350+ Watt Sport Aerobatic Electric R/C Aircraft Length: 45.3“ • Wing

FUSION INSTRUCTION MANUAL
350+ Watt Sport Aerobatic Electric R/C Aircraft
Length: 45.3“ • Wing Span: 57.5” • Wing Area: 569 sq. in. • Weight: 60–92 oz.
Wing Loading: 15–21 oz. per sq. ft. • 3 Cell Lipoly Pack or 16 Cells 2400 mAh @ 35 amps.
Total Input Watts: 350–550 or 103 watts per lb. • Prop: 12” x 6” @ 7500 rpm • Top Speed: 45 mph
Recommended Engine: Astro Brushless 05 Geared, Astro Cobalt .25 Geared or Jeti Phasor 45/3 Brushless
Radio: 4 Channel • Servos: 4 Hitec HS85BB
ElectroFlying, Inc.
2547 83rd Court North, Minneapolis, MN 55444
763-560-5529 • info@electroflying.com
© 2003, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Rev.#5 4/26/2005
FUSION - INTRODUCTION
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WARNING!
THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE.
This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of
serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and yours
alone, to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying
gear (motor, batteries, speed control, radio, servos, pushrods, etc.) and to test
the model and fly it only with experienced competent help, using common
sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set forth in the Academy
of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the
AMA and become properly insured before attempting to fly this model.
Warranty
ElectroFlying, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both materials
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any
components damaged by use or modification. In no case shall ElectroFlyings'
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, ElectroFlying
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
ElectroFlying has no control over the final assembly or material used for
final assembly, therefore no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled aircraft
kit. By the act of using the user-assembled aircraft kit, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of
this aircraft kit, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and
unused condition to ElectroFlying, Inc.
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Geared Motor on a 3 cell Lipoly battery. You could also use an Astro 25 geared
motor or the Jeti Phasor 45/3 brushless motor powered by 16 NiCads. The
maximum flying weight should be less than 92 oz.
This kit contains laser cut parts for exceptional fit, quality and ease of
construction, however, you should have some kit building experience or
help from an experienced kit builder when building this kit. The Fusion Plans
were drawn with the aid of a computer using professional design software.
We believe that the Fusion Plans are a work of art and set a new standard in
kit manufacturing. The Fusion kit includes polished aluminum main landing
gear, and a clear streamlined canopy. Fusion's one-piece molded cowl will
save you hours of construction time over the more traditional multi-piece
cowls that other kits offer.
Protect Your Model, Yourself and Others.
Follow these important safety precautions:
1. This kit should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, it could cause injury to yourself and spectators or damage
to property, if it is not assembled and operated correctly.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or
modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model.
3. You must take time to build straight and strong. You should not use any
materials or kit supplied parts that you suspect are defective or damaged.
Request replacement kit parts from ElectroFlying, Inc.
4. You should only use R/C radio systems that are in perfect working order.
Read through this manual before starting construction. It contains important
instructions and warnings concerning the assembly and use of this model.
5. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to ensure
that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check prop, motor, battery straps, clevises and other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
The Fusion Design
6. Check control surface travel and direction before each flight.
Fusion is an original kit designed for modelers with an interest in electric
powered airplane models capable of aerobatics and sport flying. Fusion was
designed from the beginning to be an electric powered airplane, not an
adaptation of a glow-powered design. This airplane makes use of strong,
lightweight design and construction which improves electric powered flight
performance and duration. Fusion was designed to fly a wide range of
aerobatics from large, powerful loops, slow rolls, snaps and big stall turns.
Fusion's thin, nearly-symmetrical, progressive airfoil allows for a wide speed
range. Fusion flies smoothly and looks majestic in the air because of its well
balanced controls and large size for an electric. Fusion is a great flying electric
powered model that flies predictably. Fusion is not neutrally stable or self
correcting like a R/C trainer and should not be flown by a beginner R/C pilot.
7. Do a radio range check before the first flight or after any change to the
model's radio system. Never use a radio system that has been involved in a
crash without a professional check-out and repair if needed.
Fusion was designed to make motor battery changes as easy as possible, with
no tools required. You don't have to turn the airplane over or remove the wing
to change batteries. Fusion was designed to be flown with a 11–18 volt battery pack at 30–35 amps. The recommended motor is the Astro Brushless 05
8. Do not over-power this kit. Use only the recommended electric motors and
cells. Do not use any type of fuel powered engine.
9. Do not exceed maximum flying weight of 96 oz.
10. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model
only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.
11. While this airplane kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, the
airplane should not be used for high stress flying, such as racing.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit and instructions,
but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how
you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
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Before You Start
Optional Items Needed
Compare the parts in this kit with the parts list on page 4, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality.
If any part is missing, broken or poor quality, or if you have any questions
about building or flying this airplane, please call us at 763-560-5529, or email
us at info@electroflying.com. If you are contacting us for replacement parts,
please include the kit name, part name, part code/number and your mailing
address. You can also check our web site at www.electroflying.com for the
latest updates.
(1) Du-Bro aluminum spinner nut.
(1) 1/7 Scale Sportsman Pilot (Hanger 9)
(1) Wing Servo Mount (Dymond #10198 or Hobby Lobby #RA210)
Radio Equipment
The ElectroFlying Fusion can use any standard 4 channel dual-conversion
receiver, but to save a little weight you may want to use one of the smaller
receivers such as the Hitec 555 or FMA M5. Fusion has been design to use 4
Hitec HS-85BB servos. Use a four cell 600mAh pack for the receiver.
Motor and Batteries
Fusion has been designed to use either an Astro Brushless 05 geared motor
and 3 cell Lipoly battery, Astro 25 geared motor or Phasor 45/3 brushless
motor with 16 2400mAh cells. If you use the Astro 25 motor you will have to
purchase the Joseph Pasquito aluminum motor mount. If you use the Phasor
motor you will have to purchase the matching aluminum motor mount and
the Mpi collet prop adapter (5mm to 8mm, ACC378).
Additional Items Required to Complete Fusion
Propeller - APC 12" x 6" (Astro 05), APC 11" x 8.5" (Astro 25) or APC 10" x 7"
(Jeti Phasor 45/3)
(2) 12" Servo Extensions
(1) 4" Servo Extension
(1) "Y" Harness
(2) 2-3/4" Feather Lite Main Wheels (Du-Bro)
(1) 1-1/4" Mini Lite Tail Wheel (Du-Bro 150MW)
(2) 1-1/4" Long x 1/8" Dia. Axle Shafts (Du-Bro 246)
(2) 1/8" Wheel Collars
(1) 3/32" Wheel Collar
(1) 1/8" Nylon Steering Arm (Carl Goldberg 280)
(8) #2 x 1/2" Button Head Sheet Metal Screws (Du-Bro 526)
(4) #4 x 1/2" Button Head Sheet Metal Screws (Du-Bro 527)
(4) 1/4" x 20 Nylon Bolts
(1) 3/4" x 12" Velcro Battery Strap
(1) 18" x 3/4" Adhesive Back Velcro Strip (Hook and Loop Set)
(20) C/A hinges
(2) 1/2A Nylon Control Horns (Du-Bro 107)
(2) T-Style Nylon Control Horns (Du-Bro 237)
(5) Nylon Kwik-Links for 2-56 Rods (Du-Bro 122)
(5) 12" Threaded Pushrods with 2-56 Threads (Du-Bro 172)
(1) 48" Braided Fishing Line (20 LB. Test Dacron Trolling Line)
Building Supplies/Adhesives
1 oz. Thin C/A
1 oz. Thick C/A
C/A Accelerator (Optional)
5 Minute Epoxy
30 Minute Epoxy
30–45 Minute Laminating Epoxy (West Systems)
3M 77 Spray Adhesive
Epoxy Brushes and Mixing Sticks
2 oz. Fiberglass Cloth (5 sq. ft.)
Balsarite or SIG Dope (Optional)
R/C-56 Canopy Glue
120, 220 and 400 Grit Sanding Paper
Denatured Alcohol
Waxed Paper
Thread Locker
Lite Hobby Filler
2+ Rolls of Iron-On Plastic Covering
Building Tools
Flat level building surface (2' x 4' Ceiling Tile)
Hobby Knife and #11 Blades
Small T-Pins
Small Triangle
Small Bubble Level
Electric Drill and 3/32", 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" Drill Bits
Small and Medium Flat Blade Screw Drivers
Small and Medium Phillips Screw Drivers
Pliers or Vice Grips
Various Size Sanding Blocks
Tap and Drill Set with 1/4-20 Tap
Covering Iron and Sock
24" Straightedge/Ruler
Cutting Mat
Masking Tape
Various Small Clamps
Pencil
Rotary Tool and Reinforced Cut-off Wheel
Band Saw or Stiff Hobby Knife
Scissors
Wing Incidence Meter
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Supplied Parts List (Or What's In The Box)
Use the check-list below to make sure you have everything before you
start. If you are missing any parts, contact us at 763-560-5529 or at
info@electroflying.com.
General
 (1) This Manual (36 Pages, Illustrated)
 (2) Plan Sheets Rolled (24" x 44")
 (1) Aluminum Main Landing Gear (Polished, But Can Be Painted)
 (1) Molded Clear Canopy
 (1) Molded White Cowl (Single Piece Molded for Easier Construction)
 (1) 3/32" x 12" Music Wire (Elevator Joiner, Tail Wheel Leg)
Wood (Balsa, Birch & Lite-Ply)
 (4) Balsa Wedges (Aileron Control Horn and Wing Bolt Reinforcement)
 (2) 1/4" x 1" Birch Dowels (Wing Mounting Dowels)
 (2) 1/16" Laser Cut Plywood Servo Mount/Covers (Wing Servo Covers)
 (2) 1/16" Laser Cut Plywood Motor Mount Doublers For Astro Brushless 05
 (2) 1/32" Laser Cut Plywood Washers (Wing Bolt Washers)
 (2) 1-3/16" x 8-1/2" Pre Cut Balsa Wing Tips
 (2) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S1 (Wing Ribs 4, 5, 9, & 10)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S2 (Wing Ribs 1, 3 11, & 12)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S3 (Wing Ribs 6, 7, & 8)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S4 (Top Wing Center Sheeting)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S5 (Bottom Wing Center Sheeting)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S6 (Receiver Battery/Servo Tray, Servo
Tray Doubler, Former 1, Turtle Deck Former 1, Hatch Braces, 60º Gauge)
(1)
 Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S7 (Battery Tray, Fuselage Former 1,
Turtle Deck Former 1, Servo Tray Doubler)
(1)
 Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S8 (Fuselage Side Doubler, Landing
Gear Bracket, Wing Bolt Mount, Tail Wheel Bracket)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S9 (Fuselage Side Doubler, Landing
Gear Bracket, Wing Bolt Mount, Tail Wheel Bracket, 92º Gauge)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S10 (Rib 2, Motor Mounts, Wing Joiner)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply Sheet V1S11 (Servo Brackets, Motor Mount,
Shear Web)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S12 (Hatch Top, Canopy Back,
Turtle Deck Formers)
(1)
 Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S13 (Hatch Top, Canopy Back,
Turtle Deck Formers)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/4" Balsa Sheet V1S14 (Stab, Fin, Turtle Deck Top)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/4" Balsa Sheet V1S15 (Stab, Fin, Hatch Sides)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S16 (Fuselage Sides, Front Half)
 (2) Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S17 (Fuselage Sides, Rear Half)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S18 (Turtle Deck Sides)
 (1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply V1S19 (Astro Brushless Motor Mount)
 (9) 1/16" x 3" x 36" Balsa Sheet (Wing Leading and Trailing Edge
Sheeting, Fuselage Bottom Sheeting, Hatch Sheeting)
 (1) 1/8" x 3" x 12" Balsa Sheet (Fuselage Bottom Front Sheeting)
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 (6) 1/4" sq. x 36" Balsa Stick (Wing Spars, Tail Stringers)
 (2) 3/8" x 3/4" x 36" Balsa Stick (Wing Leading Edges)
 (2) 1/4" x 3/4" x 36" Balsa Stick (Wing Trailing Edges)
 (2) 3/8" x 1/2" x 36" Balsa Stick (Aileron Leading Edges)
 (4) 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" Balsa Stick (Rib Cap Strips)
 (4) 1/8" sq. x 36" Balsa Stick (Fuselage and Turtle Deck Stringers)
 (1) 1/2" Triangle x 36" Balsa Stick (Hatch and Fuselage Corners)
 (3) 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" Balsa Stick (Stabilizer, Elevator, Fin, Rudder)
 (1) 5/16" sq. x 36" Balsa Stick (Elevator/Rudder Pushrods)
Abbreviations
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer or Fin
TD = Turtle Deck Behind Canopy
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
" = Inches
Lite-Ply = Light Weight Model Grade Plywood
Building Notes
Whenever you see the term GLUE written in the instructions, you should use a
quality hobby grade Thin CA type glue. If the instructions use the term EPOXY,
you should use a 5–30 minute Epoxy adhesive. In some case the instructions
will specify 30 minute Epoxy for more working time or strength and it is
highly recommended that you use only 30 minute Epoxy adhesive then.
Photos and drawings in the instructions are placed to the left of the steps
they refer to. It may be helpful to look ahead in the instructions or refer to the
Plan call-outs if you are confused about the current step or photo.
Most of the wood parts in this kit have been laser cut for accuracy and quality.
The parts are held in place in each sheet by small tabs or breaks in the laser
cut. If you have trouble removing the parts from the sheets without damage,
you can use a hobby knife to cut the tabs. Take your time and inspect all
the parts after you have them removed. Very light sanding of the parts can
remove any tab bumps, but this should be unnecessary for the most part. The
3/16" and thinner wood will have a light brown edge from the laser that will
not have any effect on building strength, however 1/4" thick parts will have a
darker brown edge and should be lightly sanded. Be careful not to over sand
the soft balsa wood and change the shape or size. Save the wood scraps until
you have finished the kit.
Take your time and enjoy building your Fusion. Building from a kit can be a
satisfying part of this sport and can add to your skills as an R/C pilot. You will
have a better understanding of your airplane because unlike an ARF, you will
get to know every part and function as you build. Fusion has been designed
to build quickly and with Fusion's laser cut parts, building accuracy is easier
to achieve. Building your own R/C airplane from a kit can be one of the most
rewarding experiences in this sport. The following instructions will lead you
through the building process, so clean off the building board and get started
building your Fusion from ElectroFlying, Inc.
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Tail Group Construction
1  Start the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator construction by
covering the Plan with wax paper to protect the Plan and keep the
parts from sticking to it. The Stabilizer and Elevator are constructed
from 1/4" balsa stock.
2  Cut and pin 1/4" x 1/2" Stabilizer Trailing Edge (TE) and
Elevator Leading Edge (LE) to Plans. Cut 1/4" sq. Balsa TE doubler
and glue to front of Stabilizer TE. Position and pin laser cut pieces
SE1 through SE6 over Plans and CA in place. Note: be careful not
to glue the TE and LE together when gluing SE1 and SE6 to ends. A
strip of wax paper between TE and LE can be used.
3  Fit and cut remaining 1/4" x 1/2" balsa Stabilizer LE and
Elevator TE stock. Glue joints. Fit and cut remaining 1/4" sq. stock
and glue in place.
4  Cut Elevator free from Stabilizer.
5  Sand Stabilizer and Elevator flat. Round LE and ends of
Stabilizer. Draw a center line and bevel LE of Elevator for deflection
clearance. Note: front of Stabilizer will be trimmed to fit against
Turtle Deck Top before gluing to Fuselage.
6  Bend a piece of 3/32" Music wire using the Plans as a guide
for the elevator joiner. Use wire joiner as a guide and drill holes
and make a groove for wire to fit inside the elevator. Wire should
fit flush with front edge of Elevator. Epoxy in place. Make sure that
both halves of Elevator LE are in-line before Epoxy cures.
7  Taper Elevator down to 1/16" at the TE for best performance.
8  Start the Vertical Fin and Rudder construction by covering
the Plan with wax paper to protect the Plan and keep the parts
from sticking to it. The Vertical Fin and Rudder are constructed from
1/4" balsa stock.
9  Cut and pin 1/4" x 1/2" balsa Fin TE and Rudder LE stock to
Plans. Position and pin laser cut pieces FR1 through FR4 over Plans
and CA in place. Note: be careful not to glue TE and LE together
when gluing FR3 to end of LE. A strip of wax paper between can be
used.
10  Fit and cut remaining 1/4" x 1/2" balsa Vertical Fin LE and
Rudder TE stock. Glue joints. Fit and cut remaining 1/4" sq. stock
and glue in place.
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11  Sand Fin and Rudder flat. Round LE of Fin and top of Rudder. Draw a center line and bevel LE of Rudder for deflection clearance. Taper Rudder down to 1/16" at the TE for best performance.
12  Cut center Balsa LE between Elevator halves away from
Joiner Wire.
Note: Your finished Fin, Rudder, Stabilizer and Elevator should look
like this when your done. You should harden all the Balsa corners
with Thin CA for a little more durability. You may want to iron on a
strip of covering to the TE of the Stabilizer and the LE of the Elevator. This will make it easier to finish the covering after the Stabilizer
and Elevator have been glued to the Fuselage.
Wing Construction
13  Start the wing construction by covering the Wing Plan
with wax paper to keep the wing from sticking to it. Building the Left
Wing half first so that you can see the Right Wing Plan for reference.
Pin the 1/16" x 3" Balsa Bottom Leading Edge (LE) Sheeting over
Plan. Align sheeting edge with the center of the Main Spar on Plan.
14  Cut 2-1/2" wide 1/16" balsa sheeting for bottom Trailing Edge (TE). Starting 3/8" from the TE of the sheeting, tapper the
sheeting down to 1/32" thick at the TE. This will form a 1/16" thick
TE. Cut and tapper a second TE sheet for top.
15  Pin the Balsa TE sheeting down over Plan. Draw guidelines for ribs on sheeting.
16  Trim and glue 1/4" Square Balsa Main Spar on top of the
Leading Edge Sheeting. Note that the Spar overlaps only half of the
sheeting. Use straightedge as an aid.
Very Important! - Ribs are nearly symmetrical. The wing is
built top-side-up over Plan and you must make sure that you have
the ribs top-side-up. Look for small arrow near Rib label pointing to
Rib top edge. Check and double-check before you glue each Rib in
place, you don’t want to have to build another wing.
Note: Make sure that as you glue the ribs to the Main Spar that you
do not get any glue on the LE Sheeting at this time. The LE Sheeting
will be lifted and glued to the Ribs in a later construction step. Likewise as you glue the Ribs to the front edge of the TE Sheeting, make
sure that you glue only where the Rib contacts the front 1/8" of the
Sheeting. The TE Sheeting will be lifted and glued to the Ribs later.
17  Glue Rib 1 and Rib 2 to Lower Main Spar. These first 2
Ribs should tilt 2° towards the wing tip to allow for dihedral. Use
included Lite-Ply 92° Dihedral Gauge.
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18  The Bottom Forward Spar should be beveled to follow
the curve of the rib airfoil shape. Make this Spar from the Main Spar
trim piece. Slide the Spar into place after the first two Ribs have
been placed on the Main Spar. You will have to pull it up into the
notches of the first four Ribs as you add them to the Main Spar.
Glue this Forward Spar to the Ribs ONLY–and after you have the
first 4 Ribs glued to the Main Spar.
19  Glue Ribs 3–12 in place working out from the wing root
using the guide lines on the Plans and Sheeting. The front tips of Rib
#11 and Rib 12 should meet and be glued at the front edge.You may
need to trim Rib 12 flush with the front of Rib 11.
20  Make a beveled Top Forward Spar like you did for
the bottom. Glue the Top Main Spar and Forward Spar in place.
Remember to check that Rib 1 and Rib 2 tilt 2° towards the Wing
tip. Use included Lite-Ply 92° Dihedral Gauge.
Note: Use some small weights across the top of Ribs at about mid
cord to hold the Wing down securely for the next few steps.
21  Lift the TE Sheeting up against the bottom of each Rib
and glue. Work from the Wing Root out to the tip being careful
to not distort the TE or Ribs. You can lift sheeting with a scrap of
1/32" Plywood or old credit card under the wax paper.
22  Glue Balsa Filler Wedges near Rib 2 and Rib 7. These
support the Wing Bolts and Aileron Control Horns.
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23  Slide a 1/8" square stick of balsa under the Wing TE at
the location shown on the Plans. This stick will set the 1-1/2º of
washout in the Wing when the rest of the Sheeting is glued to the
Ribs in future steps.
Important: Keep the Wing/Ribs stationary while you do the following steps. Any twist or warp in the Wing will be SET as the rest
of the Wing Sheeting is glued to the Ribs.
24  Starting at the Wing Root, lift the LE Sheeting up and
glue it to the bottom of each Rib. It helps to use a scrap strip of
1/32" plywood or old credit card under the Sheeting to help keep
it in contact with the curve of the Rib from the Spar forward (see
photo).
25  Glue 1/16" Balsa vertical grain Shear Webbing on the
BACK and FRONT side of Forward Spar from Rib 2 through 4. Glue
1/16" Balsa vertical grain Shear Webbing on the FRONT side of
Main Spar from Rib 1 through 9. Epoxy 1/8" laser cut Lite-Ply vertical grain Shear Webbing (SW) on the BACK side of Forward Spar
between Rib 1 and 2
26  Fit and glue a scrap of 1/4" Balsa to completely fill space
between Top and Bottom Forward Spar and Rib 1 and 2. Note: The
front side of Forward Spars do not have a shear web, so that the
Wing Joiner (WJ) can be added after Wing halves are joined.
27  Glue on Sub LE to front of Ribs. Use 1/16" Balsa strip
trimmed from TE Sheeting. Refer to plans for Sub LE dimensions.
28  Glue Top LE Sheeting in place. Thick CA or Aliphatic Glue
(Pica Gluit) gives you more time to get the sheeting in place and in
full contact with the Ribs. It is very helpful to have an extra pair of
hands to help hold the sheeting in place while the glue sets. You
could also use T-pins or Sand Bag weights.
29  Glue Top TE Sheeting in place. Note: Take care to keep
TE straight when you join the top and bottom TE.
30  Glue laser cut WS1 Center Sheeting on top of Wing. Trim
laser cut WS2 Center Sheeting to fit and glue in place. Glue a scrap
of 1/16" Balsa between TE and WS2 to fill gap. Note: WS2 with
a hole should be used on the Wing top. This hole is for the Servo
Leads. Use the other WS2 without a hole for the Wing bottom.
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31  Add 1/16" x 1/4 " Balsa Cap Strips to the top of All Ribs
between LE and TE Sheet.
Note: The Wing is now somewhat stable, but care should be taken
not to distort the Wing until the bottom of the wing is sheeted.
32  Remove weights and turn the wing over. Glue 1/16"
Balsa vertical grain Shear Webbing to the back of the Main Spars
from Rib 1 through Rib 5.
33  Add the center bottom laser cut Sheeting WS1 and
WS2. This time use WS2 without the hole.
34  Add 1/16" x 1/4" Balsa Cap Strips to the bottom of All
Ribs between LE and TE Sheeting.
35  Trim and sand all Sheeting flush with Sub LE, Wing Root
and Wing Tip.
Note: Wing half should weigh about 4 oz. at this point.
36  Glue on 3/8" x 3/4" x 24-3/4" LE and then carve/sand
to shape. Follow cross section on Plans as a guide. LE should blend
smoothly into LE top and bottom sheeting. Note: Both wing's LE
must be the same radius/shape, or one wing may stall before the
other. Check and recheck the LE shape.
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37  Glue on pre-cut Wing Tip balsa blocks then carve/sand
to shape. Wing Tips should follow airfoil shape and have smooth
half round shape. Note: You can hollow out the Wing Tips to save a
little weight, but it seems more work than it's worth. It saved only
1/4 oz. on one of the prototypes.
38  Harden balsa rear corner of Wing Tip with Thin CA.
39  Mark and cut Aileron free from Wing. Use the measurement called out on the Plans. Take your time, LE edge of Aileron
and TE edge of wing must be perfectly straight. It is best to make
these cuts with a band saw, but a stiff hobby knife blade drawn
along a straightedge can be used.
40  Face TE of Wing area where Aileron was cut out. Use a
1/4" x 3/4" x 25-3/4" Balsa strip. Sand flush with top, bottom and
tip of Wing.
41  Face LE of Aileron with 3/8" x 1/2 X 25-3/4" Balsa strip.
Sand flush with top and bottom surface of Aileron. Bevel LE of
Aileron as shown on Plans. Sand flush with ends of Aileron.
42  Face root end of Aileron and Wing with 1/16" balsa.
Note: Repeat Steps 13–42 and build the right wing half,
then continue with step 43.
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43  After both wing halves are built, it's time to join them.
Trial fit the wing halves together while blocking the wing tips up.
The wing tips should be blocked 1-3/8" at Rib 11 on each wing tip.
This will build-in the proper wing dihedral. Sand the wing roots
until you have a perfect fit around the edge top and bottom. The
strength of the wing depends on a very accurate fit. After the fit is
correct epoxy the two wing root halves together. Make sure that
both wing halves are at the same angle/pitch. Front Spars and
Trailing Edges should line up. Use tape and weights to keep the
wing halves aligned while the epoxy cures.
44  After wings are joined, epoxy the Lite-Ply Wing Joiner (WJ)
to the front Wing Spars between both Rib 2s. This should be an
accurate fit and may require sanding of the Wing Joiner to fit.
Note: The next step is critical to wing strength. If not done
correctly, your wing may fail in-flight. If you are unsure about what
to do, get experienced fiberglassing help.
45  Glass center section of wing Top and Bottom with 3
layers of 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and a slow cure laminating epoxy.
The three layers are different sizes as pictured here and shown on
the Plans. The smaller piece goes down first with the progressively
large pieces on top. Use just enough epoxy to wet-out the glass
cloth. Any extra epoxy will only add weight and little strength.
Note: Fiberglass the Wing top first. Use a hobby knife to trim off
the excess cloth when the epoxy starts to cure but still is a little
flexible. When the epoxy completely cures, you can turn the Wing
over and fiberglass the bottom side. After epoxy has cured, sand
over-hang flush with wing.
45  Using the Plans as a guide, Glue the 1/8" Lite-Ply Wing
Servo Frame (WS2) in place between Rib 6 and Rib 7 of each wing
half. WS2 rests on top of the bottom Rib Cap Strips. Trim the
Bracket along the inboard edge if necessary.
46  Glue the four 1/8" Lite-Ply WS3 pieces in place on each
WS2.
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Note: You can use an optional Molded Plastic Servo Mount or follow the next 3 steps to build the kit supplied Servo Mounts.
47  Wrap the HS85 Wing Servos with clear packing tape.
48  Use fine sandpaper to dull the surface of the tape that will
contact the Wing Servo Mount (WS1).
49  Use 5-minute Epoxy and glue the servo to the 1/16"
Plywood Servo Mount (WS1). Make one for the Left Wing and one
for the Right Wing.
50  Mount the Servo and WS1 assembly in WS2. Use #2 x 1/2"
Button Head Sheet Metal Screws.
51  Add an extension to the Servo Cable and route it through
the Ribs and out the hole in the Wing center sheeting.
52  Build a Frame around the Servo Mounts with 1/16" x 1/4"
Balsa Strips. Leave a slight gap between Frame and Mount for
covering.
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53  Cut a "T" shaped slot in the LE of the Ailerons like the foreground Aileron in the picture. This slot should be just big enough
to slide the Control Horn in. Take your time and avoid damage to
the Aileron. The holes on the Control Horn should line up with the
Aileron LE.
54  Epoxy the Control Horn in the "T" slot. Also glue a scrap of
Balsa in the slot to fill slot gap.
Note: You may want trim the Control Horns where it will contact
the Wing on full down deflection.
55  After you have the Control Horns installed, fill and sand the
LE of the Ailerons to fill any gaps around the horns.
56  The Wing is now finished and should look like the Wing
pictured here. You will need the Wing during some steps in construction of the Fuselage. Note: Your wing should weigh about 16
oz. at this point.
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Fuselage Construction
57  Build the Tail Wheel Bracket with 1/8" Lite-Ply parts TWB1,
TWB2, and TWB3. Use Epoxy to glue parts together while being
careful not to get Epoxy in the laser cut grove of TWB1 and TWB2.
Make sure the arrows on all three parts point in the same direction
which is the top edge.
58  After epoxy has cured, drill out grove between TWB1 and
TWB2 with a 7/64" drill bit.
59  Build the three Landing Gear Bracket sub-assemblies from
the 1/8" Lite-Ply parts LGB1 through LGB7. See photo here and
Plans for guidance. Use epoxy for gluing parts. These sub-assemblies fit very snug together and to the fuselage sides, so care should
be used to clean off all excess epoxy that squeezes out of joints.
60  Glue laser cut 1/8" balsa Fuselage Sides FS1, FS2, and FS3
together over the Plans. Don't forget the wax paper, so the parts
can be removed from Plans afterwards. Use a straightedge to make
sure top edge is straight. Make two.
Important: The next step is critical. The Fuselage Side Doubler
must be aligned with the Balsa Fuselage Side along the top edge,
front edge, and wing saddle edge. If they are not in perfect alignment, it may be impossible to build a true fuselage. Make sure you
make a left and a right side.
61  Glue a 1/8" Lite-Ply Fuselage Side Doubler FSD to the inside
of each Balsa Fuselage Side using the Plans as a guide for placement.
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62  Mark front edge of Tail Wheel Bracket on Fuselage insides.
63  Add 1/8" sq. balsa Sticks to the inside of Fuselage Sides top
and bottom from Lite-Ply Fuselage Doubler to front edge of Tail
Wheel Bracket. On the Fuselage bottom edge, leave a 1/16" gap
between the 1/8" sq. Balsa Sticks and the Fuselage Doubler, for the
Air Outlet Top Sheeting.
64  Glue a 1/16" x 1/4" Balsa Fuselage Brace on the inside of
each Fuselage Side at both locations shown on the Plans.
Motor, Fire Wall and Battery Tray Options: Use FW1A, FW2A
and FW3A in the forward position shown on the Plans for a Jeti
Phasor 45/3. Use FW1B and FW2B in the rear position shown on the
Plans for an Astro Cobalt 25 motor with offset Gearbox. Use FW1C
and FW2C in the forward position shown on the Plans for an Astro
Brushless 05 Geared Motor. Your motor choice will determine which
Fire Wall and fire wall position you will use when you glue the Fuselage halves together. You may want to lay your Motor and Mount
over the Plans to help you determine which Fire Wall and location
to use. The Motor should be located so that the center line of the
Motor Shaft is 3/4" below the Fuselage top edge, and the prop back
plate should be 3-1/4" from the front edge of the Fuselage.
65  Select the correct Fire Wall option. If you will be using the
rear Fire Wall location, you will have to trim the Lite-Ply Battery Tray
(BT) along the engraved marks near the front as shown here.
Note: Use Steps 80–82 on page 17 for reference.
66  Trial fit 1/8" Lite-Ply Fire Wall (FW1), Battery Tray (BT), All
three Landing Gear Brackets (LGB) Sub Assemblies, LGB3, Receiver/
Battery/Servo Tray (TBST), and Fuselage Former (FF1) between the
Fuselage Sides. Check all joints for fit and location using Plans as a
guide. Note where each part contacts each other. Disassemble so
you can add epoxy to joints in next step. Note: You will be using
only Fire Wall FW1A, FW1B or FW1C in this step. FW2 and FW3 will
be added later. There should be a 1/8" gap between FW1A, B or C
and the front edge of the Battery Tray (BT).
67  Use 30 minute epoxy to glue all the Lite-Ply parts listed in
the previous step together. Check that everything is square.
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68  Glue 1/8" Balsa Fuselage Former (FF2) and Lite-Ply Tail
Wheel Bracket (TWB) assembly between Fuselage Sides. Glue rear
of Fuselage Sides together. Make sure the slot in the TWB lines
up vertically with the slot in the Fuselage Side. Position Fuselage
upside-down over Plans and check for straightness as this step is
done. Note: You can use CA for the Fuselage Former and rear of
Fuselage Sides, but use epoxy for TWB.
69  Using 5 minute Epoxy, Glue 4 Lite-Ply Wing Bolt Mounts
(WBM) together in a Stack. Make 2 of these WBM Stacks, one
for each side of the Fuselage. Lightly sand the two flat edges of
the Stacks after the Epoxy is set, so that they will fit tight to the
Fuselage Side and FF1 in the next step.
70  Use 5 minute Epoxy to glue these WBM Stacks on each
side of the fuselage and against FF1. Follow Plans for location and
angle.
71  Position the Wing on the Fuselage Wing Saddle Area. Make
sure the Wing is all the way forward against LGB6 and square with
the Fuselage. You can sand the Wing Saddle if needed to get a good
fit. The Fuselage and Wing should be top-side-up for the next step.
72  Drill the 2 holes for the Wing Dowels through rear Landing
Gear Bracket (LGB5/LGB6) and into the Wing Joiner (WJ) from the
front. You will need to use a long bit or an extension on your drill.
There are pilot holes in LGB5 for locating the holes.
73  Remove the wing and Epoxy the 2 Birch Wing Dowels in
the Wing Joiner (WJ). Leave about 7/16" of the Dowels sticking out
of the WJ.
74  Position the wing back on the Fuselage. The Wing and
Fuselage should be top-side-up for the next step.
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75  Use string or ruler and make sure the wing is square to the
fuselage by checking the distance between the Fuselage Tail and
each Wing Tip.
76  With the wing held securely in position, Drill a 3/16" from
the top through the WBMs and Wing. Be careful not to split out the
bottom of the WBM or Wing.
77  Remove wing and drill wing holes out with a 1/4" bit.
78  Tap each WBM for a 1/4-20 Nylon Bolt. Use Thin CA to
harden the threads cut in the wood WBM and then clean out the
threads with the Tap a second time.
Optional: You may use a 1/4-20 Blind Nut instead of Tapping the
WMB. Drill the WBM out to fit the Blind Nut. It may be necessary to
trim off part of the Blind Nut flange.
79  Glue on 1/8" Lite-Ply Servo Tray Doublers (STD).
Motor Options: Each motor option uses a different firewall and
motor mount option. Follow Step 80 if you will be using a Phasor
Brushless 45/3 motor and aluminum mount. Follow Step 81 if
you will be using an Astro Cobalt 25 geared motor and aluminum
mount. Follow Step 82 if you will be using an Astro Brushless 05
Geared motor and supplied plywood mount.
80  Phasor 45/3 Mounting. Epoxy 1/8" Lite-Ply FW2A between
the Battery Tray (BT) front edge and FW1A's rear side, then Epoxy
1/8" Lite-Ply FW3A in place. Epoxy a 1/4" wide strip of 1/8" Lite-Ply
to each Fuselage Side and against the front of the Fire Wall. Mount
the Aluminum Motor Mount to the front of the Fire Wall with 3
Socket Head Bolts and Blind Nuts. Center Mount side-to-side. Mount
should be located vertically so that the center line of the Motor
Shaft is 3/4" below Fuselage top edge. Trial fit the Motor in the
Mount. Go to Step 83.
81  Astro Cobalt 25 Geared Mounting. Epoxy 1/8" Lite-Ply
FW2B between the Battery Tray (BT) front edge and FW1B's rear
side. Epoxy a 1/4" wide strip of 1/8" Lite-Ply to each Fuselage Side
and against the front of the Fire Wall. Mount the Aluminum Motor
Mount to the front of the Fire Wall with 3 Socket Head Bolts and
Blind Nuts. Center Mount side-to-side. Mount should be located
vertically so that the center line of the Motor Shaft is 3/4" below
Fuselage top edge. Trial fit the Motor in the Mount. Go to Step 83.
82  Astro Brushless 05 Geared. Epoxy FW2C between the
Battery Tray (BT) front edge and FW1C's rear side. Use Epoxy to
glue Astro Motor Mount Lite-Ply pieces AM1, AM2 (2), AM3 (2) and
Aircraft Plywood AM4 (2) to Fire Wall. Use picture and plans for
reference. Epoxy Aircraft Plywood AM5 to back of AM4s. Trial fit the
Motor in the Mount. Go to Step 83.
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83  Drill two 1/4" holes in the Aluminum Landing Gear. The
holes should be 2" apart centered side-to-side and 1/8" Forward
of center. Note: The tapered edge of the Landing Gear is the rear
edge.
84  Position the Landing Gear on the Fuselage bottom and
mark the hole locations on the Landing Gear Bracket LGB3. Remove
Gear and drill the two holes with a 3/16" bit.
85  Tap each hole for a 1/4-20 Nylon Bolt. Use Thin CA to
harden the threads cut in the wood LGB and then clean out the
threads with the Tap a second time.
Optional: You may use a 1/4-20 Blind Nut instead of Tapping the
LGB. Drill the LGB out to fit the Blind Nut. It may be necessary to
trim off part of the Blind Nut flange.
86  Refer to the Picture above and the Plans for this step. Fit
the 1/2" Balsa Triangles between the LGB1 and the front of the
Fuselage. You will have to taper the Triangles as pictured on the
Plans. Sand the Triangles flush with the Fuselage bottom.
87  Set the Landing Gear in place on the Landing Gear Bracket
as a guide/spacer.
88  Sheet the bottom of the Fuselage Front with 1/8" Balsa
cross-grain from the Landing Gear to the front edge of the Fuselage. Later you may want to back up the front edge of the sheeting
with a second piece of 1/8" Balsa. This will give you a little more
material to work with when you round the corners of the Fuselage
for the Cowl. Wait until you have the Hatch built and in place
before you start to round the corners and fit the Cowl.
89  Glue the Lite-Ply Turtle Deck Former TDF1 in place on RBST.
TDF1 should slant back 30º. Use the laser cut 60º Gauge as an aid.
90  Glue 1/8" Balsa Turtle Deck Formers TDF2, TDF3, TDF4 and
TDF5 in place on rear Fuselage top. Use the Plans for location. TDF4
goes above FF2.
91  Add 1/8" sq. Balsa Stringers between TDF's. Note: the two
top Stringers go all the way back to TDF5 and the two lower Stringers end at TDF4.
92  Sand Stringers flush with front of TDF1.
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93  Glue 1/8" sq. x 1" Balsa scraps on top of Fuselage Side
between TDF1 and TDF2, TDF2 and TDF3, TDF3 and TDF4. These
pieces should be inset 1/16" from the outside of the Fuselage side.
Check top view on Plans for location. These scraps will support the
Turtle Deck Sheeting (TDS) when it is glued in place.
94  Glue the laser cut 1/16" Balsa Turtle Deck Sheeting (TDS)
along the fuselage top edge. The lower front corner of TDS should
be flush with TDF1. The sheeting has been cut with extra material
along the front edge and will be sanded flush with the front of the
TDF1.
95  Use a hot damp cloth to wet the outside surface of Turtle
Deck Sheeting. This will make it easier to bend around the curve of
the Turtle Deck Formers without cracking the sheeting.
96  Turn the Fuselage over and hold the Sheeting against the
Formers while using CA to glue the Sheeting to the Formers and
Stringers.
97  Sand Turtle Deck Sheeting flush with the top of Turtle Deck
Formers and Stringers and flush with front of TDF1.
98  Glue the laser cut 1/4" Balsa Turtle Deck Top (TDT) on top
of the Turtle Deck Formers and Turtle Deck Sheeting. Line up front
edge with TDF1. The rear end of TDT should just contact the top
edge of the Fuselage Sides 5-1/8" from the tail.
99  Carve/Sand the Turtle Deck Top so that it blends into the
curve of the Turtle Deck Sheeting. Sand front of TDT flush with
TDF1. Blend Turtle Deck Sheeting into the Fuselage Sides.
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100  Trim the rear of the cowl off 1-3/8" from the rear.
101  Cut out the inset area on cowl front for the motor shaft.
102  Cut out the air inlet on the bottom of the cowl. See
photo.
103  Trim the Canopy along the outside edge of the Canopy
Frame.
Note: You will use the Canopy and Cowl as a guide when you round
the corners of the Fuselage and Battery Hatch.
104  Glue the 1/8" Balsa Battery Hatch Halves (HC3A) and
(HC3B) together and sand joint smooth.
105  Glue the 1/8" Balsa Canopy Back Halves (HC4A) and
(HC4B) together and sand joint smooth.
106  Bevel the bottom edge of the HC4 30º
107  Spray some 3M 77 Spray Adhesive on BOTH sides of a
piece of wax paper that is a little larger than the Hatch Back HC4.
Position HC4 against Turtle Deck Former (TDF1) with the wax paper
sandwich between. About 1/2" of wax paper should cover the top
of the Fuselage Sides and RBST. The spray glue will hold HC4 in
place while you glue the Hatch Sides to it.
108  Glue the 1/4" Balsa Battery Hatch Sides (HC2) to the
Canopy Back (HC4).
109  Use a very small amount of CA in three places to tack
glue the Hatch Sides (HC2) on top of the Fuselage Sides. You will
need to separate the Hatch Sides from the Fuselage after you have
the Hatch sanded to shape, so go easy with the glue.
110  Glue 1/2" Balsa Triangles to the inside of both HC2s the
length of the higher part.
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111  Sand the Balsa Triangles flush with the top of HC2 and
glue the 1/8" Balsa Hatch Top (HC3) on top.
112  Sand the rear edge of HC3 to match the angle of HC2 at
the Cockpit Dash area.
113  Sheet the Cockpit area with 1/16" Balsa cross grain.
114  Sand Sheeting, Hatch Sides (HC2) and Hatch Top (HC3)
flush with Fuselage Sides.
115  Sand the Canopy Back (HC4) flush with the Turtle Deck
116  Start to shape the corners of the Fuselage front so that
the Cowl and Canopy fit correctly. This is harder to explain than it
is to do, so take your time and make it look nice. You will have to
work on the two bottom corners of the Fuselage and the two Hatch
corners together. The rear of the Hatch Top should be rounded
enough so that the canopy fits without any large gaps. The front
of the Hatch Top and especially the bottom front corners of the
Fuselage need to be rounded enough so that the canopy slides on
far enough for Prop/Cowl clearance. The bottom corners will be less
rounded as they get closer to the Landing gear area. You will have
to taper the Fuselage sides a little also.
117  Slide the Motor into the Motor Mount and check that you
will have enough clearance between the back of the prop and the
Cowl front.
118  Now is a good time to paint the Cowl. It can dry while you
are finishing the rest of the Fuselage and hooking up the controls.
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119  Carefully separate the Hatch assembly for the Fuselage
and glue the 1/8" Lite-Ply Hatch Front HC1 in place on the bottom
front of the hatch. You may need to sand it a little for a perfect fit.
120  Glue the 1/8" Lite-Ply Rubber Band Attachment Bracket
HC5 to the bottom of the Hatch. Check Plans for location. You may
need to sand it a little for a perfect fit.
121  Check your progress. This is how your Fusion Fuselage
should look at this step. Now it's time to install the Stabilizer,
Elevator, Fin and Rudder. Note: Fuselage parts should weigh about
10 oz. at this point.
122  Before you glue the Stabilizer on the Fuselage, you
should iron a strip of covering on the Stabilizer TE and the LE of the
Elevator. Bolt the Wing on the Fuselage before the next step.
123  Position and epoxy the Horizontal Stabilizer on the rear
of the Fuselage. Use the Plans as a guide. You will have to trim the
point of the Stabilizer's Leading Edge to fit against the back of the
Turtle Deck. Check that there will be room for the Elevator's Joiner
Wire to fit in front of the Vertical Fin's Tail Post when it is glue
against the rear of the Fuselage. Note: You should check that the
Stabilizer is square with the Wing and Fuselage and sight from the
rear to check that it is level with the Wing.
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124  Hinge the Elevator to the Stabilizer with CA and 6 CA
Hinges.
125  Glue the Vertical Fin on top of the Stabilizer/Fuselage
and into the slot of the Turtle Deck. You will need to trim the front
of the Fin for a good fit in the Turtle Deck slot. The Fin tail post fits
tight against the rear of the Fuselage. Note: Check that the Fin is
lined up with the Fuselage and perpendicular to the Stabilizer.
126  Fit 3 CA Hinges for the Rudder and Fin. You should NOT
glue the Rudder Hinges in place until after you have your Fusion
covered. The bottom Hinge should be located so that it will be
under part of the Control Horn.
127  Bend the tail wheel leg from 3/32" Music Wire using the
Plans a guide.
128  Mount the 1-1/4" Mini Lite Tail Wheel using a Wheel
Collar.
129  Locate the 1/8" Nylon Steering Arm.
130  Hold the Nylon Steering Arm in the rear slot in the Fuselage while sliding the Tail Wheel Leg into position from the bottom.
Tighten the socket head bolt on the Arm to retain the Wheel Leg.
131  Mount the 1/2A Nylon Control Horn on the Rudder. The
Horn should be placed about 1/16" below the Steering Arm.
132  Cut and bend a Threaded Pushrod with Nylon Kwik Link
to fit between the outer hole on the control horn and the outer hole
on the Nylon Steering Arm. Use a "Z" bend for the forward end.
Check the Plan's top and side view of the Fuselage for placement.
133  Install Elevator Control Horn.
134  Install the Rudder and Elevator Servos as shown on Plans.
The Servos should be up-side-down. The top picture on page 25
shows the Servos in place.
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135  Make up a Pushrod for the Rudder and Steering Control
and another one for the Elevator Control. Use the 2-56 Threaded
Pushrod wire, 5/16" Balsa Stick, Braided Fish Line and C/A.
136  Cut 5/16" sq. Balsa Pushrod Sticks to length shown on
Plans.
137  Tapper each end of the Pushrod as shown on the Plans.
Check Plans for which side and direction to tapper.
138  Measure and bend 2-56 Threaded Wire. Use the top and
side view of the Fuselage as a guide.
139  Trial fit Pushrod assembles for length and clearance. It
easiest to slide them in from the top Battery Tray area.
140  Glue Threaded Wire to Balsa Pushrods and wrap with
Braided Fishing Line. Soak Line with Thin C/A.
141  Install Pushrods. Connect Pushrods to outer holes in
Servo Arms and Elevator Control Horn. Connect the Rudder and
Steering Arm Pushrod to the inner hole on the Steering Arm. This
should give full deflection to the Rudder.
142  Check clearance of both Pushrods with each other and
Fuselage. Make sure there is no binding through full travel in each
direction. This is a tight fit, so double check. You can make adjustments by changing the bends in the Threaded Wire.
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143  Your Control Pushrods should look like this. Don't forget
to install the Servo Arm Screws and snap the Kwik Links closed.
144  Route the Servo Wires through the holes just behind the
Turtle Deck Former TDF1.
145  Glue 1/16" Balsa Sheeting between Fuselage sides to
form the Air Exit Top.
146  Sand the rear edge of the sheeting flush with the Fuselage Bottom.
147  Sheet the bottom of the Fuselage from the rear of the Air
Exit to the tail with 1/16" Balsa Sheeting (cross grain).
148  Sand/shape Bottom Sheeting to blend into Air Exit and
flush with the Fuselage Sides.
149  Mount Wing on Fuselage and add 1/16" Balsa scraps
between Wing TE and Bottom Sheeting along the Air Exit sides.
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150  Install the motor on the Fuselage.
151  Fit the painted Cowl and secure it to the Fuselage using
four #4 x 1/2" Button Head Sheet Metal Screws. Check that the
Cowl opening is centered on the Motor Shaft.
152  Test fit the Prop and Spinner Nut.
153  Drill out holes for 1/8" Dia. Axle Shafts and Install Axles.
154  Mount the main Landing Gear Legs on the Fuselage.
155  Mount 2-3/4" Feather Lite Main Wheels on Axles with
1/8" Wheel Collars.
156  Trim/fit the optional pilot figure and paint. You will glue
the pilot in place after you have covering on the Hatch cockpit area.
A trimmed 1/7 Scale Sportsman Pilot, from Hanger 9, is a good
choice for Fusion.
157  Use a Rubber Band to hold the Canopy to the Fuselage.
It should be tight enough to hold the hatch down, yet still allow
you to lift the Hatch up and to the side for access. Loop the Rubber
Band through the bottom of the Hatch and hook it on the back
of the Battery Tray. The included #33 Rubber Band will work very
well. You should check this Band before flight and replace is weak
or broken.
158  Mount the Wing on the Fuselage. Tape the Ailerons to
Wing and the Rudder to the Fin with a little masking tape. Stand
back and admire your work, an ARF will never look this good.
Maybe you should take a picture while your at it. Your Fusion
should look like the one pictured here.
159  Check your Fusion's balance side-to-side. If one Wing Tip
is heavier, glue a balancing weight in the other Wing Tip.
FUSION - FINISHING
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160  Disassemble Model and remove Pushrods. Fill any nicks
and dings with light weight filler. Do a final sand with 220 sand
paper.
161  The Iron-on Covering will stick better to the Fiberglassed
center section of the Wing if you give it light coat of Balsarite or SIG
Dope.
162  Vacuum the model to remove any Balsa dust. Use a Tack
Cloth to remove any remaining dust.
163  Cover your Fusion with Iron-on Plastic Covering like
MonoKote or Ultracoat. Fusion will require about 2 rolls of covering
with a little planning. Use the drawing on page 30 and 31 to plan
your covering design. When you have finished your covering, return
to Step 164 below.
164  Once you have your Fusion covered you can glue the Pilot
and Canopy to the Hatch. Use R/C-56 Canopy Glue for both. Leave
the rear of the Canopy to overlap the Fuselage Turtle Deck about
3/16". This will keep the Hatch centered on the Fuselage. Use Tape
to hold the Canopy in place while glue dries.
165  After the Canopy glue is dry, trim or sand the bottom of
the Canopy flush with the bottom edge of the Hatch.
166  You can use trim tape or mask and paint the edge of the
Canopy to cover the glue area.
Note: Build your battery packs to fit Fusion. The prototypes use 3
rows of sub-Cs standing on end as pictured here. We have flown
Fusion with CP1700, RC2000 and RC2400. Other cell arrangements
may work also.
167  Add 2 strips of self-adhesive Velcro Hooks to top of the
Battery Tray and loop a Velcro Battery Strap through the slots on
the side of the Battery Tray.
168  Install your Receiver, Switch and Receiver Battery with
Velcro and Rubber Band. Refer to Plans for Placement.
169  Connect the Rudder and Elevator Servo Wires to the
Receiver. Connect the Y-Harness for the Ailerons to the Receiver.
170  Reinstall the Motor, Cowl, Prop and Spinner Nut.
171  Install the Motor Speed Control and connect the Speed
Control to the Motor and Receiver.
FUSION - FINISHING
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172  Install Aileron/Wing Servos. Run Servo Wires through
Ribs and hole in Wing Center Sheeting. We recommend that you
twist any long Servo Wires to reduce radio interference.
173  Hinge Ailerons to Wing using 6 C/A Hinges for each.
174  Cut and "Z" bend 2 Threaded Pushrods. Each Aileron
Pushrod connects to the Servo with the "Z" bend and Aileron
Control Horn with a Nylon Kwik Link.
175  Hinge Rudder to Fin using C/A and 3 C/A Hinges.
176  Reinstall Rudder and Elevator Control Horns.
177  Reinstall Tail Wheel and Steering Arm.
178  Reinstall Rudder/Steering Arm Pushrod and Elevator
Pushrod.
179  Reinstall Main Landing Gear assembly.
180  Connect Wing Servo Wires to the "Y" Harness and Mount
the Wing on the Fuselage.
Warning: Make Sure Motor Battery is NOT installed or connected
to Speed Control.
181  Turn Transmitter and Receiver ON. Check Control Surface
directions and throws. Use Initial setting listed below. If you use
a Computer Transmitter, these adjustment can be made from the
Transmitter. If you use a Standard Transmitter, you may have to
adjust the the throws by servo arm and control horn hole positions.
If you use a Transmitter without daul-rates, use the low settings to
start with.
Elevator:
Low 1/2" Up – 1/2" Down
High 5/8" Up – 5/8" Down
Aileron:
Low 1/4" Up – 1/4" Down
High 3/8" Up – 3/8" Down
Rudder:
Low 1-1/8" Left and Right
High 1-3/4" Left and Right
182  Turn Receiver OFF
FUSION - FINISHING
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183  Place Motor Battery Pack on Battery Tray. Fasten Battery Strap
around Battery Pack and replace Hatch.
184  Check front-to-back balance with Fusion inverted. The Balance
point is 2-7/8" back from the Wing LE. Balance Fusion by moving the Motor
Battery Pack location. Once you have Fusion balanced, mark the location of
the Motor Battery Pack on the Battery Tray.
185  Make sure that Prop is balanced and secured to the Motor.
KEEP CLEAR OF THE PROP! Secure the airplane before you connect the
Motor Battery to the Speed Control. Follow your Motor and Speed Control
directions on proper arming and disarming procedures.
186  Test run the Motor. Make sure the Prop is turning in the correct
direction.
Note: This completes the construction phase of your Fusion. It's time to
charge up the batteries and head to the flying field.
FLYING FUSION
Flying Qualities
Fusion was designed to fly a little faster than the typical sport model. The
airframe is very clean and the wing airfoil is thinner. This allows Fusion to do
large pattern style aerobatic maneuvers as well as general sport type flying.
Fusion's thin, nearly-symmetrical, progressive airfoil allows for a wide speed
range. Fusion flies smoothly and looks majestic in the air because of its
well balanced controls and large size for an electric. Fusion is a great flying
electric-powered model that flies predictably.
Avoid letting your airspeed drop to low or making sudden control inputs. Fusion is not a "Floater" or "Fun-Fly" type airplane. Fusion is not neutrally stable
or self correcting like a R/C trainer and should not be flown by a beginner R/C
pilot.
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First Flight
Fusion is a typical tail dragger and will require variable right rudder input to
maintain directional control on takeoff. Remember to takeoff into the wind.
Point Fusion straight down the runway and increase the throttle gradually.
As your Fusion gains speed, relax the up elevator and the tail wheel will come
up. Let your Fusion gain full speed and then gently add a little up elevator.
Fusion should lift off in a gentle climb. Gain a safe altitude before turning into
the traffic pattern.
After you have reached safe altitude throttle back to about 2/3 power. Adjust
the trim settings to maintain straight and level flight. Take it easy with your
Fusion for the first few flights and allow yourself to get use to the handling
qualities.
After flying around for a minute you should practice slow flight and landing
approaches. See how your Fusion handles at low speeds then add power to
test how well your Fusion will climb.
Landing
When you have used about half of your estimated flying time you should
land and check your model over. Fusion is a very clean aircraft and will take a
little longer to slow down. Use a longer landing approach but don't let your
airspeed drop to low. Use elevator and throttle input to control how fast your
Fusion settles to the runway.
Build Flight Time and Experience
After a few flights you can carefully build your experience with Fusion's capabilities. Learn how your Fusion behaves in different conditions. Build your
experience carefully so you don't surprise yourself by attempting a maneuver
that Fusion was not design for and finding you have run out of time, altitude
or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate and planed. Experiment at
least a couple of mistakes high.
Before First Flight
Enjoy your Fusion and Fly Safe
You should install the motor battery AND give the airplane a check-out. You
should review the Safety Precautions on page 2. Have another adult person
help you conduct a radio range check with and without the motor running.
Taxi up and down the runway at low speeds to get a feeling of how Fusion
handles on the ground. You should hold a little up elevator to help hold the
tail on the ground.
Good luck and we hope you enjoy flying your new Fusion for years to come.
We would enjoy any comments or suggestions you have about Fusion. You
can send your comment to: info@electroflying.com.
For the latest Fusion updates and plan or manual corrections, visit our
web site at: http://www.electroflying.com. Look for the KIT UPDATES
button.
FUSION - FINISHING
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Use this scale drawing to develop
your covering layout. You may want
to make copies first so you can try
out several ideas. You can use the
copy of the Fusion lettering to cut
out the lettering for your model
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FUSION - FINISHING
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Inches
1
2
3
4
5
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FUSION - WING PLAN
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3/8" x 3/4" Balsa
Leading Edge Shaped to Match Profile
1/16" Balsa Sheeting
WJ
Fill Gap Between 3”
1/8" Lite-Ply Wing Joiner
Sheeting and Leading
Epoxy in Place After Wings
Edge with Scrap
Have Been Joined
1/4" Hardwood Dowl
Wing Mounting Dowl
Epoxy in Hole
1/16" Balsa
Tapered Sub Leading Edge
Taper from 1/2" at Rib 2
to 7/16" at Rib 12
SW
1/8" Lite-Ply Shear
Web Fit Between Top
& Bottom Spar and
Ribs 1 & 2
1/16" Hard Balsa
Shear Web on Front & Back of Spar
from Rib 2 thru Rib 4 (Vertical Grain)
1/4" Balsa Filler
Fit Between Top and Bottom Spar
and Flush with Front of Spars
R6
WS1
1/16" x 1/4" Balsa
Frame Around Servo
Bracket Edges on
Bottom of Wing
When Joining Wing Halves,
Prop Each Wing Tip Up
1-3/8" Under Spar at
Rib 11 for Correct Dihedral
WS1
1/16" Plywood Mini
Servo Bracket
WS3
1/8" Lite-Ply Squares
Glue on Servo Frame for
Screw Support
WS2
1/16" Balsa Sheeting
Fill gap Between 3”
Sheeting and Trailing
Edge Sheeting with Scrap
2"
1/16 x 2-1/ ng
Wi
Trailing Edge- Aile
m
Top and Botto All Shee
Wing After
1/4" Hole
Wing Bolt Hole
1/32" Plywood
Glue Wing Bolt Reinforcement
Disc on Bottom of Wing Before
Covering
Balsa Filler Wedge
Between Top & Bottom
Sheeting for Control Horn
1/8" Square Balsa
Place Under Wing to Build In
Correct Wing Washout
1/16" Balsa
Face Ends of Aileron & Wing
with Balsa After Aileron Is
Cut Free From Wing
Balsa Filler Wedge
Between Top & Bottom
Sheeting for Wing Bolt
1/4" Balsa Filler
Fit Between Top and Bottom Spar
and Flush with Front of Spars
SW
1/8" Lite-Ply Fit Between Top &
Bottom Spar and Ribs 1 & 2
Important
Wings Are Built Top-Side-Up Over Plans
Ribs Rest on Main Spar and Front of Trailing
Edge Sheeting During Construction
1/16" Balsa
Shear Web
Vertical Grain
1/16" x 3" Balsa
Wing Sheeting
Balsa Filler Wedge
Between Top and
Bottom Sheeting
R9
WJ
1/8" Lite-Ply
Wing Joiner
R10
R11
R12
1/4" Hardwood Dowl
Wing Mounting Dowl
1/16" x 1/4"
Rib Cap Strips Top an
Ribs Cut to Fit Between
Sheeting and Trailing E
WS2
1/8" Lite Ply
Servo Frame
WS1 & WS2
1/16" Balsa 3" Wide Curved Wing
Sheeting Cut To Fit Between Spar
and Trailing Edge Sheeting
1/2" Hole
Aileron Wire Exit
R8
1/16" Balsa
Shear Web on Back of Spar
From Rib 1 Thru Rib 5
Vertical Grain
R7
R5
Important
Rib 1 & 2 Should Tilt 2º
Away from Wing Root to
Allow for Dihedral When
Wing Halves Are Joined
HS85BB Servo
R4
R3
R2
R1
1/4" Sq. Hard Balsa
Wing Spars
Top and Bottom Of Wing
1/16" Hard Balsa
Shear Webbing on Front of Spar from
Rib 1 thru Rib 9 Vertical Grain
1/4" Sq. Hard Balsa
Wing Spars Top and Bottom of Wing
Detail : Between R1 and R2
(Not to Scale)
1/32" Plywood Disc
1/4" x 20 Nylon Bolt
Wing Bolts (2)
1/8" Square Balsa
Place Under Wing to Build in
Correct Wing Washout
500+ Watt Sport Aerobatic Electric R/C Aircraft
Designed and Drawn By: Steven E. Pauley
© 2003, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Sheet 1 of 2
Wing Span: 57.5" Length: 43.5" Wing Area: 569 sq." Weight: 82–92 oz.
Wing Loading: 20.8–23.2 oz. per sq. ft. 16 Cells 2400mAh @ 34 amps Max.
Total Input Watts: 600 or 103 watts per lb. Prop: 11" x 8.5" @ 7500 rpm
Top Speed: 60 mph Recommended Engine: Astro Cobalt 25 Geared or
Jeti Phasor 45/3 Brushless Radio: 4 Channel Servos: 4 Hitec HS85BB
Rev.#3 4/17/2003
FUSION - WING PLAN
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Balsa Wing Tip Block
Sand Flush With Wing Tip Airfoil Shape
(Hollow for Weight Reduction)
1/16" x 3" Balsa
Leading Edge Wing Sheeting
Top and Bottom - Cut to Fit
Between Leading Edge and
Main Spar Center Line
3/8" x 3/4" Balsa
Leading Edge
Shape to Match
Airfoil Profile
L
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1/16" x 2-1/2" Balsa Sheeting
Trailing Edge Sheeting
1/4" Sq. Hard Balsa
Main Spar Top and Bottom
1/16" x 1/4" Balsa Strips
Rib Cap Strips Cut to Fit on Ribs 5
Through 12 Between Leading and
Trailing Edge Sheeting
1/16" Balsa Sheeting
Leading Edge Sheeting
3/8" x 1/2" Balsa Strip
Install Aileron Leading Edge Face
After Aileron Has Been Cut from Wing
- Sand to Follow Wing Airfoil and Bevel
to Match Drawing
Hitec HS85BB
Aileron Servo
Detail : Between R6 and R7
(Not to Scale)
R12
R11
R10
R9
Balsa
nd Bottom of
n Leading Edge
Edge Sheeting
1/16" Balsa
Sub Leading Edge
Taper from 1/2" at Rib 2
to 7/16" at Rib 12
1/16"Hard Balsa
Shear Web Vertical Grain
WS3
1/8" Lite-Ply
Servo Hatch Screw
Supports (4)
1/4" x 3/4" Balsa Strip
Trailing Edge Face
C/A Hinges
Use 7 Hinges Per Aileron
1/4" x 3/4" Balsa Strip
Install Trailing Edge Face After
Aileron Has Been Cut from Wing
- Sand to Follow Wing Airfoil
WS2
1/8" Lite-Ply
Servo Mount Frame
Control Horn
Epoxy Horn Base in
"T" Shaped Slot Cut In
Front Edge of Aileron
WS1
1/16" Plywood or Molded
Plastic Surface Servo
Mount for Mini Servos
2-3/32"
Note: After Wing Is Sheeted , Cut Aileron Free
from Wing at These Two Locations Using a Band
Saw or Hobby Knife and Straight Edge - Cut
Should Be Perpendicular to Rib Center Line and
Parallel to Wing Trailing Edge
1-1/2"
Use These Marks to
Align Ribs
3/8" x 1/2" Balsa Strip
Aileron Leading Edge Face
Balsa
g Sheeting m
eron Is Cut fro
eting Is Done
2 oz. Fiberglass Cloth
Wing Joint Reinforcement After Joining Wing Halves
Laminate 3 Layers of Cloth on
Top and Bottom with Epoxy
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
R7
R8
FUSION - FUSELAGE PLAN
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NOTE: Top View Is Shown With Battery
Hatch and Canopy Removed
1/8" x 1/4" Lite-Ply Scrap
Fire Wall Stops
BT
1/8" Lite-Ply
Slots For Vecro Battery Strap
TDF1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Turtle Deck Front Former
Glue Small Balsa Scrap Under Tip to
Keep Rubber Band From Slipping Off
Rubber Band
Attachment Bracket
BT
1/8" Lite-Ply
Motor Battery Area
Speed Control Area
Laser Cut Lite-Ply
Motor Mount
FW1A, FW2A & FW3A
1/8" Lite-Ply Fire Walls
1/2" Balsa Triangles
Trim Flush with Bottom of Fuselage Side
Before Sheeting Bottom
1/2" Balsa Triangle
Fire Wall Braces
FD1 1/8" Lite-Ply Fuselage Doublers
Receiver Switch
Can Be Mounted Here
Fire Wall Options
Use FW1A, FW2A & FW3A in the Forward Postion Shown
Above for a Direct Drive Motor Like the Phasor 45/3.
Use FW1B & FW2B in the Rear Postion Shown Below for
a Motor Like the Astro Flight 25 with Offset Gearbox.
Aluminum
Spinner Nut
HC1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Hatch Front
HC2
1/4" Balsa Battery
Hatch Sides (2)
STD
1/8" Lite-Ply
Servo Tray Doublers
RBST
1/8" Lite-Ply Receiver,
Battery & Servo Tray
1/8"
(4 f
Canopy Rear & Front Turtle Deck
Former Are Angled Back at 30º
1/2" Balsa Triangle
Battery Hatch Corner Fillet
HC3A & HC3B
1/8" Balsa
Battery Hatch Top
1/16" Balsa
Sheeting
3-1/4"
Custom Molded
Canopy
HC4A & HC4B
1/8" Balsa
Canopy Back
HC5
1/8" Lite-Ply Rubber Band
Attachment Bracket
Receiver
Switch
Receiver & Receiver
Battery Attached with
Velcro and Rubber Band
Canopy Re
Turttle Dec
TDF1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Turtle Deck Front Former
Custom Molded Cowl
1/
Motor Battery Area
3/4"
BT
1/8" Lite-Ply
LGB7
1/8" Lite-Ply
FSD 1/8" Lite-Ply Fuselage Side Doubler
LGB5
1/8" Lite-Ply
LGB6
1/8" Lite-Ply
Battery Hatch
Rubber Band
FF1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Former
LGB2
1/8" Lite-Ply
Wing Incidence +1º at Root
FW1B & FW2B
1/8" Lite-Ply Fire Walls
#4 x 1/2" Button Head Sheet
Metal Screew
2 On Each Side To Mount Cowl
11" x 8 1/2"
APC Electric Prop
LGB1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Speed Control Area
Astro Flight
Brushless .050 Geared
Cut Air Inlet in
Cowl for Cooling
FS1
1/8" Balsa Sheet
Fuselage Sides
1/2" Balsa Triangles
Trim Flush with Bottom of Fuselage
Side Before Sheeting Bottom
1/8" x 1/4" Lite-Ply Scrap
Fire Wall Stops
1/8" Balsa
Bottom Sheeting
FS2
1/8" Balsa Sheet
Fuselage Sides
LGB3
1/8" Lite-Ply
1/4" x 20
Nylon Bolts (2)
LGB4
1/8" Lite-Ply
WBM
1/8" Lite-Ply Wing Bolt Mounts
(4 for Each Side of Fuselage)
1/4" Dowel (2)
Glue in Wing Joiner
Balance Point
2-7/8" from Wing
Leading Edge
1/4" Hole (2)
Drill from Front Before
Bottom Is Sheeted
1/4" x 20
Nylon Bol
1/4" Balsa
Triangle
1/32" Plywood
NOTE: SIDE VIEW IS SHOWN WITH
LEFT SIDE REMOVED FOR CLARITY
Landing Gear
Aluminum
Use FW1A, FW2A & FW3A in the Forward Postion Shown
Here for a Direct Drive Motor Like the Phasor 45/3
2-3/4" Lite Wheels
Jeti Brushless
Phasor 45/3
Aluminum Motor
Mount
500+ Watt Sport Aerobatic Electric R/C Aircraft
Designed and Drawn By: Steven E. Pauley
© 2003, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Sheet 2 of 2
Wing Span: 57.5" Length: 45.3 " Wing Area: 569 sq." Weight: 82–92 oz.
Wing Loading: 20.8–23.2 oz. per sq. ft. 16 Cells 2400mAh @ 34 amps Max.
Total Input Watts: 600 or 103 watts per lb. Prop: 11" x 8.5" @ 7500 rpm
Top Speed: 60 mph Recommended Engine: Astro Cobalt 25 Geared or
Jeti Phasor 45/3 Brushless Radio: 4 Channel Servos: 4 Hitec HS85BB
Rev.#3 4/17/2003
Stabi
Elevat
Are Buil
& The
Ap
FUSION - FUSELAGE PLAN
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FF1
1/8" Lite-Ply
Former
NOTE: TOP VIEW IS SHOWN WITH TURTLE DECK
STRINGERS, SHEETING &TOP REMOVED FOR CLARITY
TDF2
1/8" Balsa
1/16" Balsa
Air Outlet Top
L
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1/8" x 1/8" x 3/4" Balsa
Turtle Deck Sheeting Supports – Glue on Top of
Fuselage Sides Between Each Turtle Deck Former
and 1/16" from Outside of Fuselage Side
TDF4
1/8" Balsa
TDF3
1/8" Balsa
Drill 7/64" Vertical Hole
in Tail Wheel Bracket
TWB 3
1/8" Lite-Ply Tail
Wheel Bracket
FS3
1/8" Balsa Sheet
Fuselage Sides
TDF5
1/8" Balsa
TWB1 & 2
1/8" Lite-Ply Tail Wheel Bracket
FR 3
1/4" Balsa
FR 2
1/4"x 1/2" Balsa
Cut to Fit Over Plan
1/4" x 1/2" Balsa
Cut to Fit Over Plan
TDS
1/16" Balsa Sheet Turtle Deck Sides
Glue to Sides of Turtle Deck Formers and
Then Sand Flush with Top of Formers
TDF2
1/8" Balsa
1/4"x 1/4" Balsa
Cut to Fit
All Fin & Rudder Parts Are
Made from 1/4" Balsa Stock
TDT
1/4" x 1-3/8" x 14-1/2" Balsa
Turtle Deck Top
Sand to Follow Curve of
1/16" Turtle Deck Sheeting
1/8" Balsa
Stringers
Fin Fits in Turttle
Deck Slot
TWB3
1/8" Lite-Ply Tail Wheel Bracket
TDF3
1/8" Balsa
STD
/8" Lite-Ply Servo
Tray Doublers
ilizer &
tor Tips
lt as One
en Cut
part
E
1/8" Steering Arm
ear Overlaps
ck by 3/16"
d Disc
D
1/4"x 1/2"Balsa
Vertical Stabilizer Tail Post
WBM
Lite-Ply Wing Bolt Mounts
for Each Side of Fuselage)
0
lt
O
TDF5
1/8" Balsa
1/16" Balsa
Fit Along Bottom Edge of
Fuselage Side
Pushrod Exit
FS3
1/8" Balsa Sheet
Fuselage Sides
1/16" x 1/4" Balsa
Fuselage Brace
1/8" Square Balsa
Fuselage Bottom Corner Fillet
1/4"x 1/4" Balsa
Cut to Fit
FR 1
1/4" Balsa
TDF4
1/8" Balsa
5/16" Square Hard Balsa
Push Rods
TWB1 & 2
1/8" Lite-Ply Tail Wheel Bracket
Glue Two Halves Together
FR 4
1/4" Balsa
Antenna Exit
FF2
1/8" Lite-Ply
Fuselage Former
1/16" Balsa
Fuselage Bottom Sheeting
1/16"x 1/4" Balsa
Fuselage Brace
3/32" Music Wire
Tail Wheel Leg Bent to Fit Tail
Wheel Bracket and Wheel
Rudder Pushrod Passes
Through Steering Arm Pivot
(Z-Bend)
1-1/4" Lite Wheel
1/16" Balsa
Air Outlet Top
SE2
1/4" Balsa
All Stabilizer & Elevator Parts Are
Made from 1/4" Balsa Stock
SE3
1/4" Balsa
1/4"x 1/4" Balsa
Cut to Fit
1/4" x 1/4" Balsa
Stabilizer Trailing
Edge Doubler
SE1
1/4" Balsa
1/4"x 1/2" Balsa
Cut to Fit Over Plan
SE6
1/4" Balsa
1/4"x 1/2" Balsa
Cut to Fit Over Plan
SE4
1/4" Balsa
Cut Elevator Halves Apart
After Music Wire Joiner Is
Glued in Place
3/32" Music Wire
Elevator Joiner Bent to Fit
Over Plan
SE5
1/4" Balsa
FUSION - INSTRUCTION MANUAL
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ElectroFlying, Inc.
http://www.electroflying.com
2547 83rd Court North, Minneapolis, MN 55444
763-560-5529 • info@electroflying.com
© 2003, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Rev.#5 4/26/2005