Visit Pays de la Loire

Transcription

Pays de la Loire
Your holiday destination
COASTLINE
Great ideas for
coastal walks
VAL DE LOIRE
25 must-see
attractions
30 activities
for all the family!
In association with
Le littoral
Here, all is colourful,
PASSIONATE WINEMAKERS,
exciting cellar visits.
WWW.VINSVALDELOIRE.FR
Photo Michel Plassart
THE VINEYARDS OF THE LOIRE VALLEY
2/3
Editorial
second largest
The Loire region has the
s in France, with
number of protected site
rks and 18 natural
pa
al
four regional natur
le elements argue
reserves. All these tangib
Walkers, of course,
.
in favour of biodiversity
ical data to see this
don’t need these statist
biodiversity.
en their eyes and look
All they need to do is op
or its tributaries. To
at the ocean, the Loire
is on offer, just wander
get an idea of all that
the 39 Small Towns
of
e
through in any on
ion or take one of the
of Character in the reg
trails reserved for
2500km of waymarked
bicycles.
onishing mix of
Pays de la Loire is an ast
d atmosphere. This
an
n
landscapes, vegetatio
the reason why 18 milis also without a doubt
s de la Loire every year
lion visitors choose Pay
on. This supplement
ati
tin
as their holiday des
n to help you (re)
has no other purpose tha
this natural heritage
discover the wealth of
r holiday in Pays de
you
n
pla
and to help you
la Loire…
Cla ude SAU LAI S
Useful sites for preparing your stay:
www.paysdelaloire.co.uk
www.cycling-loire.com
www.http://loire-chateaux.co.uk
www.nautisme.enpaysdelaloire.com
www.balades-nautiques.enpaysdelaloire.com
EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION ENDANGERS YOUR HEALTH. DRINK MODERATE AMOUNT ONLY.
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14/25
26/30
32/37
38/42
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44/45
46/48
LOCAL GEMS
Small Towns of Character
Accommodation with a difference
Quality restaurants
coastline
Le Veillon, a secret and tranquil estuary
La Baule, chic and elegant
Pornic, beacon of the Jade Coast
Les Sables d’Olonne, Saint-Jean-de-Monts
Sea kayaking
Water sports
LOIRE-nature
The Loire
The island of Saint-Aubin in Angers, a natural paradise
Tracing the sources of the Mayenne
Rochemenier, life underground
In the depths of the Saulges caves
Towns and their fascinating waterways
With the Sarthe running through it…
BY BICYCLE
Cycle rides in the Pays de la Loire
The Loire by bicycle
Towns by bicycle
Laval and its towpath
From the Loir to the Loire on the greenway
FAMILY HOLIDAYS
Focus on biodiversity in Beautour
The Lactopôle, a unique museum
Living in a château
Fun activities
WINES AND VINEYARDS
The Maison Joulin – in harmony with nature
Their Muscadet is a hit with senators
MAP OF THE PAYS DE LA LOIRE
MAJOR HIGHLIGHTS IN 2014
TASTE, BRING HOME, TRY
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Local gems
Échos
Small Cities of character: the art of living well
When it comes to the art of living
well in Pays de la Loire, the region’s
"Petites Cités de caractère" (Small
Cities of Character) immediately
come to mind
Tucked away along the banks of the
Sèvre around Nantes, in the woodlands
of Vendée, in Mayenne, Sarthe and
Anjou, the Loire region boasts dozens
of villages with the hallmark "Small
Towns of Character". What all these
villages have in common is their focus
on preserving their heritage, which they
protect with zeal. This is the case, for
example, of Mallièvre, the old weavers’
village in Vendée, of Vouvant, known for
its legends of old, of Apremont and of
Nieul-sur-l’Autize with its royal abbey.
In Anjou, it would be a pity to miss
Montsoreau and Montreuil-Bellay. In
Loire-Atlantique, it is Batz-sur-Mer
which imposes its character, as do Piriacsur-Mer and Le Croisic.
Batz-sur-Mer has been classified a small
Town of Character since 1st January last.
In 2013, like its fellow villages, it stepped up its endeavours, removing illegally posted bills, establishing a heritage
protection area, laying electricity lines
underground, rehabilitating the village
centre and even encouraging local residents to move away from more contemporary-looking plastic windows and
doors so as to preserve the village’s oldworld charm. As a result, while it had
suffered from a poor image in the past
compared to neighbouring Guérande, Le
Pouliguen or Le Croisic, now people stop
off here!
In Mayenne, in their time, Lassay-lesChâteaux (photo opposite), Sainte-Suzanne and Saulges – which put prehistory on the tourist map – all underwent
the same process.
Visitors to Sarthe should make a detour
via Parcé-sur-Sarthe, Fresnay-sur-Sarthe
or Vivoin, with its exceptional priory.
These places have true character and
are well worth a visit during your stay in
Pays de la Loire.
www.pcc-paysdelaloire.fr
Accommodation with a difference for unforgettable nights
Safari Lodge, La Flèche zoo (72)
La cabane de Merlin (49)
Legend has it that Merlin brought the fairy Viviane to a hut hidden at the end of a garden. In
the sublime rural setting of Le Manoir de Merlin
in La Boissière, midway between Craon, Pouancé
and Segré, you can spend a wondrously magical
night in the Cabane de Merlin, a wooden structure tucked away in the wild garden. La Cabane
de Merlin has no water or electricity; it is lit by
hurricane lamp and candle lantern, provided to
you when you arrive.
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This haven for nature lovers is like something
out of your childhood dreams. Transparent ultradesign bubbles, called Bubble Trees, allow you to
spend the night under the stars in total comfort.
Ideal for couples and families in Domaine Les
Vaulx. In La Baconnière, north of Laval, owners
Flavie and François-Nicolas Dubel offer other
unusual accommodation, including cabins over
water…
www.domainedesvaulx.fr
Glamping in Sillé-le-Philippe (72)
Castel Camping de Chanteloup is the only
5-star campsite in Sarthe. The 20-hectare
park has 7 tents offering first-class comfort,
perfect for glamping aficionados. There is a
24m² tent that sleeps 4 and a 19m² tent for
2-3 people, with one or two bedrooms boasting real beds and quilts.
www.chateau-de-chanteloup.com
Les cabanes de Do au Mans (72)
Located in the town centre, just ten minutes’
walk from the alleyways of the old Plantagenet
town centre, a change of scenery is guaranteed
with the three guest cabins. Made of Douglas fir,
each 20m2 cabin has a small patio overlooking
the garden so that you can enjoy the sunshine.
Sleep among the treetops!
Doze off surrounded by nature... Lydia Hervouet
opened this facility in Girouard three years
ago. From March to December, she rents out a
treehouse perched three metres above ground.
"Guests can find their inner child again. There is
no electricity, so they can really switch off from
www.lescabanesdedo.com
A weekend in Villa Cheminée
You’d have to be called Tatzu Nishi to dream this
up... The Japanese artist has built a 1970s house
with a small garden on top of a 15-metre-high
red and white tower echoing the power plant
facing it. The views over the Loire are magnificent and the lighting is beyond words... The
construction, built for the Estuaire Biennial of
Contemporary Art in 2009, has become a very
popular destination. You’ll need to book early to
get a weekend reservation. The garden is open
to the public on Sunday afternoons. Bookings:
0892 464 044.
everyday life." At Indian Forest in Moutiers-lesMauxfaits, four hidden cabins offer more modern
comfort. At Château de la Forêt in Saint-Julien
des Landes, breakfast is delivered to the door.
Cabins and treehouses are popular in Vendée:
there are dozens of packages! !
Quality restaurants for exceptional meals
The Pays de la Loire region has a thriving
restaurant scene. While compiling an exhaustive list of restaurants would be a challenge at best, those we have selected here
are sure to please – and many of them have
earned quality seals to prove it!
Monte-Cristo in Vertou (44)
La Table du Meunier in Chenillé-Changé (49)
Located on the banks of the river Mayenne,
north of Angers, La Table du Meunier boasts a
wide range of dining options. The chef specializes in traditional French cuisine using seasonal
produce and highlighting local ingredients such
as fish, mushrooms and cheese. Enjoy your meal
in the dining room or aboard L’Hirondelle, the
restaurant’s riverboat.
belle and Nicolas Nobis welcome diners from
Tuesday evening to Sunday lunchtime in the
restaurant they opened in Mayenne in April
2010. The chef, who won a Michelin star in 2011,
offers simple, inventive cooking. Dishes are
always made from locally sourced seasonal and
organic produce.
La Chabotterie in St-Sulpice-le-Verdon (85)
Moulin des 4 Saisons in La Flèche (72)
In addition to the tour through the oldest private
park in France, La Flèche zoo offers wilderness
accommodation, in direct contact with nature.
The first, a trapper’s cabin, is located in a recreated Canadian forest, and offers close-up encounters with a pack of white wolves…
www.safari-lodge.fr
La Cave insolite, St-Georges-sur-Layon (49)
Where Morpheus and Bacchus meet... Domaine
du Pont de Livier, in Saint-Georges-sur-Layon, is
a vineyard: nothing unusual so far. Except here,
the owners decided to convert the cellar under
the vineyard into guest accommodation. Facing
the beds are (empty) wine vats, evoking a sense
of place and offering the possibility of hosting
events based around the theme.
www.pontdelivier.com
the treetop cabin, perched on 2.5m high stilts, or
at ground level, you can become a real-life Davy
Crocket. The embankment cabin, between land,
water and air, provides a unique experience. The
last option is the floating cabin in the middle of
a lake.
www.echologia.fr
Bubble Trees in Domaine Les Vaulx (53)
www.manoir-de-merlin.fr
Les cabanes d’Echologia (53)
Combining an incredible panoramic view and
ecological design with all mod cons, these 20
unusual accommodation units spread out over
the Echologia site, a stone’s throw from Laval,
promise magical nights surrounded by nature.
Choose from a teepee, a yurt, a trapper’s tent
or the hilltop cabin for an unforgettable stay. In
Spend a few nights in a teepee
For a couple or a family, for a week or a weekend, overnighting in a teepee will help you get
back in touch with nature and let you indulge
in nostalgic daydreaming... This is now possible
in a number of locations. In Loire-Atlantique, the
tents at Tépacap leisure park in Savenay have
all mod cons. In Vendée, P’tites maisons dans
la prairie in Sallertaine or Orée des chênes in
Girouard focus more on connecting with nature.
Other campsites also have teepees. There’s something for everyone! Rates range from €60 to
€140 a night. In Saint-Fiacre-sur-Maine, Vignoble
Loisirs organisation also offers teepees for hire.
People come here initially for the setting. In the
summer, the huge terrace offers a soothing view
over the Sèvre Nantaise river, the lock and the
Chêne mill, in the heart of wine country. But in
Monte-Cristo, in Vertou, people also come for the
cooking of Jean-Luc Senée, chef here for the past
six years. The service is also on a par with the
refined decor.
Overlooking the Loir river, this 16th-century
mill is a major culinary destination repeatedly
acclaimed by gourmet guidebooks. Chef Camille
Constantin’s cooking is both creative and refined.
Eveil des Sens in Mayenne (53)
In a sleek, contemporary dining room with cosy
wood decor and seating for 20-25 people, Isa-
In Vendée, Thierry Drapeau needs no further
introduction. In the exceptional setting of Logis
de la Chabotterie, the chef, who has two Michelin stars, offers terroir cuisine that is "rich and
inventive". Come and taste the real Vendée, a
stone’s throw from where General Charette was
arrested in 1796!
www.tables-de-qualite.com
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Coastline
Horizons
Nature
along the
coast!
Photo Pascal Baudry
In the distance you catch a glimpse of Pont d’Yeu. Legend has it that this underwater pathway once led to Ile
d’Yeu, a small island off the Vendée coast. The Pont de
Noirmoutier is no legend. Behind it is the huge national
forest of Pays de Monts, with pine trees stretching as far
as the eye can see... Welcome to the top of Belvédère du
Pey de la Blet, in La Barre-de-Monts. This is the highest dune in Vendée, measuring 41m high! All around,
nature reigns supreme. Like the regional shoreline,
protected under a number of Natura 2000 and other
coastal projects.
Extending over 300km, from the Côte d’Amour, in the
north of Loire-Atlantique, to Pointe de l’Aiguillon in the
south of Vendée, are a wide variety of landscapes. In
the hinterland, the salt marshes of Guérande and Noirmoutier, in Brittany or Poitou, rival the huge national
forests, of mostly maritime pine with occasional broadleaved species. The coastline is also surprising. Where
it is wild and rocky, granite predominates in the north,
limestone in the south. Where it is sandy, it is lined with
long beaches of fine sand, and also and above all with
huge dune areas, dotted with marram grass and sea holly. Occasional holm oaks lend the coast a Mediterranean
feel. The effect is astonishing. On some beaches, sustainable cleaning up operations have allowed the nesting
of rare birds, such as the snowy plover in La Barre-deMonts. Tourists are asked to preserve and respect this
fragile balance...
Cliffs at Pointe du Payré in Jard-sur-Mer – South Vendée
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Nature sites
Coastline
The secluded Pointe du Payré
Breathtaking scenery
Photo Pascal Baudry
A stone’s throw from the car park at La
Mine and a far cry from the clamour of the
seaside resort of Jard-sur-Mer, the expedition to Pointe du Payré begins. And, thanks
to the Estuaire competition(1), witnesses
tell all... Beneath our feet, there is another,
secret history in the making. Marking the
exact break between the Aquitaine massif and the Armorican basin, Pointe du
Payré is also an exceptional geological site.
(1) The Estuaire association offers discovery activities about the coastline.
Contact: +33 (0)2 51 20 74 85
The botanical treasures of the Veillon estuary
Le Veillon, a secret and tranquil estuary
West of Talmont-Saint-Hilaire, the estuary of Veillon is not just a superb sandy beach.
Its dunes and trees reveal hidden treasures. Text: Annie Rapin
With its long, turquoise lagoon and south-fa- A little further on, other silhouettes can be
cing beach, how could it be otherwise? Clas- seen flitting between sand and silt. The estuary
sified the premier remarkable site in Vendée, is one of the smallest oyster basins in France,
the estuary of Veillon is a true Eden for surfers, but it is a lively place for all that! Here, geneswimmers and walkers.
rations of oyster farmers work on their oyster
Once past this sandy haven lapped by the Payré beds and seafood lovers pull on their boots to
river, other, more intimate shores await beyond sample the delights of shellfish gathering.
the flower-filled dunes: the woods open out Sculpted by sea and wind, the landscape of
onto an old monastic site. These ancient woods Veillon changes with the seasons and the
of Veillon are home to
years. It offers an
some of the most splenThe estuary is also oneof the astonishing array
did holm oaks on the
of places to discosmallest oyster basins
Atlantic coast. Some
ver, such as dinoholly oaks, the other
saur footprints on
in France
name for holm oaks,
the rock surface
are reputed to be over
in the caves fur300 years old. At dawn or twilight, squirrels ther up the estuary, which date back some 205
and deer can sometimes be seen wandering million years.
through the forest massif. You may even see Other magical moments include storm-blown
the watchman of Veillon, the grey heron, buil- clouds of fairy-like, iridescent Monarch butterding his nest in the treetops. At the slightest flies, completing their Atlantic crossing in just
intrusion, the alarm is raised and the nest emp- two days and eventually finding refuge in the
ties with a great swoosh of wings.
estuary.
www.ot-talmont-bourgenay.com
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A great holiday idea from
enpaysdelaloire.com
INTRODUCTION TO STANDUP PADDLE BOARDING
Let yourself be carried away between
marshes and ocean. Standing on a surfboard
with a paddle in your hand, your guide will
teach you how to navigate… You will stay in
a mobile home 600m from the beach.
From €53 per person (based on a mobile home
sleeping 4) 2 days/1 night
x: 1 night B&B at a 3-star campsite in Bremsur-Mer, sleeping kit for 1 night, and a stand-up
paddle boarding lesson in the salt marshes (1 ½
hours) with a qualified instructor.
Valid throughout 2014 (excl. July & Aug.).
Bookings: +33 (0)2 51 62 76 82
La Venise verte (85)
Offering a refuge for the European otter and
marsh spurge, the nature reserve of Nalliers
Mouzeuil Saint-Martin extends over 132ha
of forested marshland, with fauna and flora
galore... At the visitors’ centre, learn about
the history of the hut-dwellers of the Poitou
marshes, or Green Venice.
www.parc-marais-poitevin.fr
La Brière (44)
A country of reedbeds, canals and thatched cottages, La Brière is the 2nd largest
marshland in France after the Camargue. Hop
on board a flat-bottomed barge, known as a
chaland, to discover the many facets of this
vast expanse with its remarkable fauna and
flora.
www.parc-naturel-briere.fr
Passage du Gois (85)
Soon to be classified a World Heritage Site
by Unesco, this tidal causeway is the only
one of its kind in the world and one of the
largest French oyster basins. Surrounded by
marshland, the site is also the ideal location
for shellfish gathering.
www.passagedugois.com
Ile d’Yeu (85)
From Mesquer to Merquel (44)
Despite measuring just 23km², Ile d’Yeu boasts
some of the Atlantic’s many treasures, including towering cliffs, sandy coves and sunken
paths... From Port de la Meule to Pointe du But,
this is an essential stopping point for nature
lovers.
An itinerary lasting just over 4 hours through
marshland and woodlands. Follow the coast
from the typical village of Kercabellec to
Pointe de Merquel. From here, take in the panoramic views, ideal for observing the migratory birds that stop off here.
www.ile-yeu.fr
www.mesquer-quimiac.com
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Coastline
Le littoral
La Baule beach, 9km of fine sand
The harbour, the loveliest part of Pornic.
La Baule, chic and elegant
Pornic, beacon of the Jade Coast
His restaurant walls are adorned with a succes- which leads onto the beach, has as many handsion of overlapping photos, including Patrick some boutiques as culinary specialities. These
Bruel, Johnny Hallyday and Patrice Leconte. All include the famous niniche made at Manuel’s
confectioners and the delicious treats of chocothese celebrities are regulars at Nossy Be.
Like most celebrities who frequent La Baule, late maker Christophe Roussel. "It’s not to be
they come mainly to recharge their batteries. missed," says Stéphane Malhaire. "He created a
Seawater therapy centres, golf courses, casinos, chocolate cake for Nossy Be, which we call the
and prestigious hotels like the famous Hermi- Roussel." Since last summer, when the covered
tage, La Baule has it all to attract the well-off. market was reopened, the locals have redisco"It’s not Saint-Tropez," explains Stéphane Mal- vered the renovated, dynamic market quarter.
"There are now
haire, owner of Nossy
lots of small bisBe. "People don’t come
"People don’t come
tros and tapas
here to party, they come
bars," says the
to rest." Set back from
here to party, they
boss of Nossy Be.
the embankment, the
come to rest"
"The atmosphere
avenues under the pine
in the market
trees, bathed in calm, reStéphane Malhaire, owner of Nossy Be
sets the tone for
veal a multitude of villas
the weekend: we
of varying architecture
styles. The jewel of La Baule is its 9km expanse know if we’re going to have a lot of customers
of fine sand, which was voted one of the most or not." And on good days, people flock to Chez
beautiful bays in the world in 2011. Sporty types Titi to savour a plate of oysters washed down
play beach-volley or go kite-surfing, while fami- with a glass of wine. It’s an essential part of the
way of life in La Baule.
lies enjoy the safe waters.
www.labaule.fr
For shoppers, Avenue du Général de Gaulle,
The writer Gustave Flaubert, the painter Pierre- garden under the trees. "It’s the nicest place in
Auguste Renoir and even the politician Lenin all Pornic," he says. Georges Parola is an ambassador
stayed here. A popular holiday destination since for his town and its culinary specialities, from Brithe early 19th century, Pornic has retained all its gantine beer to Saint-Michel biscuits, or galettes,
charm, and is envied for its tiny coves and wild made just a few miles down the road. And the
coastline, spared from over-development. Just restaurant owners pay him back in kind. Many of
walk through the maze of alleyways in the old them serve his cheese, such as the Bistronomique
town, on the coast road of Gourmelon with its which serves fish with a sauce made with Curé
lovely villas, and you’ll be convinced. "Pornic has Nantais cheese. His favourite walks include the
developed in a good way. The town was spared coastal footpath from La Fontaine aux Bretons.
A few miles facing
from over-development. It
has remained simple and
"Pornic has developed in a the sea dotted by
fishing
family-friendly, with an
good way. It was spared from traditional
grounds, symbolic of
invigorating boost of enerthe Jade Coast. From
gy brought by a seawater
over-development"
the town centre,
therapy centre, a golf
Georges Parola, owner of Curé Nantais
Georges
Parola
course, and retail parks
takes another route,
on the outskirts of town,"
says Georges Parola, who runs the Curé Nantais leading this time to the beach of Noëveillard, with
cheese factory, a source of local pride. His family its sailing club, its retro beach huts and its new
has been in Pornic for three generations and he marina. "I love this place, watching the boats, haloves the simplicity of his home town. "There’s no ving a drink in the evening, when the atmosphere
upmarket stuff here, no Michelin-starred restau- is more subdued." For more peace and quiet, our
rant, but we don’t miss it." One of his favourite guide heads towards Sainte-Marie to find refuge
treats is having an ice-cream at La Fraiseraie by in one of its coves. These are always quiet, even at
the old harbour, either sitting on the wall or in the the height of summer.
La Baule is primarily a matter of class. This chic resort is embodied by local man Stéphane
Malhaire, who runs Nossy Be, a restaurant popular with passing celebrities. Text: David Prochasson
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enpaysdelaloire.com
SEASIDE GET-AWAY IN
PORNICHET
If you’re tired and stressed… Enjoy
the benefits of seawater therapy!
This hotel with all mod cons and
direct access to the seawater therapy
centre, is right beside the beach.
From €169.50 per person (based on 2
sharing) 2 days/1 night
Price includes: 3-star hotel accommodation (double room), breakfast, 1 meal,
1-day seawater therapy pass (1 jacuzzi,
1 aqua aerobics session, 1 massage),
and access to the aquafitness centre.
Valid all year round except 5, 6, 20 and
27/07 and 24/08
Bookings: +33 (0)2 40 61 33 33
Trails overlooking isolated coves, culinary specialities… Georges Parola, who runs the
famous Curé Nantais cheese factory, talks about Pornic, his native town. Text: David Prochasson
Walks in the botanical
gardens on the estuary
Since last summer, Pornic estuary, formerly a
wasteland, has been home to 13-hectare botanical gardens. Over almost two kilometres,
from the harbour at the head of the estuary,
the different facets of the town’s landscapes
unfurl and the exotic aromas wafting on the
sea breeze mingle with the wilder ones of the
marshes.
www.ot-pornic.fr
11
Coastline
The beach at Les Sables-d’Olonne is a favourite tourist spot in the Pays
There’s always something to discover on the GR8 trail.
Les Sables, its beach, its promenade…
"A postcard from the GR8"
The promenade has once again become a place coast. On the other, the town, a more or less harfor walkers. Although it has not been restored to monious row of buildings. In contrast to La Baule,
its original design, the longest walkway in Les for example, many villas in Les Sables-d’Olonne
Sables-d’Olonne has been returned to its origi- are not hidden away. "There are entire blocks of
nal use as a promenade where people above all them," observes Priscilla Giboteau, a tour guide,
come to be seen, enjoy a pleasant Sunday stroll one of whose tours includes a visit around the
or lounge in the sun before taking a dip in the area, admiring these houses from another era.
"Many have been divided up into flats and some
sea below.
The promenade is a symbol of the changes that still belong to old local families."Most date from
marked this seaside resort. Built from a 16th- the 19th century. Art Nouveau, Art Deco or neoregional style, like
century wall to protect
in the Presidents’
the town from storms,
"There are entire
quarter, south of
it was later banked up
the promenade,
in the mid-18th century,
blocks of villas"
where
large
and at the time had one
Priscilla Giboteau, tour guide
Basque houses
sole purpose: fisherwogradually sprang
men used to hang out
their fishing nets here and ropemakers their up, the villas of Les Sables have marked the
ropes. The arrival of the first bathers in 1816 and history of the town. The most iconic of these is
the advent of seaside tourism were to change the aptly named Villa Mirasol, on the corner of
everything. Architect Maurice Durand designed Rue Travot and Promenade Lafargue, or Palazzo
Clementina by architect Charles Charrier, near
the promenade in the post-war era.
The place still embodies the essence of Les Place Navarin, recognisable from its Italianate
Sables. On one side, a huge south-facing beach, style and the tower overlooking it. The beach is
protected from the dominant wind and consi- not all there is to Les Sables...
dered one of the most beautiful on the Atlantic
www.lessablesdolonne-tourisme.com
My dear friend,
I’m writing to you from the Vendée coast. This
year, I decided to explore it on foot. A backpack,
sturdy walking boots and a good mood is all I
need. The GR8 is a fine waymarked trail. You can
start at the small harbour at the northernmost
tip of the department. The trail is an extension to
the famous coastal footpath, in Loire-Atlantique.
Just follow the parallel red and white signage.
I’ve been wearing out my boots for the last
three days. In the marshes, I’ve seen egrets,
herons and avocets. I’ve also come across many
tiny harbours where eels were caught in the last
century. The local oyster farmers – there are 180
throughout the Bay of Bourgneuf – now seem
to have the place to themselves. This can easily
be seen in Port-du-Bec, for example, between
Bouin and Beauvoir-sur-Mer. It’s known as the
"Chinese harbour" because of its wooden jetties. It’s difficult to describe. It’s like a 19th-century painting, except for one detail: as soon as
the tide comes in it comes to life. "The oyster
cages are loaded onto trailers," says native
Maurice Barreau, co-founder of a local walking
group. "Here all the old tractors have been restored, the salt ruins them very fast!"
The reputation of Les Sables-d’Olonne, the most prestigious resort in Vendée, is
well-deserved. A walk along the main beach is enough to confirm this. Text: Antoine Gazeau
12
Saint-Jean-de-Monts,
beyond the clichés
The second most popular seaside resort, SaintJean-de-Monts, is so much more than the
huge beach of Les Demoiselles or its 1970s
beachfront developments. It’s also a charming town centre, protected dunes, traditional
bourrines (mud-walled thatched cottages) and
a national forest. Come and (re)discover it, on
foot, by bicycle or from the treetops...
www.saint-jean-de-monts.com
Greetings sent from the GR8, which runs along the coast over almost 250km. That
certainly merits a postcard! Text: Antoine Gazeau
The first night, I slept in Fromentine. You know
the place, this is where you catch the boat for
Ile d’Yeu. The resort itself is quite charming. At
low tide, an unusual sight emerges: the Four
Aces – German minesweepers sunk by the Allies
in 1944...
Day 2. "When you can see Ile d’Yeu, that means
it’s going to rain," laughs Thérèse Bonal, leaning
on an observation post facing the ocean. "If you
can’t see it, that means it’s already raining..."
The path then led us to Sion-sur-l’Océan. Along
the coast road, the elements rage in stormy
weather, I’m told. Today, the weather was fine.
Among the 1970s developments of little architectural value, some interesting villas and even
mansions have survived. One of these is the
enormous Hôtel Frédéric. Almost one hundred
years old, it looks as if it came straight out of an
Agatha Christie novel. Is it a coincidence that a
certain Julien Gracq, the famous French surrealist, once lived nearby?
Next we head for Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie. The
Petit-Maroc quarter, the fisherman’s house, the
main beach – there are plenty of wonders here.
But there’s no room left on the postcard...
http://vendee.ffrandonnee.fr
enpaysdelaloire.com
DESTINATION: ILE D’YEU
The incomparable charm of Ile d’Yeu
will delight nature lovers.
Its jagged cliffs, sentinel castle and
fine sandy beaches stand facing the
ocean.
From €139 per person (based on 2
Price includes: return boat trip from
Fromentine or St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie,
hotel or B&B accommodation, breakfast,
dinner (excluding drinks), bicycle hire (2
days), route brochure, booking fees.
Valid throughout 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 51 54 09 88
13
Coastline
Above and
below the surface
"Kayaking lets you experience the coast like never before as you navigate along the water’s edge."
Kayaking, the coastline from a different perspective
Kayak Nomade offers tours of the Jade Coast and Noirmoutier by kayak. The trip includes
exploring the local heritage and the marine environment. Text: David Prochasson
When he is not in the warm waters of a lagoon in canal was built to connect Nantes and Pornic
New Caledonia, Florent Fournier-Mottet kayaks while circumventing the Loire and its sandin the Atlantic Ocean. From April to September, banks," says Florent Fournier-Mottet. In the evehis company Kayak Nomade takes almost 400 ning, the instructor offers sunset tours, paddling
people out on board and covers up to 1,000km. alongside the fishing boats leaving the harbour.
In total safety. "Kayaking is quick to learn," he During the day, he heads for the Jade Coast, to
says. "It’s a sport that gets you right out on the discover Château de Pornic, the fishing grounds
water and allows you to discover the coastline." along the coves, and cormorants.
An environmental engineering graduate, this The more challenging all-day tour takes in the
instructor enjoys imparting both his skills and major coastal sights, from the majestic cliffs of
Pointe Saint-Gilinformation about the
in Préfailles to
coastal heritage.
"Kayaking is a sport that gets das
the Pornic estuary.
"In a kayak, the instrucThe final option is
tor is on a par with the
you right out on the water,"
the Noirmoutier
learner."
Florent Fournier-Mottet, instructor
coast.
Starting
from Anse Rouge,
He offers five varied
tours between Pornic and Noirmoutier. His expe- this tour takes in Bois de la Chaize and long
ditions start inland in Pornic. With its trees, its sandy beaches. And because effort should meet
birds of prey and its dragonflies, Canal de Haute with reward, each tour ends with a glass of
Perche is ideal for families looking for calmer grape juice.
waters and wishing to find out more about a
little-known part of the Pornic heritage. "The
14
On the polders of
Noirmoutier
Bird-watching in
Ile d’Olonne
The Sébastopol reserve is home to one of
France’s largest seabird colonies. From May to
July, between 3,000 and 4,000 nesting pairs,
including common and sandwich terns, set up
home in these polders north of Passage du
Gois. Waymarked trails provide access to this
protected site.
www.cdc-iledenoirmoutier.com
Whimbrels, pied avocets, Eurasian spoonbills… Each year, almost 180 species pass
through the marshes of Olonne. Adev, a local
environmental protection society, has set up
an observation post that is open to the public.
Guides are on hand to assist the public during
the summer.
www.paysdelaloire.fr/les-pays-de-laloire/réservesregionales
Webbed feet in
Ile d’Yeu
Aquatic walking gains
popularity in Saint-Michel
On Ile d’Yeu, Sub’Evasion offers snorkelling
tours. A family outing starting out from Port
de la Meule or Pissotte cove will see sea bass,
bream and pouting as well as an extraordinary diversity of algae on the granite reefs.
This sport involves actively walking with the
sea up to your chest: a simple enough concept.
This booming sport, which originated in northern France, arrived in Saint-Michel-Chef-Chef
last year. Health and fitness guaranteed!.
www.ouestcoaching.fr
www.adev-asso.fr
enpaysdelaloire.com
SUNSET ON THE SEA
IN PORNIC
Go kayaking off the coast of Pornic
followed by a picnic for 2… and end
the evening in the Best Western,
which combines comfort and modernity. The next day, avail of the spa, the
steam room or the fitness centre.
From €113.50* for 2 days & 1 night per
person sharing
Price includes: 1 night’s accommodation in a 3-star hotel, buffet breakfast,
access to the wellness centre, 1½ hour
kayaking trip and a picnic basket.
Valid from May to October 2014
*€17 extra from July to September
Bookings: +33 (0)2 40 82 04 40
Outrigger canoeing in
Les Sables d’Olonne
Kite-surfing: where
wind and water meet
The Vendée Va’a race is held from 28 to 31
May. Starting from Les Sables d’Olonne, this
outrigger canoe race is one of the hardest in
Europe. It’s the only one to take place in the
open sea. Events are held on terra firma every
year, hoisting the colours of Polynesia.
Why not try kite-surfing during your stay in the
Pays de la Loire? The area has become a real
hot-spot for enthusiasts due to its vast beaches
which are safer and more fun to surf on. Several
clubs located in La Baule, Pornichet, Noirmoutier, Fromentine, Saint-Jean-de-Monts, Brétignolles-sur-Mer and La Tranche-sur-Mer offer
classes to quickly teach you the basics and get
your kite-surfing experience "off the ground".
www.vendeevaa.com
www.glissevolution.com
15
Loire-nature
Horizons
The Loire
connecting
people
with
nature
Over the centuries the longest river in France has shaped
the history of civilisations, which each in turn have tried
to tame it.
To little avail! A royal river, whose banks witnessed the
development of royalty, trade and tourism, the Loire has
only rarely bowed to human contingency. More than
any other river, it has retained its wild side.
While it is true that the river has not been spared the
trappings of civilisation since ancient times, it still
remains a paradise of biodiversity even today. Fauna,
flora, landscapes... The richness of the Loire ecosystem is
such that the entire river was classified a Natura 2000
site of community importance, at the same time as the
Sully-sur-Loire - Chalonnes-sur-Loire section was ranked
a World Heritage Site.
Photo Antonio Bozzardi
A testament to human history and guarantor of biodiversity, the river only offers up its secrets to those humble travellers prepared to discern its true nature...
The Loire has retained its wild side. It only offers up its secrets
to those who take the time to get to know it.
16
17
Loire-nature
Along the Loire
Along the Loire
Montsoreau
Gennes
Within reach by local gabare boat, the village
of Montsoreau, ranked as one of the prettiest
villages in France, owes its renown to the tuffeau stone of its château, celebrated by Balzac,
and to its flea market. Not to be missed.
At the junction of a number of Roman roadways – the town was the obligatory crossing
point over the river Loire – Gennes bears the
traces of those ancient times, notably in the
form of its Gallo-Roman amphitheatre. This
was also where a handful of Cadets de Saumur held out heroically against the German
invaders for three days in June 1940.
www.ville-montsoreau.fr
www.gennes.fr
Fontevraud
Béhuard
In turn a monastery, a prison and then a cultural venue, the abbey of Fontevraud forges a
link between the English and the French – the
most famous of the Plantagenets are buried
here. This is a unique tourist site in what was
formerly the largest monastic town in Europe.
The entire village is located on the only river
island on the Loire, between the Savennières
hills and Rochefort-sur-Loire. A pilgrimage destination dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Béhuard
also boasts some of the finest Loire landscapes
in the region.
www.abbayedefontevraud.com
www.behuard.mairie49.fr
By rail
The refuge of French writer Julien Gracq offers
one of the finest views over the Loire valley
from the summit of Mont-Glonne.
A single train ticket is sometimes all that’s needed to explore a region. The Regional express
train (TER) that runs between Nantes and Saumur lets you tour the Loire and stop off at any
station on the river bank along the way.
www.ville-saintflorentlevieil.fr
www.ter-sncf.com
The picturesque soul of
Trentemoult
From 2007 to 2012, the Estuaire Biennial of
Contemporary Art planted 24 works of art
along the riverbanks, including this Maison
dans la Loire (photo), by Jean-Luc Courcoult.
The artistic tour from Nantes to Saint-Nazaire
reveals landscapes that are both wild and
industrialised.
With its narrow alleyways and colourful
houses, Trentemoult in Rezé is picture-perfect.
This former fishing and seafaring village has
preserved its picturesque soul. Treat yourself
to a drink on the terrace directly facing the
river Loire.
www.estuaire.info
Shows at Donjon
d’Oudon
The serenity of Canal de
la Martinière
A watchtower over the Loire as well as a stately home, Donjon d’Oudon and its medieval
fortifications today host a family-friendly animated show.
Scenery, films and light shows relate the events
that have marked the history of the river.
Families and fishermen like to come here for a
picnic in the shade of the willows and poplar
trees. Built in the late 19th century to prevent the silting up of the Loire and thus save
the port of Nantes, Canal de la Martinière is
a recognised haven of natural and technical
heritage.
www.loire-en-scene.fr
Saint-Florent-le-Vieil
The open-air museum
of Estuaire
www.nantes-tourisme.com
The eccentricities
of Folies Siffait
Fauna and flora in the
Audubon marshes
This park is as enigmatic as it is disconcerting.
Built in Le Cellier on the banks of the Loire in
the early 19th century, the Folies of Maximilien Siffait are a maze of stone stairways and
terraces leading… nowhere. The site offers
splendid views over the river.
A refuge for storks, with the abundant
fauna and flora of the estuary, the marshes
of Couëron take their name from the famous
naturalist Jean-Jacques Audubon, who lived
here. Two circuits, one for walkers, (4.7km),
the other for cyclists (10.5km), allows visitors
to explore this 2000-hectare area.
www.pays-ancenis-tourisme.fr
© Le Square d.
18
19
Nature
Loire-nature
Photo Olivier Blin
Le littoral
Classified a Natura 2000 area, the island of Saint-Aubin is remarkable for its biodiversity.
In the Valley of Saint-Calais-du-Désert, Michel Ameline and Karine Ravaux work hard to preserve the fragile environment.
The island of Saint-Aubin, a natural paradise
Tracing the sources of the Mayenne
This place is well worth a visit. It is a timeless pens here is remarkable in terms of biodiversity,
and tranquil haven where ancient trees and to the extent that the site has been classified as
migratory birds have come to take up residence. a Natura 2000 area.
We are on the island of Saint-Aubin, a little Upon entry to the island, just behind the only
piece of land (600 hectares all the same) formed restaurant, a venerable 35-metre-high plane
by the confluence of the Sarthe, the Mayenne tree aged 170 years stands there, as a reminder
and the Vieille Maine. The motorway to Nantes of the rarity of this place.
is nearby... but oh so distant! The centre of An- The symbol of the low Anjou valleys, most of the
gers is only a few minutes away by bicycle along island of Saint-Aubin is commonage for grazing
animals. It also has a farm, renovated by the
the towpath leading to the hospital.
city of Angers, on
Here, it is nature that
highest point
decides if you can go
A little piece of land formed by the
of the island, in
on the island. For 6 to
9 months depending on the confluence of the Sarthe, the memory of the
monks who lived
the year, Saint-Aubin is
out of reach, because Mayenne and the Vieille Maine here for centuries.
Everywhere else,
97% of it is flooded.
nature reigns supreme hidden from human eyes.
Patience is a virtue.
Even when the waters recede, the island still Willows, poplars and oaks grow, sheltered away
from the world, and baby ash trees have been
cannot be reached by car.
The local association managing the site and planted to encourage biodiversity.
comprising the 93 landowners here keeps a During the winter, when the island is under waclose eye on things. There is only one point of ter, migratory birds come to nest here, drawn by
entry to the island, a ferry powered by elbow the rich food from the high meadows and shelgrease. It’s a prerequisite to protect the site from tered from predators.
the ravages of time and civilisation. What hap- Far away from the hue and cry...
www.angersloiretourisme.com
A little piece of nature with a river running nitrogen and phosphorus. This all contributes to
the balance of the river," says Michel Ameline,
through it.
We are in the valley of Saint-Calais-du-Désert who runs the environmental centre in the park.
north of Mayenne. Don’t be fooled by the name The only thing interrupting the peace and quiet
of this charming village (pop. 400). There’s no is the babbling brook and the birdsong. Beside
desert here, but rather a rural landscape of the mill, a graceful wooden walkway crosses
hedgerows and meadows crossed by the river over the river Mayenne. The prolific aquatic flora
Mayenne. From Saint-Calais-du-Désert, take has made itself at home on the banks. It’s not
the path leading to Moulin de Cordouen. With rare to see a brown trout darting between the
its water wheel and reach supplied by the river, stones carpeting the riverbed.
"It’s a species
this former flour mill
from the salmonid
probably dates back to
"The water meadows have
family, typical of
the 16th century and
the small basin
was renovated in the
an ecological function,"
head streams,"
19th century. NowaMichel Ameline, environmental centre
adds Karine Radays, the mill has fallen
vaux, project masilent but it offers a good
starting point for walkers and fishermen. Many nager for the natural environment in Mayenne
trails start nearby, including the Moulins looped departmental council. In partnership with the
walk or the Circuit des Vallées. We are below fishing federation, the department is working
the coast road of Pail, in the Normandie-Maine to open this area to fishing. There is a "no-kill"
fishing area in Le Teilleul, with the trout returned
regional park.
"During flood periods, the water meadows to the river after being caught. This is one way
have an important ecological function because of encouraging fishermen to preserve this charthey retain water and purify nutrients such as ming piece of nature.
3km from the centre of Angers, the island, shaped by agriculture and the human hand, is a
major biodiversity site. Not to be missed. Text: Sébastien Rochard
20
enpaysdelaloire.com
IN THE HEART OF THE
LOIRE-ANJOU TOURAINE
NATURE PARK
Treat yourself over the course of this
discovery weekend. Visit Maison du
Parc in Montsoreau, Doué Biopark,
the Abbey of Fontevraud, take a boat
trip and savour the traditional fouées
filled bread snacks.
From €125 per person 2 days/1 night
Price includes: accommodation, breakfast, tours, boat trip, a fouée snack and
travel pack.
Valid every weekend from April to October 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 41 40 20 67
In the north of the department, in the heart of a preserved natural environment, the river
is a delight for walkers and fishermen. Text: Anne-Marie d’Argentré
enpaysdelaloire.com
KAYAKING ON THE
MAYENNE
Kayaking for beginners on the
Mayenne river between Laval and
Château-Gontier. The kayaks are
French-made Nautiraids. Overnight
accommodation in B&Bs along the
river bank.
sharing)
3 days/2 nights
Price includes: 2 nights B&B, 2 dinners,
kayak and all equipment, map, technical
assistance and transfer.
Valid from April to September 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 43 53 52 43
21
Loire-nature
In the depths of the Saulges caves
An exceptional and unique natural site, the canyon and caves of Saulges in Mayenne
offer visitors a journey through time. Prehistory and leisure all in one. Text: Cédric Soulier
Photo Frank Perry
The mushroom beds
of Le Saut aux Loups
The cave dwellings are protected from damp and intense heat and cold.
Rochemenier, life underground
Mid-way between Angers and Saumur, Rochemenier has cultivated its difference for seven
hundred years. The caves here were inhabited up to 1963. Well worth a visit. Text: Sébastien Rochard
It’s easy to work, doesn’t catch fire, doesn’t cost This is where Frédéric Marteau settled a little
much, and can even bring in enough to feed a over a year ago. He is the joint manager of the
troglodyte village of Rochemenier, the most
family.
Seven hundred years ago, at the end of the complete site in the Loire Valley, owned by the
Middle Ages, the locals of Rochemenier and town. "We want to make visits meaningful,
its surrounding area dug into the falun, a local we want every tool exhibited to have its own
place."
stone composed of shells, to make dwellings.
Even better, the entire village, located on a The two farms in the troglodyte village were
plain between Angers and Saumur, was dug still inhabited until relatively recently. "Léon
out underground. They didn’t know it yet, but and Marie Choiseau, farmers and breeders of
angora rabbits,
the inhabitants of the
lived here just 50
time founded what has
"We
want
to
make
years ago," says
become one of the main
visits meaningful"
Frédéric Marteau.
tourist attractions in the
Saumur region. Upriver, F. Marteau, manager of the troglodyte village In spartan conditions yes, but
east of Saumur, the hill"protected from
side cave dwellings, dug
into tuffeau, the local sandy chalk stone, were damp, intense heat and very low temperatures,"
later used to cultivate mushrooms and sub- he explains to visiting schoolchildren from Paris.
sequently as major local wine houses. Further This way of life in the shelter of the rock, from
inland, falun reigns supreme in the plain cave a time of the past, continues to attract many
dwellings, architectural curiosities unique throu- visitors and arouse the curiosity of thousands
of tourists.
ghout Europe.
www.troglodyte.info
22
enpaysdelaloire.com
A ROMANTIC BREAK ON THE
BANKS OF THE LOIRE
Walks along the river, an intimate dinner
for two… write your own episode of "Love,
Loire and Beauty"! Near the château of
Ancenis, in a 19th-century mansion, the
hostess welcomes you for a romantic weekend with a candlelit dinner.
From €61 per person (based on 2 sharing)
2 days/1 night
Price includes: double room, breakfast and
gourmet dinner with pre-dinner cocktail.
Bookings: 0 810 044 001
(call from France only)
The cave of Rochefort is famous for its sinkhole, accessible to visitors.
About 40km from Laval, on the boundary dating from modern and contemporary times.
between Sarthe and Mayenne, the small town Crossing the canyon via its meadow brings visiof character of Saulges offers visitors an asto- tors to the second cave open to the public. This
nishing natural heritage. Over thousands of cave is larger and has many galleries. Rochefort
years, the Erve, a small underground river, carved cave has a 15-metre sinkhole that visitors can
out a canyon over almost 2km, creating natural explore via two ladders attached to the rock.
landscapes worthy of the limestone plateaux of Thrills guaranteed!
"This Rochefort cave was where the latest
the Massif Central.
In this haven of tranquillity, filled with silence and most interesting archaeological finds took
and bliss, unusual vegetation has taken root, place. Many discoveries attest to the presence
including dry grassland moors, boxwood and of humans since the Mid and Upper Paleolithic
juniper. Nestled in the limestone walls on either (between 300,000 and 10,000 B.C.)," says the
side of the canyon are some twenty caves that guide. "And archaeologists have uncovered
are the subject of geological expeditions and many prehistoric remains, including an engraarchaeological research. Only two of them are ved shaly sandstone slab on which an ibex is
open to the public. Grotte à Margot, famous for painted, human remains from the Solutrean era
and the remains of
its overwintering bat
animals such as deer,
colony, plunges visi"Prehistoric
remains
horses and sabretors into a mysterious
have been uncovered"
toothed tigers."
universe populated
Many events based
by ancestral legends.
Florian Bouillé, guide
on the theme of pre"This cave is prihistory are on offer
marily known for
the story about a young Bohemian girl called here. And for sporty types, climbing routes have
Margot, who, accused of witchcraft, is said to been built into the cliffs. Lastly, if you are seehave lived and disappeared inside the cave," king a breath of fresh air, a footpath will take
says Florian Bouillé, one of the site’s two guides. you to the charming little village of Saulges…
Because of its horizontal inclination over about
www.grottes-de-saulges.com
320m, Grotte à Margot also has many graffiti
Located in the village of Montsoreau, the hillside of Le Saut aux Loups has been a hive of
activity since the 15th century. At that time, a
complex of cave dwellings formed the gateway
to immense galleries from which tuffeau, the
local sandy chalk stone, was extracted. Since
the start of the 20th century, these have been
used to grow button mushrooms. The mushroom beds of Le Saut aux Loups with adjacent restaurant are now a tourist attraction.
www.troglo-sautauxloups.com
In the caves of La
Gauletterie
In Ruillé-sur-Loir, on the trail of Loir Valley
vineyards, Francine and Raynald Lelais offer
a guided tour of Domaine des Gauletteries wines. The tasting session of Jasnières
and Coteaux du Loir, held in majestic cellars
carved into the tuffeau, reveals fine, full-bodied wines.
23
Towns and water
The Venice of the West
La Ferté-Bernard in Perche Sarthois is crisscrossed by canals. Nicknamed the Venice of the
West, it is best admired from the water. Hire an
electric boat from the landing stage located in
the town centre.
Fontenay-le-Comte
Come to Fontenay-le-Comte to experience the
river Vendée like never before, aboard a canoe
or kayak. Canoe and kayak hire facilities are
easy to find upstream of the Base de Pilorge or
downstream of the village itself. It’s a great idea
for adventure seekers, whether on your own or
with a guide.
La Flèche
Le Mans
Boasting a new pontoon, the harbour of Le Mans
is the starting point for boat trips on the river
Sarthe. It only takes a few minutes to get out
on the water.
Boat trips on the river Mayenne
Mayenne, frequented exclusively by recreational
craft, is renowned for its calm. In the summer,
three excursion boats regularly pass each other
on the river Mayenne. The "Vallis Guidonis"
from Laval, the "Duc des Chauvières" from Château-Gontier and the "Pays de Mayenne" from
Mayenne all offer day trips with commentary. It’s
a great way to discover and unlock the river’s
secrets.
Whether on the coast or inland, most towns in Pays de la Loire have a very special
relationship with water. The ocean, the Loire, but also the Sarthe, the Mayenne, the
Loir, the Sèvre Nantaise and the Erdre have all contributed to the history of water…
An island in the
heart of Nantes
This island alone symbolises the power of the
river. Hemmed in by branches of the Loire, Ile de
Nantes is both ideal for a stroll through the city’s
maritime heritage and a place of vibrant culture
and innovation of all kinds.
24
In La Flèche, at the foot of a converted mill
restaurant, an old fûtreau, a flat-bottomed barge
with sails, evokes the maritime past of this
village.
On one side the château, on the other Le Quai.
Two monuments, one old, one modern, face each
other on the banks of the Maine, a river that has
shaped Angers for centuries. A firework display
is held on the banks of the river every year and
thousands of people flock to the free music festival, Tempo Rives.
Saumur, the history of the Loire
Saint-Nazaire by the sea
Château de la Gascherie, at La Chapelle sur Erdre,near Nantes, offers outstanding views.
Towns and their fascinating waterways
The Maine, energising Angers
The last mooring point before the estuary flows
into the ocean, Saint-Nazaire oscillates between
the spray of the Atlantic and the spirited waters
of the Loire. The rugged industrial harbour has
dozens of beaches – ideal for sunbathing – at
the foot of the town.
The royal river divides the town in two, divides
and conquers you could say, imposing its presence on Saumur, which suits the town just fine.
Along with wine, the river Loire is the main tourist attraction in the region. Without it, there
would be no natural lake on the island of Millocheau, or river trips all the way to Montsoreau
on board the "Saumur Loire".
Great holiday ideas from enpaysdelaloire.com
THE LOIRE BY BICYCLE – THE ANGERS LOOP
A TRIP TO FRANCE’S "GREEN VENICE"
Come and discover mellow Angers along the banks of the
Loire and by bicycle! This is the best way to get the most
out of the beautiful landscapes and take a leisurely wander
through the town.
Welcome to Angers! You will be charmed by the views of the
Loire and Maine rivers, by the historic and tourist attractions
(château and museums) and the bicycle trail along the Loire.
Enjoy a "Nature & Heritage" weekend in the lush green
Marais Poitevin with its criss-crossing canals and waterways,
unique history and beautiful architecture.
From €64 per person 2 days/1 night
Price includes: double room, breakfast, 2 x 24-hour city passes
providing access to tourist attractions, bike hire, tour guides and
travel pack.
Valid from 1 May to 30 October 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 41 23 50 00
2 days/1 night
Price includes: B&B accommodation, breakfast, dinner, a day’s
bike hire, entry to an Abbey of your choice, a 1-hour boat trip
with commentary and a hiking/cycling guide.
Bookings: +33 (0)2 51 54 09 88
25
Loire-nature
Photo Anne-Marie d’Argentré
Cycle rides in the Pays de la Loire
In Solesmes, the majestic Benedictine abbey of Saint Peter is best admired from the river. The landing stage is right at the foot of the building.
With the Sarthe running through it…
Cast off and slow down. Travelling at 10kph on the rivers Sarthe and Mayenne allows you
to fully appreciate the magnificent scenery. Text: Anne-Marie d’Argentré
"Careful… reduce your speed, draw up along- path, a young heron makes a graceful landing.
side the pontoon. Move the tiller to the left and Suddenly, a buzzard takes flight above a field of
turn off the engine. Now you can moor up." corn. The slow pace of river navigation – speed
Patrick concentrates hard and listens religiously is restricted to 10kph – means that you experience everything differently.
to the instructions.
Along with three couples of friends, on this "What I love is the calm, the relaxation. I also
sunny afternoon, he is boarding a 10-berth love meeting other boats and chatting with the
cruiser for a full weekend’s sailing. As there are lock keepers," says Jacques. "Not forgetting the
a number of locks to pass through, there is no lunchtime picnic and dinner in a restaurant in
question of taking to the water without first the evening!" adds his wife Liliane mischievously. Taking to the river
mastering the elemenmeans that you can
tary manoeuvres. "None
"I love chatting with the also
enjoy tourist attractions
of our boats require a
on foot or by bicycle. The
licence, but customers
lock keepers"
many pontoons along the
need to know the basics
Jacques, recreational sailor
river Sarthe provide landing
before setting sail",
stages from which you can
explains Emmanuelle of
Anjou Navigation. With 133km of waterways, visit the churches, châteaux and museums along
the Sarthe offers a remarkable territory for the river. In Solesmes, you can moor at the lanexploration. Along the river, recreational sailors ding stage at the foot of the Benedictine abbey.
journey into another dimension. The clamour of There’s no need to hurry when visiting the vilthe towns fades, nature reveals itself and the lage clustered around the abbey church. Monks
senses become keener. On the deck, with the have lived here for 1,000 years. Today, just like
wind in your hair, all you need to do is open tomorrow, when the recreational sailors have
your eyes and ears. A pike with grey-speckled left to continue their journey, their Gregorian
belly glides through the clear water. On the tow- chants will continue to rise above the river.
26
enpaysdelaloire.com
© Agence SZE
CYCLING BREAKS IN
MAYENNE
Take a bike ride along the safe towpath and discover the wonders of a
nature park, following the meandering
river dotted with villages, châteaux,
locks, etc. The route is also ideal for
children.
sharing)
4 days/3 nights
Price includes: 3-star hotel accommodation, half-board, luggage transfer, road
book, transfer and technical assistance.
Valid from April to September 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)4 75 25 78 78
27
Towns and cycling
Towns by bicycle
Cycling gathers pace in Angers
Photo Christophe Turgis
Angers has just given its bike-friendly policy a new boost.
The city wants to extend and improve its network of cycle
routes and offer new services such as bike hire. The nearby
Loire à Vélo cycle trail is a great natural advantage for the
city’s cycling strategy, firmly placing Angers on the map
as an ideal stopover on the long cycle route to the sea.
Q
Sylvie Denis, a journalist for France 3, made some surprising discoveries as she cycled the Loire...
The Loire by bicycle... film crew in tow
Laval in ten stops
Mayenne is a great place for cycling – and the central towpath that crosses the department from north
to south is the perfect starting point. Laval is firmly
on board with this trend and has decided to offer a
hundred self-service bicycles at ten terminals spread
throughout the town. A little further afield, cyclists
can explore the "Chemins du Pays de Laval" trails.
Biking in Nantes
In Le Mans, cycling is king
For two months, France 3 journalist Sylvie Denis cycled along the "Loire à Vélo" trail for
a 60-episode web series. Here’s how she got on. Text: Sébastien Rochard
The Loire à Vélo cycling trail attracts a truly either side of the river. When you travel by bike
eclectic mix of people each summer, ranging you can take your time to meet the locals and
from couples to families, from athletes to nature get a sense of the region’s cultural identity."
lovers, from old hands to spritely young things… Sylvie Denis was "bowled over" by this experience of cycling along the Loire and will take
and sometimes even journalists.
Sylvie Denis, presenter of the documentary Vues away countless memorable moments, fascinasur Loire on TV channel France 3, took to the ting stories and moving encounters. "It might
saddle over the summer to discover the varied sound like a ‘picture postcard’ memory, but
landscapes along the Loire and meet those who seeing Le Thoureil with its dazzling tuffeau
live there. Her journey was made into a web stone on a gorgeous summer’s day, paddling
in the water and
series with more than
a pike
60 episodes that were
"A kaleidoscope of landscapes, savouring
perch in beurre
broadcast from June to
blanc – that was a
September 2013 on the
changing plays of light…"
truly wonderful exVues sur Loire website.
Sylvie Denis, journalist
perience." As was
It was an unforgettable
her encounter furexperience for the journalist, who explains: "The filming was intense, ther upstream in La Possonnière with fisherman
and it was physically impossible to do the whole Alex Fagat, who "is passionate about his river.
trail by bike, but it was still an amazing expe- Every time you meet him you learn something
rience. This fantastic idea of creating a series new." For Sylvie Denis, cycling along the Loire is
of cycle tracks all along the Loire fosters a real above all about meeting local residents and getsense of community. And from the Bec d’Allier ting a feel for their way of life. And reflecting on
to the estuary, the river offers up a kaleidoscope the important things: "With the Loire, you need
of landscapes, with changing plays of light from to take the time to let time pass you by," she
www.cycling-loire.com
one day to the next and contrasting scenery on concludes.
28
At the last count there were an impressive 183km
of cycle routes in Le Mans and the surrounding
metropolitan area. The local transport company offers long-term bike hire for a month, three months
or even a year. Tourists can take advantage of this
bicycle-friendly strategy too – the city also offers the
possibility of hiring a bike for a day.
Vues sur Loire à Vélo is a documentary web series co-produced by France Télévisions and TGA
Production.www.pays-de-la-loire.france3.fr/vuessurloireavelo (in French).
Q
Cycling is becoming increasingly popular in Nantes,
which offers secure bike parks, clean cycle paths,
bike hire and a self-service bicycle scheme. In 2014,
Europe’s former Green Capital, which prides itself on
having one of France’s best cycle networks, is opening two major new routes that cross the city from
north to south and east to west.
Pedal power in La Roche-sur-Yon
The town of La Roche-sur-Yon has
adopted an innovative new initiative by proposing a grant to residents who buy an electric bicycle.
Under the scheme, the town promises to cover 20% of the purchase
price of an e-bike in a bid to encourage cycling in the city.
29
Photo Mayenne Tourisme
By bicycle
The Mayenne towpath is very popular with cyclists.
Vincent and Sylviane Bruneau welcome cyclists for a peaceful stay in tranquil surroundings by the river Loir.
Laval and its towpath
From the Loir to the Loire on the greenway
The Mayenne towpath holds no secrets for Marie- tious walking up to 25km over a full day. The
Thérèse and Bernard, Martine, Marcelle and Ray- hiking trails, which follow the waterway that
mond, all seasoned members of the Laval Hiking once teemed with flat-bottomed barges, contain
Club. The hardy hikers simply love exploring this regular explanatory sign boards with fascinating
nuggets of information that reveal Mayenne’s
picturesque trail.
Once or twice a month they head along the river secrets.
before venturing off the beaten track onto other Raymond, 82, knows the towpath like the back of
waymarked routes and greenways, through fo- his hand. In the group he’s known as the "route
marker". Together with his brother Gilbert, he trarests and undergrowth.
They are lucky to live in Laval, which gives them vels the length and breadth of the river. "The towpath is the ideal
direct access to 105km
starting point,"
of pure hiking pleasure,
"The towpath is the
he explains. "It
from Mayenne to the
provides a central
edge of the Maine-etideal starting point"
axis from which
Loire department. "We
Raymond, hiker
we explore new
are really fortunate to
trails that we then
be able to start out from
the château in Laval, head for the river bank and mark out. The Mayenne department currently has
decide whether to turn north or south," explains around 3,500km of waymarked trails. Each year,
Marcelle, 67, secretary of the hiking club. "Laval we add around another 100km of new routes."
is a great starting point for a trail set in beauti- In Laval and throughout the Mayenne departful natural surroundings that is mainly aimed at ment, hikers and cyclists can enjoy discovering
this vast network of natural trails. Around 2,000
hikers but also at horse riders and cyclists."
The towpath forms the backbone of the network regularly don their walking gear to explore the
and can attract some 50 hikers on Sunday mor- paths and trails stemming from Mayenne’s wonContact : 02 43 53 12 91
nings for an 8-10km trek, with the more ambi- derful towpath.
Martine and Jean-Marie hop off their bikes, any aches and pains after cycling all those miles.
broad grins on their rosy-cheeked faces. This "Our stay here has been really refreshing and
lucky 50-something couple have been given energising. The greenway is ideal for cycling
a three-day holiday in the Loir Valley by their and the spa is just wonderful for relaxing. The
children. And there’s no way this energetic pair pool with its vaulted stone ceiling is reminiscent
are going to spend their time lounging in a deck- of Roman baths!" enthuses Jean-Marie. The
chair; instead, they’ve chosen to explore the Domaine de la Courbe is set in a former 19thregion via the greenway from Le Lude to Baugé. century paper factory. It is a perfect stopover
"Yesterday we went to Luché-Pringé to visit the for cyclists and has been awarded the "Accueil
church, then we continued until we reached La Vélo" label. "We have adult and children’s bikes
available for our guests to
Flèche, cycling round
and we offer a covethe beautiful lake of La
"We offer ‘topo-guides’ use
red bike shelter, equipment
Monnerie. It was a lovely
ride. This morning, we
with information about for cleaning and repairing
bikes, and ‘topo-guides’
took our bikes and set
the different routes"
with information about the
off to explore Le Lude,
different routes", explains
with its historical district
Vincent Bruneau, hotel owner
owner Vincent Bruneau.
and château." After their
decidedly sporty exploits, Martine and Jean-Ma- With his wife, he deals with a wide variety of
requests from guests. "We’re happy to fetch cyrie have decided to pamper themselves a little.
They’ve come to the Domaine de la Courbe, a clists from Le Mans station or take their luggage
"Relais du Silence" hotel on the banks of the to their next stop when they set off cycling." The
Loir near Le Lude. They’re just a few metres from couple, whose guests include many foreign visithe spa in the hotel grounds. A session in the tors, have just one regret: "We can’t wait until
steam room and jacuzzi and a few lengths in the the Sarthe is linked with the ‘Loire à Vélo’ trail,
heated indoor pool are the perfect therapy for from Baugé to Saumur."
www.tourisme-en-sarthe.com
The 105km Mayenne towpath crosses the department from north to south. This waymarked
trail runs right along the river, starting from the departmental capital Laval. Text: Cédric Soulié
30
enpaysdelaloire.com
NATURE ON YOUR
DOORSTEP IN LAVAL
Recharge your batteries with the essential elements of air and water! Sleep in
natural surroundings in a tree house
on the edge of Laval, glide along the
Mayenne on board a typical barge and
explore the superb Mayenne valley.
Price includes: 1 night in the "Pivert" tree
house, breakfast, access to the canopy
tour, 1 day on a boat.
Valid from May to October 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 43 49 45 26
The Loir Valley, at the southern tip of the Sarthe department, offers gently undulating
cycle routes.Text: Anne-Marie d’Argentré
enpaysdelaloire.com
DISCOVER LE MANS
Spend a weekend exploring the Plantagenet City. Admire the spectacular
Nuit des Chimères light show in
summer.
From €49 per person (based on 2 sharing) 2 days/1 night
Price includes: 1 night in a B&B in the
Plantagenet City of Le Mans or in a
3-star hotel; breakfast, a chance to
visit the city and the Carré Plantagenêt
museum; a public transport coupon
valid for 24 hours.
Valid throughout 2014 (except during
sporting or cultural events)
Bookings: +33 (0)2 43 28 17 22
31
Jacques Auxiette answers
our questions
President of the Pays de la Loire Region
Photo Joel Damase
Why has the Pays de la Loire Region placed
such importance on biodiversity in its
policies?
Velodyssey crosses the Pays de la Loire region from north to south, sticking closely to the beautiful coastline.
Cycling along the coast, the wind in your hair…
With Velodyssey on one side and Vélocéan on the other, the region’s cyclists are spoilt
for choice. Two great routes to enjoy with the wind in your hair and the mighty ocean
as a backdrop.
1409km – that’s the distance from south-west steel snake that seems to have emerged from
England to the Basque coast. And all those kilo- the ocean depths. South of the Loire, Velodysmetres can be covered by bike! From Ilfracombe sey takes cyclists through a maritime landscape
to Hendaye, this great cycle route – the longest of sandy creeks, jagged shores and delightful
in France – cuts right across the Pays de la Loire seaside towns. After Pornic, the vast marshland
region. In the north it follows the path that runs known as the Marais Breton links Loire-Atlanalongside the Nantes-Brest canal. Cyclists then tique and Vendée, where the route crosses the
pedal their way past locks, marshes, forests and Passage du Gois. Cycling along this legendary
charming little port towns before reaching the causeway (always making sure to check the
uncanalised, broad stretch of the Erdre, then the tide times!) is invariably a memorable experience.
Further
city of Nantes. Here the
south still, from
Velodyssey trail joins the
South of the Loire, Velodyssey the Pays de Monts
Loire à Vélo cycle route
until it comes to the Attakes cyclists through a mari- national forest to
the ragged cliffs
lantic. The many backwatime landscape
of the Corniche
ters and wetlands in the
Vendéenne, Velobeautiful Loire estuary
are simply waiting to be explored, and cyclists dyssey takes cyclists to the heart of the Fiefs
will also be fascinated by the artworks in the Vendéens wine region. The route then joins the
open-air "Estuaire" exhibition. Some works are waymarked trails through the Marais Poitevin
displayed permanently and others come and go before continuing south towards Les Sables
from season to season, but each is as original as d’Olonne and La Rochelle. Adventurous cyclists
the next – from a bendy boat hanging over the can carry on towards Bordeaux, the Landes and
edge of a lock to a floating house half hidden the Basque coast to complete an unforgettable
under the regal waters of the Loire, or a mighty journey.
www.velodyssey.com
30
Vélocéan, the other
great coastal route
Wending its way along the coast between
the Atlantic and the salt marshes, with bright
blue sea on one side and green countryside
on the other, the 50km Vélocéan cycle route
from Piriac-sur-Mer to Les Moutiers-en-Retz
takes in beaches, rocky coastlines and charming coastal towns.
www.ohlaloireatlantique.com
In the Pays de la Loire, we are extremely lucky
in that we are surrounded by astonishing biodiversity. It’s a real asset, and we are responsible
for it – it’s fragile and needs to be protected and
promoted. It’s up to us to raise awareness of our
biodiversity so that not only local residents but
people from all over France and the rest of the
world want to come and discover it. We need to
send out a clear message to people to come and
discover the wonderful natural environment and
landscapes in the Pays de la Loire.
What major measures has the Region implemented to protect biodiversity?
Our region’s rich biodiversity is a result of its
wide-ranging habitats: a dense network of waterways around one of Europe’s most beautiful
rivers, a high proportion of wetlands, a significant area of hedgerows and woodland, and a
long coastline. So we have to be involved in all
these different areas. One major initiative was
the creation of the Beautour Regional Centre
for Discovery, Culture and Research on the Environment and Biodiversity in La Roche-sur-Yon,
where specific activities for raising environmental awareness, promoting research on biodiversity, preserving and sharing heritage and popularising science are being carried out. The centre is
the only one of its kind in the Pays de la Loire and
it’s well worth a visit.
The region also has four regional natural parks
and 18 officially designated regional nature
reserves (nearly 2,500 hectares) – the second
highest number in France. These nature reserves
are home to two thirds of the endangered animal species in the Pays de la Loire and a significant proportion of the region’s flora. Behind
each of these designated nature sites, committed teams – local authorities, associations and
companies; farmers, scientists and citizens – are
working to preserve the region’s biodiversity. I
would encourage you to visit these remarkable
places and meet the people behind them – in
doing so you will discover both the riches of our
ecosystem and the wonderful people that keep
it alive. I would personally like to thank them for
all their efforts.
"In the Pays de la Loire, we are extremely lucky in that we are surrounded by astonishing biodiversity."
How does the region fund the measures it is
taking to encourage biodiversity?
The Region funds these measures to encourage
biodiversity through its budget and by setting
up partnerships. It has also received additional
funding as a result of unfortunate circumstances
such as the pollution caused by the sinking of
the Erika tanker. In that particular case, recognition of the extensive environmental damage
caused by the disaster led to a compensation
payout of €8.5 million by RINA to the Pays de la
Loire Region, some of which was used to build
the Beautour Centre.
What are the next stages in this policy to
encourage biodiversity?
In spring 2014, we will step up our policy to
encourage biodiversity by taking a number of
new proactive measures, and we will work on
improving networking between the different
sites related to biodiversity and landscapes. The
creation of a fifth regional natural park around
the Loire estuary and Grand-Lieu Lake will be a
vital step forward and will provide a real boost
for our biodiversity efforts. This regional natural
park will most likely be a little different from the
others, which are much enjoyed by walkers and
hikers and are mainly in inhabited rural areas.
The economic development projects associated
with these parks often focus on encouraging traditional craftsmanship and supporting extensive
farming. In the Loire estuary, projects of that type
will still be carried out, but we will also have to
maintain and support industrial activities that
are vital for the protection and preservation of
the outstanding biodiversity and landscapes
of this fragile environment, so that people will
continue to come from far and wide to appreciate the riches of these beautiful surroundings.
33
Photo Jacques Auvinet
Photo D. OSSO ( LACTOPOLE)
Family holidays
Beautour offers a fascinating approach to biodiversity.
The Lactopôle sheds new light on the evolution of the dairy industry.
Focus on biodiversity in Beautour
The Lactopôle, a unique museum
"What’s the purpose of a hedge? And more to insect enclosure and experimental lakes. And in
the point, what can you find there?" Wellies on the midst of this 8.5-hectare protected natural
and a piece of wood in hand, Anne-Lise, one of area stands a thatched building alongside an
the guides at the Beautour centre, sets the scene imposing bourgeois residence that was once
for a themed tour about hedgerows. "Is it used the home of Vendée-born Georges Durand.
to separate fields?" asks Jean, a little unsure. Durand was an ornithologist, botanist, entomo"Yes! Ever since the Middle Ages." At Beautour, logist, pharmacist, film maker, and above all a
young and old alike learn how to observe the devoted naturalist who left behind a collection
intricacies of the living world in the same way as of some 5,000 birds, 15,000 insects and several
naturalist Georges Durand, the instigator of this herbariums. This rich legacy is the basis of the
centre’s collections and has
biodiversity centre. "An
been complemented with
interactive, educational
exploring the
trip like this teaches
"See your environment in exhibitions
links between agriculture
children how to view naand biodiversity. "Beautour
ture in a more informed
a whole new light"
is an observatory, exhibition
way," smiles Dominique,
Anne-Lise, guide at Beautour
centre and research hub. It
who is visiting the centre
provides a unique snapshot
with her two grandchildren. "And I’m learning a lot myself too!" of the region’s biodiversity," explains director
Anne-Lise, who trained in nature management Alain Bulteau.
and conservation, agrees: "Coming to Beautour Beautour is also a great nature discovery centre
encourages you to see your everyday environ- for families, complete with interactive displays,
activity booklets and fun workshops. What’s
ment in a whole new light."
The Beautour centre, which opened in July more, every Wednesday the centre is free. So
2013, is a breath of fresh air in a natural set- why not go wild and find out a bit more about
ting. It features a willow nest, a mysterious the wonderful biodiversity around you?
The Lactopôle, based on the outskirts of Laval and other by-products. A large area is set aside
on the river Mayenne, tells the fascinating story to explain about the different cheese producof the transformation of the dairy industry. tion techniques. Dioramas are used to explain
This museum, founded by André Besnier, offers a typical stage in the production of each cheese:
visitors a captivating, scientific and entertaining transferring the curds to moulds for camembert,
two-hour guided tour of its striking, strangely pressing for emmental, etc. Several videos taken
beautiful illuminated displays. "The Lacto- from early 20th-century film archives add a
pôle’s rich collections are a window onto the historical, documentary dimension. The second
lives of men and women dedicated to their art floor looks at how packaging has changed over
of cheese making. The permanent collections, the years and features an impressive collection
of camembert labels – a
spread over two floors
haven for tyrosemiophiles,
with some 5,000m² of
"The collections are
or cheese label collectors.
exhibition space, include
spread over two floors
Finally, visitors can stroll
an impressive selection
down "advertising avenue,
of tools and machines
with some 5,000m of
a huge corridor showing
from all over the world,"
exhibition space"
how advertising for dairy
explains museum manaproducts has changed over
ger Raphaël Joubert at
R. Joubert, Manager
time. It particularly reflects
the beginning of the tour,
which features a reconstructed dairy as it would how traditional advertising methods have given
way to web-based promotional techniques,"
have been in the 1950s.
On the first floor, visitors can learn about both adds Raphaël Joubert.
modern and traditional production techniques, Finally, a visit to the Lactopôle wouldn’t be comfrom cow to cheese. This space also presents plete without a cheese tasting (book in advance)
the various products that can be obtained from and a chance to add your comments to the visiwww.lactopole.com
milk, including cream, butter, yoghurt, cheese tors’ book.
34
Regional natural parks
The Pays de la Loire region has three regional
natural parks (PNRs). The largest, the Loire
Anjou Touraine PNR, stretches from Tours to
Angers across 141 towns and villages. The
second, the Brière PNR, is smaller, covering
18 towns and villages between Nantes and
Saint-Nazaire. The third PNR is the Normandie-Maine Park, which spans 164 towns and
villages in northern Mayenne and the Sarthe.
The Lactopôle in Laval provides a unique glimpse into the world of dairy production, a traditional craft that has now become a state-of-the-art industry. Text: Cédric Soulié
Photo Laurent Madelon
In La Roche-sur-Yon, the Beautour regional centre showcases the outstanding work of naturalist Georges Durand and reveals the extraordinary biodiversity of the Loire region. Text: Annie Rapin
Company visits
Over the past decade, the association "Visit
our companies in the Pays de la Loire" has
been working with industry stakeholders
to develop industrial tourism. In Maine-etLoire, as well as the local wine producers,
distilleries and sparkling wine houses, some
companies welcome visitors by appointment,
including the Lion d’Angers national stud
farm. www.visiteznosentreprises.com
35
Family holidays
Photo Olivier Blin
The mining centre in Faymoreau
transports visitors into the fascinating world of the region’s
miners and explores the history
of coal, the "black gold" that fuelled the Industrial Revolution and
transformed society from the
mid-19th century onwards.
www.centre-minier-vendee.com
Louis-Jean and Barbara de Nicolaÿ live in the Château du Lude, one of the remaining châteaux in the Pays de la Loire that are
still lived in and open to visitors. Right, from top to bottom: the Châteaux of Craon, Terre-Neuve and Brissac.
The slag heap at Abbaretz
This former mining
site, a relic of a bygone
age of traditional
ironworks, now features
strange lunar landscapes. 200 steps lead to
the top of the slag heap,
which offers wonderful views of the rolling
countryside around
Châteaubriant.
www.abbaretz.fr
Text: Sébastien Rochard
The miners of
Faymoreau
36
Breathing new life into old châteaux
The beautiful châteaux of ages past are now home to a new generation of families who
are not short on ideas to make them financially viable. Text: Anne-Marie d’Argentré
Mine bleue
(Noyant-la-Gravoyère, 49)
Since it opened in 1991, Mine Bleue has
become one of Anjou’s major attractions in
industrial tourism. Located at the historic
slate mines in Gatelière, the tour includes
a funicular train ride 130 metres into the
depths of the mine that traces the route the
miners once took. The tour also features
a demonstration on cutting slate, photo
exhibitions and giant-sized games and play
equipment for the whole family to enjoy.
www.laminebleue.com
"Whichever way you look, it’s simply beautiful." us," confirm the Count and Countess in unison.
Countess Barbara de Nicolaÿ may have lived in The château’s current inhabitants have chosen
the château for more than 30 years but she is to open this listed historical monument to the
still in awe of the place. "Just look at the won- public for much of the year. "Le Lude is a living,
derful Italian Renaissance façade with its stone lived-in château – it’s not a museum. We don’t
medallions. There’s no other like it in the entire cordon off each room to keep people out." For
region. And the grounds overlooking the Loir are Louis-Jean de Nicolaÿ, who inherited the château from his father, preserving this heritage is
truly stunning."
You need this kind of passion to live in such a a wonderful opportunity but also a challenge.
sumptuous building all year round – because life And what does the future hold? In an age of
globalisation and electronic
in a château isn’t always
communication, is it still
easy. "Let me give you
"Le Lude is a living
possible to live in a Renaisan example – if I go to
the vegetable garden château, not a museum" sance château tucked away
in the Sarthe countryside?
and then realise I’ve
Louis-Jean de Nicolaÿ
Louis-Jean and Barbara
left something behind,
de Nicolaÿ, who have four
I need to walk for three
quarters of a mile there and back to go and children, have their feet firmly on the ground.
fetch it. And every time I want to go up to the They hope that their family can continue living
first floor I have to climb 36 stairs," explains in this splendid historical setting. The château
Count Louis-Jean de Nicolaÿ ruefully. No need has survived Norman invasions, the Hundred
for a gym – the comings and goings of everyday Years War, the French Revolution and two world
life at the château keep them in great shape. wars. And the modern-day lord and lady of the
And that’s no bad thing in a building that has manor are determined to make sure Le Lude is
no insulation or double glazing. "In summer it’s well placed to survive for a few hundred more
www.lelude.com
wonderful. But in winter the cold really gets to years yet.
Major attractions
Not far from the royal abbey of Fontevraud
and the Cadre Noir cavalry school in Saumur
are five major Pays de la Loire châteaux.
Located in Angers, Saumur, Brézé, Brissac and
Nantes, they are all are part of the "Major
Heritage Sites of the Loire Valley" network.
http://loire-chateaux.co.uk
37
Family holidays
Recommended for ages 7 to 77
Mans is accessible by tram. The Arche de la Nature offers a variety of activities including a farm
and a chance to learn about renewable energy.
www.archenature.fr
ture trails for all ages, all levels and at different
heights, and also a chance to try out orienteering
and tree climbing.
www.parcanjouaventure.fr
Go for a drive with Léon in Le Mans (72)
Malagué Lake (49)
In Chaumont-en-Anjou, just 20km from Angers,
Malagué Lake offers a wide variety of activities
for the whole family. The 5-hectare lake is set in
13 hectares of greenery and offers something for
everyone, from watersports (cable skiing, swimming, canoeing and kayaking, stand up paddle
surfing, etc.) to land-based activities such as
mountain biking and hiking, and relaxing at the
Guinguette café.
www.lacdemalague.fr
Magic and mystery in Nantes (44)
The Lieu Magique hosts a magic show every
Saturday and every day during school holidays,
and runs conjuring trick workshops – a genuine
street magic academy on the Ile de Nantes.
www.lelieumagique.com
The 7th continent in Talmont-St-Hilaire (85)
This aquarium transports visitors from the Seychelles to Indonesia, the Java Sea to the Caribbean, the Galapagos to Hawaii – not forgetting
France’s own shores. Submarine environments are
showcased in huge tanks bathed in natural light.
www.aquarium-vendee.com
The ultimate adventure experience at
Indian Forest (85)
In the Vendée town of Moutiers-les-Mauxfaits,
Indian Forest is the perfect place for would-be
adventurers. This 20-hectare park offers a wide
variety of different activities – children will have
a great time trying out the exhilarating challenges at Fort Débrouillard kids.
www.indian-forest-atlantique.com
Vendée en miniature (85)
It took twelve years to build this 1/10th scale
model of a typical rural Vendée village. Young and
old alike will be fascinated by the typical scenes
featuring shops, carts, a water mill and a cast of
over 600 characters, in Bretignolles-sur-Mer.
www.vendee-miniature.fr
The 24 Hours of Le Mans Museum, located at
the entrance of the famous racetrack, offers an
entertaining tour and activity book for children
aged 6 to 12. The museum’s new mascot, Léon,
introduces children to the history of motor racing.
www.lemusee24h.com
Sablésienne in Sablé-sur-Sarthe (72)
This delectable tour takes visitors behind the
scenes to discover the secrets behind the delicious local speciality: golden, crunchy sablé biscuits, both sweet and savoury. At the end of the
tour, the shop offers a wide range of sablés at
unbeatable prices.
www.sablesienne.com
Up close and personal with lemurs at La
Flèche (72)
Refuge de l’Arche in Château-Gontier (53)
The Puy du Fou attracts over 1.5 million visitors each year.
The Refuge de l’Arche is the most popular tourist attraction in Mayenne, with 100,000 visitors
each year. Every animal here has its own story.
The refuge was set up by Christian Huchedé for
injured or sick animals found in the local area,
which are treated and then released back into
their natural habitat. Only animals that have
become too dependent on humans are kept. The
refuge also houses exotic animals whose owners
can no longer keep them.
www.refuge-arche.org
Via Ferrata at Tepacap (72)
Enjoy an amazing exotic experience at La Flèche
Zoo, where ring-tailed lemurs roam around in
complete freedom among the visitors. A little
slice of Madagascar in the Sarthe!
www.zoo-la-fleche.com
There are no mountains in Le Mans, but this
unique site has reproduced the famous via ferrata climbing routes in the Alps. The trail includes
bridges, ramps and cables and offers visitors a
technical and entertaining introduction to mountain climbing. You can even stay the night in a
traditional trapper’s tent.
www.tepacap-lemans.fr
Explore the Arche de la Nature in Le Mans (72)
This huge 450-hectare site on the outskirts of Le
38
Textile Museum in Cholet (49)
For nearly 20 years, the Textile Museum has
provided a fascinating insight into the industrial
heritage of the Cholet area. Visitors can discover the different stages in textile production and
learn about the famous Cholet handkerchief.
www.museedutextile.com
Anjou Adventure Park in Ecouflant (49)
Just 10km north of Angers, Anjou Adventure
Park is set in beautiful woodland in Sablières
park, Ecouflant. Activities include treetop adven-
Photo le Puy du Fou
Planète sauvage in Port-Saint-Père (44)
A thousand animals from 150 different species
roam over 80 hectares in Port-Saint-Père. Star
attractions include the dolphins in Marine City
and the white rhinoceros from southern Africa.
www.planetesauvage.com
enpaysdelaloire.com
Welcome to Papéa Parc
Not far from Le Mans, Papea Parc is the
perfect place for relaxing and spending
quality time with family. This magical
amusement park offers countless activities for children and fun rides that will
transport them to a world of enchantment and fill their hearts with joy.
adults + 2 children under 12) 2 days/1
night. Price includes: 1 night at the Fleur
de Soleil B&B (family suite), dinners at the
B&B and entry to Papea Parc.
Valid from 19 April to 28 September 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 72 88 18 74
Training the next generation at the Puy du Fou
Since 1998, a Junior Academy has been honing the skills of young Vendéens for the
shows at the Puy du Fou, voted the world’s best theme park in 2012. Text: Annie Rapin
The arena for the Signe du Triomphe, one of has become a real breeding ground for talent.
the Puy du Fou’s star attractions, is empty. The "The best pupils will take over the reins from the
famous Cinéscénie is deserted. But in the aisles artists and technicians at the Puy du Fou," the
and stands, the show goes on, as dozens of child- young candidates are told. "But the main aim is
ren learn how to juggle, horse riders practise the to develop a committed, skilled group of youngsfiner points of equestrian art and young dancers ters," continues Elisabeth Bousseau. "The schoare taught the intricacies of flamenco. When ols are created to meet the requirements of the
the young volunteers at the Puy du Fou aren’t park. They’re also where we teach Puy du Fou
performing during the summer, they practise. values – a sense of responsibility, an appreciaEvery winter, this new generation of performers tion of beauty and a commitment to excellence."
With 1.6 million visitors in
rehearses the moves and
and a turnover that
stunts that will feature in
"The aim was to train up 2012
continues to grow (55 milthe next season’s shows.
lion euros), the Puy du Fou
This school, set up in
the next generation"
can afford to tailor its stra1998, is the only one
Elisabeth Bousseau, Director
tegy to meet its needs. Some
of its kind at a theme
days, up to 20,000 people
park. "Before the Junior
Academy, the whole thing was more informal," come to Vendée to experience a memorable jourexplains director Elisabeth Bousseau. "The pro- ney through the ages thanks to the astonishing
fessional performers passed on their expertise variety of activities and shows available at this
to the youngsters. But as the Puy du Fou conti- vast theme park. In this quest for excellence, the
nued to grow, we needed more and more skilled Junior Academy is helping keep the dream alive
people each year. The aim was to train up the at the Puy du Fou. And it proves that anything is
next generation." In 2013, more than 500 child- possible – even becoming a professional Roman
ren and young people from 6 to 25 joined one chariot driver!
www.puydufou.com
of the 24 schools at the Junior Academy, which
The Grand Park opens on 11 April. The
Cinéscénie show begins on 20 June.
enpaysdelaloire.com
ADVENTURE AT THE PUY DU FOU
The Puy du Fou offers a stunning
selection of amazing shows, adventures for the whole family and four
new attractions for 2014 with its new
"Renaissance" world in the Grand
Parc.
From €68 per person (based on 2 sharing a double room). 2 days/1 night
Price includes: 1 night with breakfast
(accommodation at the park or nearby),
entry to the Grand Parc for 2 days,
night-time show the Organs of Fire
(depending on time of year).
Valid Sunday through Thursday for the
entire season and weekends in April,
May and the two last weekends of September, depending on the 2014 calendar
(valid in yellow and green periods).
Bookings: +33 (0)2 51 62 76 82
39
Wines and vineyards
Vast and varied vineyards
Photo Dominique_Drouet
The Pays de la Loire has been richly blessed by the gods – particularly Bacchus, the god of wine.
But this fruitful land has caught the eye of many a wine producer since then, and it now has
around thirty appellations, some of which are widely regarded as among the best in the world.
This traditional farmhouse is the ideal starting point to explore the Val de Loire’s vineyards, accompanied by Christian Lacour.
The Maison Joulin – in harmony with nature
Fifteen years ago, Christian Lacour moved to the hilltops of Chênehutte, where he now offers
bed and breakfast accommodation and tours of the Val de Loire’s vineyards. Text: Sébastien Rochard
Christian spent many a long hour in his car, ther string to his bow: wine tourism, which has
one eye on the road and the other on his maps, helped appease some childhood frustrations.
seeking out the perfect spot. "I wanted space, "I’m the grandson of a winegrower, but unfora secluded, quiet plot in the Loire Valley. It was tunately my grandfather refused to sell me his
a potentially life-changing plan," he tells us. In vineyards," he explains. So Christian has deve1998, Christian was still working as a self-em- loped his own expertise – he’s a true enthusiast,
ployed haulier near Loudun, where his wife was not an elitist, and advocates exclusively organic
methods. He has found "winegrowers who were
a teacher. But they wanted a change.
In the hills of Chênehutte, the couple discove- happy to welcome me with clients and take the
red an abandoned 17th-century farmhouse, a time to talk about their work." Christian began
offering
wine-themed
typical Anjou longère, or
breaks in 2008, for a halflonghouse, at the end of
"I did 80% of the renova- day, a day or a weekend,
an overgrown path. The
"but without taking things
Maison Joulin would
tion work myself"
too seriously. I keep the
become their new life.
Christian Lacour, Maison Joulin
numbers down to 4 or 5, I
With his knowledge of
take everyone with me in
the construction business and a 20-year-long passion for the environ- my four-wheel drive, and we eat together with
ment, Christian determinedly set to work reno- the winegrowers, from the Corniche Angevine to
vating this haven of tranquillity. Lime, hemp, Chinon." At the Maison Joulin, Christian offers
natural wood treatment and insulation – the meals using local products where possible, pertasks were numerous. "I did 80% of the renova- fectly complemented by a Chenin or Cabernet
tion work myself." He created two guest house Franc, the local wine varieties. Christian’s life
has certainly changed – in his own way, he has
rooms, followed by a third under a safari tent.
Christine found a job in Saumur, while Christian become an ambassador for the local region.
www.lamaisonjoulin.com
looked after the house. And he soon added ano-
40
enpaysdelaloire.com
WINE TASTING AND FINE
DINING IN SAUMUR
Enjoy a unique wine tasting experience
as a couple or with friends in the Saumur
vineyards.
Savour a gourmet dinner with wine pairings
and relax in the sumptuous Anne d’Anjou Hotel, part of the Châteaux & Hôtels Collection.
2 days/1 night.
Price includes: 1 night in a 4-star hotel in a
Classic room, breakfast, dinner, entry for 1 to the
matinées œnologiques wine tour, entry to the
Château de Brézé.
Free gifts from "Anjou réservations": recipe book,
guide and vineyard map
Valid from 1 February to 30 December 2014
Bookings: +33 (0)2 41 23 51 23
41
Wines and vineyards
In Saumur, prestigious wineries, mainly sparkling wine producers,
have used the networks of old tuffeau stone quarries under the
town to create extraordinary wine cellars.
From the oldest, Ackerman, to the deepest bottling room in Europe,
the Cave de Saumur, not forgetting the wine houses of Bouvet-Ladubay, Langlois-Château, Gratien Meyer, Louis de Grenelle and Veuve
Amiot, the Saumur area is amply served in sparkling wine – and also
has a host of tourist attractions.
Two "Maisons des Vins"
in Anjou
Several winemakers and merchants in the Loire Valley have decided
to get together to form a trade association for Loire wines, InterLoire, to support and develop the area’s 51 appellations. One of the
achievements of this association is the creation of four Maisons
des Vins: one in Nantes, one in Tours and two in Maine-et-Loire, in
Angers and Saumur. Their aim is to offer tastings and sale of wine
produced by winemakers affiliated to InterLoire, and to make every
effort to promote France’s third-largest wine region.
www.vinsvaldeloire.fr
Saumur wine caves
Vines, wines and hiking
It’s one of the major wine tourism events in the Loire Valley: every
year for the past decade, visitors have been taking part in fun and
easy organised walks over a weekend – from Nantes in the west,
via Anjou and Touraine to the Loir in the east – as winemakers and
merchants guide them through the region’s different appellations.
www.vignesvinsrandos.fr
There’s more to life than wine...
There are three distilleries in Maine-et-Loire – Giffard, Combier and
Cointreau – all of them open to visitors.
There are also increasing numbers of breweries in the region
(probably around 20), including the Brasserie Melusine in the
Vendée, La Piautre in Angers and Charlotte in Nantes.
Mayenne is the leading producer of Pommeau de Maine. Nearly
all cider producers can be found in Mayenne and Sarthe, with the
notable exception of Breton maker Kerisac (Guenrouet).
Kamok, Vendée’s famous coffee liqueur has been around since 1860.
It was originally produced for Dutch sailors who came to drain the
Vendée and Poitou marshes.
Vineyards and discoveries
The quality seal Vignobles & Découvertes, or vineyards and
discoveries, is awarded for a three-year period by the agriculture
and tourism ministries to tourist and wine destinations that offer a
comprehensive range of wine tourism services (restaurants, tours,
accommodation, caves, museums, etc.). 36 destinations in France
have been given this label, including five in the Pays de la Loire
region: the Vallée du Loir, Saumur Val de Loire, Angers Loire Valley,
the Vallée du Layon and Muscadet Loire Océan.
www.atout-france.fr
42
Clos Cristal,
Hospices de Saumur
In the early 20th century, wealthy textile merchant Antoine Cristal
devoted himself to cultivating vines in Parnay and Champigny.
He was firmly opposed to chaptalisation and the use of additives; he
experimented with Cabernet Franc and set up the Clos Cristal, which
he bequeathed to Saumur hospital.
www.clos-cristal.com
The tasting days organised by winemakers Bruno and Marie-Françoise Cormerais have proved to be a huge success.
Their Muscadet is a hit with senators…
Their 2009 Vieilles Vignes has been selected for the private cave of the French Senate – a little anecdote that the Cormerais, vintners in Sainte-Lumine de Clisson, like to tell their visitors. Text: Antoine Gazeau
Our host uncorks a Clisson 2009, the first vintage her team, the Senator preselected the wine at a
of an appellation recognised by regulatory body blind tasting before presenting it at the sumpINAO "after 20 years of work," he explains. He tuous Palais du Luxembourg, where the winning
serves another glass. A classic Muscadet. "You’ll vintage was chosen for Senate banquets. The
notice the difference!" Well, Bruno Cormerais wine’s secrets are just waiting to be revealed.
can, of course. "The Clisson is more structured; The Cormerais produce it at home, every day
it can be kept for up to 20 years." This 60-some- except Sunday. Bruno uncorks another bottle,
thing producer has been making wine for 40 this time a 2000 vintage. The wine has its own
years. Just like his ancestors: "My grandparents story to tell. Bruno used to be technical manager
on my mother’s side made wine in Saint-Fiacre, for the Muscadet producers’ union and learned
on my father’s side in Maisdon, then here…" on the job. Marie-Françoise then started working with him – she’s also
"Here" is in Sainte-Lumine de Clisson, on a
"The Clisson can be kept passionate about what she
does, focusing on wine pai30-hectare estate on the
for up to 20 years"
rings. Every autumn, Bruno
banks of the Maine. But
bottles at least 4 new wines,
times have changed: "I
Bruno Cormerais, wine grower
and Marie-Françoise creates
wouldn’t dare make the
same wines today as I did 30 years ago. They 4 recipes – delectable mouthfuls that perfectly
were more acidic. We harvested the grapes too match each vintage. They add the winning touch
green." In the mid-1980s, his wines became to the estate’s tasting days, attended by more
much rounder. Yes, times have certainly chan- than 500 enthusiasts, "a quarter of whom are
ged. The 2009 Vieilles Vignes vintage from the new customers," says Marie-Françoise. They
Cormerais estate even tempted the palate of leave with a crate of wine, and sometimes a
socialist Senator Michèle Meunier in 2012 – a Saint-Lumine, the cheese made at the next-door
sun-drenched wine with citrus notes and less of farm that’s ripened in… Cormerais Muscadet.
www.domaine-bruno-cormerais.com
an iodine flavour than previous vintages. With
enpaysdelaloire.com
2 WINE-LOVERS’ HOLIDAY
PACKAGES TO EXPLORE
THE NANTES WINE REGION
Discover all the secrets of Nantes’
vineyards with these two packages.
From €149 per person for the B&B
package and €195 for the Châteaux &
Mansions package (based on 2 sharing).
2 days/1 night
Price includes: 1 night, breakfast,
dinner, 1 trip or activity (guided tour of
La Garenne Lemot, trip to the Château
de Goulaine, riverboat trip, wine tasting,
hiking or cycling map), Muscadet
tasting.
Valid up to 1 year from date of purchase.
Bookings: +33 (0)2 40 54 24 22
43
Wines and vineyards
Photo Olivier Blin
Places to explore and visit
From their home in the Sarthe, Eric and Christine Nicolas produce wines based on the principles of biodynamic agriculture.
Bellivière – an ode to Jasnières
Eric Nicolas is one of the few winemakers to make Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir using
biodynamics. His wines are appreciated by the finest restaurants. Text: Anne-Marie d’Argentré
Between Chahaignes and Saint-Pierre-du-Lo- The iron-bound wooden casks lined up against
rouër, the gently winding roads make you want the side are full of promise. We slip between
to slow down and drink in the beautiful scenery, two rows of barrels to find out more. An entithe peace and tranquillity of the Loir Valley. cing scent tingles the nostrils, a blend of earth,
Before arriving at the Domaine de Bellivière, chalk and wood, heightened by the dampness of
the eye is drawn to an imposing white stone the cave. At the Domaine de Bellivière, the first
edifice that stands out against the dark green sense to be awakened by the fruit of the vine is
slopes. The magnificent Renaissance façade of the sense of smell. Then come sight and taste,
the Château de Bénéhard features an original as the wines are opened and sampled. "I went
three-sided tower. The château cellar contains a organic in 2005 then, in 2008, I converted the
entire vineyard to biodynahuge 15th-century wooThe grapes are harvesden wine press – a good
"I started making wine mics.
ted by hand and the wines
introduction to this white
wine region that probecause I’m passionate are vinified and aged in
barrels for 12 to 18 months."
duces Jasnières, a vintage
about it"
Biodynamics, based on lunar
made entirely from Cheand planetary cycles, is an
nin grapes that results in
Eric Nicolas, wine grower
exacting method that Eric
a honey-coloured wine
with a uniquely refreshing minerality. Just a few Nicolas applies with the help of his wife Chrismiles further and you reach Eric Nicolas’ estate. tine. "There are days for treating roots, flowers
His 13 hectares of vineyards on flint- and clay- and foliage. We don’t use insecticides but we
rich soil are spread over 5 villages. "I started apply limited doses of copper and sulphur." In
making wine because I’m passionate about it. the chai (cask cellar) next to the cave, the couple
Depending on the weather and on noble rot, my welcome visitors, by appointment, who are keen
wines can range from very dry to very sweet." to find out more about the rich complexities of
We head for the cave dug into the tuffeau stone. their terroir wines.
www.belliviere.com
44
enpaysdelaloire.com
DISCOVER THE LOIR
VALLEY’S VINEYARDS
Enjoy an exquisite weekend in the
beautiful Loir Valley, a great destination for wine lovers.
sharing)
2 days/1 night
Price includes: 1 night in a 4-star B&B,
breakfast, visit to a wine producer and
free tasting, dinner in a guest house or
restaurant, and a gourmet hamper at the
village delicatessen. Accommodation
and attractions have been awarded the
Vignobles & Découvertes quality seal.
Bookings: +33 (0)2 72 88 18 74
45
Events in 2014
Events in 2014
Major highlights in 2014
Maine et Loire
Anjou Vélo Vintage
Fans of retro fashion and cycling enthusiasts come together each year for this
unique, lively event. This year’s edition will
be held on 28 and 29 June 2014 in Saumur.
Tempo Rives
This free festival takes place throughout the
summer in Angers, on the banks of the Maine
opposite the château. It offers a great chance to
discover Angers’ brightest young stage hopes as
well as new international talents that are sure to
hit the headlines over the next few years.
with a new show on 6, 7 and 8 June 2014. When
they last came, in 2011, the Royal de Luxe’s
Little Girl-Giant introduced her dog, El Xolo, to
the people of Nantes. This time, she’ll be coming
with her grandmother. But as for the story – that
remains a well-kept secret…
The night-time magic of the Chimères
Festival de Terre-Neuve
In July, the splendid inner courtyard of the Renaissance château in Fontenay-le-Comte is the
backdrop for a selection of French theatre classics, featuring talented local actors as well as a
host of famous faces – Michel Leeb, Hélène de
Fougerolles and Francis Huster all starred in last
year’s edition.
The cream of heavy metal at the Hellfest
Loire Atlantique
side to the Mayenne department with its unique
blend of theatre and heritage. Great theatrical
productions are staged in iconic heritage venues
– from château courtyards to farms and village
squares – in Sainte-Suzanne, Jublains, Laval and
elsewhere.
Au foin de la rue
Régates du Bois de la Chaise
A delightful "Journey" to Nantes
Accroche Cœurs
An elephant that is literally larger than
life, a 15th century château and an art trail
featuring some of today’s greatest artists
are just a few of the things Nantes has
to offer. Visitors to the city are advised to
follow the green line which leads them
through the city streets where they can
discover everything from hidden works of
art to remarkable heritage attractions. The
30-stop "Journey" gives visitors a unique
way to experience the city "off the beaten
track"…so to speak.
Trivium, Emperor, Carcass, Watain, Iced Earth –
the first names confirmed for the line-up of the
2014 Hellfest, held on 20-22 June 2014 in Clisson, near Nantes, seal the heavy metal festival’s
reputation as the top event of its kind in Europe.
Even better – there are whispers that the iconic
Iron Maiden, Aerosmith and Black Sabbath may
put in an appearance.
Escales de Saint-Nazaire
The 23rd edition of this international festival will
take place on 1 and 2 August 2014 in Saint-Nazaire harbour, on the banks of the Loire estuary.
Last year, some 40,000 people came to see Asaf
Avidan, Earth, Wind & Fire and Goran Bregovitch.
Every year since 1999, over a weekend in September, the streets of Angers have come to life as
some 50 street art companies put on shows that
range from the magical to the enchanting or the
simply absurd, drawing huge crowds.
Sarthe
Cholet Carnival
24 Hours of Le Mans
The carnival is a true Cholet institution. For more
than a hundred years, this colourful event, held
over a week in April, has attracted little and big
kids alike. 27 April - 3 March.
Festival d’Anjou
The Rendez-vous de l’Erdre
Every June, the world of motor racing gathers
along the legendary Hunaudières straight. This
ultimate challenge is a chance for the greatest
endurance racing teams in the world to road
test their latest technological developments.
Don’t forget Le Mans Classic, scheduled from
4 to 6 July, which will see historic cars gather
to revive the 24-hour race.
Every year, more than 250,000 spectators are
spellbound by the beautiful Nuit des Chimères.
This free night-time show, projected onto the
monuments in Le Mans with a clever blend of
animated images and sound effects, has been
updated with new sequences for 2014.
Baroque festival in Sablé
The baroque festival held in Sablé-sur-Sarthe
at summer’s end is not one to miss. The festival
programme is expertly put together to include
concerts, singing and dancing in a variety of
styles ranging from classical to contemporary –
there’s sure to be something for everyone!.
Vendée
Foulées du Gois
This race against the sea is the only one of its
kind in the world! The 4km run from Beauvoirsur-Mer to Noirmoutier began in 1986. Last
year over 1,800 runners took on the challenge
across the Passage du Gois. The 28th edition
will take place on 5 July 2014.
Estivales du Cadre noir
From 10 to 12 July 2014, three evening shows
present the skills of the famous riders in the finest tradition of the French equestrian academy.
46
For the people of Nantes, late summer is all
about jazz and sailing! From 28 to 31 August
2014, the river Erdre and its banks will play host
to some 300 musicians and over a hundred tall
ships between Nort-sur-Erdre and the Cours des
50-Otages in Nantes. Don’t miss it!
The Giants of Royal de Luxe
Save the date! Jean-Luc Courcoult’s legendary
street theatre company is coming back to Nantes
Mayenne
Festival des 3 Eléphants.
Every year at the end of May, the "Les 3 Eléphants" festival brings three days of great
shows and events to Laval. Several stages
are set up throughout the town to host the
impressive line-up of performers.
enpaysdelaloire.com
FAMILY BREAKS IN
NANTES
Eclectic line-up at Poupet
The Festival d’Anjou, one of France’s top open-air
theatre festivals, has been entertaining spectators for over 60 years. It will take place in Plessis-Macé, Angers and Saumur from 10 June to 5
July 2014.
Noirmoutier-en-l’Ile’s Plage des Dames is the
setting for sailboats, yachts, shows, sports events
and competitions in mid-August 2014 for the
25th anniversary of the great Bois de la Chaise
Regatta.
This eclectic, ethical music festival in Mayenne
will celebrate its 15th anniversary in 2014 (on 4
and 5 July in Saint-Denis-de-Gastines). The secrets of its success are a varied, quality line-up, a
unique décor designed and produced by a team
of volunteers, and a welcoming atmosphere that
focuses on accessibility for all, cultural initiatives
and sustainable development.
In the Vendée town of Saint-Malo-du-Bois, the
Festival de Poupet has become the summer’s
biggest event. At last year’s edition of this rural
music festival, Elton John, C2C, Skip the Use, M
and David Guetta took to the stage.
Festival des Affranchis
17th edition of Face & Si
"Les Affranchis" in La Flèche is a street theatre
and art festival. It takes place over the second
weekend in July and is one of France’s leading
street art events. A host of actors, jugglers, acrobats and musicians entertain young and old alike
in the town’s streets.
The little festival in Mouilleron-le-Captif has
become a major event. The 17th edition will take
place on 5-7 September 2014 in Beaupuy Park,
near the Longère and in Vendéspace, with three
days of songs, rock, jazz and comedy.
Nuits de la Mayenne
The Nuits de la Mayenne has been attracting
crowds every summer for over 40 years. This
travelling theatre festival reveals a whole new
From 27 June to 31 August, follow the
greenway and discover unmissable
attractions for both adults and children – the Ponti sculptures in the Jardin des Plantes, a 600m² beach and a
playground on the banks of the Loire,
the basketball tree, the Carrousel des
Mondes Marins, the Machine Gallery
on the island and the Big Elephant…
From €155 for 4, 2 days/1 night
Price includes: 1 night’s accommodation
for 4, 24-hour Nantes family pass. Not
valid with any other current promotion.
Valid from 27 June to 31 August 2014.
Offer valid outside these dates on
Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and
during school and bank holidays.
Bookings: 0892 464 044 (€0.34/min.,
calls from France only)
45
Échos
Try
Taste
Oysters
Foie gras
It’s a little-known fact, but Vendée is France’s
third-ranked producer of foie gras, after the
Dordogne and Gers. Les Herbiers is home to the
largest duck abattoir in the world. And as for
the delicious foie gras produced here – well, it
speaks for itself…
Préfou
From the traicts of Le Croisic to the Bay of Bourgneuf (France’s third-largest farm) and the Bay
of Aiguillon-sur-Mer at Vendée’s southern tip,
hollow oysters are raised and matured in shallow oyster beds in water that is low in salt and
rich in plankton. A pure delight, with a crunchy
bite and thick flesh.
La gâche vendéenne
This local delicacy has recently secured Protected Geographical Indication status. It’s similar to
brioche vendéenne (which also has PGI status)
but is made with more butter and cream and has
a much finer, denser crumb. Gâche vendéenne
can be flavoured with orange blossom, brandy,
rum or vanilla.
These days you can find préfou with roquefort,
goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, but true
préfou, from Fontaines in southern Vendée, is
flavoured with garlic. This flatbread stuffed with
salted butter and garlic is baked at the front of
the oven (hence "pré-four" – "four" is French
for oven) and is great served with an aperitif or
a leg of lamb.
Crémet nantais
Crémet nantais is a much-loved dessert in
Nantes, the city of the Dukes of Brittany. It’s
made with cream, egg whites and fromage frais
and is often served with a raspberry coulis or as
a creamy topping over a fresh fruit salad.
48
Mogette de Vendée
This iconic culinary speciality in Vendée is made
from white mogette (or mojette) beans, which
are cooked slowly in water for several hours until tender. They are then spread on a generously
buttered slice of toast for a delicious melt-in-themouth delicacy that is enjoyed at Vendée village
festivities. Poiré-sur-Vie even has a mogette festival that takes place every year in mid-August.
Just a few miles from the thousand-year-old
Solesmes Abbey lies the Sablé-Solesmes golf
course, a great place to perfect your technique. This beautiful landscaped course in the
lush green Sarthe Valley includes challenging
lakes and water features.
On the Pays de la Loire coastline, you’re never
too far from a golf course – there are 6 in
Vendée and 14 in Loire-Atlantique, giving you
ample opportunity to play a quick 18 holes.
Sweets
The region has
a mouth-watering selection
of sweet treats,
from rigolettes
nantaises and Gautier-Debotté berlingots to
Manuel’s niniches in La Baule, not forgetting
And some of the region’s courses are really
worth travelling the extra mile for: the Bretesche course in Missillac is one of the most
beautiful in France, the Ile d’Or course in Le
Cellier is tucked away on an island on the
Loire, and the 220-hectare La Baule course in
Saint-André-des-Eaux is the largest course in
France.
www.ligue-golf-paysdelaloire.asso.fr
Hotel stays in Fontevraud abbey
A chance to sleep in the peaceful tranquillity of a historical abbey, enjoy breakfast in the priory orchard or
take a contemplative walk after nightfall in the beautiful
setting of Fontevraud – these are just some of the treats
that guests at the prestigious hotel and restaurant, due
to open on xxxxx, can look forward to. The Pays de la
Loire Region, which owns the abbey, has commissioned
the project to architects Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku,
the masterminds behind the Jules Verne restaurant at
the top of the Eiffel Tower. The hotel will have 54 elegant rooms offering a perfect blend of traditional and
modern.
www.hotel-fontevraud.com
caramels flavoured with Guérande or Noirmoutier sea salt and Nantes-based Larnicol’s famous
candied fresh fruit macarons.
The Fiefs Vendéens were awarded their own
appellation (AOC) a few years ago. This 480-hectare region is divided into 4 zones – Brem, Pissotte, Mareuil and Vix – where winemakers produce light, fruity, elegant wines. As for the classic
Muscadet from the Nantes area, it has had its
own appellation since 1937. This dry white wine
has floral, fruity notes and is the perfect accompaniment to a platter of local seafood.
It may currently resemble a vast building site on the coastline, but by 2016 the resort of Sion-sur-l’Océan, in SaintHilaire-de-Riez, will have a new seawater therapy centre
courtesy of the company SBLC set up by former rugby
star Serge Blanco. After the Relais Thalasso in Les Sablesd’Olonne and the Thermes Marins in Saint-Jean-de-Monts,
this will be the third seawater therapy complex in Vendée.
Similar centres can be found in Loire-Atlantique, in Pornic,
La Baule and Pornichet.
Work on your swing in Solesmes and elsewhere
Wine
Curé nantais
Curé Nantais is a firm favourite in the Pays de
la Loire. This uncooked, pressed cheese has a
strong flavour. It is made in Pornic but is believed to have originated from Saint-Julien-deConcelles, in the Nantes wine region – which
explains why it goes perfectly with a glass of
Muscadet or Gros Plant.
Petit Beurre and Choco-BN and the Petit Mouzillon (the perfect partner to Muscadet). On the
coast, the biscuits of choice are the Saint-Michel,
Breton sablé and Noirmoutier palet.
Seawater therapy on the coast
Prunier reinvents rillettes
Biscuits
Around Nantes and its wine region, visitors are
greeted by the tempting aromas of LU’s famous
Shopping near Cholet
The secrets of rillette production have been
passed down through the generations in this
family of butchers. In Connerré, Maison Prunier
concocts unique recipes that are now sold in supermarkets. As well as traditional pork rillettes,
their chicken rillettes with lemon and olives are
delicious spread on a hunk of bread.
Shopping fans won’t want to miss out on the great selection
of boutiques available in La Séguinière, near Cholet. On one
side of the road, Marques Avenue brings you over 80 top
brands including designer fashion, shoes, sports equipment
and sportswear, home accessories and electronics, all with
discounts of at least 30%. On the other side, the Circuit des
Marques features 25 outlet shops containing around a hundred different brands. The principle is the same – the centre
offers quality end-of-line and clearance items with reductions of 30 to 50%. Wallets at the ready!
www.marquesavenue.com
www.circuit-des-marques.com
Escal’Atlantic and the Oasis liner: two for one in Saint-Nazaire
In Saint-Nazaire, the town that built the legendary France and Queen
Mary 2 liners, opting for a two-in-one "liner tour" is definitely a great
idea. The ticket includes entry to Escal’Atlantic, the major local tourist
attraction. This interactive museum housed inside a submarine base
presents several decades of the history of transatlantic cruise liners
and offers panoramic views of the mighty ocean from a perfectly
reconstructed promenade deck. Some 200 artefacts from liners built
in Saint-Nazaire are on display. The ticket also gives you a chance to
visit the neighbouring STX shipyard, where the world’s biggest cruise
ship, the Oasis 3, is currently being built. Booking required.
www.saint-nazaire-tourisme.com
49
Bring home
Vendée soap
In La Guérinière, on
the island of Noirmoutier, natural
cold-process soaps
are made by combining vegetable
oils that are rich
in fatty acids, plant extracts to add fragrance,
mineral pigments for colour, and often soothing herbs to treat inflammations, dermatosis
and eczema. In Beauvoir-sur-Mer, the "Maison
de l’âne" has also been making natural soaps
since 2002 using donkey milk fresh from the
next-door farm.
tise, basket maker Daniel Breillat has been practising his art for more than 25 years. He sells his
wares at his workshop near the church.
A hat
Capelines, borsa’linottes and berniks are some
of the unique "Made in Yeu" hats produced by
Morgan Tonnel on the Ile d’Yeu. You can find
these unique creations at the shop and at markets in Saint-Sauveur and Port-Joinville.
Earthenware from Malicorne
Sandals or clogs
Ever thought of custom-designing your own
pair of sandals? In Sandales Côté Mer, on Noirmoutier, customers have been able to choose
their own colour, leather, exact size and style
for the past fifteen years. But a word of advice
– head straight there when you arrive on the
island as production times vary according to
demand. In Les Sables-d’Olonne, another great
choice of footwear is a pair of handmade YouYou clogs. The shop even sells special Vendée
mules – moleskin shoes discreetly stamped
with a gold Vendée heart emblem.
A traditional cast iron artwork
Europe’s last cast iron founder comes from
the Vendée. In Fontenay-le-Comte, Alain Adin
specialises in art foundry. At his miniature
ironworks, he produces sculptures, artworks,
firebacks and copies of antiques.
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A wicker basket
There is a long tradition of basketry in the area’s
marshlands, particularly in Brière but also in the
Breton and Poitou marshes in Vendée, where
hampers, cribs, baskets and chests are made.
In the "Green Venice" town of Nieul-sur-l’Au-
The shop at the Espace Faïence de Malicorne
offers a wide variety of earthenware in a myriad of different shapes and colours, from laceedged dishes to cups, jugs, bowls, plates and
decorative items. Whether traditional or more
contemporary in style, each piece is a unique
work of art.
"Pays de la Loire, Your holiday destination" is a free supplement with the newspapers Ouest-France, Courrier de l’Ouest,
Maine-Libre and Presse Océan, produced in partnership with the Pays de la Loire Region. N°ISSN : 2261-1622
Editorial coordinator: Claude Saulais.
Rédaction: Anne-Marie d’Argentré, Annie Rapin, Antoine Gazeau, Cédric
Soulié, Sébastien Rochard., David Prochasson
Photos: Nathalie Bourreau, Michel Plassart, Antonio Bozzardi, Olivier
Blin, Bégé, Michel Durigneux, Manuel Thiéry, Dominique Drouet, JC Rocand,
Sylvain Bonniol, Bruno Schoch, Simon Bourcier, Jean-Dominique Billaud,
Joël Damase, R. Etienne, Fabien Lepeltier, Image Department of the Pays de
la Loire Regional Agency. Coverr : Christophe Favreau
50
Production: Prepress Department of the Courrier de l’Ouest, Stéphane Suard
Printing: Imaye, Laval (53)
Advertising agency: Precom, Agence de Nantes, 18 avenue Jacques
Cartier, BP 70 109, 44 817 Saint-Herblain CEDEX
Acknowledgments: L’Agence régionale - Pays de la Loire Territoires
d’Innovation, Brigitte Paulmyer, Cécile Lusseau-Rossi, Delphine Venant
To get informations about
trail places, artworks, artists:
Get ready for your trip and prepare your stay:
www.levoyageanantes.fr
Serpent d’Océan, Huang Yong Ping, Saint-Brevin. © Gino Maccarinelli
Crédit photos : Saint-Brevin-les-Pins © Franck Charel - Saumur © Joël Damase

Visit Pays de la Loire

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