, you can still
set out to see the world
BY CAP’N FATTY GOODLANDER
PHOTOS BY BOBBY GRIESER
C
ONGRATULATIONS: YOU HAVE A WELL-
other guys doesn’t mean you can’t have more fun than they
found craft that you’ve outfitted for
do—and be safer and more seamanlike as you go. Here are
offshore sailing. You’re ready to sail
some simple suggestions on how to circumnavigate inexpen-
around the world. But, alas, you
sively with the vessel you have now.
have one small problem: You don’t
The first thing you have to realize is that if you don’t have
have much money—only $5,000.
much money, you can’t spend it like people who do. That
Would it be foolish to set off with
seems self-evident in principle; in practice, it’s rather hard to
such a piddling balance in the account?
grasp. The problem is that you’ll find yourself in constant con-
No. Foolish would be not to set off. You’ve got the boat;
tact with retired cruisers who spend $50,000 a year while cir-
you’ve worked hard outfitting it; you’re ready to quit your job.
cumnavigating—and you have to steel yourself not to suc-
Go for it! Just because you don’t have as much money as the
cumb to the “I deserve it, too” temptation.
38
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
The
Sea Gypsy’s
Guide to the
Oceans
Think of it as a challenge: Sailing around the world on
peanuts takes far more effort, determination, and intelligence
than doing so while well funded. Are you up to the task? Of
course you are—because you’re willing to work longer, harder, and smarter to accomplish your goals.
One thing you don’t want, if you’re on a limited budget offshore, is old shoreside bills. My wife, Carolyn, and I have only
one annual bill: That’s the $250 for SailMail (our shipboard SSB
Cap’n Fatty and Carolyn
Goodlander enjoy their last
few days in the Caribbean
before setting off again.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
e-mail provider), which we need so I can market my writing.
We don’t have a house or a storage shed or a car back
“home” in the States—nor do we bet against ourselves by
39
40
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
buying insurance. For us, this
makes sense. Freedom is our
drug, and we mainline it—we
don’t need or want most of
what Middle America considers “the necessities of life.”
That’s why we think of ourselves as sea gypsies—not as yachtsmen or cruisers or circumnavigators.
OK, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. To voyage cheaply, you
need a modest boat without a lot of toys. That’s logical. But you
also need to sail a slightly different route and schedule from those
of many other voyagers. For instance, almost all circumnavigators want to spend three months in French Polynesia. It is far, far
more economical to spend 11 of those weeks in the pristine Marquesas and Tuamotus and only one week in metropolitan and ultraexpensive Papeete than it would be to do the opposite.
If you don’t have much money, then you have to visit inexpensive countries more often and longer, spend less time in
cities, almost never go to marinas, become knowledgeable about
clearance and visa fees, limit your shoreside activities to those
that are free, and walk and take buses.
How do you learn about the actual costs of one destination
versus another? The logical ways: by reading the guidebooks,
doing Internet research, and, most important, attending to the
word of mouth of fellow cruisers. Chances are, many of the people you meet while circumnavigating know a hell of a lot more
about where you are and where you’re going than you do.
They’ve been there longer. Use their expertise to cruise both
smarter and cheaper.
Not everyone sails east to west. A few lovable fools always go
the other way; they’re also invaluable sources of accurate and
current knowledge. Example: While circumnavigating from
Wild Card, Fatty and
Carolyn’s Hughes 38, has
taken them once around the
world and is now halfway
across the Pacific on a
second circumnavigation.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
2000 to 2004 aboard our extremely modest Hughes 38, Wild
Card, Carolyn and I weren’t flabbergasted by the astronomical
prices in Tahiti. We expected them. We spent almost no money
there because we knew that a day ashore in Papeete would cost
the equivalent of a month ashore in Southeast Asia.
We also knew that while our circumnavigation would take approximately four years, it would be up to us how much of that
time we spent in the Papeetes, the New Caledonias, and the Singapores of the world. Instead, we concentrated on the less-visited, “storeless” islands of Oceania, Indonesia, Southeast Asia,
India, Chagos, Madagascar, and Africa—places where our dollars went a delightfully long way. We dipped down to New
Zealand and Oz only when the U.S. dollar became extremely
strong, and we left when it corrected itself six months later. As it
worked out, those were glorious months of very cheap First
World living!
Buy Low, Eat High
The trick, of course, is to buy stuff where it’s dirt cheap—and
then consume it in expensive places. We usually carry between
50 and 100 pounds of Thai jasmine rice and a similar amount of
dry beans. Basically, these two staple items mean we’ll never
starve, even if we’re marooned on a deserted island or adrift at
sea for many months.
We’re also avid carnivores, so we can our own meat in halfpint and pint glass jars. This is fun, inexpensive, and delicious.
We usually carry 100 jars of pork and beef, cooked in a wide variety of ways. In addition, we occasionally can fish, heart-ofpalm, beans, and veggies. Many of our Australian and South
African cruising friends air dry their fruits and veggies as well as
their fish and meat. We’re currently experimenting in this area,
with widely mixed results. (Fish: yeck!)
Paper products are a problem. They’re expensive, easily dam41
aged by dampness, and very bulky. Sometimes we precut our officials to be, well, humorless.
paper towels and use washable rags when possible. But we like
On the topic of fuel and lube oil, you can save money by runpaper towels and soft toilet paper, so we consider them one of ning your engine less often; purchasing petroleum products in
our extravagances. We bag every roll individually in plastic. That cheap places like Venezuela, India, and the Mideast; buying your
way, if we spring a slight deck leak, we don’t lose the whole lot.
fuel at duty-free prices after you’ve cleared out; jugging your fuel
We eat well while watching our pennies; wherever we go, we rather than buying from a marina; and buying your lube oil at
eat locally grown products. If sailing offshore is an adventure, auto-part stores rather than at marine chandleries.
so, too, are the markets of Southeast Asia. Just leave your WestI buy my fuel filters by the carton, wholesale, before I leave the
ern food prejudices behind: Those roasted sewer-pipe bugs in States, then store each one in an individual resealable bag. I no
Thailand are tastier than you might think.
longer carry an extensive inventory of spare parts for my engine.
Many of our cruising friends “sail the farm” and “live off the I used to carry a spare starter motor, alternator, voltage regulaland” to a far greater extent than we do. But you have to be real- tor, injector, and a complete set of gaskets. Now, I air-freight in
ly into it; it takes a lot of time to be a hunter/gatherer. It’s possi- what I need when I need it—which is ultimately far less expenble, and a growing number of sea gypsies find it highly fulfilling sive. The salt air gets to stuff whether you use it or not, and the
to be as independent from land and civilization as possible. But boat’s happier without the extra weight.
it is a lot of work.
I’ve never understood the “fancy yacht” syndrome. I mean,
Still, it’s certainly possible while on passage to catch enough what kind of a sicko wants to spend millions of dollars on a prisfish to dramatically stretch your ship’s
tine gold-plater—and then sail it to
stores and vastly improve your protein
Hispaniola and anchor it off Cap-HaïIt shouldn’t cost too much to
diet—and have a lot of fun doing it
tien? It just doesn’t make sense to me.
maintain your boat if you’re
along the way.
I don’t believe in spending a lot of
money to cosmetically maintain my
careful and do your own work.
Maintaining the Craft
vessel. I’d rather spend it on what I call
A frugal sea gypsy pays to haul his
“strength and safety” issues. Or on acCrossing the Pacific, I didn’t try
or her vessel only if there’s major
tually cruising. But not on varnish or
to go fast but to make the paswork to be done. Otherwise, the
topside wax or brass polish. The result
gypsy merely scrapes the bottom,
is, of course, that my boat looks like
sage as comfortably as possible
hoists the anchors, and sails to somecrap. But it does so while averaging
place warm with big tides. Once
about 10,000 ocean miles a year. It’s
while loading up the rig as little
there, the sailor lays the boat against
your choice. I’ve made mine.
as possible. Thus we broke
the wall to paint the bottom and reOf course, all boats require some
place the zincs. It’s absolutely free. If,
money
to maintain. But not too
nothing during that 8,000-mile
while out on the tide, the discovery is
much, if you’re careful and do your
stretch of trade-wind sailing
made that the prop shaft is bent or
own work. Sails and running rigging
the rudder is starting to delaminate,
last many years if you guard against
the gypsy removes the offending item, leisurely fixes it ashore, UV damage and chafe—or only a few weeks, if you don’t. A
then remounts it on a later tide. No surcharge.
spool of polyester line is laughably cheap from its manufacturWhat’s the exact procedure for laying against the wall? Simple: er in Durban, South Africa. When I sailed across the Pacific, my
Sail your boat to a place where it’s a regular practice, then ask the goal wasn’t to go fast but to make the passage as comfortably as
guy on the boat next to you.
possible while loading up the rig as little as possible. Thus we
Of course, careening—heeling your boat down with the aid of broke nothing during that 8,000-mile stretch of trade-wind
lines—is also still possible. If the rum-soaked pirates of yore regu- sailing, neither gear nor records. Still, we averaged 128 miles a
larly did it, then surely you can figure it out. It’s almost (but not day. Not fast, but not slow either.
quite) impossible to paint your entire hull in this manner. HowevGood antifouling paint is cheap in Asia. There are large tides in
er, you have all the time in the world, unlike when using the tide, many parts of the world, and as I’ve mentioned, many yacht clubs
and it’s amazing how much of one side you can cover at a time.
and marinas will often allow you to go against the wall for free.
Pulling the mast? I never hire a crane for this. I just wait until
We only hauled out once during our circumnavigation—
two of my “big-boat” friends, aboard craft of 50 feet or more, are when we had to replace our cutless bearing and patch some
rafted together in a calm anchorage. Then I wiggle Wild Card in fiberglass. This occurred after I, ahem, smashed into the Great
between. I attach their spinnaker halyards to my mast just below Barrier Reef. (Yeah, I knew it was there. Stop laughing, OK?)
the spreaders, then ask them both to winch at the same time.
Thus, with perfect control and not a quiver or jerk, I pull my What to Bring, What to Leave Behind
Don’t bring dogs or cats if you expect to stop in New Zealand,
stick as if it were a Fabergé egg! Again, no charge.
Oz, or any Muslim country. Some countries or small islands
Ditto for restepping.
I hate working on the masthead from a bosun’s chair, espe- have a foolproof method of preventing the spread of rabies:
cially if I’m mounting a new tricolor, antenna, or wind-instru- They immediately shoot any dog that shows up. Our friend
ment array. Instead, if I’m in or near a city, I motor over to a city Pauline aboard Summer Breeze had to hastily flee the Maldives
bridge of approximately the correct height, then maneuver with before they plugged Charlie, her beloved fish-catching poodle.
SSB radio: You don’t have to have one of these—just a VHF
dock lines until my masthead lies within easy reach of the railing. I’ve done this a dozen times in Chicago without a prob- will do. But we were lucky, and the wonderful people of St. John,
lem—although, I must admit, I don’t stay around too long af- U.S.V.I., collectively purchased an ICOM M710 SSB for us just
terward to discuss the process with city officials. I find such before we set off on our first circumnavigation; we’ve since got
42
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
our ham licenses to maximize
its benefit. An SSB radio can
save you a lot of money, time,
and trouble. Most important,
you can learn from the mistakes of cruisers ahead. Just a
few of the benefits: You can avoid paying bribes to corrupt officials, avoid ports with expensive user fees, and learn which boat
boy is a thief or a rip-off.
Visas and harbor fees: Most countries welcome cruising
boats and charge them only modest fees. But not all. At one
point, Seychelles wanted $100 a day from visiting boats—very
few of which showed up once the word spread. The country
quickly changed its policy when they realized that it was far better to collect a couple of dollars a day from a lot of boats versus
$100 a day from no boats.
Australia, Indonesia, and India all require that visa fees be paid
before arrival—often not an easy or inexpensive thing to arrange.
Charts and guides: The bad news is that traditional charts are
horribly expensive; the good news is you probably don’t need to
buy many. Before I left the United States, I purchased $200
worth of privately printed charts and a couple of Pacific guidebooks. After that, I only purchased two additional charts in New
Zealand. Some we copied by hand or by machine; others were
given to us or we traded for them.
In a pinch, we borrow a chart and laboriously hand copy it in
pencil. Sure, it takes lots of time, and I don’t necessarily recommend this. I’m merely telling you what we do.
If we don’t want to take the time to hand draw a whole new
The world inside their 38footer may not be large, but
it evokes the memories and
impressions of a mighty big
world indeed.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER
2005
chart, we just tick off (and numerically record) a series of carefully considered GPS waypoints. After all, almost anything is
better than nothing. Rationalization: There’s about 3,000
miles of empty water between the Galápagos and Fatu Hiva.
Do you really need an expensive chart when a sheet of graph
paper will do nearly as well? Needless to say, if you have to
change course because of a dismasting or health emergency, a
piece of graph paper with the wrong GPS points ain’t gonna
help much!
As an absolutely last resort, I take a series of digital pictures of
the chart with my eight-meg camera, provided the chart isn’t
copyrighted.
Batteries: I believe in carrying good batteries—and maintaining them well. Stateside batteries aren’t cheap, but they’re well
made. Asian batteries are very cheap but have a shorter life span
and lower at-rest voltage.
Solar cells can be purchased very cheaply in Malaysia; the very
nice BP panels are manufactured in Kuala Lumpur.
Travel inland: Carolyn and I would like to do more inland
travel as we cruise, but it’s relatively expensive. Often we “help
somebody out” by traveling long distances to get his or her boat
or car or truck back home—getting an all-expenses-paid shore
trip in exchange for our time. It works for everyone.
The bottom line to all of this is that with a little ingenuity and
a lot of hard work, you can sail around the world for far less than
it costs to live and work in the good ol’ U.S.A.
Cap’n Fatty is once again putting his ideas to practice and embarking on his second passage across the Pacific.
43
Rivers
that reach back
into time
STORY BY JANE GIBB; PHOTOS BY JOHN GIBB
Trading Caribbean blue for water in shades of
chocolate brings unexpected rewards
L
IKE GOD IN MICHELANGELO’S “CREATION OF
Adam,” Venezuela’s Península de Paria, in
the north of the country, points a long
finger toward Trinidad, which in turn extends a shorter finger in greeting, plus a
toe in the south. In between lies the Gulf
of Paria, a rectangular body of water that sees few cruising boats. As my husband, John, and I had outstayed our
visas in Trinidad and Tobago, the idea struck us to take
a short trip westward across the gulf to Güiria,
Venezuela, to get a fresh stamp in our passports and to
spend a little time exploring the area.
River sailing isn’t usually on the average cruiser’s
agenda, but after listening to other voyagers’ tales of derring-do up the Río Orinoco, we considered trying it
ourselves. Although the idea of bucking fast currents for
60˚ W
70˚ W
80˚ W
FLORIDA
NO
RT
H
AT
LA
West Indies
20˚ N
N
T
IC
O
C
E
A
several hundred miles quickly tempered our ambitions,
the Gulf of Paria provided other choices to suit our
mood. We chose to explore the smaller Río San Juan and
Río Grande, both to the north of the Orinoco, and while
they may not be quite up to that river’s proportions,
they have plenty to offer those who’d like to play pioneer
at a gentler level. We found quite enough excitement for
our tastes.
As Honey Jar, our Bill Dixon-designed 40-foot steel
cutter, pushed herself into many of the little bays along
the western rim of the gulf on our way to our riverine
cruise, we found the change to steaming jungle and rain
forest, with an almost total absence of modern man’s
footprint, most refreshing.
The Río Grande is the smaller of the two rivers and
can be covered in a day, taking the flood going up and
the ebb to come down. The estuary is fully five miles
wide but carries little depth—10 feet or less—so Honey
Jar had to feel her way over the opaque shallows to find
the main channel. The delta stretched to the horizon on
all sides, with low mangroves just visible in the distance;
the Earth’s curvature was astonishingly clear, much to
the disapproval of the Flat Earther present.
Gradually the tall-treed banks closed to a mile, and we
spotted the occasional palm-thatched hut built on stilts
over the muddy water. Below each one a pirogue, outfit-
N
Nautical Miles
0
10˚ N
150
C
300
Caracas
Río Orinoco
VENEZUELA
TRINIDAD
AND
TOBAGO
A
R
A N
B E
B
I
S E A
TRINIDAD
AND
TOBAGO
Península de Paria
Río Grande
Port of Spain
Güiria
Gulf of Paria
Trinidad
Caripito
10º N
Río San
Juan
Nautical Miles
VENEZUELA
0
44
Tobago
45
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
90
DECEMBER 2005
MAPS BY SHAN NON CAI N
63º W
CARIBBEAN SEA
A few days’ cruise from
the bustle of Trinidad
(see maps at left),
Venezuela’s peaceful
rivers offer a glimpse
into a more serene
lifestyle.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
45
ted with a large outboard, hung by a line. Other open-sided but
tin-roofed huts floated on tethered rafts; their occupants, swinging lazily in hammocks, were silhouetted in the dark interior.
We pushed upstream with the flood through the milk-chocolate waters, the mangrove banks close and tall. These mangrove
trees grow to a height of 60 to 70 feet, and as the river twisted
and turned, we got the impression that Honey Jar was in a gigantic maze.
The banks closed to 50 yards, and by early afternoon we
reached the many-branched head of the river. Our chart was a
poor photocopy of a small-scale chart from an 1886 survey and
was most recently updated in the 1950s. Parts of it were faint,
and detail of the river’s head was minimal. As we inched around
islands, guessing at which fork to take at a junction, we wondered, should we miscalculate, how life might be in a permanent
mud berth in the jungle.
Rounding another bend, we came across a group of huts on
the edge of a small rise of ground backed by thick forest. All had
tidy palm-thatch roofs, and each was neatly set about with white
stones to define its boundary. Washing hung on lines, and small
areas looked cultivated. But with what, we couldn’t tell.
We saw little sign of life other than one woman who came out
of her house with a bright blue bucket and, taking no notice of
us, disappeared around a corner. Then we spotted a dugout
canoe coming upstream paddled by a very old man in a straw
hat. Deftly he made fast to a stump near the bank by the huts
and tended to something off the stern of the canoe. We watched
as, without upsetting his shallow craft, he carefully lifted a large
turtle inboard and upended it. There’d be plenty of meat for all,
we guessed.
Just when we’d decided that the channels and depths were beginning to get a little too challenging, we were approached by
three youths in a canoe. They hung on our toerail, dark eyes curious of everything in view, and through a pantomime of gestures, they indicated that they’d pilot us up to the village at the
headwaters. But the tide was already turning, and not sure if
they understood how deep our boat was, we declined, but we
gave them sodas and cookies.
For Honey Jar, the author’s
As we regained the lower reachsteel cutter, the rivers
es
of the river, we watched fascioffered a challenge starkly
nated as a bright pink cloud came
different from those she
closer, undulating and reshaping
encounters in her customary bluewater home.
as it moved. It glistened in the
46
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
evening sun and was reflected
on the still water. The color intensified to vermilion, shimmering with movement until it
became a glittering incandescent mass, burning but not consumed, like Jacob’s bush. Then
we heard it, the squawking and chattering of a thousand beaks.
The scarlet ibis were coming home to roost. The flock swept
over our heads and settled in the branches of the mangroves
ahead, where they preened, chattered, and exchanged gossip on
the catch of the day. As we drew near, they flew up again in a
cloudburst of scintillating pinks to settle a little farther on, flecking the dark green foliage with scarlet. At our slow approach,
first one, then three, then a dozen, and finally the lot fluttered up
again in a noisy chorus, then alighted ahead of us. And thus we
progressed, like a moving fireworks display.
By then the tropic dusk was falling rapidly, and we had to
find a suitable spot to anchor for the night. A small side
stream leading to the cut that we’d take the next day provided
just enough swinging room, and we settled the hook into the
soft mud. Drinks had been poured and supper was nearly
ready when we heard a soft thud against the side of the hull
and whispering voices.
It’s amazing how quickly food is forgotten when flight might
The author scans the estuary
of the Río San Juan as Honey
Jar, rigged for rivers under jib
and awning, sails from blue
water into brown.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
be the order of the day. John pushed ahead of me into the
cockpit to be confronted by three more young dark faces at the
toerail. This time a little halting English was spoken, and it
turned out that the three brothers, for so they were, lived in the
floating shack we’d spotted on the far side of the river. We
learned that they went to school in the village we had so nearly visited earlier, though how they managed the journey wasn’t
evident. They wanted cigarettes, but we had none, so they had
to be content with cookies.
The rest of the night was peaceful, and after a pre-dawn start
the next morning, we motored through the cut and into the
Río San Juan. This river is wider, longer, and deeper—once
you find the channel—than the Río Grande, and it’s marked
with lighted dolphins on most corners. We were soon to learn
the reason why. Meanwhile the pink mammalian dolphins
kept us amused.
The farther upriver we pushed, the deeper the channel became and the more closely the tall mangroves pressed in. The
current ran fast, and we knew that we’d have to stop for the
night before the tide turned. The difficulty was finding a place
shallow enough to anchor that allowed enough room to swing,
but we discovered that where any little confluence joined the
main river, there you’d find a small shoal with just enough holding. Dusk fell, and we ate supper to the accompaniment of snuf47
fling and grunting sounds coming from the nearby undergrowth. With temperatures in the 90s F, we arranged the cockpit
for sleeping and settled down under the full moon. Could whatever made the grunting noises, we wondered, swim the few
yards to the boat?
Night Visitor
It was only a little later that we suddenly awoke to find the
moon blotted out by a colossal black monster looming over us.
Two huge, shining orbs emitting light looked down, and a deep
throbbing rumble came from its belly. Transfixed by the bright
lights, we didn’t know if it were King Kong returned for a
snack or the final invasion by alien spaceships. We lay quivering. But we were too puny, it seemed, even for a snack, and
much to our relief, the leviathan rumbled slowly past and continued up river.
Up early the next morning to continue our exploration, we
forgot the incident in our delight at finding a small group of
open-sided thatched huts set in a small clearing. Dug-out canoes lay on the soft mud banks, and the huts were backed by
carefully tended banana trees. The huts were spacious, with a
floor well above the muddy ground, but only one dark face
peeped out shyly, then withdrew into the shadows. A group of
small children weren’t so inhibited; on seeing us, they immedi-
ately rushed to a pair of tiny dugouts and leaping in, paddled furiously toward us.
Sitting two to a canoe, neither of which had barely any freeboard, one paddler had to bail and paddle alternately lest their
little craft sink. We slowed Honey Jar as much as we dared without losing steerage, for the small canoeists came perilously close.
They shouted and waved their arms, obviously asking for something. “Cigaretta!” we made out. What? So young? Then we
spotted an older face peering from behind the nearest banana
tree and realized the posse was on deputy duty. The children
were mostly naked and looked reasonably healthy, if slightly
malnourished, but they were all energetic and smiling. We could
only offer more cookies, which were accepted and fought over,
while we waited for what seemed to us the inevitable disastrous
capsize. All was well, however, and after shooing them away, we
continued peacefully upstream to see what other surprises the
river held for us.
We didn’t have to wait long. About an hour later, when we
rounded another turn in the jungle-held river, we were in for a
shock. There, dominating the scene, was 500 feet of bright-red
bulk carrier—our monster of Scarlet ibis present a
the night before—that now dazzling display as they
stood as docile as a milk cow to flock toward their mangrove
take on a bellyful of Venezue- roost at day’s end.
Charts and Publications
Few publications offer information on
the rarely visited Gulf of Paria. Cruisers
heading that way will have to ask around
on Trinidad for snippets from sailors
who’ve been there. For starters, though,
here are the official English-language
publications available.
edge, port information, local communications, regulations and pilotage, anchorages, and a list of British Admiralty
charts for the area. It covers the north
coast of South America, Cabo Orange
to Punta Tirbi, including Trinidad and
Tobago, the Río Orinoco, and the
Netherlands Antilles.
Books
NP7A South America Pilot Volume 4
(3rd edition; UK Hydrographic Office)
includes navigation, location knowl-
48
Charts
The NIMA chart Gulf of Paria (DMA
24404) covers the waters from Port of
Spain, Trinidad, to the Península de
Paria and south to the Serpent’s Mouth.
The UK Hydrographic Office charts
include Approaches to Trinidad Including
the Gulf of Paria (BA-0493), which
covers pretty much the same area. Río
San Juan (BA-1330) shows this river in
more detail. Harbours and Anchorages in
the Gulf of Paria (BA-0482) includes
both Port of Spain and Güiria.
Jeremy McGeary
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
lan heavy crude. We slid slowly
by the mammoth hulk, still
riding high on its marks, its
single huge prop half clear of
the water. The logistics of turning this brute to go downstream baffled us until we later discovered the technique: The ship plants its nose into the soft bank
and lets the flood tide take the stern upstream. Time didn’t allow
us to wait around and watch this event for we had a long journey back to the delta. We bucked the last of the flood, then flew
downriver at a fair old clip with the ebb.
One of my favorite perches when conditions are favorable is on
the bow, and I made myself comfortable sitting on the pulpit, my
back nicely supported by the two spinnaker halyards shackled to
the stem, the better to take in the view. Relaxed and daydreaming, idly watching the wildlife, I wasn’t prepared when what
might have been half the Venezuelan navy appeared, steaming
around the bend full ahead in our direction. What’s more, desirous of making the best time possible, we were cutting corners
and hogging left of center around a left-hand curve. The large,
gray frigate was, quite rightly, on the same track. We were apparently on a collision course with the navy, and it was suddenly “action stations” aboard the Jar. We hadn’t time to cross to the correct side of the channel, and since we, with a lesser draft, were
more into the bank, we stood on. As John steered even closer to
the bank, I ran aft and very pointedly dipped our ensign—well,
that is the etiquette, isn’t it? We saw heads nodding on the
frigate’s open bridge; then a figure sprinted to the mast, and a few
A sunset befitting the exotic
and unusual nature of their
cruise salutes the author and
her husband as they depart
the Río San Juan.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
seconds later, the Venezuelan ensign dipped briefly. Salud, Señor.
There could hardly be more thrills to come, we thought, as we
settled to a steady transit downstream. As dusk approached,
however, the gods had the last word. The setting sun lit the sky
with ever more color until we felt there could be no greater saturation. Still the colors flooded the heavens with an intensity
we’d seldom seen. From the horizon, crimson rose to scarlet,
then amber to apricot, butter to lemon, melon to eau-de-Nil,
blending to forget-me-not, royal, and cobalt blues crowned by
midnight mauve. There was a double impact, for the scene was
mirrored in the still water, and astern, our wake mixed the colors like a kaleidoscope. And slashing through the middle of the
big picture were the inky-dark banks of low mangrove. This was
the crowning vision of our short cruise.
The sky faded, stars appeared, and we forked down a hurried
meal, taking turns at the helm. Now we navigated by those flashing dolphin markers, counting down the numbers, but it was
past midnight by the time we regained the estuary and after
0100 before we’d found a secure anchorage in a wide shoal at the
mouth of the river.
Although our river cruise had involved four days of motoring,
the experience was memorable, and just a glance at that sunset
photo is enough to take us right back. We’ll never forget the Rio
San Juan and the Rio Grande.
Jane Gibb and her husband, John, spent many years cruising, first
on Wairua Atua, a Rival 34, then aboard Honey Jar, and writing
about their experiences. Jane succumbed to cancer earlier this year.
49
YACHTSTYLE
New
Dynasty
A
for Ta Yang
With its new Robb Ladd-designed
Tayana 64 Deck Salon, an
established Eastern boatbuilder
pins its future on Western practices
L
ONG GONE ARE THE DAYS WHEN YACHTS BUILT IN TAIWAN
arrived in the United States without engines, with
black-iron tanks that had to be cut out in pieces
when they rusted, or in teak-and-mahogany cradles
that were better constructed than the boats they
held. Many yachts built in Taiwan yards today rival those from
the world’s finest builders in quality and craftsmanship, often
displacing far less of an owner’s bank balance. The Taiwanese
yachts of the future may be a different animal still.
50
The latest offering from the Ta Yang Yacht Building Company,
the semicustom Tayana 64 Deck Salon, foreshadows what may
be a brave new world in the offerings from the longtime builder
based in southern Taiwan. Hull number one arrived in the United States last spring. The yacht exhibits high-grade fit and finish,
solid sailing performance, and, at $1.2 million for the base boat,
a price that should give pause to its rivals in the marketplace. It
also represents the footings of a new worldview on the part of Ta
Yang that’s more in tune with Western needs and wants.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
BY KENNY WOOTON
PHOTOS BY BOB GRIESER
Cruising off the California
coast, the new Tayana 64
Deck Salon shows off its
lines and its lounging spaces.
The Robb Ladd-designed Tayana 64 Deck Salon is the over-all
largest production yacht the company builds. The popular
Tayana 65, introduced in the 1980s, is longer, but the 64 contains
more usable volume. The 64 is also now the queen of Tayana’s
Deck Salon line, which includes a 48, a 52, and a 58. If Robert
Noyce, a Tayana dealer in Annapolis, Maryland, is right, future
versions of the 64 and other models in the pipeline will take the
Westernized view farther still in the realm of design and construction standards. One manifestation of this new thinking in
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
the company, which built its first boat in 1973, lies in a pending
corporate identity change to Tayana World Yachts.
“To a certain degree, there’s going be a rebranding of Ta Yang,”
says Noyce, who’s spent extensive time in Taiwan and other
Asian boatbuilding centers over the past quarter century working as a consultant, an inspector at various yards, a marine surveyor, and, now, as a yacht dealer. He says Ta Yang’s new management, installed last year, is forward-thinking and committed
to bringing the company into step with the world marketplace.
51
YACHTSTYLE
In the long view (left), the Tayana 64
shows a stylish demeanor and a
practical rig. A close-up (right) reveals
all manner of refined practical details,
such as the plenitude of substantial
stainless-steel handholds and railings.
cal in its styling. Its profile evokes the feel
of a number of the deck-saloon boats that
have flooded the market in recent years.
Step through the companionway though,
and you feel you’ve entered a 70-footer.
The 64 is a veritable boxcar, albeit a luxurious one. Its first cousin, the Robert Harris-designed 65, is itself spacious and
comfortable, but Ta Yang wanted a modern design with more space below and a
deck saloon, all without compromising
performance. Ladd drew the 64 from the
ground up with this mission in mind. It
has more freeboard, more beam carried
aft, and more fuel and water capacity than
the 65. Its interior volume is 20 percent
greater. Ta Yang will still build 65s as orders are taken, but with the 64, the company wanted to offer a design that reflected more contemporary thinking.
“My reasoning behind this design was
to provide as big and as accommodating
a 64-footer as possible, while still maintaining good sailing qualities,” Ladd says.
“The boat has the volume and deck
geometry to provide an almost infinite
variety of customization.”
Tayana 64 Deck Salon
LOA
LWL
Beam
Draft (deep/shoal)
That means modernizing its Kaohsiung
yard and building yachts that comply
with such Western quality standards as
those recommended by the internationally recognized American Boat & Yacht
Council (ABYC).
Ta Yang’s former management team
had largely remained intact since the yard
began operation. By most accounts, it
kept the yard viable and generally kept
pace with modern design and building
technology. But now, according to Noyce,
Peter Chen, who’s part of the family that
founded the yard and took over as general manager in December 2004, and sales
manager and head engineer Basil Lin, a
30-year veteran of Ta Yang, are poised to
take the operation to the next level.
52
Chen was schooled at The George Washington University and lived in Seattle for a
time absorbing Western culture and
mores. He worked at the yard as a young
man, and after being appointed to his post
at Ta Yang, he quickly set about modernizing the factory and offices, going so far as
to install an herb garden in back and a cappuccino machine for Western visitors.
These changes aren’t lost on Robb Ladd,
who’s known of and worked with the
company for several years. “Some of the
things that provided resistance and challenge before are not factors today,” he says.
Designs for Today
To the casual observer, the Tayana 64
Deck Salon is appealing, but it’s not radi-
63' 9" (19.43 m.)
55' 10" (17.02 m.)
18' 1" (5.51 m.)
8' 0"/6' 10"
(2.44/2.08 m.)
Sail Area
1,769 sq. ft (164 sq. m.)
Ballast
21,054 lb. (9,570 kg.)
Displacement 61,018 lb. (27,735 kg.)
Ballast/D
.35
D/L
157
SA/D
18.26
Water
330 gal. (1,251 l.)
Fuel
540 gal. (2,047 l.)
Mast Height
90' 0" (27.4 m.)
Engine
Yanmar 200-hp. diesel
Designer
Robb Ladd
Price (base)
$1,200,000
Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. Ltd.
+886-7-641-2721
www.tayanayachts.com.tw
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Hull number one is a spec boat delivered last spring to Cabrillo Yacht Sales in
San Diego. It has a four-stateroom accommodation plan: expansive master cabin
aft, facing doubles forward, and a crew
cabin amidships abaft the companionway—an ideal arrangement for charter, which may have been on the
minds of the dealers who drew up
the specification. The yacht’s 18foot beam allows a formidable
common area, with an octagonal dining table to starboard
and comfortable cocktail seating to port.
As one would
expect from a seasoned Taiwan yard,
the joinery is crafted
with care and is finished exceptionally
well. In the sunlight admitted
through the large
deck-saloon windows, the yacht’s
ambience evokes more the bright, woody
cool of a contemporary restaurant than
the shadowy dank of a yacht-club bar.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
With a variety of arrangements possible within the structural limitations of
the hull, long-distance cruisers might opt
for a more substantial nav station and
larger sinks in the galley than those on
hull number one. They might also use
the space freed up by the elimination
of a stateroom for an office or a
proper cruising workshop. Tayana
dealers will work with Ladd to
come up with the best solution to
a client’s needs.
Consistent with current thinking on cruising-yacht design,
the yacht’s sailing systems are
shorthanded-friendly. Cabrillo’s 64 is
equipped with Seldén
Furlex genoa and staysail
furlers and with Leisure
Furl in-boom reefing.
The Lewmar primary
and halyard winches
are electric. Halyards
lead through stoppers on the
cabin top, under a canvas dodger. This
boat is outfitted with dual cockpits,
which would serve the charter trade by
providing a modicum of crew/client seg-
regation, but those who plan to cruise or
entertain guests might prefer a single,
large space. Cabrillo’s 64 has plenty of
uncluttered teak-dressed deck surface to
ramble about on.
Over the years, Ta Yang has hired a
number of well-known designers to draw
its boats, including Harris, Pieter Beeldsnijder, and Robert Perry, who designed
the Tayana 37, of which nearly 600 have
been delivered. Ladd has worked with Ta
Yang on projects before, but the 64 DS is
his first keel-up design for them.
Ladd started in the business in 1975,
and since the late 1970s has drawn boats
for a number of Taiwan yards. His Taiwan designs, both as an independent
and as an employee of John G. Alden,
include the Skye 51 and 54, the Albin
Nimbus 41, the Finya 75, the Ka Shing
47, and the CT 47.
At the Annapolis boat show in 1990,
representatives of Ta Yang stopped by his
booth and discussed doing a 72-footer,
but nothing came of it. Ten years later, the
same people approached him to discuss
designing a raised-deck-saloon performance cruising yacht. That boat became
the 64 Deck Salon.
53
YACHTSTYLE
The Convenience of CAD
Yacht designers have used
computers for as long as the
software and hardware have
been available. But the way
they share their work with
the builders and clients has
changed significantly in recent years. In the earlier
days of Asian yacht building, designers had to plot
out full-size patterns for
framing and mail them, or
deliver them in person, to
the yards and work directly
with the craftsmen to sort
out production issues.
Working with current 3-D
CAD software and e-mail,
Ladd was able to deliver to
Ta Yang the work on the
64—from the first color
renderings to the smallest construction
details—without making a trip to Taiwan.
Perry, in his late 20s when he created
the 37 in 1974, says he supplied the yard
with a hand-drawn set of lines, a table of
offsets, and not much else.
“I just sold them a bare-bones set of
plans,” he says. “The company built the
boat from that.”
He didn’t visit the yard during production, not for lack of want, but more because Ta Yang didn’t offer to pay the
young designer’s way.
“The yard would send you a photo of
the plug, and if you saw something you
didn’t like, the turnaround time wasn’t
fast enough to do anything about it if you
wanted to,” he says.
Today, he prefers to visit the yards, particularly before the deck plug is finished
to ensure that the ergonomics are satisfactory, and just before the launch. He
says some yards are more receptive than
others to on-site designer involvement.
E-mail, especially the ability to e-mail
photos, has become invaluable in longdistance design, and the advent of 3-D
modeling at the most sophisticated yards
has further reduced the guesswork and
the tendencies of some yards to improvise and mess up a designer’s work.
“With all those tools, I don’t know how
the yard could screw one up,” says Perry.
Hull number 588 of Perry’s Tayana 37
was due to start lamination in July.
Ladd says that the language barrier and
a certain level of resistance to change still
create some challenges for designers
54
working from afar, but it’s not as difficult
as it once was. He can still e-mail a construction drawing to a yard in Asia at
night and have a response in the morning.
While some yards in Asia still lack the
technology to work this way, many are
well in step with the times. Ta Yang has sophisticated CAD-savvy engineering and
drafting departments and has a large-format plotter that allows workers to download drawings from designers and take
them directly to the shop floor. The only
technology the yard lacks that Ladd feels
might be helpful is a five-axis cutter. But
with labor costs so low, it’s still more costeffective for it to build its plugs the oldfashioned way. Ladd says the skills of the
third-generation boatbuilding labor—fathers, sons, and now their sons learning
the trade—has contributed to the sophistication of Taiwan builds as well.
“Ta Yang is as up to date as most yards
in the world,” Ladd says. “It’s a yard that
fully understands drawings, and they
know what to do with them.”
While technology greases the wheels,
there’s no substitute for in-person oversight of any custom project. In the case of
most larger custom yachts, an owner’s
representative will be on site full-time.
Cabrillo’s owner, Dan Peter, made several
trips to Ta Yang during production of the
64. Noyce, too, has escorted clients to Taiwan to monitor progress of their boats
and says he will do so as a matter of
course in the future.
Ladd’s mission with the 64 was to provide the best possible performance he
Eastern craftsmanship is plainly evident
in the warmly finished interior, from the
burl-veneer tables in the saloon (top) to
the elegant curves in the companionway
steps and banister and in the galley
cabinet doors (right).
could within a hull with a given volume.
He created a hull with a “sweet, fair underbody,” a powerful stern to aid in upwind speed and stability, and an entry
fine enough to keep the boat pointing
well but not to the point of being wet.
The boat is considerably wider at the
deck than at the waterline, in part to accommodate the big cabin house and
comfortable side decks.
“What I tried to do here is introduce
some elements of a fast boat, but one that
still has a pleasing profile,” he says.
On a short hop from the harbor at San
Diego to Mission Bay, the 64 exhibited appealing sailing performance for a boat of
its volume and displacement (61,000
pounds). It was responsive to the helm and
seakindly in the light Pacific swells. A 200horsepower Yanmar pushed it along at 10
knots. Aided by a bow thruster, the boat
was a snap to handle in close quarters.
Where Taiwan boats once may have required an engineering degree to service,
the Tayana 64 reflects contemporary
thinking on easy-to-find, easy-to-reach
plumbing, mechanical, and electrical installations. Three-way access to the engine room readily exposes filters and
belts, and the yacht’s pumps, wiring, and
through-hulls are easy to get to. Tankage
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
is stainless steel, aluminum, and FRP. The
boat’s construction meets American Bureau of Shipping (ABS), ABYC, and other
international standards.
Westernizing Asian building standards
is a goal to which Noyce has devoted considerable time and energy. In April, he organized a seminar with players in the
Chinese and Taiwanese boatbuilding industries at the Shanghai boat show to impart to them the value of meeting commonly accepted Western construction
standards—ABYC, ABS, and European
Union, for example—as a way of ensuring continuity and consistency in their
own production processes.
working with clients on a Tayana 48 Deck
Salon that will also borrow from the
styling spirit of the 53.
Putting On the Style
The future of Ta Yang and Tayana may
lie in a new Ladd project that the yard is
considering. He believes that while the
build quality in Taiwan is first-class, most
of the yachts coming out of there are “last
generation” designs. He’s doing preliminary work on a stylish, light-displacement, 53-foot performance cruising boat
for the yard’s consideration. He feels this
new effort could be a catalyst for taking
the company in a new direction.
“The design adopts a ‘take no prisoners’ approach,” he says. “Light displacement, a long waterline, a high-speed hull
form, and plenty of room below.”
Noyce hopes to place an order soon for
hull number two of the 64 DS that incorporates some of the styling elements that
Ladd has proposed for the 53. He’s also
their price. The Tayana 64’s $1.2 million
price tag clearly is a major draw. In sailaway trim, with optional teak decks, the
boat still doesn’t approach the cost of an
Oyster or a Swan of similar size.
“You’d have a hard time spending
$100,000” to fully outfit the boat for extended cruising, Cabrillo’s Peter says. It is
indeed a lot of boat for the money.
“Things have come full circle from the
1960s, when you got what you paid for,”
says Ladd. “In the early 1980s, you started
getting a whole lot more than you paid for.
Now you get top quality at value prices.”
Low-cost labor still weighs heavily in
the price of a Taiwan boat, but other tangibles, including marketing, standard
equipment, and extensive service networks, factor into prices as well.
Service is on the mind of any cruising-
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
A Maturing Industry
Despite its successes and popularity as
a boatbuilding venue, Asia is still working
through the long-term perception problem created by early offerings from the
region that were far from stellar. But as
labor skills, production methods, and
marketing have improved, so has the
quality of the boats. What once were justifiably referred to as “leaky teakies” are
now serious contenders in the marketplace. A key factor in their appeal remains
boat buyer. While some high-end semicustom builders maintain dedicated service operations, Tayana’s service is done at
the dealer level. Peter handles inquiries
and owner issues and works with Tayana
to ship parts wherever in the world a customer needs them. Noyce says he’s working with the factory to modernize and
streamline its approach to warranty work.
And the playing field is changing. The
weakness of the dollar, competition at the
value end of the market, and the effect on
labor costs of the booming high-techoriented Taiwanese economy have undercut that country’s advantage to some degree. Many of the Taiwanese builders, and
the U.S. and European companies that
market lines built there, have chased
cheap and willing labor elsewhere in Asia,
most recently to mainland China. Ladd
has a new 30-foot sportboat design that
will be built in Shanghai.
The Taiwan industry is producing far
fewer boats than it once did, but its focus
is shifting more toward larger custom
projects. Most believe China, with its
super-cheap labor, is poised to be the next
Taiwan. Noyce says the Taiwan yards that
are staying put, such as Ta Yang, have survived and flourished for good reason.
Bruce Livingston, who managed factories building Little Harbor sailboats and
Grand Banks powerboats in Taiwan, Singapore, and Malaysia, is general manager
of a new company called Global Yacht
Builders. The company intends to begin
building a line of motorsailers and
powerboats in Taiwan in the near future.
It will be doing custom projects for other
builders as well.
“My reasons for moving to Taiwan are
several: cost-effectiveness, quality, and infrastructure,” Livingston says.
Livingston also believes that while
China may be well suited for building
smaller boats and production models,
Taiwan labor still has an advantage when
it comes to efficiency, and the workers
and other infrastructure there are better
equipped for more complex projects.
Bigger and more complex may be in
Tayana’s future. Noyce says Ladd is
working for the yard on a design for a
deck-saloon yacht in excess of 70 feet. If
the 64 Deck Salon, the queen of the
Tayana fleet, is any measure, that 70footer will also give Western builders a
good run for their money.
Kenny Wooton is a CW contributing editor.
55
WINTER GETAWAYS
BY HERB MCCORMICK
PHOTOS BY BOBBY GRIESER
Fathers and
On a charter vacation in
the British Virgin Islands
with his daughter, two
god-daughters, and his best
pals, the author discovers
that on a trip to paradise
with a gaggle of young
girls, time can absolutely
stand still . . . or move
faster than ever
S
o right before the trip, I
purchase a brand-new
Red Sox cap—a white
cotton one ’cause I know
it’s going to be hot in the
islands—and as a lifelong
fan of the Boston Nine, I reckoned it was
time to replace my ratty old blue one after
the Sox finally “reversed the curse” and
56
won the World Series the previous fall.
You never know when and where the opportunity to yank the chain of a Yankees
fan might present itself, right?
Now we’re sitting in Trellis Bay, near
Tortola in the British Virgin Islands, on
our Moorings 4700 catamaran. I’ve just
strolled back from the airport at Beef Island to meet the incoming flight of my
old friend PK and his daughter, Helene.
While I met the plane, another pal, who
goes by the nickname Furbio, waited back
on the boat with my daughter, Maggie,
and his two daughters, Molly and Lauren.
And yes, the trip did have a pre-conceived
theme: After many years of idle chatter,
we three dads were finally taking our
rapidly growing “little girls” for a chartercruise vacation.
As PK and Helene sort out their cabin
in the forward port stateroom of our big
cat, Saturday Knight, the rest of us slip
over the side for a refreshing swim. Soon
enough, everyone’s in the drink.
We all come back aboard, and everyone’s taking turns using the freshwater
shower off the aft deck. Maggie pulls off
her red bathing suit from beneath the
towel wrapped around her and gives it a
carefree toss before disappearing below
to change.
A while later, we’re all lounging around,
getting the grill and the dogs and the
burgers ready, when it occurs to me that I
should be wearing my Sox cap. As I
might’ve mentioned, you just never know
who could be hanging out on the next
boat over.
So I’m hunting everywhere for the cap
and no one knows where it’s gone to and
I’m starting to wonder—egad!—if it
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Daughters
Snapshots from the
B.V.I. (clockwise from
upper left): Flanked by
daughters Molly and
Lauren, Furbio explores
the depths; Helene,
Maggie, and Molly kick
back on a broad reach;
PK (blue cap) and I
relish a trip we’d
talked about for years.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
57
Sailing off Jost Van Dyke (left), the girls
take in the crystal-clear waters. At
Anegada (above), brave Helene gets
up close and personal to her supper.
Enjoying The Baths (right) with fresh
sets of eyes was a real treat
might’ve blown overboard, when it finally appears. Under Maggie’s red bathing
suit. Maggie’s brand-new, soaking-wet,
red bathing suit!
My crisp white cap is now, well, damp
pink, but I pull it on anyway. And later on
I take it off and look at it. And as the
evening unfolds I look at it quite a bit.
And every time I do, I think of my beautiful little girl, and the pink hat starts to
grow on me. I mean, really, really grow on
me. By the way, isn’t beer great?
So just before bed, I kiss my already
snoozing daughter on the cheek and put
the hat up on a shelf—the very same hat
that just a few hours earlier I’d been planning to give a good scrub with hot, soapy
water—and I go to sleep. As slumber
58
comes, it occurs to me that I’m never
going to wash that pink hat. Like, ever.
F
rom the very moment I
learned that fatherhood
was on my horizon, I
wanted a daughter. My
dad and I had ultimately
weathered the slings and
arrows of some outrageous father/son misfortunes—at times
the outcome was seriously in doubt—
but I’d had a good, hard look at that
movie and was terrified by the thought
of a sequel. Plus, I know precisely what
happens to boys, and when. To paraphrase the comedian Paul Reiser, I went
to high school with me.
Not that I didn’t realize that raising a
daughter would have its own tests, but all
in all, I preferred my chances with the
fairer sex. After all, my very own sister always seemed to be Daddy’s Girl, even as
he and I were at each other’s throats.
Would it be asking too much to have the
same sort of relationship they shared?
There were, of course, early trials and
tribulations. I was on a magazine assignment in New Zealand when I got
the news that, back home in Rhode Island at the tender age of 3, Maggie had
plunged some 15 feet from the balcony
of a health club, of all places. But she
never lost consciousness and had a pithy
comment to the ambulance attendants
after they’d strapped her to the gurney
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
for the ride to the hospital: “I’m stuck.”
She recovered fully and apparently inherited her dad’s hard head.
She hated loud noises—thunder, fireworks, roaring surf, the sunset report of a
yacht-club cannon—which were all
things I loved. She adored stuff—snakes,
spiders, all the creepy-crawlies—which
gave me the willies. But from her earliest
days we undoubtedly shared a passion for
several of the most important things:
reading, music, the water. Especially the
water. By 7 she could swim nearly the
length of a regulation pool—underwater.
She was so oversensitive to some things I
could scream, so compassionate in other
ways I could weep. I guess it goes without
saying, but I’ll say it anyway: I love her so.
Then there were my pals, PK and Furbio, as good a set of friends as a fellow
could ask for. We’d all been born in New-
port Hospital a few months apart when
Ike was still running the big show, been
constants in one another’s lives for
decades on end, stood up for one another
at marriages, and been right there with an
open ear and a shoulder to lean on when
parents set forth to the great beyond. PK
was Maggie’s godfather; his daughter, Helene, and Furbio’s youngest, Lauren, were
both mine.
I had a long history with these lads, and
for years and years we’d been talking
about chartering a sailboat and taking a
spin together through the B.V.I. And
that’s all it had been: talk. Then, somehow, all the planets in our different daily
universes fell into alignment—the i’s of
school vacations were dotted, the t’s of
work commitments were crossed—and
suddenly we were in Trellis Bay last spring
with a freezer full of food, a chart spread
out on the saloon table, and a week’s
worth of plans to be made. We were finally going sailing after all.
A
t 7, my Maggie was the
youngest aboard. Helene, 10, and a terror on
the lacrosse fields back
home in Baltimore, was
just enough older to
think Maggie was at
times goofy, and just enough more mature to be her good buddy anyway. Fourteen-year-old Lauren was happiest listening to musicals on her portable DVD
player, but she was a pacesetter when the
activities turned aquatic. At 16, Furbio’s
oldest daughter, Molly, was the elder of
the tribe in many ways: Her wry observations soared over the heads of the other
girls about 99 percent of the time. And if
Sure, we could’ve taken the kids to Disneyworld or on a ski trip, but what’s better than a
24/7 sailboat excursion to the blue waters of the Caribbean, where the best lessons
learned are the intangible ones?
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
59
Maggie grows up to be half the waterwoman Molly is, I’ll be very happy.
The first stop, naturally, was The Baths
at Virgin Gorda. We ferried the girls in as
far as the dinghy mooring on one of those
days when the rollers were breaking on
the beachfront and, when swimming
ashore, you had to time your approach
between the wave sets to avoid getting
crunched at the last moment. I actually
only learned this after Maggie’s successful, if spluttering landing. She never
would’ve tried it had the other girls not
been over the side the moment we picked
up the mooring—in other words, before I
could say anything—and it set the tone
for nearly all the adventures that would
follow. The very last thing my daughter
was going to be was left behind.
I’ve wandered The Baths a few times
over the years, but it was all so very different with a bunch of kids who’d never
been there before, whose joy and energy
over all this new terrain was contagious,
and this, too, would become a recurrent
theme for the voyage. If you want to view
something familiar through a fresh set of
eyes, do not hesitate to bring a few fresh
sets of eyes.
That night we anchored in Gorda
Sound for another round of swimming
and a barbecue, and next morning we
hopped ashore for a tour of the Bitter
End Yacht Club, a discovery for the girls
that was on a par with Columbus’ of the
New World. Luckily, since the next stop
was the parched island of Anegada, I had
a quick look at the water tanks before we
shoved off, and promptly topped them
off while I still had the chance. Do you
have any idea how much fresh water four
young ladies can consume in the space of
48 hours? Neither did I. For some reason,
my lecture on the benefits of saltwater
bathing was met with silence.
In Anegada, we ran into my old pal Bob
Grieser, the marine photographer, who
was there on assignment for another sailing magazine. Included in Bobby’s wide
repertoire of skills is his remarkable ability to imitate a barking hound, and thus
the nickname Photo Dog was bestowed
upon him. If a voyage can have a mascot,
he became ours, for the girls, especially
Maggie, adored him. He joined us for the
ride out to Loblolly Beach and an epic
snorkel on the reefs—the new experiences just kept coming and coming—and
when we returned to the harbor, he made
chums of the local fishermen and did his
best to get the girls to pose for a picture
with a big, live Anegada lobster. Only
60
brave Helene had the nerve, though they
all made extremely short work of one
after its brief detour to the open-fire grill.
Our little trip was flying by, but it was
starting to get really good, and it would
get better still.
O
ne wishes he could
say the vacation was
a success on absolutely all counts,
that the girls took to
sailing like the fish
they resembled once
they splashed the water, but that would
be pushing it. For them, the sailing was
simply the means to reach a new island:
Maggie generally hit the trampoline or
the settee and zonked out for every passage; the other girls retreated to books
and iPods or joined my daughter for a
nap. But I made some serious inroads
with the guys, neither of whom had sailed
much before. By trip’s end, Furbio was
envisioning the day he retires as a firefighter to move aboard a catamaran, and
PK, though not exactly bitten by the sailing bug, is now in the market for a cabin
cruiser. Not bad, if I do say so myself.
But the longish sail from Anegada to
Jost Van Dyke was one of my highlights,
mainly because it gave me the chance to
reflect on the trip so far. I was actually
glad to see Maggie curled up and snoozing; her mother would’ve been scandalized by the hours she was keeping, and
she clearly needed the rest. But her days
(and nights) had been filled with swimming and laughter and camaraderie. She
may have been the junior member of the
sisterhood, and as such she spent equal
amounts of energy learning from the
others and seeking their approval. But in
return she was granted generous helpings
of time and patience and friendship. It
was a wonderful thing to watch.
Yes, we could’ve taken the kids to Disneyland or on a ski trip, but what’s better
than a 24/7 sailboat excursion in the
Caribbean, where the best lessons learned
are the intangible ones—what it takes to
be a good shipmate, to be considerate of
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
alized in a sappy moment for which I
have no excuses or apologies, we’ll always have these islands.
W
The famous rock spires known as The
Indians (above) provided plenty of
undersea adventures. Whatever
happens down the line, Maggie and I
(below) will always have these islands.
ell, I’m sure you
can guess what
happened to
the pink cap.
By week’s end,
the sweat and
brine had conspired to erase the reddish tint almost
completely, and it looked just about
brand-new. Like our little trip, now coming to an end, Maggie’s pink present simply wasn’t meant to last forever.
After Jost, we pulled into The Bight at
Norman Island, where the piercing sound
of a yelping mutt signaled a final drive-by
visit from the beloved Photo Dog and
where the girls had a quick, unfortunate
glimpse of the antics atop the lewd, infamous Willie T’s, which led to a round of
questions that were simply impossible to
answer and fingers’ crossed that the
moms would never hear about this singular lapse of judgment.
Finally, we got up real early on our last
full day and made our way over to The
Indians—the B.V.I.’s signature outcropping of rock and sea life, one of the great
snorkeling spots in the Caribbean—
where we scored the best mooring around
and set up for a long morning and afternoon of water sports.
By 0900, Maggie and I were in the water
with masks and snorkels and making for
the nearby reef. She insisted on leading
and took right off, and I had to do some
serious booking to keep up. I was a pretty
proud papa, I must say, when something
happened that will remain with me for a
long time.
I could see she was heading for simple
trouble, a fringe of coral with no pass and
small, breaking wavelets, where there was
no option but to turn around. It was no
big deal, really, but she had a moment of
panic and started babbling away, her eyes
very wide, though it was impossible to
pinpoint the exact nature of her distress
since she refused to take the snorkel out
of her mouth. “Rrrrrrrmmmmmmmrrrrr,” she said. In any event, I waved for
her to follow me in the opposite direction, and she dutifully collected herself
and obeyed.
As we worked our way into deeper
water, she sidled up alongside and
grabbed my hand, and she held on as we
calmly resumed our way back to the
boat, now enjoying the play of light on
the reef and the schools of small, colorful fishes.
It was much later, on the flight home
actually, that it dawned on me that the
entire little escapade encapsulated so
many transitions one deals with as a parent: trust, discovery, discomfort, fear,
support, recovery, more trust.
And the final little moment, just before
we reached the boat, gave me a clear look
at the coming attraction that all fathers of
young daughters will someday inevitably
face. As we approached the swim ladder
to climb back aboard, she gave my fingers
one last, tough, lovely squeeze. Then she
let go and was gone.
Herb McCormick is the editor of CW.
others while living in a small space, to
conserve water and energy and be immersed in nature and the outdoors? What
other venue could give you what you
get—what you earn—by being on a small
boat for a real voyage?
As we dodged one squall after another
on the sail to Jost, I realized our week
together would ultimately become one
seamless memory—all of us together,
frozen in time, healthy and tan and very
happy—like an image from a favorite
old photograph. Who knows what the
future will hold, what these little girls
will eventually become, what grand adventures are waiting out there for them?
At that moment, I couldn’t have cared
less. We were all together on a boat
cleaving purposefully through the blue
Caribbean sea. Whatever happens, I reC RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER
2005
61
Winter Getaways
for Fathers, Daughters, &
Every Other Charterer
From Grenada to Florida,
fun in the sun awaits you
BY ELAINE LEMBO
62
cause you read it here, and he’ll make
your phone call worth the effort. B season
rates are 12 percent lower than the A season rates normally in effect at this time of
year. For details on this offer and others
and about CYOA’s fleet, which includes a
new Jeanneau 49 and a new Hunter 46,
contact the company.
If you’re considering buying a boat and
you dig the Bahamas, here’s an incentive:
Maine Cat will refund 50 percent of the
charter cost from its Hopetown base if
you later make one of its catamarans your
A week’s sail through the Caribbean’s
Windward Islands affords plenty of time
for snorkeling the Tobago Cays, in St.
Vincent and the Grenadines.
own. Contact the company for details.
In one of the more southerly hot
spots, St. Vincent, you’ll find Barefoot
Yacht Charters. Sail with this company
nine days for the price of seven from
January 6 though 31, 2006. Barefoot rewards procrastinators: Save up to 20
percent of premium prices if you book
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF BAR EFOOT YACHT CHARTE R S
H
erb isn’t the only
bareboater to face
the girl-power
challenge: When I
browsed among the
booths of chartercompanies at a fall
boat show, I encountered Dan Burger of
Boston. He was on a hunt for the best
boat—and the sweetest deal—so he
could sail his crew of five young beauties around the British Virgin Islands in
March 2006.
For Dan, the prospect of finding the
right boat to accommodate his twodaughter family as well as another couple
and their three young female charges
came down to a daunting search for bunk
space. “One person per pillow!” he pleaded as his brood, 7-year-old Ellie and 5
1/2-year-old Katie, enthusiastically solved
the dilemma by pointing to pictures of
catamarans in color brochures.
The moral of the story? Mono or multi,
whatever your sailing itinerary, whoever
your crew, in the winter of 2006 there’s a
deal for you, ready to form the perfect
backdrop for the onboard memories
you’ll be busy making.
For details on rates, dates, and boats
available in the cruising grounds named
in “Hot Spots,” consult the charter-company listings beginning on page 65.
Among the trove of on-the-water riches are these:
Sail from America’s Paradise in St.
Thomas, in the United States Virgin Islands, in February 2006 if you want to
save a tidy bundle. Tell John Jacob and his
staff at CYOA Yacht Charters that you
know he’s offering the lower season rates,
which are called the B rates, through the
end of that dreaded winter month be-
Explore nature’s little secrets aboard a
catamaran through the British Virgin
Islands, a perennial favorite for American sailors on the run from snow.
COU RTESY OF VOYAG E CHARTE R S
Hot Spots
North American sailors say
these are the best winter sailing
destinations:
The Caribbean
British Virgin Islands
U.S. Virgin Islands
Spanish Virgin Islands
Windward Islands
Leeward Islands
Florida
The Bahamas
Source: 2004 Sailing Industry Study
(copyright 2005 The Sailing Company)
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
within a month of your charter. Consult
the company website for updates and
late-breaking discounts.
TMM, in St. Vincent, Belize, and with
headquarters in Tortola, in the B.V.I., will
take 10 percent off any charter of 10 days
or longer sailed from January 9 through
30 or from April 3 through 24. Sail for 10
days or longer from June 5 through October 31 and knock 15 percent off the
regular rates.
From Virgin Gorda, in the B.V.I., the
Bitter End Yacht Club offers an attractive platform for all kinds of beach departures as well as a new yacht/villa collaboration with The Moorings for surf
’n’ turfers. Stay five nights at the Bitter
End, then sail for five days aboard a
Moorings 332.
Bitter End doesn’t ignore transients, either: Any bareboat charterer is welcome
to rent from the club’s array of gold, silver, and bronze fleets, which include
Hobie Getaways and Hobie Waves,
Rhodes 19s, Hunter 216s, Optimists,
Lasers, and Xcites. Choose from an assortment of rental periods, from a single
hour to half- and full-day use.
Voyage Charters in Tortola, B.V.I., offers a range of rewards to vacationers
sailing both its crewed and bareboat
fleets of catamarans. Special offers include 5-percent discounts off singlefamily charters, discounts for two or
more yachts taken out by one group, 10percent discounts on charter rates for
repeat clients, and discounts for multiple-week charters. New to the company’s B.V.I. fleet is Moon Shadow, a
crewed Voyage 580, two Voyage 440s,
each equipped with air conditioning,
and a Voyage 500 that’s available for
bareboat charter.
Horizon Yacht Charters, with fleets
in the B.V.I., Antigua, and Grenada,
makes winter better in the Leewards and
Windwards in these ways: CW readers
who put down deposits for B.V.I. departures aboard its Bavaria fleet before January 4, 2006, get 15 percent off their
weeklong charters between January 31
and April 23; book departures from the
company’s bases in Antigua and Grenada before January 15, 2006, and earn a
15-percent discount on weeklong charters from January 31 through April 15.
Sailing with Horizon can expand your
chartering grounds, as the company
opens a new base in St. Martin this
month, increasing itineraries to include
one-way charters between Antigua and
St. Martin. Be sure to mention that you
read all discount offers here; for details
and restrictions, contact Horizon.
If you’re in a hurry to go sailing, Sunsail is running a special of up to 50 percent off on short-term charters of from
three to six nights on certain fall/early
winter dates aboard certain boats. Check
the company’s website. Its Reef Week discounts apply to charters aboard monohulls up to 48 feet throughout its
Caribbean bases; the company throws in
63
a welcome cocktail party to sweeten arrivals. Discounts range
from 15 percent off one-week charters during specific time slots
and 25 percent off two-week trips, also in specific periods. Repeat Sunsail clients can avail themselves of an additional 5-percent discount with a Reef Week discount.
Choose Catamaran Company and you’ll find there’s four seasons and many discounts to suit you and your crew. The company offers discounts to new and repeat clients throughout its
four custom seasons; check the website for time periods. Repeat
sailors can extend their charters beyond a week and sail free the
extra days, or stick to the weeklong schedule and earn discounts
of 10 percent off full rates while sleeping aboard for free the
night before the trip begins. Depending on the season, new
sailors can also save as much as 10 percent off weeklong charters
or sail free days if they charter for a period longer than a week.
New sailors can also pay as little as $150 for the sleep-aboard,
depending on trip length and season.
Before the clock strikes midnight on your choices, give yourself a New Year’s 2006 present with some help from The Moorings. New clients can save 15 percent off regular rates from January 6 through February 9, 2006, on Caribbean charters of at
least five days aboard monohulls or multihulls; repeat customers may shave another 5 percent off the total cost. If you prefer to sail later in 2006, from July 1 through November 11, you
can save 15 percent on charters lasting five to 12 days and 25
percent on charters of 13 days or longer. Repeat clients take another 5 percent off the total. The offer includes departures from
Moorings bases in the eastern Caribbean as well as in Mexico’s
Sea of Cortez, Belize, and the Bahamas—another favorite Hot
Spot of North American sailors. Be sure to make your booking
by the deadline, December 30, 2005.
Here’s an offer with the same reservation deadline, but from
a Windward orientation: In January 2006, The Moorings
opens a Footloose Sailing Charters base in Marigot Bay, St.
Lucia. Sail either a multihull or a monohull with Footloose,
the company’s budget-charter subsidiary, from this new base
between January 5 and February 9, 2006, and get 15 percent
off the full price; save 25 percent for charters taken between
July 1 and November 11, 2006. Bookings must be for at least
five-day charters; other restrictions apply.
If you plan to cruise someplace closer to home over the
winter, the Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort
Myers, Florida, which completed a $438 million expansion
and renovation in the fall of 2005, has become a gateway for
growing numbers of airlines, meaning cheaper and more numerous flights.
If you’re interested in buying a new sailboat from 35 to 42 feet
and placing it with a charter fleet in the winter of 2006, you may
want to contact Southwest Florida Yachts for details about its
charter-yacht ownership program.
Elaine Lembo is CW’s managing editor.
64
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
B OB G R I ESER
The CYOA charter base in Frenchtown, on St. Thomas in the
U.S. Virgin Islands, is mere minutes from the island’s
bustling waterfront.
Charter Companies
COU RTESY OF SU NSAI L
Abaco Bahamas Charters: 800-626-5690, 242-366-0151,
info@abacocharters.com and www.abacocharters.com
Barecat Charters Inc.: 800-296-5287, 610-458-1550,
lynne@barecat.com and www.barecat.com
Barefoot Yacht Charters: 784-456-9526,
barebum@caribsurf.com and www.barefootyachts.com
Bitter End Yacht Club: 800-872-2392, 305-468-0168,
binfo@beyc.com and www.beyc.com
BVI Yacht Charters Ltd.: 888-615-4006, 284-494-4289,
sailbvi@surfbvi.com and www.bviyachtcharters.com
The Catamaran Company: 800-262-0308, 954-566-9806,
info@catamarans.com and www.catamarans.com
Conch Charters Ltd.: 800-521-8939, 284-494-4868,
cruising@conchcharters.com and www.conchcharters.com
CYOA Yacht Charters: 800-944-2962, 340-777-9690,
info@cyoacharters.com and www.cyoacharters.com
DSL Yachting: 758-452-8531, sandra@dsl-yachting.com and
www.dsl-yachting.com
Florida Sailing Charter Club: 800-468-4440, 727-895-8955,
gosailing@floridasailing.com and www.floridasailing.com
Florida Yacht Charters & Sales Inc.: 800-537-0050, 305-5328600, charter@floridayacht.com and www.floridayacht.com
Footloose Sailing Charters: 800-814-7245, 727-524-1074,
yacht@footloosecharters.com and www.footloosecharters.com
Fun In The Sun Yacht Charters: 800-327-0228,
954-463-7911, charters@funinthesunyachts.com and
www.funinthesunyachts.com
Go Native Yacht Charters: 800-359-9808, 305-534-5522,
sail@gnyc.com and www.gnyc.com
Horizon Yacht Charters Ltd.: 877-494-8787, 284-494-8787,
info@horizonyachtcharters.com and www.horizonyacht
charters.com
International Sailing School: 941-746-6480, sail_info@
intlsailsch.com and www.intlsailsch.com
The Sunsail base in St. Petersburg, Florida, offers
partial-week charters.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
65
Island Yachts: 800-524-2019, 340-775-6666,
sailing@iyc.vi and www.iyc.vi
Kiriacoulis Mediterranean: 800-714-3411, 949-673-2560,
kiriacoulis@mindspring.com and www.kiriacoulis.com
Let’s Go Cruising: 866-538-7464, 410-263-1818,
info@letsgocruising.com and www.letsgocruising.com
Maine Cat: 888-832-2287, 207-529-6500, mecat@gwi.net
and www.mecat.com
The Moorings: 800-535-7289, 727-535-1446,
yacht@moorings.com and www.moorings.com
Nautica Ltd. Sailing School and Charters: 251-510-7245,
nauticaltd@ nauticaltd.com and www. nauticaltd.com
North South Yacht Vacations: 800-387-4964, 905-822-9146,
northsouth@nsyv.com and www.nsyv.com
Pro Valor Charters: 866-776-8256, 284-495-1542,
pvc@provalorcharters.com and www.provalorcharters.com
Sailing Florida with Sunsail: 866-894-7245, 727-894-7245,
dockmstr@sailingflorida.com and www.sailingflorida.com
Sailshare Yacht Charters: 866-724-5742, 305-731-6795,
charters@sailshare.com and www.sailshare.com
Southernmost Sailing Inc.: 305-766-4683, sailing@
southernmostsailing.com and www.southernmostsailing.com
Southwest Florida Yachts: 800-262-7939, 239-656-1339,
swfyachts@aol.com and www.swfyachts.com
St. Petersburg Yacht Charters & Sales Inc.: 727-823-2555,
spycs@tampabay.rr.com and www.stpeteyachtcharters.com
Sunreef Yachts: +33-3-89311474, info@sunreef-yachts.com
and www.sunreef-yachts.com
Sunsail Sailing Vacations: 800-327-2276, 410-280-2553,
sunsailusa@sunsail.com and www.sunsail.com
Tortola Marine Management Ltd.: 800-633-0155, 262-2481618, charter@sailtmm.com and www.sailtmm.com
Treasure Harbor Marine: 800-352-2628, 305-852-2458,
info@treasureharbor.com and www.treasureharbor.com
Tropical Diversions: 800-343-7256, 954-921-9084,
tdyachts@aol.com and www.tropicaldiversions.com
VIP Sail & Power Yacht Charters: 866-847-9224, 340-7761510, charter@vipyachts.com and www.vipyachts.com
Voyage Charters International: 888-869-2436, 410-9561880, info@voyagecharters.com and www.voyagecharters.com
Yachting Vacations Inc.: 800-447-0080, 941-637-6634,
info@yachtingvacations.com and www.yachtingvacations.com
Kathy Gregory
66
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF TM M
TMM’s Belize charters depart from its base in San Pedro,
on Ambergris Cay.
SAFETY
BETH A. LEONARD
Cruising World’s annual review of tips and techniques for safer sailing
68
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
AT SEA
BOATHANDLING
BY BETH A. LEONARD
Time to Put
On the Brakes
In wind and building seas,
there comes a time when
the boat needs reining in
A huge Southern
Ocean wave rears
above Hawk’s
transom, its face
clearly sliced by the
rode of the drogue
being dragged astern.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
S IX DAYS OUT FROM A LBANY, ON THE
southwest corner of Australia, we’ve
put over 1,000 nautical miles behind
us, and we’ve another 300 miles to go
to reach the western coast of Tasmania. We’re well into the Roaring 40s in
the early spring, and 24 hours ago we
got a forecast that a 944-millibar lowpressure system just north of 60 degrees south would bring us 36 to 48
hours of westerly winds of 35 to 45
knots, with gusts to 60 and average
wave heights of 15 to 20 feet. The first
front arrived last night with winds up
to 40 knots. After moderating to 30
knots this morning, the wind had
started to build again before I went
off watch. When my partner, Evans
Starzinger, turned the watch over to
me at midnight, two hours ago, he’d
said, “We’re fine for now. But if the
wind increases above 45 knots or she
starts surfing regularly, get me up and
we’ll set the drogue.”
The bitterly cold wind lashes at
Hawk, our 47-foot Van de Stadt
Samoa sloop, as she races along, and I
hear the whoosh of the frothing crest
of yet another wave rumbling down
upon us. I see the flash of white in the
darkness over Hawk’s stern, and then
I feel her sweep forward as the wave
carries her for a few moments before
leaving her behind. The wind has
edged up a bit and is now bouncing
69
HANDS-ON
SAILOR
We’ve found that Hawk will
remain well under control in
these conditions if we can stop
her from surfing while keeping her speed somewhere between 5 and 7 knots. For that,
we use a speed-limiting
drogue, specifically a Galerider. The whole thing stows
neatly into a flat bag that’s half
the diameter of the rim, and it
lies wedged behind our cabin
heater in the main saloon,
where it’s easily accessible
even if we’re seasick.
70
of the boat to slow it down
without stopping it completely. It can consist of long warps
alone or with tires, chain, sails,
and even anchors attached.
Cruisers today can purchase a
variety of commercially manufactured drogues designed to
exert a consistent amount of
drag while moving through
the water smoothly without
inverting, spinning, or slewing
off in one direction or another.
Drogues fall into two categories: Low-pull or speedlimiting drogues check the
boat’s speed and keep it from
needs to be the right size for
the boat. If the drogue creates
too little drag, it will pull out
of the water completely, suddenly releasing the tension on
the rode and allowing the boat
to accelerate unchecked down
a wave face. If the drogue is
too large and generates too
much drag, it will slow the
boat too much, making it wallow, and it will drag down the
stern, exposing the cockpit
and companionway to the full
force of breaking waves.
While we have a variety of
drag devices aboard, the one
In gale-force conditions
when the seas aren’t breaking, Hawk’s defense of
choice is the Galerider. It
stows in a relatively small
space and is uncomplicated
to deploy. Retrieving it,
though, entails a workout.
speed drops back to 48 knots,
then 45. The wave hisses on
by us, and I sigh with relief.
Hawk surfs again on the next
wave, but I don’t feel that onedge, floaty feeling that means
she might try to round up.
Still, I decide I don’t want to
risk another sleigh ride. I call
down the companionway,
“Evans! I think we’d better set
the drogue.”
A Steadying Influence
We have enough experience
that we don’t consider this situation—storm-force winds
with large but not breaking
seas and plenty of sea room—
a survival storm. But with
only two of us aboard, keeping us both operational is critical to our safety, and that
means not spending hours at
the helm hand steering in
near-freezing temperatures.
With 24 to 36 more hours of
this weather or worse to come,
the boat has to fend for herself, and we’ve just reached the
point at which she can no
longer do that running free.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
BETH A. LEONARD
around between 40 and 45
knots true, with gusts to 50.
Running under just the storm
jib with the wind on her starboard quarter, Hawk remains
under control, averaging 7 or
8 knots with the occasional
surge to 9. It’s not time to do
anything more just yet.
Though I can see almost
nothing of the sea surrounding us, Hawk’s erratic motions
beneath my feet tell me the
waves have built considerably.
I feel her drive forward, accelerating, and even before the
wind instruments register the
change, the sudden frenetic
whining of the checkstays tells
me the wind’s hit 50 knots.
Hawk hunkers down into a
wave and starts to surf, and
white foam flashes above her
toerail as the stern wave rises
up around us. The speedo hits
12 knots and holds as the
anemometer jumps up to 49
knots true, then 52, then back
to 50. As we surf in the crest, I
sense the boat’s motion becoming slip-slidey, verging on
skidding, a feeling that’s like
driving on ice. At this speed,
the autopilot won’t correct
quickly enough if the balance
between wind and wave suddenly shifts. In the next few
seconds, we could be completely out of control.
As I disengage the autopilot
and grab the wheel, the wind
Drogue Mechanics
In broad terms, a drogue is
anything towed from the stern
surfing while maintaining
momentum and steerageway;
medium-pull drogues are designed to slow the boat to a
knot or two and hold the stern
steadily into the wind and
waves. The Galerider, the
Delta Drogue, and the Australian-made Seabrake are examples of speed-limiting
drogues, and the Jordan Series
Drogue and various small
parachute-type drogues (as
distinct from parachute sea
anchors, which are meant to
be set off the bow to stop the
boat completely) are considered medium-pull devices.
A speed-limiting drogue
BETH A. LEONARD
we’ve used the most and with
which we feel the most comfortable is the Galerider. It
consists of a webbing basket
attached to a circular wire rim.
A series of strong nylon lines
on the side of the drogue’s rim
opposite the webbing straps
join at a massive galvanized
swivel to which the rode is attached. Our Galerider is 42
inches in diameter, the size
recommended for boats of
30,000 to 55,000 pounds displacement (Hawk displaces
about 35,000 pounds with a
cruising payload).
In theory, speed-limiting
drogues like the Galerider
should be deployed two waves
back so that when the boat is
on the face of a wave, the
drogue is in the back of the
second wave behind the boat.
This keeps the drogue from
being jerked out of the face of
the wave as the boat accelerates toward the trough. In reality, if it’s deployed more
than one wave behind you in
large seas with spume flying
everywhere, it’s incredibly difficult to tell where exactly the
drogue is. At night, it’s impossible. Also, whenever we’ve
used our Galerider, for periods of several minutes out of
every hour a series of waves
would be twice as high as the
average. Initially, we followed
the manufacturer’s recommendation and deployed the
drogue on 300 feet of nylon
double-braid rode, but in
those periods of larger waves,
the drogue ended up in the
wave directly behind us, and
several times we pulled it right
out of the wave face. At such
times, we’d like to have extended the rode, but we found
we couldn’t easily add a second line with the rode under
load. Most people who’ve used
drogues find that the rode
length initially deployed tends
to be the rode length carried
throughout the storm.
These experiences suggested
that Hawk would be better off
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Aboard Hawk, the Galerider’s
rode is made up of two 300foot warps joined by an
anchor bend, and the tail is
seized to the standing part
for security.
with more rode rather than
less. Before we left on our
springtime Southern Ocean
passage, Evans doubled the
length of the rode by joining
together two of our 300-foot
double-braid nylon lines. He
tied one with an anchor bend
to the thimble eye on the other,
and he seized the tails back to
the rode to be sure the knot
couldn’t slip. We stow these
lines in large mesh bags on the
sole of the forepeak.
In the past, we set the
drogue from the quarter, but
there have been times when
the pull on the quarter confused or even countered the
autopilot, with the result that
we “wiped out” and the stern
got spun by a breaking wave
crest. We therefore decided to
add a bridle to hold the rode
dead off the stern. According
to cruisers we’d interviewed
who recommended this approach, the bridle should be
roughly half again the length
of the boat—about 70 feet in
our case. So Evans attached a
75-foot spare Dacron jib sheet
75 feet from one end of his
600-foot rode using an icicle
hitch. Again, he seized the tail
to the rode for security.
We’ve retrieved our Galerider when winds have dropped
to gale force using our primary winches and found that at
the moments when the
drogue was fully loaded, we
couldn’t turn the winch when
using low gear and all our
strength. That means that in
gale—not storm—conditions, our Galerider generates
steady-state forces in excess of
3,500 pounds. To withstand
these loads requires very
strong attachment points and
totally chafe-free leads. We
run the rode directly to our
The bridle line is attached to
the rode with an icicle hitch,
shown here before the tail
has been seized.
primary winch through an
oversized snatch block shackled to the toerail on Hawk’s
quarter. The only contact the
lines have with the boat is at
the winch and at the snatchblock sheave. Using this
method, we’ve never had any
chafe on the rode when trailing a drogue.
Deploying the Drogue
So both of us can work with
the drogue, we set the autopilot to steer the boat.
Evans pulls out the bitter
end of the rode and the bridle
line from the mesh bag and
leads the bitter end of the
rode through the snatch
block on the starboard quarter and to the primary winch,
pulls through about 10 feet of
line, then secures it to the
winch using a tugboat hitch
(see “The Tenacious Towboat
Hitch,” April 2003). I take the
bridle line through the snatch
block on the port quarter,
pull through 15 feet or so,
then lock the line in the
winch self-tailer. Evans then
flakes the rode down on the
helmsman’s seat in a big fig-
ure eight, ending at a thimble
spliced into the drogue end of
the rode. He shackles this to
the swivel on the drogue,
mouses the shackle with a
wire tie, and double-checks
that everything is secure.
When we agree we’re both
ready, Evans picks up the
Galerider, shakes it out and
holds it open against the wind,
then tosses it into the water.
The line snakes out so fast it’s
a blur. Hawk checks for a second when the drogue bites,
then bounces forward again
before settling down to a relaxed 6 or 7 knots. We then
each ease our ends of the line
in turn until we’re satisfied
that the bridle is centered; we
The drogue’s rode is secured
to a primary winch with a
tugboat hitch.
71
HANDS-ON
SAILOR
WHAT WE’VE LEARNED
W
hile the infrequency of storm-force winds makes it
difficult for voyagers to gain practical experience before setting off across an ocean, many sailors have survived serious storms based on the knowledge they gained reading
other people’s accounts and thinking through how these might
apply to their boat design and the wave and wind characteristics of
a particular storm. Reflecting on the times we’ve used the Galerider
aboard Hawk, we’ve come to several conclusions that may help others to understand the usefulness of a speed-limiting drogue.
■ If your boat will surf in large waves with 25 or 30 knots of wind
on the quarter, then a speed-limiting drogue will help to control
the boat in stronger winds. A boat that won’t surf in these conditions (and many cruising boats won’t) will probably be fine with
just a warp and no drogue. In the only survival storm we’ve ever
been in—in the Gulf Stream aboard our heavy-displacement
Shannon 37, with a modified fin keel—a 120-foot anchor rode
with a 20-foot length of chain on the end trailed off the quarter
proved sufficient to steady her and keep her stern oriented to the
largest waves. Hawk, with her fin keel, spade rudder, and flat sections, surfs easily. While a warp without the drogue will keep her
stern oriented to the waves when the wind has dropped but the
seas are still large and confused—often the most dangerous part
of a storm—it won’t keep her from surfing in storm conditions.
■ To keep steerage way and good control with a speed-limiting
drogue, most boats will want to run at 3 to 7 knots. We find Hawk
to be most comfortable at the higher speeds. Smaller or heavier
boats will probably be more comfortable at slower speeds. If the
boat wallows and loses steerage way in the troughs, you’re going
too slow. If it surfs more than occasionally, you’re going too fast.
■ A drogue requires sufficiently strong attachment points and a
chafe-free lead for the rode. The stern cleats on many production
boats won’t be up to the task. A better arrangement is to mount
on each quarter a padeye that’s though-bolted and has a large,
stainless-steel backing plate.
■ You must determine whether your boat tracks better dead
downwind or quartering the seas. Hawk definitely prefers to run
off square to the seas in these conditions, and she also seemed
safer running dead downwind the one time we had to hand steer
her through breaking waves. This may be a function of her fin
keel and spade rudder, which give her less lateral resistance to
being “spun out” by a quartering breaking crest.
■ In any storm situation, keep trying things until the boat feels
right. We’ve always been able to tell when the boat’s not coping.
Solid-water hits that shake the whole boat or the kind of on-theedge feeling in which the helm goes soft in your hand both indicate
that you need to try some other storm tactic.
B.A.L.
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70 of the October 2005 issue.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
secure both ends with tugboat
hitches. When we look aft at
nighttime, we can’t see anything beyond the bridle.
There’s no way to know how
far back the drogue is or
whether it’s in the right part of
the wave.
The drogue’s effect, however, is immediate. It restrains
Hawk from surfing and holds
her straight on to the seas so
the autopilot no longer struggles to keep up with her erratic motions. It’s like she’s suddenly held in place by a spring
that stretches when a wave
grabs her but stops her before
she can surf. Our boat speed
steadies between 6 and 7 knots,
with the occasional bounce up
to 8 knots. After going to the
longer rode and the bridle, we
noticed that we had a much
softer ride than we’d had when
using the Galerider on the
shorter rode and with no bri-
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
dle; the autopilot also now had
an easier time keeping us
tracking dead downwind.
We check at least hourly
that the lines aren’t chafing
and that they’re still securely
attached to the winches.
Retrieving the Drogue
Hauling back the drogue
takes a huge amount of sustained physical effort. Using
our primary winch and working in shifts of 20 to 30 minutes each, we’ve taken over
two hours to winch in the 300foot rode. After we doubled its
length, Evans set up a series of
snatch blocks to lead the rode
up the side deck to our electric
anchor windlass. First we take
turns winching in the rode
until we can reach the icicle
hitch attaching the bridle line.
We leave the rode on the primary winch. While Evans removes the bridle, I lead the
bitter end of the rode forward
through the snatch blocks to
the windlass and sit on deck
where I can tail the rode with
my hands while using my foot
to press the windlass button.
We wait for the pressure to
come off the rode as a wave
surges up to our stern, Evans
pulls the wraps off the primary winch, then I take up the
slack on the windlass. The
windlass reels in the line with
little effort, stalling only when
the rode is fully loaded. From
the cockpit, Evans watches the
rode to ensure it doesn’t chafe
anywhere along the run from
stern to bow.
When the knot holding the
two warps together reaches
the snatch block at the stern,
we wrestle the snatch block
open, and then I use the windlass to pull the knot beyond
the primary winch.
The first time we did this,
rather than try to work the
knot down the deck through
all the snatch blocks, we decided to transfer the rode back
to the primary winch and finish up the job with that. Using
the windlass, it took about 20
minutes to retrieve the first
300 feet of rode; it took us an
hour and a half to get in the
second 300 feet. We had to
wait until there was slack in
the line, then grind as fast as
we could before the full force
of the drogue came back on
the winch. Progress was agonizingly slow, but eventually
Evans reached down with a
boat hook and grabbed the
rim of the drogue, and we
were done.
Beth A. Leonard will make a
speaking tour of New England
this winter while Evans Starzinger
starts a 50,000-mile refit of Hawk
in British Columbia.
73
SAFETY
AT SEA
SEAMANSHIP
BY BETH A. LEONARD
Sailing in Slow Motion
AFTER SEVERAL YEARS OF PREPAration, Bob and Jacquie
Donovan had just embarked
on the cruising life. In a conversation that my partner,
Evans Starzinger, and I had
with them about storm tactics, they said they’d like to
learn how to heave to on
Isalei-Rua, their Bob Perrydesigned 39-foot cutter. We
offered to help them.
One windy day, we headed
out into open water to see
how the boat behaved. With
her cutaway forefoot, modified fin keel, and skeg-hung
rudder, we expected she
would respond like Bob
Perry’s Valiant 40 and heave
to quite easily.
Under the mainsail with a
single reef and the motor,
74
Isalei-Rua made between 4
and 5 knots closehauled into
25 knots of breeze, bounding
over the white-crested waves
in King George Sound, the
large outer harbor of the small
city of Albany, located at the
southwest corner of Australia.
I found the hum of the wind
in the rigging and the occasional rush of water down the
decks exhilarating, but I didn’t
think her owners felt the same.
Bob’s hands looked relaxed
enough on the wheel, but he
wasn’t smiling. The muscles in
Jacquie’s jaw were tight, and
her hand was white-knuckled
on the binnacle.
Five miles out from the harbor entrance, Evans asked Bob
to throttle back and cut the
engine. The boat slowed gradually, Bob kept the helm centered, and after a few minutes
Isalei-Rua ended up at a 45degree angle to the wind,
moving forward under the
reefed mainsail at between 1
and 2 knots. She’d gradually
come up to the wind until the
mainsail stalled and started to
luff, bringing her almost to a
halt; then she’d fall off 10 or
15 degrees and start sailing
again. As she built up speed to
about 2 knots, she’d work back
up into the wind until the
mainsail stalled again. And so
she jogged slowly along, weaving back and forth.
As the boat lost speed, waves
stopped washing down the
decks and spray stopped flying over the coachroof. Everything became quieter and
calmer, and the motion became easy and slow. Jacquie’s
grip on the binnacle relaxed,
and Bob smiled. “Right now,
we’re forereaching,” Evans
said. “We’re jogging along to
windward, not making much
forward progress, but not
going sideways either. You can
see we still have a small wake
behind the boat. Now let’s try
heaving to.”
We raised the staysail. It
completely filled the inner
foretriangle, and with it sheeted in, Isalei-Rua dropped her
shoulder and took off like a
freight train, driving through
the waves and then crashing
down with a shudder. “OK,” I
said. “Turn her through the
wind, but don’t release the
staysail sheet.” Bob spun the
wheel, and Isalei-Rua checked
and started to come up into
the wind. The tightly sheeted
When conditions are rugged
but not threatening and you
want to make some distance
to windward in reasonable
comfort, forereaching under
reduced sail is the ticket.
main luffed, then filled on the
other side. The staysail tried to
follow, but restrained by the
sheet, it shivered, then set
aback. As Bob centered the
wheel, Isalei-Rua coasted
slowly to a stop, her head
about 45 degrees off the wind,
her angle of heel reduced from
more than 30 degrees to about
15. Evans played with the
wheel, eventually locking it off
about a quarter of a turn to
windward. Though the boat
still took the seas on her starboard bow, the GPS showed
us slipping through the water
at almost a 90-degree angle to
the wind.
All of the noises that accompany a boat sailing to
windward in a stiff breeze
died away, and Isalei-Rua sat
gently and rode the waves like
a contented gull. As when we
were forereaching, the boat
jogged up until the mainsail
stalled, then fell off. But the
backed staysail prevented her
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
B ETH A. LEONARD
Whether employed
so you can ride out a
blow or simply take a
breather, heaving to
and forereaching are
handy techniques for
cruising sailors
from gaining any forward momentum. The wind carved
spume-flecked furrows in the
wave tops, but these ended—
along with the waves—at a
patch of smooth water that
extended about 10 feet to
windward of the boat. I pointed this out to Bob and Jacquie.
“That’s the slick,” I said. “See,
it’s sort of a wake, created by
the drift of the boat to leeward. That’s how you know
you’re really hove to.”
Adjusting the Ride
Isalei-Rua lay quietly, drifting slowly to leeward. But
our way up to the sidedeck to
drop the staysail. Despite the
wind, which was whipping
the 4-foot waves into a froth,
the motion was gentle, the
decks were dry, and moving
around the boat took almost
no effort.
“We often heave to just to
perform a headsail change,” I
said. “It keeps the foredeck
person dry, and it makes it
much less likely that someone will go overboard.”
Jacquie released the halyard
at the mast while I crouched
behind the staysail stay. The
backed sail fell to the deck in a
storm at sea,” Evans said. “In
stronger winds, you’d probably need to take another reef
in the main to balance out the
sail plan.”
It would take a lot more
practice in a variety of conditions before Bob and Jacquie
would know instinctively
how to heave to on IsaleiRua. But as we flew from
wave to wave in bright sunshine on the way back to the
harbor, I could tell that they’d
gained a good deal of confidence in the boat and themselves in one short outing.
They’d also learned a couple
ered a var iation on the
theme for boats that have
modern underbodies.
Forereaching
As well as being a way to
slow things down, forereaching is a perfectly acceptable
storm tactic so long as the
waves aren’t breaking. On
Hawk, our 47-foot aluminum
sloop, we’ve forereached in
the Southern Ocean under a
deeply reefed main into very
large but well-spaced and not
breaking seas for 36 hours in
winds gusting over 50 knots.
The few times we’ve been in
FOREREACHING
When forereaching,
as here under a
reefed mainsail, a
boat weaves its way
gently to windward.
HEAVING TO
JOSEPH COMEAU
When hove to, a sailboat
makes no forward
progress but drifts more
or less dead downwind.
Evans wasn’t satisfied. “That
sheet lead’s a problem,” he
said, pointing to the staysail
sheet. The staysail was cut so it
couldn’t be sheeted inboard of
the shrouds and lifelines, so
when the sail was backed, the
sheet ran across both. “It
wouldn’t matter for an hour
or so, but if you heave to
overnight, it will chafe
through,” Evans said. “Let’s try
your storm jib.”
Jacquie was at first hesitant
to leave the cockpit, but she
joined me and we worked
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
tidy pile, and even in the
strong wind, I had no problem flaking it neatly. Jacquie
helped me get the sail in its
bag. Then I hanked on the
storm jib. Evans and Bob led
the sheets inboard of the stays,
and we tied them to the clew.
Once we’d raised the sail,
Evans trimmed the windward
sheet until the jib was backed
just as the staysail had been.
The sheet led cleanly without
chafing on anything. “This is
the sail you’d really want to
use if you were heaving to in a
of tricks for making life
aboard more comfortable in
good weather as well as bad.
Heav ing to is an indispensable storm tactic, but
it’s also an easy way to slow
everything down and allow
the crew to enjoy a quiet picnic lunch on a summer afternoon a few miles from
shore, make a repair while
on passage, take a time-out
to look over an unfamiliar
harbor entrance, or talk over
a boathandling decision.
Forereaching can be consid-
breaking seas, we’ve always
switched to another tactic (see
“Breaking Waves,” page 77).
Most boats forereach quite
comfortably under mainsail
alone, and you can generally
forereach on one less reef than
you would use for sailing in
the given conditions. To set
your boat forereaching, sheet
the main to the centerline and
lock the helm amidships as a
start to see what happens.
If the boat falls off to a
broad angle and just keeps
sailing, you need to turn the
75
SAFETY
AT SEA
wheel more to windward. If
the boat gets in irons or tacks
through, you need to turn the
wheel a bit to leeward. You’re
forereaching when the boat
jogs up to windward, the sail
starts to stall, then the boat
falls off to leeward and starts
sailing again. When forereaching, you don’t need to worry
nearly as much about leeway
as when heaving to.
Heaving To
To heave to, set the sails and
the rudder so they oppose one
another and the boat stops
making headway. In the textbook case, the boat will ride
with the wind and waves 40 to
60 degrees off its bow and slide
slowly to leeward while leaving
a slick to windward. As when
forereaching, the boat will
tend to jog up to windward,
fall off, then jog up again,
making little headway and a
76
fair amount of leeway.
Exactly how much time the
boat spends making headway
versus leeway depends upon
a host of factors, including
the hull configuration, the
rig, the combination of sails,
and the size and shape of the
waves. A traditional fullkeeled boat will normally
make a knot of leeway and almost no headway; modified
fin-keel boats with skeg-hung
rudders may make up to 2
knots of leeway. Most finkeeled boats will continue to
make headway, so they aren’t
technically hove to. Instead,
they’ll forereach, making a
knot or 2 of headway and less
than a knot of leeway.
Different boats require different sail combinations and
rudder angles to achieve a
hove-to position, and the
same boat will require different amounts of sail and rud-
der angle to heave to in different wind strengths and wave
conditions. In gale-force
winds, many heavy-displacement cutters and sloops with
traditional underbodies will
heave to under a single- or
double-reefed main sheeted
in to the centerline and a
backed headsail sized to between two-thirds and threequarters of the foretriangle,
with the helm lashed within a
quarter turn of the centerline.
In storm-force winds, many
traditional boats will heave to
under just a storm trysail with
no headsail at all.
Our first boat, Silk, a Shannon 37 ketch, had a centerboard in a modified fin keel
and a skeg-hung rudder. Like
most ketches with full-sized
mizzens and traditional underbodies, she hove to under
mizzen alone without a
backed headsail. We used the
full mizzen in gale-force
winds, and we put in a reef at
around 40 knots, depending
upon the sea state. With the
helm locked on the centerline, we’d adjust the mizzen
sheet so the boat sat 45 to 50
degrees to the wind. We’d
then fix the mizzen boom in
position with a vang from
the end of the boom to a
stanchion base. Silk would
drift at about a knot and a
half at a right angle to the
wind. Yawls and ketches with
small mizzens lack the sail
area aft to keep them up into
the wind in all but the most
extreme conditions. They
heave to best if treated like
cutters or sloops.
Try for Yourself
To experiment with heaving
to on your own boat, go out on
a day when the wind is blowing
at least 25 knots. Reef the main
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
BREAKING WAVES
W
aves, not wind, cause the most damage to boats
during storms at sea. But there’s a big difference
between normal ocean waves, even very large ones,
and what are called breaking waves. Waves with whitecaps or
with cresting foam and whitewater on top aren’t breaking
waves, and they don’t generally constitute a danger to a wellfound boat. Breaking waves normally develop only when something opposes the movement of the wind-driven waves. Both a
strong ocean current, such as the Gulf Stream or the Agulhas
Current, running counter to the prevailing waves and shoaling
water along the edge of a continental shelf can cause stormdriven waves to rise up like combers running onto a beach. As
a wave gets higher and steeper, its crest becomes unstable and
begins to collapse down its face, just as happens when surf
breaks in shoal water. People who have experienced them have
described such breaking waves as avalanches of water.
To get some idea of the magnitude of the forces in play, con-
sider that a cubic yard of water weighs over a ton. Several hundred tons of water may be tumbling down the collapsing front
of a breaking wave, moving at speeds of up to 30 knots. Most
classic instances of boats being pitchpoled or rolled—such as
the case of the Smeetons, who were pitchpoled in Tzu Hang
on their first attempt to round Cape Horn—are generally
attributed to breaking waves.
Mercifully, such waves are rare. Unmistakable when experienced, they won’t easily be confused with large, regular, cresting
seas. In our 75,000 nautical miles of ocean sailing, we’ve been
in breaking waves on only two occasions, both of which were
avoidable. Experts disagree on what tactics will best protect the
boat in these conditions. We twice chose to run off towing a
drogue. Some very experienced sailors argue that the slick created by heaving to will cause the waves to break before they reach
the boat. While we might consider heaving to in a boat that did
this well, we’d never choose to forereach into breaking waves.
B.A.L.
so the boat is comfortable in
the conditions, then size the jib
to between 80 and 100 percent
of the foretriangle. Turn the
boat through the wind, but
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
don’t release the jib sheet. Play
the rudder, and lock it where it
holds the boat’s head 40 to 60
degrees off the apparent wind.
If necessary, adjust the size of
the sails. Too little sail overall
will prevent you from getting
the boat’s head up even with
the helm hard to windward;
too much headsail will cause
the boat to fall off beam to the
wind in lulls; too much mainsail will bring the boat too
close to the wind or even allow
it to tack through in gusts.
77
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When the boat has settled down, check
the wake to see if you’re making any headway or only leeway; use a GPS to determine the actual direction of drift. Adjust
the sails and rudder again to see if you can
stop all forward motion and make only
leeway. If you can do that, you’ll be properly hove to; if the wind is strong enough,
you should be able to see the slick to
windward. Many experienced openocean sailors believe the slick protects the
boat in extreme conditions with large
breaking waves or cross seas by forcing the
seas to break before they reach the boat.
On a fin-keel racing boat with a spade
rudder, you may be able to only slow the
boat down so that you’re forereaching at a
couple of knots. Full-keeled, heavy-displacement boats stall out 40 degrees off
the wind, giving them an 80-degree window within which they’ll make no headway. But Hawk, with her fin keel and
spade rudder, still has some forward momentum as close as 20 degrees to the apparent wind, so the window within which
we can heave to is much smaller. A slight
change in wind angle or a wave that
knocks her bow off will have Hawk sailing again. Friends of ours on racier cruising boats have had the same experience. If
they do manage to get the boat to stop,
the situation isn’t stable, and they have to
monitor it constantly.
Because a boat makes leeway while
hove to, you do need sea room—a couple of hundred feet if you’re just stopping for a few minutes to take stock, a
couple of miles if you’re enjoying lunch
with a glass of wine. Offshore in gale
conditions, you need a lot more room—
most boats will drift between 20 and 50
miles to leeward every 24 hours.
chafe isn’t normally a problem.
Making the Choice
Forereaching allows you to continue
to make slow miles toward a destination
that’s to windward without beating up
the boat or yourself, but it doesn’t reduce the boat’s motion as much as heaving to. If you’re in extreme conditions, if
you’re trying to stop the boat complete-
ly, or if you need a stable platform to
make a meal or fix something on deck,
heaving to will be the better tactic. But if
you’re just trying to slow the boat and
can’t afford to make any leeway, forereaching makes more sense.
Beth A. Leonard and Evans St arzinger
recently arrived in British Columbia with
Hawk after crossing the Pacific Ocean.
Look for Wear and Tear
If your headsail sheets outside your
shrouds, or if you have a staysail stay, the
sheet or the sail will likely chafe on something. While this isn’t a problem for an
hour or so, you’ll need to experiment
with ways to eliminate the chafe against
the day when you have to heave to at sea
for a long period. The easiest solution is
to use a staysail or storm jib of such a size
that it’ll sheet inside the lifelines and
shrouds. Other solutions include rigging
a short sheet from the clew inboard to the
sheet winches or using a snatchblock to
hold the sheet off the lifeline or shrouds.
When forereaching under just a
reefed mainsail without a headsail,
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
79
SAFETY
AT SEA
VOYAGING BY HAL ROTH
Offshore sailors have
benefited from an
engineer’s response
to a disaster at sea
BY FAR THE BEST WAY TO MANAGE
storms at sea is to avoid them,
which you can do by carefully
picking the waters you sail in
and by choosing to pay your
visit in the more benign seasons. There are times, though,
when you have to prepare for
heavy weather, and you should
always have equipment on
board for dealing with extreme conditions.
During the 1970-71 Antarctic circumnavigation by the
53-foot cutter Awahnee, Bob
Griffith and his crew lay to a
sea anchor or stern drogue
time after time. Awahnee’s
strong crew of six, however,
used a sea anchor that few
yachts would be able to produce or manage. “We hove to
with the stern into the wind
and swell, held by a sea anchor
consisting of about 300 feet of
line with half a dozen car tires
and a small anchor on the
end,” wrote crewmember Pat
Treston in the New Zealand
magazine Sea Spray.
During several giant
Antarctic storms, the crew of
Awahnee set as many as three
80
drogues—one consisting of
80 feet of 7/16-inch chain, a
second of two or three car
tires on 200 feet of line, and a
third of 600 feet of line with
an anchor and a tire on the
end.“However, we had to steer
all the time to try to keep the
quarter to the wind and
waves,” wrote Treston. Broken
water flew everywhere, and
there was some damage, but
the boat and crew came
through unharmed. I marvel
at the success of the voyage
and the cheerful, heroic crew,
but I shudder at the work involved. The use of a more
modern drogue would certainly have been easier.
My wife, Margaret, and I
have run north along the Oregon coast before a Force 10
wind from the southeast in
our 35-foot Whisper. To slow
the boat and keep her under
control, we put out two 175foot lines with tires and lead
weights chained to the ends of
the warps. This arrangement
worked, but dealing with the
tires, weights, and chains was
awkward while the boat was
rolling heavily. Sometimes
waves picked up the drags and
carried them forward, which
made their value doubtful.
To tame a boat in moderate
storms, a better scheme than
towing tires is to use a Galerider drogue (see “Time to Put
On the Brakes,” page 68). The
Galerider is much easier to set,
recover, and store than tires,
The Jordan Series Drogue,
made up of scores of fabric
cones sewn along a warp,
was inspired by the carnage
of the 1979 Fastnet Race.
weights, and lengths of chain.
But even the Galerider has its
limitations, especially if breaking waves are a possibility.
That’s when I’d turn to a nextgeneration device.
In the 12 years since the
capsize of my Santa Cruz 50 in
This Jordan Series Drogue
(right), manufactured by Ace
Sailmakers, is intended for a
sailboat displacing about
20,000 pounds. Flaked and
bundled for stowage (below),
it’s surprisingly compact.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
COU RTESY OF JOR DAN SER IES DROGU E (TOP), AARON NOR R IS
A Drogue Above the Rest
TOWING THE JORDAN SERIES DROGUE
JOSE PH COM EAU
In use, the Jordan Series
Drogue is towed from a
bridle to ensure that it keeps
the boat’s stern to the waves.
the Southern Ocean, I’ve had
plenty of time to reflect on the
mishap. I believe that protection from monstrous seas
translates directly into keeping the bow or the stern headed into the waves. Getting
broadside on, or even close to
broadside on, is no good because the vessel may be rolled
over or picked up and
dropped on the unyielding
sea. But how do you do this?
Streaming a large parachute
sea anchor from the bow in
upset seas and winds of 40
knots and over is a hazardous
business. Even when the device is successfully launched,
the result is that our modern
yachts lie close to being broadside to the waves.
In 2001, I learned about the
work done by Donald Jordan,
a retired aeronautical engineer and former senior instructor at the Massachusetts
Institute of Technology. In
1979, Jordan was appalled
when he learned about the
disastrous Fastnet race during
which a Force 10 summer
storm struck the fleet as it
crossed the Irish Sea between
England and Ireland. Many of
the 2,700 men and women in
the 303 yachts in the race suffered serious injuries. Boats
were rolled over, destroyed,
and sunk in waves that were
said to be as high as 50 feet.
Fifteen people died.
Jordan decided to apply his
Bridle length
should be 2.5
times the
width of the
attachment
points.
engineering skills to seek a way
to prevent such catastrophes.
By 1982, he’d arranged with
the U.S. Coast Guard to use its
test facilities, towing tanks,
and powerboats to make a
study of capsizes caused by
breaking waves. The joint goal
of Jordan and the Coast Guard
was to increase safety at sea by
preventing capsizes and damage to sailboats going offshore.
Most sailboat owners who
venture offshore have read the
works of Hiscock, Knox-Johnston, Moitessier, Slocum, and
the Smeetons—people who’ve
been out there—and are familiar with their hesitant advice
about handling big storms.
During the last few years,
we’ve heard much about parachute sea anchors. The problem with these devices is that
the people who stress their
beneficial qualities also sell
them. At what point, I’ve wondered, does favorable information turn into a sales pitch?
How do you separate truth
from hype?
What offshore sailors need
is unbiased information from
scientists, engineers, naval architects, and voyagers with
hands-on experience.
The number of offshore
sailors is too insignificant to
have a membership organization capable of undertaking
technical studies. So I welcome the work of the U.S.
Coast Guard and qualified individuals concerned about
offshore-sailing safety.
Jordan began his work by
investigating the nature of
breaking waves and the odds
of survival for small sailboats
from 25 feet in length (which
have a high risk of capsize, he
says) up to large vessels 60 feet
in length (with a low risk of
capsize). Jordan analyzed by
computer the performance of
1/10th-scale model sailboats
with and without drogues (at
the stern) and sea anchors (at
the bow) in towing tanks and
in natural waterways.
Jordan wasn’t satisfied with
the performance or strength
of traditional stern drogues,
so he developed what he calls
a series drogue. This is a long,
double-braid nylon line with
100 or more 5-inch sailcloth
cones spaced along its length
and securely sewn to it. The
Jordan Series Drogue is
streamed from a bridle at the
stern. So it will sink, the line is
weighted at the end with a 15to 30-pound length of chain
or an anchor.
When the series drogue is
deployed, it hangs down behind the yacht because of the
weight at the end. The cones
then open and create immediate and substantial drag. The
number of cones fixed along
the line is based on the yacht’s
displacement and is chosen to
provide the correct drag (see
“Jordan Series Drogue Application Table,” below). Too little drag and the yacht won’t be
slowed enough to resist a possible capsize from a breaking
wave. Too many cones and the
vessel will be held too rigidly
and something could break.
According to Jordan, the design load should be one-half
the displacement of the yacht.
This represents a once-in-alifetime ultimate load. In an
ordinary storm, the peak load
is only 10 to 15 percent of the
design load.
“In general, I designed the
drogue to provide a peak force
of 50 percent to 60 percent of
the displacement of the vessel
when the boat is struck by a
worst-case breaking wave,”
says Jordan. “As a comparison,
JORDAN SERIES DROGUE APPLICATION TABLE
Displacement (lb. x 1,000)
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
Number of cones
100
107
116
124
132
139
147
156
164
Length of line (feet)
242
254
269
282
295
307
320
335
349
Diameter of nylon braid (inches)
5/8
5/8
3/4*
3/4*
3/4*
3/4*
7/8*
7/8*
7/8*
15
15
15
15
25
25
25
30
30
Sinker weight (lb.)
* The line may be tapered.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
H.R.
81
SAFETY
AT SEA
a large parachute sea anchor
that’s deployed from the bow
will develop a drag more than
30 times as much as the series
drogue at the same speed. In
truth, a large parachute is the
practical equivalent of being
anchored to the bottom. Either the towline will break or
the hull attachments will be
torn from the boat long before
such a load is reached.”
When using a series drogue,
the length of the V-bridle
streaming behind the boat
should measure 2.5 times the
distance between the two attachments at the upper corners of the transom. This ensures that with a straight pull,
the load in each bridle arm
will not exceed 52 percent of
the total load. For instance, on
my current 35-footer, the
transom width is 7 feet, so the
V-bridle should be 17.5 feet
long. The bridle streaming be-
hind the vessel provides a
turning moment to keep the
boat’s stern to the waves.
What this means in the real
world is that no steering is
necessary. The crew can go
below, where, out of the
storm and cold, their wellbeing and ability to survive
are much enhanced.
During the development of
the Jordan Series Drogue, the
Coast Guard tested the device
on motor lifeboats in breaking-sea conditions at the
mouth of the Columbia River
in Oregon, one of the most
hazardous places on Earth.
Another test subjected a batch
of the sailcloth cones to 15,000
openings and closings—all
the cones came through it in
good condition.
The Jordan engineering reports are long and complicated. Here’s my take on the essential points as they apply to
offshore sailors in monohull
sailboats. Some of the conclusions are surprising.
The number of small boats
that go to sea has increased
dramatically. When caught in
a storm, most sailors choose
to lie ahull or run off. Few
sailors carry drogues.
A capsize caused by a breaking wave is rare. A sailor can
go through a lifetime of ocean
sailing without being involved
in such a mishap.
Wind doesn’t cause capsizes. Breaking seas do.
In tests in breaking waves,
all models without a drogue
capsized. When struck abeam,
the models capsized violently
and rolled 360 degrees. When
struck on the quarter, the
models sometimes pitchpoled.
In a major storm, all singleelement drogues will ride on
the surface and may be thrown
toward the boat by a breaking
wave. There are instances of a
drogue being thrown ahead of
the boat.
If a drogue is used, it should
be deployed from the stern
rather than from the bow.
With a drogue from the stern,
a sailboat will lie stern to the
wind and sea. With the same
drogue (or sea anchor) set
forward, the bow of a modern
monohull sailboat will turn
away from the wind, often up
to 70 degrees.
The tests clearly show that a
drogue deployed from the
stern can hold a boat into a
breaking-wave crest and prevent capsizing. Use of a drogue
improves the motion of a sailboat in a storm and reduces
leeward drift.
In a great storm, the crew
may be exhausted and confused. If the drogue and lines
aren’t ready, the chance to ride
through a breaking wave may
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82
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
be lost. The drogue should be
on hand and ready so that one
person can deploy it quickly
and safely, day or night.
■ Boat-design changes don’t
affect capsizing. Models of
typical sailboats from the
1920s, 1930s, and 1980s
showed no difference in capsize tests.
■ A boat lying ahull or sideways in non-breaking seas
moves more or less with the
surface water and won’t capsize. However, if a breaking
wave strikes the boat, it will
likely capsize violently.
■ Two or more storm waves
may combine to form a larger
wave that may become a dangerous breaking wave.
■ The drogue should be attached to the boat with a Vbridle whose lines are shackled
to stout chainplates or other
special attachment points at
the corners of the transom. All
the drogue lines should be
spliced around high-load cast
thimbles and not tied, for example, with bowlines. Running a bridle line through a
chock and belaying it to a
mooring cleat may not be adequate and can lead to fitting
overload, chafe, and failure.
■ During a breaking-wave
strike, a drogue puts significant loads on the hull. According to Jordan, the attachments
at each corner of the transom
should be built to take 70 percent of the design load. For a
total drogue design load of
15,000 pounds, each bridle leg
and attachment should be capable of carrying 10,500
pounds, a number reached
possibly once or twice during
the life of the equipment.
■ When the boat is aligned to
a wave, the load on each leg of
the bridle is 50 percent of the
total. But in a wave strike, the
vessel is usually a bit to one
side or the other, and much of
the load is on one bridle leg.
The load isn’t applied instantly but builds up at a finite rate,
and as it increases, the boat
yaws to reduce the angle.
Computer analysis shows that
the load on a single bridle leg
can reach 70 percent of the
maximum load before the
other leg kicks in and begins
to share it.
Ensuring the
Boat’s Integrity
In 1991, Gary Danielson of
St. Clair Shores, Michigan,
sailed a lightweight Ericson
25-footer named Moon Boots
from the United States to Europe and back. He had good
crossings, and he used both a
Galerider drogue and a Jordan
Series Drogue a few times during Force 8 weather. To simply
slow the boat down, Gary used
the Galerider. But when he
wanted to hold his position, he
employed a Jordan Series
Drogue. It worked well, but
when the boat crested a wave,
the large and heavy sliding
companionway hatch slid
open because the inside locking hardware was broken. Each
time the hatch was slammed
open, 30 to 50 gallons of water
poured into the cabin.
According to Jordan, Gary’s
hatch wasn’t washed open by
the waves but slid forward because the drogue decelerated
the boat as it passed over a
crest. With a functioning latch,
he’d have had no problem.
“For small, light boats, the
peak load occurs when the
boat is airborne from a wave
strike. The drogue catches and
decelerates the vessel,” says
Jordan.“For large, heavy boats,
the peak load occurs when the
boat is surfing down the face
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C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
83
SAFETY
AT SEA
of a breaker. The drogue prevents the yacht from crashing
into the trough.”
To withstand impacts from
following seas, a boat needs a
strong cockpit (preferably
small and with unobstructed, large-diameter drains), a
stout companionway, and
sliding hatch. The washboards and hatch must be securely fastened and have a
locking arrangement because
they may be swept by occasional waves. During boarding seas, however, the boat is
usually accelerated up to
wave speed, and the velocity
of the breaking crest isn’t
high relative to the boat. Jordan says that he knows of no
instances of damage to the
rudder, cockpit, or companionway of a sailboat using his
series drogue.
I like the concept of the
Jordan Series Drogue be-
84
cause this clever drag device
aligns the boat to the storm.
The series drogue keeps the
stern facing large and small
waves and prevents excessive
stress on the rudder and its
fastenings. The series drogue
is easier and safer to use than
a parachute and aligns the
boat at close to a right angle
to oncoming seas.
With more development, it
may be possible to use flat
nylon or other high-tech tape
in place of the present doublebraid nylon line. This would
make the drogue easier to roll
in and out and stow, and it
might simplify the cones and
their attachment. While nothing is perfect on the ocean, I
believe the series drogue is the
best defense against a large
breaking sea.
When I visited Don Jordan
at his home in Connecticut in
2003, he spoke at length about
storm controls. It’s worth noting that while Jordan developed the series drogue, he
doesn’t manufacture or sell
them. Instead, he’s made the
specifications readily available for use by sailmakers and
do-it-yourselfers.
“Drogues like the Galerider,
while they help stabilize the
boat in a moderate storm, develop drag that’s entirely inadequate in a breaking-wave
strike,” he said.“Such things as
hawsers, tires, sails, nets, and
the like are primitive and develop far too little drag.
“The series drogue has been
used at sea for about 12 years,”
said Jordan. “Today there are
at least 1,000 that I know of
aboard yachts all over the
world. Many skippers have
made their own, a tedious but
not difficult job. If you purchase a ready-made series
drogue from a sailmaker, it
will cost about $1,000 for a
40-footer.
“The series drogue has been
deployed in many storms and
in at least two hurricanes,”
says Jordan. “As far as I know,
its record has been flawless.
No boat has suffered any
damage, no crewman has
been injured, and the drogues
have been retrieved in likenew condition.
“When the weather gets to
the point at which progress is
impossible, the crew can deploy the drogue and retire to
the protection of the cabin.
The boat rides easily with
only modest yaw and with a
drift rate of 1.5 knots per
hour or so. The drogue loads
are low, about 15 percent of
the design load, which is approached only in the rare
event of a breaking-wave
strike. If this happens, the
drogue is designed to align
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
the boat into the wave, decelerate the vessel, and hold it
while the breaking crest
crashes onward.
“The easiest way to retrieve
the series drogue is to use two
helper lines about 8 feet long.
Hitch the first line to the
drogue at the transom and lead
it to a winch. Then repeat the
process with the second line,
and so on. The boat, held by
the stern, lies quietly.
“I’m an aeronautical engineer,” said Jordan. “I view the
drogue in the same way I view
the ejection seat on a fighter
aircraft: You pull the handle
and sit back until it’s all over.”
Hal Roth’s latest book, Trilogy,
published last fall by Interna-
RIGS FOR RIDING THE STORM
For scary bathroom reading, you can’t do better
than Drag Device Data Base by Victor Shane (4th ed.;
$37; Para-Anchors International, 805-966-0782,
www.dddb.com). It contains “over 120 documented
case histories” from skippers of boats of all kinds
who’ve used sea anchors or drogues in earnest and
survived to tell their tales. When you’ve decided on
your storm-defense tactics, here are some resources.
PARA-ANCHORS
Coppins Sea Anchors: +64-3-528-7296,
www.paraseaanchor.com
Fiorentino Para-Anchors: 949-631-2336,
www.para-anchor.com
Ocean Safety: +44-23-8072-0800,
www.oceansafety.com
Para-Anchors Australia: +61-3-5144-1244,
www.paraanchors.com.au
Para-Anchors International: 805-966-0782,
www.dddb.com
Para-Tech Engineering Co.: 970-876-0558,
www.seaanchor.com
tional Marine, is a combined
and updated version of three of
DROGUES
his earlier books, Two on a Big
Ace Sailmakers (Jordan Series Drogue):
860-443-5556, www.acesails.com
Coppins Sea Anchors (Sea Claw): see above
O c e a n , Tw o A g a i n s t C a p e
Horn, and The Longest Race.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Fiorentino Para-Anchors: see above
Hathaway, Reiser & Raymond (Galerider):
203-324-9581, www.hathaways.com
Ocean Safety (Para Drogue): see above
Para-Tech Engineering Co. (Delta Drogue):
see above
Sailrite (kits for Jordan Series Drogue): 260-6932242, www.sailrite.com
Seabrake International: +61-2-6282-5474,
www.seabrake.com
HARDWARE
Cast stainless-steel thimbles, recommended
for tow lines, and other hardware are available
from Bosun Supplies Inc. (410-431-7001,
www.bosunsupplies.com).
FREE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY
There are no patents or proprietary fees connected with the series drogue. Jordan has no financial
interest in it. Any sailmaker can make one.
Information on Jordan Series Drogue specifications can be found in U.S. Coast Guard report
CG-D-20-87, available from National Technical
Information Service, Springfield, VA 22161. View
it at the Sailrite website (www.sailrite.com/drogue
report.htm) or download it as a PDF at the Ace
Jeremy McGeary
Sailmakers website.
85
SAFETY
AT SEA
OFFSHORE SAILING BY ASHLEY BUTLER
A Trip South Goes
Down with the Para-chute
Wind and waves
make for a stormy
para-anchor set on a
Gulf Stream crossing
IN FOUR YEARS OF ENGINELESS
cruising aboard Ziska, my 100year-old, 38-foot gaff cutter,
I’d never experienced weather
like the blow we encountered
after heading offshore in December 2004. The storm that
overtook us as we tried to dash
across the Gulf Stream proved
to be a most demanding and
distressing taskmaster as it
taught us a lesson in the finer
points of deploying and riding
to a para-anchor.
I’d used the para-anchor on
Ziska on an earlier occasion:
86
In October 2001, we were
about 50 miles out from New
York City when we were hit by
a line squall and dismasted.
The front had wind strengths
of maybe 65 knots, but as it
was brief and dropped to 40
knots after just half an hour,
the seas never built. I set the
9-foot-diameter Fiorentino
ParaAnchor to stop Ziska
from drifting out to sea. With
the rig securely fastened on
deck, our drift rate went from
2.5 knots to not enough to
register on our handheld GPS,
and the boat lay 20 degrees off
the breeze. This was almost in
the hove-to position, considered by many voyagers to be
the safest for survival; the
slick produced primarily by
the hull but also by the sea anchor helps to cause breaking
waves to tumble before reaching the boat.
Retrieving the chute in 30 to
40 knots of wind and 7-foot
waves wasn’t a problem, either. Every time Ziska crested
a wave, the sea anchor’s rode
would go slack, and I just
pulled it in and made it fast
before the boat crested again.
The second time I used the
sea anchor was quite another
matter entirely, and it came at
a time when we’d put ourselves in a situation we never
should’ve been in. Wendy, my
wife, and I left Chesapeake
Bay on December 5 aboard
Ziska, heading for either
Bermuda or directly to Antigua. We were exhausted after
having spent the past year
working on a new boat while
at the same time earning a liv-
ing. We were really short on
cash, which meant short on
provisions, which meant short
on time, and there was work
waiting for me in Antigua.
I had a lot of confidence in
what Ziska and I could go
through, although I knew that
her running rigging was getting a little chafed, the Aries
windvane was overdue for service, and this would be
Wendy’s first offshore trip.
As we left the Chesapeake,
there seemed to be low after
low coming through. Six inches of snow covered the deck,
and the running rigging was
stiff with ice. A northwester
was forecast for the next two
to three days, however, so we
decided to make a run for it. I
figured the weather would be
better on the far side of the
Gulf Stream, and we’d just
have to take what came our
way after the crossing.
It was cold and blustery
along the Eastern Seaboard,
but we were well wrapped up.
Ziska was reefed, and we were
happy to be making good time
to the east-southeast. The last
VHF forecast I got, when we
were 30 miles out, was hard to
hear, but it said that a severe
gale from the northeast was
headed our way. Since there
was no thought in my head of
turning and beating back, the
race was on to clear the Stream
before the gale struck.
We drove Ziska hard all
that night and the next day,
averaging about 7 knots, but
as the end of the day came
and we found ourselves on
the outer edge of the Gulf
Stream, we were broadC RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
NIC COMPTON
Ziska’s sail plan offers
skipper Ashley Butler lots
of options when the wind
freshens, but on occasion,
he’s found there’s no substitute for a para-anchor to
bring the boat under control.
FIOR ENTI NO PHOTO GALLE RY
reaching under staysail alone,
with the boom lashed firmly
in the gallows and the
bowsprit run in. As darkness
fell, Wendy and I decided it
was time to heave to, as the
waves were getting mighty
steep and the Aries was starting to have trouble steering.
We brought her to with the
main reefed down to the
throat, presenting about 75
square feet of sail. This was
OK, but we were drifting west
at about 3 knots, back into the
Stream, where there was still a
knot of current. We decided to
set the sea anchor. My intention was to try to keep Ziska in
the hove-to position and out
of the worst current.
I deployed the chute at
about 2230, in approximately
50 knots of wind. I gave it
about 300 feet of rode, leaving
60 feet to be dumped, thinking it would give us time to
sheer the lead aft to make a
bridle, which would allow us
to sit with our bow off the
wind. As I let out the rode, the
chute would begin to sink if I
let too much strain off it.
When this happened, it put
immense strain on the bow
fairlead as Ziska struggled to
lift her head over another
wave. I found that simply
keeping load on the rode and
not letting it out too fast kept
the chute on the surface,
where it belonged. Once the
300 feet was out, I rigged a
snatchblock on the end of a
block-and-tackle for the bridle line. Dumping the last 60
feet of line, I stumbled aft and
hauled like crazy on the tackle. The 60 feet of slack, however, disappeared over the side
as if we’d just caught a huge
fish, and the boat pulled up
tight again before the snatchblock even got to its position.
Ziska’s bow was wrenched
back into the wind and waves.
To make things worse, as
she came through the wind,
the rode jumped the end of
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
the run in the bowsprit and
wedged itself down between it
and the stem. Ziska was now
lying bow to, and despite all
my efforts, I was unable to
sheer the lead at all. There was
immense load on the line, to
the point that I thought the 1inch rode was going to part.
While our drift rate wasn’t
registering on the GPS, there
was no green water coming
on board and no serious
On deck, the dinghy chocks
shifted a quarter of an inch,
and we took on water through
every hatch, porthole, and
vent, none of which had ever
leaked before.
We lay ahull for about six
hours. In that time, the Aries
was fatally wounded. A 1inch bolt worked its way out
of the rudder head, bending
itself into an S shape as it did
so. The rudder stop also part-
A para-anchor, set from the
bow, ensures that the boat
meets oncoming waves
head-on, reduces drift to a
minimum, and, in theory,
lets the crew weather a
blow safely below.
ed, allowing Ziska’s huge
rudder to gouge the planking
on the studding.
Finally, the wind eased and
began to blow from the right
direction. Wendy and I got
under way with a reefed staysail while dragging about 200
feet of 1.25-inch warps. My
arms were soon numb from
the exhaustion of steering,
and after Ziska was heavily
pooped, with 2 feet of water
covering her aft half, we came
to and lay ahull again. But
unable to put up enough
mainsail to drive her up, I
couldn’t get Ziska to keep her
head up in the wind when it
blew above 45 knots. Instead,
she lay 90 to 120 degrees off
the breeze.
After seven days, we arrived
in St. George, Bermuda. We’d
had the main up for 40 hours
and never got her past three
strain on our rudder. However, Ziska was pitching heavily,
and it was uncomfortable.
The wind blew from the
northeast at 65 knots, current
from the southwest was a knot
to a knot and a half, and although wave height on average was 15 feet, it wasn’t unusual to see a 20- to 25-footer,
and they were all breaking.
About 30 hours later, the
rode chafed through, and we
lost the lot. Ziska paid off and
got bowled over on her beam
ends. In the roll, Wendy’s lee
cloth parted; she fell and broke
her rib against Ziska’s frames
on the other side of the cabin.
reefs. We sustained no damage or injury during the time
we were lying to with the sea
anchor, and if we’d been able
to sheer the lead aft to 45 degrees and sit in the hove-to
position, I believe that we
wouldn’t have lost our gear or
been so uncomfortable.
Looking back on the Gulf
Stream crossing, it’s easy to
think of what I should’ve done
when deploying the para-an-
chor. Here are some ideas:
■ Set a small sail forward to
try to help sheer the rode to
one side to help set the bridle.
■ Dead-end the rode onto a
swivel with two lines coming
off it, one to the bow and one
to the stern. Once set, I could
simply ease out the bow line
until Ziska was lying 45 degrees to the wind.
■ Set the bridle before setting
the para-anchor.
■ If we hadn’t been worried
about drift, setting a smaller
drogue instead of a para-anchor would have reduced the
load on everything.
Ashley Butler returned to the
United States to complete his
new boat, Sally B, which he
s ailed singlehanded and engineless across the Atlantic.
He’s currently ashore building
wooden boats in England.
87
REVIEWS
New technology, boats, and gear for the cruising sailor
BOAT TEST BY ALVAH SIMON
Convertible, Fast, and Fun
THE JUDGES OF THE 2005 BOAT
of the Year contest were a varied lot of old salts, adherents
to disparate creeds of fast racing, slow cruising, sticking to
the tried-and-true, or testing
the limits. This was, without a
doubt, a calculated formula to
spark keen assessment and robust debate. In the case of the
Maine Cat 41, it worked very
well, for when we stepped
aboard this “high-performance convertible cruiser,”
88
our emotions were ignited,
which brought about a lively
and lengthy evaluation.
Designer and Maine Cat
president Dick Vermeulen
told the panel he wanted to
create a high-end catamaran
with more offshore voyaging
capability, larger payload capacity, and greater comfort
than its smaller and very successful predecessor, the Maine
Cat 30. The 41 pleased us with
exceptional performance on
all points of sail while remaining a boat that a couple could
easily handle.
Although Vermeulen confidently suggested that the boat
is capable of going anywhere,
his target audience is the coastal
cruiser who occasionally aspires to explore such venues as
Cuba, Bermuda, and the B.V.I.
Indoor/Outdoor Living
Vermeulen simultaneously
addressed the concerns of
comfort and shorthanded
manageability with an amazingly simple yet innovative
cockpit configuration that
turns the 16- by 16-foot
bridgedeck into a combination of center cockpit and
main saloon. A hardtop with
soft sides covers this entire
area, so it’s open and airy
when the flexible Strataglass
windows are rolled up and
entirely enclosed when
they’re down and zipped toC RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
B ILLY B LACK
With a hard top, soft
sides, and speed to
burn, the Maine Cat
41’s ingenuity will
tickle your passion
B ILLY B LACK
The hard-topped and opensided bridgedeck on the
Maine Cat 41 (left) provides
ample room for a center-cockpit helm and saloon (above)
so that the skipper and crew
enjoy a commanding view in
every direction when at
anchor and under way.
gether. Furling away the side
panels to reduce windage
boosts sailing performance
and allows the crew to enjoy
the breeze on balmy days. On
blustery passages, the windows come down in a jiffy to
provide welcome shelter
without loss of visibility.
This layout also represents a
creative solution to the challenge of where to place the
helm on a cruising cat: high
on either side of the deck saloon’s aft bulkhead or all the
way in the back and outboards
for better forward visibility?
In the Maine Cat 41, the steering station is placed smackdab in the middle of the cockpit, with a forward view
unencumbered by superstructure and equally open views
abeam and aft. Additionally,
the four workstations for sailhandling and such are placed
in the cockpit corners,
equidistant from the helm,
which creates unprecedented
flow of movement and ease of
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
handling for a shorthanded
cruising crew or a couple.
The hardtop, the core of this
concept, was the most passionately discussed feature of
the design. It provides protection from the elements and
has great handholds around
its exterior and plenty of space
for a set of four solar panels,
each with a capacity of 110
watts; it can even be used effectively to collect rainwater.
However, all the judges agreed
that as designed, the overhead
hatches didn’t provide adequate visibility aloft when
hoisting or trimming the sails.
We felt that no matter how
fast and responsive, a boat
wouldn’t be as fun or safe to
sail if the helmsman and crew
feel too isolated from the sails,
telltales, and spars. Opinions
varied whether this constitutes
a tragic flaw or a detail that is
correctable or even acceptable.
While Bill Lee thought this
could be affordably rectified,
Steve Callahan considered it a
fundamental concern that
should be addressed in the
original construction.
Designer Vermeulen felt
strongly that changes to the
design at any stage were ill-advised. “Most people come
from experiences with open-
Maine Cat 41
LOA
LWL
Beam
Draft (board up/down)
Sail Area (100%)
Displacement
41' 6" (12.66 m.)
40' 0" (12.20 m.)
23' 0" (7.00 m.)
2' 6"/7' 0" (0.76/2.14 m.)
842 sq. ft. (78 sq. m.)
14,000 lb.
(7,600 kg.)
Bridgedeck Clearance 3' 0" (.91 m.)
(light ship)
D/L
97.70
SA/D
23.15
Water
120 gal. (456 l.)
Fuel
92 gal. (350 l.)
Mast Height
59' 6" (18.15 m.)
Engines
Two 29-hp. Yanmars
with saildrives
Designer
Dick Vermeulen
Price (fully equipped)
$404,000
Maine Cat
(207) 529-6500
www.mecat.com
air aft cockpits with no structure between themselves and
the rig. They may have an initial reaction to being under
something, but we find new
owners quickly adjust to the
environment. In a high-performance multihull such as
the Maine Cat 41, the helmsman soon learns to rely more
on the electronic wind instruments on the console, as
they’re much more efficient
than traditional wind indicators. We’ve considered this
carefully, and we feel that to
arbitrarily cut a hatch above
the helm would expose the
helmsman to tropical sun and
create a large, slippery surface
for the crew tending the sails.
We believe we struck the optimum balance between visibility and protection.”
Quality Construction
While the judges couldn’t
find consensus on the visibility
issue, they were united in their
praise of the elegant engineering, material selection, and
quality of construction. In
catamarans especially, the
competing requirements of
payload and performance
must be met with a design
compromise. On the Maine
Cat, this has been addressed
with slippery hulls that have
semicircular cross sections and
a length-to-beam ratio of
10.5:1. A fine entry and generous flare forward, combined
with flat sections aft, create sufficient buoyancy to reduce
pitching, enhance performance, and carry a real-world
payload of 7,000 pounds. Lateral stability is derived from a
23-foot beam.
Down to interior furniture, every fabrication is
vacuum-bagged composite over Core-Cell
foam. This creates a lightweight hull of immense
stiffness that’s stronger
than a laminate with
PVC foam core and
avoids the possibility of
water impregnation that’s associated with balsa cores. Hull
89
REVIEWS
and deck are built with a combination of biaxial and triaxial
fiberglass fabrics. Peel-ply fabric is applied to the inside laminate and is removed to reveal
a surface that’s then finished
with gelcoat instead of weighty
lining panels.
Core and structural resins
are isophthalic polyesters to
avoid excessive styrene levels,
while vinylester is used for laminating the skin coat. The 3inch shiplap hull/deck joint on
the Maine Cat 41 is bonded
with urethane adhesive and
glassed on the interior with triaxial tapes. This creates a
monocoque that’s structurally
sound and should never creak
or leak. Limited by style or
building considerations, many
catamarans sport an extreme
camber at the outer deck edges.
This reduces the area of safe
footing and can create a sense
of insecurity when moving forward. By contrast, the Maine
Cat has flat deck sections, toerails, and a step-down recess
for easy boarding without compromising its sleek appeal.
When loaded—an important distinction—the underwing clearance between the
bridgedeck and the water is
32 inches. The conditions on
the Chesapeake during our
test couldn’t confirm this,
but there shouldn’t be any
hull slap in all but the most
extreme seaway. Crash bulkheads, three sealed compartments, and 315 cubic feet of
closed-cell foam in the laminate all work to make the
vessel virtually unsinkable.
Solid, Smart, and Swift
In keeping with its performance theme, the Maine Cat
41 has two 7-foot retractable
daggerboards and balanced
spade rudders. Fully deployed,
the foils generate enormous
lift; when retracted, they allow
Adventure
Charters
THAILAND
SUNSAIL
February 9 – 23,
2006
✦ Breathtaking scenery and Thai culture will surround
our flotilla of yachts from Sunsail in the Andaman
Sea. Sail among islands with limestone cliffs towering
above lagoons and secluded beaches, snorkel over
coral reefs, browse open-air markets, and delight in
the generous spirit of the Thai people.
✦ The cost of $4,200 per person includes round-trip
airfare from New York to Bangkok/Phuket, 10 days of
sailing, split provisioning, three nights’ hotel, and more.
✦ An optional add-on to exotic Chiang Mai, Thailand,
and Cambodia’s Angkor Wat is available.
For information, contact King Yacht Charters
(800-521-7552 or 860-536-9217, www.sailingcharters.com
and e-mail info@sailingcharters.com).
90
the boat to slip sideways in
breaking waves without tripping. Under way, they operated smoothly and without hum
or trunk rattle.
All deck hardware, which
includes Harken blocks and
Lewmar clutches, organizers,
tracks, cars, and winches, is of
high quality and properly
mounted. The 26-inch lifelines run through stanchions
that are anchored with four
through-bolts.
An excellent pushpit separates the aft athwartship walkway from open seas, a safety
feature that was missing on
many multihulls we surveyed.
The pulpits aren’t mere decoration but practical, high, and
strong. The nonskid is aggressive and well detailed. The
dinghy is shipped via a clever
“stinger” extension from the
boom and stowed on retractable davits. Forward, twin
self-draining lockers house a
vertical Lewmar V3 gypsy/
drum electric windlass and
extra anchors and rodes. During the test, the ground tackle
deployed and retrieved
smoothly from the foredeck
switch and the remote control
at the helm.
The steering mechanism is
an Edson CD-i rack-and-pinion system, which is coupled
to solid drag links on dummy
tiller heads. While this
arrangement has a good feel
and is relatively reliable, it’s
not foolproof. The judges concurred that the Maine Cat 41
should have a backup emergency steering system.
The 715-square-foot main
with generous roach and a
self-tending working jib provide serious power under
sail. An optional carbonfiber strut extends forward of
the crossbeam to accommodate a roller-furled code zero
or a sock-doused asymmetric
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February 18, 2006
Mamaroneck Yacht Club • Mamaroneck, NY
Moderator: Ralph Naranjo
Contact: Linda Scatturo
Phone: (914) 698-1130 • e-mail: Linda@mamaroneckbeachandyacht.com
April 1 & 2, 2006
Marine Trades Association of MD and U. S. Naval Academy
Sailing Squadron • Annapolis, MD
Moderators: Ralph Naranjo and Chuck Hawley
Contact: Suzanne Zellers
Phone: (301) 261-1021 • e-mail: director@mtam.org
April 8, 2006
U. S. Merchant Marine Academy • Kings Point, NY
Moderator: Ralph Naranjo
Contact: Rick Dominique
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C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
spinnaker. Low aero- and hydrodynamic drag also translates into performance under
power. The twin 29-horsepower Yanmar 3YM30 diesels
with saildrives and Flex-OFold propellers push the boat
along at a sprightly 8.7 knots
at 3,000 rpm. As expected
with twin engines, the Maine
Cat maneuvered with precision in forward and reverse,
but it also backed straight
under one engine, something
no other catamaran in the
contest could do. The engine
rooms are spacious, well insulated, and easily accessible.
A massive, 1,200-amp-hour
bank of glass mat batteries is
well secured, and the electrical wiring is neatly organized
and numbered.
A Clever Layout
The cockpit/saloon sports a
secure helm seat behind a
complete console; two seduc-
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
tively comfortable swiveling
chairs; long, L-shaped settees;
and a saloon table with dual
seating that drops to a double
berth for moon-drenched
nights outside. A 5-inch sill
prevents downflooding into
the hulls. Admittedly, the
likelihood of flooding such a
high and light boat is minimal, but the traditionalist in
me would like to see more
than two 3-inch scuppers to
drain this large cockpit.
Going below into the port
hull, one descends into a simple yet attractive and functional galley. A four-burner
stove, deep double sinks, eyelevel refrigerator, ample tankage, and good countertops
make this a seaworthy workspace. Moving forward past
an offset double guest berth
and through a head with sink
and shower, one reaches a
single crew cabin. While access to this berth through the
guest cabin raises privacy
questions, it seems unavoidable if space is to be optimized. The starboard hull
houses the owner’s double
berth, which is separated by a
useful office/nav station from
a head and shower aft; a crew
berth lies forward. Spacious
stowage has been provided.
The main saloon is, as previously described, the cockpit.
Especially in the tropics, there
can be no better spot to dine
and socialize with a full view
of the surroundings. That feature makes this boat a fine
“vacation platform.”
Convincing Under Sail
Clever layout aside, a true
multihull enthusiast demands
nothing short of thrilling performance under sail. During
our test in light air, it became
clear that thanks to light displacement and low wetted
surface, the Maine Cat 41
could sail at or above true
wind speed. The high-aspect
daggerboards and efficient rig
pulled it to windward like a
train, and with a bit of breeze
and sheets cracked, this scalded cat should consistently run
in double digits.
Lengthy debate couldn’t resolve the few points of contention among the BOTY
judges. Nevertheless, we concluded that the Maine Cat 41
reflected an innovative concept offering performance,
comfort, and flexibility, and
these were all backed with an
old-fashioned dedication to
quality craftsmanship. We
voted the Maine Cat 41 the
2005 winner in the category
of multihulls over 40 feet, and
on that we were unanimous.
Alvah Simon is a bluewater veteran and the author of North to
t h e N i g h t . H e w a s a B OT Y
judge for 2005.
91
REVIEWS
BOAT REVIEW BY DIETER LOIBNER
Compulsively Creative
A German knack
for innovation and
performance defines
the new Dehler 47
W ITH ITS NEW 47- FOOTER ,
Dehler delivers a performance
cruiser that’s loaded with inventive features and bears the
signature lines of Judel/Vrolijk
& Co. It also follows in the
footsteps of the Dehler 33, a
seminal IMS-based design of
the mid-1990s credited with
ushering in the present era of
performance cruising boats.
floor beams are laminated to
the hull for better distribution
of rig loads. Dehler joins the
hull and deck while both parts
are still in the molds, then laminates the hull/deck joint with
a wide swath of fiberglass tape.
The spacious and functional
cockpit is segmented by the
traveler track and a 72-inch
wheel that recesses into the
cockpit sole. The helmsman’s
position is comfortable, close
to the winches, and has good
forward visibility. However,
with all sail-control strings led
aft through tunnels on the
cabin top, line tends to pile up.
This boat features a fold-
ings and the fact that nonskid
on the coachroof is an option.
As one can expect from
Dehler, the deck hardware is
excellent. The test boat had an
electric/hydraulic anchor-deployment system that folded
in and out of the anchor locker at the push of a button. But
the lack of a backup system
and the inability to set another
anchor on a second roller concerned the judges.
Alvah Simon liked the sliding companionway hatch and
the transparent and tinted
drop-down Lexan washboards: “One of the better,
more seaworthy hatches that
we’ve seen,” he said.
The boat is offered with four
different interiors appointed
in warm cherry and executed
with solid joiner work. The
judges commended vented
lockers, dividable berths in the
aft cabin, a forward-facing nav
station, a functional galley
with fridge/freezer, and a
three-burner stove/oven. The
plumbing system has plenty of
scuppers, a manual backup
bilge pump, and a central discharge valve for draining the
freshwater system.
The boat maneuvered and
performed very well under
engine and sail. The threebladed Flex-O-Fold propeller produced plenty of
thrust in forward and reverse. With its tall, threespreader rig, an 8-foot standard keel, and a sail
area-to-displacement ratio
of 21.51, the Dehler 47 made
the most of the anemic 8knot breeze.
The Dehler 47 took home
the 2005 Boat of the Year
award for production cruisers above 45 feet. “To me, the
47 was a mix of good ideas,”
judge Bill Lee said. “And it
sailed very nicely.”
Dieter Loibner is a former CW
associate editor.
In early 2005, Dehler was acquired by Dutch entrepreneur
Wilan van den Berg, who aims
to consolidate marketing,
sales, and production while
increasing brand awareness.
The 47’s slender, shallow
hull with a sharp, plumb bow
hints at excellent sailing capabilities. It’s laid up by hand
with multidirectional fabrics
over end-grain balsa core. The
92
down stern scoop for easy access to water toys or scuba
gear. The block-and-tackle
system on the test boat seemed
insufficient for safe and effective operation by a shorthanded crew, but an optional hydraulic mechanism would
address this issue.
Deck flow from the cockpit
forward was unobstructed,
and there was enough room to
stow a dinghy. However, the
Boat of the Year judges criticized the absence of mast rail-
Dehler 47
LOA
LWL
Beam
Draft (shoal/std.)
Sail Area (100%)
Displacement
Water
Fuel
Engine
Designer
Price
46' 10" (14.30 m.)
41' 4" (12.60 m.)
14' 0" (4.26 m.)
6' 6"/8' 0" (1.88/2.44 m.)
1,228 sq. ft. (114 sq. m.)
27,500 lb. (12,500 kg.)
118 gal. (447 l.)
71 gal. (269 l.)
55- or 75-hp. Yanmar saildrive
Judel/Vrolijk & Co.
$560,000
Dehler North America
(773) 843-2497
www.dehler.us
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
B I LLY B LACK
The Dehler 47’s slender hull
and sharp, plumb bow hint at
its excellent sailing abilities.
DECEMBER 2005
BOAT REVIEW BY DIETER LOIBNER
Weapon of Mass Production
B I LLY B LACK
The stylish Bavaria
42 Cruiser
introduces the
prolific German
builder’s latest
cruising line
WHEN OUR BOAT OF THE YEAR
judging team first saw the
Bavaria 42 Cruiser at the U. S.
Sailboat Show in Annapolis,
Maryland, during the fall of
2004, they experienced a mild
case of déjà vu. After all, the
boat’s BMW-like styling and
its blue-and-white color
scheme are practically trademarks of the German builder
Bavaria Yachtbau, which operates one of the world’s most
automated and technologically advanced boatyards in
Giebelstadt, hundreds of
miles from the nearest briny.
According to the design brief
obtained from Bavaria’s U.S.
representative, Bruce Mundle,
the new 42 is a performance
cruiser aimed at “a secondtime owner who desires comfortable coastal sailing with
strong offshore potential.” The
Slovenian design firm of J&J
Design delivered a stylish vessel that will indeed take you
down the coast or out to the islands, and it will cut a nice figC RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
ure at the dock or on the hook
when not making tracks.
For the hull, Bavaria employed traditional fiberglass
construction techniques with
a sandwich laminate above the
waterline and solid glass below
(with a second layer reinforcing the keel area). Aramid fabric in the bow can minimize
damage from a collision.
Alvah Simon, who judged
the deck layout and overall
ergonomics, liked the solid
footing on the cockpit’s teak
surfaces, the square-patterned nonskid on the cabin
top, and the wide and safe
foredeck. The judges found
the self-draining cockpit with
leather-clad dual wheels to be
spacious and functional. Bavaria’s clever choice of oval
Lewmar ports enhances the
boat’s exterior look and facilitates good ventilation with
lots of natural light.
The test boat had the standard three-cabin layout with
a bright saloon, thanks to the
large, slanted, aluminumframed rectangular deck
lights abaft the mast. This
layout incorporates two
head/shower compartments.
The forward–facing nav table
is well sized for using paper
charts and accommodates
the necessary instrumentation as well as the electrical
switch panel.
The 42 C features an L-
shaped galley in the main saloon, which raised concerns
about workability in a seaway.
“The double sinks are a bit
shallow, and you need to strap
yourself in,” said Alvah. Regarding the upholstery, he
said, “Above and beyond anything else we’ve seen.” Below
the floorboards, one electrical
and one manual bilge pump
and a sump with strainer were
solid nods toward safety, as
was the exemplary access to
the steering system.
The test boat had a fixed,
three-bladed prop, an in-mast
furling main, and the 5-foot11-inch shoal-draft keel option with cast-iron ballast.
While it plowed along in the
gusty 15- to 18-knot breeze
with only moderate weather
helm, the boat was stifled a bit
by a mainsail that required
some tuning tweaks.
With the boat heeling to
Strapped in, the Bavaria 42 C
shows off clean lines that are
accentuated by oval ports in
the topsides.
the breeze, it wasn’t easy to
get comfortable on the flat
helm seat without foot
braces, which we’d recommend installing. The dodger
was large, with clear panels
for good mainsail visibility;
these would’ve also been welcome on the bimini. The 55horsepower Volvo auxiliary
diesel with saildrive pushed
the boat along at a cruising
speed of 8 knots at 2,500 rpm.
The Bavaria 42 Cruiser’s
base price of $206,350 and its
pleasant looks will intrigue
experienced sailors with
plans for coastal cruises and,
quite possibly, even a jaunt
farther afield.
Dieter Loibner is a former CW
associate editor.
BAVARIA 42 CRUISER
LOA
LWL
Beam
Draft (std./deep)
Sail Area (100%)
Displacement
Water
Fuel
Engine
Designer
Price
42' 8" (13.00 m.)
37' 5" (11.40 m.)
13' 1" (4 m.)
5' 11"/6' 11" (1.80/2.10 m.)
793 sq. ft. (73 sq. m.)
20,282 lb. (9,200 kg.)
95 gal. (361 l.)
55 gal. (209 l.)
55-hp. Volvo Penta
J&J Design
$206,350 (Oct. 2005)
Bavaria Yachts USA
(410) 990-0007
www.bavariayachts.com
93
REVIEWS
NEW PRODUCTS BY ELAINE LEMBO
The Imelda Effect Meets the Cruising Set
If being well-heeled
is a goal for next
year, here are some
pointers to get you
off on the right foot
Sperry Perforated
Thong
94
and, of course, correct fit al- ler, who’s sold footwear for
years at JT’s Chandlery in Newways matter, too.
“The key is to find a shoe port, Rhode Island, sticks to
that’s going to support your tradition. “Crossover shoes
aren’t boat shoes,”
foot,” says gear outfitter and
says Butler,
tester Carrie Fletcher, owner of
who’s helped
Shegear, an online business ofsailors buy
fering women’s watersports
everything
gear, active-wear clothing,
from Keds
outdoor instruction, and
sneakers to
accessories. The technoloboots
that
gy that goes into makwithstand the
ing a cross-trainer
rigors of offshore
court shoe is the
voyaging. For those
same craftsmanlooking to fill the
ship you want in a
Christmas stockings
new boat shoe.
of the sailors in their
“You’re moving
lives, he emphaticalsideways, and
ly suggests “Sandals.
you need stabilGuys want sandals.”
ity,” she says. A
It can’t hurt to keep
foot bed that inthese expert, yet divercludes a sturdy
gent, observations in
heel cup to keep the
mind as you sort
fatty tissue and
West Marine
bones aligned is Norman Island Thong through the new soles
for sale in 2006.
important.
Some shoes try to be all
things to all wearers and, Bare Essentials
If life aboard means you
in that bout of overambition, seem have room for only the bare
doomed to fal- but useful essentials, look beter. Ben But- yond the basic flip-flop to
Sperry Topsider’s Perforated
Thong for women ($60) and
to the unisex Norman Island
Thong by West Marine ($30).
Part of Sperry’s new Edgewater Collection, the women’s
Lands’ End deck shoes
thong provides traction in wet
and dry conditions and support through the compression-molded EVA midsole
and foot bed, yet it lends that
barefoot feel with its soft
leather strap. The Norman Island Thong features a nonmarking nonslip-rubber sole
that keeps you steady on a wet
deck, and its cushioned midSperry Hydrofoil
COU RTESY OF TH E MAN U FACTU R ER S
BOAT SHOES HAVE COME A LONG
way from the days of the archless moccasin. Whether you
buy them to keep you comfortable, dry, stable, warm, in
step with fashion, or—most
important of all—on the boat,
there are so many new brands
on the market that you’d need
the holds of a gigayacht to
stow them.
Before you get in touch with
your inner Imelda— at one
count, the deposed first lady
of the Philippines owned
1,220 pairs—let your personal
needs and priorities find a
meeting point with the innovative qualities of these purpose-driven products. As we
pored over the offerings this
holiday season, we oohed and
we aahed. But we consulted
with a couple of experts before we pulled out the plastic.
Among important qualities,
look for such features as minimal water absorption, arch
support and stability, the degree of traction, the ability to
kill odor-causing bacteria,
and resistance to deck
marking. Breathability
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
ors, dare to go where jellies
leave off. Fans swear by
their comfort and versatility, in part thanks to
a strap that lets you
wear them either
secured at the
heel or as
slip-ons.
Sebago
Wave
Extreme
sole and leather
strap form to your feet
for a comfy fit. Despite inevitable exposure to salt air
and sea, the durable heavyduty nylon-thread bottom
won’t rot, says the maker.
If sandals are what matter to
men, Butler suggests turning
again to Sperry, which offers
the Hydrofoil ($70), so
named for a design that imitates the
anti-drag
qualities of
Crocs
SHAN NON CAI N (PAI R S), COU RTESY OF TH E MAN U FACTU R ER S
a hydrofoil
hull. Its dual-suspension system is designed to keep the foot stable
yet allow it to move naturally
over slippery surfaces, a big
plus when going from dinghy
to rocky shore.
Thick-Skinned
Now for something completely different: It looks like a
clog, but it’s named for a creature. Crocs, the pudgy, plasticlooking but resin-made shoes
available in a rainbow of col-
Sebago
Spinnaker
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Whether
it’s a shoe to stash in the dinghy
for errands ashore or to wear
all day to help keep your spine
in line when you’re standing
for long periods, Crocs ($30 to
$60) find favor because they’re
relatively inexpensive, comfortable yet supportive in the
sole, lightweight, and full of
good-sized ventilation holes
(called portholes) that allow
sand, stones, and water to drain
out quickly. Maybe best of
all, the PCCR formula,
which is exclusive to
the maker and
doesn’t mark
decks, is also
odor resistant.
It
might
be
stretching it a little to say
your feet will smell like
roses, but at least they
won’t stink.
Classic
Sometimes only the traditional, which is also fully functional, will do.
To that end, Sebago offers
the Spinnaker version of its
Docksides deck shoes ($85),
described as “the quintessentially preppy boat shoe” for
men and women, in a variety
of nautically-inspired
color and hue combinations.
Lands’ End, the mail-order
clothing company, answers
with its own version of deck
shoes in both fabric and
leather. The women’s and
men’s lace-up deck shoes
($30) feature cotton canvas
uppers, padded collar and insole, and a razor-siped sole for
traction. The three-eye boat
mocs ($50), available in
women’s and men’s sizes,
have
hand-sewn
nubuck uppers,
padded collars, and sockliners as well
as skid-resistant soles.
New to Rugged Shark’s
inventory of specialty marine footwear for men and
women is the Men’s Classic ($65). This version of the
deck moccasin, which is offered in three colors, not only
features water-resistant
leather uppers and a foot bed
lined with anti-microbial
material but also includes
corrosion-resistant eyelets.
The maker also equips
its
Sperry
Edgewater
Sport Zip
products
with a trademarked outsole
called the Shark Grip, which
has a pattern of grooves and
channels that aim to give
wearers the best traction in
even the wettest conditions.
High Test
Lest you think performance
shoes are only for racing
sailors, consider choosing
among these new styles before
signing on
Rugged Shark Men’s Classic
with the next Atlantic Rally for
Cruisers. The Wave Extreme
($90) by Sebago, available in
men’s and women’s sizes, is a
technical shoe featuring an adjustable shock cord-and-nylon
strap and a lacing system encircling the ankle that keeps
the shoe firm around the foot.
The Edgewater Sport Zip for
women ($70) by Sperry is a
shoe similar to the popular Figawi style
introduced in
2002, but it’s
sleeker and
lighter while
retaining all the
traction, support,
and breathability features of
the Figawi design.
Elaine Lembo is Cruising
World’s managing editor.
CONTACT INFORMATION
Crocs:
JT’s Chandlery:
Lands’ End:
Rugged Shark:
Sebago:
Shegear:
Sperry:
West Marine:
877-238-4404
401-846-7256
608-935-6170
954-782-3200
616-866-5500
401-619-0072
617-824-6000
831-728-2700
www.crocs.com
www.jtschandlery.com
www.landsend.com
www.ruggedshark.com
www.sebago.com
www.shegear.com
www.sperrytopsider.com
www.westmarine.com
95
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C RU I S I N G W O R L D
CHARTERING
NEWS AND NOTES ON SAILING-VACATION OPPORTUNITIES
Island Yachts Adds to Fleet of Island Packets
Starting with charters this month, Island
Yacht Charters in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I., offers a new 2006 Island Packet 445. The center-cockpit monohull has two large staterooms with centerline berths, private heads
with separate shower stalls, and a double
and single berth in the main saloon. The
boat can accommodate up to seven people
and their seabags comfortably.
Other features include a wide step-down
transom with hot and cold pressure shower,
a refrigerator and freezer, a 12-foot Caribe
hard-bottom inflatable dinghy with an 8horsepower Yamaha outboard engine, a
Maxwell 1200 anchor windlass, VacuFlush
heads, a roller-furling mast, and bow
thrusters, among other features. For more
details and rates, call the company (800524-2019) or consult the Island Yacht Charters website (www.iyc.vi).
Have a Drink on Sunsail
Sunsail will welcome its charterers in the
British Virgin Islands with a rum-punch reception the night before they shove off.
The reception, held at 4:30 p.m. on the
evening before departure, is a time for
guests to get acquainted with other sailors
and to see their boats. Guests who arrive
earlier in the day and who want to get ready
for their sailing adventure may take a complimentary shuttle to one of the Road Town
supermarkets for any last-minute provisioning and people watching.
Other guests looking to get their vacation
off to a relaxing start can stay at the base and
enjoy the tropical scenery, visit the Calamaya Restaurant and Bar, located at the marina, or take a dip in the swimming pool.
“Charter companies” listed maintain
fleets of bareboats and report that they
maintain chase boats/personnel, carry
liability insurance, return security
deposits in 10 working days, deliver the
boat contracted (or same size, type, age,
condition, or better), supply MOB gear,
and offer pre-charter briefings.
“Brokers” are not affiliated with any charter
company; they book private or companyowned boats, crewed or bareboat.
C = Crewed B = Bareboat
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
“Something as simple as offering our
guests a glass of rum punch the night before
their departure says a lot about our priorities at Sunsail,” said Peter Cook, general
manager of Sunsail USA. “Our priority is
our guests. We want to ensure that they get
their vacation started the right way and understand that our hospitality is taken seriously in an effort to provide them comfort
and relaxation.” For details, visit the company’s website (www.sunsail.com).
Moorings’ Signature Vacations
Offers More Than Crewed Chartering
The Moorings calls its crewed-chartering
program Signature Vacations, and the company promotes it as an ideal platform for
activities other than sailing, including scuba
diving, rowing, kayaking, windsurfing,
snorkeling, beachcombing, and even kite-
COMPANIES ADVERTISING
THIS MONTH**
Phone
boarding. If you’re unsure about what kiteboarding involves, be sure to watch the
Outdoor Life Network (OLN) and Hi-Def
Television Network for episodes of The
Moorings B.V.I. Kitesailing Adventures, produced by Fusion Television Entertainment.
The programs, running through early 2006,
feature Sir Richard Branson, of Virgin corporate-empire fame, aboard a crewed
Moorings Signature 6200, a 62-foot catamaran. When he’s not sailing, Branson kiteboards with Ludo Brockway, his 19-yearold nephew, a kiteboarding pro from the
United Kingdom.
Still not sure what kiteboarding’s all
about? Consult Kiteboarding, CW’s sister
publication (www.kiteboardingmag.
com). It’ll go a long way toward demystifying this watersport.
Elaine Lembo
Years in US/
Business Can. Carib. Euro. Pacif.
Ad.
Page
CHARTER
Sunsail
The Moorings
Kiriacoulis
Tortola Marine Management, Ltd.
Conch Charters, Ltd.*
Florida Yacht Charters & Sales
Horizon Yacht Charters, Ltd.*
Barefoot Yacht Charters*
Annapolis Bay Charters
CYOA Yacht Charters*
Fun In The Sun Charters
Voyage
The Catamaran Company
NW Explorations*
VIP Sail & Power Charters*
Island Yachts*
Elite Island Yachts
Olympic Yacht Charters
Antilles-Sail.com
BareCat Charters, Inc.
Southwest Florida Yachts
800-797-5307
29
888-703-3176
36
800-714-3411
25
800-633-0155
25
800-521-8939
17
800-537-0050
21
877-494-8787
7
784-456-9526
20
800-991-1776
25
800-944-2962
25
800-327-0228
26
888-869-2436
8
800-262-0308
18
800-826-1430
29
866-347-3335
25
800-524-2019
26
866-229-0022
2
877-247-3323
3
011 590 590 901 681
4
800-296-KATS
13
800-262-7939
20
x
x
800-621-7855
800-521-7552
800-866-8340
C
C/B
C/B
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
C/B
C/B
C/B
C/B
C/B
C/B
x
104-105, 119
102-103,115
116
98
119
108-109
106-107
110-111
117
114
119
113
100-101
117
115
118
99
116
119
120
118
BROKER
Ed Hamilton
King Yacht Charters
Swift Yacht Charters
32
12
18
C/B
C/B
C/B
120
120
118
* Also broker ** This directory is a list of charter companies advertising in this issue; it is not an endorsement by the editors.
Classified advertisers not listed. Listings are arranged in fleet size order.
97
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
NOVE MBER 2005
115
116
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
117
118
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
119
120
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
ADVERTISEMENT
BROKERAGE
C RU I S I N G W O R L D
WHERE YOU’LL FIND THE BEST USED BOATS ON THE MARKET
BOtAhTe
of
MONTH
57' DUDLEY DIX, SABBATICAL II
Sabbatical's design was influenced by the legendary cruiser, Steven Dashew, who concluded the best
passage-maker was one which was fast and easily handled. Fewer storms are encountered if you get to
your destination faster. She has a very long waterline to give a fast hull speed. The rig and ballast are
designed to stand up to a stiff breeze. The sailplan is evenly balanced among the working sails for ease of
handling by a cruising couple. Built of aluminum with oversized scantlings by one of the world's best
aluminum yacht builders, Howdy Bailey, and delivered in 2000. Inside and outside steering stations give
great versatility. She is truly an ocean machine. See our brokerage ad on page 126.
Contact Interyacht
7076 Bembe Beach Rd., Annapolis, MD 21403
phone: (410) 280-6100 or check out info@interyacht.com.
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
121
BROKERAGE
JOEL F. POTTER • CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.
Passion for Passagemaking
THE NEW AMEL 54'
In creating this new AMEL, contemporary elegance, exceptional performance under power and sail, and unrivaled safety and comfort
were the main goals we had in mind. Our new 54' has been designed and constructed with a perfect balance of the strong and specific
character of the AMEL pedigree with a deep dedication to innovation.
This new AMEL is the result of real team work from the AMEL Design Group, which incorporates a cross section of the entire AMEL
company with exquisite engineering and unmatched attention to every detail very evident throughout the results.
Today, the AMEL 54' is ready for you to try. We truly believe that, more than ever before, she is the perfect synthesis of modern
construction techniques and 40 years of AMEL experience in the specialized construction of ocean cruising yachts. The ideal platform
for two…or more, you will find the uncommon combination of well balanced high performance with comfort and safety that are
unavailable elsewhere.
Conceived and outfitted in order to make the AMEL 54' the easiest sailing yacht of this range to be competently managed by the cruising
couple, you will always feel firmly in control, regardless of your circumstances.
Stepping aboard the AMEL 54' immediately transports you to a rarified and refined environment of varnished mahogany, fine leather, and
exclusive top quality componentry. The new interior configuration in conjunction with contemporary furnishings creates a vast living
space with an abundance of light and ventilation, all the while remaining extremely inviting and cozy.
It's a fact that the cruising lifestyle combines sailing with even longer moments dockside or on a mooring. In order to take maximum
advantage of your stationary time, the deck areas have been configured to promote the enjoyment of all harbor side activities.
The side decks are wide and unencumbered making them easy to negotiate. For those so inclined, the area over the aft cabin can be
configured into a superb sun lounge for catching some rays or just relaxing. The sugar-scoop stern is designed to allow easy access to
the water, either when using the dinghy, or when having a refreshing swim or employing the passerelle.
The ergonomically correct cockpit, fully protected from the weather, is a perfect adjunct to the bright and airy saloon. Both are wonderful
places to share moments of happiness and conviviality with family and friends. This magnificent saloon has room for everyone and
includes two real armchairs with the ships bar conveniently located just in between…
The fully equipped and exceptionally functional galley is situated to be convenient to both the cockpit and the saloon making the choice
to dine al fresco all the more inviting. The large forward facing navigation desk, with it's own special area for your computer, is also
situated to make access easy from the saloon or the cockpit.
Forward of the saloon are a double berth stateroom to port with an upper and lower single berth cabin opposite to starboard. All the way
forward is the utility area, incorporating separated clothes washer and dryer, a large stall shower, as well as a vanity with wash basin
and a fresh water flush electric marine toilet. Sybaritic comfort for four is fully achieved up forward.
By a slight margin that is obvious but not ponderous, the owners stateroom is the boats best cabin. It is located all the way aft. Within is
a centerline Queen sized island berth, a ladies sit down vanity, an abundance of personal storage space, and an en-suite washroom with
a separate stall shower, vanity and wash basin, and of course, a fresh water flush electric toilet.
The AMEL 54 is our thoughtful response to all the dreams, requests, and requirements of our previous clients. You will find a lot to like
aboard. We promise. Come have a look…
PREVIOUS AMEL OWNERS WHO HAVE SEEN, SAILED AND ORDERED
THE “NEW” AMEL 54' ARE UNANIMOUS IN THEIR PRAISE. THEY ALL SAY,
"YOU MADE EVERYTHING BETTER."
JOEL F. POTTER - CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, LLC
Amel’s Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 954-462-5869 • Fax: 954-462-3923 • Email: jfpottercys@att.net
CONVENIENTLY LOCATED IN FORT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA
122
CRUISING WORLD D E C E M B E R 2005
BROKERAGE
JOEL F. POTTER • CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.
Passion for Passagemaking
BROKERAGE 53' AMEL SUPER MARAMUS
For those of you who decide not to obtain a brand new AMEL 54' the next best thing is one of
our BROKERAGE SELECT AMEL 53' examples. As AMEL built, sold, and serviced every new
boat with the AMEL name on it, it stands to reason we are the best source for better quality
brokerage examples. In North America and the Caribbean, our BROKERAGE SELECT models
have been deeply and carefully inspected by me. The vessels' entire history is checked.
Representations and opinions are made that you can rely on. Respectfully, we have forgotten
more about AMELS than most other brokers will ever know. We can take the best care of your
AMEL interests. To follow are some facts that make both the AMEL 54' and the AMEL 53' today's
best cruising boat choice in this size range.
SAFETY. Your safety is our primary concern. Period. Everything is secondary to
keeping you safe and secure. Our four full-height water tight bulkheads, eight watertight
compartments, and an extremely prudent approach to your overall safety allow us to say
that this is the safest fiberglass cruising boat money can buy.
EASE OF HANDLING. Truth be known we design our boats primarily for the ladies.
Really. They stay around longer this way! A woman's deepest concern is always "What
happens to me if something happens to you?..." We are pleased to prove that if you can lift
50 lbs. up to your knees, you can do EVERYTHING involved in the safe and efficient
operation of this boat BY YOURSELF. All the power assisted features that make this
possible have complete manual backups in the extremely unlikely event of the lights going
out. When under way, the boat is completely and effortlessly controlled by just one from
the comfort of the helm station which is situated beneath the hard dodger. Sun, wind, rain
and spray are never a concern. We are quite happy to prove all of this to your complete
satisfaction.
RELIABLILITY/REPAIRABLILTY. Stuff breaks. Things wear out. Reality happens.
All AMEL boats are designed and built as an integrated cruising system. All of the
component parts are the highest quality available, all installed to offer immediate access
for maintainability. Ask any Amel owner, they have far less repair problems than others.
Our walk in - stand up engine and machinery room is just one of the reasons why, as is the
immediate access to every component.
QUALITY. When you buy all the quality you can afford, you only cry once. All AMEL
boats are heralded worldwide as extremely high quality production built cruisers. Our
process of engineered evolution, the fact we are entirely employee owned, and the insight
that comes from our being sailors conspire to make the SUPER MARAMU the highest
quality yacht in this size range. Oh sure, there are boats that might be slightly more fancy.
None of them are better built.
VALUE. All AMELS hold their resale value better than like sized production built cruising
boats for one simple reason…AMELS are better! We aren't the most opulent but we are
amongst the most comfortable. We are not the fastest but we ain't slow. We are the best
combination of the above mentioned four factors and we delight in gently and logically
proving this to you.
PHOTOS: JOEL F. POTTER
WITH 68% OF THE 63 ORDERS PLACED ON THE NEW AMEL 54' COMING FROM AMEL OWNERS,
WE ALWAYS HAVE A SELECTION OF ONLY THE BEST BROKERAGE EXAMPLES OF THE AMEL 53'.
JOEL F. POTTER - CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, LLC
Amel’s Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 954-462-5869 • Fax: 954-462-3923 • Email: jfpottercys@att.net
CONVENIENTLY LOCATED IN FORT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA
CRUISING WORLD D E C E M B E R 2005
123
BROKERAGE
BROKERAGE
BROKERAGE
CONTACT US TODAY!
800-850-4081
• WORLDWIDE
• LICENSED AND BONDED
• OVER 35 YEARS EXPERIENCE
2015 SW 20th Street, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33315
nous parlons Français • wir sprechen Deutsch • se habla Español
USA • BVI • France • UK
onth
eM
h
T
l Of
Dea
LEOPARD 62 2003
5 double staterooms with private
heads. Can remain in crewed charter
with income and no expenses.
Only one available. Asking $1.85M.
LEOPARD 42 2001
LEOPARD 38 2000
Popular bluewater cruiser, liveaboard or day cruiser. 3 cabins/2 heads. Owner's
model with private suite to starboard. Hugh cockpit and storage lockers. 40 hp
diesel. Complete electronics including autopilot and chartplotter. Asking: $199,000.
2 Master suites with walkaround island
berths and 2 guest cabins all with
private baths. Fully equipped for
cruising. Asking: $299,000.
BENETEAU 50 2000
LEOPARD 47 2001
BENETEAU 45 2000
DUFOUR/GIBSEA 43 2001
3, 4 and 5 cabin layouts available w/private
head/shower, twin steering stations, crew
quarters. Lying Ft. Lauderdale and
Caribbean. From $199,000.
Four luxurious staterooms with ensuite
heads. Equipped for cruising with full
electronics, generator and air conditioning.
Loaded and ready to cruise. $359,000.
“Boat of the Year” by Robertson & Caine. Four
luxurious staterooms with ensuite heads. Proven
“bluewater cruiser.” Sail away with complete
electronics, galley equipment, etc. Lying Ft. Lauderdale,
Caribbean and Mediterranean. $299,000.
3 cabin layout. Hugh owner’s suite
with settee that converts to a 4th cabin.
Performance cruise equipped, largest
cockpit in its class, dual helms.
Electronics +++ $139,000.
BENETEAU OCEANIS 461 1999
BENETEAU OCEANIS 361 2000
BENETEAU OCEANIS 411 2000
ED
TUR
FEA
New to market. 3 Staterooms. Excellent
family or liveaboard cruiser. GPS,
Autopilot, CD, much more.
From $129,000.
NO
MO
An excellent performance cruiser designed by Bruce Farr. Owner’s layout, centerline
queen berth forward with a private ensuite head w/shower. Two guest cabins also
feature private heads w/showers. Complete electronics package included
make this boat ready to sail away. Incredibly priced from $149,000.
Great weekend and distance cruiser.
Complete electronics, autopilot,
refrigeration, and more.
Asking $89,000.
Select Brokerage
f
“ B o a t oa r
e
Y
the
”
Winner
EXCLUSIVE DEALERS
Purchase a new Leopard catamaran,
fast and agile, built for bluewater
cruising, designed for your comfort.
Loaded with standard equipment. Choose
from our optional owner’s layouts.
www.leopardcatamarans.com
42’ Beneteau Oceanis 42CC 2003 LOADED! private owner . .$229,000
36’ Beneteau Oceanis 361 2000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$89,000
33’ Beneteau Oceanis 332 2000 Ready to cruise, best value . . . .$69,000
Catamarans
55’ Lagoon completely refit 2003/2004 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$540,000
47’ Leopard 2004..Owner’s suite..Better than new..Loaded! . .$539,000
45’ Leopard 1999 Crew maintained w/gen & air . . . . . . . . . .$329,000
45’ Privilege 1995, Gen, Air, H20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$319,000
43’ Leopard 2005, Owner’s version, LOADED!! . . . . . . . . . .$479,000
42’ Leopard 2001…charter management-call for details . . . . .$299,000
38’ Leopard 2000…LOADED! w/A/C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$209,000
38’Voyage 2001, solar/wind, SSB, Loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$249,000
37’ Fountain Pajot Maryland Powercat 1999 Refit 2004 . . . .$199,000
Own your yacht the smart way! Footloose Sailing Charters is a subsidiary of The Moorings,
with a fleet consisting of former Moorings yachts between 5 and 8 years old based in Tortola.These
yachts are offered at great prices through our ownership program, with up to 9 weeks of cruising
each year, no operating or maintenance expenses and attractive guaranteed monthly income.
For details call 1-800-850-4081 or visit www.footloosecharters.com.
BROKERAGE
WWW.MOORINGSBROKERAGE.COM
BROKERAGE
(954) 767-4577 • Fax: (954) 767-4580
1047 SE 17th Street • Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316
E-mail: yachts@SGA-Yachts.com Website: www.SGA-Yachts.com
RE PR
DU ICE
CE
D
1989 Endeavour 42
Well equipped and comfortable cruiser.
AP, A/C, Radar, new main, tanks removed and
inspected in 2004
1989 Hylas 44
Beautiful Frer’s designed cruising yacht in excellent
condition equipped for cruising. Watermaker, radar,
SSB, RIB dinghy w Outboard. Priced to sell!
1977 Fisher 46
Beautiful world cruiser in excellent condition.
New engine, A/C, Generator, AP
Watermaker. Classic luxury at an affordable price!
1982 Tyler Cutter
Perfect live aboard/island cruiser. Centerline queen
berth Radar, autopilot, davits, SSB, new standing
rigging, Twin keels, clean and ready to do!
1980 Passport 40
Classic Perry designed cruiser in excellent condition
Thoroughly refit from new standing rigging to all new
electronics. Even a Monitor steering vane.
1983 Hans Christian 33
Beatiful, traditional Cruiser equipped to see the
world AP, A/C, Radar, monitor wind vane, SSB, and
much more.
RE PR
DU ICE
CE
D
RE PR
DU ICE
CE
D
T H I S M O N T H ’ S F E A T U R E D YA C H T S
2000 Tayana 48
Excellent world cruiser. Fully equipped with all the
stuff and in excellent conditions. AP, radar, plotter,
generator And too much to list.
1993 Tartan 4600
Beautiful well equipped performance cruiser Gen,
A/C, AP, Radar, SSB, H2O maker, Max Prop, new
Awlgrip and much more.
1974 Morgan OI 51
Large comfortable live aboard/cruising yacht With
many new upgrades. Gen,A/C, AP and much more
Priced right for a 51 foot yacht.
1981 Lord Nelson 41
Excellent blue water cruising yacht. Fully equipped
and ready to circumnavigate. Wind vane, autopilot,
SSB, Radar and much more.
1990 Hunter Passage 42
Well maintained, never chartered comfortable cruiser.
A/C, gen, and many other amenities making this boat
cruise ready.
1984 Stamas 44
Large strong comfortable cruising yachts Shoal draft,
Dual A/C, AP, SSB, ideal boat for family island
cruisin.
1989 Tayana 42
Fully equipped yacht in excellent condition. Ready to
cruise, with all requirement met for Passage making.
1998 Hunter 410
Low hours, lightly used. Gen, A/C, GPS/Plotter, AP
and much more. Virtually a new boat.
1968 Le Comte Northeast 38
Comfortable well made cruiser in nice condition.
Navico 8000 hydraulic autopilot. Garmin 75 GPS and
more. Good value under $50K
“WE
BELIEVE THE PURCHASE (OR SALE) OF YOUR YACHT SHOULD BE
A PLEASANT AND NON-STRESSFUL EXPERIENCE. OUR POLICY IS
TO INTERACT WITH EACH AND EVERY CLIENT TO THE HIGHEST
STANDARDS OF PROFESSIONALISM AND INTEGRITY. THE SGA TEAM
WILL WORK TO ENSURE THESE GOALS ARE MET. AS MEMBERS OF
THE FLORIDA YACHT BROKERS ASSOCIATION, WE TAKE OUR CODE
OF ETHICS VERY SERIOUSLY. THIS MEANS, AS A CLIENT, YOU KNOW
WE WILL ALWAYS BE WORKING IN YOUR BEST INTERESTS.”
128
SELECT YACHTS AVAILABLE
1977 Fisher 46 ..............................................................$229,000
1984 Stamas 44 .............. .............................................$140,000
1989 Catalina 42...........................................................$109,000
1989 Endeavour 42.......................................................$144,500
1985 Endeavour 42.......................................................$119,000
1990 Passage 42............................................................$119,000
1979 Morgan OI 41 ........................................................$74,900
1993 Beneteau 400............................................................CALL
1986 HUNTER 40..........................................................$69,000
1999 Catalina 380.........................................................$134,000
1968 NE 38.....................................................................$46,000
QUALITY LISTINGS WANTED!
MANY OTHER YACHTS
AVAILABLE!
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
BROKERAGE
NEW 46
RIA
V
A
B A AWAY
SAIL ,000
$220
Yacht Sales
New Bavaria 46, 4 cabins, 2 heads, 2006 ONLY $220,000. Delivered, commissioned
and ready to sail inc. anti-foul paint, anchor package, CD Stereo, VHF, safety pack.
w w w. h o r i z o n y a c h t c h a r t e r s . c o m
British Virgin Islands • Grenada • Antigua • Puerto Rico • St. Martin
Authorized Dealers
Approved Agents
• TAX FREE PURCHASE
• TRY BEFORE YOU BUY – CHARTER A YACHT, IF YOU BUY WE WILL REFUND YOUR CHARTER FEE
• PRIVATE PURCHASE OR CHARTER MANAGEMENT - NEW & USED YACHTS
TE
PRIVA E OR
S
A
• YEAR ROUND SAILING SEASON
H
PURC
TER
CHAR MENT
GE
MANA
BROKERAGE YACHTS, ALL YACHTS FULLY LOADED FOR CHARTER OR CRUISING
All including RIB dinghy and O/B, 2000W inverter (on 36'+), charger, bimini, full inventory, ready to cruise
Bavaria 32 (2C/1H) 2001/2
From $69,000 Based BVI
Bavaria 34 (2C/1H) 2000
$79,900 Based BVI
Bavaria 36 (2 or 3C/1H) 2002/5
From $115,000 Based BVI
Deal of the Month – $110,000
Bavaria 37 (3C/1H) 2000
$89,000 REDUCED Based BVI
Bavaria 36 (3C/1H) 2003
$119,000 Based Antigua
Bavaria 38 (2C/1H) 2005 Model
$160,000 REDUCED Based Grenada
Bavaria 42 (3C/1H) 2005
$225,000 Based Grenada
Bavaria 46 (4C/2H) 2006 Model
$285,000 Based BVI - MANY UPGRADES
Hunter 460 (3C/2H) 2000
$189,000 Based Grenada
Phone (284) 494 8787 • Toll Free 877 494 8787 • Fax (284) 494 8989
info@horizonyachtcharters.com P.O.Box 11156, St Thomas USVI 00801
BROKERAGE
LOCATED
AT
LAUDERDALE MARINE CENTER
2019 SW 20th St., Suite 220, Ft. Laud., FL 33315
Tel: (954) 522-8650 • Fax: (954) 522-4342
E-mail: jordanship@aol.com
www.jordanyachtandship.com
www.jordanyachts.com
www.jordanyacht.com
FRERS DESIGNED HYLAS 46 - 3 TO CHOOSE FROM
1996 – New paint/ rigging/ beautiful interior $373K
1995 – 46' Standard rig, well maintained, shoal draft $310K
1995 – In-mast furling, gen, electric winches, shoal draft,
1 owner, $350K
49' HYLAS 2000
Custom build. In-mast furling, gen, air, 316 stainless
throughout, three cabins, 88hp Yanmar, top condition.
Price reduced to $449K.
51' JEANNEAU 1992
4 cabin layout with 4 heads with showers and crew cabin
forward. 88hp Yanmar with 200hours since rebuilt. This
Bruce Farr design will please any sailor, fast and stiff with
a lovely teak interior. Call us for details. Asking $225K.
57' SWAN CENTERBOARD KETCH 1981
Northern Light 8k KW genset, Perkins 85hp diesel,
Hydraulic furling, great sail inventory, New B&G
instruments, autopilot, plotter,etc. Over 70K in
improvements in 2003. Rare centerboard model with 7'
draft BU. Fantastic performance and quality. Asking $399K.
50 MIKELSON CUTTER 1986
It is rare that I can say this boat is a 9.9. Garden designed
this great seaworthy vessel. 3 cabins /2 heads. 135hp
lehman with low hours. New teak decks, complete
revarnishing of the int., exterior. Beautiful interior of solid
teak, raised salon with great airiness. Asking only $295K
52' IRWIN 1981 KETCH
Great 3-cabin, 2-head vessel. Fully A/C. Large queen cabin
w/stall shower. Twin forward cabin, large V berth cabin.
Shoal draft w/5'6". watermaker, self tailing 48 Lewmar
winches, New Profurl. All the gear to do some serious
sailing in a great liveaboard ocean vessel Asking $179K.
44 HYLAS 1989
Never chartered two cabin two heads layout. Standard
mainsail with Yanmar main engine with low hours.
Davits and RIB dinghy, large refrigeration. Frers
designed this vessel and Queen long is the builder to
high standards. She is in great shape. Asking $175K.
54 C&C PILOT HOUSE CUTTER 1984
Solid offshore feel. Raised salon with 3 cabins 2
heads. Inside steering along with aft cockpit steering.
Loaded with gear, Perkins 4-236 main w/only 750 hrs.
20KW Onan genset w/ 450 hrs. New batteries, Large
tankage 300 gallons of water & fuel. Asking $250K.
48' TAYANA CUTTER 2000
A great boat & a great deal, all the gear, Caribe dinghy, OB,
7.5 Gen, A/C, Stainless ports, W/D, low hour 75hp
Yanmar Diesel, in-boom furling main, all furling sail system.
Pullman cabin forward. Queen berth aft. Stall showers,
swim platform. See Jordanyachts.com. Asking ONLY $350K.
41' WAUQUIEZ 1995
Ed Dubois has designed a lot of great sailboats and this
one is at the top of the list. Shoal draft 6' 43hp Volvo, low
hrs, cruise at 7kts. 2 heads/2 SR. Great electronics from
Trimble Inmarsat C transceiver ,GPS, ST 7000 Raytheon
AP, Heart inverter, GPS & more. Asking $175K.
46' TARTAN 4600 1996
Spacious saloon with the warmth of Cherry, 3 sleeping
strms, 2 heads, & complete cruising galley. Tartan quality,
satellite phone/email, life raft, davits, 2 AC units & more.
Chart plotter, GPS, & radar. Tartan sailing performance.
A beautiful boat priced for quick sale. Asking: $275K
44 CSY WALKOVER CUTTER 1978
In mast electric furling, electric furling on
headsail,New paint job on hull and deck in 2005,
Genset, Air/conditioning, Autopilot, repowered larger
diesel with low hours, first class condition, and shoal
draft. ASKING $109K.
SISTERSHIP
4750 EXPLORER CUTTER 2000
42' NASSAU / TATOOSH 1984
58' STEEL PH KETCH 1966/89
Built by Hans Christian designed by Chuck Paine. This is
Complete refit 2005. New Paint, sails, air conditioning,
Rare find on today’s market built by Cammenga in Holland
a high quality limited production ocean island cruiser. 3
electronics, cushions, canvas. New Hood furling. All
designed by Van de Mere. Classic configuration that has
cabins 2 heads, AC, Leisure Furl in boom furling.
new varnish. Skeg hung rudder. Two staterooms.
had an ongoing refit since her owner acquired her in 1978.
Beautiful solid teak interior w/design & function that is
Robert Perry designed this fast cruiser. Passport
Hull was gutted & replated where necessary, new wires
rarely seen in production boats. One of the best vessels
quality interior. Ready to go. Asking $149K
& plumbing, new 150hp Isuzu main engine, 20KW
we have had the pleasure to represent. Asking $575K.
genset, bow thruster. 3 cabins, 2 heads. Asking $185K.
42' Pearson 1983. Center cockpit, two cabins, two heads, gen ....................................................$75,000
56' Sundeer 1994. Bow thruster, great sailing machine, constantly upgraded ............Only $450,000
42' Alden Caravelle Yawl 1969. 100 hrs on dsl, complete refit int. & ext. Great condition ......$99,000
52' Endeavour Sloop 1992. Three cabins, two autopilots, gear .............................. Asking $199,000
40' Hunter Legend 1986, Island queen aft cabin ........................................................ Asking $69,000
51' Formosa 1979, New paint, rebuilt engine with 10 hours, new rigging, no teak decks ..$195K
40' O‘Day Sloop 1986. Owner model in top shape.....................................................................$84,000
50' FD. 12 Cutter New 100hp Yanmar, genset, 3 cabin layout. Great vessel ........Asking $115,000
39' Vagabond PH 1976. No teak decks. Good gear. ....................................................Asking $69,500
46' Morgan 1984, Gen, Air, two cabins, two heads, Great condition ......................Reduced to $119K
38' Morgan Sloop 1980. total refit unbelievable condition ........................................Asking $69,000
43' Elan Sloop 1990. Four cabin, like new condition, paint, sails etc. ..............................Only $99,000
33' Dakota Catamaran 2002. Really fast ......................................................................Asking $89,000
443 Beneteau Oceanis 1992. Farr design 3 cabin Clean ....................................................................$149,000
Rob Jordan • Tom Harney • Al Bullard • Pepper Rodda • Jim Hunter
130
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
BROKERAGE
1983 HINCKLEY SOU’WESTER 42 SLOOP
SAZIE is a one owner Sou’wester 42 with Aristo Blue
topsides. Low engine hours on a rebuilt Westerbeke 52
diesel engine. Dinette layout in varnished mahogany
interior plan that sleeps up to 7. Autopilot, Max prop,
Great Price! Located SW Harbor, ME. $299,000.
1965 HINCKLEY 41 SLOOP
FLY-N-FINN is a sailor’s full keel sailboat with wheel
steering developed for speed, seaworthiness, and cruising
comfort. Good upwind performance. Nice, clean, with
recent Black Awlgrip, mahogany int., good electronics +
nice ext. varnish. SW Harbor, Maine. Asking $134,000.
1976 HINCKLEY 43 SLOOP
SEA MISTRESS, forget about the year she was
launched. This Hinckley came back to SW Harbor in
2002 for a complete refit - “a jewel” for our 75th
Rendezvous. Many upgrades, she should be considered
by anyone who appreciates the best. Asking $420,000
987 TASHIBA 40 SLOOP
WEATHERBIRD has got to be the nicest Tashiba 40 in the
country. Recent upgrades include custom Metallic Blue
Awlgrip (2002), etc, many custom and standard options.
Always Hinckley maintained. One of the most spacious 40’
sailboats. Beautifully detailed. Maine. $198,000.
1969 HINCKLEY BERMUDA 40 CUSTOM YAWL.
EURYTHMY is a nice older Bermuda 40 that has been
sailed and loving cared for by her owners for the past 15
years or more. She sleeps 6, has a tiled solid fuel stove,
and is nicely equipped for new adventures. Winter
indoor stored. Mt. Desert, ME. Asking $165,000
1991 HINCKLEY SOU’WESTER 43 SLOOP
UJJAYI is one of 5 Sou’wester 43’s built. She has a carbon fiber mast, air-conditioning, genset and nice electronics. The separate stall shower is a great feature
and the cherry interior is beautiful as is the Flag Blue
Awlgrip. Located SW Harbor, ME. Asking $525,000.
1979 HINCKLEY SOU’WESTER 50 YAWL
CAHOOTS, a 3-stateroom 50 with major refit in 2002.
New varnish + paint inside/out, rebuilt engine, stoway
main/mizzen, new Awlgrip (02), new electronics, Air
conditioning (2). A great boat, lovingly cared for with
numerous upgrades. Jupiter, FL $525,000.
1986 HINCKLEY SOU’WESTER 51
GULLIVER has always had the best of owners and is
Captain maintained. She has been Hinckley Service
maintained in “Bristol” fashion. Stoway and SeaFurl,
teak deck, 1999 engine, French ash interior, AC, generator, etc. Located in Portsmouth, RI. Asking $599,000.
1974 HINCKLEY BERMUDA 40 MK II YAWL
BITTERSWEET is a Black MK II with a standard interior layout. An excellent value at the price listed. Zipstop main sail system. Located in SWH, Maine and
easily shown. Asking $159,000.
ALSO
AVAILABLE
More Popular Hinckley Models*
2001 HINCKLEY PICNIC BOAT
MAINE EVENT is hull #181 in Jade Mist Green
Awlgrip. She has low 210 hours on her 420-hp engine
and is reverse-cycle heat//air conditioned. Great
shape. Call for more details. Located in SW Harbor,
ME. $375,000
2002 HINCKLEY PICNIC BOAT EP
PIPE DREAMS is #237 with Mahogany Awlgrip hull,
varnished teak transom and 440-hp engine with 452
eng/hours. This is a nice boat with all her service
completed and indoor stored. Owner moving up to a
larger Hinckley. SW Harbor, Maine. Asking $450,000
Pilot 35 ........................................$ 125 K - 129 K
Hinckley 38 ..................................$ 65 K - 115 K
Bermuda 40 ..................................$119 K - 339 K
Hinckley 41 ..................................
$134 K
Sou’wester 42 ..............................$298 K - 495 K
Hinckley 43/SW43........................$195 K - 649 K
Hinckley 49 ..................................$169 K - 293 K
Sou’wester 50 ..............................$350 K - 525 K
Sou’wester 51 ..............................$550 K - 765 K
Sou’wester 52 ..............................$795 K - 1.35 M
Sou’wester 59 ..............................$675 K - 1.6 M
Talaria 42 ......................................$385 K - 399 K
Talaria 29 Jet ................................$289 K - 319 K
Picnic Boats..................................$245 K - 499 K
Talaria 40 Jet ................................$790 K - 975 K
Talaria 44 Jet ................................$825 K - 1.195 M
*Many Other Select Listings On Quality Yachts
2004 HINCKLEY TALARIA 40 CRUISER
BEAU is a beautiful Stars and Stripes Blue T-40 with
water-jet drive and twin 440-hp engines. She has
reverse-cycle heat- air conditioning, a generator,
OceanAir Skyscreen, and Stidd pilothouse seats and
more. Excellent condition. Stuart, FL. $900,000
2004 HINCKLEY TALARIA 44 FLYBRIDGE
GRACE: An exceptional T-44, with the flybridge option,
GRACE is arguably one of the most beautiful Hinckleys
ever built within this model range. Meticulously detailed
with the best - both in equipment and systems. She
never fails to turn heads. Portsmouth, RI $1,195,000
BROKERAGE
Hallberg-Rassy
NEW ENGLAND DEALERSHIP
SABRE 426 FLAG BLUE on display. Shallow
draft, Cheery, Corian, Ultrasuede.
SABRE 32. 1990 Keel Centerboard sloop
Excellent equipment and condition. On Display.
Eastland Yachts have specialized in Hallberg-Rassy
Nonsuch. Eagle Trawlers. Motorsailors and many
cruising yachts. On this page are some of the listings
that we currently have listed. We have many more.
Please give us a call.
www.eastlandyachts.com
SABRE 386. Spring Delivery Flag Blue, Shallow
draft, Air condition, Corian, Ultrasuede.
SABRE 36. 1987 Keel Centerboard Sloop, little
use, great condition. On display.
SABRE 42. 1988 Keel Centerboard Sloop
Excellent condition and great accommodations.
HALLBERG-RASSY 342. 2006 New Frers design. Specified with all important options and available to sail in May of 2006. Europe boat of the year.
HR 42. 1999 Frers design, Fresh water boat, low hrs. Bow thruster, easy chairs
El winches, mast furling, all electronics, deep freeze. Two heads, like new.
NORSEMAN 400. Fast stable yacht with perfect interior. Must be seen. In excellent condition.
CABO RICO 38 1998, full keel, all imaginable
equipment in A-10 boat show condition. On display.
HOOD 51 CUSTOM YAWL. Twin Diesels
Wonderful finish, three cabin. Special.
CENTER COCKPIT. A Treasure. Custom 3 year
restoration by famous cabinet maker Thom. Moser.
NORTHEAST 400 Perhaps the best NE400 ever
listed. Perfect cosmetically, & the best equipment.
PACIFIC SEACRAFT 32 PILOT HOUSE. In
New condition – little use Exc. Care.
NONSUCH
Nonsuch 33................................ 1992
Nonsuch 352 ..............................1995
Nonsuch 30U ..........................loaded
Nonsuch 30U ........................Display
Nonsuch 26U ......................Excellent
Nonsuch 26 ....................Classic Exc.
“NONSUCH Spoken Here”. We have the best
Nonsuch listings.
42 BREWER. 1991 Custom, Aluminum hull,
Cherry int. fabulous. Blue water. Loaded.
SPECIAL BROKERAGE LISTINGS
Hallberg Rassy 53 – On display
Hood 51 Yawl – Three cabin, Exc. Boat
Hallberg Rassy 41 1978 – Like new
Mercer 44 – Classic, restoration ‘03
Morgan OI 41- Ketch, on display
Baba 40 – Local and on display
Northeast 400 1997 – Excellent
Custom Motorsailor 40 – Extraordinary
Wauquiez 38 – Excellent, by appointment
Cabo Rico 38 1998 – On display, perfect
Sabre 36 – Escellent, local
Nonsuch 36 – 1992 Last one built – Best ever
Hallberg Rassy 352 – 1984 On display Essex
Niagara 35 – Classic, Local (2)
Niagara 35 – Encore, a must see
Bristol 35.5 – 1982 – Nice boat. Nice gear
Sabre 34 – 1990 – Excellent – On display
Nonsuch 33 1989 – On display
Nonsuch 33 – 1992 special boat – best 33
Nonsuch 354 – 1995 Carbon mast & boom - local
www.eastlandyachts.com
EASTLAND
Nonsuch 30 – Ultra (2)
Nonsuch 26 – Ultra N26, display
Niaid 18 (Little Nonsuch) – Display
POWER
Elco 38 1937 – 2003 restoration
Custom Down East 36 – Must be seen
Duffy 21 Electric – Trailer, winter cover. In new
condition. Great river boat and on display.
Limeston 20 – Excellent – Little use - Local
eyi@eastlandyachts.com
YACHTS INC.
33 Pratt Street • Essex, CT 06426 • 860-767-8224 • Fax: 860-767-9094
BROKERAGE
N FS
in US
Waters
N FS
in US
Waters
2002 Custom Brazapi 50'
$519,000
2000 57' Lagoon 570
$899,000
2001 57' Lagoon 570
$1,250,000
2000 Fountaine Pajot 56’
$825,000
2003 FP Bahia Maestro 46'
459,000 Euros (Owner’s Version)
2002 Shuttleworth Adv. 44'
$305,000
1998 43' Voyage Yachts Voyage 430
$309,000
2003 43' Lagoon Power
$589,000
2003 Dean Aero 44'
$425,000
2003 38' Admiral
$245,000
Just d
Reduce
Just d
Reduce
2002 Dean Espace 44'
$369,000
2001 55' Wormwood Ocean
$900,000
1999 Wharram 63
170,000 Euros
2002 37' Fountaine Pajot Maryland
$315,000
1994 FP Tobago 35'
$149,000
1996 Dufour Nautitech 475
$245,000
1991 Custom Waarschip 48'
$259,000
2003 42' Manta Cruising Catamaran
$335,000
1993 Lagoon 47'
$315,000
2003 41' Lagoon 410 S2
$415,000
BROKERAGE
OYSTER 72 - OYSTERCATCHER XXV
Taking the winning gun in the Rolex / RYS Race Around the Isle of Wight 2005
NEW NEW
NEW
46
49
53
56
62
655
68
72
82
The World’s Your Oyster
After 30 years in the business, the defining features of an Oyster are as recognisable today as they were over a quarter of a century ago.
Design, build quality, after sales service and good value set Oyster apart.
Contact Robin Campbell for full information on new build Oysters from 46 to 82 feet.
www.oystermarine.com
OYSTER
B RO K E R A G E
F e a t u r e d
2004 Oyster 82
Flagship of the Oyster Fleet.
5 Stateroom Interior, MCA
Western Med
1996 Oyster 70
World Cruiser
5 Stateroom Teak Interior
Newport
Y a c h t s
2001 Oyster 62
5 Cabin layout, In-boom performance
Comprehensively equipped, Immaculate!
East Coast
1998 Oyster 56
Professionally maintained to
high standard. GreatBuy! Newport
2000 & 2002 Also available
Sistership Photo
2000 Oyster 53
Shoal draft 6’ with many offshore
extras. Perfect! Offers encouraged.
Hilton Head, S.C.
2004 Oyster 49
Extensively equipped with electric
main and headsail. Owner moving up!
Lying Tortola
2000 Oyster 485
2 Cabin, Cherry Interior, 6’ Draft
ICW capable. Impeccable!
Newport
1988 Oyster Lightwave 48
2 Cabin, New Awlgrip
Fast cruiser, Offers! - Rhode Island
1989 in San Francisco
This is a small selection of yachts available in the U.S. and Caribbean.
Please call Bob Marston in Newport for full details.
www.oysterbrokerage.com
OYSTER BROKERAGE
FOX’S MARINA IPSWICH SUFFOLK
IP2 8SA ENGLAND
TEL: +44 (0) 1473 602263 FAX: +44 (0) 1473 603192
EMAIL: yachts@oystermarine.com
OYSTER MARINE USA
5 MARINA PLAZA GOAT ISLAND
NEWPORT RI 02840 USA
TEL: +1 401 846 7400 FAX: +1 401 846 7483
EMAIL: info@oysteryachts.com
BROKERAGE
Clients Français Bienvenus!
Your South Florida Dealer for...
See the NEW Boats we offer at www.easternyachts.net
2
I N
S T O C K
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0
5
N O W
'05 Beneteau 323, A/C Sailaway ..............................$94,495
C
L
E
A
R
A
N
C
E
S
A
L
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'05 Beneteau 473, 76hp Yanmar, A/C, Sailaway ....$293,265
'05 Hunter 31, Mariner Package, A/C, Sailaway ....$102,340
'05 Beneteau 323, Swing Keel, A/C, Sailaway........$106,930
'05 Hunter 33, Mariner Package, A/C, Sailaway .... $112,810
'05 Beneteau 393, 54hp Yanmar upgrade, A/C,Sailaway ..$176,900
'05 Hunter 36, Mariner Package, A/C, Sailaway ....$148,775
2006 Catalina 309.................................New Model on Order
'05 Hunter 38, Mariner Package, A/C, Sailaway ....$183,760
2006 Catalina 350
2000 Beneteau 362
Loaded, A/C, Autopilot, Sailaway
Lying West Coast. Only $95k.
$173,680
Call Michel Benarrosh @ 917.331.7665.
FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER
2 0 0 6
I N
S T O C K
2006 Hunter 41DS, Mariner Package, Vertical Battens, A/C, Sailaway ........................................................$237,500
2006 Catalina 34, autopilot, ultraleather, full electronics ..............................................................................$143,350
2006 Catalina 350, loaded, A/C. Autopilot, Sailaway ..................................................................................$173,680
2006 Catalina 400, loaded, A/C, radar, Autopilot, Sailaway ........................................................................$249,665
1993 Morgan 38 CC
Only $125k.
Call Fokke @ 561.351.7333
2006 Hunter 41 DS
Mariner Package, Vertical Battens,
A/C, Sailaway, $237,500
2002 Lagoon 410
Never titled or used! Call Michel
Benarrosh @ 917.331.7665.
2002 Catalina 380
Like new. Call Doug Prince @
305.742.3070.
2005 Hunter 38
A/C, Mariner Package, Sailaway
$183,760
2005 Beneteau 323
C.B. version and keel version.
In Stock!
1989 Hallberg-Rassy type 43
1995 Morgan 45
Immaculate. Call Fokke Dejong @
561.351.7333. $195,000.
1990 Taswell 43
1991 Beneteau 440
1991 Huntingford 45
2000 Leopard 45
2 s.r., air, gen. Call John Byrnes
@ 954.303.7034.
Try $95,000. Call
Matthew @ 561.876.8939.
Ketch. Lying West Coast.
Call Matthew @ 561.876.8939.
Proven blue-water cruiser. Only $279k.
Call Michel Benarrosh at 917.331.7665.
Loaded. Only $139k! Call
John Byrnes @ 954.303.7034.
2006 Beneteau 57
Arrives FL early Nov. Call
John Byrnes 954.303.7034
2000 Beneteau 463
1993 Beneteau 50
2001 Beneteau 50
Three available from $149k.
Call Michel Benarrosh @ 917.331.7665.
5 s.r./5 heads. Try $139k.
Call Gary @ 954.609.6282.
Owners Version. Try offer at $340k.
Call Matt at 561.876.8939.
1999 Lagoon 57
$699,000. Contact Michel
Benarrosh @ 917.331.7665.
2003 Prout 70 Catamaran
Exc. Opportunity. $1.3M. Call Michel
Benarrosh @ 917.331.7665.
1966 Rhodes 71 Ketch
1987 Helleman 72’
1992 Dynamique 80
Lotta boat for the money. Try $185k.
Call John Byrnes @ 954.303.7034.
Go anywhere. Try offer at $400k.
Call Doug @ 305.742.3070.
Sexy Briand design. Only $575,000!
Call Michel 917.331.7665.
2005 Catalina 504
4 S.R. great for charter.
SEE DETAILS ON 22,235 USED SAILING YACHTS AT WWW.EASTERNYACHTS.NET
SELLING? CONTACT US FOR A FREE, NO-OBLIGATION APPRAISAL. WE NEED LISTINGS!
VISIT OUT YEAR-ROUND BOAT SHOW AT OUR PALM BEACH FACILITY. SEE US AT SAIL EXPO ST. PETE, FL NOV. 3-6
2182 S.E. 17th Street Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33316 • 954-828-9071 • Fax 954-828-9075
1177 Avenue C. Riviera Beach, FL 33404 • Phone 561-844-1100 • Fax 561-844-8946
yachts3@attglobal.net • www.easternyachts.net
BROKERAGE
Cruising Boat Headquarters
New & Brokerage
Call today for yacht specifications and availability —
many are at our docks now.
www.easternyacht.com
MA RI
MA
MA
8' — 50'
47' — 64'
Massachusetts 781-749-8600
25'
26'
27'
27'
28'
28'
28'
29'
29'
29'
30'
30'
32'
32'
32'
33'
33'
34'
34'
34'
34'
34'
35'
35'
35'
Catalina from . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,200
Catalina Capri 26 1991 . . . . . . . .14,900
Seasprite 1983 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16,000
Isl. Packet 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39,900
Catalina 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33,900
Oday 1983 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19,000
Cape Dory 1976 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16,500
Isl. Packet 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79,500
Ericson 1977 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16,900
J Boat 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32,000
Catalina 5 from . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15,500
Pearson 1974 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12,500
Columbia Sabre 1967 . . . . . . . . . .12,900
Catalina 320 2002 . . . . . . . . . . . .92,500
Hunter 320 2001 . . . . . . . . . . . . .79,500
Beneteau 331 2001 . . . . . . . . . . . .89,500
Pearson 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49,700
34’ Hunter 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32,500
Pearson 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44,900
Tartan 1972 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24,900
Catalina MKII 2005 NEW . . . .In Stock
Catalina MKII from . . . . . . . . . . .89,000
Isl. Packet from . . . . . . . . . . . . .124,900
Catalina 350 2005 NEW . . . . .In Stock
Isl. Packet 350 1999 . . . . . . . . . .180,000
2001 Moody 46
2000 Catalina 380
2001 Tartan 3700
36'
36'
36'
36'
37'
37'
37'
38'
38'
39'
39'
40'
42'
42'
42'
42'
42'
43'
44'
44'
44'
44'
46'
47'
48'
MA RI
32' — 54'
37' — 48'
Catalina 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47,500
Pearson 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72,500
Catalina MKII 1995 . . . . . . . . . .94,900
Catalina MKII 2002 . . . . .from 128,000
Isl. Packet 1997 . . . . . . . . . . . . .165,000
Isl. Packet 370 2005 . . . . . . . . .In Stock
Tartan 2001 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$242,000
Catalina 380 1998 . . . . . . . . . . .139,500
Hinckley 1970 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65,000
Pearson 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115,000
Dehler 2001 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209,000
Oday 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72,500
Catalina 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123,900
Catalina 42MKII 2005 NEW . .In Stock
Isl. Packet 420 2005 NEW . . . .In Stock
Pearson 424 1978 . . . . . . . . . . . . .84,900
Allied XL 1972 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92,500
Jeanneau DS 2005 NEW . . . . . .In Stock
Islander 1976 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51,900
Vanderstadt Pimpernel 1970 . . . .39,900
Isl. Packet 440 NEW 2006 . . . .In Stock
Catalina Morgan NEW 2005 . . .In Stock
Moody 2001 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .479,000
Catalina 470 2005 NEW . . . . . .In Stock
Isl. Packet 485 2006 NEW . . . .In Stock
Rhode Island 401-683-2200
27' Vancouver 1981...........................................35,500.00
27' O'Day Sloop - REDUCED! 1989 ...............15,000.00
28' Catalina - NEW!! 2006.............................IN STOCK
30' Catalina 1990 .............................................37,500.00
30' Catalina 1988 ..............................................32,000.00
31' Catalina 310 - NEW 2005 ...................................Sold
31' Pearson 1987...............................................49,900.00
31' Beneteau 1991.............................................49,000.00
32' Catalina 1996 ..............................................69,000.00
34' Catalina - REDUCED!! 2005 ...................120,000.00
34' Catalina 1986 ..............................................59,500.00
35' Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2003.....................117,000.00
35' Pearson Alberg 1961 ...................................22,000.00
37' Tartan 37.2 1990 .......................................137,900.00
40' Catalina 400 - NEW!! 2006 .....................IN STOCK
42' Beneteau 1985.............................................87,000.00
42' Hunter 2003 ..............................................214,000.00
44' Catalina Morgan 440 - NEW 2005...........IN STOCK
49' Jeanneau Deck Salon - NEW 2005 .........IN STOCK
46' Jeanneau Prestige 46 - NEW 2005...........IN STOCK
Catalina 440
Jeanneau 49 DS
Jeanneau introduces
Power 32' – 46'
Prestige 46
1987 Pearson 36
Catalina 350
1997 Island Packet 37
Jeanneau 40.3
Jeanneau 43 DS
2005 Jeanneau 43 DS
Jeanneau 49
Jeanneau 54
335 Lincoln St., Hingham, MA 02043
Fax: 781-740-4149 • sales@easternyacht.com
Catalina 387
39 Alexander Rd., Portsmouth, RI 02871
Fax: 401-683-0961 • eysportsmouth@easternyacht.com
BROKERAGE
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
137
BROKERAGE
Southern Trades
Southern
Trades
Caribbean Yacht Sales
www.southerntrades.com
Box 6, Village Cay Marina, Road Town, Tortola, BVI
284-494-8003, 8009 fax • email: southerntrades@surfbvi.com
75' Ron Holland aluminum ketch. Stunning 10
guest plus crew layout in excellent condition. This
yacht is in a turn key successful charter program.
NEW LISTING asking $750,000
56' Dufour Sloop ‘94. 5 cabins + crew. US
Documented, Upgraded from charter over the last
2 years. Shows very nice. REDUCED TO
$239,000/offers!
42' Privilege ‘94. 4 Cabins + 4 heads, galley
down. Gen, A/C, full electronics and a very
well operating charter business $289,000
78' Compound. 78’ Ted Hood designed Lien Hwa
2000 Pilothouse sloop. 10 guests, fully equipped
for successful charter. Extremely motivated seller
has reduced the price on this current model to
$1,245,000/offers
51' Hylas. 51’ Hylas 3 cabin, 2 head sloop ‘91.
Furling boom, bow thruster, water maker, full electronics, teak decks. Shows absolutely great. Perfect family
cruiser. JUST REDUCED TO: $299,000/ offers !
64' Nordia Ketch ‘74. Steel hull in excellent
shape, new generator, 3 doubles plus crew. Fully
equipped blue water cruiser REDUCED TO:
$240,000 in Spain
62' Impulse. 62’ Dynamique ‘94. 4 double cabins + 4
heads. This was the last one built and is offered by the
original owner for the first time. Not one of the models
that has been heavily chartered... fully equipped. Perfect
charter opportunity. Asking $399,000/offers
81' Taboo. ‘81 Custom Raised Salon, Ocean 80
‘94. This yacht can carry up to 10 guests + crew
and still sail at 22 knots! Very custom finish and
includes a very active charter business. $2.2m
All of Our Listings,
With Photos, Are Available
60' Ocean modern schooner. 6 guests + crew. Fully
refit including sails and paint in '01. Recent service and
ready to go. Prior to current private owner, she was very
popular charter yacht. REASONABLY Priced $199,000
on Our Web Site
www.southerntrades.com
76' South African Catamaran NEW. Full width, on deck,
master stateroom. Guest cabins for 6 + 4 crew. All the most
modern materials and equipment. Hull #2 will be in the Miami
Show Feb. '06. #2 is available now either outright or it is offered
for Fractional Ownership. Sole Caribbean Dealer. $3m Euros.
65' Sunset Catamaran ‘99. 10 guests + crew.
A. Simonis design. All new Doyle Carbon sails
9/04, carbon spars. 2 generators, fully equipped for
charter or cruising. $2.5m
60' Gulfstar Raised Salon ‘77. 4 doubles with
private heads. Twin diesels, fully equipped and in
excellent condition. $349,000
68' Casador. 68’ Aluminum cutter by K. Sondergaard (US
built) ‘89. 2 Huge VIP suites + crew. 3 private, ensuite heads.
Fully air conditioned, water maker, washer/dryer, beautiful teak
decks. Absolutely stunning yacht with active charter business.
$649,000 BRING ALL OFFERS
125' Custom Harris schooner '03. 12 guests + 4 crew.
Very economical to operate. Trans Atlantic motor range.
Could be an expedition yacht, excellent luxury crewed
charter yacht, maybe an adventure charter or very
comfortable private world cruiser. Asking $2.95m
58' Voyage. 58’ Voyage catamaran ‘03. All necessary
equipment and toys for continued charter. Extremely busy
charter schedule is possible. This yacht shows as new and
is a distress sale (sistership photo) $1,050,000 firm
45' Fountaine Pajot. 45’ Fountaine Pajot “CASAMANCE”
catamaran ‘89. 4 doubles + 2 large heads. Dive compressor + tanks, raft, large RIB, generator, full elctronics, new
upholstry, new hatches and ports. Shows very well, one of
the better deals on a cat: $229,000/offers
47' Rescator. 47’ Lagoon 470 by CNB 2003. OWNERS VERSION, galley down. Shows as new. The owner has changed his
cruising plans after equipping this yacht with most all options: water
maker, washer/dryer, solar panels, computer and all electronics. His
loss is your gain: $699,000/offers
There’s a
New Standard
when choosing a Yacht
Broker
When you work with a Certified Professional Yacht
Broker, you may do so with the confidence that they
have the experience and knowledge to handle every
facet of a sale. In the business for a minimum of three
years, the Certified Professional Yacht Broker has
passed a rigorous exam, testing his or her knowledge
on tax laws, ethics, escrow accounting, closings, cobrokering and numerous other important details which
are integral to a smooth transaction.
To find out more about the Certified Professional
Yacht Broker program or to locate a CPYB designated
broker near you, go to www.cpyb.net.
Your symbol of Professionalism,
Trust and Integrity
CPYB Partnering Organizations
Yacht Brokers Association of America
Florida Yacht Brokers Association
Northwest Yacht Brokers Association
138
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
BROKERAGE
T A Y A N A
D E A L E R
Cabrillo Yacht Sales
5060 North Harbor Dr.
San Diego, CA 92106
619 / 523-1745
cyachts@pacbell.net
www.cabrilloyachts.com
Tayana’s Newest Model
TAYANA DECK SALON, 64’ SAILING YACHT
Beam: 18’6” Draft: 6’10” Cabins: 4
Cruising Speed: 10 knots Fuel: 650 gallons
Engine: YANMAR 200hp Generator: 15 kw
Designed by Robb Ladd Design Team
The Robb Ladd design combined with Tayana’s high level of quality construction has created a masterpiece of performance and
cruising comfort. The easy sail handling she exhibits comes
through the use of a roller furling boom, fully battened main that
is easily stowed and four electric winches in the cockpit to deploy
and stow all the sails with ease.
Come see, sail and experience this
magnificent new product line!
CUSTOM MODELS:
MODELS:
CUSTOM
37 / 42 / 46 / 48 / 52 / 58 / 64
BROKERAGE
2Hulls, Inc.
GRATITUDE YACHTING CENTER
Dock: 2 Isle of Venice, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33301
Head Office: 4005 N. Federal Hwy. St.200
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33308
Tel. (954) 566-1061 Fax. (954) 727-0024
www.2hulls.com E Mail: info@2hulls.com
Yacht Sales • Brokerage • Sailing School ASA • Chesapeake Charter • Charter Management
ISLAND PACKET YACHTS
27' 1978 NOR'SEA ....................$45,000
38' 2000 LAGOON ..................$237,500
30' 1992 ENDEAVOUR..............€80,000
40' 1974 CUSTOM....................$119,000
31' 1986 GEMINI BOATS ..........$59,000
42' 1990 POLYNESIA ..............$167,000
32' 1990 FOUNTAINE PAJOT $123,000
42' 1987 CUSTOM ..................$225,000
34' 2004 GEMINI BOATS ........$140,000
43' 1997 JOHN MARPLES ........$85,000
34' 2000 PERF. CRUISING ......$117,000
43' 2004 LAGOON ..................$599,500
35' 1999 CUSTOM ..................$139,000
43' 2001 LAGOON ..................$387,000
485 Island Packet
445 Island Packet
445 Island Packet
440 Island Packet
370 Island Packet
45' Cloud 9
40' Second Chance III
40' Aeolus III
40' Lady Lex
38' Valhalla
38' Understanding (C/B)
350 Aloha Wind
350 Sweet Air
350 Liberty
350 Unfazed
36' 1991 BELL CRAFT ............$175,000
45' 1992 FOUNTAINE PAJOT $250,000
36' 1999 DEAN CATS ..............$179,000
45' 1996 PROUT ......................$419,000
36' 1998 PDQ ............................$227,500
47' 1977 VIKING YACHT........$165,000
37' 2004 PRO SPORTS BOATS$189,900
48' 2003 LAGOON ..................$579,000
37' 1992 PROUT ......................$165,000
49' 2004 CUSTOM ..................$550,000
POWER
37' 2001 ISLAND SPIRIT ........$225,000
52' 1999 CUSTOM ..................$485,000
37' 1983 PROUT ........................$96,000
56' 1996 JENCO MARINE ......$395,000
38' 1997 FOUNTAINE PAJOT $199,000
60' 1991 CUSTOM ..................$250,000
38' 1991 PROUT ......................$184,500
108' 2005 CUSTOM ..................€400,000
45' 1997 PROUT ......................€350,000
35' 2002 WILDCAT ..................$180,000
45' 1999 SEA RAY BOATS ......$339,000
In Stock
In Stock
In Stock
New Model
In Stock
$320,000
$224,500
$195,000
$215,000
$159,000*
$ 43,000
$199,000
$179,500
$199,000
$169,000
1971
1989
1985
2000
1984
1981
1981
2005
1981
1982
1982
1995
1984
1999
1998
2002
1970
1994
1985
1995
2003
1997
2002
1924
2000
1979
1978
35' PC Compromise
35' PC Two for the Money
35' Morning Star
35' Gail Warnings
35' Odyssey
35' Fanta Sea
35' Cadenza
32' Black & Tan
32' Manitou
320 Amatuk
320 Avanti
320 Taking Paws
31' Loreley
29' Sandpiper
29' Trafalgar
1997
1996
1990
1992
1991
1989
1994
1991
1990
2002
1998
1999
1985
1993
1991
$189,000
$179,000
$135,000
$128,000
$139,000
$129,900
$149,900
$119,900
$ 94,500*
$179,980
$154,900
$167,900
$ 58,900*
$ 89,000
$ 78,000*
$120,000*
$399,000
$195,000*
$395,000
$198,000
$115,000
$130,000*
$599,000
$118,000*
$129,900
$ 89,900
$184,900
$ 97,000
$245,000
$238,000*
$219,000
$ 69,000
$124,900
TBD
$179,500*
37' Tayana
36' Gozzard
35' O’Day
34' Moody
32' Bristol
32' Bayfield
32' Bristol
31' Allmand
31' O’Day
31' Hunter
30' Catalina
30' S-2 9.2A
30' S-2 9.2A
30' Islander
30' Bristol
28' Precision
28' Sabre
27' Orion
27' Hunter
1985
1986
1987
1984
1983
1987
1979
1982
1986
1985
1986
1978
1980
1975
1973
2002
1975
1983
1981
$ 79,900
$129,000
$ 44,900
$ 49,900*
$ 41,500
$ 40,000
$ 26,000
$ 29,900
$ 38,500
$ 22,900*
$ 27,900
$ 19,900
$ 26,500
$ 23,500
$ 15,750
$ 57,500
$ 14,900
$ 55,000
$ 9,500
$639,000
$287,500
$284,900
$ 30,000
$339,000
$ 69,900
$ 14,500
28' Samson Enterprises
27' Skagit Orca XLC
27' Carver Montego
26' Apex Panga
25' Tracker Tahoe 254
25' Grady White Trophy
24' Four Winns 248 Vista
2001
2003
1988
2005
2004
1985
2000
$
$
$
$
SAIL FIBERGLASS
54' Ferro Cement
52' Kanter
47' Stevens
46' Moody
45' Trintella
45' Hardin/Voyager
43' Endeavour
42' Cabo Rico
42' Whitby
41' Bristol
41' Soverel Cutter
40' Freedom
40' Endeavour
40' Moody
40' Moody
38' Moody
38' Islander
38' Morgan
38' Cabo Rico
37' Crealock
35' 1995 FORTUNA ................$148,000
2005
2005
2006
2006
2005
1996
1997
1994
1996
1993
1988
2000
1997
2002
1999
52' Menorquin 160
40' Willard
36' Menorquin 110
36' Hooper Island Drake
36' Northern Bay
34' Weber Cove
28' Carver
69,000*
84,900
14,000*
43,830
SOLD
$ 24,500
$ 38,900
*Vessels Listed by our Deltaville, VA office
38' 2000 ADMIRAL ................$220,000
VISIT OUR DOCK - UP TO 20 YACHTS
GO FASTER
S LTD
YACHT
345 Lake Ave, Suite G
Santa Cruz, California 95062
831-476-9639 fax 831-476-0141
http://www.fastisfun.com
e-mail: wizard@fastisfun.com
★
●
★
d
r
a
z
i
W
Bill Lee
Dan O’Brien
Tom Carter
Upper Bay: 5990 Lawton Avenue Rock Hall, MD 21661 410/639-7111
Lower Bay: PO Box 969, VA 23043 804/776-7056
Upper Bay E-Mail: gratitude@gratitudeyachting.com
Lower Bay E-Mail: deltaville@gratitudeyaching.com
www.gratitudeyachting.com
●
●
★
PREMIER RETAIL
PARTNER DIRECTORY
BLUE WATER SHIPS STORE
62' Frers PJ aluminum yacht - Very
spacious and well thought interior. Large
master suite, Sail MUCH faster than the typical
cruising boats. Ready to go. $319,000
Santa Cruz 52' - Fastest racer/cruiser,
large cockpit, 2 stateroom, 2 head layout,
past Vic Maui winner. $430,000
Kemah, TX • Ph: 281-334-7583
Foley, AL • Ph: 251-943-4179
www.bluewatershipsstore.com
SAILORMAN NEW & USED MARINE
Ft. Lauderdale, FL • Ph: 800-523-0772
www.sailorman.com
SAILORS EXCHANGE
Santa Cruz 50' - equipped for short
handed - Water ballast, sprit, low hard dodger.
Extensive equipment and sails. $165,000
Santa Cruz 40' - Autopilot, refrigertion,
h/c water, Espar heater, GPS plotter, Radar,
Profurl +++. Pull in the sails and go. $94,500
St. Augustine, FL • Ph: 904-808-0667
www.sailors-exchange.com
SEVEN SEAS
Minneapolis, MN • Ph: 612-879-0600
www.sevenseas-mn.com
Westsail 32 - Sturdy double ender with
nice factory interior. These full keel
bulletproof boats have gone everywhere.
1 year Santa Cruz slip available. $48,000
14 0
36 Pearson Ketch.
Excellent cruising yacht. Delightful
condition. 1 year Santa Cruz sublet.
Diesel. $39,000.
For information on becoming a retail
partner please call Jason at:
1-888-281-5720 x1189
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
Holiday Gift Guide
What your boat needs, chances are you’ll find it in
Cruising World ’s special advertising section
146
Flex-O-Fold
147
www.aquamarineinc.net
781-631-3190
www.flexofold.com
AquaMarine, Inc
800-376-3091
AvXcel, Inc
150
760-295-8842
www.avxcel.com
Boat Leather
142
800-468-9110
www.boatleather.com
C Cushions, Inc
144
800-531-1014
www.ccushions.com
Celestaire, Inc
142
316-686-9785
www.celestaire.com
Cruising Design, Inc
142
607-749-4599
www.sailcdi.com
Cruising Guide Publications
800-330-9542
Dahon California, Inc
626-305-5264
800-678-3669
150
www.docksidemedia.com
Dutchan/MVB Inc
203-838-0375
Edson International
Facnor USA
704-598-1105
141,143-146,148
www.davisnet.com
Dockside Media
508-995-9711
143
www.dahon.com
Davis Instruments
949 756 0900
148
www.cruisingguides.com
143
www.mvbinfo.com
143
www.edsonmarine.com
147
www.facnor.com
Follow Me Company
877-365-5696
146
www.followmetv.com
Furlboom
148
949-642-9530
www.furlboom.com
General Ecology
800-441-8166
149
www.generalecology.com
Glacier Bay, Inc
145
510-437-9100
Ocean Equipment, Inc
949-588-1470
Ocean Marine Systems
800-883-2848
800-241-7751
147
www.boatbeds.com
Para-Tech Engineering Co
800-594-0011
860-345-2685
144
800-348-2769
888-946-3826
146
www.hayn.com
Hotwire Enterprises
727-943-0402
145
www.svhotwire.com
Indel Marine
954-772-8355
146,149
www.indelmarineusa.com
Johnson Marine
860-873-8697
149
www.csjohnson.com
Nautical Gold Creations
148
800-368-5595 www.nauticalgoldcreations.com
Nielsen-Kellerman
800-784-4221
150
www.rparts.com
Sailrite
Scanmar
860-257-0680
150
www.poseysail.com
Refrigeration Parts Solution
203-324-9581
Hayn Enterprises, LLC
144
www.seaanchor.com
Posey Yacht Design
Hathaway, Reiser & Raymond, LLC 144
www.hathaways.com
144
www.oceanmarinesystems.com
www.glacierbay.com
Handcraft Mattress Co
145,149
www.oceanequipment.com
www.sailrite.com
141
www.selfsteer.com
Signet Marine
142
310-320-4342
www.signetmarine.com
Survival Products, Inc
954-966-7329
148
800-568-8979
www.technauticsinc.com
Welcome Aboard
800-295-2469
Unique dispenser holds 32.5’ (10 m)
of tightly wound polyethylene film,
yet fits in the palm of your hand.
Create a bag of any length! Pull
plastic bag material from center of
dispenser, take length you need, cut
with built-in safety cutter, and tie a
knot in the end. Absolutely waterproof when tied.
146
www.survivalproductsinc.com
Technautics, Inc.
KNOT-A-BAG®
MOST CONVENIENT
PLASTIC BAG—
ANYWHERE!
141
www.welcome-aboard.com
Davis Instruments
3465 Diablo Avenue,
Hayward, CA 94545
800-678-3669
Fax: 510-670-0589
E-mail: sales@davisnet.com
Website: www.davisnet.com
150
www.nkhome.com
Tony Sheridan
Monitor Windvane
WELCOME ABOARD!
THE YACHTING LIFESTYLE CATALOG
Unique and exclusive boating items A. Sport-A-Seat Lounger, 6-way
adjustable back in 8 Sunbrella colors, embroidery optional. B. Quality
8-piece Nesting Cookware Set. C. Custom boat mats 18 colors all with
Sunbrella trim. D. All Season Sleep System, Made in America with the
Finest Materials:V-Berth, King, Queen & Single sizes, 9 colors & up to
400 thread count sheets. All these items and loads more!! Call, FAX or
write for our FREE Catalog. Don’t outfit without us!
Welcome Aboard! Catalog
11661 Martens River Circle Suite D
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
1-800-295-2469 • Fax (714) 434-9722
Shop Online At www.Welcome-Aboard.com
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
A NON STOP CIRCUMNAVIGATOR
COMPARES HIS MONITOR WINDVANE WITH
HIS STATE OF THE ART UNDER DECK AUTOPILOT.
All bluewater cruisiers owe themselves to read Tony Gooch's windvane
vs. autopilot article in Cruising World January 2004. It is posted on our
updated website : www.selfsteer.com. Click on “NEWS.”
If you click on “BOATS AND PHOTOS” you will find that we have listed
more than 2,400 different boat types that we have provided with self-steering since 1977. We are also showing more than 4,000 photos of installations as well as letters from owners. Check out a sister ship of your boat
and then request a detailed installation drawing from us. Free DVD.
Our company, SCANMAR INTERNATIONAL, manufactures a complete
range of windvanes of different principles.We sell them factory direct with
worldwide assistance.
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
432 South 1st Street, Point Richmond, CA 94804, USA
Ph 510-215-2010 • Fax 510-215-5005 • Toll free 1 - 888-946-3826
E-mail: scanmar@selfsteer.com • Website: www.selfsteer.com
141
Holiday G i f t G u i d e
ASTRA IIIB DELUXE
Celestial navigation is the obvious
choice for electronic backup,
maintaining navigation skills, and
enjoyment. The new Astra IIIB
Deluxe is the first choice in highquality, low-cost, all-metal sextants.
Write or call for our free catalog of
the world’s largest selection of
navigation products.
BOAT LEATHER
Leather Products For The
Marine Environment
Immediate delivery. Complete kit.
Measure Wheel A-B
Without With
Wheel Dia. (A)
Foam
Foam
21-28"
$126
$160
29-40"
$140
$180
41-52"
$170
$211
Spoke covers $6. Leather center
marker $6. Shipping $10.
Flexible Furler
•Best reefed sail shape
•Best reliability
•Least maintenance
Let us prove to you the flexible furler is the
BEST you can buy. Contact us for more information or
ask a CDI roller reefing owner.
Celestaire Inc.
416 S. Pershing
Wichita, KS 67218
316-686-9785
Fax: 316-686-8926
Website: www.celestaire.com
Boat Leather
Cruising Design, Inc.
44 James St.
Homer, NY 13077
tel. 607-749-4599, fax: 607-749-4604
sailcdi@verizon.net; www.sailcdi.com
3050-38th Ave. W., Seattle, WA 98199
800-468-9110 • 206-284-9110
Fax: 206-283-7613
E-Mail : sales@boatleather.com
Website: www.boatleather.com
Winter Trade-In
Program
20% off all
SIGNET MARINE Instruments*
Trade in any marine instrument and receive a 20%
discount off any new Signet Marine instrument purchased from our factory. Simply ship your instrument, in any condition, to the address below with a copy
of this ad to receive your trade-in discount. Complete
details can be found on our website.
.
I N S T R U M E N T S
.
S T A N C H I O N S
.
H E A D F O I L ® 2
.
S E R V I C E
.
P A R T S
.
505 Van Ness Avenue, Torrance, CA 90501
Tel: 310.320.4349 • Fax: 310.320.5026 • www.signetmarine.com
142
*Offer expires 02/15/06 CW
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
PRIX
GRAND
SERIES
S AILP ODS
MADE FOR CRUISERS!
POWERFUL, QUIET,
“NAVPOD'S UNIQUE WATERTIGHT
SILICON SEAL, QUALITY WORKMANSHIP
AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGN,
MAKE IT THE BEST BUILT INSTRUMENT
HOUSING AVAILABLE
TO THE MARINE INDUSTRY”
WHEEL-A-WEIGH®
LAUNCHING WHEELS FOR
BOATS & INFLATABLES
SIMPLY DESIGNED, $1,049
Four amps at 10 knots, 10 amps
at 15 knots; guaranteed to hurricane-force winds; electric brake
and built-in thermal protection;
mizzen, arch, or pole mount; threeyear warranty. Solar Panels,
Charge Controllers, Port Fans and
much more. Keep It Simple, Sailor!
Hotwire Enterprises
Phone/Fax: 727-943-0402
Cell: 727-638-7417
E-Mail : crew@svhotwire.com
Website: www.svhotwire.com
Wheel-a-Weigh launching wheels
help get your small craft to and
from the water quickly and conveniently. The launching wheels ride
in tracks permanently installed on
the transom. Removal of lockpins
allows pivoting the wheels up
while underway. Choose the model
that’s right for you.
Davis Instruments
3465 Diablo Avenue,
Hayward, CA 94545
800-678-3669
Fax: 510-670-0589
E-mail: sales@davisnet.com
Website: www.davisnet.com
NavPod Scanstrut Tacktick
JetConnex HoseCoil Drinx
bringing innovation to market...
2 Thomas, Irvine, CA 92618
Phone: 949-588-1470
NEXT
www.navpod.com
Introducing
12volt air-conditioning from Glacier Bay
GENERATION REFRIGERATION
with AIR CONDITIONING
SMALL
LIGHT
POWERFUL
ENERGYEFFICIENT
Glacier Bay, Inc, the marine industry's premier refrigeration system
manufacturer, is pleased to introduce the Microtm HPS - a new kind of
marine refrigeration system. The Microtm HPS represents the most
significant advancement in marine refrigeration technology in the past
30 years and blurs the line between small, hermetically sealed DC
Get reliable, powerful air conditioning directly from your
12v or 24v battery, engine alternator, DC generator or
shore power battery charger.
DC Breeze gives you:
constant-cycle units and large, high-powered DC holding plate
systems. The micro hybrid system is a compact 12”w x 12”l x9”h and
avaliable in 12v and 24v DC as well as a high voltage AC/DC
versions. Winner of the 2003 NMMA Innovation Award. Air-conditioning
available off the same condensing unit.
. 5k Btu/hr of air conditioning
. Direct 12v or 24 volt DC input no inverter
. High energy efficiency
. 3-speed operation
. Digital thermostat available
www.glacierbay.com www.dcbreeze.com
Glacier Bay, Inc. 2845 Chapman Street Oakland, CA 94601 (510) 437-9100
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Fax (510) 437-9200 E-Mail so@glacierbay.com
145
Holiday G i f t G u i d e
FOLLOW ME TV®
FAILSAFE INSULATOR
More and more people are
choosing Hayn for our dedication to
our customers and our commitment
to quality. WH I LE OTH E R S
MAK E CLAI M S, WE MAK E
HARDWARE.
Hayn Marine is proud to introduce
the Hi-Mod insulator, the only
FAILSAFE insulator for wire on
the market today. Utilizing the
same evolutionary design of the
Hi-Mod mechanical terminals, this
insulator will ret ain structural
integrity should the insulating
material ever be compromised.
Great look plus peace of mind-go
Hi-Mod!
Hayn Enterprises, LLC
51 Inwood Road
Rocky Hill, CT 06067
860-257-0680 • Fax: 860-257-0683
Email: marine@hayn.com
www.hayn.com
HAPPY TROLLER® — SLOWS
BOATS DOWN TO “FISH
TANTALIZING” SPEED
Mounts on the anti-cavitation plate
of your troll fishing boat. When plate
is in “down” position, troll speed is
reduced to that “ever-so-slow”
speed fish love. With plate “up,” the
boat’s stability is enhanced as you
cruise. Made of finest stainless
steel and marine aluminum. Hardware included. Installs in 15 minutes.
Davis Instruments
3465 Diablo Avenue,
Hayward, CA 94545
800-678-3669
Fax: 510-670-0589
E-mail: sales@davisnet.com
Website: www.davisnet.com
The world’s simplest, lowest-cost
s atellite TV tracking system.
Chosen by thousands of boaters
worldwide. Hundreds of TV
channels while swinging at anchor.
Use any home dish and receiver
with Follow Me TV® - just $896.90
with “find” feature. Call Ray, Paul or
Dave. Ask whether a 10-9 0
trade-off is right for you.
Follow Me Company
877-365-5696 • 843-681-6274
E-Mail :
followmetv@hargray.com
Website: www.followmetv.com
Survival Products
Exclusive
Waterheaters
EMERGENCY LIFE RAFT
Survival Products Inc., servicing/
sales of aviation/marine life rafts,
vests, slides since 1974, manufactures
newly designed, emergency, inflatable, four- to six-man life raft for
private aircraft/pleasure boats.
World’s lightest weight (only 12
lb.). World’s smallest package
(only 4" x 12" x 14"); World’s least
expensive (only $1,095). 9 to 13
man, 18 lbs; valise 5" x 12" x 14",
$1,425. TSO’d and non TSO’d.
New! 10-Man MAC/ORC Raft/
double tube, 30 lbs., valise 5" x 14" x
19", $2,895. 6-Man also. BUY/RENT.
Survival Products Inc., 5614 S.W. 25
Street, Hollywood, FL 33023
954-966-7329 • Fax: 954-966-3584
E-Mail : sales@survivalproductsinc.com
Website: www.survivalproductsinc.com
Slim Ø12” 4, 5 & 6 gallons
Basic Ø151/2” 6, 8, 11,
13 & 20 gallons
• Stainless Steel tank
A1S1 316, Cover A1S1 304
• Vertical or horizontal
installation
• Electric heating element
115 V
• Thermostat mixing
value included
5300 NW 12th Avenue,
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309
Phone (954) 772-8355
Fax (954) 772-3839
E-mail: info@indelmarineusa.com
www.indelmarineusa.com
PRODUCTS INC.
146
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
HANDCRAFT MATTRESS CO.
Customized Comfort
A new level of
At HMC, we understand boats
and the marine environment.
We have representatives in
most areas that visit your
boat to pattern the berth
ensuring a custom fit.
Call us Today!
Comfort
• Custom shapes & sizes
• Designed for the marine
environment
• Optional hinge fold
• Custom bedding available
• Shipping worldwide
800 241-7751
www.boatbeds.com
HMC West • 1935 Deere Ave., Irvine, CA 92606
HMC East • 1602 NW 23rd Avenue • Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33311
FACNOR FURLING SYSTEMS
CONTINUOUS LINE JIB REEFING AND FURLING
GENNAKER/CODE ZERO FURLERS
NEW LS & LX FURLING SYSTEMS
Facnor introduces a series of continuous line
jib furling and reefing systems that were developed and used by solo ocean racers including
Ellen McArthur and Around Alone winner
Bernard Stamm. The new system incorporates
a specially designed line-griping drum with twin
groove aluminum foils for effortless furling and
reefing. The design keeps the jib tack closer to
the deck allowing for the longest possible jib
luff length. They are lighter, stronger and safer
than traditional drum furling systems.
140’ transatlantic record holder MARI-CHA IV
selected Facnor furlers to handle her tremendous
Gennaker and mizzen staysail, a unique sail plan
with enormous loads. Facnor has perfected the
Gennaker / Code Zero furler and offers the
largest range of products for boats 19’ to 150’.
The specially designed drum aggressively grips
the furling line to prevent slipping; a stainless
steel line guide keeps the line engaged and protects the body of the drum.
Facnor introduces a complete new range of
furling systems, originally developed for solo sailor
Jean-Luc Van Den Heede who set a “wrong way”
circumnavigation record aboard his cutter Adrien.
Sailing mostly upwind around the world was a
good test for our new “polymer bearing box”
system. The LS & LX are lighter and stronger than
our previous generation of furling systems and
offer a new series of foil sections, stainless steel
sail feeder, improved halyard swivel, rotating tack
point, and adjustable line guide. The LS and
LX systems are the latest examples of racedeveloped technology from Facnor.
www.facnor.com
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Facnor USA
3901 Pine Grove Circle Charlotte, NC 28206
704-598-1105 • E-Mail: facnorinc@aol.com
Website: www.facnor.com
147
Holiday G i f t G u i d e
CARIBBEAN
CRUISING GUIDES
We have literally written the
books on Caribbean cruising.
Our cruising guides provide
colorful photography, up-to-date
information on marinas, shops,
restaurants, sketch charts with
GPS coordinates, and a wealth
of other information. These guides
are indispensable aids for the
cruising or chartering yachtsman.
Contact us for a complete catalog.
Cruising Guide Publications
800-330-9542 • 727-733-5322
Fax: 727-734-8179
E-Mail: info@cruisingguides.com
Website: www.cruisingguides.com
148
AIR-DRYR™ — SAY GOODBYE TO MOLD, MILDEW
AND MOISTURE
An inexpensive and effective way to
fight moisture problems and corrosion. Designed to operate in home,
boat, or office. Place on the floor in
any damp, enclosed space and plug
in to a 110/120 volt outlet. Damp air
is heated above dewpoint, holding
moisture in suspension. Costs no
more to operate than a light bulb.
Silent operation 24 hours a day.
Davis Instruments
3465 Diablo Avenue,
Hayward, CA 94545
800-678-3669
Fax: 510-670-0589
E-mail: sales@davisnet.com
Website: www.davisnet.com
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
Marine Refrigeration
• Increased refrigeration capacity
• No fans or pumps.
GRAB ‘N GO HOOK MOORING
QUICK CONNECT/DISCONNECT SYSTEM
a line to the buoy’s eye, and disconnect the line when departing. Johnson
Marine’s mooring device, the Grab ‘n Go Hook makes attachment or removal of the bow line quick, easy and convenient. The track fits onto the
end of any conventional boat hook, and the Grab n’ Go Hook attaches to
the boat’s bow line. The Grab ‘n Go Hook slides onto the track mounted
on the boat hook allowing the hook to be firmly positioned over the mooring. Pushing down while steadying the line will make the connection to
the buoy’s eye. Then pull the boat hook away. To disconnect, grasp the
Grab ‘n Go Hook’s specially-designed loop with the boat hook and pull.
The Grab ‘n Go Hook is a convenience item, used for temporary or
“lunch hook” applications. Suggested price is $74.95.
• Heat is transferred directly to
the surrounding water
instead of being circulated as
hot air inside the boat.
• No extra holes need to be
drilled in the hull and there
are no protruding components.
• Replaces the existing galley
drain skin fitting.
We have a complete range of marine
refrigeration units and refrigerators air
or water cooled.
5300 NW 12th Avenue,
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309
Phone (800) 422-9711
Fax (954) 772-3839
E-mail: info@indelmarineusa.com
www.indelmarineusa.com
Johnson Marine
P.O. Box L, East Haddam, CT 06423
860-873-8697 • Fax: 860-873-8589
Website: www.csjohnson.com
30 Data Pages. 2 Displays. No Wires.
Micronet Wireless Networking Technology
as part of a solar powered instrument eliminates both
data and power wires.No need to run wires through
bulk heads and no mast wires to run either.
Add the NMEA 0183 interface and the instrument is a
GPS repeater. System will interface with laptop computers,
autopilots and other marine electronic products.
NavPod Scanstrut Tacktick
JetConnex HoseCoil Drinx
bringing innovation to market...
2 Thomas, Irvine, CA 92618
Phone: 949-588-1470
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
www.oceanequipment.com
149
Holiday G i f t G u i d e
TROPIKOOL® 40
Not all refrigeration systems are the same.
TropiKool® 40 is the first refrigerator in the industry to offer superior
refrigeration performance in high ambient temperature environments
through advanced Stirling cooler technology. TropiKool® products
employ environmentally friendly CO2 and Helium refrigerants,
weigh less than 20 pounds, consume less than 18 amp-hours
per day @ 12VDC and do not require sea water cooling.
AvXcel, Inc.
1485 Poinsetta Ave.
Suite 112
Vista, CA 92081 USA
Tel: 760-295-8842
Fax: 760-295-8843
web site: http://www.avxcel.com
100%
INTERNET BASED
Lower cost. Faster service.
Holding plates, compressors,
vacuum insulation panels, DC
motors, valves, controls, wire
shelving, and more. Save $$$
www.rparts.com
HELP WANTED:
ADVERTISING SALES
Dockside Publications, Inc. is looking for an experienced Advertising
Sales Rep for the company's
California magazines. Applicants
should have a background in ad
/marketing to the marine industry. An understanding of both the
power and sail markets is important. Some travel. Compensation
based upon the candidates background, experience and interview.
Fax or email cover
letter and resume to:
150
Publisher
Dockside Publications, Inc.
Fax: 949-838-0200
email: resume@docksidemedia.com
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
MARKETPLACE
C RU I S I N G W O R L D
THE LARGEST AUDIENCE OF CRUISING SAILORS IN THE WORLD
CHARTER BOAT
DATABASE SERVICE
Best Boats & Charters
VIRGIN ISLAND SAILING, LTD.
Offers hundreds of fine power, sail
and mega-yachts in the Caribbean
or Mediterranean. Bareboat or
crewed, tailored and catered for You.
Elegant cuisine, personal service,
surprisingly affordable. Credit cards
accepted. (800) 382-9666. CYBA
member. www.visailing.com ❑
Call Susan — “We make a difference!”
CRUISING THE NET
SEVEN SEAS YACHT CHARTERS
Large charter yachts worldwide.
(800) 346-5355. CYBA member.
www.sevenseascharters.com ❑
POWER & SAIL •
800.922.4833
www.oceancharters.com
CARIBBEAN CHARTERS
& VILLAS RENTALS
* St. Lucia * Martinique * Grenadines
* 1-800-263-4202 WWW.SAILCARIBBEAN.COM ❑
GO NATIVE YACHT CHARTERS
Miami Beach, FL
Easy access to Keys & Bahamas. Bareboat & crewed charters. ASA facility.
Quality yachts and service. Privilege
39, Athena 38, (3) Lagoon 38s,
Island Spirit 37 & 401 Seawind 1200,
1160 & 1000 catamarans. Beneteau
35 & Hunter 326 & 290. (800) 3599808. E-mail: sail@gnyc.com Website: www.gnyc.com ❑
DON’T SELL
YOUR BABY!
1-800-903-4483
Email: RandomActs372@msn.com
CHARTERS:
FLORIDA/CARIBBEAN
FLORIDA KEYS
TROPICAL BAYFRONT
HIDEAWAYS
Non-smoking units only, complete
with 22’ sailboats and spectacular
sunsets. (305) 743-8454. www.flsail
ing.homestead.com ❑
FLORIDA KEYS-BAHAMAS
1-800-FLA-BOAT
Best Rates! Sail & power yachts,
19’-41’, bareboat or captained. TREASURE HARBOR MARINE, 200 Treasure Harbor Drive, Islamorada, FL
33036. (305) 852-2458, Fax (305) 8525743. www.treasureharbor.com ❑
cruisingworld.com
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
FLORIDA KEYS
ON 41’ MORGAN
$1895 WEEK
Sail Bahamas/Florida Keys on well
equipped Morgan 41. Competitive
rates, friendly Captain. Rates starting
at $1895/wk for up to 6 people!
www.island-adventure.com (800)
876-8929. ❑
VIRGIN ISLANDS
42’ LUXURY CATAMARAN
With Captain
4 guest, only $4,395/wk, plus food.
(Cook also available.) Call for early
booking savings. (340) 344-4446.
www.caribbeansailingadventures.com
❑
Donate it. Boats, RV’s, Autos,
running or not. Tax Deductible. Fast
removal. Serving America’s poor,
let us channel your goodwill to
where it is needed the most.
Random Acts Ministries, Inc.
WORLDWIDE
Finest Affordable Yacht Vacations
MAINE CAT BAHAMAS
Bareboat charter Maine Cat 30 & 41 in
Hope Town, Bahamas. Enjoy well
protected Sea of Abaco waters with
its beautiful islands and beaches. Fully equipped. A breeze to handle. Email:
mecat@gwi.net or call 1-888-832CATS to reserve your vacation. ❑
Charter The Largest
Bareboat Available
In The Virgins
63’ of luxury for 6 lucky guests.
Professionally maintained. www.shi
wara.com ❑
Crewed Charters
Physicians’ CME Cruises
1 wk cruises in the BVI on 46’ catamaran “Good Medicine” w/crew.
www.sailgoodmedicine.com Dr. Earl
(862) 432-2295. ❑
FLORIDA KEYS
All inclusive, crewed sailing vacations on luxury 48’ boat. 4 guests in
2 private cabins. Nov 15 - April 30.
(877) KEY-SAIL. www.KeySail.com
❑
PDQ 32 & PDQ 36
From
HOPETOWN, BAHAMAS
Fully equipped 32’ OR 36’ Catamarans; or pretty cottages on Harbor
entrance; or combo. Full info & contact @ www.come2hopetown.com
or (561) 202-8163 ❑
SUNSHINE SAILING GETAWAYS
Elegant Captained Cruising
Aboard new 42’ MANTA catamarans -everything included as low as
$195.p/pers/day max. 2 couples - 7
days.Sail anywhere/anytime! Florida/Bahamas Based. 1-800-649-3528,
Email: sunshine6005@bellnet.ca ❑
CHARTERS:
EAST COAST
NORTH CAROLINA
Pamlico Sounds, rivers, Outer Banks
and Ocracoke Island. Bareboat or
captained, sail or power, 27-42’.
Investment opportunities in Charter/Management available for
PACIFIC SEACRAFT, CATALINA,
SAGA. CAROLINA WIND, (252)
946-4653. www.carolinawind.com
❑
LAKE CHAMPLAIN
126 miles long. Pristine freshwater
sailing. Secluded coves, quaint harbor
towns await you. Meticulous yachts
28-41’. WINDS OF IRELAND, (800)
458-9301, windsofireland.net ❑
151
CHESAPEAKE BAY
Awarded “Best of the Bay” for yacht
charters. Bareboat, captained, or ASA
instructional charters on new, fully
equipped and impeccably maintained sailing yachts. Visit our website. BAYSAIL SCHOOL & YACHT
CHARTERS, www.baysail.net (410)
939-2869. ❑
Main
e!
MARKETPLACE
SAIL THE SOUNDS
MYSTIC, CT
Try one of our quality 24’-50’ sailboats. ASA Certification courses.
(860) 536-5486 www.sailthe
sounds.com / (860) 536-4656
www.sailtime.com ❑
Cruise stunning
Penobscot Bay!
Fully equipped, expertly
maintained bareboats
JOHANSON BOATWORKS
www.jboatworks.com
toll free 877-4JOHANS ▼ Rockland, ME 04841
A&A YACHTING DESTINATIONS
YACHT CHARTERS IN
THE GREEK ISLANDS
Sailing yachts, catamarans, motor
yachts and motorsailers. Special
internet deals available as well as personalized service by our US reps.
Website: www.greece-yacht-char
ters.com, Email: info@greece-yachtcharters.com ❑
CHARTER THE WORLD
Talk To The Experts
With first hand local knowledge of
chartering in: Italy, Tonga, Tahiti,
New Zealand, Australia, Galapagos,
Greece, Turkey, Scotland, Finland,
Seychelles, Africa, New Caledonia,
B.V.I., Belize, Caribbean, Bahamas,
Sea of Cortez, Balearic Islands, and
Croatia. We know about travel
details, land arrangements, local provisioning, itineraries and even if there
is peanut butter! Try a cabin on a
crewed monohull or catamaran. Join
a flotilla for a great time with likeminded sailors. KING YACHT
CHARTERS, INC. (800) 521-7552.
info@sailingcharters.com www.sail
ingcharters.com ❑
GREECE - MYKONOS
Private elegant 58’ sailing yacht. 2 to
8 guests, 5 cabins, 5 WC. Very fast &
impressive. Year-round professional
skipper/ guide. Low direct rates from
owner (no agents). www.arianna.gr
Email: arianna@otenet.gr ❑
CHARTERS: GREAT
LAKES/NORTH
CHANNEL
FABULOUS NORTH CHANNEL
CANADA
Power/sail. 25 boats, 27’-50’. Best
freshwater boating worldwide.
CANADIAN YACHT CHARTERS,
Box 215, Gore Bay, Ontario, P0P
1H0, (800) 565-0022. info@cyc
north.com, www.cycnorth.com ❑
CHARTERS: FOREIGN
PHUKET/THAILAND
SWAN 55 US$700/week/person,
incl. MAXI 77 (25 ft), Bareboat
US$100/day. Bungalows: US$30/day
with aircon, TV, fridge. Tel/Fax: 66
76 381 934; www.biga-sailing.com
Email: bigasail@samart.co.th ❑
Albatross
SAIL THAILAND
And SE Asia aboard fully equipped
and professionally crewed Tayana
55. Great smooth sailing conditions, exotic romantic island anchorages. Rates from $4,950 per
week. www.thailand-sail-char
ters.com Phone: John @ +66 (0)
48-426-206. ❑
CHARTERS:
SOUTH PACIFIC
AUSTRALIA’s
WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS &
GREAT BARRIER REEF
Bareboat yacht & powerboat charters, www.yachtcharters.com.au ❑
CRUISE EXOTIC FIJI
Aboard 53’ Yawl, SeaHawk
www.seahawkfiji.com
Full Service, Captained & Crewed
Island Style Cruising Adventures.
❑
AUSTRALIA
WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS
GREAT BARRIER REEF
Bareboat Charters. www.whitsun
dayescape.com ❑
YACHT CHARTERS IN GREECE & TURKEY
BEST RATES
An American
Owned Company
Tel: 800-377-8877 856-778-5656
www.albatrosscharters.com
Free USVI
Vacation Info
CHARTERS:
MEXICO/CENTRAL
AMERICA
SEA of CORTEZ, MEXICO
41’ Morgan Ketch
Better than new. Sleeps 7. Boston
Whaler, kayaks. $1500 - $1750 per week.
Skipper available. www.seascapechar
ters.com sailing@seascapecharters.com
❑
SAIL THE SEA OF CORTEZ
Family adventure vacations
since 1997. Snorkeling, Diving,
Kayaking, Whalewatching. www.ba
jaseafaris.com ❑
CHARTERS:
WEST COAST
HAWAII SAILING CHARTERS
Featuring Beneteau, Bareboat, ASA
Sailing School. www.honsail.com
(800) 829-0114. ❑
SAIL SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
80 sailboats available at 6 locations.
Late model boats 27-50’. marinasail
ing.com (800) 262-7245. ❑
So. California Channel Islands
National Park
Experience top sailing conditions in
the WORLD. Santa Barbara Sailing
Center. Whales year around, world
class hiking, diving, fishing, kayaking.
(800) 350-9090. SBSAIL.COM ❑
CHARTERS: PACIFIC
NORTHWEST
DESOLATION SOUND
YACHT CHARTERS LTD.
Discover magnificent DESOLATION
SOUND and PRINCESS LOUISA INLET on one of our 26’-45’ sail or power
yachts. Closest full service charter base to
Desolation Sound & northern Vancouver
Island. Toll Free 1-877-647-3815.
www.desolationsoundyachtcharters.com
❑
Charter a premium, late-model
Grand Banks trawler—32' - 52'
Crewed charters to 175'.
Bellingham, WA (800) 826.1430
www.nwexplorations.com
BELLHAVEN
SAILING
SCHOOL
CHARTERS
Bareboat and Luxury Charters
SAIL - POWER
6 day ASA Cruise-N-Learn
www.bellhaven.net Pacific Northwest - San Juan
800 542 8812 bellhaven@bellhaven.net
714 Coho Way, Bellingham, WA 98225
CANADA’S LARGEST
BAREBOAT CHARTER COMPANY!
The newest & largest fleet of Bavaria,
Dehler, Hunter & Catalina yachts.
Base’s situated in the Gulf Islands &
Desolation Sound in beautiful British
Columbia. Power & Sail from 30 to
50 feet in length. TOLL FREE 888999-6419, Fax: (604) 687-3267.
www.cooperboating.com ❑
EXTENDED
CHARTERS
www.Seabbatical.com
Experience The Cruising
Lifestyle For A Month Or A Year
Without selling your home or business. Exotic destinations, luxurious
catamarans, affordable, doable. (780)
419-3882. ❑
CHARTS
CHARTS
SAVINGS UP TO 80%
High Definition Prints
Current edition charts reproduced
on heavyweight bond paper. So.
Pacific, Mex, Med, USA, Caribbean,
Worldwide. Free index. Sample chart
$5. Affordable electronic chart backups. 29 years quality service.
BELLINGHAM CHART PRINTERS
DIVISION, TIDES END LTD., P.O.
Box 1728C, Friday Harbor, WA
98250. (800) 643-3900, FAX 360468-3939, www.tidesend.com •
Email: sales@tidesend.com ❑
BOATS FOR SALE
MACGREGOR * CATALINA
HUNTER * BENETEAU
HOBIE CAT
Largest sailboat dealer in Rocky
Mtns. All trailerable models in stock.
Marine store, repairs, lessons,
financing. THE ANCHORAGE,
Boulder, CO, (303) 823-6601.
http://www.theanchorage.com ❑
MACGREGOR 26M
New, nicely equipped, priced to
move, possible delivery. Salt Lake
City, Utah. Paul, (801) 209-0293. ❑
DON’T BUY THE WRONG BOAT!
Use seasoned experts - not brokers for objective advice on purchase/
refit. Highly experienced, professional consultants. Surprisingly
reasonable; very cost-effective.
YACHT ADVISORS LLC, (410) 7034500. www.yachtadvisors.com ❑
www.virgin-islands-hotels.com
WANT RESULTS FROM YOUR ADVERTISING DOLLARS?
classifieds@cruisingworld.com
United States Virgin Islands Tourism Association
152
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
SHANNON 28, 1984
3 cyl. 30 yanmar 2004, radar, refrig,
RF jib & staysail, 5 sails, new standing
rigging. Avon/outboard. Freshwater
boat. Ready to cruise. $69,900. (412)
367-1332. ❑
ENDURANCE 44
OCEAN READY
Excellent condition long keel heavy
displacement cutter. Watermaker,
liferaft, windvane, autopilot, wind
generator, solar panels 2004, rib &
15hp, SSB 2004, radar, chart plotter 2004, freezer 2004, separate
fridge 2004, lots of new items
added. Major overhaul by Hinckleys of Maine. Ready to go, lying
Ft. Lauderdale. $140,000. Email:
phillip.liberson@tesco.net (954)
559-5684 http://delphinus.brave
host.com ❑
1972 41’ GULFSTAR SAIL
AUX CENTER COCKPIT
New Tan Bark Full Batten Main, AP
& Aries Radar, Electo San, Cockpit
Hard Top. New Bottom Paint, Light
Gray Enron. S/L winlass, dink,
Norcold, etc. etc. Illness. $30,000.
firm to good home. ❑
MULTIHULLS
1998 LEOPARD 45
Fully equipped, meticulously maintained. Ideal bluewater cruising
catamaran. Visit www.thewebb
home.com/blithespirit.html
or email: blithespirit@thewebb
home.com (713) 303-0456. ❑
DAYSAILERS/DINGHIES
MARINE ENGINES &
ACCESSORIES
Washable, high
temperature
engine room
surface
High
density
polymer
sound barrier
MARKETPLACE
FREEDOM 40/40, 2001
Perfect condition, 40’ sloop, fully
equipped for worldwide cruising.
NOW $248,000 ($122,000 BELOW
cost.) (561) 523-1511 www.sailfull
monty.com ❑
MORE GEAR
Peel and stick
contact
adhesive
system
Sound
absorbing
fire retardant
foam
SHUT UP!
Up to 90% diesel-noise reduction
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Many more unique products.
www.sailorssolutions.com (631) 7541945. ❑
STAINLESS STEEL INSIDE & OUT
Heat exchanger & electric element
standard. Heats faster, stays hot
longer. 10 year warranty. Made in
USA. 13 models, 5-45 gallons & custom megayacht sizes. ALLCRAFT,
(508) 541-9133, FAX (508) 541-9155,
www.allcraft.net ❑
Ultra Compact Generators
Quiet•Lightweight•Heat Exchange Cooled
MCS 64, 2003
Fast, aluminum, shallow draft cruising ketch. Fort Lauderdale. $649,000
or trade for real estate. Broker
protected. Details - WWW.GESARY
ACHTS.COM (206) 972-8282. ❑
GARCIA PASSOA 50
YEAR 2001
Thoroughly equipped, autonomy,
comfort, performance. Asking price
590,000 Euros VAT paid. www.pas
soa50.com Contact: jyhp@free.fr
❑
36’ STEEL
BLUE WATER CRUISER
Equipped for circumnavigation
completed 2005. French built 1980.
Survey/hull tested 2002. Fin keel,
skeg rudder, twin headsails. (252)
721-8215. adventtwo@yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/adventtwo ❑
LORD NELSON 41
1982. New Yanmar, radar, GPS.
Many upgrades. Great liveaboard
blue water cruiser. Bay City, MI.
fairwind2@earthlink.net ❑
HALLBERG-RASSY HR39
2000 Model, Atlantic vet outfitted
for cruising, lying Alameda, CA (408)
756-2750. ❑
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
TRINKA
Rowing / Sailing Dinghies
For those who demand the best!
FUN to row and easy to sail. 8’ and
10” models. JOHANNSEN BOAT
WORKS, INC., 690 4th Place, Vero
Beach, FL 32962. (800) 869-0773.
www.trinka.com ❑
3.5 to 99 kw 888-463-9879
www.nextgenerationpower.com
SOFTWARE/
HARDWARE
M ARKETPLACE
R ATES
INFLATABLE BOATS
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NOW AVAILABLE
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MATERIALS
FOR RATES PLEASE
CALL MICHELLE ROCHE
Call: (401) 845-5140
Fax: (401) 845-5180
Email:
EPOXY FIBERGLASS
CARBON KEVLAR
( www.raka.com )
Best selection. Lowest prices. Daily
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For Classified Ad
Information
Call Michelle Roche
at (401) 845-5140
PROPELLER TURNING?
STOP IT!
Increase boat performance. Eliminate transmission damage. SHAFT
LOK INC. (262) 786-6800,
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com.com Visa/MC. ❑
classifieds@
cruisingworld.com
Deadline:
Dec. 5th for Feb. issue
cruisingworld.com
Online classified
links available
Call for more
information
153
MARKETPLACE
TANK TENDER
THE ORIGINAL PRECISION
TANK MEASURING SYSTEM!
Accurate tank soundings have never
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water tanks. Reliable, non-electric
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❑
TRADITIONAL AND ELECTRONIC
NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT
FREE, world’s largest navigation
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Celesticomp V computer, GPS, nightvision, plotting tools, weather instruments, software, electronic charts, star
charts, radios, binoculars, books, videos,
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info@celestaire.com. See entire
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WINTER STORAGE COVERS
Color coded aluminum frames, canvas covers, all inclusive. TOP SHOP,
INC, (800) 268-4186, Check website
for available patterns www.top
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STAINLESS STEEL
Extensive line of marine hardware,
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call: 1-888-433-3484. Order online:
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RIGGING ONLY
Small ad, small prices. Winches,
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rigging etc. Catalog: www.riggin
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(508) 992-0434. ❑
POWER TO SPARE!
Wind Power
Water Power
Alternators
Solar Power
Inverters
Chargers
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Stainless
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Custom Stainless or Aluminum windows. Bronze & Stainless Portholes.
3”, 4” and 5” Bronze, Brass & Stainless
Cowl Vents, also Teak & Fiberglass Dorades boxes. For more information or
catalog: www.MarinersHardware.com
Toll Free 1 (877) 765-0880. ❑
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WELLS ARCH DAVIT
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A place for all your stuff and a davit
strong enough for your RIB & outboard. (954) 975-8288. ❑
NEW OR OLD
REFRIGERATION BOXES
Or To Cool The Boat’s Interior
Use Heat Shield radiant space technology. www.heatshieldmarine.com. (941)
575-4404, Fax (941) 575-4080, Email:
Info@HeatShieldMarine.com ❑
NEW! TASCO Galley Ranges
MODEL 755 LP Shown
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•All marine grade stainless steel
•FLAME FAILURE protection •Automatic ignition for ALL burners •Fully
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locks •Mirror finish oven compartment •Oven temperature dial and
broiler. TASCO Marine - Dept. CW,
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394-0786. ❑
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Marine Refrigeration Company offering the finest in Marine Refrigeration
and unbeatable prices. Offering complete line of Nova Kool refrigeration. ❑
PROVIDING AFFORDABLE
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DINGHY-TOW
If you’re planning to cruise or are
actively cruising, join the growing
number of sailors who have already
solved the problems of towing, storing and motor removal with DinghyTow. Call toll-free 1-888-DINGHYTOW (1-888-346-4498), Fax (905)
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154
AIR HEAD
Superior urine separation design.
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dwyermast.com
• Masts
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ALL HAND ETCHED
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ALTERNATE
ENERGY SOLUTIONS
FOR ANY TYPE SAILOR
Be it solar, wind, water, hi-output alternators, inverters, batteries, and monitoring, or any combination. Free catalog. FOURWINDS ENTERPRISES,
INC. (941) 575-4404, Fax (941) 5754080, Email: Paul@Fourwinds-ii.com ,
Website: www.fourwinds-ii.com ❑
Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.
203-484-0419
cruisingworld.com
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
MARKETPLACE
FridgeFreeze
Portable 12/24 & 110-Volt
Refrigerator/Freezer
Super-low amp draw. Will freeze or
refrigerate in over 110 degree heat.
(619) 220-6003. www.fridgefreeze.com
❑
FROLI Sleep Systems
Dreams Come True!
Use With Your Existing Cushions • Pointby-Point Support • Moisture Mitigation •
Unsurpassed Comfort. www.NickleAt
lantic.com Toll Free: (888) 463-7654. ❑
WATERPROOF ULTRABRIGHT
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www.bebi-electronics.com
High quality. High output. Low Cost.
South Pacific Cruiser Proven. ❑
VALENCE MARINE
Go To
www.ValenceMarine.com
for the best marine electronics at
super discount pricing. ❑
R
A less costly ROPE &
WEED CUTTER which
is easier to install; under
water if necessary
1273 Scott St., San Diego 92106
619-226-2622
www.watermakerstore.com
❑
www.prop-protector.com
Fax 514-697-0911 • 1-800-618-6748
TO ORDER YOUR
Fenderstep™
Visit us online at www.neatboat.com
or call (603) 232-6897. ❑
ARE YOU
A SWINGER?
Make your boat behave. Anchoring
sail acts as wind vane, reducing
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ECONOMICAL, TROUBLE-FREE
WATERMAKERS
Custom built to fit your boat and
meet your fresh water needs. Call
(336) 924-8966 for information.
www.qwwinc.com ❑
WEST MARINE
BATTERY COMBINERS\ ON SALE
Combiner 50 $54.95, Combiner 150
$139.95. Brand new in original box
with unlimited warranty. Order at
www.yandina.com. Information
tech@yandina.com ❑
Fax your
classified ad to
401-845-5180
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
ALL NEW SAILOMAT
State-of-the-art design. Superior performance. Website brochure. Factory-direct. Worldwide delivery. Email:
info@sailomat.com ❑
NEW UPDATED WEBSITE
www.selfsteer.com
Click on
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CHECK IT OUT!
WE SPECIALIZE IN SELF-STEERING
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SELF-STEERING
GEAR
CAPE HORN
INTEGRATED SELF-STEERING
Above all others in elegance, performance, strength, below most in
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WANT RESULTS FROM YOUR
ADVERTISING DOLLARS?
classifieds@cruisingworld.com
155
MARKETPLACE
YACHT INSURANCE
& BLUEWATER SPECIALIST
MORGAN WELLS of Jack Martin
& Associates, Independent Agent and
consultant, will quote with “A” rated
USA companies or Lloyds of London. (800) 421-8818, (410) 626-1000,
Fax (410) 626-9966. ❑
BOAT LETTERING &
GRAPHICS
VINYL BOAT LETTERS
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www.boatletter.com
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SERVICES
GALLEY GEAR/
PROVISIONS
St. Brendan’s Isle, Inc
MAIL SERVICE & MORE
No Annual Fees - Serving cruisers
worldwide since 1988. Income Tax
Free Florida. 411 Walnut Street,
Green Cove Springs, FL 320433443. (800) 544-2132. www.boat
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Werling and Sons, Inc
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VOYAGERS MAIL
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SECURITY
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www.wasaga.com/tantyme
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NAUTICAL GIFTS &
HOUSEWARES
SAILING TROPHIES
www.sailingtrophies.com
Designers of exceptional sailing
awards, acrylic sailboats, and executive gifts. (877) 393-2443. ❑
JEWELRY
OFFSHORE SWAN PROGAM
Instructional Course
Caribbean Racing - Heineken, BVI,
Antigua etc. Learn to race aboard
Swan 48 “Avocation”. May return passage St. Maartin-Newport. June
Bermuda Race. www.sailopo.com, 1800-4-PASSAGe, (631) 423-4988. ❑
CHESAPEAKE BAY
Awarded “School of the Year” by
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Learn to sail in historic St. Augustine
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1-800-683-7245 - www.sta-sail.com
LEARN TO SAIL
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INSTRUCTION/
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LEARN TO SAIL
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SEA SENSE
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LEARN BY DOING. 1-800-332-1404
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VIRGIN ISLANDS
We enjoy guests aboard the Bel Ami,
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www.belamicharters.com ❑
cruisingworld.com
156
www.coastalnavigation.com
Study whenever you want, wherever
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SAILS
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CRUISE THE
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Gain confidence while sailing in The
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classifieds@cruisingworld.com
cruising sail specialist,
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Fax: (852) 2789 3155
Website: www.hksailmakers.com
Email: uoil@hkstar.com
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
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Unbeatable guarantee! Cash for sails.
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CRUISING DIRECT
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www.cruisingdirect.com
Call 1-888-424-7328 for free catalog
Fax toll free: 1-888-237-2457
OFFSHORE PASSAGEMAKING
Ft. Lauderdale - Bermuda
Advanced Instruction - ASA Certifications. Celestial Navigation & Offshore Passagemaking. BLUE WATER SAILING SCHOOL. (800) 2551840. www.bwss.com ❑
SAIL AROUND THE WORLD
IN SQUARE RIG
Join our 13-month voyage. Barque
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OFFSHORE PASSAGEMAKING
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Expeditions through the Pacific
aboard a Hallberg-Rassy 46.
www.mahina.com (360) 378-6131.
❑
OFFSHORE PASSAGE
OPPORTUNITIES
Need Crew? Want to Crew? Call 1800-4-PASSAGe (1-800-472-7724)
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Since 1993. ❑
BLUEWATER MILES
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including Celestial, Fantastic Boats—
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OFFSHORE PASSAGE INSTRUCTION
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US EASTERN REGIONS:
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HAWAII:
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NORTH CALIFORNIA:
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Phone 1-800-611-3823
Fax (239) 693-5504
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www.nationalsail.com
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
TEAL YACHT SERVICES
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SOMERSET SAILS
New & Used Sails. Roller-Furler and
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OVER 1,000 SAILS IN STOCK!!
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YACHT DELIVERIES
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ONLINE
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FLORIDA KEYS
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MARINAS/BOAT SLIPS
HISTORIC NEW BERN
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WATERFRONT
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JUST DO IT!
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PUNTA GORDA ISLES, Florida
We’ve been called by Money magazine,
one of the “Best Places to Live”. Our information package will show you why.
Miles of residential canals with access to
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BOATING CAPITAL
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Quaint village on the ICW & Pamlico Sound. Protected anchorages,
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www.orientalncwaterfront.com (800)
347-8246. ❑
SW-FLORIDA
CHARLOTTE HARBOR
Boaters paradise! For listings of Waterfront Homes, Condo’s or Vac.
Land, contact CHRISTA MURCH,
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cm@sunline.net , www.sunnyland
homes.com ❑
PUNTA GORDA
#1 place to live in Florida. Sail the
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the Andreae Group, experienced
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761-8138. RE/MAX Harbor
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PUNTA GORDA ISLES, FL
Money Magazine
“Best Small Place to Live”
Boaters’ paradise - Direct gulf access
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COASTAL NORTH CAROLINA
Spectacular lots in waterfront communities with the boater in mind.
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PUNTA GORDA ISLES
Backyard access to the beautiful Charlotte Harbor and Gulf of Mexico.
TOM ARNOLD, (800) 497-5834,
RE/MAX Harbor Realty. www.boat
fromhome.com, tom@pgliving.com ❑
MARINE BOOKS
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If you enjoy Cruising World you’ll
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Bay City, MI 48707 Ph. 866-937-8797
www.westsystem.com
E-Mail your
classified ad
classifieds@cruisingworld.com
157
MARKETPLACE
NEW & USED SAILS
BUY-SELL-CONSIGN
Large Inventory. (800) 783-6953,
(727) 327-5361. www.mastheadsail
inggear.com ❑
MARKETPLACE
Advertiser
Index
PG #
SAILBOATS
Alerion
401-683-5890
C2,1
Broadblue USA
877-695-0358
www.broadblueusa.com
28
Catalina
818-884-7700
www.catalinayachts.com
8
Delphia Yachts
www.delphiayachts.com
21
Elan Marine
www.elan-marine.com
23
Fountaine Pajot Catamarans
011 33 546 357040
73
Gozzard Yachts
510-524-2120
www.gozzard.com
76
Hanse Yachts
410-626-1493
www.hanseyachts.com
37
Hunter Marine
800-771-5556
www.huntermarine.com
C4
Hylas Yachts
800-875-5114
www.hylasyachtsusa.com
67
Jeanneau America Inc.
410-757-7765
www.JenneauAmerica.com
7
Kanter Yachts
519-633-1058
www.kanteryachts.com
35
Manta Catamarans
941-358-8118
www.mantacatamarans.com
32
Najad
401-846-8442
www.najad.com
15
The Moorings/Yacht Ownership 888-703-3176
www.moorings.com
65
Outbound Yachts
949-275-2665
www.outboundyachts.com
33
Oyster Marine
401-846-7400
www.oystermarine.com
31
PDQ Yachts
888-297-2287
www.pdqyachts.com
26
Performance Cruising
410-626-2720
www.PerformanceCruising.com
77
Portsmouth Marine
401-682-1712
www.yachtworld.com
27
Shannon Yachts
401-603-4535
www.shannonyachts.com
17
Wauquiez International SA
001-33-320 031 461 www.wauquiez.com
C3
SAILS, SPARS, RIGGING
Selden Mast Inc.
843-760-6278
www.seldenmast.com
64
Garmin
913-397-8200
www.garmin.com
29
Navman
866-628-6261
www.navmanusa.com
25
XM WX Satellite Weather
321-751-9202
www.xmwxweather.com
34
ELECTRONICS
HARDWARE / ACCESSORIES
158
The Canvas Store
631-549-0970
www.thecanvasstore.com
Harken Inc.
262-691-3320
www.harken.com
Kato Marine
401-269-1218
www.katomarine.com
84
Sea Recovery
800-354-2000
www.searecovery.com
66
Speedseal
800-675-1105
www.speedseal.com
82
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
85
4
December 2005
For instant info, go to www.cruisingworld.com and click on “Buyers Zone.”
PG #
PERSONAL SAILING GEAR
Gill North America Ltd.
www.gillna.com
36
MISCELLANEOUS
PG #
Sunsail
800-797-5307
www.sunsail.com
Swift Yacht Charters
508-647-1554
www.swiftyachts.com
104-105,119
118
Tortola Marine Management LTD 800-633-0155
www.sailtmm.com
98
Annapolis Sailing School
800-638-9192
www.annapolissailing.com
120
VIP Yacht Charters
866-847-9224
www.vipyachts.com
115
Blue Water Sailing School
954-763-8464
www.bwss.com
120
Voyage Charters
888-869-2436
www.voyagecharters.com
113
Yachting Vacations
800-447-0080
www.yachtingvacations.com
117
Cruising World Calendar
www.cruisingworld.com
96
Harmony Township
800-540-2144
www.harmonytownship.com
11
Int’l Yacht Restoration School
401-848-5777
www.iyrs.com
79
2 Hulls, Inc.
954-525-3326
www.2hulls.com
140
Int’l Marine Insurance Services 410-827-3757
www.IMIScorp.net
83
Cabrillo Yacht Sales
619-523-1745
www.cabrilloyachts.com
139
Kuffel, Collimore & Company
877-335-123
www.lifeboatmedical.com
82
The Catamaran Company
954-727-0016
www.catamarans.com
Mecray
888-847-2121
72
Eastern Yacht Sales Inc.
781-749-8600
www.easternyacht.com
Safety at Sea
401-683-0800
www.ussailing.org/safety/seminars/
90
Eastern Yacht, LLC
561-844-1100
www.yachtworld.com/easternyachts 135
West Marine
800-BOATING
www.westmarine.com
19
Eastland Yachts, Inc.
860-767-8224
www.eastlandyachts.com
132
Westlawn Institute
203-359-0500
www.westlawn.org
84
Gratitude Yacht Sales
410-639-7111
www.gratitudeyachting.com
140
The Hinckley Company
207-244-5531
www.hinckleyyachts.com
131
Adventure Charters
800-521-7552
www.sailingcharters.com
78,82,83,90
Annapolis Bay Charters
800-9911776
www.annapolisbaycharters.net
Antilles Sail.com
124-125
136
Horizon Yacht Charters Ltd.
877-494-8787
www.horizonyachtcharters.com
129
117
Interyacht Inc
410-280-6100
www.interyacht.com
126
+590-690-57-06-24 www.antilles-sail.com
119
Joel F. Potter, CYS
954-462-5869
BareCat Charters
800-296-5287
www.barecat.com
120
Barefoot Yacht Charters
784-456-9526
www.barefootyachts.com
CYOA Charters
800-944-CYOA
www.cyoacharters.com
The Catamaran Company
800-262-0308
www.catamarans.com
Conch Charters Ltd.
800-521-8939
www.conchcharters.com
119
Ed Hamilton Inc.
800-621-7855
www.ed-hamilton.com
120
Florida Yacht Charters & Sales 305-532-8600
www.floridayacht.com
108-109
Footloose / The Moorings
888-852-4666
www.footloosecharters.com
Horizon Yacht Charters Ltd
877-494-8787
www.horizonyachtcharters.com 106-107
BOAT SALES
Island Yachts
340-775-6666
www.iyc.vi
118
NewBoats.com
King Yacht Charters
800-521-7552
www.sailingcharters.com
120
Kiriacoulis Mediterranean
800-714-3411
www.kiriacoulis.com
116
The Moorings
888-703-3176
www.moorings.com
102-103,115
NW Explorations
800-826-1430
www.nwexplorations.com
117
Offshore Sailing School
800-221-4326
www.offshore-sailing.com
112
Olympic Yacht Charters
877-2GREECE
www.olympicyachtcharters.com
116
Southwest Florida Yachts Inc.
800-262-7939
www.swfyachts.com
118
CRUISING WORLD DECEMBER 2005
122-123
Jordan Yacht & Ship Company 954-522-8650
www.jordanyachtandship.com
130
110-111
The Moorings
800-850-4081
www.mooringsbrokerage.com
127
114
Morris Yachts
207-244-5509
www.morrisyachts.com
137
The Multihull Company
610-617-0500
www.multihullcompany.com
133
Oyster Marine
011-441 473 688 888 www.oystermarine.com
134
SGA Yachts
954-767-4577
www.SGA-Yachts.com
128
Southern Trades
284-494-8003
www.southerntrades.com
138
Wizard Yacht Sales
831-476-9639
99,100-101,119
91
140
2,3
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159
M
MARKETPLACE
ARKETPLACE
CHARTER COMPANIES
BROKERAGE COMPANIES
LOG OF
ITHAKA
It’s About Respeck, Mon
To spend a month on Jamaica’s north shore is to become steeped in the
poetry of disappointment and desperation—as well as of love, longing,
and hope BY DOUGLAS BERNON
160
C RU I S I N G WO R L D
DECEMBER 2005
DOUG LAS B E R NON
I
N PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA, THE MOUNTAINS ARE BLUE,
handshake I’ve ever seen, followed by a deep intonation of the
the ganja is green, the people are black, and the rage words “Respeck, mon,” were forever offering to serve as paid
that beats just below the surface can be palpable. After guides to the Blue Mountains, local waterfalls, or coffee fincas.
being there a month, we put to sea from this perfectly On the way, they talked about their devotion to Rastafarianism
protected and exquisite harbor on the north coast, and and the importance of their music—both are open windows
on that day I admitted to Bernadette that throughout into the Jamaican soul. The poetry of disappointment and deour stay, I’d never felt particularly at ease.
privation, love, longing, and spiritual hope infuses every Rasta
We loved Port Antonio’s secure anchorage. The marina and beat blaring out of every shop, every house, every car.
shipyard are first-rate. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the best
These same guys spoke with pride and relief about Port AnI’ve ever had, and spicy jerk chicken—sold on the street by tonio, a town blessed with plenty of rainfall to feed the crops
glassy-eyed barbecue men tending fancifully decorated grills but hampered by high unemployment, subsistence farming on
fashioned from 55-gallon
small plots, and few paths upward.
drums—was my daily lunch.
Families rely on incomes from
The ladies who work the
working in shops or from commutscores of stalls in the open-air
ing by bus three hours each way to
market were embracing, helpKingston. Education and medical
ful, and funny. It’s worth going
care aren’t free, so few people have
to Port Antonio for them
access to these services beyond the
alone. The town is essentially
basics. Meanwhile, the extraordimatriarchal. It was usually
narily lush marina and shipyard
women running the shops
built and owned by the Jamaican
and working in the markets,
government, which is guarded 24
women conducting business
hours a day and seals much of the
in the banks, women breaking
waterfront behind locked gates,
up street fights. These were
flaunts to the already resentful what
savvy, friendly, middle-aged
is forever beyond their reach.
women who ruled the roosts.
Port Antonio reminded us that
In Jamaica, whites are part
there’s no reason why anyone anyof the wealthy minority, and in The ladies of Port Antonio’s open-air markets were forever where should necessarily welcome
this dramatically poor nation, teasing me—but they were also teaching me how to cook.
cruisers with open arms. We waltz
whose history is rooted in
in, sample life, bargain for tomatoes,
colonial slavery, there persists the inevitable results of racial op- drop a few bucks, and we’re free to leave whenever we choose, impression. It was a rare day I walked down Port Antonio’s streets mune to the tyranny of resident miseries. Over the years, as we’ve
without being reminded of my color. We never felt in danger, but traveled in the Third World—by boat and on foot with backidle younger men, sometimes fueled with cheap, high-octane packs—Bernadette and I have sometimes felt tensions directed at
drink and stirred by poverty, envy, and who-knows-what demons, us for political and economic reasons. Regardless of our means by
felt no compunction about taunting me and others.“Hey, whitey!” American standards and regardless of our kindly intentions,
they’d call out. “Watchu doin’, white boy? Watchu looking at?”
when contrasted with Third World residents, we’re so bizarrely
Breaking through barriers for authentic connection was rare. rich that our arrival can be powerfully unsettling, even infuriatThe social give-and-take of commerce has a form of its own, but ing—no matter how benign or generous we see ourselves.
not one that’s designed to reveal inner worlds. That takes mutuI’ve heard cruisers moan about needing to pinch pennies in
al efforts, where gains are measured in different coin. Occasion- order to cruise. Fair enough. But when we occasionally face hosally, when Bernadette and I got to know local people, we were tility in various ports of call, we’re compelled to acknowledge—
rewarded with thoughtful explanations about the local despera- at least to ourselves—that we’re a privileged few, indulging ourtions, national corruptions, resentments they fear are in- selves wildly. In the face of poverty and limited opportunity, the
tractable, and the inevitable confusions when tourists represent landscape is not an entirely pretty sight.
both oppression and opportunity.
The Rasta guys, who’d greet me with the most complicatedly Log on to the Bernons’ website (www.IthakaSailing.com) for acchoreographed knuckle-thumping, bump-up/bump-down cess to their twice-monthly updates.