The PHR Foster`s Handbook

Papillon Haven Rescue Foster Handbook
“Pap Haven”
Revised February 2015
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Table of Contents…………………………………………………………………...……..………1
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………..…...2
Foster Contacts…………………………………………………………………………..……………..…..3
Before You Begin as a Papillon Volunteer …………………………………………..……..….....4
GOALS…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..6
Flow Chart of how PapHaven works…………………………………………………………………7
Team Leaders and Organizational Structure ………………………………………….……... 10-14
Regional Map with Listing of Directors………………………….…………………….…….......13-14
Introduction to the Administration Website and Public Pap Haven Website …….…14-16
Guidelines for Picking Up Your New Foster ………………………………………….…….…. 17-20
General Fostering Guidelines ……………………………………………………….……………... 21-23
Introducing Your New Foster to Your Resident Dog ………………………………………..24-25
How to Grade Your Dog Food……………………………………………………………………..…26-27
Hypoglycemia……………………………………………………………………………………….….…28
Crate Training……………… ……………………………….……………………………………….…..30
Vetting Guidelines…………………………………………………………………………………….….31
Vetting Protocol…………………………………………………………………………………….…..…32
STEP by STEP: Goals for fostering your newly rescued papillon …….…..…………....33
If You Plan to Foster or Adopt a Mill Dog …………………………………………………….…34-35
Forms you will need and how to use them: ……………………………………………….…. 36
a. Reimbursement form
……………………………………………………………... 37
b. Initial Base Foster Dog Report
…………………………………………….….. 38
c. BiWeekly Foster Update . ………………………………………………….………… 39
d. In case of an Accident …………………………………………..…………………… 40
e. Transfer release form ……..……………………………………………………....... 41
f. Adoption Fee Schedule ………………………………………………………….…... 42
g. Holiday Adoptions……………………………………………………………………..... 43
h. General Fostering Policy Summary…..……………………………………….….. 44-45
Additional INSERTS for your Foster Handbook………………………………..……….……….46
Dental Disease & Teeth Brushing……………………………………………………………..……. 48
Micro-chip Instructions…………………………………………………………….49
Heartworm National Map……………………………………………………………………….……. 50
How to MARK a hard-sided Crate for PHR………………………………………………….…….. 51
(INSERTS will be available with different topics periodically – please add to your Handbook)
1
Papillon Haven Rescue
A Safe Place for Papillons and the People Who Love Them
Welcome to the wonderful and challenging world of being a Papillon Foster Parent!
There is nothing more gratifying and rewarding than rescue work, be it with animals
or humans. We have chosen to rescue and help Papillon and Papillon mix breed
dogs. We are all happy to welcome you to our Papillon family and know you will find
this little breed to be a joyful addition to any home.
On the following pages you will find some information that we hope will help you in
your endeavors to get your foster pappy ready for its new forever home. All the
members of Papillon Haven Rescue are standing by to assist you in every way. We
have an Advisory Board to assist Directors, Regional Team Leaders, Foster Team
Leader, a consulting Veterinarian and many others that have been working with the
Papillon breed for many years. Each Papillon comes with its own distinct personality
and, often times, with its own set of issues. If we all work together we can save these
wonderful little dogs and get them into homes that will love and cherish them for the
rest of their days.
Thank you a million times for wanting to join our effort to protect this
wonderful breed.
Pappy Smooches!
PLEASE PRINT OUT THIS HANDBOOK IN ITS ENTIRETY
We suggest you obtain a small 3-ring notebook for quick reference for this Handbook as
well as any other education material presented on the PappyCare YahooGroups site.
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PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE
FOSTER CONTACTS
Foster Team Leader
Debra Goetz
dagoetz123@yahoo.com
814-490-7440(c) (Eastern Time)
Brian Dendis prowlerman99@msn.com Assistant Foster Team Leader
Behavioral Issues
Carol Stewart
Sandy Comise
cstewab@hotmail.com
zoniedog10@cox.net
(Eastern time)
623-363-7955(c)
(Mountain Time) WEST
InTake & Placement
Diane Holt dlwh44@aol.com
760-486-7827(c) (Pacific Time) EAST
Sharon McGowan mcgowansauer@outlook.com 425-870-6920(c) WEST (MT. Time)
Adoption Team Leader
Andy Watson jim.andy.watson@verizon.net 979-968-6350 h (Central Time)
Sharon McGowan mcgowansauer@outlook.com
425-870-6920(c)
(Mt. Time)
Or…. Check our website Contact Us page where you may
click your state to connect with your Region Team Leader
All other:
Jan Jorolan jorolan@catc.net 501-815-2766(c) Central Time
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PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE
Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“Pap Haven”) Volunteer, you will need to sign and fax
an agreement stating that you have read and understood the following rules and regulations. This is
for everyone’s protection, including our rescues!
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, LET A PROSPECTIVE ADOPTER VISIT THE
DOG BEFORE THEY HAVE BEEN APPROVED TO ADOPT. ALL Adoption Applications MUST
be approved before any placement of a rescue dog occurs. (No exceptions can be made to
this.)
If you have possession of a Pap Haven foster dog, this dog MAY NOT UNDER ANY
CIRCUMSTANCES BE RETURNED TO THE PREVIOUS OWNER. THE OWNER TURN IN PAPERS
ARE IRREVOCABLE AND ARE LEGALLY BINDING. They also may not be moved to another home
(foster home or adoptive home) without permission and approval of the Pap Haven directors and/or the
Foster Team Leader.
Each Pap Haven dog is to be fully vetted before placement. In most cases, Pap Haven will pay directly
for the vetting. All medical treatment (except for emergencies) needs to be authorized for each dog. A
letter can be prepared for you to take to your veterinarian, or our Medical Team Leader can contact the
vet directly to make arrangements. Please note that the drug Rimadyl is not to be used for long term on
any of the Pap Haven Rescue dogs. You may use Medicam or ask your vet for a substitute if he wants
to use this drug. Nor do we use Revolution as a preventative.
If you are taking in an Owner Surrender, you will need the following form, to be signed by the person
turning in the dog, and by yourself. RELEASE AND SURRENDER FOR ADOPTION (see Admin Site).
Never take your own animals with you to the home of an owner turn in. If we asked you to go get an
Owner Surrender, time is of the essence. Please do not think that the dog will be safe for a few more
days. Often, it will not. Let us know if you cannot go right away, so we may try to find another volunteer.
If you get to the home of the Owner Surrender and for any reason do not feel the dog will work out
being fostered at your home, please do not leave it there! We will pay for boarding until another foster
home can be found. The ONLY exception is the Pap you are about to pick up and bring with you is a
BITER.
When you are going to retrieve a dog from a shelter, we can email a copy of our 501c3 papers, for you
to take with you to the shelter, together with a Transfer and Release form. Many times the shelter does
not have their own release form. If not, DO NOT LEAVE without getting our own form(s) executed. If for
some reason you must be at the shelter without the needed documents, and the Shelter does not have
a release form, etc. then write out some kind of Release Form saying they release the doggie to Pap
Haven and get the shelter representative to sign and date it.
If one of our fosters dogs goes missing, contact your Foster Care Team Leader or Regional Team
Leader or any of our contact names immediately so that we may help you to have the best chances of
recovery. We have a LOST DOG packet (admin site) with instructions, if one of our dogs gets away
from you. ALL Pap Haven rescue doggies MUST wear collars and/or harness and PHR identification
tags at all times. (We furnish PHR tags which you may obtain from your foster team leader when you
request preventative medications)
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ADOPTING YOUR FOSTER
It is very important if you decide you wish to adopt your foster Pap, the Adoption Team be notified
immediately. Even if the dog is not yet on the public website, it is imperative that you notify the
team by an e-mail or by sending in an Adoption Application as soon as you have made the
decision to adopt the foster.
The goal of the Adoption Team is to match up a potential adopter with the needs of the Pap who
will best fit these requirements. Usually the adopters have a Pap in mind when they apply but
sometimes they don't and sometimes the Pap they wanted to adopt is not a good fit. At that point,
the Adoption Team will suggest available Paps that might be right for the family. Sometimes we
also suggest Paps who are not yet listed as "Adoptable" on the public website but who are almost
ready for that big step. This is why it is terribly important to let the Adoption Team know your
intentions as soon as possible. It is not good public relations to mention a Pap to the potential
adopter only to have the foster mom or dad decide that they just can't let the dog go to another
home.
Some rescue organizations have hard and fast rules about allowing foster parents to adopt their
foster dog. PapHaven has no such rules. We generally allow the foster families to adopt their foster
dogs and rarely say no. But we do ask your cooperation in informing the Adoption Team of your
intentions as soon as possible.
Sleeping Arrangements
Foster Paps should not be allowed to sleep in the big bed with their two legged foster parents. All
foster Paps should be encouraged to sleep in a doggie bed or in their crate. We have had several
foster Paps that have fallen from beds which have caused injury to the Pap. We are also seeing
adoptive homes who want their Paps to sleep in a crate or in a dog bed and once a foster has
been used to sleeping in the big bed they are needing to be retrained once rehomed which is
proven to be difficult and sometimes stressful for the adoptive home. It also may cause a potential
home to look at only those dogs that are not used to sleeping with their people. In a time when we
are seeing more and more dogs coming into foster care and dogs being returned to PapHaven we
need to give our fosters every chance to succeed in their potential adoptive homes and this is one
of those things that we can do to help.
We all have our own preferences for our own dogs and that is o.k. There is nothing wrong with
letting your dog sleep with you if that is what you prefer, (I personally love my own dogs being in
the bed with me) but I also know if something happens to one of my own dogs I am 100%
responsible for their vetting because of it. We need to remember our fosters do not belong to us.
So, cuddle them, but at bedtime please get your foster used to sleeping in a doggie bed or in their
crate.
5
GOALS (in order) we hope to achieve during fostering:
Restore Health- As soon as possible your new foster should be taken to the vet for an
evaluation. (thorough checkup)
Please refer to vetting protocol for questions. There is a cap on medical expenses of
$250.00. If your foster needs special tests or anything outside our vetting protocol it
must be approved prior to the test.
1. Teeth
2. Parasites
3. Brucellosis short test- ONLY if from a commercial breeder or substandard breeder.
4. Heartworm test- DO NOT need if the dog has been on monthly heartworm prevention
and we have vet records and the dog has had a heartworm test within the last year.
All PapHaven rescues will be maintained on heartworm prevention year round.
Heartworm prevention and flea medication will be provided by PapHaven. On the
PapHaven website under forms there is an online medication form that once filled out
will automatically be sent to our medication manager, Antoinette (Toni) Johnson. If
you have any questions please email Toni at TygV26@aol.com
5. Bring up-to-date on basic vaccinations- if giving full coverage on vaccinations, delay
rabies for 10 days after to decrease risk of a negative reaction.
6. Spay/Neuter
Socialize – Always give treat & praise for POSITIVE behavior.
Ignore the negative.
7. Introduce your foster to your own fur babies only after the foster has been given a
clean bill of health from your veterinarian. Your foster should meet your pack one at
a time which will help with the transition for your new foster, by serving to maintain
order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among the pack members. Many
times our fosters watch and learn from our own dogs.
8. If you have a foster who is fearful of being held or picked up -- start slow. Leave
them on a long leash at first so that you can guide them to potty or where you need
them to be without having to corner or chase them. Always allow them to see an
outstretched hand and always approach them from the front. Do not use sudden
movements or fast approaches. Patience is the key.
9. Sit on the floor with the dog and sprinkle treats around your feet and legs so the dog
associates you with good things. You can offer treats with your hand but don’t get
frustrated if your foster does not want to take treats with your hand in the beginning.
It is o.k. to toss them on the floor.
10. After your foster trusts YOU completely (and not before) start taking them on trips to
friends or PetSmart/PetCo.
11. Start out with nonthreatening soft, lightweight toys. Leave them lying around the
house and eventually they will pick them up especially if your foster sees your own
dogs playing with them.
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7
I have Read the Foster Handbook
Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“PapHaven”) Volunteer, you will need
to sign and return your agreement stating that you have read and understood the
following rules and regulations as set out on these pages (4-7) of the Foster
Handbook, plus the contents of the Foster Handbook.
Name: _____________________________________
Signature: ___________________________________
Date: ______________________
Send to:
PapHaven
PO Box 20306
Hot Springs AR 71903
Or email to: dagoetz123@yahoo.com
or
jorolan2@yahoo.com
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PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE
A Safe Place for Papillons and the People who Love Them
RELEASE AND HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENT
FOSTER CARE
I acknowledge that Papillon Haven Rescue (PapHaven) an animal rescue organization, is the current owner
of the Papillon or Papillon mix dog (s) that I will be fostering in my home as part of PapHaven’s rescue
efforts and rehabilitation programs.
I further acknowledge that PapHaven has informed me that it may transpire that some or any of the dogs
may bite and/or has bitten or caused personal injury to persons who were attempting to provide care for him
in the course of rescue.
Despite having been fully informed by PapHaven of the risk that this may cause or attempt to cause injuries
to myself and/or other persons, it is my intention and desire to provide Foster Care (as defined in the Foster
Care Guidelines) for any/some dog(s) for PapHaven thereby assuming all risks associated with each dog’s
temperament.
I understand and agree that by executing this Agreement I am forever waiving and releasing any and all
claims or causes of action that I have or may have had against PapHaven for damages that may be caused by
the rescued dog (s) while in Foster Care, including without limitation, claims arising from personal injuries
and/or property damages.
In particular, I agree that I will not initiate or participate in any claim, lawsuit, or administrative proceeding
against PapHaven in connection with any damages that the rescued dog(s), may cause by biting, scratching
or otherwise injuring myself or any other person.
I acknowledge that I am entering into this Agreement voluntarily and with the intent of being legally bound
by its terms.
AGREED AND ACKNOWLEDGED THIS DATE _________________
BY: RELEASOR
____________________________________
Signature
_____________________________________
Printed Name
2/05
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General statement
02/2015
All will work together for the betterment of Papillon Haven Rescue
•
MANAGEMENT TEAM
Directors: financial; medical; archival records, all areas of ultimate responsibility are for the Directors.
Advisory Panel: advises the Directors on issues within and outside of PapHaven.
•
PROJECTS
Librarian – Amy Fretz - Collects educational materials, books, magazines related to the Papillon
breed plus general training and health issues. These are available for check out to the members.
Newsletter – Nora Lenahan - Editor
Events/Creative – Liddy-ann Everett
Special WEBSITE Projects:
Pet Finder web – Pat Ebaugh
Media/Face Book Coordinators – Annie Paynter & Annie Johnson
seek suitable websites to link our PHR site and web searches to benefit our cause
Café Press – Bonnie Bias & Mary Fournier; eBay & PayPal Giving– Berdine Martin
Rainbow Bridge – Bonnie Bias
Happy Tails – Annie Johnson
Happy Tales – Annie Johnson
PapHaven Yahoo List – Ann Paynter (all Yahoo list)
Shopping Mall Manager – Annie Johnson monitors the Mall
and takes inquiries and orders – coordinates sales with members with
merchandise and shipping to purchaser.
Blankie and Foster Balls –Kay Sullivan, Andy Watson & Donna Witt
PapMingle – Liddy-ann Everett
Zazzle: Liddy-ann Everett
•
Fund Raising -- Jan Jorolan (Donna Moore); Tina Bergstrom – Facebook Store
Nora Lenahan, Amy Fretz, Ann Paynter, Annie Johnson, Becky Erdman, Amy Engel
Need solicitor for donations
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PapMoneyTalks
Grants and Grant writing – Joan Haddock
Spring & Fall Auction: Amy Fretz & Annie Paynter need more help
Westminster Games – Annie Johnson (Jan Jorolan) cancelled 2014
2015 Calendars – Mary Fournier (Jan Jorolan) need more help
• Admin Site Monitor and Support -Diane Holt, Sharon McGowan, Lyndell Penny, Jan Jorolan
Enters new IN-COMING (Diane & Sharon): Keeps DOG LOG (Intake Log) – Legal list of all
rescues in our group and their disposition; completes FINAL records (Jan) (send pictures to Jan)
Dog Log Name Keeper: Diane Holt & Sharon McGowan.
Admin Records “checker” - Lyndell Penney & Bonnie Bias
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•
Adoption - Andy Watson
Sharon McGowan
Records Assistant – Annie Johnson
Receive and process Applications for Adoption. Answer prospective adopters' questions or direct to
proper person. Work with Foster Home Coordinator to complete the cycle.
Monitor the Adoption webpage for up-to-date status of each rescue.
Adoption Announcements: Andy Watson and Foster Moms/Dads
New Foster Home Apps: to Deb Gotez dagoetz123@yahoo.com
DNA –Kathy Norton (Jan Jorolan) (for Foster Coordinator/Adoption Coordinator):
review regularly the National Do Not Adopt databank and post to the membership any person
deemed not fit for adoption.
Post Adoption Liaison – Ginger Heard (Joyce Young)
Will do a follow-up interview with the Adopter at about one month; three months and one
year to see how the Rescue Pap is adjusting to the new Forever Family.
•
Finance – Donna Moore (Jan Jorolan)
Accounting; funds acquisition; banking; reporting; fund raising.
Virtual Foster site: (Jan Jorolan) Tracking donations for specific paps and
providing update to subscribers.
•
Foster Home Team Leader & Trainer – Debra Goetz dagoetz123@yahoo.com
Maintain contact with all Foster Homes. Help with fostering issues, compliance with guidelines and
policies, continuing education, training and mentoring, and fostering Goals. Work with In-Take &
Placement Leaders in placing incoming Paps in proper and/or available foster homes. Assist
Adoption Team Leader in Receiving/processing Foster Home Applications. Works with Foster
Homes in making Adoption decisions. Notify Adoption Coordinator when a rescue deemed ready for
Adoption.
Micro-Chip: Micro Chipping will have co-responsibility with Chip Manager Lisa Winters
and the RTLs. To be maintained on Chip Log and the DOG LOG. Send original Micro Chip
paperwork to Jan Jorolan.
Chip Manager: Lisa Winters wintersjazz@aol.com
Meds Manager: Toni Johnson Dodi5468@yahoo.com - EMAIL
Education: Debora Switzer
Behavioral Assistance - Carol Stewart cstewab@hotmail.com EAST
Sandie Comise - zoniedog10@cox.net WEST
•
In-Take - Diane Holt –EAST & Sharon McGowan - WEST
Initiating rescue. Intake of rescued doggies. Full fills data gathering of initial PIN request. Assists
Regional Team Leader in placing in foster home. Extensive networking with other rescue
groups/shelters and/or transporting groups. Works with Adoption Coordinator, Region Team
Leaders, Foster Team Leader.
Assist in Coordinating Transporting of In-Take Paps with Transport Leader and/or Region Team
Leader; Assist in moving foster paps when needed.
PINs Archive: Tina Bergstrom Maintains archival files of all IN-TAKE PINs
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• Transportation – Lynn Grenier & OTRA & other reliable groups
Net work with other Transporting Groups for national contacts.
"Run & map" (coordinate) and monitor a rescue transport.
Crate Librarian: Sharon McGowan
Keep Log of all CRATES for transporting. Try to anticipate where next In-Take need will be
and get them there. We require our Paps be crated during transports.
NOTIFY Sharon when a Pap moves with one of the PHR Crates.
•
Medical - 3 rotating DVM advisors reporting back to Directors.
Directors have the responsibility for: Interfaces with veterinary clinics and hospitals, maintains
medical records/reports, advises on the health and well-being of our rescues. Keeps the membership
up-to-date on medical advisories, etc. Working with Foster Team Leader and Foster Mom/Dads with
health issues and providing preventatives. All medical records are due to Jan Jorolan immediately
upon treatment or evaluation. Most Vet Invoices are now paid via PHR Credit Card (jan jorolan)
•
Operations – Jan Jorolan
Oversight of the organization, documentation and development.
•
Webmaster – Tami Jones Bradford
Design and maintain our website.
Keep Organization Officers posted on any dead-lines for domain, or web subscriptions.
Volunteer Sunshine Committee - Gail O’Connor & Kathy Terry
Need more members Communicates with the membership. WELCOME newcomers - Social
amenities -- reminder to PHR Yahoo Group list for members to enter birthday dates on yahoo list
calendar. Cards (electronic) to members when needed. Correspondence - Thank You notes, etc.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------•
REGIONS:
Region Team Leaders will be the leader for their Region. Establish a communications
network with the members in their respective region and stay in close contact. Recruit other
members and/or potential foster homes. Organize and lead a rescue within the region in
conjunction with the In-Take and Placement Team Leader. Implement action to coordinate with
other regions and/or other Team Leaders as needed. Be knowledgeable of PHR Guidelines,
Procedures, Policies and Processes. Collect applications and other data. Distribute
educational/training and other printed materials. Conduct and/or assist with coordinating Home
Visits. Meet with other Team Leaders monthly (or as called). Process New Volunteer Applications.
Deposit PapHaven General Representative Applications and Volunteer Applications in designated
archive sites.
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Region 1: WA; MT; OR; ID – Terry McGowan (AZ + WA)
Region 2:
TX -- Sharon McGowan (AZ+ WA)
Region 3: NE; KS; OK -- Jessica Lewallen
Region 4: MO; AR; LA; MS. -- Need
Region 5: IL; IN; MI; KY; OH -- Joyce Young & Amy Engel
Region 6: VA; WV; PA; MD; DE; NJ -- Lynn Grenier (PA)
Region 7: NY; CT; RI; MA; NH; VT; ME -Region 8:
Chris Carlson (CT)
TN; NC; SC; GA; AL; FL -- Catherine Parrish (FL)
Region 9: ND; SD; MN: IA; WI -- Nancy Sundberg (MN)
Region 10: CA; NV -- Lucille Collura & Lyndell Penney (CA)
Region 11: CO; UT; WY; AZ -- covered by Sharon McGowan (AZ)
Region 12: NM
- Greg & Beth Connors (NM)
(all non-filled Regions default back to Jan Jorolan)
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Board of Directors
Jan Jorolan
Andrea Watson
Donna Moore
Advisory Members
Advisory Members are elected every two years in staggered fashion.
Bob Foulk
Linda Fleisch
Amy Fretz
Nancy Sundberg
Lyndell Penney
Sharon McGowan
===================================================================
PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE
Websites: (our website is “duel” i.e. two sides) The Pap Haven Administration (called the “Admin
Site”) is located at: http://admin.paphaven.org
The PapHaven Public Website is located at: http://www.paphaven.org
Admin Site:
Each member of Pap Haven has his or her own password for entering the admin
site. The user name is your last name and your password is what you have chosen. Generally, the
first time you log onto the admin site your password is paps (this password will change from time to
time). Once you log on the first time you will need to change your password to something that you
will remember and no one else will know, including the Foster Team Leader. If you should forget
what your password is please contact the Foster Team Leader or Jan Jorolan who can then reset
your password so you can log on and change it again.
In order to change your password once you log onto the Admin Site click on People under
Operations; click on me (at the top of the page in the middle of the screen). This will bring up
your contact information, click on edit, under access password erase the dots and type in a
password you will remember. You will not see letters but dots. Once finished, look at the bottom
of the page click on Update.
There is a wealth of information for all of us on the Admin Site. In order to use the site without
problems, please make sure you have any “popup blockers” disabled. The left side of the page
gives you all the areas that you can visit while on the site. When you click on one of the choices on
the left column it will open a new area on the right. You will now have more options to choose from
on the right side. Please feel free to look around the entire site, it is a work under constant
progress and will change often. All the members, animals and forms will be on this website. When
you go to PEOPLE (on the left) you will then have choices on the right, one of which is “me”
(meaning yourself). This is the information we have for you and it can be changed or corrected by
clicking on the edit button.
Always click on update at the bottom of the edit popup when you are done. The information on you
14
should be kept up to date at all times as this is where everyone looks to get phone numbers,
address’, email address’ etc. It also produces a map of your location, which is very helpful if we are
trying to place or move a foster dog. Please keep this information current.
When you go to the Animal selection under OPERATIONS, on the left it will then list all animals
currently in the system (including yours). This is the information that feeds the public website that
in turn feeds Pet Finder’s website. The bio of your foster is shown here along with photos. The
public will see these foster pappies in full view on our public web site and/or Pet Finder. Again, this
information needs to be current and as accurate as possible. You have the ability to edit your own
foster information.
Please make sure that the information completed on your foster dog is the most current at all
times. Again, click on the update button on the bottom of the popup page. The age, weight, height
and medical status are critical. Current photos are a must so please take them often and email
them to BONNIE BIAS bjbias@gmail.com. Attempting to take a close up picture as well as a full
length picture are good choices for potential adopters. (face & body)
Once again, the accuracy of this information is critical in getting your foster dog noticed, wanted
and adopted!
NOTE: Before changing the "status" to Adoptable, notify Jan or Andy. Only they should change
the status to these two categories as it triggers everything loading to the Public side of our
PapHaven website. Other tasks also need to be completed BEFORE this happens.
Public Site:
I am sure that everyone will agree that this site is simply gorgeous! The artwork, buttons and
design are stunning and the information provided will certainly help the public in understanding the
breed and finding a Papillon of their own. Please visit this site often. It will have information for the
public and the members. We are eternally grateful for the work of Jon Grubb in setting up our
wonderful original duel website and for “Z” for her wonderful sketches.
15
GUIDELINES FOR PICKING UP YOUR NEW FOSTER
Look at the teeth when you see the dog. Minimize stress on the dog and minimize cost,
if the teeth really need cleaning and the dog is taken to the shelters contract vet for
neutering, make sure they clean the teeth at the same time. Also, request they do an
anal expression and trim the nails. This saves the cost of a second anesthetic (good for
the dog and good for us, they normally never charge for the anal purge and nail trim)
and the contract vet's office will usually give you a price reduction for the teeth cleaning
too.
You MUST inquire what anesthesia is used at the shelter vet clinics – Isofluoran (or
upgrade) is the approved one for Papillons. Paps are super sensitive to the common
form used and in some cases have died. There is a new IM (intramuscular) form of
anesthesia – Telazol – that is causing reactions in Papillons, so it is not recommended
or accepted by PapHaven. ASK your VET what they use!
These are the things we want done at the shelter vet...please get an estimate first,
if possible.
1) Spay/Neuter (Unless said rescue is possibly pregnant. Let us (Jan or Andy) know
if this is the case.)
2) Vaccinations (Please put the rabies tag on the dog immediately...in case it should
get lost; they will be able to track him or her. Also, if you have an old rabies tag
for your dog, you might even temporarily put it on his or her collar...it will be a
way for someone who might find the dog, to contact you.
3) Heartworm check.
4) If a mill doggie, ask for a Brucellosis short test.
5) Check condition of teeth.
6) Check for parasites if found start deworming.
7) Condition of nails/feet/skin/ears, etc.
8) Have your vet do a hearing and sight test so that we may let adopters know how
well their new dog can see and hear.
SEE VETTING PROTOCOL (to be printed out and taken to the Vet Clinic)
If a dog is taken from a shelter, then it should be taken to a vet immediately, without
it going home to the volunteer's house first, if possible. If not, then the dog should be
quarantined somewhere far from the other animals in the house, and then go to the
vet the next day or as soon as possible.
Safety First! There are times when the rescue you are to pick up may have a disease
that is not obvious. As a precaution, wear long sleeves and use latex gloves when
handling doggies that you do not have firm documented health information on.
16
Things to take with you when you go to pick up the new rescue:
•
•
•
•
•
Paper towel for clean ups;
Old bath towel for comfort in the crate;
Treats – good for diversion when needing to put on collar, etc.;
Toy that makes a squeak or noise – also good for diversion; and,
Bottled water and bowl.
The shelter may provide you with a short leash that has a loop on the end. We
recommend that you take a harness or a collar (preferably a martingale collar if the Pap
is larger), and a leash of your own.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
Ask if they checked for a microchip. If so, get the number.
Ask what shots they have given him.
Ask for all of the history they may have on the Pap, the family it came from, etc.
Did it receive regular vet care?
Why was it turned in (Use as a guideline this may not be the "whole truth.")
What kind of food is the dog use to eating?
What kind of personality have they observed?
Any issues?
Evaluate for fleas and/or ticks. You may want to treat the rescue with Capstar for a
quick kill of the fleas then use Frontline or Advantage before it goes home with you.
When you arrive at home put him in the place you have prepared for him. Show him
food and water bowls. Maybe a special toy or bone just for him. Remember that a
change of diet can cause intestinal distress so be prepared. Give him time to rest in
his new home without stimulation from outside sources before introducing him to the
rest of the family. He is under stress and more than likely was just neutered or spayed
so is feeling the effects of anesthesia. When you feel comfortable, introduce him to the
other family members SLOWLY and let him tour his new home under supervision.
How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you
are going to quarantine the dog for a few days. You will need some time to determine
if he is housebroken or not.
Make certain your fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced
area, in case he can climb a fence. Or in the case of mill rescues, they may bolt to the
far corner and try to evade capture. (Ask about the “trailing leash” method) Also see
Puppy Mill information within this Handbook.
You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pens to be able to
confine a marking, or not housebroken dog, yet allow it to be with you. You may prefer
an ex-pen (exercise pen) or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and
pet or love on the dog easily. Both folds down so can be moved to always be where
17
you are. The dog can stand, sit, lie down, or stand on his hind legs without any
restrictions. There is room for food and water bowl and a bed.
An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or
bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate
and the dog can see out, but it safely confines him or her.
It is strongly recommended to isolate (Quarantine) a dog that comes from a shelter for a
few days before letting it interact with your personal pets. Kennel Cough is highly
contagious and is airborne. Also, parasites can highly be contagious so it is imperative if
you have other pets to pick up any feces immediately. It is a good recommendation to
have a separate area in your yard that your other dogs do not use to allow your new
foster to go to the bathroom until your new foster has been cleared of any and all
parasites. It is good to have a safe place where you can observe the rescue and yet he
can be part of your family. It is absolutely imperative to keep your own pet's boosters
current when doing rescue work. Your pets MUST come first!
It is very helpful to take the time to interact with the dog you are considering rescuing.
1) Walk around with him or her.
2) Hold the dog often.
3) Speak softly to him or her, and assure this new fur bay that everything is going to
be all right.
4) See how it reacts to you handling its ears, paws, and tail. This can give you an
5) idea if the dog is timid, or very friendly.
6) Does it go to the bathroom as soon as it is let out of its kennel? If it does, it may
be a good indication that he or she housetrained.
7) Does he or she seem happy to be with you?
A Pap brought into rescue, has to be neutered or spayed before leaving. Remember,
the Pap cannot be bathed for 10 days after surgery.
Make a vet appointment as soon as possible to get a general evaluation of the dog's
health. Please get all vet visits approved, first, before you go to the vet. Please ask if
your vet will give a discount, for rescue dogs. Most vets will give a 25 to 30 % discount
for true rescue dogs. We have all necessary documentation, to prove we are a
legitimate non for profit rescue group.
Regarding Heart Worm and Flea and Tick preventative, PapHaven will pay for only what
the dog uses while in rescue with PapHaven. Never give heartworm preventative
without a current negative heartworm test, unless the dog has been on monthly
heartworm preventative AND we have vet records, which show a heartworm test within
the last year. If you need to use one or two of your own HW preventative pills, while the
Pap is in rescue, you may ask the Medication Manager to reimburse you for what you
have used. We will not reimburse financially for HW prevention and/or flea medication
18
as we do provide this to every foster that requests. You may choose to donate your
own HW prevention and/or flea medication which can be deducted from your taxes each
year. In order to request medication please go the admin site http://admin.paphaven.org
Under Forms and Documents click on Fosters and you will see an online medication
form. Click on this form and fill out completely including fosters weight. Once you
complete and send it is automatically sent to the Medication Manager. The desire is
that all forms are completed by the 10th of the month and all medication will be mailed
out on the 11th. The goal is to have all meds received by/on the 15th of the month
schedule.
The medications we provide are Iverhart Max (Invermectin/pyrantel
pamoate/praziquantel) for Heartworm Prevention and Frontline Spot On for Flea
Prevention.
We do not use PROHEART 6 (now withdrawn from the market),
Comfortis or REVOLUTION triple poison application for Heartworm,
Flea/Tick prevention. We prohibit the doubling up of two different
preventatives at the same time.
Send the vet evaluation/notes and a picture of the rescue to In-Take Team Leader,
as soon as possible. You may fax us at 1.501.865.4600, or email Jan Jorolan at:
jorolan2@catc.net Get the dog vetted as soon possible so that any health problems
are discovered and immediately cared for. Our rescue will need a clean bill of health
so that he/she can go to its "forever home" as soon as one is found.
For reimbursement use the Reimbursement Form included in this handbook and
also on the Admin Site and mail original copies of the shelter rescue fee (if any) and
vet bills within 30 days to:
Papillon Haven Rescue
c/o Donna Moore 1440
Mt. Vista Dr.
Knoxville, TN 37920
If you have a scanner you may scan bills and send with the form to:
hezekiahmoore@hotmail.com and jorolan2@yahoo.com
Please make sure you keep a copy of all of your vet bills and records in your own file
until your foster is adopted just in case any records are needed.
19
Papillon Haven Rescue
General Fostering Guidelines
When you arrive home take the dog to the place you have prepared for him. Show him
food and water bowls, and perhaps provide him with a special toy or bone just for him.
Provide comfortable, clean towels or other padding for him to sleep on. Give him time to
rest in his new environment without stimulation from outside sources before introducing
him to the rest of the family.
Acclimate him to other members of the family, both animal and human, gradually, that
is, short exposures, and then a rest period. Many times a foster dog is already
experiencing elevated stress levels due to leaving their previous environment. It is
advisable to take things slowly so as not to overwhelm them with too much stimulation
too quickly.
Whenever a dog is experiencing elevated stress levels, he is more susceptible to
displaying behavioral challenges or to acquiring physical health complications. Try to
put yourself in his place. Perhaps you will better understand how potentially
frightening all these changes can be.
Perhaps he has just been neutered or spayed, and is feeling the effects of anesthesia,
or maybe he has just received vaccines and is not feeling up to par. When you feel he
is ready, introduce him to the other family members (2 and 4 legged) SLOWLY and let
him tour his new home under supervision.
How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you are
going to quarantine the dog for a few days.
Bathing
Plan to bathe your foster dog as soon as possible once arriving in your care.
EXCEPTION: Do not bathe if extremely fearful, aggressive, or suspect he could be ill.
Check for any skin lesions or flea or tick infestations, particularly behind ears, between
toes and under arms.
Dog not Eating
It is very common for a foster dog arriving in a new home to refuse food until they feel
more settled. Sometimes, they will even refuse water. Days could potentially go by
before they are willing to eat. This places your foster dog in serious danger of having his
blood sugar dip too low, which can result in a hypoglycemic seizure. To prevent this, it is
imperative that they receive nutrients from day one of arriving in your care. If you detect
that they are not eating, immediate steps must be taken to ensure their safety. Notify
Jan Jorolan, or your Foster Team Leader immediately if your new foster is not eating or
drinking.
20
As a rule of thumb, please note the following guidelines:
A dog can go 24 hours without food if they are still drinking water. But, if
he goes 48 hours and is not eating, then medical help MUST be sought
even if he is still drinking. If he is not drinking, then medical care needs to
be found within 24 hours.
NutraStat is a product that is available through most pet supply catalog companies or
local pet supply retailers. It is always advisable to have a tube of this on hand. It is easy
to administer, and you may find that your foster dog readily accepts it. White Karo Syrup
is also a good remedy for low blood sugar. If your foster dog rejects it, don’t give up.
Place some on the tip of your finger and insert it into this mouth. Some dogs will also
accept a spoonful of canned dog food, or a little chicken and rice, even if they won’t eat
any dry kibble. Persistence in getting your foster dog to take in nutrients is a necessity.
Young puppies are especially vulnerable to waning blood sugar levels.
See HYPOGLYCEMIA
Housetraining
You will need to assess the dog’s level of housetraining, and respond accordingly.
Remember that a change in diet can cause intestinal distress, as can a stressful change
in environment, so be prepared for this eventuality with plenty of paper toweling and an
enzymatic cleaner (such as Nature’s Miracle) to clean up accidents. Make sure your
fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced area, in case he can
climb a fence. Or, in the case of a mill rescue, they may bolt to the far corner and try to
evade capture.
If the dog is not housetrained and you need help with this process, please contact your
Foster Team Leader, or Jan Jorolan. Please do not punish the dog for accidents,
rather ignore this behavior and take him outside. Show him where to go, and praise and
treat any successes. Sometimes, it is necessary for younger or untrained dogs to be
leashed to you, and taken out at regular intervals until they learn what is expected. YOU
are also learning during this period what signals the dog gives to let you know he needs
to go. The use of bellybands or potty pants is approved if necessary with the ultimate
goal being successful housetraining.
Housing
You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pen to be able to
confine a dog that is not housebroken or one who marks, yet allow him to be near you.
You may prefer an ex-pen or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and
pet the dog easily. Both fold down and can be moved to always be where you are. The
dog can stand, sit, lie down or stand on his hind legs without any restrictions. There is
room for food and water bowls and a bed.
An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or
bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate
and the dog see out, but safely confines him.
21
NOTE: Your foster dog must NEVER be left outside unsupervised, or housed out
of doors, tied to a stake, tethered or on a “trolley”.
Fill out the initial Foster Base Report form with as much information as possible and
email it to adopterspaps@yahoo.com as soon as possible. Email digital Photographs
to Jan Jorolan jorolan@catc.net as soon as you get the Pap home. We will get updated
photographs from you periodically but an immediate photo is needed to help identify
our new Pap.
Compose a short bio of the dog as soon as you can and email to Jan Jorolan. We will
get updated information periodically and adjust this bio as needed. Again, the initial
information is important for identification of the dog.
Vacations
Everyone needs to take a break from everyday life including fostering. However, please
let us know when you are leaving and when you expect to return and where your foster
will be during the time you are away. Make certain that whoever is caring for your foster
has all the contact information for Jan Jorolan, and your Foster Team Leader or Region
Team Leader. Also be sure that you leave detailed instructions of what to do in the
event of an emergency while you are gone and detailed instructions on the care of your
foster:
The name, phone number and address of your vet;
The feeding schedule of your foster and the brand of food to feed him or her;
Any health issues and if needed, a list of medications and when to administer
them; Phone numbers to reach you while you are away;
Make sure you send your fosters bed and favorite toys with him or her to
minimize the anxiety level; and, If possible, see if there is another foster in your
area that could take care of your doggie while you are gone. You could then
reciprocate when that foster needs time off.
If you have any concerns at all, please do not hesitate to contact: Jan Jorolan, Angela
Hubbard Foster Team Leader or your Region Team Leader immediately to address
these concerns.
22
Papillon Haven Rescue
Introducing Your New Dog to Your Resident Dog
Copyright 2000. Dumb Friends League. All rights reserved. (Used with permission)
Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called
a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce
conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories,
which they may defend against intruders or rivals. This social and territorial nature
affects their behavior when a new dog is introduced to their household.
Introduction Techniques
Choose A Neutral Location: Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your
resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog
should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them
to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If
you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, they may view
that park as their territory, so choose another site that’s unfamiliar to them.
Use Positive Reinforcement: At the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect
"good things" to happen when they’re in each other's presence. Let them sniff
each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in
a happy, friendly tone of voice never use a threatening tone of voice. Don’t allow
them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged time, as this may
escalate to an aggressive response. After a short time, get both dogs' attention,
and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit"
or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other
at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards and simple commands.
Be Aware Of Body Postures: One body posture that indicates things are going
well is a "play bow." One dog will crouch with their front legs on the ground and
her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly
behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an
aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth
bearing, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such
postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting
each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their
dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat. The dogs
will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from
escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a
shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.
Taking The Dogs Home: When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's
presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting
23
behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to
take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well
they ride in the car, how trouble free the initial introduction has been and how
many dogs are involved.
If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to
introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident
dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer. It is a very good idea
to not let your dogs and the new dog be together unsupervised for any length of
time.
Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs
Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months,
puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that
they’ve had enough. Well socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may
set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and
should be allowed. Adult dogs that aren’t well socialized, or that have a history
of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive
behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy
shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog until you’re confident the puppy isn’t in
any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy,
and perhaps, some individual attention as described above.
When to Get Help
If the introduction of a new dog to a household doesn’t go smoothly, contact
PapHaven’s behaviorist – Pat Schmidt - 513-831-0370, or a professional animal
behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer
the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between dogs in
the same family can often be resolved with professional help. Punishment won’t
work and could make things worse.
24
HOW TO GRADE YOUR DOG FOOD
Start with the grade of 100 (A+)
1. For every listing of by-product, subtract 10 points
2. For every non-specific animal source (meat or poultry, meal or fat) subtract 10 points
3. If the food contains BHA, BHT or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4. For every grain mill run or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
5. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients
(i.e. ground brown rice, brewers rice, rice flour are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6. If the protein source is not meat meals and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients,
subtract 3 points
7. If it contains artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8. If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points
9. If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points.
10. If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
11. If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources),
subtract 2 points
12. If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13. If it contains
subtract 2 points
wheat
(unless
you
know
your
dog
is
not
allergic
to
wheat),
14. If it contains beef (unless you know your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
15. If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
EXTRA CREDIT
1. IF ANY OF THE MEAT SOURCES ARE ORGANIC, ADD 5 POINTS
2. IF THE FOOD IS ENDORSED BY ANY MAJOR BREED GROUP OR
NUTRITIONIST, ADD 5 POINTS
3. IF THE FOOD IS BAKED NOT EXTRUDED, ADD 5 POINTS
4. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS PROBIOTICS, ADD 3 POINTS
5. IF THE FOOD CONTANTS FRUIT, ADD 3 POINTS
6. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS VEGETABLES (NOT CORN OR OTHER GRAINS),
ADD 3 POINTS
7. IF THE ANIMAL SOURCES ARE HORMONE-FREE, ADD 2 POINTS
8. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS BARLEY, ADD 2 POINTS
9. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS FLAX SEED OIL (NOT JUST THE SEEDS),
ADD 2 POINTS
25
10. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS OATS OR OATMEAL, ADD 1 POINT
11. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS SUNFLOWER OIL, ADD 1 POINT
12. FOR EVERY DIFFERENT SPECIFIC ANIMAL PROTEIN SOURCE (OTHER THAN
THE FIRST ONE; COUNT CHICKEN AND CHICKEN MEAL AS ONLY ONE
PROTEIN SOURCE, BUT CHICKEN AND DUCK AS 2 DIFFERENT SOURCES)
ADD 1 POINT
13. IF IT CONTAINS GLUCOSAMINE AND CHONDROITON, ADD 1 POINT
14. IF THE VEGETABLES HAVE BEEN TESTED FOR PESTICIDES AND ARE
PESTICIDE-FREE, ADD 1 POINT
GRADES
94-100= A
86-93 = B
78-85= C
70-77=D
69 = F
Reference: http://www.acreaturecomfort.com/ratingpetfood.htm
Posted on PappyCare
26
Papillon Haven Rescue HYPOGLYCEMIA
By Annette Davis (reprinted with permission)
Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is a possible problem with all toy breed puppies. Veterinarians
unfamiliar with toys often misdiagnose the condition as viral hepatitis or encephalitis. As a toy breeder
or pet owner, it is important to recognize the symptoms of hypoglycemia and know how to treat it.
Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress. Many puppies
are lost needlessly to hypoglycemia because of the ignorance on the part of their owner or
veterinarian.
The first sign of hypoglycemia is the puppy slowing down and then acting listless. The puppy will then
begin to tremble or shiver. This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose. The trembling
is followed by a blank stare and the puppy lying on his side. He may also experience convulsions.
After a time, the puppy will become comatose. His body will be limp, lifeless, and the tongue and
gums will be a grayish/blue color. The body temperature will be subnormal. The puppy may even
appear to be dead.
If caught in the early stages, treatment is simple. Rub NutriCal or Karo (white) syrup will do if you
have no NutriCal) on the puppy’s gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. (Caution –
do not use honey.) Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body
temperature. If the puppy responds, all is well. Feed a quality canned food right away (you may want
to mix it with egg yolk) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur. Be
sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible.
If caught in the more advanced stages, treatment is more complicated. Always assume that the
puppy is alive. Rub NutriCal or White Karo in the mouth, and carefully insert a small amount in the
rectum. Slowly warm the puppy to normal body temperature (101-102 degrees F) and keep him warm
continuously with light heat. If the puppy still does not respond, carefully eye dropper dextrose
solution or Karo water into the mouth, a little at a time. Call your veterinarian and inform him that you
have a hypoglycemic puppy. He will prepare a warmed dextrose solution to inject subcutaneously and
may put your puppy on an IV drip. Request a fecal exam. Your puppy may have intestinal parasites
such as worms, coccidia, or giardia that need to be eliminated immediately. A bacterial or viral
infection may also be present and antibiotic treatment necessary. If your puppy has been given
glucose injections, it is probably a good idea to treat him with antibiotics so that infection does not
occur. Your vet will likely recommend a prescription canned food such as a/d to give as your puppy
recovers. You can finger feed the a/d “as is” from the can and add Pedialyte to the drinking water.
You must also keep the puppy warm at all times. Of course use prudence, and do not overheat or
dehydration will occur. In severe cases you may need to force feed a/d for a time and give Pedialyte
with a dropper. Give B vitamins to stimulate appetite. As your puppy improves he will begin to eat on
his own and then you can gradually phase back in his regular food. It is important to understand that
just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia, it does not mean that the puppy is truly
“hypoglycemic.” True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the
pancreas. Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an
27
isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction to stress. Hypoglycemic incidents are almost always
preceded by a stress of some kind. Some examples of common stresses include: weaning; teething;
vaccinations; a change in environment; shipping; over handling; cold temperatures; intestinal
parasites; infections; anorexia; etc. Many puppies simply play too hard and stress their system or
forget to eat. I have heard of young males experiencing hypoglycemia when a female in heat is
around. They become so worked up over the female that they do not eat and their blood sugar drops.
Tiny dogs often do not have the fat reserves to supply adequate glucose in times of stress or when
they do not eat regularly. Hypoglycemia most often occurs when the puppy has not eaten for several
hours. This is not always the case, however. A puppy can have eaten recently and still show signs of
hypoglycemia if his system is stressed and the food has not been digested and assimilated. It is
important to “free feed” toy puppies a high quality food. Toy puppies simply have too high of an
energy level to be restricted to scheduled feedings. Most do fine if switched to scheduled feedings
when they reach adulthood, but they must have access to food and water at all times when they are
puppies. If you like to give your puppy canned food, you can schedule the feeding of the canned, but
allow access to kibble at all times.
A SUMMARY of IMPORTANT REMINDERS is as follows:
1. Always keep NutriCal or Karo (white corn syrup) on hand. This is the quickest way to
revive a hypoglycemic puppy.
2. If you ever see your puppy becoming listless, or laying on his side and acting
Unresponsive IMMEDIATELY rub NutriCal or Karo on his gums, under his tongue, and on
the roof of the mouth. Slowly warm him to normal body temperature with a heating pad.
Feed him as soon as he responds. Call your veterinarian if the puppy does not respond quickly.
3. Keep your puppy from chilling, free of parasites, and minimize stress.
4. See that your puppy eats often and maintains a proper body weight.
5. Do not over handle your puppy. Be sure to allow him rest time and alone time
like all babies, puppies need to have a regular schedule of rest, meals, play, and potty.
28
Papillon Haven Rescue
CRATE TRAINING
CRATE TRAINING: PHR recommends the use of crates with our foster Paps.
Puppies are supposed to be able to "hold it" for an hour for each month they are old.
This is a general guideline and not etched in stone! (i.e. a 4 month old should be
able to hold it for 4 hours)
What is crate training?
Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Have you ever seen
a dog under a table, chair or bed? The reason is that dogs naturally want to seek shelter, even in a
house. If you don't provide it, they will create it themselves in an effort to feel safe and secure. A
crate serves as a den for your dog.
Why should I crate train my dog?
Like babies, puppies cannot control their bladders until they mature (usually between 3 and 6
months). Dogs have a natural instinct to avoid eliminating in their dens. Therefore, confining your
puppy in his crate for the proper amount of time encourages him to "hold it" until you take him outside
for a walk.
What about housebreaking older dogs? (PHR uses the term “House Training”)
It is never too late to crate train your dog! The number one reason dogs end up in shelters is behavior
problems. Crate training, at any age, can help break bad habits and solve most of these problems.
How long do I need to use the crate?
Crates are not just for training, they are good for the lifetime of your dog. By providing a crate for
your dog, you are in essence providing him with his own bedroom. Crates are especially
important for older dogs that use it to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday family life, which
often includes small children or other pets that may harass them.
How safe is crate training? Crates are not just for training!
Dog crates are the best housetraining tool available. They provide a room for your dog while
protecting your home furnishings from damage. However, even a crate isn't an absolute safe harbor
for your pet. As per crate manufacturers’ warnings, you should always remove standard collars before
placing your dog in a crate for any length of time or if you are not at home. The only collar we
recommend as being safe when inside a crate is Premier's "KeepSafe" breakaway collar. Otherwise,
your dog is at risk for possible strangulation if his collar or ID tags become caught in the crate's bars.
Crate bumpers are the only bumpers made high enough to help prevent collar strangulation and other
crate related injuries.
29
Papillon Haven Rescue
Vetting Guidelines
When a new doggie comes into rescue, he/she is taken to a vet as soon as possible for an
evaluation. One of the Team Leaders or Directors usually confers with this examining vet for an
opinion of the health status. If there are ANY indications for needing further testing whether it is a
blood panel or special testing we will either request it at that time or with the vet that the Foster
Mom/Dad uses when the Pap arrives there. Each case is an individual assessment. (Remember, any
expenditure of $250 or over requires approval)
Our standard vetting request is: health evaluation (thorough check up); teeth; parasites;
(brucellosis short test – ONLY if from a commercial breeder, puppy mill or back yard breeder);
heart worm test; and bring up to date on basic vaccinations. This is followed with spay/neuter.
Should the health evaluation indicate more test are needed, then approval must be obtained.
SEE VETTING PROTOCOL a copy to be taken with the Pap to the first Vet appointment and placed
in the Pap’s folder as this establishes to the clinic what we will pay for.
When giving full coverage on vaccinations, delay the rabies until at least 10 days later, especially
for the small Paps. The Papillon breed has demonstrated, in a great enough percentage, that the
possibility of a negative reaction is very real. Spacing the rabies to a minimum of 10 days or later
will reduce the possibility of a multi-dose reaction.
We have had a case where one of our rescue doggies ran up a vet bill of over $1400 with specialist,
duplicate and multiple testing, and possibly duplicate billing. This rescue did not have any critical
health issues. Maybe the problems wouldn’t have been viewed as "routine" problems, but the vets
considered them "routine." The bottom line is that while this sweetie definitely needed to receive
medical attention, the excess funds spent for him/her meant we could not take into rescue 2 more
doggies. So keep in mind, there is always the "other" side to consider.
You will notice that in our Procedures and Guidelines, there is a cap on medical expenditures of
$250. When we approach this amount you will need to confer with the Team Leaders. This does not
mean we will not spend that amount, it just means we need to check our funds, etc. And if we are
low, then we will appeal to our donors so we can get it covered. So far, we have paid all our bills on
time.
We are financially supported WHOLLY by donations which means that there are times when funds
may be tight. We also have very generous members and supporters and have so far been able to
overcome any short falls in funds. But, this also means that we have to be prudent in our
expenditures. In an ideal world we could do all sorts of testing for a new rescue, but we are a rescue
group and all of you already know there is nothing ideal about this work.
30
Papillon Haven Rescue
VETTING PROTOCOL
(take to vet clinic-leave in Pap’s file)
There MUST be a statement within the vet clinic records that this Papillon or Pap mix is owned
by Papillon Haven Rescue. No exception.
1) Bath (prior to any surgeries)
2) Brucellosis Test (if from sub-standard kennels such as puppy mills or backyard breeders)
WAIT for Brucellosis test results before proceeding further.
(Use an in-office Brucellosis test if possible - slide test)
If the Brucellosis test is positive, then we do the long Brucellosis test sent off to a lab and get a confirmation on positive
finding. If after the 2nd test it is positive, then we will have to put them down.
Must first be confirmed with DVM of our group.
If the Brucellosis is negative or the rescue is NOT from a sub-standard kennel or puppy mill proceed to number 3.
3) Heart Worm Test (if positive dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before proceeding with
spay/neuter/dental)
4) Give Basic Vaccinations and Bordetella (parvo, distemper and rabies)
(spread the vaccinations, putting as much time as available between the basic shots and the rabies shot to help
prevent a reaction – recommend 10 days minimum)
NOTE: we do not give lepto and corona. (Exception: Lepto in Southern states or outbreak where local ordinance
will require it)
5) Health Check Up (everything, heart, teeth, eyes, ears, legs, etc.)
weight and height (please provide vet findings to Jan Jorolan)
6) Parasite check (fecal)
If heartworm is positive the dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before
continuing to number 8.
7) Treat infections
8) Schedule Spay/Neuter/Dental
9) Interceptor/Iverhart Max: near end of boarding time IF BOARDED, please give each pap a single dose of
Interceptor, Iverheart Max or Heart Guard. (we do not use Revolution or similar brands)
Puppies:
If puppies are approximately 5 to 7 months old, and the attending veterinarian agrees, we will start on HW preventative
without testing. No Brucellosis test for puppies unless they show signs.
QUESTIONS: Contact Jan Jorolan 501-865-4442 jorolan2@yahoo.com
NOTE: PapHaven must keep all adoptable Paps vaccinated annually (except rabies) in order
to adopt and transport to a new adoptive owner.
31
32
Papillon Haven Rescue
STEP by STEP
Hopefully this information will help guide you when you get your foster fur baby from PapHaven
whether it is the first time or after many times.
Upon receiving your foster Pap, please keep them separate from your own fur babies. This is important
especially until your new foster has been given a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. It will also
make the transition easier for your new foster by serving to maintain order, reduce conflict and
promote cooperation among pack members. The stress level will be lower for a foster and your own fur
babies if they are given a chance to meet your pack one at a time.
As soon as received please put a collar with a PHR tag on your new foster. This is the most dangerous
time for them. They are frightened, skittish and could bolt. Having identification could be the difference
in life and death at this time. If you need a PHR tag these can be obtained from your Foster Team
Leader, Debra Goetz, or Jan Jorolan.
Prepare and submit an Base Profile Foster Report form (the form is contained in this Foster Handbook).
The initial Foster Report and biweekly Foster Reports are the key piece of information for matching a
rescued pap with an adoption candidate. Please be specific. This is an excellent opportunity to speak
on behalf of your foster.
If your foster Pap is an owner surrender, from a shelter or other rescue group then arrange for a vet
clinic appointment immediately. A health checkup should be done as soon as possible as part of the
vetting protocol included in this foster handbook. This is very important to protect yourself and your
other dogs from any potential problems. It also is crucial for us to plan for vet expenses that may be
needed. Of course any treatment needed and/or other testing should follow our Vetting Protocol
guidelines. Please review our Vetting Protocol.
(NOTE: If your foster Pap is from a commercial, substandard breeder, puppymill or
backyard breeder, we normally have already had the vetting completed prior to reaching
you. But the first two items in this list still apply.)
Here are the goals (in order) that we hope to achieve during fostering. These are the things you will be
working on together with your Foster Team Leader. These are the minimum standards for PHR in order
to help a rescued pap be ready for adoption and improve chances of a successful adoption.
o
o
o
o
o
o
Restore Health
Socialize
House Train
Crate Train
Leash Train
Weight Management
Communicate with our Foster Team Leader and/or appropriate Team Leader. Staying in touch is very
important. Since email is our primary communications too, please read your email regularly. Be familiar
with the PHR fostering resources available to you.
33
Papillon Haven Rescue
IF YOU PLAN TO FOSTER OR APOPT A MILL DOG
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO READ THIS
Important Tips for Your Puppymill Rescues
Papillons that are rescued from puppy mills often have unique requirements as far as placement and also
as far as adjustment. We place puppy mill rescues into new homes after varying levels of
socialization/rehabilitation based on the dog and the adoptive family. Even if your dog has been in foster
care for some time, the following tips might help explain some of your new rescue’s behavior.
LEASH TRAINING
Puppymill rescues have never been on leashes before. In the mill there was no need for them, so their first
experience with a leash was most likely during transport and foster care and trips to the vet. It is wise to use
a harness and leash with all mill rescues vs. a collar. Many are neck sensitive due to mishandling at the mill.
They also can slip out of a collar much easier than with a harness. Start slow with leash desensitization all
walks need to be stress free in your own backyard at first, then a quiet street, etc. Always be sure there are
no noisy children or bicycles, etc. Use a soft voice, praise and treats every time you walk your pap.
FEAR OF BEING HELD OR LIFTED
Puppymill rescues were routinely mishandled and/or abused in their prior life. That leaves them with a strong
fear of being lifted, approached from behind, grabbed, and touched over the head. Start slow with your mill
rescue. Leave them on a long leash at first so you do not need to corner or chase them. Do not ever grab
them from behind. Always let them see your outstretched hand and approach them from the front. Do not
use sudden movements or a fast approach slow and steady is the key to success. Quiet, easy petting while
talking to them in a soothing voice is the right approach.
TREATS/PRAISE
Always have a steady stream of tempting treats on hand. Use canned cheese, liver treats and other highly
detectable treats (stinky) to try and tempt them. Sit quietly on the floor with the dog and sprinkle treats
around your feet/legs. Always give them a tidbit for every positive behavior. Ignore the negative.
DIET
Puppy mill rescues need an extremely high quality, easy to digest diet. We recommend quality kibble
diet that with easy digestibility. Supplement diet with fresh fruits/vegetables and meat. Mill rescues benefit
from Vitamin C and Eicosaderm supplement in their food. That helps with coat growth and dry skin.
…...
BATHING
Mill Rescues require gentle grooming with a shampoo/rinse designed for dogs with sensitive or
dry skin. Natural shampoo products along with an oatmeal crème rinse work best. You’ll notice the yellowing
of the coat diminishing after each bath. Soft bristled brushes are recommended. Gentle slow brushing is best.
HOUSETRAINING
In a puppy mill, dogs live in wire cages out in the elements. They never learn to
"hold it" and urinate/defecate whenever they feel the urge. Crate training will help your new mill rescue to
learn to hold it. Do not expect them to hold it longer than four hours. Keep the dog and the crate spotless at
all times. If they have a setback, do not get discouraged this part of rehabilitation takes some time. Treat the
new rescue as if it were a puppy. Leash them to your body and watch them all of the time if you cannot watch
34
them, crate them. Never punish the dog for an accident. They do not understand. Ignore the accidents and
praise them when they potty outside. Never ever rub their nose in it or hit them (even lightly) with a
newspaper. Be consistent and diligent, but do not stress over the housetraining – it will come in time. Trust us
on this one.
TOYS
Dogs rescued from puppy mills have never seen or played with toys. Do not expect your Pap to learn to play
ball, etc. right away. Start out with nonthreatening soft, lightweight toys. Just leave them lying around the
house and eventually they will pick them up.
OTHER PETS
Mill rescues benefit greatly from a healthy, well-adjusted dog in the home. That is why we usually only place
them in homes with other pets. They need to watch and learn from another dog. Your dog will guide the new
rescue and teach them that life is ok and that humans are good. They normally form an amazing bond and
become fast friends.
FEARS
Puppy mill dogs are raised without love, human contact or interaction. Many things will be foreign to a mill
rescue that would not be to a dog raised in a home. Things such as fear of steps, furniture, different surfaces,
grass, etc. are to be worked thru slowly and carefully. Desensitizing your Pap to these different situations are
all basically the same go slow and use a lot of treats, praise and love. Placing treats on the steps for example,
will entice your Pap to use them. Slowly place your Pap up on the couch next to you for petting and don't be
upset if they won't stay up there with you for longer than a minute at first. Time is the key here. Introduce
them to things such as a vacuum cleaner, broom, fly swatter, etc. by letting them see that it is nothing to fear.
Give them praise/treats when they are near the object. Some things take longer than others but it will come in
time.
EATING POOP Cophragia is a habit that is common with mill rescues and although disgusting, it is not
something to get all upset about. A high quality diet as mentioned above, supplemented with fresh pineapple,
spinach or a digestive enzyme will stop this behavior. Our best advice is to keep your yard picked up and pick
up after your pet (you are already out there with your Pap since you need to praise him/her anyway.) If there
is no poop, there is nothing to eat but the tasty treats you are offering.
SOCIALIZATION
After your pet trusts YOU completely (and not before), start taking them on trips to
friends or to PetSmart/PetCo. Do not attempt this for 3 months minimum depending on the dog. Your new dog
needs time to learn to love you and your family. You have a whole lifetime to show off your new Pap. Please
do not rush this.
By: Lisa Bakalars
Used with permission from Lisa Bakalars.
www.widogrescue.com
CUR #550, HWT Member
See Betsy's Story at www.nopuppymills.com/betsy.html
35
Papillon Haven Rescue
Foster Forms
(Also found on the Admin Site: Look FORMS & DOCUMENTS – Fosters)
Following this page will be many of the forms that you will be using during your time as a Foster
Home for our precious Papillons. The Foster Guidelines Handbook is a work in progress and any
suggestions, information or input would be appreciated. We all “learn as we go” when we do fostering
so your experiences will be helpful to others. Please let us know what you would like to see added to
this manual that will help the experienced as well as the new foster parents care for their charges.
There will be additional “inserts” or an “add on” of different subject matters, but important for our
continuing education. Please add these to your 3 ring notebook Foster Handbook.
Remember that the Admin website lists everyone and their contact information. Please contact
Jan Jorolan, your Foster Team Leader, Debra Goetz or Regional Leaders if you have questions,
need help or just need someone to give you an ear for venting.
Thank you again!
36
Papillon Haven Rescue
2014
Reimbursement Form
DOG'S NAME: ____________________________________Date:________________
AMOUNT TO BE REIMBURSED: ____________________________________________
NANE OF PERSON REQUESTING REIMBURSEMENT:______________________________
______________________________________________________________________
ADDRESS: _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
PHONE NUMBER: ________________________________________________________
EMAIL ADDRESS: _______________________________________________________
REIMBURSEMENT CHECK SHOULD BE MAILED TO: (if different than above)
NAME: _______________________________________________________________
ADDRESS: ____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
PLEASE PRINT AND MAIL A COPY OF THIS COMPLETED FORM together
WITH THE ORIGINAL BILL/BILLS Paid receipt + vet records
TO:
Papillon Haven Rescue
c/o Donna Moore
1440 Mt. Vista Drive
Knoxville, TN 37920
If you have questions direct them to:
Donna Moore
hezekiahmoore@hotmail.com
865-573-1309
Or
jorolan@catc.net
501-865-4442 501-815-2766 c
37
Papillon Haven Rescue
PAPHAVEN FOSTER BASE PROFILE
(To be completed after the first week in your home and updated as conditions or behavior change – send to email below)
Foster Dog’s Name: __________________________
Date: ____________
Foster Parents Name: ________________________
State:____________
1. Is dog on PHR web page: YES/NO
2. Is dog ready for PHR web page? If not, why:
3. Health Issues: ___________________________________________________________________
4. Current Height: __________________________ Current Weight:___________
5. Meds being given: ________________________________________________________________
Vaccinations – date given: _________________________________________________________
Due Date:______________________________
HW preventative (brand): _________________
Date last given: _____________________
(Provided by PapHaven – contact Foster Team Leader)
6. Behavior:
Biter: YES/NO
Barker: YES/NO
Aggressive: YES/NO
Good with small children: YES/NO
Older children: YES/NO
Good with other dogs: YES/NO
Cats: YES/NO
Other pets: YES/NO (if yes, type):
Needs fenced yard: YES/NO
Needs stay-at-home adopter: YES/NO
Crate Trained: YES/NO
House Trained: YES/NO
Coprophagic (ingests feces): YES/NO
Resource Guarder: YES/NO
Dominant (alpha): YES/NO
Playful with Toys: YES/NO
Playful with other Dogs: YES/NO
People: YES/NO
7. Issues that must be addressed to be ready for adoption (please list):
________________________________________________________
8. Estimate, if you are able, of when dog might be ready for adoption:
____________________________________________________________________________
9. Three to five adjectives that best describe your foster dog’s personality:
____________________________________________________________________________
10. Do you need a PHR dog tag? Yes/No
Note: The information received from this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven
committees to ensure we have the most current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the
most suitable forever home for each Pap.
PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to
adopterspaps@yahoo.com Include your name and state in the Subject Line.
11/011/jj
38
PAPHAVEN FOSTER BI-WEEKLY UPDATE
(to be completed bi-weekly on Sunday and submitted to adopterspaps@yahoo.com and your regional team leader)
Foster Dog’s Name: ____________________
Date: ______________________
Foster Parents Name: ______________________
State: ________________
1. Is dog on web page: YES/NO
2. What are the issues keeping the dog from being listed on the web page:
____________________________________________________________________________
3. Any new behavioral issues: YES/NO (if yes, describe)
____________________________________________________________________________
4. Any new health issues or change in medication: YES/NO (if yes, describe)
____________________________________________________________________________
5. Meds being given: _______________________________________________________________
HW preventative (brand): ____________________
Date last given: ______________
6. When would you anticipate the dog will be ready for adoption: _____________________________
7. Please comment briefly on how training is progressing in the three areas below:
House Trained: ______________________________________
Crate Trained: ______________________________________
Leash Trained: _____________________________________
9. Other comments______________________________________________________________
10. Do you need a PHR dog tag (s)? Y/N
NOTE: If information pertaining to the type of home needed based on the dog’s behavior has changed since
the original base profile was submitted, please submit an updated base profile. The information received from
this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven committees to ensure we have the most
current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the most suitable forever home for each dog.
PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to
adopterspaps@yahoo.com and your regional team leader. Include your name and state in
the Subject Line
11/011 rf-jj
39
PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE
IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT
In the event that I, _________________________________ am incapacitated and unable to make
my wishes known regarding my dog(s), please honor the following requests:
________________________________________________is to be contacted as soon as possible at
the following phone number: _____________________.
Call collect and mention my name. If the above phone number cannot be reached, contact
________________________ at the following phone number ____________________. All expenses
for the dog(s) will be paid by them.
If the dog(s) are not injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable boarding kennel, and
be kept there in the best possible manner, until such time as arrangements can be made for their
transport home. If the dog(s) are injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable
veterinarian, I prefer that my own veterinarian, _____________________________ at
__________________________ , be contacted regarding decisions about the dog'(s) care and
treatment. If any dog is injured beyond all hope of recovery, that dog is to be humanely euthanized.
Photos and descriptions of my dog(s) are attached along with their health records. These dogs are
tattooed on the _______________ or micro chipped with this/these identification
numbers:_______________________________________ .
The welfare of my dog(s) is my primary concern.
Name: _________________________________________________________________
Address:________________________________________________________________
City, State, Zip: __________________________________________________________
Phone: _________________________________________________________________
Signed: _______________________________ Date: __________________________
OTHER EMERGENCY CONTACTS:
NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE:__________________________________________________
40
Papillon Haven Rescue
TRANSFER AGREEMENT
Dog’s Name: ____________________________________________________________
Sex: ______ Age: _____ Color/Markings: ________________________________
Tattoo/Microchip number: ________________________
I hereby release and transfer guardianship of the aforementioned dog to:
(Print the Name of the Next Guardian)
I hereby release and transfer all papers, all vaccinations and veterinary records for the
aforementioned dog, which has been obtained during the Rescue Process and/or Rehabilitation. It
is acknowledged the rightful ownership of the aforementioned dog is with Papillon Haven Rescue.
There shall be no release or transfer to persons as guardians other than those determined by
Papillon Haven Rescue.
I hereby release Papillon Haven Rescue, Representatives and Volunteers from all past, current and
future expenses or liability, incurred during my guardianship of the aforementioned dog, except as
agreed.
Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________
(Person Transferring to New Guardian)
Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________
(Person Accepting as New Guardian Receiving Dog)
The Transfer form is used when your foster is being sent to his or her forever home or to a different
foster home. You will use this form if you are not the person delivering the doggie to its new home. A
copy of this form is needed for each person that will help in the transport of your foster to its next
destination.
41
Papillon Haven Rescue
ADOPTION FEES
Fees are reviewed by Directors Annually
0-2 years = $425
3-4 years = $375
5-7 years = $350
8-9 years = $300
10 - ? years $200
Special = older/blind/etc. to be determined
Pap mix $200-$250 Based on age, health and mix
The adoption fee covers
The charge to “pull” the dog from a shelter (most shelters charge approx. $95-150)
Vet expenses including
•
•
•
•
•
•
Full health checkup
Spay/neuter (all rescue Paps will be spayed and/or neutered PRIOR to adoption)
Vaccines including rabies
Heartworm test and treatment if needed Heartworm preventative
Any other vet expenses such as a dental or hernia repair
Brucellosis test when needed
NOTE:
The ADOPTION FEE is to help defray expenses for ALL Papillons or Papillion mixes in our rescue program.
42
Papillon Haven Rescue
Holiday Adoptions
As most of you know, there is always a demand for doggies (and other animals) for Christmas and
Holiday presents. And as many of you know, this is a VERY traumatic time for bringing in a new pet
to a home full of decorations, parties, family gatherings, noise, yummy foods, and all the other things
that go along with the holiday season.
It has been the policy and practice of our PHR group from the beginning to stop delivery of adoptions
on or about the 15th of December. This is in the best interest of the rescued Pap as they need lots of
adjustment time in the new surroundings and attention. We will neither stop taking adoption
applications nor stop making adoptions. But adoptions approved during this time will be delivered
AFTER the holidays.
Just for your information: it is estimated that well over 50 percent of animals given as gifts for
Christmas or other Holidays do not find a forever home and/or have a negative traumatic event.
43
Papillon Haven Rescue
General Fostering Policy Summary
(As stated in various PHR documents and forms)
Vetting needs MUST have an estimate prior to event. Any amounts at or above $250 require preapproval.
Within the Vet Clinic record it must be stated this Pap is owned by PHR. It may not be shown as owned by the
foster mom/dad.
PHR Vetting Protocol must be followed and a copy given to the Vet Clinic.
PHR will only pay for items listed on the Vetting Protocol without prior agreement.
Reimbursement request MUST be received within 30 days of transaction. Send vet records and notes to
Jan Jorolan immediately. Do not delay please. Reimbursement request go to Donna Moore.
Minimum fostering period of three weeks with required update reports and conferencing with Foster Team
Leader and Adoption Team Leader. (Possible exceptions on case by case basis) Feeding Requirements are a
quality kibble except in approved and/or RX situations.
ALL PHR paps will be maintained on Heart Worm preventative YEAR ROUND.
PHR Foster Handbook is required reading for all foster moms/dads and should be printed out for reference.
The Verification of “I Have Read the Foster Handbook” should be signed and mailed or scanned and sent to
the Foster Team Leader. Debra Goetz . The current handbook can always be downloaded from the PapHaven
Admin site for reference.
No PHR Rescue Pap may be given to or left with a potential adopter or interested party until the Adoption
Process is completed and approved by Adoption Team.
Registration and original paper work must be sent to Jan Jorolan immediately. Registration papers are
confidential and do not follow the pap to adopters.
Admin Site (http://admin.paphaven.org/) is a ready reference for anything having to do with PapHaven or any
documents required. All foster moms/dads need to be proficient in access and use of the PapHaven
Administrative (Admin) site. Instructions and/or coaching available upon request.
Christmas Holiday Adoptions will not take place after the second week in December however application
processing will continue. Placement will begin after the first of the year.
Transporting any of our paps requires a harness with leash plus collar with tags. Paps MUST travel in
a hard sided crate at all times. The harness should be of the standard style, not figure 8 or step-in
style. PHR tags are provided to all foster homes. You may obtain through the Foster Team Leader.
Debra Goetz.
PapHaven does not air ship our rescue papillons.
44
See example of approved Standard style and not approved Figure 8 style Harnesses:
Good
not good
Required Documents for each foster mom/dad.
(Forms are available from the ADMIN Site web)
1. Foster Application
2. Home Visit performed/report
3. General Representative Application (membership requirement)
4. Verification of Reading Foster Handbook
5. Bite Waiver
6. Hold Harmless Agreement
45
Animal CPR
Save a Life:
A. Airway
The first step in animal CPR,
after determining nonresponsiveness, is to obtain a
For the EMS Provider and Pet Owner
patent airway. You should not
continue on, until this step has
been achieved.
Learn Animal CPR
Lori H. Feldman, DVM
Henry J. Feldman, MA EMT-M
(c) 1996
Dr. Feldman is a Massachusetts and
New York Licensed Veterinarian and
a member of the Veterinary
Emergency and Critical Care Society.
This document is primarliy aimed at
EMS and Emergency Medical
personel who may encounter animals
in arrest.
Pet owners should consult their
veterinarian for specific details on
procedures outlined here.
web:
http://members.aol.com/henryhbk
email: henryhbk@aol.com
A. Heimlich
After attempting to ventilate:
1. Turn the animal upside down, with
its back against your chest
2. With both arms, give 5 sharp
thrusts (bear hugs) to the abdomen.
Perform each thrust as if it is the
one that will expel the object
3. Stop, check to see if the object is
visible in the airway, if so, remove
it and give 2 mouth-nose rescue
breaths. If the breaths do not go in,
go back to step 1
1. Carefully pull the tongue
out of the animal's mouth
WARNING: even an
unresponsive dog may
bite by instinct!!
2. Make sure that the neck
is reasonably straight; try
to bring the head in-line
Use gravity to help you expel the object
with the neck.
WARNING: Do not
hyperextend in cases
where neck trauma exists
3. Attempt 2 rescue
breaths, by closing the
mouth, and performing
mouth-to-nose
ventilations. If they go in
Do not proceed with CPR, even if the
with no problems
animal goes into cardiac arrest. You
continue to B-Breathing.
4. Reposition the neck and must clear the airway first.
try step 3 again.
5. Visibly inspect the
airway by looking into
the mouth, and down the
throat for foreign objects
occluding the airway.
Unlike human-CPR,
rescuers may reach into
the airway and remove
foreign objects that are
visible
6. Proceed to the Heimlich
maneuver
46
B. Breathing
1. After achieving a patent
airway, one must determine
whether the animal is
breathing, and whether this
breathing is effective:
2. Carefully pull the tongue out
of the animalÕs mouth
WARNING: even an
unresponsive dog may bite by
instinct!!
3. Make sure that the neck is
reasonably straight; try to
bring the head in-line with the
neck.
WARNING: Do not
hyperextend in cases where
neck trauma exists
4. Ventilate the animal by
closing the mouth, and
performing mouth-to-nose
ventilations. If they do not go
in with ease go to A-Airway
5. Ventilate at 20 breaths per
minute If supplemental
Oxygen is available, and the
animal is breathing on its own,
use a high-flow blowby.
WARNING: Do not attempt to
intubate the animal, without
prior training, and properly
sized ET tubes.
6. Proceed to C-Circulation,
while continuing respiratory
support as necessary
C. Circulation E. Extra
This is the final step of CPR and
should only be initiated after the
airway and breathing steps have
been completed:
1.
2.
3.
4.
During an emergency it is very important
that you remain calm. Animals can sense
your unease, but cannot understand what is
happening and you cannot verbally tell
them. Your body language is very
Make sure that there are important. Be calm, yet deliberate in your
no major
actions.
(pooling/spurting blood)
points of bleeding.
When you determine that you either have
Control as necessary
corrected the life-threatening problem, or
Lay the animal on its
are unable to stabilize the animal, you
right side
should transport to the nearest emergency
Locate your hands where veterinary hospital.
its left elbow touches the
chest. Approximately the Notify your emergency clinic that you are
middle of the rib-cage
coming in with a dog in respiratory arrest
Compress the chest 15 with a foreign body airway obstruction
times followed by 2
and/or cardiac arrest.
rescue breaths (3
compressions every 2
Give them the following information via
seconds)
phone if possible:
Compress
• 1/2" - small dogs
• Your name
• 1" - medium dogs
• Your ETA
<
• Steps taken (CPR, O2...)
• 1.5" - large dogs
• Breed/size
Repeat as necessary
• If a foreign body, what the
suspected object is
• If a poison or medication has been
ingested
• Mechanism of injury (hit by car...)
Write the phone number of the 24 hour
animal hospital nearest you here:
Important:
Animals do not have palpable
carotid pulses. You can only
obtain a femoral pulse in the
inguinal crease. (Palpate
carefully on a conscious dog!)
Insert # 4
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DENTAL DISEASE
Your pet has been diagnosed with dental disease. Dental disease is the most common disease problem
affecting dogs and cats. Unfortunately, it is also the most under addressed issue in veterinary medicine. This is
in part due to lack of dental education available in veterinary colleges. We are pleased to have Dr. Chris M.
Carter, who has a special interest in veterinary dentistry and is constantly pursuing advanced training in this
field. This will allow us to offer you higher levels of care for your beloved companions.
Signs of dental disease include but are not limited to:
• Gingivitis
• Tartar accumulation
• Bad breath
• Excessive drooling
• Reluctance to play with favorite toy
• Repeated sneezing
• Behavior change (lethargy, biting, restlessness)
• Chews on one side of mouth
If dental disease is left untreated, it can lead to more serious problems such as heart disease, lung
disease, and liver and kidney failure, which can shorten your pet’s life. In order to fully evaluate the extent of
disease present, we recommend a complete dental cleaning, polishing and fluoride treatment. Next, we perform
a dental exam, where each tooth is evaluated for the presence of abnormalities that need to be addressed. This
procedure requires general anesthesia which does have a small risk factor involved. However, the risk of
dental disease is much higher than the risk of anesthesia. Also, anesthetic agents are safer than ever and
advances in technology allow us to screen for many conditions that could cause complications. During the
procedure, we can take additional steps to ensure a rapid, safe recovery from anesthesia. These include
intravenous fluid administration, electronic vital signs monitoring, and normal body temperature maintenance.
Eighty percent of all dental disease occurs below the gum line. This is called periodontal disease.
Periodontal disease is characterized by bone loss around the tooth as well as severe infection and loose painful
teeth. There may even be bleeding of the gums, bad breath and abscess formation. This disease can only be
confirmed with oral x-rays. Most animals will benefit greatly from full mouth x-rays at the time of the dental
cleaning and exam. After the cleaning, exam, and x-rays, we will call you and discuss any options for further
treatment.
For more information visit the American Veterinary Dental Society website at www.AVDS-online.org.
Choose the RESOURCES heading then choose DENTISTRY ARCHIVES then choose the different topics.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Avoid feeding pets table scraps because they can increase the build up of plaque and tartar, and can lead to
other health problems.
There are several ways you can care for your pet’s teeth every day.
A complete home dental care program for your pet often will include brushing as well as a special pet food that
helps care for your pet’s teeth while he or she eats.
Even if you aren’t able to brush your pet’s teeth every day, by incorporating a special pet food into your pet’s
daily routine, you can provide the dental care needed to keep your pet healthy. Be sure to talk with your
veterinarian about the options that exist and which are right for you and your pet.
48
BRUSHING YOUR PET’S TEETH
Step 1:
Introduce a brushing program to pets gradually. Avoid over-restraining your pet and keep the brushing sessions
short and positive. A cat or small dog can be held in your lap. Praise and reassure your pet throughout the
process.
Step 2: At first, dip a finger into a beef or chicken bouillon; or tuna water for cats. Rub the soaked finger
gently over the pet’s mouth and teeth. Make the initial sessions short and positive.
Step 3: Gradually introduce gauze over your finger and gently scrub the teeth in a circular motion.
Step 4: Finally, you can introduce a soft toothbrush designed for pets. Use a sensitive or ultra-soft brush
designed for pets.
When and How to Brush Your Dog's Teeth
Bello
bad
Dental health is just as important for dogs as it is for humans. Healthy dog teeth are an important part
of having a healthy dog. Bacteria in the mouth can spread to other parts of the body and cause
serious infections, just like they can in humans. That’s why, ideally, you should be brushing your
dog’s teeth once a day, just like you would your own.
1. Make certain you are using a tooth paste or cleaning product that is designed for dogs.
Human toothpastes have chemicals in them that can be toxic to a dog if swallowed. Since
there’s no good way to keep your dog from swallowing the things you put in his mouth (Have
you ever seen a dog spit? Me neither.)You should only use special toothpaste for dogs that
you find in the pet supply aisle.
2. Take your time. Before you even start using a toothbrush, allow your dog to get used to
having your hands near his mouth. While the two of you are nice and relaxed, use your fingers
to stroke his cheek like you would when you start brushing his teeth. You should also let him
taste the special toothpaste for dogs, which he will discover is a tasty treat.
3. Introduce the tooth brush. The first few times you introduce the tooth brush, you’ll probably
only end up brushing a few dog teeth at a time. Eventually, you can slowly work up to brushing
all of your dog’s teeth, especially the ones at the back. Don’t worry about the insides. If you
only brush dog teeth on the outside, you’ll still get most of the plaque.
4. Stop while it’s still fun. Whatever you do, you don’t want to make your dog afraid of the tooth
brush. If you always stop brushing your dog’s teeth while he’s still enjoying it, and praise him
and snuggle him for the time he’s spent with you, then tooth-brushing time will be a fun time for
49
both of you to look forward to. That way you’ll be able to happily brush dog teeth without a
struggle.
One of the biggest advantages of brushing your dog’s teeth regularly, and starting from an early age,
is that if you can keep your dog’s teeth clean and healthy then you may be able to avoid having to
take your dog for a professional dog teeth cleaning. Since a professional dog teeth cleaning involves
placing your dog under anesthesia, it’s something most pet parents would probably prefer to avoid.
Quick Tip: When confronted by dog bad breath, don’t just pick up a tooth brush—talk to your vet.
Although bad oral hygiene is most often the cause of a dog’s bad breath, it could reflect other health
problems.
Insert #5
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PAPILLON HAVEN MICROCHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS
If your foster does not have a chip, Lisa Winters wintersjazz@aol.com will send you
a PapHaven Home Again chip. Email her with your address and the dog’s name.
[If your foster already has a chip, ownership needs to be transferred to PHR
using the contact information below. Call the chip company, give them the chip
number and they will contact the chip owner for permission to transfer the
number to us.]
To register a PHR chip, either call 1-866-802-5650 or go to
homeagain.com/chipfurkeeps/home.jsp. Our petfinder ID number will be
required: OH678.
The initial contact on the form is Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Jan Jorolan. (AR
501-815-2766). The secondary contact is Andy Watson (TX 979-968-6350).
The email for both is adopterspaps@yahoo.com. The snail mail for both is
Papillon Haven Rescue, POB 20306, Hot Springs, AR 71903.
Please call with any questions. Thanks for your cooperation. This is a real
money saver for PHR.
Debra Goetz dagoetz123@yahoo.com Foster Home Team Leader
insert #6
50
HEART WORM INFLITRATION IS IN EVERY STATE IN THE USA
PapHaven provides heart worm preventatives for all PHR foster Pappies.
We require it be given year round.
We also provide flea/tick preventatives and it is required given year round.
Contact our PHR Meds Manager: Antoinette (Toni) Johnson
TygV26@aol.com
or Dodi5468@yahoo.com
Posted on PappyCare site
51
Example of HOW TO MARK the top of a hard-sided crate.
Use water proof felt marker.
Contact Crate Monitor Sharon McGowan for the needed Crate number.
52