Pho voir/CDT Gironde

Gironde
oir/CDT
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BOR DEA UX
T
LE DROP
Sommary
BORDEAUX Page 3
Arcachon bay & the Médoc coast
Page 6
Wine tourisme
Page 13
Wanderings Page 17
UNESCO & heritage Page 20
Page 23
Events Page 28
Estuary
Contact :
Photo de couverture : Couple dans les vignes - Phovoir/CDT Gironde
Réalisé par le
Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Gironde.
Directeur de Publication : Jean-Marie Darmian, Président délégué du Comité
Départemental du Tourisme de la Gironde.
Rédaction : Les Pipelettes
Conception graphique et cartographie : E. Parent
Impression : Graphit’s
Anne QUIMBRE
Karin LABARDIN
+ 33 (0)5 56 48 68 16
+ 33 (0)5 56 48 91 27
k.labardin@tourisme-gironde.fr a.quimbre@tourisme-gironde.fr
© Phovoir/CDT Gironde
Bordeaux
“A Sunday morning on the Quais des Chartrons. The weather is good,
it’s a market day. People everywhere: along the stalls, on the quays,
roller-skating or cycling along the quays. Oyster farmers offer tasting
sessions: I wait for my oysters, bathed in sunshine, listening to a
small jazz orchestra. A holiday feeling.”.
Bordeaux is a rebirth – just like its quays given back to the Bordelais,
its river rediscovered, classical façades that have regained their fairness. A miracle of elegance that,
since 2007, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List: a listed area of 1,810 hectares, the 18thcentury heart of the city, the stalls quarter, the Mériadeck quarter and its 1970s buildings, and wet
docks. As well as a record number of 350 buildings listed as Historical Monuments.
Favourite
. 3:00 p.m.: the barge casts off
form the Quai de Queyries.
The camera is ready – we’re going to be dazzled! There, the
Pont de Pierre and the spires of Saint Michael’s Church,
then 18th-century Bordeaux, the Place de la Bourse laid out
by Gabriel, the Place des Quinconces; here, Les Chartrons,
the quarter formerly inhabited by wine merchants, today
home to antiquaries and artists.
Cruises with “Burdigala”, “Aliénor II”, and “Sorellina”.
Reservations via the Tourist Office web site
www.bordeaux-tourisme.com or via the Gironde Tourist
Board Tel. +33 (0)5 56 52 61 40
P. 3
Portrait
Michel Portos
the musketeer of Bouliac
The Saint-James,
3 place Camille Hostein,
33270 Bouliac.
Tel. +33 (0)5 57 97 06 00.
www.saintjames-bouliac.com.
M : €45 (lunch), €65, €132.
That’s clever
y break
a
d
e
e
r
h
t
a
lf
se
Allow your
l of the Gironde region.
to get to know the capita
pass for main
es a city tour, a free
The programme includ
vineyard with
a
nts, an escapade to
museums and monume
rneys on the
jou
ctical touch: five free
a tasting session. A pra
at the CIVB
g
tin
And a nice touch: a tas
city’s public transport.
m €105 in
fro
:
erte for 3 days / 2 nights
wine bar. Forfait Découv
.
nd
hotel. Valid all year rou
a double room in a 2-star
useums
The CAPC museum
Head for the m
Y / CIVB
© Philippe RO
its Gallery, and
e des Beaux Arts with
they’re free! The Musé
Marquet, etc.,
Corot, Matisse, Albert
paintings by Brueghel,
de building,
lan
co in the beautiful La
the Musée des Arts Dé
ine, and the
ita
qu
told at the Musée d’A
the history of Bordeaux
in a former
led
ntemporary art, instal
CAPC’s collections of co
fs from the colonies.
warehouse for foodstuf
e.com
www.bordeaux-tourism
ith...
Going away w
© CAPC
favourite
A cocooning break:
The best time to meet Michel Portos? In the morning, before the kitchen
rush: the chef of the Saint-James, holder of a Michelin star, voted Chef
of the Year 2012 by Gault et Millau, is a man in constant movement. He
has the tight physique of a marathon runner, mischievous eyes behind
slim glasses, and he admits to liking change and the ephemeral: ‘A dish
never remains on the menu for more than two months, and it never
returns. We have put together 380 recipes in five years!’ This Marseillais
draws inspiration from the countries that he crosses in a frenzy: Asia,
North Africa, Mexico, etc. A mixture of flavours that he uses to sprinkle
on his inventive and inspired cooking: watermelon with chorizo, foie gras
Moroccan-style, red kuri squash, wakame with sesame and caviar…
It causes a shudder to think that Michel was intended for another calling:
his father wanted him to become a chartered accountant, he dreamt of
motorcycles… It was his mother’s bouillabaisse that gave him a taste for
cooking. What a relief!
my choice is the Hôtel Particulier, a
brand new address in a classy 19thcentury house. Three rooms named for
musicians, 2 suites and 3 apartments,
all with a decor that is at once classic,
chic, and minimalist. Pascale Daney
and her daughter spoil me at breakfast
on the terrace and at the table d’hôtes.
Right in the heart of Old Bordeaux –
practical for tours and shopping!
From €160.
44 Rue Vital Carles.
Tel. +33 (0)5 57 88 28 80 –
www.lhotel-particulier.com
reak?
Time for a coffee b a
of
A
Oh, for the taste
one
can(n)elé (with as
st
“n” or or two, ju le
itab
you please). Inim it
,
and never equalled e
can recognis
ou
Y
.
x
u
ea
d
or
B
ry
u
ent
was born in 18th-c
g, soft inside,
in
ll
fi
s
it
,
pe
a
sh
cal
it by its cylindri
nd vanilla: it’s
a
m
ru
h
it
w
d
re
u
avo
crunchy outside, fl egg being used to “filter” wine,
of
all because of whites d yolks! Pick them up in all the
nuse
which left lots of u
éditions Féret,
best patisseriesys.tère nommé désir, Isabelle Bunisset,
m
Le cannelé, ce
2008
P.4
numental
every day at the CIVB* bar,they offer about thirty
wines priced at between €2 and €8 a glass. Snacks are
available – and the setting is first-class: a handsome
18th-century building given a minimalist makeover.
Become experts on the wines of Bordeaux!
3 Cours du XXX Juillet, Bordeaux –
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 00 43 47
*Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux
(Interprofessional Council for Bordeaux Wine)
©Bordeaux Mo
© CIVB
Go there with...
François, Anne and Ludo
Wine bar
©Assoair
A family outing:
roller-skating along the quays and the pedestrianised
streets in the heart of the city. Moreover, the kit is on
loan and an introductory session is provided. It’s on
the first Sunday of each month at 11:00 a.m.
www.assoair.com
Children
28 rue des Argentiers,
tal
in front of Bordeaux Monumen
lo is a
leading figure, Burdiga
Burdigalo awaits. A
asure
tre
in
st
ali
eci
sp
a
ren and
intcorsair, a friend to child
Sa
x:
gh historic Bordeau
rts,
hunts. Follow him throu
pa
ram
the
chael’s Basilica,
the
Pierre quarter, Saint Mi
all
for
ry
ste
my
ge offers a
Cailhau Gate… Each sta
d!
en
the
at
surprise
family to solve – with a
it.
vis
r
ou
€5 for a two-h
Bordeaux is amazing
Tourny
At the bottom of the Allées de
is a bronze relief map:
the city has another two. The relief maps were put in place
for
the use
of sight-impaired visitors, who, at the Tourist
Office, can also obtain a tourist guide in Braille. For visitors
who are mobility- and hearing-impaired, three city tours
are on offer. In addition to the “Tourisme et Handicap”
label, Bordeaux is the pilot city for the future “Destination
pour Tous” label, which aims to raise consciousness
amongst all the actors of the tourism sector.
A hearty appetite
Place de la Bourse, opposite the
ornamental pond.
In James’s footsteps:2-year-olds, with pictures to
a booklet just for 7-to-1
trail of
d crosswords. On the
colour in, charades, an
James.
int
on the Ways of Sa
James, a young pilgrim
guide
le
litt
a
t,
ge Departmen
Published by the Herita
.
l sections: €1
set out in 13 clever, playfu +33 (0)5 56 48 04 24
.
Tel
l,
nta
me
Bordeaux Monu
b site:
m the Tourist Office we
the
Other tours available fro
ed
ard
aw
y to have been
Bordeaux is the first cit
“Famille Plus” label.
Memo
ay of
- It’s the first Sund
rning,
the month. In the mo
the
at
e
blend art and win
or
z
jaz
a
:
Grand Théâtre
by
ed
low
fol
,
ert
nc
co
classical
x wine
a tasting of a Bordeau
appellation.
ss: €4.
Concert: €6. Tasting pa
20
85
00
56
5
Tel. +33 (0)
BAC
In the afternoon, take the in)
ora
mp
nte
Co
(Bus d’Art
s and
to visit ten gallerie
the
et
exhibitions and me
the
de
tsi
ou
artists. €5. Meet
the
in
sk
Kio
re
ltu
Bordeaux Cu
.
rny
Tou
Allées de
.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 79 39 56
On the second floor of the old Chamber
of Commerce building are a set of 18thcentury rooms with views over the Garonne:
Gabriel is THE restaurant for gourmands. The
kitchen is run by François Adamski, a winner for
the Bocuse d’Or, holder of the MOF (Meilleur
Ouvrier de France) title, trained at the Ritz and at
the Plaza Athénée. Dishes include products from
South-Western France: oysters from Cap Ferret,
caviar from Aquitaine, foie gras, all emphasised
by the proven talent of this Michelin-star holder.
Menu: from €50 to €95.
If you don’t want to break your piggy bank, head
for the Bistrot and its brasserie atmosphere on
the first floor – an excellent menu is on offer for
€28. You must book, because it’s packed!
10 Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 30 00 80 www.bordeaux-gabriel.fr
in the
- Go antique-hunting
about
s,
ire
ua
tiq
An
s
Village de
Rue
the
sixty shops set around
of
art
he
the
Notre-Dame, in
er.
art
qu
s
the Chartron
a day
- Give yourself half
cover
dis
s:
in the vineyard
tates
es
it
vis
,
appellations
ssé
cla
cru
nd
gra
ce
du
that pro
d
ne
-ow
wines, visit family
g
tin
tas
a
joy
castles, and en
the
te:
no
of
y
rth
session. Wo
tour,
“Best of Bordeaux Bus” ce
pri
a
h
Student special, wit
dgets
tailored to student bu
(€15).
eaux’s
Saturday morning in Bord
oldest gastronomic restaurant.
A studious atmosphere in the kitchens, which
revolve around Nicolas Frion, who was formerly
with Thierry Marx. Today’s lessons include cutting
up chickens, preparing suprêmes, staffing a
chicken quenelle. Yum… that casserole smells
delicious! Wednesday and Saturday, from 9:00
a.m. to 12:00 midday: €95 with a recipe booklet.
5 rue Montesquieu, Bordeaux –
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 79 10 10
Reservation via Bordeaux Saveurs
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 90 91 92
P. 5
t
s
a
o
C
c
o
d
é
M
e
h
t
&
Arcachon Bay
‘Seen from the sky, one could believe oneself to be in a faraway
land, for this labyrinth of sand, water, and forests calls forth
the natural beauties of another world. From giant sand dunes
to uninhabited islands, from the coastline of beaches that
served as HQ for surfers to the cute cabins of oyster farmers,
from coastal marshes to small fishing ports’.
The Bay is made up of 10 communes, almost 800 km2 of forest,
kilometres of paths marked out along its Médoc coastline. A
range of varied landscapes, a premise of gentle strolls to be
enjoyed as you please.
Favourite
Planète Pêche
ily
Information on tides forgaTofaurmism) outing. What is it?
“Pescatourisme” (Fishin
Going out with a fisherman or an oyster farmer from Arcachon
Bay and in between two tides (allow between four and five hours),
taking part in on-board activities: getting things ready, turning
over or harvesting oyster pockets, or even setting down oyster
spats. 100% authentic!
€45 / person. €130 per family (2 adults + 2 children).
For information, please go to: www.bassin-arcachon.com
P.6
Portrait
Angélika
«la passonaria»
of the oyter world
Cabane 166,
avenue Ovide Rousset
Port ostréicole La Teste-de-Buch.
Tel. +33 (0)5 57 52 63 60
angelika.hermann@wanadoo.fr
What day is it?
Because every Saturday and Sunday from October to February,
you will find her in Toulouse market. For the rest of the year, it is at
cabin 166 at the Port de la Teste that Angelika Hermann explains
with passion all the secrets of cultivating “the pearl” of Arcachon
Bay. One learns that oysters were already present in Roman times,
and that two tides a day supply the plankton that is essential for
the oysters to grow. Angelika is a go-ahead type of person. In
English and in German alike, she is inexhaustible on the subject of
the history of the mollusc, and she has one pet subject: protecting
the natural environment. With about ten oyster farmers from the
bay, she joined the national co-ordinating body for “Traditional
Oyster Farmers”, and she defends sea oysters, which are 100%
natural.
llers”. We want to put
nt to be just oyster “se
wa
n’t
do
we
s;
cer
du
g and for the client in
“We are pro
our respect for the settin
w,
-ho
ow
kn
l
tra
ces
an
y buy at market: a sea
forward our
entitled to know what the
are
ers
um
ns
Co
ty.
ali
search of qu
r.”
oyster or a farmed oyste
That’s clever
- For those who don’t like the consistency of oysters:
- Try out the Cap Ferret SUP!
SUP = Stand-Up Paddle, a surfboard that you control by paddling
standing up. Eco-friendly, hilarious, and a must for discovering
Arcachon Bay!
Stand Up Center. Tel. +33 (0)6 68 23 95 87.
Et aussi Andade au Claouey, +33 (0)5 56 60 08 93
®
Shuttle.
sin
as
sb
an
Tr
e
th
:
ed
tt
spo
ell
W
-
© S. Viargues
© L’Andade
taste the leaves of Mertensia Maritima. (the oyster plant), a plant that has an
extraordinary taste of oysters. It tastes good, it’s pretty to look at,
it’s original, and it’s easy to carry. On sale in tubs at the
“Jardin des Senteurs” in Biganos
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 26 73 37 www.lejardindessenteurs.com
Line 6 leaves Robinson Plage near Dune du Pilat, and takes 10 minutes to reach Banc
d’Arguin. A return ticket costs just €6. Children (aged 3 to 11) €4. Reservations at the
boarding point or by telephone: +33 (0)6 08 84 63 25. www.uba-bateau-arcachon.com
GET UP! Set your alarm:
6h15a.m, is the starting time for visits to the Arcachon auction
(from Monday to Thursday all year round, by reservation). From the
arrival of fishing vessels at the quayside to unloading boxes of fish
for sale at auction: a two-hour guided tour filled with excitement!
Tickets from Arcachon Tourist Office: €6, children (6 to 12 years) go
free.
Tel. +33 (0)5 57 52 97 97
www.arcachon.com
P.7
La dune du Pilat
Going there with - My pals are mad about y way,
sliding and gliding in an
shape or form
Listed as a national “Grand Site”, the
orama
g Pan
Campin
(gym rolls, boarding, surfing, paragliding). Age is not important provided
that they have a sense of fantasy, because if the view is wonderful from on
high, it is difficult to resist the sand-covered slopes.
The ideal HQ: the Panorama campsite,
in a marvellous pine-wood setting facing the ocean
www.camping-panorama.com
© Phovoir/CDT Gironde
highest dune in Europe is to Arcachon
Bay what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris: unmiss-able! The dune is truly imposing,
m long, 500 m wide, and 105
being
2 500
m high! Just one wish: to be right on the
top and take in all its immensity, then
go hurtling down the slope at a run and
throw oneself into the sea.
- My dearest
Full sail!
Meet at cabin 124 at the port of Larros
anora
© Le P
ma
Because from on high is a view of
one of the most beautiful sunsets in
the world. Then come back down and
enjoy a night out of this world at La
Co(o)rniche hotel and restaurant: a
luxurious, charming setting designed
by Philippe Starck.
ww.lacoorniche-pyla.com
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 22 72 11
for a day aboard the “Argo II”, the only
replica of a period sail-powered sardinefishing boat. Splendid! The programme
includes a sail around Bird Island. Bring
a picnic.
Reservation at Association Argonotique,
in Gujan-Mestras.
Tel. +33 (0)6 50 07 12 03
- A lesson on migrating birds is given by
following one of the four trails that crisscross this curious landscape of old salt
pans, covering 400 hectares and made
up of the dykes, fish reservoirs, and wet
grasslands of the “Domaine de Certes du
Conservatoire du Littoral”.
Guided tour starting from Audenge or
Lanton. For more information, please call
+33 (0)5 57 70 26 55
www.tourisme-audenge-lanton.com
A hearty appetite
A rare pleasure! First, the serenity of
the place: contemporary refinement,
subdued lighting, leather armchairs,
a swimming pool… but happiness lies
in a plate! Stunning blends of products from
the Gironde region, spices, and creativity. We
owe this prowess to Stéphane Carrade, starwinning chef of the Bay. His soft-boiled egg
is paired with Aquitaine caviar, his asparagus
with foie gras, and his cream of mushroom with
carrot chips. It’s all good! Menus from €40.
La Guérinière Restaurant at Gujan-Mestras.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 66 08 78
www.lagueriniere.com
h...
it
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y
a
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d don’t forget
n
a
–
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er
st
oy
of
r
- A hampe
in Gujanre
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n
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st
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e
h
t
to call in at
Mestras.
om “Le Brin
fr
p
u
so
sh
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- A jar of
al fish-canning
n
io
it
d
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t
a
,
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n
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.
factory at Le Teich
- A box of caviar.
ini “dunes de
m
:
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es
t
et
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d
“
of
- A box
almond
on
ch
a
rc
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om Cap-Ferret
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n
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ith tasting
urgeon farm w
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th
of
ur
to
guided
)5 56 82 64 42
nde: a one-hour
nos. Tel. +33 (0
ga
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38
33
- Caviar de Giro
te
de la Cassadot
l. +33
session Moulin
m
co
380 Biganos. Te
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a – Arcachon.
63
89
enue Gambett
av
11
–
et
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qu
ar
, Pâtisserie M
- Les Dunettes
33
64
+33 (0)5 56 83
P8
The Gironde impresses you
- Henry is back from Canada
Banc d’Arguin
He likes wide open spaces – take him for a ride in a
sea-going kayak, out to Bird Island and the cabins
on stilts. Change of scene guaranteed. Minimum
3 1/2hours, €30.
Arcachon Kayak Aventure,
Tel. +33 (0)6 25 08 44 37
- Heavens – my Bay!
Better than 3D, enjoy a live 360° view of the Dune du Pyla,
Banc d’Arguin, and Arcachon via Cap Ferret – it’s GRANDIOSE. To give or to receive – ranging from a baptism in a
ULM to a helicopter flight - 20-minute flight: €60 in a ULM,
€129 in a helicopter.
Héliocéan, Aérodrome de Villemarie à La Teste-de-Buch –
Tel. +33 (0)8 20 82 06 98
ULM, Tel. +33 (0)6 89 42 23 17.
ner
Children’s cor
und!
- Le Teich – nature all aro
ine
ag
im
to
le
litt
e
It would tak
the
of
art
he
the
at
oneself
Leyre
bayou, with the River
le of
dd
mi
the
flowing through
n,
nto
La
m
Fro
ry.
a forest galle
”,
sse
ina
“p
a
rd
oa
ab
climb
ed
om
ott
a traditional flat-b
y, to
boat from Arcachon Ba of
ies
lon
co
d
bir
discover the
this ornithological park.
in the
A 2-hour tour 100%
the
m
fro
e,
heart of natur
os.
an
Big
to
ssy
port of Ca
ch
Tei
Reservations at Le
Tourist Office.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 22 80 46
ods,
by marshes, pine wo An
s.
ne
du
and wooded
ends
atmosphere from the
less
the
r
Fo
.
rth
ea
of the
o
als
are
adventurous, tours
0
2:3
at
ys
da
tur
available on Sa
om
r.c
me
ter
ap
p.m.! www.c
at 8:00
- On a full-moon night
Termer
p
p.m., join the Ca
hours
o
tw
association for
ing
tch
wa
e
tim
nightof
e
tur
na
lés
Sa
s
Pré
at the
rse
ive
un
reserve, a strange
unded
of 496 hectares surro
, take
- For a digestive stroll
r of
tou
ed
uid
the 11-stop self-g
r
ive
d’H
le
Vil
the
in
the villas
no
is
in Arcachon. There
, but
access to the interiors
ilt in
bu
es
us
the beautiful ho
play
dis
g
rin
da
a
1862 offer
oNe
:
of a range of styles
A
.
nic
pa
Gothic, Colonial, His
the
to
y
on
tim
wonderful tes
of the
high-society gatherings
d.
perio
tour of
Guided or self-guided
1/2 hours.
1
r,
the Ville d’Hive
achon
Reservations at Arc
ce.
Offi
st
Touri
P.9
©naturetbassin
Memo
’s Trails”, trailill love “Robin
w
s
in
bk
m
la
y
mysteries to
M
with a series of
based games r discovering the heritage
fo
solve. Perfect
on Bay, having
sites of Arcach
n
ai
m
e
th
d
an
dengele.
fun all the whi Tourist Offices of Arès, Au
e
Available at th os.
an
ig
B
d
an
,
on
Lant
its
hthouse with
Cap-Ferret lig
a,
:
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or
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And ther
arn all ab
le
to
s
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p and
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e
e
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ferret.com
www.lege-cap
And there’s more
-The Arcachon Nature and Heritage Weekends are
great fun. In addition to bed and breakfast, the
price includes one discovery cruise to Bird Island,
one lunch, or one dinner. As an optional extra, one
guided tour: “History and Heritage” or “Nature
Ramble”. From€77 / person.
www.arcachon.com
- Your nephews love splashing in sludge – invite
them to a mud-skating session on the foreshore of
the Bay. Wearing wooden skates tied to each foot
by straps, all we have to do is follow closely in the
footsteps of the guide from the “Nature et Bassin”
association. Laughs guaranteed!
Plage des Quinconces in Andernos-les-Bains
From March to October – duration: 2€ hours
Further information from
www.natureetbassin.com
Carcans beach
ue /CDT Girond
© B.P. Lamarq
e
Portrait
Eric Holder
a Medocan in print
In a Médoc hamlet, a simple, low-roofed house. In front stands a motorcycle.
The dog comes to say hello, the cats ignore you. Welcome to the universe of
Eric Holder, a contented writer. “We settled here in 2005. The desire to be by
the ocean. Here is where we have found our home port.” The Médoc landscapes
send Eric on a journey: “The ocean-side dunes put me in mind of Senegal, the
marshes in winter resemble Ireland, the castles of Médoc send me to Navarre.”
Changing universes that Eric has described in several novels: De loin on dirait
une île, Bella Ciao (Le Seuil, 2009) and La Baïne (2007): “The filming is set for
springtime, with Isabelle Carré in the leading role.” Eric’s novels are a boon for
film makers: “Mademoiselle Chambon”, with Sandrine Kimberlain and Vincent
Lindon, is one of his stories, as is “Bienvenue parmi nous”, which Jean Becker
has just filmed with Patrick Chesnais and Miou-Miou, and which is to be released
soon. A chance to dive (back) into Eric’s beautiful, sensitive writing.
Favourite
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id
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- Not even afr
irondine Land
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seau, Jeany to a night-tim
Hearty appetite!
isù chef by
- Impress Cathy the top tiram
inviting her to La Cabane.
Set a little way from the Lacanau Océan
centre, this outstanding traveller will
fall for the Indonesian lounge setting.
Statues, teak corner, bamboo roof, and an
exotic, relaxing atmosphere. When it comes to
flavours, the journey continues by plate, with
a tiramisù of scallops, squid in citronella and
Madagascan vanilla, or sea bass rolled in a
banana leaf, Tahitian-style… and then there’s
the Tiki, the cabin-style punch!
Menus from €23.
Restaurant La Cabane
Tel : +33 (0)5 56 03 19 15
www.lacabane.cafemaritime.com
u sa
at Cous
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and climb
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mire the su
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to the top to ad
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bottom, a tast
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- Made for romantics:
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the
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Alternative outing: head
ern
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at
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an
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and have a wa
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to
From July
€35 / adult – €25 / child
www.medococean.com
P.10
The
- Naturists are spoilt.
s
les
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wild Médoc coas
s:
tre
cen
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tur
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than three
Grayan-etMontalivet,
l’Hôpital, and Le Porge.
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Further information on
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That’s clever
- The holidays are still a way away. the “Bravo au Nomade”
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d cheerful little trips – lik
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priced at €5 each
Time to sort out cheap
you a book of 11 tickets
ts
ge
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on your own or
Pass for Lacan
season, whether you are
the
t
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gh
ou
thr
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which can be
s facilities available.
with friends; the tickets are accepted by the variou
vings!
A chance to make big sa
in view!
t
ou
b
a
g
in
z
la
:
take it easy in a holiday
- Beware
holidays this summer;
t the
children’s club, and
Flick through sorting ou
t, with swimming pool,
es
for
e
pin
a
of
art
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village at the
le!
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P.11
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Going on holiday with...
.
- It’s my best friend’s birthday
My gift to her is a cocooning session.
The Vitalparc at Lacanau offers stress-busting
rates for one relaxing massage, one oxygen
walk in the forest, and access to the “Espace
Détente” and the “Espace Fitness”.
Oxygen break at the Lacanau Océan Vitalparc:
3 nights from €166. Further informations from
www.vitalparc.com
- my children
- For the next holidays, bury the hatchet on
holiday homework and take your Geronimos
in short shorts to La Rotonde campsite. They
will love sleeping in a tipi and Wild West-themed events. Camping La Rotonde, the Wild
West village at Hourtin
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 09 10 60
www.village-western.com
Children’s corner .: putting out a
- Thursday at 10:00 a.mnson Crusoes (aged
call for all budding Robi
5 to 10)!
venture awaits
ove Carcans Lake, an ad
From the heights ab
senses - will
leader - and your five
you! Cécile the activity
e you to the
tak
l
wil
ey
stery boxes. Th
guide you to find the my
in. A forest
cab
l
rea
a
ild
bu
rn how to
d August;
heart of the forest to lea
an
: every Thursday in July
walk with the five senses
21 01
03
t Office – Tel. +33 (0)5 56
€5. Medoc Ocean Touris
www.medococean.com
s Island pyExramtrid,a!swings, toboggans…
- Childrecasn’tle
, a rope
A wooden
make up a
round to have fun and to it’s free!
d
A whole adventure playg
an
–
ed
: no vehicles allow
t Office –
million stories! Top marks
ris
Tou
n
ea
m the Medoc Oc
fro
on
ati
orm
inf
er
rth
Fu
– www.medococean.com
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 03 21 01
The Gironde is amazing
- Did you know that Carcans-HourtinMaubuisson Lake is the largest freshwater lake
6 000 hectares – that’s quite something! You
in France?
T Gironde
© H. Sion/CD
can take part in a whole range of water-based activities:
stand-up paddle, kite-surf, sail, board-sail, sailing dinghy,
catamaran, canoe, kayak, and even doing a rope course or
going out in a pedalo – there’s everything you need!
sailles of the Sea”?
What was called the “Ver
Tick, tock, tick, tock - ding!
“Cordouan Lighthouse” . Right answer! The lighthouse has
watched over the Estuary since 1611. The building is a little
architectural gem: a vestibule decorated with sculptures, a
vaulted room on the first floor, and even – on the second floor
- a circular chapel, with a marble and mosaic floor! At the very
top is the lantern room. A gallery goes right round it, and offers
visitors a 360° panoramic view of the estuary and its coast.
Impressive!
Good to know: visits to the lighthouse are organised by Verdonsur-Mer Tourist Office using the speedboat “La Bohême II”.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 09 61 78 – www.vedettelaboheme.com
nes”tour?
the “Villas Ancien
on
g
on
al
nt
we
we
if
t
ha
W
.!
m
-10:00 a.
A walk of almost two kilometres, with stops at the most imposing
or emblematic buildings, such as the elegant Villa Stella or the
Villa Chambrelent, typical examples of seaside architecture.
From May to September: a one-hour tour with commentary,
starting from Lacanau Océan Tourist Office.€5 / adult, €3 / child
(aged 4 to 12). Reservations at the Médoc
Océan Tourist Office.
All year round: self-guided tours
with the 4-trail guide for €3.
P.12
Wine Tourism
“With my little basket and my pruning shears, I look as though I’m off to cut a few flowers. Not at all!
It’s a day’s harvesting in Côtes-de-Blaye. It was explained to me: cut the bunches without leaving too
much stalk, and remove all the leaves that fall into the basket. Then rush off to fill the hopper when
the basket is full. I get stuck in. A little bit of emotion: my first harvest!”
The Gironde is the leading wine-tourism destination: 3.6 million visitors between 2008 and 2010,
as against 2.5 million in Burgundy and 1.4 million in Alsace. For half the tourists in the Gironde,
discovering vineyards is a determining factor of their stay.
It must be said that the Bordeaux region has “bottle”: 120,000 hectares of vineyards, 57 appellations,
over 8,000 châteaux, and nearly 13,000 wine growers. And what a palette: reds, dry whites, sweet
whites, syrupy wines, rosés, clarets, sparkling wines, and Fine de Bordeaux!
Favourite
e Château
th
to
f
of
d
ea
h
:
d
en
e the next week
Com
accommodation.
s
u
h
cc
a
B
t
ou
y
tr
,
de Mole to
-Emilion, a long
isseguin-Saint
Children
ne grower” ’
. New: the “apprenticil ethrwi
ough the vines, from
tra
d
workshop, with a game
n to Loupiac. A whole loa
illo
nd
Ro
é
hin
up
Da
au
e,
Châte
win
o
int
s
pe
gra
transforming
of questions on vines,
forth a
rs… something to call
we
gro
e
win
the work of
d.
en
tasting session at the
craft! With a grape-juice
.
(0)5 56 62 61 75
33410 Loupiac.Tel. +33
t.fr
rrie
www.vignoblesda
ury, five
the heart of Pu
the 17th cent
om
A real estate in
fr
g
tin
da
the rooms
building
rietal, three of
va
a
light-coloured
r
fo
ed
m
ing out
s – each na
lounge, all look
sy
co
spacious room
a
a,
un
sa
d enjoy an
bath and
e property an
th
come with spa
ur
to
g,
in
n for the
This even
ck in the autum
ba
e
over the vines.
m
Co
g.
in
wine-tast
€155.
introduction to
. Rooms:€88 to
nd
ke
ee
w
t
es
rv
ha
in-Saint-Emilion
33570 Puissegu
e-mole.fr
www.chateau-d
P.13
In the matter of wine tourism, the Gironde
comes with a “Vignoble et Chais en
Bordelais®” label that guarantees the
quality of the welcome, the tours, and
the tasting in nearly 500 wine-growing
properties. It works in tandem with the “Hébergement
Bacchus” label: gîtes and bed-and-breakfasts in the heart
of wine-growing estates.
The Best of Wine Tourism is an initiative of the
Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Industry.
It rewards the most innovative estates and
wine locations in nine cities set in vineyards with an
international reputation. In the 8th edition, the Gironde
garnered the lion’s share in the following categories:
“Architecture”, “Parks and Gardens”, “Art and Culture”,
“Discovery and Innovation”, and the “Jury’s Favourite”.
More information on the “Voyages au Pays des Vins de
Bordeaux” Press Pack, downloadable from
www.tourisme-gironde.fr
One is blond, the other is brown-haired. They are both young and
close to the world of wine. During a meal with friends, a genius
of an idea arose: offer the public the chance to create their own
wine, “just as you create your own scent in Grasse.” B Winemaker
saw the light of day in June 2010, and is associated with four
châteaux – which will be eight by the start of 2012. The concept is
going from strength to strength!
©B Winemaker
Hey – does it work? Participants are invited to visit the property
before moving on to the cellar, with full explanations on vines,
wine-making methods, and wine-growing. After that, we move on
to the workshop, where things get serious: first, tasting of singlegrape wines (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, etc.), then blended wines.
It’s your chance to see where your tastes lie. Thereafter, armed
with a pipette and with advice from our duo, each of us fills a
bottle in line with her / his taste. All that’s left is to design the
label, find a name for the cuvée, and put the cork in.
From €76 per half day.
B Winemaker,
tel. +33 (0)5 33 48 49 88.
www.b-winemaker.com
wine accessible to all, by
“Our idea is also to make
”
s felt by each individual.
calling on the sensation
appellation
n
r
a
e
v
o
t
le
in
c
p
’s
e
t
e
a
d
h
e
T
- Give yourself the chance to div dly – just 3 km by 4 km – but what a star! A choice
merol. Tid
ting
tion: Po
e-growers: a tas
And not just any appella
ful of enthusiastic win
nd
ha
a
to
s
nk
tha
u,
along minor roadsof discoveries awaits yo
favourite: an 18-km rally
r
ou
or
t,
ou
y
da
’s
die
foo
0 per team).
session at a property, a
rprises at the finish (€3
do it in a car or on a bicycle, with questionnaires and su
tel. +33 (0)6 69 41 19 29
Pomerol wine tourism sme.com
. www.pomerol-oenotouri
: there’s
st
e
v
r
a
h
’s
y
a
d
-A
uning
r
p
of
ir
a
p
a
g
ke holdin
nothing li
shears!
the grapes being
n, tour the cellars, watch
oo
ern
aft
the
me
Co
.
ntation. And between
That’s the morning done
in the full froth of ferme
e
win
u,
urr
bo
ty:
ali
eci
und the table. It’s
pressed – and taste a sp
h everyone gathered aro
wit
al,
me
st
rve
ha
the
s
ilable from Bordeaux
the two, of course, there’
Departures by bus ava
9.
€2
.
od
go
all
it’s
d
all in Blaye country, an
tegironde.fr
42 12 09. www.pays-hau
(€69). Tel. +33 (0)5 57
P.14
Favourite
for us!
. The château, thliefeformer home of the Princea
rsan
need to be
Mazette, Live
r us! You just
fo
st
ju
–
c
kend at this
de Poligna
spend a wee
to
le
op
pe
x
country. The
group of si
heart of Médoc
e
th
in
ty
er
op
cellar tours,
splendid pr
ing sessions,
st
ta
es
ud
cl
in
markets. One
programme
tings to flea
ou
d
l
an
s,
ur
stalks – it’s al
vineyard to
ue with vine
ec
rb
ts
ba
gh
a
ni
2
es
/
evening se
on for 3 days
ge! €349 / pers
ready in the frid
cluded.
basis, tours in
on a full-board
eau
m and Wine Bur
Pauillac Touris
59 03 08.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56
edoc.com
www.pauillac-m
Go there with... treat yourself to a cookery course on how to
match food and wine. The course is at Planète
Bordeaux – where else? The showcase for Bordeaux
and Bordeaux Supérieur wines, with a thousand and
one wines in its cellar. On the kitchen side of things,
have fun getting stuck in with the thoughtful advice of
the chef. €45. A list of Foodie Saturdays is available at
www.planete-bordeaux.fr
Find all the recipes at
www.planetecooking-leblog.fr.
33750 Beychac et Caillau.Tel. +33 (0)5 57 97 19 36
otters
Lunchtime: D’you fancy pig’s tr
with potatoes?
Head for the Café Lavinal:
go on a scooter outing through the
vines of Entre-Deux-Mers.
The region already looks like Tuscany,
with its hills and cypresses. Once there,
you could believe that you were there!
All ours: the little winding roads, the walled towns and their markets, the welcoming estates. La dolce vita in the heart of
Bordeaux country! Hire charge: €50 per1/2day;€70 per
full day; €390 per week. Weekend or weekday trails
available on request. Also in the Sauternes area and at
Saint-Emilion. Vespa Liberté, 33580 Monségur.
Tel. +33 (0)9 71 57 54 19. www.vespatoursenfrance.com
. My friend Isabelle:
she wants tickles and cuddles – me, too, me, too!
Head for the spa at Les Caudalies. Just for us: red-vine
baths, Merlot friction scrub, and wine-grower massage! I think I may just have a “Premier Cru” facial! The
ritual comes in at €250 for 1/2 a day.
Chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte. 33650 Bordeaux-Martillac. Tel. +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83.
. www.sources-caudalie.com
at the heart of the hamlet of Bages, a 1930s-style
brasserie with red benches and a pretty bar. Wellchosen bistro cooking, and a terrace for days with
good weather. Afterwards, take a tour around Bages, a
village full of flavours and of the wine created by JeanMichel Cazes, next door to Château Lynch-Bages and
to the 4-star Hôtel Cordeillan-Bages. Remember to pick
up a few canelés at the “Au Baba d’Andrea” bakery.
Tel.+33 (0)5 57 75 00 09
www.villagedebages.com
Les Sources
de Caudalie
©Vespatours
© Planète Bordeaux
- Epicurean pals:
A hearty appetite
. If it’s Saturday
st.
- My boss is a golfing enthusia
The Médoc Golf Course will help him to unwind: The
Médoc Golf Course will help him to unwind: listed
amongst the Top 5 of the most beautiful French golf
courses by a jury of professionals - please! Even Ballesteros has come to play its two courses… and there’s
a very cosy four-star hotel on site. From €329 for 2
nights, 1 dinner, 2 sets of green fees, and access to the
Espace Spa.
Golf du Médoc Hôtel & Spa, 33290 Le Pian Médoc.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 70 31 31.
www.hotel-golf-du-medoc.com
P.15
el
âteau Cos d’Estourn
The Gironde is amazing!
Ch
?
oof
pr
nt
wa
u
Yo
rdeaux country.
Art and wine live comfortably
together in Bo
Take a close look at the châteaux, which display every style:
Neo-Palladian for Château
Margaux, Tudor for Cantenac Brown, Medocan Folly for Clément-Pichon, and Charterhouse
for Loudenne. A full-on treatise on architecture! The theme
continues into the cellars: the prize for originality goes to Cos
d’Estournel, with its Chinese pagodas, stone dragons, and door
in carved wood, which comes straight from a palace on Zanzibar.
And on into modern times: the cellars of Château LafiteRothschild in the shape of rotundas designed by Bofill, and the
cellars of Pichon-Longueville, designed by Jean de Gastines.
d on
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my pr
correspond t6o0 Arsac. Tel. +33 (0)5 56 39 04 90
334
La Winery,
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course: - Get inform s’ Wine and
of
gth
len
ur
yo
se
oo
Ch
Ladie
evening? Medocan
two hours, a day, an
rkshops. Following
wo
se
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e
win
of
l
oo
sch
x
au
nding workshops
The Borde
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tio
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of
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mb
nu
a
new Epicurean
offers
asting, comes the
introduce you to wine-t and rendezvous of these four ladies
e,
Just as
combining food and win
in the world of wine.
x.
au
rde
Bo
of
es
win
the great
playful and instructional!
www.bordeaux.com
www.lesmedocaines.com
P.16
©Les Médocaines
Memo
© Phovoir/CDT Gironde
Wanderings
“A snack in my shoulder bag, I hesitate between the sea spray and the smell of pine woods, between
a footpath carpeted with pine needles or a cycleway that flirts with ocean, lakes, and marshes. One
thing is certain: Nature will not leave me!”
For the Gironde is to be savoured au naturel. 4,200 kilometres of hiking trails, about 700 kilometres of
cycle-friendly paths and “greenways”, and vast vineyards: the Gironde has not waited for the concept
of sustainable development to blossom forth in order to put it into practice. Protected wild areas fit
to take your breath away, areas of freedom where varied fauna abound, undulating horizons with
the scent of tannin in the air. Whether or on foot, on a bicycle, on horseback, and even in a kayak whatever the itinerary, this is a place where all roads lead to Nature. A well-filled travel journal in the
making!
Favourite
Shank special!
d pair of
oo
g
a
f
el
rs
ou
y
d
il
pro: to bu
a cycle ride!
r
fo
Advice from anot
g
n
oi
g
e
k
li
g
in
is
shanks, there’s h e Roger Lapébie Trail, of courseBri! Th
dge,
GOOD PLAN weekends and short stays availaghbltse.
days / 2 ni
“Eco-Cyclo”
ural Park for 3
at
N
al
on
gi
Re
in the
Information from e-gascogne.fr.
es-d
www.parc-land
th
int John’s
Where? Along
deaux from Sa
or
B
the old
es
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le
greenway
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to
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turn
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inal at
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the cycle term
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bl
sa
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with its four fo
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Further in
mers.com
www.entredeux
P.17
His is the book entitled « Le Guide des oiseaux du Bassin d’Arcachon »
as are « Instants d’oiseaux » and « Guide des oiseaux de nos jardins »…
You will have understood that Claude Feigné likes feathers both literally
and figuratively. As well as being a writer, he is also responsible for
managing Le Teich Reserve, which is attached to the Gascony Landes
Regional Natural Park. He was 16 when he took his first step as a birdwatching guide. Today, he has all the answers for the approximately 265
species, and a further 400 in the bay that arrive by migration. Since Claude
is a firm believer in cohabitation between birds and tourism, he regularly
organises bird-watching weekends. You’ve been warned!
More information from
www.parc-landes-de-gascogne.fr
© PNRLG
Portrait
Claude Feigné
a feathered man!
Greenway
Don’t leave
without..
iendly paths
ironde cycle-fr
G
of
a bicycle
ap
m
he
-T
x-Toulouse on
au
de
or
B
:
ap
ay” m
-The “Greenw
leaflets
olls and hikes”
tr
“s
e
re
th
he
-T
to 21 km.
ing from 6 km
ng
ra
ls
ai
tr
ar
de
18 circul
d at the Giron
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To
at
e
bl
la
ai
Av
ation from
e)
Further inform
oadable on lin
Tourist Board. ronde.fr (documents downl
gi
www.tourisme-
méd oc nor d
le litt ora l
méd oc sud
le litt ora l
on
sin d’ar cach
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à laca nau
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Children’s corner
Ever since they watched “Tintin”, all they
Go there with... d to take
My sweetheart, who has demciucdeh!
up cycling – but not too
ptain Haddock - right?
can do is talk about Ca
Heart of Arcachon Bay
That’s just as well. The
Audenge, and Lanton)
Tourist Office (Biganos,
ur little
ties that will make yo
offers a range of activi
fauna
tic
ua
aq
sts in the Bay’s
pirates veritable speciali you: there’s no question of
re
and flora. Just to reassu ate galleon… but they will
pir
a
rd
oa
ab
m
ginal
getting the
and thanks to highly ori
–
nt
hu
ure
as
tre
a
lise
go on
rea
en
ev
n’t
hops, they wo
y
the
investigations and works
d
an
s…
ng
thi
of
whole host
the
that they are learning a
on
ble mines of information
will become inexhausti
subject! About €5 / chil
bassin.com
www.tourisme-coeurdu
Cycling, eating, sleeping – and all with Logis de Gironde à Vélo!
6 Logis de Gironde with that label offer circular itineraries around their accommodation, and follow a specific quality charter. Everything has been designed for
our weekend to combine sport and relaxation. I’m torn
between Soulac and Villandraut…
Choose your Logis de Gironde à Vélo at :
www.logis-gironde.fr
My latter-day Tarzan,
Cap Cabane
s
©LCap Cabane
to live in a wooden cocoon perched in the trees in the
heart of the Landes Forest.
Space and Nature with comfort on top… real luxury!
Rate for 2 people: €112 per night with breakfast.
Cap’Cabane at Captieux, tel. +33 (0)6 79 36 29 01
www.capcabane.com
P.18
A hearty appetite
The association for the promotion of products from the
Gascony Landes Natural Park invites us to come and
try one at the Delta brasserie, “L’Assiette”, which is
set at the entrance to the Ornithological Park and which offers
a view over the Port of Le Teich. Let’s see, now: six Arcachon Bay
oysters, liver galantine, duck crackling and rillettes, traditional
rye bread, and home-made patisserie, all washed down with a
dry white wine: Entre-Deux-Mers 2004 “La Gravière”… and all
that for €15… I’ll say yes, please!
© VF. / PNRLG
Does a country plateful mean anything to you?
Agri-tourism enthusiasts with your practical guide
“Welcome to the farm in the Gironde”, use your bucolic
escapades to one of the 90 farms to offer tastings of farm
produce and put together your own picnic basket. Yum, yum!
Further information from
www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com
Memo
Head for adventure: go
p, clip, clop – here clo
ip,
-Cl
the Leyre,
You kayaking down
are the vineyards!
art of a
he
od through the
don’t have to be a go
e kayak is
Th
t.
es
for
rse gallery
makes
horse rider to go on a ho
s. a silent vessel, which
g the
trek through the vineyard
rin
ve
co
g it ideal for dis
Teich
With your mount settin
Le
of
nt
ges environme
3
the pace, the sta
rk.
Pa
l
ica
log
es Ornitho
include two tours of estat
ge hours for €25,
per day, tours of herita
80 93
classes tel. +33 (0)5 56 22 iquetasting
sites,
log
ho
and www.parc-ornit
with winegrowers,
ing du-teich.com
arm
ch
nights spent in
rre
Tourist Office, Place Pie
.
accommodation.
ch
Tei
Le
50 Dubernet, 33470
46
1 to 3-day treks, from €1
80
22
Tel. +33 (0)5 56
om
per day.
www.leteich-tourisme.c
ult
ad
It’s great fun, the 1/2
a
beginner’s trek lasting
tre
En
an
of
r
day, with a tou
5.
€7
.
cer
du
Deux-Mers pro
Further information from
www.bdtours.
lk
- What d’you say to a wa
y?
Ba
on
ach
Arc
d
un
aro
per
Covering 15 to 24 km
s
ow
all
th
pa
tal
day, the coas
rld
wo
s
thi
r
ve
co
dis
you to
bird
set apart, made up of
and
s,
od
reserves, pine wo
rts.
po
ing
rm
small oyster-fa
%
100
–
e
tim
of
t
ou
A step
d.
de
en
int
e
tur
Na
as
m
6 nights / 5 days fro
h
wit
tel
ho
€580 in a 2-star
rs.
ne
din
2
d
breakfast an
.
Tel. +33 (0)5 56 79 25 05
m
co
io.
vaz
w.e
ww
option
Cycling
New!
available!
Remember to…
the Gironde is amazing
cle
“Velodyssee” – an epic on a bicy
Diaries at the ready: 30 June next sees the official inauguration
of the “Girondin de la Vélodyssée” itinerary. The course is 128
kilometreslong, and starts at Pointe de Grave opposite Cordouan
Lighthouse, flirts with the seaside resorts of Soulac-sur-Mer,
Hourtin, Carcans, and Lacanau, then runs along Arcachon Bay
via the oyster-farming ports of Lanton, Audenge, Biganos, and
Gujan-Mestras, and comes to its final apotheosis at the Dune du
Pilat. It is part of the 1,200 kilometres of itinerary that run along
the Atlantic coast, from Brittany to the Basque coast.
A wonderful project born of a willing partnership between four
regions and ten départements. No-one doubts that cycling
tourism is going full speed ahead.
Further information from
www.tourisme-gironde.fr
P.19
… check the tyre pressures of the all-terrain bike
to go cycling through the vineyards and châteaux
of Saint-Emilion.
Make your way to the Tourist Office to first of all
choose from the four carefully-chosen “loops”
(free on request): “notable architecture”, “familyowned properties”, “Grands Crus Classés”, and
“Between the Vines and the Dordogne”. Between
10 and 20 km each, with no major difficulties,
there’s something for experienced athletes and
Sunday cyclists alike!
Saint-Emilion Area Tourist Office,
tel. +33 (0)5 57 55 28 28.
www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com
UNESCO and heritage
“The sun sets over the russet rooftops of Saint-Emilion. Tourists slowly drift back to their cars. I am
left alone with the sloping, cobbled alleyways, small, hidden courtyards, terraces hidden in amongst
little squares. There’s only me, now – me, and the lovers…”
Bordeaux has been made a UNESCO site – but not only Bordeaux: Saint-Emilion, Blaye Citadel, and
Vauban’s fortifications are also listed as major sites. Monuments include La Sauve-Majeure Abbey,
the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist in Bazas, and the Basilica of Our Lady of the Ends of the
Earth. For the Gironde is a heritage all in itself, ranging from Gallo-Roman remains to 19th-century
seaside villas, and taking in Romanesque churches, fortified towns, and proud castles. A beautiful
book written in stone, for you to discover on your wanderings.
Children
2:00 p.m. My little monster has been
because
y right through lunch,
a good bo
Pierre. A school
he is all set to meet
stoneworker from
friend, perhaps? No, a
n in the
him about Saint-Emilio
yesteryear who will tell
d the
an
e,
tim
a child at that
Middle Ages, the life of
time,
xt
Ne
s.
ion
cat
in the fortifi
als.
importance of cut stone
im
an
d
an
s
ure
fig
al
tastic
we’ll go on the tour of fan
to 12.
€4. For children aged 5
tour. Information from
n”
ilio
Em
St
oi
-m
“Raconte
me.com www.saint-emilion-touris
P.20
Portrait
Françoise
heritage with
a woman’s touch
No, Françoise Henry-Morlier does not speak of herself or what
brought her to her current post, in charge of three Gironde
monuments. With sparkling eyes and happily voluble, she prefers
to speak of the job of Administrator of National Monuments: “Our
task is to bring a monument alive.” Forty people across France
currently oversee about a hundred monuments. “I am very lucky
with my three very different monuments: Pey Berland Tower, right
in the middle of Bordeaux, which receives visitors from around the
world; La Sauve-Majeure Abbey, in ruins and in a rustic setting;
and Cadillac Castle.” Ah, Cadillac Castle… her eyes sparkle just a
little bit more: “A surprising monument with contrasting periods
in its history: from being a castle of state in the 17th century, it
became a women’s prison two centuries later. Or: how to pass
from light into darkness, from riches to distress.” We must not
forget its owner, the Duc d’Epernon, “a very strong personality.
He was governor of the whole of Western France.” As you may
imagine, Françoise faces the challenge with enthusiasm: “Make
things so that Cadillac is no longer an empty shell, which it has
been for a very long time.”
33410 Cadillac.
Tel. + 33 (0)5 56 62 69 58.
www.cadillac.monuments-nationaux.fr
ith...
w
y
a
w
a
g
in
Go
Emilion. They,
tin
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om
fr
s
on
ro
Excellent maca
ed by
too, should be list
that
UNESCO - a recipe
anged
has remained unch
sweet
since 1620: almonds,
and
and bitter, sugar,
ntained in
co
d
n
A
!
ll
a
s
t’
a
th
fresh egg white –
hite box.
-w
d
n
a
elu
b
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sc
it
k
the same deliciously
small, where
ll
a
,
op
sh
e
th
of
ck
To view: the ba
s, 9
Ferlion macaron
e…
d
a
m
re
a
the little marvels
rue Guadet.
t-emilion.com
.macarons-sain
w
w
w
.
33
72
24
Tel. + 33 (0)5 57
is amazing
The Gironde
sign along the D230
You can’t miss the
between Sauveterre-de-Guyenne and Monségur: Castelmoron
d’Albret – the smallest village in France! 3.54 hectares, which
Charles-de-Gaulle in Paris, and about sixty
makes it as big as Place
inhabitants – not counting the cats. Tiddly but with cats everywhere,
a fortified gateway, houses set right up against the ramparts, a tower
that sighs for its long-destroyed castle, a wash house that’s been all
prettied up… and an artisan chocolatier waiting for you to drop in at
Caumont, right opposite Castelmoron.
www.tourisme-monsegur.fr
P.21
Go there with... ry of
. Alain, for the first anniversa
when we met
A new guesthouse by Saint-Emilion:
pared-down design, natural materials, wood, linseed,
and stone, private terrace for guests, and a wonderful pool. Bruno, a wine professional, will advise Alain
on his purchases, and Emmanuelle will tell me of a
few good places in Saint-Emilion. I must be quick to
reserve, though: there’s only one room! We shall truly
be alone in the world.
6 Pailhas, 33330 Saint-Hippolyte.
Tel. + 33 (0)6 01 39 47 07.
www.carrevigne.com
. Intellectual friends:
a pilgrimage in the footsteps of François Mauriac –
that should keep them happy!
Head for the Malagar estate, his country home, in the
heart of Entre-Deux-Mers country. You can tour the
ground floor of the house which is full of memories,
the red cellar with family photographs, and take a walk
in the park along the path planted on either side with
cypresses on Mauriac’s orders. If it’s their thing, sign
up for the Balades Littéraires: wanderings through
the remains of places that inspired Mauriac, towards
Malagar or Bordeaux, to recapture the atmosphere of
Le Sagouin or of Thérèse Desqueyroux.
33490 Saint-Maixant. Tel. + 33 (0)5 57 98 17 17
www.malagar.aquitaine.fr
Castelmoron
d’Albret
That’s clev
- A brer
illiant idea:
combine d
iscovering
heritage w
programm
ith discove
e set in th
ring
e heart of
Abbey (a U
E
n
tre-Deux-M wine. Just think: a ca
N
ESCO Worl
Ca refully-sele
ers countr
d Heritage
stelmoron
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Site) and S
-d’Albret,
L
a
a
on the ba
Sauve-Ma
in
a
n
te
a
-F
b
erme Abbe
solute lov
nks of the
jeur
e of a litt
y; a wande
Garonne;
craftsman
le village,
r through
a little bit
to have a
a
nd throug
of tr
look at ba
Entre-Deu
h La Réole
sket-makin aditional craft with
x-Mers ap
,
a visit to a
g
p
;
e
th
llation wh
Entre-Deu
e
n
fi
n
e
wicker
-tune your
ite wines
x-Mers Ma
with a win
knowledge
ison des V
/ person,
e tasting
ins! Isn’t li
of the
half-board
a
t
fe
th
w
a
e château
c
o
Office of M
c
nderful? A
or at
rt and Win
onségur, te ommodation in a “3
e Holiday,
l. + 33(0)5
épis” rate
€209
d bed-and
56 61 82 7
-breakfast.
3. www.en
tredeuxme
Tourist
rs
.c
om
once more
to Bordea
ux
with a tou
r in an 18th and Saint-Emilion
UNESCO “
-century B
ours: unde
Grands Cru
ordeaux c
rground m
abriolet ca
s”! A very
onuments
The added
rr
full day
ia
,
ge – then
the medie
extra: a to
Saint-Emil
val town,
ur with co
snack with
io
a
n is all
n
d
mmentary
the wine-g
of a wine-g discovering the vine
rower. €9
Every Frida
yards.
2
ro
from Bord
wing esta
y fr
eaux, €72
te – and s
Tourist Offi om mid-May to mid
fr
h
are a
om Saint-E
-October.
ce
milion.
Tourist Offi of Bordeaux tel. + 33
ce
(0)5 56 00
66 00. ww
www.saint- of Saint-Emilion, tel.
w.bordeau
emilion-to
+ 33(0)5 5
x-tourisme
urisme.co
7
55 28 28
.com
m
- It’s Friday:
A hearty appetite
La Sauve-Majeu
uld you say
wo
at
wh
–
e
im
at
te
s
It’
.
p.m
5:00
to nettle fritters?
And a little bowlful of red kuri squash soup?
Ah, I see that the Périgord verjuice has tempted
you… At the “Oh Légumes oubliés” farm, teatime is a
Memo
s in
- Tour the castle
onde:
Gir
ern
South
the
with
s
lid
so
a
,
de
illa
Roqueta
a
ut,
proud lines; Villandra
t
tha
e
lac
pa
veritable fortress
al
tiv
Fes
the
sts
each year ho
and
of Fools; Cazeneuve
ce
an
iss
the charm of Rena
for
de
Brè
houses; La
uieu
memories of Montesq
rk;
pa
yle
-st
sh
gli
En
its
and for
od
go
a
and Malle Castle,
le.
sty
cal
example of Classi
©Oh ! Légumes
oubliés !
serious affair. People take the opportunity to try the four
flavours – sour, bitter, sweet, and salty – from about twenty
products, fruits, and vegetables that have been forgotten,
and that are grown organically. First, we went to look at the
kitchen garden and the orchard, and we got lost in the Maze
trying to find the recipe for the magic potion and understand
sustainable food production. € 9 for the tour and a snack.
Château de Belloc, 33670 Sadirac. Tel. + 33(0)5 56 30 61 00
www.ohlegumesoublies.com
lled
- Then there are the wa xeu
-D
tre
En
towns of the
13th
Mers area: built in the w
ne
century, they were the
Ages,
le
dd
Mi
the
of
ns
tow
layout
with their chessboard
uares.
sq
ed
ad
and their arc
their
r
ve
sco
)di
(re
You can
ed
am
r-fr
walls, their timbe
arm
ch
the
houses, and
rkets:
of their covered ma
nn e,
ye
Gu
e-d
re
er
Sa uv et
grue,
lle
Créon, Blasimon, Pe
.
lac
dil
Monségur, and Ca
m
www.entredeuxmers.co
am
- Lose yourself in a dre
me
co
world when you
ide
as
se
across Soulac’s
s
les
ins
mo
:
architecture
,
on
ach
Arc
n
tha
n
ow
well kn
,
las
vil
of
but still a pretty set
ilt
bu
m
the
almost 500 of
h the
from 1860 onwards, wit
ere is
Th
y.
lwa
rai
the
of
advent
Lady
r
also the Basilica of Ou
, a
rth
Ea
the
of the Ends of
of
ys
Wa
the
on
staging post
in
ilt
bu
s
wa
t
tha
es
Saint Jam
th
the 12 century.
www.soulac.com
P.22
re
E st u a r y
“Under the grey-blue sky, the muddy waters take on shades of ochre. It’s not yet the ocean – but it’s
more than a river. Flat islands seem to drown in it. In the distance, a ship that looks like an oil tanker
crosses the path of an elegant old tall ship. Caught between the past and the present - an unsettled
world.”
The Garonne and the Dordogne combine to form the Gironde estuary, the biggest in Europe: 600 km2
in area, 70 km in length, 12 km wide. A sense of the Mississippi with its fresh and salt muddy waters, a
strange, appealing world that is starting to open up to tourism and reveal its secrets.
That’s clever time: .
on
. You need to beestion of missing
P.23
the ferry
there’s no qu
rque on
ma
La
ry from
that crosses the estua
bank.
ht
rig
the Médoc bank to Blaye on the
e up
eu
qu
s
car
tain:
Places are difficult to ob
oard
Ab
ce.
tan
and dis
to cut down on driving
lf an
ha
for
ly
en if on
a boat on the estuary, ev
and
es
Tim
re!
adventu
hour, gives a sense of
om
-blaye.c
prices at www.tourisme
Portrait
Guillaume de Mecquenem
His dream has a name: “Iles”
Guillaume agrees that his was a different kind of childhood. “I arrived on Margaux
Island at the age of 6, and I stayed there until my teens.” A dad who was manager
of the Margaux wine estate – yes, wine is still produced on an island in the estuary
– meant that the family arrived just as the islands’ population was falling: “Our life
was lived against the tide; people looked at us as though we were fringe-dwellers.”
Living on an island is necessarily different: “My brother, sister, and I were often late for
school – which was on the left bank – because the boat would often get stuck in the
mud.” A life lived close to Nature – drive the tractor, handle the boat, fish for eels, frolic
in the mud – and all of a sudden, Guillaume caught the estuary virus.
Aged 28 and with a few years of sailing behind him, he threw himself into Gens
d’Estuaire and launched his product “D’Iles en idylles”*. A wine tour in a water taxi
from Bordeaux, a one-day cruise going up the estuary, a stop for food at Patiras to
* €135 / person from Bordeaux
sample estuary products, and wine-tasting on Margaux Island. A concentrated version
Tourist Office.
of the estuary that he loves.
www.gensdestuaire.fr
Favourite
de evening
% Giron
0
10
a
:
e
n
u
L
l’
re
So
ner cruise
Din
ns d’Estuaire!
ng new with Ge
hi
et
m
so
y
tr
ay … Let’s
Phew! It is Frid
pier
ram :
barge,
the prog
the Sorellina
Have a look at
of
d
ar
bo
on
e producer
come
e tasting of on
7.30 pm : Wel
in
w
en
th
x,
ordeau
m 2011”.
Richelieu in B
t of Wine Touris
es
“B
illuminated
e
th
by
river, along the
rewarding
ne
on
ar
G
e
th
U NESCO.
rture on
ge classified by
9.00 pm : depa
ta
ri
he
its
d
an
ye, foie gras,
deaux
ragus from Bla
facades of Bor
pa
as
as
ts
uc
cal prod
Dinner with lo
…
st
duck brea
to dock
10.30 pm : back
ay 2012.
l the 25th of m
child under 12
Every Fridays til
ed) – €35 per
ud
cl
in
t
no
s
(drink
€60 per adult
39 27 66
tel : +33 (0)5 56
re
ai
tu
Gens d’Es
tuaire.fr
www.gensdes
iche
« Route de la Corn
fleurie »
,
laye and Bourg
ad. Between B
ro
s:
he
ic
ge
rn
lla
Co
vi
e
th
and troglodytic
r and head for
small harbours
jump in your ca
,
ith
et
w
ns
g
fishing huts on
in
su
rt
e
fli
m
s,
Co
the bank
ets, those odd
el
to
rr
e
ca
os
e
cl
th
ks
ic
of
edere at Eyquem
ctures
the route st
y from the belv
hau to take pi
ar
-T
tu
de
es
ee
qu
th
of
Ro
rama
d its vines!
stop off at
th-taking pano
ere, Médoc an
th
ea
br
er
a
ov
rs
d
fe
an
of
–
stilts. Tayac
bès, Ile Verte
t over Bec d’Am
ou
ok
lo
:
le
st
Ca
P.24
Go way with...
, fresh or
a
re
a
e
y
la
B
e
h
t
of
s, a speciality
u
g
ra
a
sp
a
e
it
h
w
ced on Toutd
u
od
pr
it
Sweet an
of
ll
a
e,
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of Côtes-de-Bla
le
t
ot
b
rb snack,
a
pe
s
su
u
a
pl
,
in
ed
e
n
lg
u
tin
d
in
chtime, why not
n
lu
t
A
.
rm
a
the summer,
F
e
t
u
om
C
?
y
l’Y-Fa
a
w
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a
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ightaway or to
ra
st
t
Balades”,
ea
io
t
t
es
F
er
“
h
et
in
h
w
rt
pa
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k
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-M
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Je
d
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snack.
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Véro
ft
a
n
a
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b
rds and followed
a
ey
n
vi
e
h
t
in
d
el
s-vins.com
theatrical events h
.blaye-asperge
cillac. Tel. + 33
re, 33860 Mar
Lardiè
(0)5 57 32 48
30. www
the Gironde is amazing
Go there with...
Friends who are nature lovers.
An island, a lighthouse, a refuge, all just for us: on
Patiras Island, a “cul noir” dinner: a pork-based barbecue. On the menu: tapas, grills, doing little or nothing
on the chaise-longues, just as you please – with, all
around, the calm of Nature and the estuary. Magical!
Departure from Pauillac or Blaye on Friday evenings in
summer - €40.
Have they been good? Then take them to thed
s built by Vauban an
citadel at Blaye. It wa
!
ry – a splendid building
stands above the estua
film
l
rea
a
h,
es, a churc
Ditches, ramparts, hous
“Grand Jeu avec Jehan”:
h
wit
r
tte
be
set… and it gets even
rn to find
ily - 23 questions to lea
a game for all the fam
y panels
swers, thanks to displa
your way and find the an
s knight
ou
r example: which fam
set all over the site. Fo
e up?
giv
ou
D’y
?
Middle Ages
was Count of Blaye in the
d tour
family can take the guide
And there’s more: all the t an idea of Vauban’s system
ge
of underground areas to
s: €5, children: €3.
ult
of defences. Exciting! Ad
5 57 42 12 09.
Tourist Office tel. + 33 (0)
Tourist
” booklet on sale at the
“Grand Jeu avec Jehan
aged 7+.
Office (€2). For children
It’s not just the Périgord that has mammoth etchings.
Have a look at Pair-non-Pair grotto, not far from Bourg:
bison, mammoths, and ibexes from 30,000 years ago. It’s
not the caves at Lascaux, but even so…!
33700 Prignac-et-Marcamps.
Tel. + 33 (0)5 57 68 33 40
http://pair-non-pair.monuments-nationaux.fr
Le Sinbad
P.25
CMN
Children
- Carved mammoths
©Ph. Berthé /
who still has the soul of a child. Immediate boarding
at Blaye or Pauillac on the “Sinbad”, a tall-masted
schooner with the lines of a ship of yesteryear, for two
hours of sailing the estuary. For late-evening cruises,
an option with pre-dinner aperitif is available.€19, €30
with aperitif.
Cœur d’Estuaire, 13 bis rue Segonzac, 33390 Saint-Genès-de-Blaye. Tel. + 33 (0)5 57 64 36 69.
www.coeurdestuaire.com
Loudenne Castle, a pretty 17th-century charterhouse set
on the bank of the estuary. An Irishman had it painted pink
in the 19th century. It now belongs to the Lafragette family,
and excellent Médoc wines are produced there. Marvel of
marvels: you can even stay the night in beautiful rooms
with charming retro decor.
33340 Saint-Yzans-de-Médoc.
Tel. + 33 (0)5 56 73 17 80 www.lafragette.com
©Sinbad
My dearest
s… it’s…?
People in Médoc call it Pink. It’
A hearty appetite
other in Law
M
ng
ti
vi
in
of
up
d
fe
u
yo
e
Ar
lunch?
Dearest a traditional Sunday
Why not go to a real guinguette? Head for the harbour at Macau:
Quinquin, welcomes wandering Bordeaux folk with open arms, offering specialities from
the estuary: friend shrimp or “bibiches” as finger food, cod salad, eels in parsley sauce – all
washed down with a glass of white and the view over the estuary. Mother in Law Dearest will
love it! About €20.
Chez Quinquin. 33460 Port de Macau. Tel. : + 33 (0)5 57 88 45 89
Shrimps done – time for prawns! They originate from the Pacific, but are brought along nice in
two fish farms. Marshes, a landscape that looks like the Petite Camargue, and exciting tours to
learn all about these little creatures. Available for sale and for eating on the spot.
Saint-Vivien-de-Medoc, Ferme Eau Medoc, tel. + 33 (0)5 56 09 58 32.
Ferme La Petite Canau, tel. + 33 (0)5 56 09 49 66.
Memo
watch
. Come springtime,
stork,
by
the birth of a ba
aux.
ise
d’O
in at Terres
ted
tec
pro
of
res
120 hecta
for
tel
ho
tar
4-s
l
rea
a
:
areas
ten
d
an
about one hundred
t can
species of birds tha
nd,
rou
ar
ye
all
d
be observe
d
an
thanks to themed trails
by
ht
Rig
observation points.
Les Callonges.
80.
Tel. + 33 (0)5 57 32 88 r.
f
.
x
w w w. t e r r e s d o i s e a u
int
Sa
ud
Tourist Office of Bra
88
32
57
5
(0)
Louis, tel. + 33
88. www.ot-estuaire.com
p
ho
- At the turn of the tide, k
kaya
aboard a sea-going
Les
at
ur
rbo
from the ha
nk:
ba
ht
rig
the
on
,
Callonges
el
lev
the estuary from water
re
we
u
yo
– you’d think that
gle to
at sea… And what a gig
of a
lts
sti
the
n
ee
go in betw
carrelet!
trated
- Give yourself a concen
the
on
e:
nc
estuary experie
rth
no
D2
the
low
left bank fol
d
roa
the
y;
tol
ris
-Ch
int
of Sa
d
an
ter
wa
goes right past the
,
urs
rbo
ha
y
the marshes. Tin
ats
bo
”
fly
on
rag
“d
carrelets,
like
with nets that look
ps,
rim
sh
wings for fishing
on
se
ou
hth
lig
and a small
–
se
ou
hth
Lig
s
rd’
land, Richa
ry
tua
transformed into an es
eco-museum
.
tel. + 33 (0)5 56 09 52 39
aux
Terres d’Oise
Favourite
most beautiful
!
ed
b
in
ongst the 100
g
am
n
d
zi
te
la
lis
o
en
n
ut
it’s be
fill my basket!
e: just think –
ere’s plenty to
nd
th
,
ra
rd
-G
It’s Saturday – arbke
la
go
ri
yPé
Fo
beautiful
by
t at Sainteded houses, a
and from near
the m
des, arca
Gironde
Get yourself to
produce from
lf-timbered faça ne-paysfoyen.com
ha
ith
:
w
t
53
ha
12
W
in
.
ilt
ce
markets in Fran
walled town, bu place! www. tourisme-dordog
ity to tour the
un
rt
po
beautiful
op
e
th
Take
gne valley is a
do
or
D
e
th
t…
covered marke
ith a view
the terrace? W
on
s
er
-M
ux
de
trethe lighted
t a glass of En
Castle or over
c
no
lla
hy
di
w
Ca
f:
iti
of
er
egant dining
sing silhouette
Time for an ap
nner in the el
di
g,
in
over the impo
en
ev
drooms. A
ol. This
in the cosy be
st
swimming po
re
d
ne
ar
l-e
wel
y, right in the
room before a
Garonne valle
e
th
in
er
ov
op
to €145.
worthwhile st
oms from €75
Ro
s.
er
-M
ux
de
heart of Entre2 avenue de la
u de la Tour***,
ea
ât
ch
du
el
Hôt
410 Cadillac.
Libération, 33
76 92 00
atour.com
Tel. + 33 (0)5 56
ant-chateaudel
ur
ta
es
-r
el
ot
.h
w
ww
dars in the
ce
e
h
t
on
ly
t
en
g
light is fading
e
h
t
d
n
a
.
m
p.
0
7:0
garden.
P.26
That’s clever
The Ciron is so cute!
dity contributes
s wine country: its humi
rne
ute
Sa
e
sid
ng
alo
ws
ne flo
a canoe down
ron
the chance to paddle
This tributary of the Ga
duce sweet wines. Now’s
pro
to
s
the winegrower
pe
gra
of
rot
to the noble
Carbonnieu Castle, where
at
p
sto
the
is
g
icin
y on the
from Bommes. The cherr
offers us a tour of the estate and its wines - €12. 13
s, tel. + 33 (0)5 56 76 69
Tourist Office of Sauterne
angon.com
www. sauternais-graves-l
. d or white,
re
in
es
Go away with..
m
co
It
!
if
t
Bordeaux aperi
”
k
n
ri
-d
st
u
m
“
% Bordeaux
e
5
h
8
t
:
:
7
t
8
le
il
18
L
ce
of
n
si
le
t
e,
ot
n
Ab
c, on the Garon
sa
en
od
our the small
P
t
o
t
in
e
y
d
it
a
n
m
u
rt
n
po
ee
b
op
s
e
a
and h
queur. Take th
li
e
g
n
a
drink in
or
e
t
d
ri
n
u
a
,
vo
rk
fa
a
b
’s
d
a
on
on
B
ch
wine, cin
sters. It’s James
po
d
ol
s
it
h
it
w
,
ry
le
museum and distil
www.lillet.com
(0)5 56 27 41 41
“Casino Royale”!
33
+
l.
Te
.
ac
ns
0 Pode
hal Foch, 3372
8 cours Maréc
Go there with...
Pals who are water babies:
Mascaret
paddle a canoe along the Isle in a canoe for a bit of an
adventure. This tributary of the Dordogne offers sweet
little corners with its mills and its wash houses – and
a bit of a thrill when you go through locks and negotiate running water. The base at Saint-Seurin-sur-l’Isle
is well known to enthusiasts. From €10 for half a day.
Tél. + 33 (0)5 57 49 73 48
Children
Harry Potter is not the only one with witches
me, too! They’re there,
– Vayres Castle has so
with the gnomes and
hidden in the copses,
escape their wicked
the elves. Be brave: to
pencil…
a sheet of paper and a
potions, all you have is
moats
its
h
wit
tle
cas
g
imposin
ged
Don’t forget to tour the
lon
be
king the Dordogne: it
ord
and crenellations overloo
sw
d
an
e
in July for the cap
,
me
to Henry IV. Come back
stu
co
in
g
cin
fen
of old-style
festival: demonstrations
for yourself.
with the chance to try it
r for
a self-guided play tou
ed
“‘La Forêt Enchantée”,
list
le
ab
ark
rem
aged 3+) in
families (with children
58
57 84 96
gardens. Tel. + 33 (0)5
om
www.chateaudevayres.c
The Gironde is amazing Come the September high tides
head for Saint-Pardon-de-Vayres, a small village on the
banks of the Dordogne, downstream from Libourne. That’s
where the breaker is at its most spectacular: the rising tide
brings a wave in from the ocean that goes upstream for up
to 200 km, at speeds of between 15 and 30 km an hour. A
surfers’ delight!
A hearty appetite
OK – a lamprey, is not the sexiest thing, with its
eel-like body and a large sucker for a mouth… but in the
Gironde, the lamprey is a cult object – because it tastes
good! To find out why, go to Sainte-Terre: this small town
on the Dordogne is the world lamprey capital! Lampreys
take centre stage in April: that’s when they are served à la
bordelaise, with a red wine sauce – plus there’s the chance
to meet professional fishermen. And never again will you call
it a fish: it’s a vertebrate! www.jardindelalamproie.fr
aboard
a waterborne aperitif
gne,
- Reserve a place for
rdo
Do
the
ng
alo
two-hour trip
a
:
e”
roi
mp
La
on:
ssi
“La
ur
se
- Put yo
tasting
e is one
Cabara and including a
March. The programm
m
16
fro
y
g
da
rtin
Fri
pa
on
h
de
,
wit
g
ert
the
nc
tin
co
g in
ic ou
is followed by a tastin
xt trip, try the gastronom
ne
ur
yo
On
0.
€1
m
fro
of classical music, and
a
ide
ers. A highly original
lampreys (€38).
company of winegrow
ssionate foie gras, magret, and
pa
are
o
wh
urg
Bo
de
tes
Tel. +33 (0)6 80 02 54 83
winegrowers of the Cô
out music.
ab
d
an
ft
cra
ir
the
t
ou
gabarerestaurant.free.fr
ab
at
tes
da
ng
mi
co
up
Programme and
91.
m Tel. + 33 (0)5 57 94 03
www.bourgartsetvins.co
Memnaome down for the next “Bourg Arts et Vins”
P.27
© B. Nadeaux/CDT Gironde
Events
Novart
to 30 Nov
S… culture From 15
iveness. It’s
E
T
A
R
B
LE
E
C
ity and invent
X
tiv
U
ea
A
cr
E
ns
g
D
lin
R
O
bb
B
ks of bu
from exhibitio
February
ember
rmances,
! Two wee
you in
shows to perfo
e arts, is back
ag
om
st
Fr
of
c.
n
et
e waiting for
io
,
ic
at
lebr
dance, mus
tic projects ar
e,
tis
tr
on the
ar
ea
n
w
the biennial ce
ke
Th
ne
!
ta
t,
re
s
out who ha
the momen
sc
ver seen befo
of
nt
s
ne
le
,
on
w
ta
si
a
ne
,
es
,
ni
pr
ad
m
rary ex
Maragna
, all contempo
ge is Frédéric
to screenings
the man in char
,
on
iti
ed
h
9t
this
Bordeaux. For
the surprises!
ctor! Bring on
re
di
tic
tis
ar
role of
at Andernos-les-Bains
n
On 18 and 19 February
Ice-sculpture competitio
A slightly frosted gathering of enthusiastic and committed amateurs for the national ice-sculpture competition on “transparent” water ice.
Melt with pleasure before the ephemeral works. www.andernoslesbains.fr
March
as
at Bazas The Thursday before Shrove Tuesday Fête des Bœuf Gr
If you have never tasted a T-bone steak à la bordelaise from Bazas, you cannot boast of knowing the taste
one of the best meats in the world: marbled, tender… Awarded the Label Rouge and Label de terroir marks,
the Bazas steak is worth a celebration! A tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages, with a parade of bulls
dressed with ribbons and flowers, a bovine contest, and Personalities enthroned by the Confrérie Bazadaise
Bœuf. The whole followed, of course, by the final great feast! www.ville-bazas.fr
o f
du
May
at Pauillac on 26 May La Médocaine
“La Médocaine” is the little sister to the great autumn Médoc Marathon. This race, however, is on all-terrain bikes. Enthusiasts, please note:
there are four trails of varying length (between 30 km and 100 km) across the Médoc vineyards, with gastronomic stops and with the pace
set by a number of orchestras. Atmos’ guaranteed! www.medocainevtt.com
at Lacanau from 25 to 28 May Lacanau Gliss’Festival
Air, land, sea… On roller skates, towed water-sliding, kite-surfing, or tandem parachuting: Lacanau is
where it’s at! On the ocean wave and on the lakes of Aquitaine, experience three days of discoveries, free
taster sessions to a range of sliding-related pursuits, and demonstrations by national and international
champions. Something for all the family to try! www.lacanau-gliss.fr
June
at Arcachon from 22 to 24 June Jumping des Sables
Rediscover all the elegance and dexterity of amateur and experienced horse riders along Pereire Beach, Arcachon’s emblematic stretch of
sand. Three days of competition with obstacle courses, events, and horse show. www.cearcachon.free.fr/jumping.html
P.28
at Soulac-sur-Mer the first weekend in June Soulac 1900
At Pointe du Médoc, Soulac is a listed “ancient village” because of its 500 1900-style villas. It rediscovers all its splendour of yesteryear
for a weekend, when its inhabitants dress up in period costume. Frilly dress, parasol, bowler hat, and even bathing costume on the
beach… From the Belle Epoque to the Roaring Twenties, the village is transformed. The theme for 2012: «L’art en fête». A wonderful,
unusual weekend in view! www.soulac1900.fr
at Hourtin Port
(Hourtin harbour) on 9 and 10 June. Bambino Party
Children’s Island is the fiefdom of our little darlings, and becomes the incredible setting for the Festival Bambino
Party. The programme includes Les P’tit Z’aventuriers, a creative workshop with an introduction to archery; La
Récré, with its open-air games like table tennis and trampolining; and a water area for water pistols and to try your
hand at canoeing, using a pedalo, stand-up paddle, and kite-surfing. In short, outsize games and a huge mystery
trail. Just one condition: you must be between 3 months and 12 years old. However – adults, have no fear: you are
welcome, too! www.bambinoparty.com
ly
End of June - Beginning of Ju
BORDEAUX … wine or river: you must decide! From 28 June to 1 July Bordeaux fête le
Vin
Odd years for the fête du fleuve, even years for wine. Thus, in 2012, wine is centre-stage all along the Garonne
quays. Imagine a series of white pavilions, a real “wine route” with over eighty appellations from Bordeaux
and Aquitaine presented. Four days of pure pleasure dedicated to the world of wine, with workshops from the
Bordeaux École du Vin, cookery classes, Tasting Passes with a free glass and twelve coupons giving access
to the stands. And everywhere, tables surrounded by conviviality, concerts in the Place des Quinconces. And
from 11:00 p.m., a huge son et lumière with a firework display every night. Straight out of a fairy tale!
More info on www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com
ALL SUMMER LONG
Oyster festivals
Bandas, pinasse regattas, parades in
traditional costume, fireworks… Nothing
is too good to pay homage to the Queen
of Arcachon Bay: the oyster – what
else? From Lège-Cap-Ferret to L’Herbe,
from Lanton to Andernos, all the oysterfarming villages of Arcachon Bay come
together every summer to celebrate their
benefactress. It’s a chance to discover and
to taste oyster farmers’ produce, as well as
to come out of your shell and have a good
time.
at Castillon-la-Bataille
Four months of programmes, over 1,000
performances, almost 60 festivals, each
one more surprising than the other.
Literature, music, and theatre… Art in all
its forms awaits you in the Gironde all
through the Scènes d’été.
www.scenesdete.fr
Horse teams, stuntmen, staged fights…
Relive the end of the Hundred Years’
War! A powerful son et lumière show put
on by hundreds of volunteers. Over 800
costumes, 450 actors, and about 50 horse
riders in all. Fabulous!
www.batailledecastillon.com
June: Festival at Lège-Cap-Ferret
July: Festival at Lanton, GujanMestras, and Andernos-les-Bains
August: Festivals at Arès, Claouey,
and L’Herbe
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Septembre
Les Festi’Voiles
at Claouey 1st weekend
Rowing regatta, monotype regatta, pinasse regatta, sailing dinghy regatta… come and watch the great gathering of boats from all
over the bay for the great festival of sail with events, concerts, and fireworks.
For more information www.cnclaouey.com
Ouvre la Voix Festival
at Créon 2nd weekend
Harvest-time is great fun. It’s the chance to go cycling along the 55 km of green way in the Entre-deux-Mers area. Just for the occasion,
the Roger Lapébie cycleway is the common thread of the Ouvre la Voix cycling-and–music festival. Imagine stages punctuated by giant
picnics on the grass with tastings of regional products, stages set for concerts in a market place, and a Romanesque
church. A wonderful idea to discover your region whilst having a good time.
www.ouvrelavoix.com
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at St Emilion La Jurade de St Em
What do the 3rd Sundays of June and September have in common? The folk of SaintEmilion know all too well. The Jurade is back! The jurats are the ambassadors of Saint
Emilion wine; they dress in red togas and ermine capes to parade through the town.
They announce the spring festival with the proclamation of the judgement on new wine,
and come September, they open the harvest from the top of the Tour du Roy, the citadel
dungeon of the former Saint Emilion Town Hall. www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com
November
2nd Saturday of the month
The Médoc Marathon
Officially, it is - of course - a matter of running the 42.195 regulation kilometres of the race. On the fun side of things, the marathon is
one of the great Médoc events. It begins on the evening before, with the great “1000 pâtes” evening in a Médoc castle. Then all along
the magnificent course, which snakes through over fifty castles, the meal stops offer oysters, T-bone steaks, and produce from the
Médoc granary. What a feast!A little added extra: runners are in disguise!
www.marathondumedoc.com
Décembre
at Andernos-les-bains 1st Saturday of the month Cabanes en Fête
Recipe for a successful fiesta: in the 40 cabanes of the oyster-farming harbour, takes the best oysters of Arcachon Bay. Have them
cooked by leading chefs from the region, with drink provided by the 40 winegrowers of the region, sprinkle the whole lot with groups
of bandas, concerts, and fireworks, and don’t forget to add a dose of good humour and the presence of traditional ships. And there
you have it: one of the great gatherings of Arcachon Bay. www.andernoslesbains.fr
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at Grignols The Sunday before Christmas La foire aux chapon
Anxiety over the Christmas meal makes itself felt. Be original: this year, choose a capon – a neutered cockerel. At Grignols, capons
are fed on grain, bread and milk. Their fame has spread far and wide, thanks to their flavoursome meat. Moreover, as a final homage
to this strange bird that will end up on our plates, the Association des producteurs de chapons grignolais sets up a traditional capon
fair in the central square and in the village’s covered market. Over 5,000 capons are sold.
OT de Grignol, tél. +33 (0)5 56 25 00 00
ors
Gironde
© Phovoir/CDT
Vineyards open their do
-20 and 21 October
73 castles in Les Graves
welcome you: they have
set up a number of options
to help you discover
their
domain:
wine
trails and walking trails,
winegrowers’
dinners,
or highly original bedand-breakfast stays. The
choice is yours! Top tip:
the free minibus service
from Langon Railway
Station, running every 30
minutes from 11:00 a.m. to
5:00 p.m
www.vins-graves.com
- 20 and 21 October
Winegrowers from the
Fronsac and Canon Fronsac
appellations welcome you
to their cellars from 10:00
a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The list
of participants and the
programme of festivities
is available at the Fronsac
Maison des Vins, set in
the heart of the village of
Fronsac.
www.vins-fronsac.com
P.30
- From 11 to 13 November
47 castles of winegrowers
from
Sauternes
and
Barsac are ready to share
their passion for wine with
you.
Events, tastings, cultural
exhibitions, etc.
www.sauternes-barsac.com
And more châteaux to
discover on
www.tourisme-gironde.fr
Download your touristic information on :
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Varsovie
Bruxelles
Prague
Paris
Vienne
Bordeaux
Lisbonne
Madrid
Berne
Rome
Contact :
Anne QUIMBRE
+ 33 (0)5 56 48 68 16
a.quimbre@tourisme-gironde.fr
Karin LABARDIN
+ 33 (0)5 56 48 91 27
k.labardin@tourisme-gironde.fr
Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Gironde
Maison du Tourisme de la Gironde 21, Cours de l’Intendance - 33000 BORDEAUX - France
Tel : + 33 (0)5 56 52 61 40 - Fax : + 33 (0)5 56 81 09 99
contact@tourisme-gironde.fr
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