April 2012 - Bribie Island Orchid Society

Bribie Island Orchid Society
Bulletin April 2012
PO Box 127 Bribie Island Q 4507
www.bribieislandorchidsociety.com
President:
Ian McLaren
3408 9698
Secretary:
Lynnette Hauck
3410 1919
Treasurer:
John Stokes
3408 9228
Editor:
John Stokes
3408 9228
MEETINGS
Committee Meeting
Held on the first Tuesday of the month. The meeting commences at 1.30 pm at The Bribie Island
Bowls Club. This meeting is restricted to Committee members only.
Cultural Meeting
Held on the fourth Tuesday of the month, at The Orchid House, 156A First Avenue, Bribie Island.
Meeting time is 1.30pm. Plants to be benched by 1.15pm please.
New Growers Meeting
Held on the second Saturday of the month. These meetings are also held at The Orchid House
commencing at 1.30pm.
Next New Growers Meeting (14 April)
At the next meeting we will research orchid genera under the guidance of Lynn Hauck and utilising our library resources.
New growers are also invited to bring along any plants for cultural advice.
Benching categories for experienced growers will again be Cattleya/Dendrobium/Vandaceous/Oncidium/Phalaenopsis/Other/
Foliage.
New growers can bench any number of plants in any category
Next Cultural Meeting (24 April)
At the next Meeting Mel will talk about judging orchids, assisted by the other judges in attendance.
Don’t forget please, plants to be benched up to 1.15pm and meeting starts at 1.30pm sharp.
March Cultural Meeting
Seems everyone is in the same boat with few plants in flower which was reflected on the
benches at our last meeting but there was a good attendance and after the usual proceedings
discussion focussed on our forthcoming show.
Our guest speaker was Des Warnock who is always a mine of information about the natural way
of gardening and on this occasion also introduced his new orchid fertiliser.
On the benches the judges’ choice and popular choice went to C. Fitz Eugene Dixon belonging to
Don and Margaret. This is a cross between Portia and walkeriana, first registered in 1922.
The Winner
And some of the others
March New Growers
About 40 people attended our last meeting to hear Merv give some very helpful advice on preparation of plants for showing.
Novice
First
Owner
Cattleya
C. bowringiana x forbesii (now
Ctt. Meadii)
P. Shaw
Den. Muang Thai x Thai Gem
(now Den. Garish)
P. Shaw
Milt. unknown
N. Lee
Rabbit’s Foot Fern
B. Schultz
C. Mini Purple
J&B Hopgood
Vandaceous
Aer. lawrenciae
D&M Neldner
Dendrobium
Den. Bigibbum compactum
J&B Hopgood
Onc. Moonshadow ‘Tiger Tail’
J&B Hopgood
Phalaenopsis
Dor. pulcherrima
J&J Stokes
Other
Ddc. macranthum
J&B Hopgood
Anthurium/Fern/Brom.
D&M Neldner/J&J McKinnon/
D&M Neldner
Dendrobium
Other
Foliage
Open
Cattleya
Oncidium
Foliage
Novice Winners
Some Open Winners
News and Notices
Bunnings Sausage Sizzle
Wow now I know at first hand
how hard these people work!
Big thanks are due to Di and her
team (Ken, Jim and June, Bob,
Jeanette and subs John and
Jackie) for another very successful Sizzle, proceeds of which
will go towards helping a local
charity. Well done people.
Following from Di.
I would like to extend a
"special thank you" to our
sausage-sizzle team Ken
Carleton, Jim and June
McKinnon, Bob Lloyd, and
our newcomers Jeanette Saviane and John and Jackie Stokes for their outstanding
efforts in making the day at Bunnings the success that it was. Your team effort was
sincerely appreciated. Our next sausage-sizzle will be the 5th of May at Bunnings.
Thanks again, Diann Sirett.
Invitation to Our Celebratory 25th Anniversary Dinner
When:
Sat 14th April
Where:
Bribie Island Hotel
Time:
6.00pm
Cost:
$15 members, $20 non-members
For 2 courses (alternate drop)
All Welcome
RSVP to Val Anderson (Tel 3408 7706)
New Members
A big BIOS welcome to our new members
Alan and Cathy Rodwell and Carolyn Burke.
Alan joined us on our excursion to Frizzo’s and is now ready to get serious.
May all your orchids thrive and star on the show bench.
5
News and Notices (cont.)
Membership fees due
Yes its that time of year again. Membership
fees due by end of April. Payment to Treasurer
please. Still only $15 per family.
Show Sponsors
Thanks are due to Patricia Shaw, Brian and
Lois McKane, Hopgoods (Vanda class), M&J
Venz (Floral Art), W&J Corney (Paphiopedilum),
R. Williams and M&V Anderson for sponsoring
classes at our forthcoming show.
Open Garden
The Garden:
Maleny Botanic Gardens
The address:
233 Maleny-Stanley River
Road, Maleny
The Date:
Sunday the 22nd of April –
ONE DAY ONLY
Open:
9:00am to 4:30pm
Entry Fees:
Adults $10, Pensioners
$8,Children under 15 free
Attractions:
Privately owned 12 acres of
vibrant flowering gardens interspersed with
stands of mature trees, numerous water features and open stretches of lawn all connected
by easily accessible path.
Colin Campbell giving talks at 11:00am and
1:30pm
Ample parking on the property, including bus
and disabled parking
Morning and afternoon teas and picnic lunches
available.
Light musical entertainment.
Raffles and plants for sale.
Gardening Clubs and Bus Groups are very wel-
Social Activities
This year we plan a few excursions and welcome
all members their families and friends to join us
for a wonderful experience.
Savoyards
We are fortunate enough to get some discount
theatre tickets from the Savoyards Musical Comedy Society for two shows at the Iona Performing Arts Centre at Lindum.
Saturday 23rd June we are going to see "Miss
Saigon". We will stop at the Manly water
front and Shopping Centre to have lunch at our
own expense before proceeding to the show.
Saturday the 6th of October
We will again be going to a Savoyards performance of "Anything Goes" at Iona Performing
Arts Centre at Lindum. This time we will stop at
the Cannon Hill Shopping Centre for shopping
and lunch at our own expense before proceeding
to the show.
Both these excursions will leave from 19 Eighth
Avenue, Woorim at 9am via the regular pick-up
points listed above and will return to Bribie at
about 5.30pm. The cost of each of these excursions for bus and theatre tickets will be $60 .
As these excursions are often in big demand it is
important to book early to reserve a seat to
avoid disappointment.
Please book with Diann or Allan Sirett on
34081130 email: diall@aapt.net.au
Orchid Wiz
From: John Terrill (at johnter@bigpond.com)
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 3:51 PM
Subject: Making up an order for Orchid Wiz.
Is any body interested in putting together a bulk
order for Orchid Wiz at a discounted price. Regards to all , John Terrill
Caboolture Bus Trip to Bundaberg
We are having a bus trip to Bundaberg on the
weekend of the 28th and 29th of April 2012. We
have a few seats left if any of your members
would be interested. The cost for the weekend is
$150 which includes bus fare, accommodation
and all meals. We will be giving final figures on
the 14th of April. Looking forward to hearing
from you. Contact Jackie O’Connor at
cosinc@cats.net.au or 54954087.
Show Publicity
Did you all see those eye-catching photos in our
local papers and The Northern Times?
Well done Gwendella.
MARCH BENCHING RESULTS
1st (Plant Name)
1st
2nd
3rd
Exhibition
Blc. Karen’s Sunrise
Z&D Holm
D&M Neldner
M&V Anderson
Miniature/compact
Ctna. Brandi OC
D&M Neldner
Novelty
Pot. Burma Beauty
S. Maller
Cluster
C. Fitz Eugene Dixon
D&M Neldner
D&M Neldner
M&V Anderson
Den. Dal’s Memory
J&B Hopgood
D&M Neldner
J&J Stokes
Under 60mm
Ascda. Suksamran ‘Sunlight’
J&B Hopgood
B&M Elliot
B&M Elliot
Species
Trichoglottis
B&M Elliot
Phal. sanderiana
J&J Stokes
Unknown
B&M Elliot
Milt. spectabilis
J&B Hopgood
Cattleya
Dendrobium
Any Other
Vandaceous
Phalaenopsis
Species
J&J Stokes
Paphiopedilum
Any other
Oncidium
Species
Any Other
Onc. Sharry Baby
S. Maller
Other Alliance
Miltonia x Brassia cochlioda
S. Maller
S. Maller
Species
Prosthecea cochleata
J&B Hopgood
Hybrid
Zygopetalum
S. Maller
Spa. plicata
D&M Neldner
Unknown
B. Schulz
B. Schulz
M&V Anderson
M&V Anderson
J. Harrison
Miscellaneous
J&B Hopgood
G. Cooper
Aust Natives
Terrestial
Novice
Foliage
Anthurium
Tillandsia
Ferns
Black Caterpillar
J&J McKinnon
M&V Anderson
J&J McKinnon
Bromeliad
Nid. regeloides
M&V Anderson
M&V Anderson
M&V Anderson
Foliage other
Unknown
Z&D Holm
M&V Anderson
Popular Vote Orchid– C. Fitz Eugene Dixon (D&M Neldner)
Popular Vote Foliage– Black Caterpillar (J&J McKinnon)
Judges Choice– C. Fitz Eugene Dixon (D&M Neldner)
Judges– M. Wheeler, T. Davis, J. Carleton
Scribes— B. Hopgood.
DATES
TO
REMEMBER
6-7 April
BIOS Silver Anniversary Dinner
14 April
New Growers Meeting
13-14 April
14 April
Sunshine Coast Show (Label requests to Mel Wheeler by Tues
10th please)
BIOS Silver Anniversary Dinner
21 April
South Burnett Show at Wondai Diggers Club
24 April
Cultural Meeting
1 May
Committee Meeting
5 May
Bunnings Club Sausage Sizzle
12-13 May
Pumicestone Show
6-8 July
Caboolture Show
11-12 August
Maroochydore Show
31 Aug-1 Sep
Nambour Show
28-29 September
Glasshouse Show
13-14 October
BIOS Show
26-27 October
Nambour Species Show
10-11 November
Pumicestone Show
17 November
STOCQ Meeting at Maroochydore
For timetable of all Queensland and Northern NSW shows see the noticeboard in The
Orchid House or Brisbane Orchid Society calendar on the internet if you have access.
National/International Shows.
1.
Tropical Orchid Council, Queensland, Conference, Ingham 8 – 10 June 2012
2.
10-16 Sept 2012, 19th AOC Conference and Show, Perth (more info at website
www.waorchids.iinet.net.au/19th_AOC_Conference.htm - note underscores before
and after AOC).
3.
8-9 June 2013, Gympie Golden Orchid Spectacular
TRIPPING
AND
POTTING
Bus Trip
A full bus load braved the inclement weather to visit Frizzo’s impressive collection. A good
number of those on the bus were new members which was pleasing to see and they would
have learnt a lot from two of the biggest orchid growers in our area, Noela and Italo Frizzo.
Italo shared his secret recipe for potting mix which was as follows (I think!):
To 70 litres of water add 2 blocks of coco chips, one OMO scoop of calcium nitrate, one of
seaweed solution and 3/4 scoop of
magnesium sulphate and allow to
stew.
When ready to pot up make a mix of
coco chips and super coarse perlite at
3:1 ratio.
Throw in a handful of blood and bone
and you are ready to go.
Finally after potting sprinkle a little
controlled release fertiliser (he uses
Plantacote 6mth) on top of the mix.
He then foliar fertilises the potted
plants on a regular basis.
For newly deflasked seedlings he
sprinkle on a little blood and bone,
sprays daily with Captan (fungicide),
worm juice and seaweed solution and
puts a few grains of Plantacote on
top.
PERLITE and PEAT POTTING MIX for ORCHIDS by Bruce Bennett (extract from
Sutherland Shire Orchid Society Bulletin).
Perlite and Peat is an alternative potting mix to use when things go wrong with your
orchids. It's easy to use, it's cheaper and more readily available than good quality
bark, its components are not broken down by bacteria (which robs plants of nitrogen),
it's easily removed without damaging roots during re-potting and it's suitable for use
with a low nitrogen fertiliser.Chillagoe Queensland perlite is sold in 100 litre bags and
is available in a number of grades. `Super Coarse' is suitable for most plants, while
'Jumbo' is better for plants with large roots. Tip the perlite into water and screen off to
remove dust. Perlite is neutral (pH 7) and sterile. Canadian Peat is sold in 275 litre
bales, rather large for an individual but two or more growers could share a bale. When
sieving perlite and breaking up peat, use a facemask to avoid breathing the dust. For
general use, mix 8 parts perlite to 1 part screened peat, adding 5 g of lime per litre of
peat to give a pH of about 6.5 (a more water-retentive mix comprising only five parts
of perlite to one of peat has been used during the recent drought). Add any fertiliser of
your choice. Mix damp but not wet, so that the resultant mix flows easily. Peat holds
water very effectively and releases it reluctantly. Hold the plant in the pot and fill
around it the mixture with potting mix. Bump the pot on the bench to settle
the mix but do not try to compress it (as you might do with bark), or you may block
drainage and aeration.You may add a long acting fertiliser and top the pot with small
round river gravel to improve the appearance and deter weed growth. High light levels
and air movement will help prevent bacterial and fungal infection. Plants potted in this
mix seem to tolerate higher light levels than similar plants grown in other media.
Paphiopedilum, coelogynes, bulbophyllums, dendrochilums, oncidiums, prosthecheas,
lycastes, catasetums and many other genera all grow satisfactorily in this mix.
(Note from Editor-it seems that perlite/peat ratios vary widely from 1:1 to 8:1 depending on climatic conditions and type of orchids grown but it is probably fair to say
in Queensland a lower ratio of 7:1 is considered more suitable by growers in our area.)
CULTURAL NOTES—PHRAGMIPEDIUMS (CONCLUSION
FROM LAST
BULLETIN)
Humidity. Phrags enjoy humidity when they get it. The hybrids will get by at any humidity above
35%. You get better root growth and flower development at 60% to 80% humidity, but you can
do a nice enough job at lower humidity.
Potting Media. You can grow Phragmipedium orchids well in just about anything if you understand how to use the media. My recommendation is that you repot the Phrags into the same mix
that you use for most of your orchids. That way you will know about how long it will take for the
mix to begin to dry under your conditions. My personal favorite mix is a bark mix. I use a seedling
size, 1/8 inch, for plants in 5 inch pots and smaller. I use a medium size bark mix for plants in
larger pots. The key is to use a mix that holds water well and yet has good porosity for air movement to the roots. My mix is about 4 parts bark, 1 part charcoal, 1 part sponge rock, 1/2 part
coarse vermiculite, for a total of 6 1/2 parts. I have also grown Phrags in straight New Zealand
Sphagnum moss with excellent results. I believe Phrags will do well in what First Rays Orchids
calls semi-hydroponic growing. I have never tried semi-hydro myself, but from what I have heard
Phrags are well suited for it. Repot once a year, or sooner if the media breaks down. If the new
growth climbs up above the mix, turn the plant on its side a bit as you repot so the base of the
new growth is in the media. That way new roots will grow right into the mix. The new growth will
straighten out after a while after doing this. The best time to repot is when you see new root buds
developing on the base of the new growth, but any time you have time will work. Phrags grow
year round and can be repotted at anytime.
Fertilizer. Phragmipedium prefer a dilute fertilizer solution applied fairly often. Use high nitrogen, low phosphorous fertilizer at about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon (about 1000 ppm) every second
or third watering, about twice a month more or less. You can fertilize continuously if you drop
back to 1/8 (about 500 ppm) teaspoon per gallon every watering. Flush with clear water occasionally. Use the high nitrogen fertilizer year round. Do not switch to a high phosphorous
"Blossom Booster" formulation in the fall as many articles in the older literature suggest. The recommendation for use of a high phosphorous "Blossom Booster" fertilizer was based on historical
bad science, and may potentially be harmful to your plants. This urban legend actually comes
from 1920's British gardening practices and was not really scientifically tested until the last decade or so. So stick to high nitrogen fertilizer, a 30:10:10 or some other approximation will do.
The brand of high nitrogen fertilizer is not very important, the plants can't read the labels. Alos,
don't worry about whether the nitrogen comes from urea or not. The current fade around "Urea
Free" fertilizers is another pile of manure, so to speak. In Phrag culture, you are keeping the
plants wet. There are plenty of microbes and ample time for the urea to be broken down into the
form useful for the Phrags. Another point about brand names is that nitrogen labeled for African
Violets or Tomatoes is indistinguishable from nitrogen labeled for Orchids. Read the label and list
of ingredients, that is what is important. Do use a fertilizer with trace elements, good ones are
made by Peter's, Dynagrow, Sterns, or any other brand labeled as having the trace elements. The
Michigan State University formula fertilizer seems to be excellent. The MSU product is a
13:1:13:7:2:2 respectively nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur. I
realize I was trying to tell you what the minimum is you can get away with, but my initial trials
with this fertilizer have been rather good, so I thought I would tell you what I am actually doing,
rather than what you can get away with. Several companies make the MSU formula, and they will
advertise it as such. One is Green Care, Kankakee, IL. Blackmore is another company. If you see
it, give it a try. You can get reasonable results with just about any fertilizer on sale. If you are
getting leaf tip burn on newer leaves you are either fertilizing too heavy or running your plants
too dry between watering. More often than not, black leaf tips are due to lack of water, rather
than excess fertilizer.
Displaying your blooming Phrag. When in bloom and looking beautiful it is best to move the
plant to the center of your dining room table, or other place of honor in your home where you can
see it and enjoy it. A few days or even weeks away from where you grow it won't hurt it. We grow
them to enjoy them. Put your plant on display. The plant is tough, it will survive a spell on the
coffee table in the living room. Don't be afraid to more your plant around. Enjoy the fruits of your
labors.
CULTURAL NOTES –PHALAENOPSIS
How To Take Care of Phalaenopsis in Victoria Australia : eBay Guides
(Guide by kingyohouse 747)
Temperature
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
24ºC to 27ºC (75ºF to 80ºF) during the day
Not lower than 16ºC (60ºF) at night
In Victoria - this means you plants stay indoors in late Autumn to early Spring!
32ºC to 35ºC (90ºF to 95ºF) for faster vegetative growth (Summer yeah! But not in
direct sunlight please)
18ºC (65ºF) at night for initiating flower spikes
Ok now this is the funny part - in Victoria this means that if you did your vegetative
growing well, the plant should really flower into Winter.
In the tropical climates that farm phalaenopsis for the flower industry, they roll their
plants on the growing racks into a ‘chill room’ (imagine a large wine storage warehouse) at nights. Hence the year round supply of phalaenopsis in the flower shops.
Light
•
•
•
•
Shaded North, East or North East window is ideal in the home
South or West windows are acceptable
The idea is indirect sun or shaded direct sun (about 50% shade like what you would
get behind a lacey curtain)
Light is easy to provide for Phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with
little sun.
Water
•
•
•
•
•
Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry through
the pot. But not quite as bone dry as you would do with Cattleyas. For my phalaenopsis, I like the medium to be damp enough for the roots to appear green when
I look under the bark. Depending on what medium you pot with, the dampness and
hence timing between waterings can vary substantially. Also it depends on how
much ‘expose’ surface you have for the humidity to evaporate. But be very careful
they are not wet! Dripping wet more than 2-3 hours after watering is not the way to
go.
If potted with sphagnum moss I only have to water once every fortnight. If potted
with coarse bark I water every 3 days. If potted with coarse bark with a fine bark
mulch I only water once every week - I think you get the idea?
In the heat of summer in a dry climate, water the plant every 3 days
In the winter, water the plant every week
Water only in the morning, so that the leaves are dry by nightfall
Fertilizer
•
•
•
When the plants are growing: Apply a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
When flowering is desired, 4 months prior spike initiation, STOP high nitrogen applications and apply a 10-30-20 Blossom Booster
Apply the fertilizer every second watering
Potting
•
•
•
Phalaenopsis plants must be potted in a well-draining mix, such as bark, coir, loss
sphagnum moss, or combinations of these.
Potting is usually done every year after flowering. Mature plants can grow in the
same pot until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in 2 years.
To repot, remove the entire old medium from the roots, cut of soft, rotted roots, and
spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill
the rest of the pot with medium working it through the roots. Keep the plant shaded
and humid, but drier in the pot, for several weeks to promote new root growth.
Re-flowering
Cut the flower stem off from the bottom around 1” after all flowers fall down. After 4
months of vegetative growth you can treat with cool temperature (18ºC /65ºF) in the
night time (if you can’t wait for winter). The new flower spike(s) will be stimulated.
(Editor’s Note-although this is written for Victorian growers most of the content would
also apply to our conditions)
THE END
See if you can figure out what these seven words all have in common?
1. Banana
2. Dresser
3. Grammar
4. Potato
5. Revive
6. Uneven
7. Assess
(answer below but no peeking until you’ve tried!)
That’s all folks.
(Note-Bulletins can be viewed in colour on our website)
Contact Editor John ( phone 3408 9228 email stokes@sillyfrog.com) for more information on any of
above items.
DISCLAIMER While the Executive Committee and the editor of the BIOS Newsletter endeavour to
ensure the accuracy of the content of this Newsletter, neither the editor nor the Executive Committee and members of BIOS can assume any responsibility or liability for the views expressed or information included in this Newsletter.
Answer:
In all of the words listed, if you take the first letter, place it at the end of the word, and then spell the word
backwards, it will be the same word.
Return Address
Bribie Island Orchid Society
P.O. Box 127
Bribie Island QLD 4507