$77,5( ɑȨȇǸȵ - Attire Bridal magazine

Transcription

$77,5( ɑȨȇǸȵ - Attire Bridal magazine
$77,5(
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 ISSUE 32
CHRISTMAS
is coming
Festive tips from
boutique owners
ɑȨȇǸȵ
European
FOCUS
Adaptable gowns
Top labels from
across the Channel
Flexible and affordable
TEC2013
PREVIEW
Your esse
n
show guidtial
e
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LINGERIE
Plus
The perfect way to
support dress sales
Business
advice
News and events
Collection focus
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Regulars
12
Industry news
Up-to-the-minute information on
news and events from the British
bridal trade
66
Hine insurance
Everything you need to know about
protecting your retail business over the
festive season
71
Shop window
With the new series of Downton
Abbey on screen now, Nancy Hayes
creates an eye-catching bridal window
display inspired by the popular series
72
Retailer roundup
Bridal boutique owners talk shop
78
ACID
Dids Macdonald, CEO of Anti
Copying in Design (ACID), has the
latest on intellectual property rights
82
Time to launch
Nicola Russill-Roy, PR Director of
Propose PR, offers retailers some advice
on marketing their business
85
Twitter update
We bring you all the hottest news, stats
and facts from our followers
90
Isabella Grace
Rebecca Doyle contemplates the
second year of trading for her bridal
boutique, Isabella Grace
71
Shop window
42
To cap it off
The Fashion Files
42
To cap it off
Sleeves are big news this season. We
showcase some fabulously feminine
bridal gowns, featuring delicate details
49
The collections
The perfect accessories to match our
two key bridal themes
51
Time to shine
These softly shimmering wedding
dresses ensure your bride will be centre
of attention from day to night
Columns
17
British Bridalwear Association
Ex-Chair Joe Sweeney takes an indepth look at the UK bridal industry to
predict where it’s heading
27
Ellie Sanderson
Award-winning bridal retailer,
Ellie Sanderson, shares her recent
experience of changing her merchant
services provider
74
Nikki Graeme
Our new trade show columnist –
boutique owner Nikki Graeme –
reviews the recent British
Bridal Exhibition in Harrogate
51
Time to shine
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67
Mother of
the Bride
Features
56
Up and
coming
20
Adaptable gowns
Brides are increasingly searching for a
bespoke look – we take a look at
innovative ideas from some of the UK’s
most exciting designers
24
Retailer profile
Bridal designer and now retailer,
Melanie James, reveals how she’s
enjoying her first few months of trading
31
68
xx
Retailer
interview
xxxxxxx
Man on a mission
In recognition of the huge contribution
Joe Sweeney has made to the UK bridal
trade, we speak to the former Chairman
of the British Bridalwear Association
(BBA) to find out how it all began
28
Enzoani
Following a dramatic departure from
Benjamin Roberts, Enzoani is making
waves in the British bridal market.
Jeanette Stevens, President of Enzoani
UK, fills us in on the brand’s plans
38
The apprentice
A growing number of independent
retailers are using the Government’s
National Apprenticeships Service. We
find out the benefits
64
Grace Harrington Couture
Following a successful show at The
Essential Collection 2012, we speak
to H.J. Park, Manager at Grace
Harrington Couture, about what the
future holds for this growing brand
56
Up and coming
We speak to new design talent, Erica
Stacey, who reveals her inspirations
58
A new start
The incoming Chairman of the
BBA talks to us about his future plans
for the organisation
60
Secret support
Boost your brides’ confidence, and your
sales, with a good selection of chic
contouring lingerie
68
Retailer interview
Russell Blackburn, owner of Blackburn
Bridal Couture, talks to Attire Bridal
about setting up his beautiful boutique,
and the recent launch of his stylish
occasionwear studio
76
Retail technology
David Mackley provides a guide to the
new Cookie Law introduced on 26th
May, 2012 in the second instalment of
his series
80
Net gains
Keren Anderson of website creation
company I Do I Do reveals some top
tips on creating a well-read blog
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Profiles
37
The collections
49
European focus
We spotlight some key European names
making waves in the UK market
18
The Essential
Collection
Shows
18
The Essential Collection 2013
An early preview of next year’s exciting
event, including brand new signings
64
Grace Harrington Couture
Editor’s letter
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012
Image courtesy of
Diane Harbridge
www.dianeharbridge.com
+44 (0)1829 752 192
MANAGING EDITOR
Louise Prance
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This gorgeous belt
from Lily Bella Bridal
allows brides to
instantly transform
their gown.
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Ami Williams, Rebecca Clarke,
Samantha Lock, Charlotte Brown
As we draw ever closer to the end of 2012, it’s
the perfect opportunity to reflect on the year
so far, and the changes we’ve witnessed in
our industry. Within the past 12 months we’ve
seen Laura Daly voted in as Chair of the
Retail Bridal Association (RBA), taking over
from Alan Sanders. More recently, we’ve seen
Joe Freedman announced as Chair of the British
Bridalwear Association (BBA), taking over from Joe
Sweeney. In this issue we speak to both the Chair and Ex-Chair of the
BBA to find out the future of this well-supported organisation.
On the subject of new faces, I’d like to take this opportunity to
welcome on board our new trade show columnist – Nikki Graeme –
who’ll be reporting on all the major bridal exhibitions this year and next.
She runs The White Closet in Didsbury, Manchester and begins with her
review of the British Bridal Exhibition in Harrogate on page 74.
The trade show scene continues to evolve, and we’re likely to see
some major changes over the next couple of years if the rumours are
to be believed. One thing’s for certain – The Essential Collection will be
celebrating its third anniversary in 2013 so turn to page 18 for our early
preview of this unmissable bridal trade event.
Also in this issue we focus on bridal lingerie and hosiery to find out
what makes it such an attractive add-on sale, and highlight some of the
newest European bridal brands to target the UK market.
WEB DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
Stuart Weatherley
Enjoy reading
EDITOR
Demelza Rayner
+44 (0)1376 535 609
editor@attirebridal.com
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Annie Cannock
+44 (0)1376 535 613
anniec@attirebridal.com
SALES MANAGER
Mark White
+44 (0)1376 514 000
markw@attirebridal.com
SALES EXECUTIVE
Jan Griffin
+44 (0)1376 535 612
jang@attirebridal.com
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Scott Brothwell
artwork@attirebridal.com
+44 (0)1376 535 616
DEPUTY PRODUCTION
MANAGER
Sarah Barnes
SENIOR DESIGNER
Vicky O’Connor
SUBSCRIPTIONS
Alice Henson, Tammy Wright
+44 (0)1376 514 000
KD Media Publishing Limited
Broseley House Newlands Drive
Witham, Essex CM8 2UL
www.attirebridal.com
Fashion File 3
on page 51
ȐȹȐȵɺǸ
Demelza Rayner
Editor
ISSN 1758-0072
Attire Bridal is solely owned, published
and designed by KD Media Publishing
Limited. Whilst every effort was made
to ensure the information in this
magazine was correct at the time of
going to press, the publishers cannot
accept legal responsibility for any
errors or omissions, nor can they
accept responsibility of the standing
of advertisers nor by the editorial
contributions. The views expressed
do not necessarily reflect those of the
publisher. Attire Bridal is published
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and sent to Attire Bridal @ Broseley
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CM8 2UL.
Enzoani Profile
on page 28
TEC2013 Preview
on page 18
Fashion File 1
on page 42
Average Net
Circulation: 3,038
01/07/2011 - 30/06/2012
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Industry news
Read on to find out more about
this season’s movers and
shakers in the bridal industry…
Award-winning accessories company releases
new collection
International Jewellery London reports
positive feedback
Corrine Smith Design has recently unveiled its latest line of bridal accessories
– titled Essence.
Designed to depict the beauty of nature, the new collection captures the
essence of contemporary elegance whilst retaining a classic feel. “My aim was
to create sensitive representations of organic forms in a modern style,” says
Corrine. “Floral accents play a key role and elements of looping vines and
flourishing foliage help to create the overall vision.”
The collection includes a selection of simple and organic side head dresses
such as the Lizzie which exemplifies the vision behind the collection, to
intricate detailing in headbands such as Honour and Wysteria. Pretty bun
vines, combs and pins complete the range.
All products are designed in Scotland by Designer/Owner Corrine Smith,
ensuring a high quality standard and finish. For further details visit the website
www.corrinesmith.com.
Featuring top brands, celebrity designers, successful retailers,
industry experts, upcoming trends and stunning new collections,
International Jewellery London (IJL) is the leading UK jewellery
trade show.
Speaking about this year’s event, organised by Reed Exhibition,
IJL’s Event Director Sam Willoughby said: “We are extremely
pleased to hear so much positive feedback from both exhibitors
and visitors. These are tough times for everyone, but the amount of
order taking done at the show proves how resilient and innovative
the jewellery industry is.”
Due to the timing and location of the show, many designers
chose to unveil their brand new collections ahead of the Christmas
period and 2013. New trends and collections were appreciated by retailers, who
come to IJL to see the latest in jewellery design: “You can keep an
eye on trends, check out suppliers and new product that is hot,”
commented Melanie Wakefield, Managing Director of Wakefields
Jewellers. To find out about next year’s event, taking place from 1st4th September, 2013, simply visit www.jewellerylondon.com.
THE WHITE ROSE MARKS FIRST
ANNIVERSARY
On 1st September,
2012, The White Rose
bridal boutique in
Chipping Campden, a
north Cotswold town in
Gloucestershire, celebrated
its first anniversary. To toast
the occasion, boutique
owner Danielle McCabe
invited brides from her first
year into the boutique for
birthday drinks, as well as
wedding suppliers and
local businesses.
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News & events
NEWS IN BRIEF
• Lola Bridal opened its doors on 1st September, 2012, with an exclusive launch event.
Key suppliers were on hand to speak to brides, including The Vintage Wedding Dress
Company and Harriet Wilde.
• Sam Everard is now the exclusive UK distributor for the impeccably-designed Mia
Solano bridal collection. To find out more, visit www.miasolano.com.
BRIDES CAN NOW ACHIEVE
CINDERELLA’S STYLE
Jesús Peiró unveils new
accessory collection
Designed by Merche Segarra, the
latest accessory range from Jesús
Peiró features Chantilly lace appliqué,
silk petals and gemstone embroidery
alongside veils, head dresses and
beautiful boleros.
Designed, created and
manufactured in Spain, the emphasis
is on a high quality finish. To find out
more about the new range, visit
www.jesuspeiro.com.
Alfred Angelo and Disney have announced a oneof-a-kind Cinderella-inspired bridal collection in
celebration of the release of Disney’s Cinderella
Diamond Edition on Disney Blu-ray™.
The Cinderella Diamond Wedding Gown
Collection went on general sale in October,
following a preview to buyers visiting the British
Bridal Exhibition in Harrogate this September.
“We are excited to be collaborating with Alfred
Angelo on yet another fashion-forward bridal
collection. Cinderella’s story is a classic tale of
romance and enchantment, and this Alfred Angelo
collection captures these magical storytelling details,”
said Jonathan Baker, Director of Fashion and Home,
The Walt Disney Company UK and Ireland. “The
Cinderella Diamond Wedding Gown Collection’s
soft, blue accents and delicate fabrics are on trend
trend for 2013.”
This line of limited-release wedding dresses
consists of five styles in soft shades of blue. Each
gown represents the iconic Disney Princess,
including timeless ball gowns that sparkle with every
turn, and modern fit and flare silhouettes. For more
information please visit www.alfredangelo.com/
Disney or www.disneybridal.com.
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The Retail Bridalwear Association launches Brides
Protection Scheme
The Retail Bridalwear Association (RBA), the UK’s trade body for wedding dress shops, has
launched the RBA Brides Protection Scheme which guarantees that any money paid out for
a wedding dress at a member shop will be protected, should the bridal retailer go out of
business involuntarily.
The 120-strong body, which has shops in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, has
already noted that the pilot scheme has been a huge bonus for brides, as the country struggles
through tough recessionary times.
Association Chair, Laura Daly of Bellissima Weddings, South Woodham Ferrers, Essex says:
“We are now seeing brides coming in and expressing worries about their own financial stability or
that of their workplace and wondering whether their money will be safe with us. Wedding dresses
are often ordered a year in advance so it can be an anxious wait for clients. Now, with the RBA
Brides Protection Scheme in place, it brings with it a feeling of confidence and is one less thing
for them to worry about.”
She continues: “For the Association it is the fulfillment of a long held dream. We have been
working towards this aim for a number of years, and have now created our own security scheme
which is easy to operate for both shops and brides.
“Any down payments made on a wedding dress will be fully protected should a member shop
experience difficulties. We already have stringent membership conditions which demand that
members run their businesses efficiently, and this is a further safeguard for our customers against
any of our shops running into problems.”
At shop level, once a bride has paid her deposit on a wedding dress, she will receive a Brides
Protection Scheme Form and take it home to register with the scheme online at the RBA website
www.bestweddingshops.co.uk. This ensures that her details are stored remotely should anything
prevent access to the shop records and enables the RBA to act swiftly when required.
RBA Secretary Phil Rathkey, who helps with the Association’s helpline says: “It’s always
traumatic when a wedding shop shuts its doors without warning and brides are left out-of-pocket
and with nothing to wear at their wedding. In the unlikely event this should happen to a RBA
member store, we will do our best to source a replacement gown from the bride’s online details
provided (which are held independently from the shop and therefore easily accessible by the
RBA), or the bride will be refunded her deposit by following a simple claim process.
For further details visit www.rbaltd.co.uk.
Starlet Jewellery launches
new brand
Miss Starlet is the exciting new brand from
Starlet Jewellery. Designed for prom girls and
bridesmaids, many pieces in the collection will
also appeal to brides looking for smaller, simpler
pieces and those looking for economical styles.
As with the Starlet Jewellery brand, each
headpiece has a mini collection with matching
jewellery. Many of the collections are available to
order in a rainbow of pearl and crystal colours.
Jewellery in the Miss Starlet collections starts
at £3, while headpieces start at £5.50.
For more information on the Miss Starlet
collection, send an email to Rebecca at
info@starletjewellery.com.
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Mi steps out with new shoe
clip brand
Mi, a clever and versatile new shoe
clips brand, allows brides to instantly
transform the look of their shoes. Taking
its meaning and inspiration from the
Japanese word for beautiful, Mi clips’
concept is simple but effective. The clips
come in a variety of styles inspired by
vintage archives and current trends.
Whatever the occasion, whether for a
wedding, prom or party, or for effortlessly
transferring a work look from daytime to
evening, Mi clips are the perfect way of
reviving a tired pair of soles.
Prices start at £16.50 RRP. For further
details call +44 (0)7721 594 286.
News & events
ATTIRE BRIDAL RECEIVES LATEST
CIRCULATION CERTIFICATE
Our latest circulation certificate from the Audit Bureau
of Circulation reveals that the magazine goes out to 3,038
individuals in the bridal trade. What’s more, the quality of
the circulation has dramatically improved, with a massive
2,323 of these listed as individual named requests.
Attire Bridal is the only bridal trade magazine with an
independently verified circulation. To view the certificate in
its entirety, please visit www.attirebridal.com.
Masterhand announces new season’s collections
Masterhand presents three different lines for 2013: The smoking-designs from the
Classics collection are the ideal companion for red carpet moments and highclass events. The Bestseller collection presents designs in subtle brown and grey
shades through to medium colour shades and midnight blue. Finally, the mix and
match suit system, Celebration, allows every man will find something to his taste.
For further information visit www.masterhand.com.
DEBBIE CARLISLE UNVEILS DECO-INSPIRED
SECOND COLLECTION
For her second full accessories
collection, Debbie Carlisle has created
12 vintage style headpieces with a
fashion-forward edge inspired by
Deco and floral styles.
The six ‘Divine Deco’ pieces
draw their glamorous high-shine
inspiration from the elegant opulence
of the 1920s and 1930s. The six
‘Floral Fantasy’ designs combine floral
fabrics with intricate beadwork and
subtle flashes of colour for an ethereal
look that works seamlessly with the
colours and textures of the latest
bridal gown designs.
Debbie said: “The six ‘Divine Deco’
headpieces were inspired by the sumptuous glamour of Baz Luhrmann’s The
Great Gatsby and also by Downton Abbey and Boardwalk Empire. Like these
on-screen dramas, all the headpieces combine elegance with a slightly decadent
edge that is perfect for brides who want to make a stylish statement on their
wedding day.
“The six ‘Floral Fantasy’ pieces are my take on the blowsy flower crowns
favoured by Lana Del Rey but with an ethereal twist inspired by the fantastical
images conjured up by Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. This
collection mixes dreamy textured fabrics with colour, warmth and beading.”
Potential stockists can contact Debbie at debbie@dcbouquets.co.uk or log on
to www.dcbouquets.co.uk for more information.
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Best known for its impeccable design and attention to
detail, Caroline Atelier has recently opened its own bespoke
bridal studio at No. 7 South Mall in Cork City, Republic
of Ireland. Speaking about the move, Designer Caroline
Matthews said: “I decided on Ireland because I started
my business over here and have won many awards for my
contemporary bridalwear. At the studio brides are able to
purchase from my current collection or I can design them
something unique to their own ideas, or even combine
designs from my collection.” She continues: “As I have
stockists across the UK and Ireland, having the studio in
Cork will be beneficial for me as the brand is well known
here in Ireland, and gives buyers the opportunity to view the
entire collection. The studio is also a working studio where
we design, manufacture and showcase the collections in
house.” For further details, visit www.caroline-atelier.com.
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Interview
Man on a mission
In recognition of the huge contribution Joe Sweeney has made to the UK bridal trade, we speak
to the former Chairman of the British Bridal Association (BBA) to find out how it all began…
You handed over the role of
Chairman of the BBA to Joe
Freedman at the annual AGM,
held at Harrogate in September.
Why did you decide that it was
now time to step down?
After forming the Retail Bridal
Association (RBA) in 1995 and the BBA in
1998, I felt that it was time for new blood to take
over and lift the organisation onto a new higher
level of service to the bridal trade.
What part did you play in setting up the BBA,
and what first prompted you to take on the role
of Chairman?
The BBA was an offshoot from the RBA and the
committee members asked me to take on that
role from the start.
Over the years you have introduced a number of
initiatives/business tools for your members – can
you tell us a bit about these?
We introduced many new initiatives, including
successful social outings for RBA members.
In the BBA period we have had eight visits to
suppliers’ premises by HRH The Princess Royal
and have organised 10 bridal shows to help
exports in British Embassies across Europe. We
have carried out extensive international bridal
market research for BBA members, undertaken
credit checks on hundreds of bridal retailers
“As in many other industries, the
bridal trade has become more
Americanised with takeovers and
acquisitions, and yet the US styles
and methods do not always suit the
UK market.”
(including tracing the ones that have just simply
disappeared). We now operate the Worst Accounts
List so that suppliers can immediately check up
on new accounts. In addition, we have written
over 250 monthly newsletters and been involved
in a number of takeovers in the trade.
independent retail shops to around 800 in five
years’ time. I believe the remaining shops will be
larger and carry fewer ranges, but will hold a large
number of samples from each range.
How would you like to see the BBA evolve?
I know that Joe Freedman, the BBA’s new
Chairman, has the drive and ambition to
increase membership and offer even more
benefits to members.
“The moves towards manufacturing
primarily in China will soon come
to an end, with Vietnam, Cambodia
What advice would you give to Joe, on taking the
and even Brazil becoming new
BBA forwards?
sources of cheap labour.”
Were there any initiatives/business tools that you
would have liked to have introduced for your
members but were not able to?
I would have liked to have arranged more
Embassy bridal shows abroad but some
Ambassadors were unwilling to co-operate.
Exports are the key to success for the future and
we, as taxpayers, own the premises so should be
able to use them.
What are the main changes you have witnessed
in the bridal industry during your time as
Chairman and how do you think the industry will
develop over the next five years?
As in many other industries, the bridal trade has
become more Americanised with takeovers and
acquisitions, and yet the US styles and methods
do not always suit the UK market. The moves
towards manufacturing primarily in China will
soon come to an end, with Vietnam, Cambodia
and even Brazil becoming new sources of cheap
labour. Initially quality tends to suffer until
quality control methods catch up.
I forecast a reduction in the number of
Joe will have to work hard to achieve the
confidence of BBA members so that they will not
be inhibited in the exchange of information. He
will also have to be totally impartial in his views.
“For the immediate future I will still
operate the trade credit checks and
I will continue to produce a new
Worst Accounts List for members.”
How much involvement will you have with the
bridal industry now?
For the immediate future I will still operate
the trade credit checks and I will continue to
produce a new Worst Accounts List for members.
In addition, I would still like to visit trade
exhibitions wherever they are held.
How do you plan to spend your newly-acquired
free time?
My wife, Cynthia, and I would like to get back
to our second home in Cyprus where there is
much to do and we have a wonderful social circle.
Fortunately, the internet will allow us to remain
in touch with the trade. $
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Phoenix Gowns
Romantica
Starlet Jewellery
Special Day
En Vogue
It’s never too early to start planning for next year’s show. Put the 7th-9th July, 2013 in your
diary now!
WHERE?
The Essential Collection 2013 will once again
be held at Stoneleigh Park Exhibition and
Conference Centre in Warwickshire, within easy
reach of most of the major UK cities.
For exhibitors, the direct access to the
exhibition hall makes unloading and loading
a breeze, while for visitors the unlimited free
parking (30,000 spaces in all) immediately
outside the exhibition hall is a welcome treat.
WHEN?
The chosen date – 7th-9th July, 2013 – is perfectly
timed to follow the major European trade shows,
allowing retailers to view and buy from the new
season’s bridal collections. Indeed, by ordering
at The Essential Collection, bridal retailers will
receive their dress samples much sooner than
was previously possible, allowing them to sell to
fashion-conscious brides before Christmas.
WHO?
With nine months to go until the doors open on
The Essential Collection 2013, new bridal names
are signing up all the time. For the very latest
information, simply visit our comprehensive
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website – www.tec2013.com – or follow us on
Twitter at www.twitter.com/EssentialColl.
Romantica was the first major bridal brand
to reconfirm its attendance at The Essential
Collection 2013, and has been a strong supporter
of the show since it launched in 2011, praising its
‘impeccably high standard’.
We’re also delighted to be welcoming back
Mia Solano, who first exhibited with us earlier
this year. Sam Everard, UK distributor for the
brand, said: “Mia Solano was delighted with The
Essential Collection 2012, gaining lots of new
accounts as well as taking orders from existing
stockists. Our customers all said it was a relaxed
show with plenty of chance for them to browse
the stands and make informed decisions. There
was no hesitation with our decision to return for
the 2013 show.”
Other bridal names returning include Special
Day, which has over 30 years of experience in
delivering high quality products to the bridal
market, and Phoenix Gowns, a label that offers
quality designs at excellent value.
But it’s not just about bridalwear – British
bridal firm, Tara Lee will once again be
showcasing its exquisite flower girl dresses, while
Starlet Jewellery, En Vogue Bridal Accessories
and Lily Bella Bridal will be displaying their latest
bridal accessories.
WHAT?
The Essential Collection is the only bridal trade
event taking place in early summer, and is open
to bricks and mortar bridal retailers. Buyers can
register in advance at ww.tec2013.com.
WHY?
Aside from the excellent location and plentiful
free parking, there are so many reasons to visit
The Essential Collection 2013. Timed hot on
the heels of the other major European bridal
exhibitions, the event provides the perfect
opportunity to see and order from many of the
2014 spring/summer collections, for the first
time in the UK.
Our fashion shows take place eight times over
the three days of the exhibition, so buyers can
instantly recognise the up and coming trends,
as well as being able to see this season’s hottest
gowns shown off to their best advantage.
Once again, we’ll be offering a range of free
retail seminars on a variety of subjects – from
Mia Solano
Lily Bella
Trudy Lee
Tara Lee
Elizabeth Dickens
maximising your on-line presence to converting more appointments into
sales. Our full schedule will be available online before the show opens.
Finally, we’ll also be offering plenty more networking opportunities with
friends and colleagues in the industry – simply visit the website for the
latest details.
But don’t just take our word for it – here’s what a couple of retailers had
to say after The Essential Collection 2012:
“Thank you for an excellent show. Being situated in Cornwall, The Essential
Collection provides us with a realistic opportunity of attending a trade
show. Harrogate is simply too far – for us it was an 850-mile round trip that
involved three days in total, of which 17 hours were spent driving – never to
be repeated! In contrast, on Sunday 8th July we had a successful day trip, arriving at The
Essential Collection just after 10am, leaving mid afternoon to return home
at a reasonable time. We have seen all our regular suppliers, found three new
ones, and are delighted with our productive day. Congratulations on a very
successful event...long may it continue. You will always have our support.”
Laura Parfitt, From This Day Forward
“I visited The Essential Collection for the first time this year and, although
smaller than Harrogate, I was not disappointed at all. I found the intimate
setting easy to explore, and really enjoyed the seminars where I was able to
talk to like-minded business owners like myself. Well done for all of your
hard work.”
Jo Parker, Your Wedding Shop $
www.trudylee.co.uk
info@trudylee.co.uk 01707 643633
Time for change
Brides and their maids are increasingly searching for a bespoke look – we take a look at
innovative ideas from some of the UK’s most exciting designers
Claire Mischevani,
Claire Mischevani
How would you describe
your current collection of
bridal gowns, and what
makes them so original?
Even though I am a
designer, I still have a lot
of contact with my clients as I offer a couture
service. I feel that this gives me a real insight in to
what they are looking for. From this experience
I have put together a collection that does not
take a huge investment for retailers to get a great
selection of gowns in a range of styles.
I constantly update the fabrics that I use by
visiting exhibitions and exclusive mills all over
Europe to keep the gowns current. I search for
unusual and stunning fabrics that will excite and
inspire brides.
I came up with the original idea of overlays
a few years ago and launched this in 2010. It’s
become a huge signature for the brand.
What initially inspired your concept of bridal
overlays, and why do you think this idea is so
desirable to British brides?
Brides absolutely love the idea of changing their
look from day to evening, and this concept gives
them the flexibility to do so without having to
purchase two separate gowns. They can wear a
subtle lace overlay during the day and a sparkly
or embellished overlay during the evening.
Alternatively, a bride can simply take off the lace
overlay to reveal a strapless gown and then add an
embellished belt.
How does a retailer benefit from stocking
your gowns and overlays, and how would you
recommend they showcase the designs in order to
convey the originality of the design?
There are six base style gowns and they each have
a variation of six overlays, which are all different
shapes. They come with or without sleeves in a
range of stunning laces and embellished fabrics.
It’s less expensive for a retailer to update the
range as the base shapes will remain the same, but
the overlays can easily transform the styles and
these can be ordered throughout the season.
It also makes the fittings much easier as the
brides can wear one base style and the fitter can
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add different layers to completely transform the
look, the dresses simply sell themselves.
It’s best for a retailer to stock at least three
silhouettes and add to this with two or three
overlays per style, alongside our absolutely
stunning range of belts (we sell an astounding
number of these).
How many stockists do you have in the UK, and
how would you like to grow this stockist base?
We currently have 10 stockists in the UK and
we’re looking to expand this with the new
collection, but are continuing to work with highend exclusive boutiques to retain the exclusivity
of the brand.
What are your plans for growing your brand over
the next 12 months?
New styles are regularly being added to the
collection that will entice further brides to
wear ‘Claire Mischevani’ on their wedding day.
We’ve also launched a chic mother of the bride
collection and this is selling extremely well for
our current stockists.
Adaptable gowns
From this...
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designers, each of our gowns have been carefully
created using techniques that allow the element
of adaptability to be discreet.
...to this
Rachel Farrimond
and Isoline Hickman,
Hazaar
How would you describe
your current
your
cur
urre
rentt ccollection
oll
ol
lle
lect
cti
tion
ion of bridal gowns, and what
makes them so original?
Our current collection has been designed using
simple lines with a vintage influence. Our dresses
are all adaptable so that brides can seamlessly
go from day to evening without the need for a
second dress. As we’re trained makers as well as
What initially inspired your concept of convertible
bridal gowns, and why do you think this is so
desirable to British brides?
We began our journey at university when we
both realised that bridal design was our passion.
The inspiration for an adaptable bridal collection
first came to us when we were bridesmaids at a
close friend’s wedding – she was upset when the
hem and bottom part of her dress were ruined
from inadvertently being stepped on by her
guests, and found the length restrictive at the
reception. We also noticed the trend for brides
choosing to wear a shorter dress in the evening
and thought it was a shame for brides to change
out of their dream dress after a few short hours,
when it could be easily adapted.
It was then that we decided to design a collection
of adaptable bridal gowns to allow brides to enjoy
their day without compromise.
British brides are creative and unique in
their style and wedding day choices. Our
gowns allow them to be free of limitations
(including unpredictable weather!), giving them
the freedom to change their look on the day,
whenever they choose.
How does a retailer benefit from stocking your
gowns, and how would you recommend they
showcase the designs in order to convey the
originality of the design?
From this...
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When our stockists choose Hazaar of London
they are choosing a collection that is original and
provides brides with versatility. Our gowns are
not only perfect for UK weddings but also for
destination weddings where the climate may be a
little warmer.
As the dresses are all designed to discreetly
adapt, we’ve found that buyers and brides who
aren’t aware of our concept tend not to realise
that they are adaptable at first, so it’s always
a nice surprise when they find out! Showing
either the long or short version of any of the
dresses tends to draw people in, and it is best to
have images available to show of the longer or
shorter versions, or to demonstrate on a stand or
a model.
How many stockists do you currently have in
the UK, and how would you like to grow this
stockist base?
We currently have two wonderful stockists in
the UK – Anais Bridal Couture in Milngavie
and Mathilda Rose Bridal in West Sussex. We’d
like to grow our stockist base in the UK over the
next year and are planning to attend the White
Gallery again in May, where we hope to enlist
some more stockists.
What are your plans for establishing the Hazaar
brand over the next 12 months?
We’re currently working on a new collection of
adaptable gowns that we plan to debut next year.
We plan to support this with a retail-targeted
marketing campaign.
...to this
Adaptable gowns
Michelle Hailey,
Regional Director,
Europe, Twobirds
Bridesmaid Ltd
How would you describe
your current collection of
bridesmaid gowns, and
what makes them
so original?
Twobirds
T
obirds Bridesmaid sets
se itself apart from the
typical bridesmaid collections by offering a
collection of completely convertible, luxurious
and timeless gowns that are flattering for every
figure. The ingenious convertible design concept
– inspired by a ‘70s Norma Kamali ‘infinity’
dress – allows each dress within the collection to
be worn 15 different ways, providing complete
versatility and sophisticated style. The gowns are
made from a luxurious jersey blend fabric and
feature bodice straps that can be twisted, tied,
knotted and folded to create a range of flattering
neckline and sleeve options, whilst maintaining
a cohesive look for the bridal party. Twobirds
dresses are made in the UK and are available in
three different collections: Classic, Two-Toned
and Rosette. Our dresses are available in 20
catwalk inspired colours with the latest additions
being magenta, platinum and regal purple.
What initially inspired your concept of flexible
styling, and why do you think this idea is so
desirable to British brides?
The Twobirds brand was born from a desire for
the brand’s founder to find a dress for her own
wedding that was flexible enough for all her
bridesmaids to wear in a way that suited them
while giving her the consistency in the fabric and
colour. As bridesmaids dresses have moved away
from the traditional matching strapless number,
Twobirds Bridesmaid has instantly stepped in to
a void that was begging to be filled with a stylish
new solution. It’s also a fantastic answer to ever
harder working women as it’s completely hasslefree when it comes to fittings and alterations,
with just two sizing options. While being a
wonderful bridesmaid dress, the versatility, ease
and flexibility hasn’t gone unnoticed among
brides so we’re also seeing more sales of our ivory
gown, especially in the rosette collection. The
short lead time and flexible sizing also makes a
great solution for pregnant or postnatal brides.
How does a retailer benefit from stocking the gowns,
and how would you recommend they showcase
the designs in order to convey the originality of
the design?
All Twobirds Bridesmaid retailers are considered
partners and are supported strongly by the head
office team. They can expect quick answers, full
training and seamless production in the UK
of the highest quality. As the Twobirds brand
has gone from strength to strength in the past
three years, our dresses alone drive traffic to the
boutiques which consequently results in cross
sales into bridal and accessories. We always
recommend our stockists carry as many colours
of samples as possible and provide swatches of
fabric in every colour. We recommend that at
least two dresses are displayed in different ties so
that the concept is understood. We support these
with newsboards featuring our campaign images
which we provide to all stockists. A Twobirds
Bridesmaid dress in the window is a real pull and
has been known to stop traffic!
How many stockists do you have in the UK, and
how would you like to grow this stockist base?
We currently have 30 carefully selected stockists
and have been offering wholesale for the past
18 months. We’re very careful to expand at
a sustainable rate and work exclusively with
boutiques that we feel will be honest and open
with us, have a real passion for our brand and
attract the demographic of brides that Twobirds
attracts. We’ll continue to grow at a measured
pace and focus our expansion on the deepest
north and south of England as well as Scotland,
Wales and Ireland. Europe will also be a strong
consideration for 2013. It’s going to be another
exciting year!
What are your plans for growing the brand over
the next 12 months?
Plans are afoot for a move to a more central
London location with a much larger showroom
space for our retail arm. We’ll continue to take
on additional stockists and introduce new
collections. We’re also building a brand new
website to reflect the changing market, emerging
trends and technologies, allowing us to be more
creative and fully embrace Pinterest and other
interactive tools. $
CONTACT
Twobirds Bridesmaid
www.twobirdsbridesmaid.co.uk
Hazaar
www.hazaaroflondon.com
Claire Mischevani
www.clairemischevani.com
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ȨȽȇȨȽȝɜȣȐ
RIGHT BALANCE
Bridal designer and now independent retailer, Melanie James, reveals how she’s enjoying her
first few months of trading.
Congratulations on the launch
of Melanie James Bridal –
what inspired you to set up a
bridal boutique?
Thank you. From an early age
I remember sitting alongside
my mother whilst she created
the most amazing clothes
and home accessories using
recycled fabrics. I had a toy sewing machine and was content to imitate her
work. I’m so fortunate to have such a creative, inspirational and supportive
family. I’ve always been encouraged to follow my dreams. I read Law at
University and, after studying a further legal postgraduate course, I worked
in a prestigious law firm for four years. Despite my success in the industry,
I felt like a caged bird and my artistic side was desperate to break free. It
was during a traumatic and depressing trawl for a wedding dress for a close
friend, that the acorn of my future business was firmly planted. With my
devotion to detail, and use of exquisite lace and fine beading, I knew that
my bridal designs were different. I’ve always treasured hand-made clothing,
and after considerable research, I set to work and produced my first
collection of wedding dresses.
Where are you based and how did you go about finding the perfect premises?
Our gorgeous boutique is situated in the oasis of outer Manchester, on the
leafy Beech Road of Chorlton Green. With a truly village feel, this annex to
the town of Chorlton is the perfect location for my boutique (and a not-sodistant beautiful cycle journey from home!). Vintage and craft fairs, farmers
markets and a range of unique and independent cafes, art galleries and pubs
with late opening hours surround my centrally located boutique. We also
have free parking! Having lived here during my university days, I had no
intention of being anywhere else.
How have you found the first few months of trading? What have been the highs
and lows?
Starting a new business during the worst financial crisis in decades hasn’t
been easy, but with my legal background I wasn’t shy of putting in the
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hard work. The satisfaction of designing a beautiful dress for such a special
occasion, with the hope of it being kept as a family heirloom, far outweighs
any second thoughts. The launch party held on 11th February, 2012 was a
huge success, with several appointments booked on the day. The excitement
and thrill of showcasing your designs, in your own boutique to the public
is hard to describe. It’s truly a magical moment. With every passing day,
every satisfied client passes on my details to another potential customer,
and this is how my business is blossoming. Of course, nowadays it’s just as
important to be proactive online, which I have taken into consideration
when managing my time and tasks. The highs are, of course, when I see one
of my dresses centre stage in wedding photographs, with the bride looking
truly gorgeous. We always invite our brides back to our boutique after their
honeymoon to catch up and go through their photographs and the details
of their day. I get goose bumps every time.
How do you go about choosing your suppliers?
I’m passionate about independent artists and independent trading and
have a small collection of professionals who make my boutique even more
interesting. I support a local silversmith who makes the most divine bespoke
tiaras and jewellery; I have wonderful contacts with local cake suppliers
and artistic photographers. We each provide a bespoke service, offering
our clients options rather than restrictions. My designs favour affordable
extravagance and are structured to create the perfect shape. My popular
collections thus far include the Vintage Memories Collection (with soft,
antiqued embellishments and delicate trims of cottage lace) and Dreams of
Venice Collection (inspired by my love of costume, sparkles and ruffles).
How difficult has it been to balance your two roles – bridal designer and
proprietor of Melanie James Bridal?
It’s actually impossible to combine the two roles in a satisfactory manner.
One is always at the expense of the other. Shortly though, as the business is
growing quickly, new members of my team will share this work.
Are there any men or women behind the scenes who have been invaluable in
helping you set up the business?
My mother and grandparents have been highly-valued supporters,
continuously encouraging and supporting me. My brother is always
bursting with creative ideas and, of course, my wonderful partner has
listened tirelessly to my dream ideas, and has made them all possible whilst
being in the shadows. His beautiful renovated shabby-chic furniture adds
colour and an ever-changing look to my period cottage-style boutique.
What are your future plans for Melanie James Bridal?
I have a wish list that is updated on a daily basis so I’m excited about what
2013 will bring. My vision, as a designer, is to bring to the industry my
passion for original design and high quality. I’ve had the good fortune to
have sourced the most amazing selection of stunning red-carpet dresses
to complement our collection of bridal gowns, and these now add a
colourful dimension to the boutique. My short-term aim is to broaden the
selection of independent wedding dress designers in my store. This will
certainly prove that independent retailers can offer an unrivalled, diverse
and imaginative selection, together with a personal and friendly customer
service. Do I dream of becoming a large supplier of wedding dresses? I
certainly do not. Many artists choose
not to sell prints of their paintings,
Melanie James Bridal
preferring the joy of producing a
+44 (0)161 881 2675
unique product with heart and soul.
www.melaniejamesbridal.co.uk
I am of the same belief. $
Contact
BBEH Kings Suite KS1 next to Hall Q
Column
It’s all about
THE MONEY
@elliesanderson1
Award-winning retailer, Ellie Sanderson, discusses the merits of reviewing your
merchant service provider.
Three months ago I found myself in a rather
interesting financial situation that I thought
would be worth sharing. My business was five
years old this summer and we have seen solid
sales growth year on year. I pride myself on
paying suppliers on time, I have honestly never
been overdrawn with the bank, I have a great
credit rating, my business credit cards are cleared
monthly and all my business financial measures
are solid.
Anyhow, I got a fascinating letter from my
merchant service provider (a bank) saying that as
my business was now taking a certain turnover
and my transactions were up 35 per cent I
needed to provide them with security in excess
of £200,000 or they would no longer be able to
supply me with merchant services.
I’m sure you can imagine my shock – I
thought taking money and being fairly successful
was a positive, but in this case it was deemed
a risk (to my provider anyway). I called and
asked to discuss this matter and found myself
talking to someone quoting all sorts of banking
jargon, mainly highlighting the fact that my
card transactions were up and so I was a risk. I
thought the fact my business was growing was
good, I also thought that as my business has
posted healthy profits with Companies house I
would be seen as doing well. I was told that there
are so many bridal shops going bust “that we are
all a risk”. I escalated this discussion to a senior
level and asked many questions but none of the
answers I received stacked up. In fact, I have on
file three emails of apology for them misquoting
my own financial information to me.
I’m not a fool and understand how credit risk
works. I have a great friend who is a banker and
who looked at all the key measures of assessment
and confirmed that I should be congratulated
and not bullied into giving any level of financial
security for a chargeback risk. I was, however,
intrigued and I chose to supply them with
bank statements showing the last nine months
of balances and savings. I provided cash flows,
quarterly management reports and annual
projections for the next two years.
Whilst I left them to review my financial
projections and my business’s net worth versus
credit risk I set about my own investigation into
merchant services. At this stage I would like
to thank all of you who joined in my Twitter
debate and supplied me with emails full of great
information. I received over 250 tweets about
merchant service providers and rates which led
to many discussions about services and charges
with many companies.
My comments from now are based on my
investigations for my business and should not be
taken as me offering financial advice but may
prompt you to re-think your current deal. So here
are the top providers based on Twitter comments
and rates available to small businesses.
1. Streamline
They were voted top on Twitter for rates.
Their personal sales representative service was
voted the best. They had a great ability to see a
business’s future growth without paralysing it
with red tape. They came out on top for getting
money from customer to account.
2. Card Safe
3. Elavon
During my investigation on Twitter, my
provider contacted me to ask for a meeting. I
have to be honest and say I was shocked as the
representative had clearly read all of our tweets.
In this meeting they were a bit ‘cap in hand’ and,
as I thought, had clearly read all of the on-line
feedback and responses – none of which were
positive about them. They wanted to work with
me to improve their service levels and so on.
Incidentally, all the tweets on this subject have
now been deleted.
After this meeting I was still unhappy with
their demands (which had now been reduced)
and continued investigations which took me to
the Federation of Small Businesses (FSB) who I
asked for advice. I honestly felt my provider was
bullying me. I then discovered that the FSB also
recommended Streamline and that if you were a
member of the FSB you got better rates.
After a long meeting with my accountant
I decided to serve my provider with 30 days’
notice. I moved to Streamline, I got better rates,
better service and didn’t have to sign over my
soul or my house. My current provider did try to
prevent me leaving by re-negotiating rates but I
realised the service level they offered was poor. I
also realised they had bullied me and I had lost
trust in them. I picked this provider five years
ago for their longevity and support, but knew
now that times in banking had changed. They no
longer wanted to work in partnership with me;
they no longer had customer needs at the root
of all they do. The constant restructure within
banking meant I had ended up with over five
people managing my merchant services account
in three years. This provider had failed to support
me. It was time to vote with my feet.
Streamline is good, it does take a bit longer
than my previous provider to get cash into my
account but I can manage that. I like them, their
service and their professionalism.
Onwards and upwards but what a journey and
lots of sleepless nights. I am now re-evaluating
my bank as I have had three Customer Managers
in two years and only met one of them twice.
This was not what I signed up to five years ago.
The face of banking is clearly changing. So far
the Co-op are in the lead – free banking to small
businesses that are members of the FSB.
Finally, one last disclaimer, my words are not
financial advice as all businesses are different as
are business requirements. It’s always worthwhile
stepping outside of your business to look at all
of your service providers to ensure you’re getting
the best deal. $
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Enzoani
Blue by Enzoani
GOING GLOBAL
The effortlessly stylish bridal brand – Enzoani – has already won a huge
following from British bridal retailers and their brides. No longer assocated
with Benjamin Roberts Ltd, it’s embracing a new global audience. President
of Enzoani UK, Jeanette Stevens, reveals how there’s a range for every age.
When was Enzoani first launched, by who,
and with what business aim?
In 2005, a new bridal collection emerged
and quickly rose to compete with top
brands by merging traditional and modern
European styles into exquisitely hand crafted
gowns. From its initial launch, the Enzoani
bridal collection has become one of the
most renowned brands across multiple
countries due to its focus on innovative style,
exceptional quality and above all a fit and
finish like no other.
The designer for Enzoani, Kang Chun
Lin, a London College of Fashion graduate,
designed and developed the brand name
Enzoani. Additionally, he has since pioneered
the creations for Blue by Enzoani, Modeca,
Love by Enzoani, Love Shoes and he oversees
Love 16 by Enzoani. Through his vision,
the label has gained attention for its use of
luxurious fabrics, exquisite beadwork and
unmatched construction techniques.
Europe and Asia provided the initial
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inspiration for the Enzoani brand. For 2012,
collections were influenced by the vibrancy
and lightness of spring. With both soft flowing
fabrics and shimmering hand sewn Swarovski
crystals, the concept is showcased throughout
the bridal collections. Bright hues and pops
of colour are featured in the Love and Love 16
special occasion gowns.
For 2013, Kang Chun Lin has focused
on angelic, feminine and feathered gowns.
Multiple layers and textures, which conceal
and reveal are key, creating not just an
outlook but also the beauty that lies just
beneath the surface.
How has the company evolved since this
time and what have been the key milestones
in its development?
With expansion came new additions to the
initial line which remains tied to the Enzoani
trademark. Blue by Enzoani, Modeca and
the recently developed Beautiful has defined
Enzoani with chic layered lace, signature high
quality construction and rich detail.
In 2012 Enzoani went global, expanding
to open dedicated offices in Europe, UK
and South Africa. Despite the brand being
distributed in these countries for a number
of years, the dedicated team can now
concentrate 100 per cent on Enzoani and its
collection. The aim of the global team is to
understand each country’s difference and how
best to support the stockist.
What have been the significant changes to
Enzoani this year, and how does the brand
plan to expand further in the UK over the
coming months?
To style a woman in every stage of her life,
Love by Enzoani and Love 16 by Enzoani
were developed. Cocktail wear for special
occasions are found in Love to be paired
with chic Love Shoes. In 2012, to style young
women with a taste for high fashion and flirty
silhouettes, Love 16 Collection was formed.
Each season, the brand continues to
Profile
Contact
Modeca
Love Shoes
expand and grow with the aid of growing
consumer and media support. Enzoani
has become both national and global with
offices in the United States, Europe, United
Kingdom, Africa and retail locations across
the continents. To unveil this year’s 2013
Collection, Enzoani hosted its annual Fashion
Event which revealed its newest line, Beautiful.
How many collections come under
the Enzoani umbrella and how do they
complement one another?
There are seven key collections: Enzoani
Black Label, Enzoani, Blue by Enzoani,
Modeca, Beautiful, Love and Love 16.
Enzoani Black Label gowns are one of
a kind creations designed with the original
Enzoani brand in mind. These handcrafted
gowns are for that red carpet moment or
special occasion where refined couture
is appropriate. With innovative style and
trendsetting silhouettes, Black Label gowns
are statement pieces that uphold Enzoani’s
promise for the best in fit and finish.
The flagship label, Enzoani embodies the
aesthetic and vision Designer, Kang Chun
Lin seeks to convey. As an admirer of hand
detailing, Kang Chun Lin takes particular
notice to this for the Enzoani
collection. The 2013 season
includes draped delicate lace, hand
beading, and layered fabric skirts
for a soft, sexy feminine look.
Clarity can be found in Kang
Chun’s design and desire to
strive for the best in both fit
and finish.
Blue by
Enzoani has
consistently
been the most
Love by Enzoani
sought after bridal collection for the brand due
to its price point and couture sophistication.
This line is unique in its exquisite style
and elegance tied with both an Asian and
European influence. The 2013 collection
features subtle colour accents, innovative
necklines, and layered details.
Modeca is redefined for the 2013 collection
with designer Kang Chun Lin leading the
transformation, featuring an increase in
statement black and nude gowns, intricate
lace detailing and elegant necklines. Versatile
in both pricing and design, the debut
collection highlights 17 styles which represent
the new direction of Modeca.
The newest bridal division of Enzoani,
Beautiful, represents an affordable option
while still maintaining the highest in quality.
Beautiful gowns are floaty, elegant, and
retain Enzoani’s refined silhouettes. Designer
Yuchiang Hu, influenced by his history and
background, kept embellishments on each
gown subtle and tasteful.
Love by Enzoani showcases refined
silhouettes with a youthful twist blended into
both cocktail and floor length gowns. This
year, designer Kang Chun Lin’s desire to
develop a palette of jewel tones that both
conceal and reveal are reflected in Love.
Multiple layers, Enzoani’s signature lace
detailing and flattering draping define 2013
Love by Enzoani collection.
The 2013 Love Shoes have refined quality
with subtle sparkle and coupled with the
Love collection are the perfect ensemble.
Finally, Love16 by Enzoani is aimed towards
the fashionable youth with flirty and fun
silhouettes. Glittering cocktail length dresses
and silky flowing gowns are for the ultimate
party. This chic formal wear line sets a new
standard for glamour.
Beautiful
Enzoani
www.enzoani.com
Love 16 by Enzoani
What are the newest lines from the brand,
and are there any plans to introduce further
lines to the UK over the coming year?
Beautiful is a brand new collection launching
worldwide this year. Enzoani black label,
Modeca, Love 16 and Love Shoes are also
new to the UK this year.
How many stockists do you have in the
UK, and how are you planning to grow this
stockist base?
We have more than 180 stockists in the
UK. Hopefully, with the combination of our
designs, the number of collections and
stockist support programme, we’ll further
increase our stockist base.
What support are you able to offer to your
stockists in the UK?
We offer our stockists a range of initiatives
to help them in any way we can, from
designer days to images. New initiatives
to be introduced in 2013 include the gown
exchange programme and our platinum
retailer award. $
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Krystal Agency
New Stockists welcome
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European focus
European Focus
We spotlight some key European bridal brands making waves in the UK market.
Anton Weiss,
Wholesale Agent
(UK & Ireland),
Raimon Bundo
Diana
Please tell me a little
about the brand –
when and where did
it first launch?
The bridal go
gowns
ns from Raimon Bundo are made
in Barcelona. This family business started 40
years ago, and the collections are designed by
Raimon’s wife, Ivonne Ruiz. The brand initially
launched in Spain and is now selling all over
the world.
When did the brand launch in the UK and who is
responsible for the UK distribution?
We wanted to launch in the UK when it felt
right... that time came in May this year when we
launched at White Gallery and were very well
received. We want to maintain complete control
over the brand, from the moment a dress is
conceived and designed to when it is delivered to
the retailer. I was, therefore, appointed as agent,
Dalia
Deli
rather than distributor, to handle the strategy in
the UK.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
how do you plan to increase this stockist base?
We currently have 10 stockists in the UK for
our mainline collection and the plan is to build
strong long term relationships with each of them.
The mainline collection will only be stocked in
the best stores so we are happy to be patient.
How would you describe your latest collection(s)
and how suited are they to British brides?
Our mainline collection is classic with a twist.
We draw inspiration from everywhere and
try and work something just a little different
into each dress. This year we feature beautiful
brocades which are deceptively lightweight and
perfect for weddings taking place under the
temperamental British skies!
What support can you offer to your UK stockists?
We offer stellar customer service: made-tomeasure dresses for no extra charge, one to two
months lead time for no extra charge, as well as
modification/customisation for no extra charge.
We also provide dynamic marketing including
social media, blog exposure, special events such
as designer days, regular editorial in the glossies
as well as a series of national ad campaigns. We
have a guaranteed quick response to all enquiries
through our UK office.
Which gown do you predict will be a best-seller in
the UK and why?
I predict our Diana gown will be a UK best-seller.
It’s the perfect modern-romantic combination
of lace and the softest silk tulle. British brides
are a little more demure than their European
counterparts, so layering tulle and lace over a
figure-hugging dress seems like the perfect way
to keep the bride, mother of the bride and the
groom happy!
What are your short and long term plans for
growing the brand?
Our short term plan is to secure 30 of the best
UK retailers for our mainline collection. Long
term is to gain a foothold in other areas of the
market through the other collections under the
company umbrella - IR by Bundo for alternative
bohemian brides, Kiss by Bundo for budget
conscious brides and Victor and Lucchino for
avant garde brides.
$77,5( ·
Marion Mathews,
Wholesale Agent
for Jesus Peiro Bridal
UK/Ireland
Style 3012
Please tell me a little
about the brand – when
and where did it first
launch?
Jesus Peiro launched in Barcelona in 1988
with the aim of creating high quality modern
bridalwear in line with seasonal trends.
When did the brand launch in the UK and who is
responsible for the UK distribution?
Jesus Peiro had its first stockist in Ireland in
2004 and in the UK in 2005. Our Irish stockist
(The White Room) is now one of our UK
agents. There are two agents in the UK who
look after sales, customer service and marketing.
Distribution is directly from the headquarters in
Spain to the customer.
How would you describe your latest collection(s)
and how suited are they to British brides?
The 2013 Soiree collection reflects the legacy of
the early decades of the 20th century, balancing
femininity and romanticism by updating the
techniques of the great creators of this era,
Vionnet, Lanvin, Poiret and Chanel. The
collection is reflective of the usual sophistication
attributed to Jesus Peiro with a particular
emphasis on jewel tones, textures and accessories.
Which gown do you predict will be a best-seller in
the UK and why?
Style number 3012 is already proving to be a
best-seller from the 2013 preview collection
in the UK market. It features clean lines, a
beautiful cut and just a hint of detailing on the
waistband – the look is signature Jesus Peiro and
its timeless nature lends itself to many different
types of bride.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
how do you plan to increase this stockist base?
At the moment we have 15 stockists across the
UK and Ireland. We hope to see a small increase
over the coming years by concentrating on
geographical areas where we are not currently
represented and approaching stores in these areas.
What support can you offer to your UK stockists?
Jesus Peiro offers amazing customer service – just
$77,5(
ask any of our stockists! The gowns are all made
in Spain and can be turned around very quickly
if necessary at no extra cost. Pattern changes and
customised sizing are all possible with a small
surcharge of £10 per change.
Jesus Peiro is committed to growing the brand
in the UK market over the coming years and
has recently invested in retaining a PR company
– Something Blue PR – in the UK to handle
publicity. We also advertise regularly in leading
consumer publications.
What are your short and long term plans for
growing the brand?
Next year we very much look forward to
celebrating our 25th anniversary in the bridal
industry with our stockists.
In the long term we’d like to see the brand
firmly established as a distinctive quality label
within the bridal industry in the UK, and to
continue to work with our key stockists to
provide the best quality gowns and service to
Jesus Peiro brides.
European focus
David Lawlor, Agent
(UK & Ireland),
Demetrios
Please tell me a little
about the brand –
when and where did
it first launch?
Demetrios is an
international bridal company operating
worldwide for over 30 years. An international
success story in the bridal business, it has been
manufacturing and distributing bridal gowns
worldwide while enjoying ongoing increased sales
and popularity.
The owner and founder of the company,
Mr. Demetrios James Elias, lives and works in
New York. This cosmopolitan metropolis has
always been a huge source of inspiration in the
preparation of his collections.
Being an international traveller has also
enabled the owner and founder of the company
to have a broad perspective when preparing
collections that go on sale around the world,
from Russia to South Africa.
When did the brand launch in the UK and who is
responsible for the UK distribution?
The Demetrios brand has been available in the
UK for decades. All orders are shipped directly
to stockists from Milan and I am responsible for
all aspects of client services.
How would you describe your latest collection(s)
and how suited are they to British brides?
We have three fantastic bridal collections, our
main range is Demetrios, Cosmobella is our midpriced range and, for brides on a budget, we have
Oreasposa.
The collections are extensive, offering
something for everyone with a wide variety of
styles, from traditional romance to elegant and
modern silhouettes.
Using the most exquisite fabrics and refined
detailing, coupled with master craftsmanship,
any bride is guaranteed to shine on her big day.
Which gown do you predict will be a best-seller in
the UK and why?
I predict that styles 538 and 3185 (available to
view on the website www.demetriosbride.com)
will do very well over the coming year. Both
combine elegant styling and refined detailing,
and are proving popular.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
how do you plan to increase this stockist base?
We have around 60 stockists for Demetrios and
a similar number for Cosmobella with some
stocking both ranges.
We’re currently looking for good quality new
stockists in all areas of the country and very
much welcome new enquiries.
What support can you offer to your UK stockists?
We offer full support to our stockists and, with
the assistance of our dedicated team in Milan, I
am always available to help in any way I can.
Our mission is to provide client service and
assistance second to none. We understand that
we are all in the same business and we endeavour
to give our stockists every advantage possible.
What are your short and long term plans for
growing the brand?
We have all of the necessary ingredients for
continued strong growth. We have the product,
consistent quality, excellent client service and
most importantly, some great, loyal stockists.
As previously mentioned, there are currently
areas where we are not fully represented and the
growth of the brand will be achieved by means of
welcoming new stockists in those areas.
$77,5( ·
Paul Blackburn, Krystal Agency
(UK & Ireland), Eddy K
Please tell me a little about the brand –
when and where did it first launch?
After years working as a bridal retailer in Italy,
Eddy K started designing his own brand of
wedding dresses in 1994. In 2006, his son Addy
launched the brand in Canada and recently
expanded to the US and South America.
Every year, in June, Eddy K launches the
collections for the upcoming year during a three
day fashion show event in Milan.
When did the brand launch in the UK and who is
responsible for the UK distribution?
The brand launched in the UK more than 10
years ago and Krystal Agency now represents
Eddy K in the UK. Krystal Agency is based
in the north west of England, and is the sole
agent for the Eddy K collections in the UK. As
a result, we’re able to offer a personal service to
our stockists, yet still have the full support of the
team at the headquarters in Milan.
How would you describe your latest collections and
how suited are they to British brides?
From sophisticated couture gowns, to elegant
and simple destination gowns, Eddy K’s attention
to detail flatters all figures and offers styles for
any taste or special occasion.
There are four major collections. The Eddy K
line offers beautiful designs in elegant fabrics,
embellished with sophisticated Swarovski
beadwork. The ADK collection focuses on lace,
whether it is a full lace gown or lace fused with
satin, taffeta or tulle.
The Boutique collection offers a variety of
satin, organza and soft tulle gowns with delicate
and detailed beading for a young and fresh look.
Finally, the Milano collection spotlights Eddy K’s
couture gowns for the fashion-forward bride.
The gowns are perfect for British brides as
there are many collections to choose from, all
with exquisite details and attention to detail.
Which gown do you predict will be a best-seller in
the UK and why?
Following the preview of the 2013 collections in
Milan, and also at the British Bridal Exhibition
in Harrogate, we already have three potential
best-sellers.
Style 77915 is the UK top seller – it’s a
stunning fairytale gown with delicate lace trim
and long train. The EK934, which is a classic
gown in soft luxurious organza has also been
tremendously popular, as has style 77917. This
is an absolute dream bridal gown, made from
sumptuous tulle with crystal trim.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
how do you plan to increase this stockist base?
We have around 25 stockists in the UK at
present. We would like to add to our stockist base
to properly service British brides, however, we
don’t want to take away from the exclusive nature
of the gowns by supplying too many retailers.
What support can you offer to your UK stockists?
We have a great relationship with our stockists
in the UK and Ireland. We’re very aware that
retailers are struggling at present, not only
from having high volumes of stock, but also the
ongoing pressure of having to meet minimum
order targets – sometimes twice yearly. Eddy K
only requires a minimum of six pieces, even for
new stockists, and offers up to 120 days credit.
All our stockists are invited to the launch
of the new collections in Milan each June.
$77,5(
The catwalk shows are presented at the Hotel
Melia, and there is a spectacular gala dinner and
accommodation provided courtesy of Eddy K.
It’s an amazing weekend and a great time to plan
ahead for the new season.
What are your short and long term plans for
growing the brand?
The long term aim is to continue to build the
Eddy K brand. Our gowns are superb quality and
the price structure has been adapted for the UK
market in sterling rather than euros. $
CONTACT
Demetrios
david.lawlor@hotmail.co.uk
+44 (0)7747 798 321
Raimon Bundo
+44 (0)20 7241 4107
www.weissagencies.co.uk
Eddy K (Krystal Agency)
+44 (0)1204 888 285
www.eddyk.com
Jesus Peiro
www.jesuspeiro.com
+DQGPDGHLQ%DUFHORQD
ZZZUDLPRQEXQGRFRP_DQWRQ#UDLPRQEXQGRFRP_
Interview
A New Start
The new Chairman of the British Bridalwear Association (BBA), Joe Freedman, talks to Attire
Bridal about his future plans for the organisation, including closer working relationships with
some of the other trade associations. Read on to find out more…
Congratulations on your
new appointment Joe. What
motivated you to take on the
role of Chairman at the British
Bridalwear Association?
I had argued in the past that as a
supplier of men’s hirewear it was
not appropriate for me to follow
a man like Joe Sweeney, with his vast experience
of the bridalwear industry. However, because
my company supplies bridal shops, I have a fair
amount of knowledge of the industry and felt
that I had something to offer the members in the
role of Chairman.
“It’s also important that we
encourage some of the younger
designers to join the association,
who may be able to help us keep
up with the dynamic changes
facing the industry.”
How do you think your own experience in the
bridal industry will benefit your members?
As I have no ‘bridalwear baggage’, I feel I can
look with a fresh pair of eyes at all the issues
facing our members at present.
How would you like to see the association develop
over the coming months with regards to member
services and membership numbers?
It’s important that we come together to discuss
issues relevant to our industry. Running a
business can be a lonely affair. Despite being
competitors, our members can discuss how we
tackle the changing marketplace and learn from
each other.
We are also working hard to negotiate even
more discounts on goods and services. We’ve
successfully negotiated discounts in a number of
areas which we will bring to the members at our
EGM on 7th November, 2012 in Birmingham. It
will have a positive impact on membership if we
can show significant savings.
It’s also important that we encourage some
of the younger designers to join the
association, who may be able to
help us keep up with the dynamic
changes facing the industry.
How closely do you see the BBA
working with any of the
other bridal trade
associations?
Good communications
throughout the
industry is essential.
Our committee has
accepted an invitation
to participate in a Q&A
session at a Retail
“It’s important that we come
together to discuss issues
relevant to our industry. Despite
being competitors, our members
can discuss how we tackle the
changing marketplace and learn
from each other.”
Bridalwear Association (RBA) away day. I am
also keen to work closely with Bridal Industry
Suppliers Association (BIS).
Do you still intend to continue with the Embassy
exhibitions to promote bridal exports?
The embassies are less accommodating than
before. This topic is up for discussion at our
forthcoming EGM.
After speaking to your members at the recent AGM
are there common concerns that you wish to focus
on over the coming months?
Probably the subject causing the most heated
debate is the amount and the timings of the
wedding exhibitions.
Another is to understand and adapt to the
modern bride and the challenges created by
the way they consume the vast amount of
information available.
Another concern is to determine what is a
reasonable expectation from the supplier, and
what is expected from the retailer? It’s extremely
important to establish clarity. $
Contact
The British Bridalwear Association
+44 (0)121 321 3939
www.britishbridalwearassociation.org.uk
$77,5(
You’re HIRED!
David Way, Chief Executive of the National Apprenticeship Service, talks to
Attire Bridal about how hiring an apprentice could benefit bridal businesses.
An increasing number of UK businesses are
offering apprenticeships because they are proven
to offer a host of benefits, ranging from improved
productivity and competitiveness, to better staff
retention and motivation.
Hiring eager-to-learn younger people also
helps businesses improve cost effectiveness,
provide a more flexible workforce, create a shared
organisational culture and deliver innovation.
Apprenticeships provide great jobs with
training. They give young people the opportunity
to earn while they learn, gain nationally
recognised qualifications and enjoy lifechanging career and progression opportunities.
Apprenticeship numbers reached a record high
in 2010/11, with more than 457,000 people
starting an apprenticeship – 63.5 per cent more
than the year before.
A range of initiatives have recently been
announced by the government. These include
more Higher Level Apprenticeships (up
to degree level), measures to ensure every
apprenticeship meets rigorous new standards and
the launch of a new financial incentive for small
firms who hire their first apprentices.
Recruitment is made easy with
apprenticeships. The National Apprenticeship
Service’s apprenticeship vacancies online
system enables employers to advertise their
apprenticeship vacancies for free and find
candidates who match their criteria.
The National Apprenticeship Service (NAS)
provides a dedicated service to employers,
offering free, expert advice and support to those
looking to recruit apprentices for the first time,
or expand their apprenticeship programme.
For businesses considering recruiting
apprentices for the first time, here is some key
information you might find useful:
$77,5(
What is an apprenticeship?
An apprenticeship is a real job with training,
meaning apprentices earn a salary whilst picking
up recognised qualifications.
What types of apprenticeship are there?
There are currently around 250 types of
apprenticeships suitable for over 1,400 job roles,
in a range of industry sectors, from marketing to
accountancy, engineering to veterinary nursing,
business administration to construction.
There are three levels:
Intermediate – equivalent to 5 A*-C GCSEs
Advanced – equivalent to 2 A-Levels
Higher – equivalent to foundation degree and
level 4 qualifications.
How long do they take?
Apprenticeships can take between one and four
years to complete depending on the level of
apprenticeship, the apprentice’s ability and the
industry sector.
Why should I take on an apprentice?
Research on the business benefits of
apprenticeships is well evidenced; they are
proven to provide a significant financial return
on investment. Other key findings include:
Increased productivity and competitiveness (80
per cent of those who employ apprentices agree
that they make the workplace more productive).
Reduced staff turnover (88 per cent of apprentice
employers believe that apprenticeships lead to a
more motivated and satisfied workforce).
Avoiding skills shortages (83 per cent of
employers who hire apprentices rely on their
apprenticeship programme to provide the skilled
workers that they need for the future).
A route to harnessing fresh talent (90 per cent of
employers believe that vocationally qualified staff
are vital for their business success).
What funding is available?
Employers are responsible for paying the wage
of their apprentice (the current minimum is
£2.60 per hour). NAS funds 100 per cent of the
apprenticeship training costs if the apprentice is
aged 16-18 years old. If they are 19-24 years old,
up to 50 per cent of the training costs are funded;
if they are 25 years old or over you may only get a
contribution depending on the sector and area in
which you operate.
Is there any support for smaller businesses?
Yes, a new financial incentive to help the smallest
firms recruit their first apprentices has recently
been launched.
NAS is offering up to 40,000 AGE 16 to 24
grants to businesses (employing up to 1,000
employees), to the value of £1,500, that recruit
an apprentice aged 16-24 years old. Businesses
across all sectors that have not employed an
apprentice in the last 12 months may be eligible.
How can I recruit an apprentice?
The first step for any employer who is new to
recruiting apprentices should be to contact
NAS, the organisation that supports, funds and
co-ordinates the delivery of apprenticeships
throughout England. NAS provides a dedicated
service to employers, offering free, expert
advice and support to those looking to recruit
apprentices for the first time, or expand their
apprenticeship programme. $
Apprenticeships
CASE STUDY 2:
THE BRIDAL
GALLERY
Located in
Cheylesmore,
Coventry, The Bridal
Gallery is a specialised
bridal retailer that
has been providing a
high quality service to
brides for 19 years. Owner, Annette
Magli, only recently discovered that bridal
retailers can benefit from the National
Apprenticeship Service. We ask her how it’s
helping her business.
How did you first find out about the
Apprenticeship scheme?
We found out about the scheme when
Warwickshire College approached us and
enquired whether we would be interested in
taking on an apprentice. Several of our staff
members had previously undertaken BTECs in
Customer Service, through on the job training,
but this is the first time we’ve had
an apprentice.
CASE STUDY 1:
SASSI HOLFORD
We talk to talented British bridal designer, Sassi
Holford, who has been recruiting apprentices
for the past three years.
How do you think that recruiting an apprentice
will help your business?
We already have a fabulous team of three bridal
seamstresses who work in-house (we have a
sewing room at the back of the shop). We often
tell brides, quite confidently, that what these
ladies can’t do with a piece of fabric – can’t be
done! It’s great having them around to advise
on tricky fittings and I really do think that their
presence fills brides with confidence when it
comes to having alterations carried out to their
gowns. However, two of them are already past
retirement age (but show no signs of wanting
to retire, nor would we want them to), and
we need to be able to pass their skills and
experience on to the next generation. Having
Roisin join the team will mean that, going
forward, we will have someone in place to fill
the gap when these ladies finally decide to hang
up their tape measures!
initiatives for small to medium businesses are
often fairly bureaucratic. I was then approached
for work experience by a young lady who
was attending a college affiliated with the
apprenticeship scheme, and it began from
there. Our first apprentice was taken on three
years ago and is now in full time employment
with us.
trained in all aspects of the business in order to
gain their diploma in Garment Manufacture.
How are your apprentices mentored?
Because our apprentices are usually between
16-19 years old, we feel it’s important to
provide them with a supportive workplace
environment. Our apprentices each have an inhouse mentor, who has previously completed
the same apprenticeship scheme. They also
have regular visits from an external tutor, who
oversees the placement.
How did you first find out about the National
Apprenticeship Service?
I’d seen press releases on the scheme but
didn’t take a lot of notice as new government
How do you think that recruiting an apprentice
has helped your business?
It’s hugely beneficial to train someone up in
our way of working while they are still learning,
rather than as a fashion graduate. We now take
on two or three apprentices a year, who are
How did you decide which apprentice to recruit?
Roisin had completed a BTEC in Fashion
& Textiles at school, and won us over from
the start. We were adamant in the selection
process that we wanted a bridal seamstress
not a designer, and she made it clear at the
interview that she much preferred to be handson. She was smart, well turned out and polite
and we could see her easily fitting in to the
existing team. What tasks will your apprentice, Roisin, be
carrying out at The Bridal Gallery and how
many hours will she be spending with you?
Roisin works four days a week at the shop,
a total of 28 hours. She then spends Fridays
at Warwickshire College. When she’s with
us, she’s mainly in the sewing room, but
on Saturdays she’s working in the shop as I
feel it’s best for her to learn all sides of the
business, from greeting and advising customers,
processing the orders, fitting and altering the
dress when it arrives with us, and then finally
handing it over the bride.
How many hours does the apprentice spend with
you each week?
All our apprentices work full time, with five
hours out of the working environment to
complete their required study. Two years is the
expected time taken to gain the diploma, but
our apprentices are guided through the process
in around 18 months.
What advice would you give to other bridal
companies on hiring apprentices through the
Government scheme?
A common misconception is that the
apprenticeship scheme is a means of finding
cheap labour. This is not the case and a
company will only get out what they invest by
way of time, effort and mentoring. We teach
our apprentices the technical and practical
aspects of garment manufacture, and invest
significant time and expertise in the process.
Contact
To find out more about
apprenticeships and AGE 16 to 24,
go to www.apprenticeships.org.uk or call the National Apprenticeship
Service on 08000 150 600.
$77,5(
$77,5(
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To advertise here call
Jan Griffin on
+44 (0)1376 535 612
www.attirebridal.com
Fashion files
ATTIRE BRIDAL
Fashion Files
FILE
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Sleeves are big news this season. We showcase
some fabulously feminine bridal gowns, featuring
delicate design details.
Tia by
Benjamin
Roberts
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Gorgeous accessories
to match our two key
bridal trends.
Donna Lee Designs
FILE
Benjamin Adams
PLUS
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We speak to new design
talent, Erica Stacey,
TɉǸȽȇ who reveals why she’s so
inspired by Art Deco and
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the Hollywood golden era.
3
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These softly
shimmering wedding
dresses ensure your
bride will be centre
of attention from day
to night.
$77,5( ·
Blue by Enzoani
+44 (0)1792 586 615
www.enzoani.com
To Cap
It all
Brides are increasingly selecting
cute capped sleeves to provide
an elegant flourish to any
wedding dress silhouette…
$77,5(
File 1
1
2
3
4
1. Charlotte Balbier
+44 (0)1625 521 547
www.charlottebalbier.com
2. Grace Harrington Couture
+44 (0)117 942 8901
www.graceharrington.co.uk
3. Ladybird
+31 (0)35 52 506 11
www.ladybird.nl
4. Tia
+44 (0)1792 564 710
www.tiabridal.co.uk
$77,5( ·
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Suzanne Ermann
+31 (0)35 52 506 11
www.suzanne-ermann.com
$77,5( ·
1
2
3
4
1. Affinity Bridal
+31 (0)35 52 506 11
www.affinity-bridal.com
$77,5(
2. Jesus Peiro
+44 (0)1273 491 077
www.jesuspeiro.com
3. Eternity Bridal
+44 (0)8707 707 670
www.eternitybridal.com
4. Phoenix Gowns
+44 (0)1689 831 841
www.phoenixgowns.co.uk
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+ 44 (0)1424 854387
www.victoriakaygowns.co.uk
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File 2
Lido Pearls
+44 (0)1245 360 949
www.lido-collection.co.uk
The Collections
To accompany our bridal fashion features this issue, we’ve
compiled a selection of accessories to complete the look.
Starlet Jewellery
+44 (0)1395 224 284
www.starletjewellery.co.uk
Debbie Carlisle
debbie@dcbouquets.co.uk
www.dcbouquets.co.uk
High Shine
Lily Bella Bridal
wholesale@lilybella.co.uk
www.lilybella.co.uk
Benjamin Adams
+44 (0)20 8509 0001
www.paradoxlondon.com
Enhance any bride’s wedding day glow with these
eye-catching accessories.
Corrine Smith
+44 (0)1563 532 561
www.corrinesmith.co.uk
Aura
+44 (0)20 8885 8000
www.paradoxlondon.com
Modern romance
These fabulously feminine designs are
the perfect accompaniment to gowns
featuring cute capped sleeves.
Jesus Peiro
+44 (0)1273 491 077
www.jesuspeiro.com
Sophia 203 from Esiya Ltd
+44 (0)7436 091 060
www.esiya.com
$77,5(
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The Essential Collection will give bridal retailers the chance to see the 2014 collections for the first time in the UK.
The event will not only showcase collections from names well known within the industry but also designers not seen at other
bridal exhibitions.
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The Essential Collection takes place at the centre of the country within 100
miles of most major cities.
The event includes
8 catwalk shows
and a full seminar
programme. For
more details see
www.tec2013.com
Entry is free for trade
buyers and there are
up to 30,000 free
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It’s all about choice
It’s all about location
It’s all about timing
It’s all about The Essential Collection
File 3
PȨȹȐ
to shine
These softly shimmering wedding
dresses ensure your bride will be centre
of attention from day to night.
Cabotine
+34 968 87 37 97
www.cabotine.es
$77,5( ·
1
2
3
4
1. Donna Lee Designs +44 (0)845 519 1797 www.donnaleedesigns.co.uk 2. Katya Katya Shehurina +44(0)20 7734 1272
www.shehurina.com 3. Heritage by Balbier/Wyatt +44 (0)161 493 2700 www.charlottebalbier.com 4. Da Vinci Bridal
+44 (0)1727 851 452 www.davincibridal.com
$77,5(
File 3
Eddy K
+44 (0)1204 888 285
www.eddyk.com
$77,5( ·
1
2
3
4
1. Amanda Wyatt +44 (0)161 493 2700 www.amandawyatt.com 2. Beautiful by Enzoani +44 (0)1792 586 615
www.enzoani.com 3. Couture Collection by Impression Bridal +44 (0)1727 851 452 www.impressionbridal.co.uk
4. The Vintage Wedding Dress Company +44 (0)20 637 4898 www.thevintageweddingdresscompany.com
$77,5(
TɉǸȽȇ
COMING
Erica Stacey is passionate about
British manufacturing, so it’s no
surprise that her first two bridal
collections have been designed
and made in the UK. Read on to
find out more…
Rebecca
$77,5(
Up and coming
Contact
Erica Stacey
+44 (0)161 877 5864
www.ericastacey.co.uk
Can you tell us a little about your design background?
I have a BA(Hons) in Fashion Design with Product Development and have
worked as a designer and creative pattern cutter for a few well-known high
street brands. I started my own bespoke dress making business in 2009.
When did you set up your bridal label and what prompted you to do so?
In 2011 I went into partnership with Terry Keane who has more than 30
years of experience in the clothing industry, and launched my first ready-towear collection.
I wanted to offer a collection of dresses that were made of the finest
fabrics, laces and trims. Each gown is handmade in our studio in
Manchester so not only do we have short lead times, we can make the
experience more personal for a bride or a boutique. Creating our own
patterns gives us complete control and allows us to offer split sizes, thereby
reducing the price of alterations. We can effectively merge two dresses
together as often a bride likes different details from more than one dress.
Setting up my own bridal label has given me the opportunity to work
with brides-to-be and be part of helping to create their dream day. This gives
me great job satisfaction.
How would you describe your signature style?
My ready-to-wear collections have been described as quintessentially
English, feminine and pretty. My gowns are designed for real women. I
love to layer fabrics and trims and to try new effects. Most of my dresses
allow the bride to create different looks throughout her wedding day with
interchangeable details such as removable skirts for a two-in-one look and
tops or jackets made of the same chiffon or lace as the dress. I also make sure
that the backs of my gowns are as beautiful as the front, as a bride’s guests
will spend some considerable time looking at the back of her dress!
For my debut Vintage Luxury collection I took inspiration from the
Golden Age of Hollywood Glamour and the Art Deco movement.
What inspires you about bridal design?
Ever since I was a little girl I’ve dreamed of getting married one day, and
imagined what my dress might be like. My Nanna has always been a great
inspiration to me, as she was a seamstress for Harrods in the 1950s. I would
also admit to a slight obsession with the science of garment construction
and understanding how different fabrics behave to flatter any shape or size
figure. I love to design for real women and enjoy the challenge of making
the most important dress they will ever wear!
Why did you take the decision to branch out into wholesale?
I had considered creating a collection for a while but could never quite
see how I could achieve it without help. Whilst working at my previous
company I got to know Terry Keane who has a wealth of experience in the
clothing trade. I asked him if he would be interested in a joint venture to
launch a bridal collection and he was mad enough to agree! We are now
equal business partners and work well together. He’s also a trained pattern
cutter and understands garment construction really well. If things get a bit
full on I think we fall back on our sense of humour to help us out.
In January 2012 we launched our debut collection at Tatton Park
Wedding Fayre and were delighted with the feedback.
How many retailers currently stock your label and how do you plan to grow
this stockist base?
We are currently stocked in three retailers: Isla Jean Bridal in Lees Village,
Oldham, Melanie James Bridal in Chorlton, Manchester, and Kudos who
have shops in Edinburgh and Dunfermline.
We recently showed our first two collections at the British Bridal
Exhibition in Harrogate. During the show, we spoke to many retailers
who loved our gowns. We do not insist on a minimum order so our
brand is suited to new retailers who may not have the budget to buy too
many dresses from one label. A boutique can order just one of our gowns,
although we hope that once they take delivery they will want to order more!
We recognise working closely with all our stockists is key to success.
How would you describe your latest collection?
Our second collection is called the English Garden collection, which
consists of five dresses each named after a flower. They have a romantic feel
with beautiful handmade flowers and trims on each gown.
Where are your gowns designed and made, and for what reason?
Our dresses are designed and made in our studio in Manchester. We are well
positioned to offer consultations with clients who require a bespoke option,
whether it be a wedding gown, bridesmaid dresses, mother of the bride/
groom outfit or just a beautiful dress for that special occasion. A massive
part of starting this business is that both Terry and I are passionate about
keeping British manufacturing alive; I can never see a time when we would
use overseas factories to produce our garments.
What is your favourite piece from the collection and why?
My personal favourite is called Rebecca from our debut Vintage Luxury
collection. It’s a slinky gown in the finest silk with stunning circular
patterned lace. It has beautiful silk chiffon inserts in the hem to create a
fabulous train and separate over top with an unusual pearl edge trim which
makes a lovely sound when the bride walks. It can even be worn after the
wedding, perhaps on honeymoon.
What type of retailer is your collection most suited to?
In our first year we have spoken with lots of retailers to get to try and
understand their viewpoint. I think our gowns suit retailers who want
to offer their discerning brides something original. All of our dresses are
designed and handmade in Britain by people who are passionate about
quality. Our retailers know that they can talk to the people who are in
complete control of every stage of the construction of each dress, and are
available to answer any questions that may arrive from the point of order to
final delivery.
What do you hope to achieve in the next five years?
Our target over the next five years is to be well represented in retailers across
Great Britain, and in that time to have built a strong reputation for being a
leading British design label. We would love to grow our business organically
and to add to our current team of employees, all of whom share our
enthusiasm for creating beautiful gowns. We care deeply about our people
and would not be where we are today without their input. $
$77,5(
Looking ahead
The British Bridal Association’s (BBA) Ex-Chairman, Joe
Sweeney, sums-up the current state of the UK bridal market and
suggests the best way for new businesses to survive and thrive.
As an estimate there
are around 1,100 retail
bridalwear shops in the UK
at present, not including
occasionwear specialists,
formalwear hire, bridal
accessories shops and so
forth. An estimated 92 per cent of these retail
bridal shops are independent businesses. Add
to these the multiples such as Berketex and
Pronuptia plus the occasional forays into the
market by mainstream department stores, and
you have the total number of shops specialising
in bridalwear in the UK. The large stores have
only a small percentage of the market, simply
because they don’t offer the wide ranges that
the independents carry, and cannot supply the
service that’s needed for alterations and fittings.
In addition, the larger stores need to sell
quantities of the same style of dress thus
inhibiting choice. They need large orders for the
same styles so that the Far Eastern factories can
produce in bulk.
However, the high street stores have a big
price advantage, and their gross profit (GP)
margins are well beyond those achieved by
the independents. The average GP for the
independents is generally around 42-45 per cent
but the big stores can operate on as much as 70
per cent GP.
When it comes to turnover, small retailers
need a minimum of around £150k per annum in
order to justify their overheads. Indeed, 45 per
cent of £150k is £67.5k, out of which comes rent,
rates, insurances, salaries, travel, bank charges,
advertising and exhibiting at bridal fairs. It’s no
wonder that the small shops only have a one per
cent pre-tax net profit. The UK’s manufacturers,
distributors and importers are not much better
off, especially since they have, over recent years,
been absorbing larger factory costs from sources
such as China. Factory workers in China have
become more socially aware and in striving for a
better lifestyle, their government has insisted on
$77,5(
better factory conditions and higher wages being
paid by their employers.
Put all the facts together, add the current
economic climate and it’s no wonder that nearly
all retail bridal shops are cutting prices or offering
free services. The effect of this is to further lower
the retailer’s GP margin.
There are no accurate figures for the annual
number of UK weddings. The Office of National
Statistics (ONS) says that 265,000 weddings per
year are registered here but this takes no account
of weddings abroad which could add another
40,000. However, the ONS says that only 32
per cent of UK weddings are religious (meaning
church weddings). The remaining weddings
are officiated at registry offices, hotels or other
approved places. The significance of religious
weddings is that traditionally a full gown is worn,
whereas in approved places, such gowns are not
always the norm. These figures have a direct
bearing on the number of wedding gowns sold
and the ONS records something like a two per
cent reduction in the annual number of weddings
taking place in the UK.
It’s no wonder, therefore, that forecasts predict
that the 1,100 specialist bridalwear shops will
reduce to just under 1,000 within the next couple
of years. That’s not necessarily a bad thing since
the well-established shops are expected to carry
fewer suppliers but a wider range of their styles.
While there will always be new shops starting
up, they need to be better financed than in the
past. Records at Companies House show that 40
per cent of such businesses fail within the first
three years. In the bridal trade such failures are
easy to explain. Someone has, say, £30k available
for a start-up and that’s perfectly acceptable.
The rent is paid, a stock of samples is purchased
and salaries are set aside. But then along come
the brides, who place their orders with a 50 per
cent deposit. This covers the cost of the gowns
but doesn’t contribute to overheads. That’s when
the shop owner slowly runs out of capital. After
opening the shop with the available capital, the
TURNOVER
150K
RENT
RATES
INSURANCES
SALARIES
67.5K
TRAVEL
BANK CHARGES
ADVERTISING
EXHIBITING
owner needs a further financial injection for
those dress repeats. That’s the difficult part. So,
anyone who starts such a business must have at
least as much money again in order to remain
afloat. The golden rule is that if a new business
uses more than 50 per cent of its available capital
to actually open the doors, then unfortunately it’s
likely to be a failure.
By far the best way for a newcomer to enter the
trade is to buy an existing established business
by paying a lump sum up front and then paying
the balance out of future profits. There’s nothing
better than using the experience of a previous
owner to get things moving on a good footing.
Pitfalls can be avoided and there is always a
‘future’ order book with guaranteed income,
often for a couple of years ahead. In general, very
few industries can offer guaranteed income but
the bridal trade is almost unique in that respect.
Although not many bridal businesses are
advertised as being for sale, an investor would
be well advised to ignore that fact and make
contact (via a professional) with a few shops in
the required area and ask whether or not the
businesses are available. Frankly people are often
very surprised at the result, which could well be
positive. This creates an element of choice and it’s
far better than taking the nail-biting risk of going
it alone. $
Contact
The British
Bridalwear Association
+44 (0)121 321 3939
www.bbabridalwear.com
by Wishes
GLAMOROUS
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The perfect solution for your perfect day.
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Secret support
Boost your brides’ confidence, and your sales, with a good
selection of chic contouring lingerie – we speak to some
leading suppliers to find out their top-sellers.
Alan Gordon-Freeman,
Alterego
What have been your
best-selling items of bridal
lingerie over the past 12
months – why do you
think this is?
Gracya Jonquil, in
stunning ivory, has sold exceptionally well over
the past 12 months. It comes in a wide range of
sizes, from a 30” underband up to an F cup. In
addition, Gracya’s Miette corset, in soft ivory, has
been popular. We think that the sheer beauty of
the lace has caught brides’ imaginations. Gracya
is a European lingerie manufacturer that uses the
finest French and Italian fabrics and adornments.
The lingerie is actually designed by a renowned
wedding dress manufacturer. Its Rococo II design
has also sold well, and adds a touch of dazzle,
using real Swarovski crystals against a pretty pale
ivory colour. Other top sellers for bridal shops
have been Beauty Night’s honeymoon chemise,
and the sexy and pretty Wolbar garter which is
affordable, dainty, and a bridal shop staple.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
what percentage of these are bridal retailers?
We have hundreds of stockists in the UK and
estimate that 20 per cent of our customers are
either bridal shops or specialist bridal lingerie
shops and e-tailers.
What is your top-selling size for UK brides?
This is very difficult to answer as the very small,
and the very large sizes sell well. Overall, 36B is
probably the biggest seller. Brides make an extra
effort to ensure they’re properly fitted for their
big day. At Alterego, we try to encourage the
dress fitter to measure and fit the bra correctly,
and then fit the dress to the underwear. Not only
does this method produce the best appearance,
but the fitter need only have one size of each
style on display, and they can order directly from
us with a next day delivery from our warehouse.
This saves the retailer having to invest in, and
carry, lots of unnecessary stock.
Do you offer a specialist plus-size range?
We do. Shapewear is becoming much more
popular with bridal shops, and we distribute the
Italian manufactured Control body range. It’s
very well made, using seamless technology, and
is keenly priced, so it’s becoming increasingly
popular with dress fitters. Also some of the
romantic honeymoon lingerie and nightwear
from Iral’l or Passion fits up to an XXXL.
$77,5(
Many bridal shops will stock a bridal accessory/
jewellery line before lingerie – why do you
think this is, and how would you persuade them
otherwise?
Probably because jewellery is an easier option,
and it is also visible! We think that many bridal
retailers are missing a trick, and giving their
lingerie business away to someone else. Some
fitters may be unsure of bra fitting; however, we
do offer free training for bra fitting, and many
who have come along to these sessions now have
the confidence to sell lingerie and enhance their
sales. With good point of sale, pretty displays,
and attractive margins, lingerie should be an
integral part of any bridal business.
What support can you offer to UK bridal retailers?
We offer all our retailers excellent customer
service and good advice when choosing stock.
We also provide free point of sale material, next
day delivery, great mark-ups, free newsletters, free
business advice from an in-house professional
business advisor –basically if we can give our
retailers help in any way, we will!
Are you launching any new designs/bridal
collections over the coming months?
Alterego distributes 10 brands, many of which
introduce new lines frequently. With Christmas
almost upon us, Valentine’s Day looming, and
the start of a new bridal season, there will be lots
of new products.
Lingerie
Mike Eve, MD,
Patricia Eve
What have been your
best-selling items of bridal
lingerie over the past 12
months – why do you
think this is?
Style 45910 – our
Superior Derriere High Waist Brief has been our
best seller. It’s very practical and suits a greater
number of wedding dresses than the other styles.
What is your top-selling size for UK brides?
Our top-selling size is M(12)-L(14), although
all the styles have a size ratio of S(10) – XL(16).
I think the reason M and L outsold the other
two sizes is because the average British women
is a size 12-14. Also, the Body Wrap range’s
unique selling point is the fact that the garment
is seamless so shapes and smoothes without
showing under clothes, unlike other ranges that
offer a firmer control.
Do you offer a specialist plus-size range?
We do not offer a specialist plus-size bridal range
at the moment.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
what percentage of these are bridal retailers?
We have a few national stockists, for example,
Next, Debenhams, Figleaves and shapewear.
co.uk. We also supply smaller boutiques all over
the country and, excluding the national retailers,
I would say it is split about 50/50 between bridal
shops and shops that sell lingerie.
Many bridal shops will stock a bridal accessory/
jewellery line before lingerie – why do you think
this is?
This is because bridal lingerie is generally
more specialised than items such as jewellery
and accessories. In fact, most bridal shops will
actually tell customers to come back when they
have purchased their underwear elsewhere. As
most shops are struggling to hit sales targets,
it therefore seems counterproductive to tell a
potential customer to source their underwear at
another retail store. Instead, why not stock Body
Wrap Bride? Even if the customer doesn’t buy
their dress from you, you could still get a sale.
What support can you offer to UK bridal retailers?
We offer a next day delivery service to anywhere
in the UK. This allows our customers to carry
a smaller amount of stock and offers them the
reassurance that as soon as they put an order in,
the stock arrives the next working day.
We also offer a wide range of point of sale
including stands, a poster, counter stands, leaflets,
note books, pens and so forth.
Are you launching any new designs/bridal
collections over the coming months?
We have no plans to launch additional designs
at present.
$77,5(·
Mia Holtzman,
Jule France Body
Shapers and Benmark
Foundations Ltd
Are you launching any new designs/bridal
collections over the coming months?
Julie France Body Shapers is constantly
brainstorming and designing new shapewear
options to help brides, mothers, grandmothers
and bridesmaids feel and look their absolute best
on the big day.
What have been your
best-selling items of
bridal lingerie over the
past 12 months?
Our best sellers are the JF013 (High-Waist Boxer
Shaper), JF016 (Cami Dress Shaper) and JF018
(High-Waist Slip Shaper). These products are
versatile and can be worn under most gowns.
They suit the fitted bridal gown and are great for
the mother of the bride and bridesmaids.
What is your top-selling size for UK brides?
Our best-selling size for the brides is a medium.
ONE TO WATCH
Scandale
This French brand dates back to the 1930’s
in its native country but is new to the UK.
Every gorgeous piece is inspired by vintage
glamour and design.
The collection boasts laced bras, full highwaisted briefs, retro skirts and luxurious slips
and camisoles. Each piece is available in a
golden nude colourway — ideal for brides as
they are not visible through wedding dresses
but give the perfect feminine curves brides
desire on their big day.
For further details telephone
+44 (0)207 361 0750.
Do you offer a specialist plus-size range?
Yes – the Julie France Body Shapers range is
made up to a US 3XL which equates to a UK
dress size 28-30.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
what percentage of these are bridal retailers?
We have approximately 250 stockists with about
75 per cent being bridal retailers.
Many bridal shops will stock a bridal accessory/
jewellery line before lingerie – why do you
think this is, and how would you persuade them
otherwise?
Many bridal shop owners will be worried about
the space they need to stock the goods and about
how to display them. We would try to persuade
retailers to try a few styles and sizes and take a
piece in the dressing room to fit the bride. In this
way, they can show their customers how good the
fit is, and how easy it is to wear.
What support can you offer to UK bridal retailers?
We offer a friendly, helpful service to our
customers and like them to feel that they can call
us with any problems. We will always try to solve
any problems or issues that they might have.
$77,5(
Lingerie
Debbie Palman,
Dominique Bridal
Lingerie
What have been your
best-selling items of bridal
lingerie over the past 12
months – why do you
think this is?
Our best-selling
O
b t llin items
it
are styles 6377, 8949,
7750 and 8541. These have the best size range,
and give support and control under the wedding
dress. In addition, styles 6377 and 7750 are
low backed and have a plunge front so that
they can be worn under a low back dress with a
sweetheart neckline.
What is your top-selling size for UK brides?
Our top selling size for UK brides is 32D.
Do you offer a specialist plus-size range?
Our basque, style 8949, is made to a 48” back
and an F cup, while style 8950 is made to a 52”
back and an F cup once again.
How many stockists do you have in the UK?
We have around 250 stockists in the UK, about
75 per cent of which are bridal shops.
John Roskalns, MD of
Charnos Hosiery
What have been your
best-selling items of bridal
hosiery over the past 12
months – why do you
think this is?
Our best selling hosiery
pieces are the bridal lace top hold ups and lace
top stockings.
What is your top-selling size for UK brides?
Our top-selling size for UK brides is a medium.
Do you offer a specialist plus-size range?
No, the Charnos bridal range goes up to size
large and covers more than 90 per cent of
consumer requirements.
How many stockists do you have in the UK and
what percentage of these are bridal retailers?
Less than 10 per cent of Charnos stockists are
bridal shops but we are looking to increase the
number of bridal outlets in spring/summer 2013.
Many bridal shops will stock a bridal accessory/
jewellery line before lingerie – why do you think
this is?
Many bridal shops will stock a bridal accessory/
jewellery line before lingerie – why do you think
this is?
Many bridal shops are frightened about stocking
bridal underwear as they think that it’s difficult
to fit, and that they would have to stock a vast
array of sizes that they can’t accommodate. We
try to explain that it’s more important to take the
back size and an average cup to start with, and to
build up the stock slowly.
What support can you offer to UK bridal retailers?
Retailers can provide us with their brides’
measurements, and we will calculate the correct
lingerie sizes.
Are you launching any new designs/bridal
collections over the coming months?
As far as I am aware, there will not be any new
collections over the coming months.
Hosiery is an obvious add on after gown
selection. It’s easy for the retailer to manage with
minimum stock holding requirements and a 48
hour delivery service. Many bridal shops simply
aren’t aware about Charnos bridal hosiery.
What support can you offer to UK bridal retailers?
We provide fabulous customer service, along
with excellent personalised advice for retailers
and consumers.
Are you launching any new designs/bridal
collections over the coming months?
Our brand new bridal gift set will be available in
spring 2013. $
CONTACTS
Alterego
+44 (0) 845 094 6603
www.alterego-lingerie.com
Dominique Bridal Lingerie
+44 (0)20 8908 2690
www.benmarkltd.com
Julie France
+44 (0)20 8908 2690
www.juliefrance.com
Body Wrap Bride
+44 (0)1423 885 374
www.patricia-eve.co.uk
Charnos
+44 (0)1623 522 550
www.charnos.co.uk
$77,5(
Something Blue
RISING STAR
We speak to H.J. Park, Manager at Grace
Harrington Couture, to find out more
about this growing bridal brand.
$77,5(
Something Blue
Selby
Bromley
Harrogate
Profile
Contact
Grace Harrington
Couture
+44 (0)117 942 8901
www.graceharrington.co.uk
When was Grace Harrington Couture
first launched?
Grace Harrington was first launched in 2009,
initially as an experimental in-house label by
Susan Byron, who has worked in bridal retail
for more than 20 years, and her son Walter,
who put the collections together. Grace
Harrington herself has been working in bridal
retail for more than 50 years, a decade of
which has been at Just For You Bridal in
Bristol’s Bond Street. We, therefore, thought
it fitting to name the label after someone who
has helped so many brides find their dresses
for such a long time.
How has the company evolved since this
time and what have been the key milestones
in its development?
Shortly after starting the label, we received
such positive customer feedback and sales
that we decided to take the next step into
wholesale. Grace Harrington Couture first
launched to the trade at the British Bridal
Exhibition in Harrogate, in March 2011,
where the product was very well received.
We were also delighted with the feedback
and orders we took at The Essential
Collection this year, and our ranges can now
be found in more than 60 bridal retailers.
How many collections come under the Grace
Harrington Couture umbrella and how do
they complement one another?
We have two collections: the inaugural
Something Blue Collection, which has been
followed up with the Sapphire Collection.
As the economy is unlikely to recover in
the near future, we made the conscious
decision to only release one collection a
year, thereby taking the pressure off our
stockists to place frequent orders.
Where are the gowns designed and how
integral is this to the identity of the brand?
The gowns are proudly designed in
Bristol. We have a small team that’s
continually identifying new styles through
communicating with brides, sketching
designs, talking to our stockists and looking
out for new fabrics and inspiration.
Once we compile our new concepts,
Walter then works with the production team
on the finer details.
What inspired your latest bridal collection
and which of the gowns do you predict will
be best sellers in the UK?
This is difficult to anticipate: the dress I
predict to sell well may not do as well as
expected, while another style could be our
unexpected best seller. I have learnt that the
British bride is unpredictable, but if I have
to pick one gown, I would say Bromley or
Knightsbridge.
What do you expect will be the key bridal
trends with regards to style, fabric and
embellishment for next season?
I think that lace will be on the decline. I have
seen so many designers go overboard on
lace for the past few seasons, especially
after the Royal Wedding, so I think the British
bride will start to look at other fabrics. I have
a sneaking suspicion that Mikado might be
due a comeback.
What support are you able to offer to your
stockists in the UK?
I can offer our retailers designer days,
sample dresses, retail sales training upon
request, and an honest service. Furthermore,
I do not discontinue our styles. If the retailer
can sell it, I can make it.
At present consumer confidence in the
economy is still low. How do you think this
will further impact on the bridal market in the
coming year?
I always ask my stockists to buy the gowns
they think they can sell rather than what they
like themselves. By knowing their brides,
taking care of them and responding to
their needs, retailers will always be able to
generate sales.
The bride has more options than ever
before, so customer service is key – make
them want to buy from you rather than from
your competition.
Your signature walking balloon dogs can
be seen wherever you exhibit. Whose idea
was this originally, and how successful has it
been as a marketing initiative?
Originally it was Walter’s idea; however he
bought more than 3,000 of them! If any
of our stockists would like some walking
balloon dogs, then get in touch. At trade
shows there is so much competition, so
anything that might help you stand out from
the crowd is a good idea.
How do you plan to grow Grace Harrington
Couture over the coming year?
Our 2013 collection was very well received,
with positive feedback on the materials,
designs and the construction. We are
already taking repeat orders on the styles.
We have also taken on a few more stockists,
but I would rather concentrate on having
a wonderful working relationship with my
present stockists than trying to expand too
quickly. We will continue designing and
producing dresses, and hopefully they will
make my stockists a good return on their
investments. $
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Christmas Cover
Commercial Account Executive, Rachael Carrington (Cert CII) from
specialist broker Hine Insurance, offers her advice on how to prepare
your bridal business in the lead up to the festive season.
It’s hard to believe but, yes,
we really are in November and
Christmas will soon be upon
us. So, with just weeks until
the festivities begin, now’s the
perfect time to review your
current insurance policy and
check for any gaps in cover.
Most bridal shops usually close for at least a
few days over Christmas and into the New Year.
Whether you’re closed for a short while or for
the entire month, there’s always the chance that
something could happen whilst the premises
are unoccupied.
Here are a few things to consider when
preparing your business for the coming weeks:
Thefts and burglaries are on the rise.
Once upon a time, theft was one of the most
infrequent causes of a claim and there was little
need to worry about being subjected to a theft.
It’s now becoming increasingly common and
poses a real threat to bridalwear businesses.
Over the last 12 months we have seen a
significant rise in theft claims of over 225 per
cent from the preceding year. So what can you
do to protect your’s and your customers’ assets
whilst closed?
“Thefts and burglaries are on the
rise. Once upon a time, theft was
one of the most infrequent causes
of a claim and there was little
need to worry about being subject
to a theft. It’s now becoming
increasingly common and
poses a real threat to
bridalwear businesses.”
Firstly, you should have a minimum of key
operated window locks on accessible windows,
sky lights and a five lever mortice door lock on
your main entrance and exit doors.
Then think about other physical deterrents
such as external shutters or internal collapsible
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grills and intruder alarms with or without police
response, as these could help to deter thieves.
You should always refer to your own insurance
policy to see if there are particular security
requirements you must adhere to. If you don’t,
you may find yourself uninsured against theft
and malicious damage claims.
Before locking up for Christmas have a close
look around the interior and exterior of the
premises and check the following:
1) The water supply is turned off – burst pipes
can be your worst nightmare, especially if they
have been left for days or even weeks over the
festive season.
2) Your gutters have been cleared – ingress of
water can cause widespread damage to your
vulnerable stock and expensive contents. In
addition to physical damage, dirty rain water
could create an unpleasant odour, leaving you
to have some or all your delicate stock items
professionally cleaned.
3) All electrical items and any Christmas
decorations are unplugged to reduce the risk of
electrical fires – if there’s an appliance you want
to leave on overnight make sure your insurer is
aware and they have accepted this, just in case
of emergency.
What gaps in cover should you address
before the festive season?
If you retail or hire prom or formal wear, this
may be one of your busiest periods. Ensure
you have an adequate stock sum insured or at
least check your policy for details of seasonal
increase cover. This can usually range from 10
per cent – 60 per cent automatic increase, but
be careful as it will only apply at specific times
throughout the year.
If you are one of the lucky ones, and close
for weeks rather than days, it’s important to
check the unoccupancy condition within your
policy. This condition usually restricts the cover
provided by the policy and imposes strict
requirements on things such as your mains
services. This can apply after 21 days on some
policies so check your own policy for details.
We wish you a happy and claim-free
Christmas. $
Hine offers:
• specialist knowledge in the bridal
sector
• expert advice on the type and level of
insurance you need
• competitive quotations from a range of
leading insurers
• help with your claim in the unfortunate
event of a loss
• comprehensive after-sales support
Contact
Hine Insurance
+44 (0)161 438 0000
www.hine.co.uk
@hineinsurance
facebook.com/hineinsurance
(OL]DEHWK'LFNHQV
HPDLOQLQDDQGDODQ#IUHHXNFRPZHEHOL]DEHWKGLFNHQVYHLOVFRXN
City chic
Russell Blackburn, owner of Blackburn Bridal Couture, talks
to Attire Bridal about setting up his beautiful boutique, and the
recent launch of his occasionwear studio.
When did you first open Blackburn Bridal Couture, and
with what business aim?
I opened Blackburn Bridal Couture in 2005 to
offer something fresh, modern and alternative to
British brides.
How would you describe your current in-store
bridal collection?
It has a real vintage feel, with a focus on bohemia
for all those unconventional brides. We focus on
beautiful gowns that offer an original look.
What criteria do you have when sourcing and
selecting your designers?
We always seek out designers who offer
unstructured gowns, with beautiful clean lines
that flatter the body and offer excellent fit. All
the designers I work with are incredibly talented
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and create work of the highest calibre; this is a
huge draw for our brides.
How important is it to keep on top of the bridal
trends, given that you are based in London?
It’s very important. But with bridal it’s more
about the quality and fit of the dresses in the
London shops as there are so many designers and
boutiques offering a wide range of dresses. For us,
it’s more important to offer the best in quality,
design and fit, as this will encourage our brides
to recommend the boutique to all their friends
and family.
What do you enjoy most about your role and the
bridal business in general?
Buying and merchandising are my favourite parts
of the job, as I feel I have a good sense of what is
Retailer interview
Contact
“I’ve surrounded myself with
good staff and seamstresses,
which has been the key to my
success. I treat my staff well and
respect the wonderful job they
do for me and for our brides.”
stylish and beautiful. Therefore, when our brides
do come for an appointment they’re always so
taken with our fabulous dresses.
What do you feel makes your shop unique and how
do you self-promote?
I’m a massive fan of marketing and advertising
as I know it works. There are many bridal stores
to choose from but promoting my business
through the top bridal magazines, coupled with
great press coverage, goes a long way to make
sure I’m at the forefront of all the brides’ minds.
Added to this, I have a beautiful shop in a truly
great location.
How do you ensure that the service your boutique
provides is second to none?
I’ve surrounded myself with good staff and
seamstresses, which has been the key to my
success. I treat my staff well and respect the
wonderful job they do for me and for our brides.
What do you believe is the key to running a successful
bridal retail business?
As above, the staff and level of service is key to
running a successful business - if you have that
in place, the rest should come naturally.
What would you say are the main challenges you
face as a bridal shop owner?
Copycat designers and retailers that offer
discounts bring the industry down. I feel that we
need to stand firm with our existing offering: we
cannot be compared to other shops as very few
offer the same quality and level of service.
Congratulations on the opening of your new
occasionwear studio. What prompted you to expand
into this sector of the market and why did you decide
a separate premises was necessary?
Although the occasionwear studio is not a
separate business, we decided to locate it in a
separate building, just a two-minute walk from
the bridal shop. In my opinion, occasionwear
needs as much time and service given to it as our
bridal offering so I felt mixing the two in one
shop could be challenging as we pride ourselves
Blackburn Bridal Couture
+44 (0)20 8297 1188
www.blackburnbridal.co.uk
on a very
personal service.
My motivation
to open an
occasionwear
boutique was prompted by requests from many
mothers of the bride - they loved our style
in bridal and this gave me the confidence to
diversify into occasionwear!
What changes have you witnessed within the
bridal industry during your time as the Manager
of a boutique?
In my seven years of owning a bridal boutique,
I have seen the industry grow vastly. There are
so many more designers in the market and, with
European and American designers entering into
the UK, it will just continue to grow. This is
great for my business, and for brides, as there is
so much more choice.
What are your plans for Blackburn Bridal Couture
over the next few years?
To continue being the best boutique we can
for our brides. I would also like to grow the
occasionwear and accessories side of the
operation as there is most certainly good
business to be had if you know your market! $
$77,5(
NEW CHARCOAL MOHAIR FOR 2012
Already with several awards, our Stock Service garments
feature not just the traditional English look, but an exciting and
hugely successful lightweight Mohair Family: Silver Grey, Navy,
Sandford, Black and now Charcoal.
Window dressing
Downton
Dreams
With the new series of Downton on
screen now, Nancy Hayes creates an
eye-catching bridal window display
inspired by the popular drama.
Benjamin Adams Claudia, £189,
+44 (0)20 8885 8000
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Silver Five Hook Coat Stand, £295,
Sweetpea & Willow
+44 (0)845 257 2627
www.sweetpeaandwillow.com
Lady Mary by
Naomi Neoh
+44 (0)20 8670 7070
www.naomineoh.com
Barnard clock, £95,
The Chandelier & Mirror Company Ltd
+44 (0)1322 437 112
www.chandeliersandmirrors.co.uk
Golden clutch bag, £55,
It’s Vintage Darling
+44 (0)20 7684 3709
www.itsvintagedarling.com
Pearl And Silver
Stud Earrings, £25, Aye Do
+44 (0)845 680 8093
www.ayedo.co.uk
Bird Cage eight light
chandelier lantern,
£427, Artisanti
+44 (0)845 259 1410
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Monceau Hair Claw,
£52, Stone Bridge
+44 (0)1732 883 820
www.stone-bridge.co.uk
$77,5(
Festive Plans
We chat to six bridal shop owners to find out how they tackle the Christmas period, as well as
discovering plans for the New Year.
Kellie Sykes,
Wedding Belles of Otley
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
I usually decorate the
boutique during the last week
of November, changing the theme and colour
each year. I love Christmas and, in particular,
dressing the shop. Our brides love its festive new
look, and passers-by often pop in to comment on
the beautiful window display. Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
In previous years I’ve organised the Christmas
decorations and displays, although this year
I’m encouraging my staff to contribute too.
Last year I put up a tree for the first time and it
looked beautiful, so I will be investing in another
this year. I love decorations that catch the eye,
however I’m always careful not to over-decorate
as it can look quite cluttered. Simple and elegant
works perfectly and complements the shop’s
general ambiance.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
We’re in the early stages of planning a Christmas
event which will involve mulled wine, mince pies
and a special offer for our brides.
When do you close the boutique over
Christmas, and how soon do you open again
after Christmas Day?
I close the shop a few days before Christmas and
have a well-earned rest. We’re shut for around
two weeks.
What are your New Year’s resolutions?
I’m not looking to make any big changes, just
to keep doing what we do best: helping brides
whilst providing outstanding customer service.
$77,5(
Claire Miller,
White Dresses and Tiaras
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
We always decorate the shop
on the 1st December (or the
closest working day to the 1st) –it’s an unwritten
rule for us! The decorations go up and the
Christmas songs get played every day until the
New Year. We can’t wait!
Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
Myself and a colleague usually decorate the
boutique. We have a big 7ft tree in the main
showroom, usually decorated in golds and silvers
to complement the shop colour scheme and the
bridal gowns. We also erect a couple of smaller
trees for the window displays along with lots of
accessories – the more sparkle the better.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
We don’t have anything planned as yet but, as my
brain is always ticking, you never know what’s
going to happen!
When do you close the boutique over
Christmas, and how soon do you open again
after Christmas Day?
I’m planning on closing on 22nd December and
re-opening on the Wednesday after the New Year.
It’s a good opportunity for myself and the rest of
the team to re-charge our batteries.
What are your New Year’s resolutions?
I don’t really tend to set New Year’s resolutions
but the plan is as always to work hard, keep
exceeding customer expectations…oh and maybe
eat a few less biscuits!
Laura Jones, Mrs Jones
Bridal Boutique
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
We will try and tie it in
with the town’s Christmas
light switch-on which usually falls at the end of
November or early December.
Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
I’ll be overseeing our decorations this year. Last
year (our first) we tried to keep things simple and
concentrate mainly on the windows rather than
inside the boutique. We used festive window
vinyls to create some simple eye-catching designs
and used ivy for colour. We don’t have lots of
room inside the shop so we erected a simple tree
with clear lights and gold decorations.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
We’ve not finalised our plans yet but any event
will be held well before the Christmas period.
Last year we found early December was busy but
the closer we got to Christmas Day, people were
focused on Christmas shopping and family!
When are you closed over Christmas, and how
soon do you open again after Christmas Day?
Our last day will be Saturday 22nd December and
we will re-open in the New Year.
What are your New Year resolutions?
More planning! It’s difficult to do when
you’re running the business but we’ve recently
welcomed new team members so we’ll be focused
on training and events. I’d also like to take a
holiday next year!
Retailer round-up
Nikki Graeme,
The White Closet
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
We love Christmas and
normally aim to get our
window display finished by
the first weekend in December. Last year we
placed a vintage wooden sleigh in our window to
showcase our gorgeous Rachel Simpson shoes.
Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
Eve Broadhurst is The White Closet’s Creative
Director and Co-Owner. She’s brilliant when
it comes to visual merchandising, so I’m sure
this year’s display will be just as magical as last
year’s, if not better. We’re lucky that The White
Closet sits in a beautiful Victorian building with
fantastically high ceilings, so a tall Christmas tree
has been mentioned for this year. Muted tones
and a nod to the vintage era always works for us.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
Our events diary leading up to Christmas is
pretty full as we’ll be introducing new designers
with launches, shoots and designer days, as
well as a big party to celebrate our third year
anniversary in November! Last year we spoilt our
brides with locally homemade mince pies and
festive drinks, so our brides can look forward to a
similar treat this year.
When are you closed over Christmas, and how
soon do you open again after Christmas Day?
We normally close for two weeks over Christmas.
Having said this, demand for appointments over
this period is high so we may close for just one
week this year – we’ve yet to decide.
What are your New Year’s resolutions?
We have lots – our brides can definitely look
forward to seeing The White Closet move in a
more creative direction, with more collaborations
and shoots. We’re also considering introducing
new opening times to accommodate our brides –
as well as doing fixed ‘Twilight Hour’ events each
month. This was a ‘pop up’ idea we had in the
summer aimed at brides who had already been
in for an appointment, but wanted to come back
for a second try-on at an evening or weekend
appointment to order their chosen dress.
Willow Hearne, Karen
Forte Bridal Design
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
I love the excitement of
Christmas so the boutique
will be decorated for the start of December.
Our customer base usually comprises families
coming together for weddings and to celebrate,
and I feel Christmas is the same: it’s about family,
love and celebrations.
Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
We all participate in the decorations, and usually
put up a tree as our starting point. We often
display a feature item in our Christmas-themed
windows like a big reindeer or something that
will make an impact, as well as plenty of pretty
sparkly things. We use a red and gold colour
scheme for about two weeks and then change to
purple and silver.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
Not this year. We’ve just opened our new men’s
formalwear department and will be focusing on
the new bridal season ahead. The week between
Christmas and New Year is one of our busiest
all year so we don’t want the added stress and
organisation required for extra events.
When are you closed over Christmas, and how
soon do you open again after Christmas Day?
We used to close for a week before Christmas
and re-open the day after Boxing Day but this
year we’re doing things differently. Last year
we decided to use this week freshening up the
boutique, but it ended up taking longer than we
anticipated as deliveries were arriving, the phone
didn’t stop ringing, and lots of customers kept
popping in!
What are your New Year resolutions?
I haven’t thought about them yet! I normally
think of a few the day before New Year’s Day, and
generally I am quite good at sticking to them …
watch this space!
Joanne Cooke,
Curvy Couture Bridal
When will you decorate your
boutique for Christmas?
We’ll put up a real tree in
early December – any earlier
and I think it’d drive us a bit crazy. We are all
‘neat freaks’ and our space has been designed for
maximum efficiency, which doesn’t really lend
itself to the traditional Christmas decorations.
However, there will be a festive atmosphere
which will more than compensate for the
minimal decoration.
Who is in charge of decorating the boutique?
Julie (the artistic one) will be responsible for the
decorations. I’m sure that everything will be coordinated with our existing colour scheme, which
is dark grey and chalk white. A Christmas tree
will be erected in our entrance/porch and any
other decorations will be very subtle and classic
and in keeping with the boutique.
As we’re not located on the high street we
don’t have a shop front or a window display,
however, we are located next to a florist and I’m
sure that we will have festive touches outside of
the boutique.
Are you planning any festive in-store events for
brides this year?
We don’t have any definite in-store events
planned as yet although we are trying to secure
another designer weekend for December. We’ll
be offering mince pies and mulled wine as
refreshments throughout December to all our
brides and their guests.
When are you closed over Christmas, and how
soon do you open again after Christmas Day?
We operate by appointment only and do our best
to accommodate the needs of our brides. At the
moment we have taken bookings up to the 24th
December and from the 28th December.
What are your New Year resolutions?
To continue to provide an unrivalled customer
service experience. We would also like to branch
out and introduce new ranges and develop our
brand further. $
$77,5(
ǸɑɑɄȝǸɜȐ BUYING
Introducing our new trade show columnist – Nikki Graeme,
Director/Owner of The White Closet in Didsbury, Manchester.
Sitting at a computer and frantically tapping
away to meet a deadline was the normal routine
five years ago when I was a reporter working on a
daily paper. Oh, how life has changed.
Several training courses and an 8,000-word
business plan later, and I’m pushing open the
doors to the UK’s largest bridal exhibition with
my buying hat on.
Traditionally, the British Bridal Exhibition
in Harrogate is the single biggest bridal buying
event in the UK, which attracts hundreds of
buyers and suppliers. Its setting in the historic
spa town of Harrogate with all its prettiness
and Betty’s teashop glory is an added bonus and
makes the once-a-year road trip, for us, all the
more worthwhile.
And it’s big decision time for most, not to
mention big bucks to spend – which is why
getting your selection right is key for making your
business ride another wave of prosperity.
The White Closet was borne out of a passion
and love for beautiful designs and great fabrics
that are step away from the ordinary. Thankfully,
our style and collection has struck a chord with
many of our brides.
Don’t get me wrong, we have nothing against
the more classical bridal look, but for our
business to succeed in a competitive market, we
had to stay true to our own vision and style in
order to make our mark.
Three years since our launch and we have a
definite idea of who our ‘White Closet’ bride is
– she loves fashion, craves individuality and often
has a love affair with beautiful fabrics and a true
appreciation of design.
Like all new businesses, we’ve learnt a lot in our
three years of trading – from staffing issues down
to how to apply for small business relief rates to
reduce overheads. But one thing that has stayed
is our spirit and style – a nod to vintage; often,
generic gowns; never.
And it’s with this in mind that we can attend
buying events with a clear image of who our
bride is. This is what helps us decide, ultimately,
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what to buy each year, or which new designer
we should have on board and, sometimes, who
should go.
I’m proud of the close relationships we’ve
forged with our current dress designers and
accessory designers. Building and establishing
good working relations takes time as we all have
our own way of working. We’re thrilled with our
growing labels – we feel they all have their own
place at The White Closet and complement each
other fabulously well – and we hope our brides
feel the same way.
With our Creative Director, Eve Broadhurst,
who has recently, become Co-Owner of The
White Closet and our other team member and
Stylist Sarah Morris – who is also a freelance
trend forecaster – the three of us collected our
comprehensive booklet detailing the show’s
suppliers and began our journey through the
alphabet maze.
This year, for us, focus was on paying a visit to
Lusan Mandongus and its sister label Annasul Y.
The labels’ signature marriage of lace with tulle
conjures up a whimsical and romantic feel that
sits just right in our boutique.
As well as being aware of current and emerging
trends, as buyers it was important for us to
establish which styles had been popular within
our boutique. We had a detailed spreadsheet to
show us which dresses work for us – although
you tend to know off the top of your head
which gowns do better than others, it’s always
interesting to see this in print and helps
when pulling key pieces from collections to
complement an existing line.
For us, straps and high necklines work well –
and looking at designers’ stands at the exhibition,
this was certainly an emerging trend. As for
fabrics, there was of course lace, glorious masses
of it. It’s still very much ‘on trend’.
A visit to the stands of some familiar faces
came later and squeezing in afternoon tea at
Betty’s (it’s tradition for us now!), we walked
away feeling truly satisfied with our selection
and spend.
Bridal buying is the queen of retail therapy –
I’m not sure you can beat it. $
Contact
The White Closet
+44 (0)161 445 4678
www.thewhitecloset.co.uk
New EU
cookie rules
- Part 2 -
In part two of his new series, David Mackley continues to look at cookies, and discusses what
actions you can and should take to move towards compliance, as well as looking at the debate
on analytics cookies.
If you own a website, then you should be aware
of the new Cookie Law introduced on 26th May,
2012. This is part of new regulations intended
to protect people’s privacy and impacts on all
owners of websites that use cookies. The rules have
caused much debate in the on-line community as
businesses try and interpret their meaning. Many
commentators say that the guidance seems to be
intentionally vague and leaves many questions
unanswered. Nevertheless, it is up to the business
owner how they interpret the rules and determine
the appropriate course of action.
Actions to move towards compliance
1. Carry out a cookie audit
At the very least, you should show that you are
aware of the issues the Directive seeks to address
and have begun to take steps to comply. You
should then identify what cookies are being used
– hopefully your website company can help you
work this out. It’s important to recognise that this
is not just ‘first party’ cookies that are set from your
website domain but also any third-party cookies
from social networks, web analytics tools and
advertising networks.
Some of these cookies may only become evident
at key stages in the customer journey (e.g. on a
sales confirmation page), so it is important to
review these in detail by walking through the pages
in question. Remember to include all websites you
are responsible for, for example, a blog that might
be on a different platform, and any campaign
micro sites.
2. Evaluate the privacy impact of each cookie
Once you have identified all the cookies associated
with the site, the next step is to evaluate the
privacy impact of each one. This will be based on
the category of cookie as previously discussed in
part one.
3. Decide how you will inform users of
your website
At the very least, your website/s should provide
users with information about cookies, what they
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“Of all the third party cookies, the one that is causing most
discussion is Google Analytics. If you run Google Analytics on your
website then it has probably installed a tracking cookie.”
are and why they are used, as well as explaining
which cookies are used on your website and what
for. The ICO’s guidance document does provide
some extremely useful examples of how to draw
users’ attention to cookie and privacy policies.
For example:
• Change the wording of the hyperlink, using the
phrase ‘cookie and privacy policy’.
• Moving the link from the footer to a more
prominent position on the page.
• Using a different text colour to make the link
easier to spot.
4. Decide which method you will use for gaining
consent, if required
Where you need user consent, decide which
solution you are going to use. Your website design
company will hopefully be able to help you out
here. The solution you eventually choose will
depend upon your own attitude to the regulations.
Third party cookies and the topic of
Google Analytics
One of the main areas of debate is around third
party cookies. Strictly speaking, the owner of a
website a user visits is deemed legally responsible
Retail technology
for any cookie setting. So, even if the cookie
was placed there by a third party as part of an
agreement with you, it is you that is responsible
for it.
Of all the third party cookies, the one that is
causing most discussion is Google Analytics. If
you run Google Analytics on your website then
it has probably installed a tracking cookie. At
the moment there is a lot of debate about where
Google Analytics cookies sit with the regulations,
and at time of writing there has been no response
to the new regulations from Google.
If Google Analytics is classed as a ‘targeting or
advertising cookie’ then an opt-in is required. In
this case, websites the world over would need an
opt-in facility. It is likely that a largely uneducated
public would opt-out of using the cookie, and this
would mean the website owner would lose a lot of
the data that analytics provides.
The Information Commissioner is aware of
the difficulties of compliance in the complex
multi-jurisdictional world of third party display
advertising, ad networks and agencies, but, to
reiterate, is clear that this complexity is not
a defense for non-compliance. Dave Evans,
Group Manager for Business & Industry at the
Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO), said:
“It’s highly unlikely that organisations will get into
trouble because of one cookie or a few complaints,
but we would seek to address any potential issues
with the company concerned. In these situations
we would be more likely to provide advice to
the organisation. It is highly unlikely – but not
impossible – that we would take action just for
analytics cookies.”
In an interview with The Register,
Communications Minister Ed Vaizey said he
wished that web analytics fell into the so-called
‘strictly necessary category’ in the ICO’s guidelines
on the legislation. “We need to understand that
consent is not black and white. Both the ICO
and I have said on several occasions that there is a
sliding scale of intrusiveness which should inform
the level of effort you go to,” said the minister.
“Obviously something like analytics or featurebased cookies are pretty low on that scale, and I
know that the ICO will take that into account. Of
course, that doesn’t mean that you don’t need to
go to any effort whatsoever, but something which
tracks how many users visit a page is hardly the
priority here.”
The situation is not helped by the fact that some
government websites – including www.ico.gov.uk
– have a Google Analytics opt-in, whereas others
have not, such as www.direct.gov.uk; even though
it uses Google Analytics it relies upon a link at the
bottom of the website that simply says: ‘Privacy
and Cookie Policy.’
The ICO does drop a large hint that it does not
regard analytics cookies as posing a serious risk to
privacy. In the very last paragraph of the 27-page
guidance document, it states: ‘It is highly unlikely
that priority would be given to focusing on uses of
cookies where there is a low level of intrusiveness’
and includes ‘first party cookies used only for
analytical purposes, provided clear information is
given on the site.’
Wording
If you are looking for advice on the words to use on
your cookie information page, the ICC guidelines
include some example wording for you to use. $
Contact
David Mackley MBA BSc is MD of
Intelligent Retail – providers of
Multichannel EPoS and eCommerce
websites for independent retailers.
If you have any questions you can
contact David on
+44 (0)845 680 0126 or
dmackley@intelligentretail.co.uk
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Understanding
your rights
CONTACT
Visit the ACID
website
www.acid.uk.com
Dids McDonald, CEO of Anti-Copying in Design
(ACID), looks at design protection, explains IP strategy
and the differences between a registered and an unregistered design.
If you are at an exhibition and unlucky enough to
discover a copy of one of your products, the most
important thing is to provide evidence of your
claim of design origination, quickly! This enables
a lawyer acting on your behalf to intervene
and negotiate for the offending product to be
removed from the alleged copyist’s stand.
When we (ACID) are present at an ACID
Accredited exhibition or event, we are able to do
something there and then by invoking the ACID
Exhibition Protocol, as happened recently at the
Clarion Home and Gift show in Harrogate. This
step-by-step grass roots mediation process usually
means that legal costs can be cut substantially.
If an exhibitor has a registered design it is
much easier to take legal action because with
a registered design, you don’t have to prove
copying. Being in possession of a registered
design is strong and compelling evidence of
ownership. However, all is not lost if you are
relying on unregistered rights, but it is even
more important to be able to provide a signed
and dated design audit trail to substantiate your
design ownership.
Unregistered v registered?
An unregistered design right arises automatically
in the shape of a functional object and does
not require any formal registration, but has the
following limits:
‹ By contrast a registered design is a formal, state
granted monopoly right, which you have to
pay for.
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‹ For a UK national registration you can apply to
the Intellectual Property Office (UK IPO) or for
an EU design registration you can apply to the
Office for Harmonization in the Internal
Market (OHIM).
‹ If granted, UK and EU registration offers
protection in 27 member states, lasts for up to
25 years and is renewable every five years. Visit
www.ipo.gov.uk and www.oami.europa.eu for
more information.
‹ The overall advantage of registering a design is
that if somebody produces the same object and
uses it in the same design field, then you do not
have to prove that they copied you in order to
stop them.
So how can I demonstrate my unregistered
design rights?
One of the first things that you are required to do
is to prove the creation date of your design and
the date when your design was first made public.
The dates upon which you first marketed the
product and whether a design is new can be
challenged in court at a later date; you must
therefore be able to prove those dates are correct
if you are ever challenged. ACID can provide
this reassurance for Design Databank users and
acts as an independent third party to provide
evidence should you ever need it.
Is the ACID Design Databank an important
resource if I am relying on unregistered design
rights?
It is well known that many designers/creatives
have relied on sending a copy of their designs in
a registered envelope to themselves to ‘copyright
their product’. In reality, all this actually does is
create a post mark on an envelope giving the date
upon which the letter or envelope was sent. The
creation date clearly must have been before that
time so this method is unreliable in support of an
unregistered right.
The ACID Design Databank evidences an
unregistered right with the added advantage
that the date on the document submission was
verified and received by an independent
third party.
If necessary, ACID is able to provide written
statements that the document submission
was received on a particular date if the date is
ever challenged in court. ACID has provided
statements on behalf of some members in the
past and they have been accepted as evidence by
the court; further highlighting the benefits of
using this free service.
It is often very difficult for copyists to create
a compelling audit trail showing how a design
developed from the seed of an idea to the
marketplace; the ACID Design Databank is a
free resource for ACID members to help them
do just this. $
How to use the ACID Design Databank
Niall HeadRapson, Head
of the IP team
at ACID
accredited law
firm McDaniel
& Co,
commented:
“The Design Databank is a free service
provided by ACID but it is not the same
as registering designs with the relevant
authorities (UK IPO/OHIM), nor does it
act as a substitution for design registration
with these governing bodies.
When ACID members submit designs
to the ACID Design Databank, they either
sign a form (for postal/email submissions)
or acknowledge terms & conditions (via
the website submission service), which note
the awareness of the differences between an
official registration and unregistered rights.
Despite members acknowledging this by
signing/digitally accepting the information,
there are clearly still some misconceptions,
which need clarification”.
Blogging for business
Keren Anderson from bridal website specialists, I Do I Do, reveals the many ways
that bridal retailers can benefit from blogging.
A while ago we hit on an idea for a website that would
be an enormous help to many of our bridal shop
customers (it’s due to launch early next year). We knew
that to boost our website ranking in a competitive
wedding arena, we would need to pull all of our search
engine knowledge out of our toolkit. Blogging was at the top of our list, and
so we started blogging on a regular basis – at least once a week. The results
spoke for themselves; a year later, we were getting 20,000 hits a month on
the website, and all we were doing was blogging. From that day on, I’ve
been completely won over to the power of the blogging medium.
I’d like to share with you the search engine power blogging can help you
achieve, how and where to blog, and what you should blog about.
The problem for Google is that amongst all of the genuine businesses are
internet marketers that trick it into ranking their websites well when they’re
full of spam and advertisements. I’m sure you’ve stumbled across those kind
of websites before whilst searching around – they’re generally ugly to look
at and completely useless. Google has worked hard to weed those types of
websites out by changing and updating its algorithm on a frequent basis,
and the one element that has grown increasingly important is content.
The more relevant content you have, the more Google will consider your
website a good candidate for showing early in its search results. And
blogging is the single most powerful way to organically grow your website.
The more you blog, the more content and ‘pages’ you have on your website,
and the more respect you’ll get from the big G.
WHAT MAKES BLOGGING SO POWERFUL?
1. The power of content
Google has a complex job. To remain at the top of its game, Google has to
show useful results every time a user searches on a subject they’re interested
in. To show useful results, Google uses something called an algorithm –
a set of rules that helps it decide how helpful (or not) a website is, and
whether it’s a good candidate to show early on in search results. As the key
to Aladdin’s cave, this algorithm has always been a closely guarded secret.
2. The power of link bait
When you blog – and if you blog well – your website will become worthy of
linking to as it will become a resource for other websites’ readers. Harking
back to my own blog, I now have 60,000 links pointing at it. I’ve done
absolutely no work at all to get those links, apart from blog on a fairly
regular basis. The more links you have pointing at your website, the more
Google thinks you must be a real authority on the subject you specialise in,
which once again means that you’ll be ranked well in search results.
HOW AND WHERE SHOULD I BLOG?
Many people start out by setting up a blog on Blogspot, a free blogging
platform. However, if you make a commitment to blogging, I would
strongly suggest that it’s in your company’s best interests to have a blog set
up on your own domain. As you can see above, blogging adds content to
your website and encourages other websites to link to you. By putting your
blog on a free blogging platform like Blogspot, you aren’t taking advantage
of the huge benefits blogging bestows, and whilst there are some advantages
in having an off-site blogging platform, they’re massively overshadowed by
the on-site benefits.
If you’re considering going down the blogging route, I would recommend
you look at a piece of powerful open source (which means there’s no license
fee) software called Wordpress. The software is so good that we consistently
build our customers’ websites in it, small or large. A good web design
company should be able to add a Wordpress blog to your existing website
domain with relative ease and be able to reskin it to match your existing
site so that your company branding remains the same and you keep your
marketing consistent.
I’VE DECIDED TO START BLOGGING. WHAT DO I NEED TO
THINK ABOUT?
1. Time – do you or does somebody in your company have the time to
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Blogging
Contact
I DO I DO
+44 (0)121 314 6068
www.idoido.co.uk
invest in blogging? Some companies start off with great vim and vigour
only to discover that they simply don’t have the time to commit to writing
regularly, especially if it’s a bit of a chore. The result is a blog that has one
post in it, which in itself becomes a source of stress and reproach. You’re
better off not going down the blogging route at all if that time commitment
can’t be made.
2. Skill – writing is a skill, and if you don’t have the skills under your belt,
it mightn’t be worth attempting blogging. Google considers and punishes
poor spelling (bad spelling is normally a sign of a spam website), so make
sure whoever is tasked with blogging can spell. Blogging will also require a
reasonable level of computer skills.
3. Keep it regular – if you’re keen on the idea of blogging but are concerned
because you can’t commit to blogging daily, don’t worry! Even blogging
monthly will be a help to your rankings. But if you do decide to blog
monthly, do it at a set time every month.
WHAT SHOULD I BLOG ABOUT?
1. Find your voice
The single most important thing to do when you’re blogging is to find
your voice. Pretend you’re in the room with a bride-to-be, and that you’re
actually chatting to her. Write out that conversation. Your personality
will shine through as long as you keep it chatty, rather than being too
formal. If in doubt, read it out. Reading something out loud will help you
comprehend whether it sounds natural or not. Blogging is not a formal
platform, but on the other hand, your blog is still a reflection of your
company, so unless edginess is built into your brand, keep bad language to
a minimum.
2. Switch up your topics
There really are endless topics you could talk about – you just need to look
around for inspiration. You could blog advice on body shapes, jewellery
or the latest wedding fashions. You could blog about marriage and
relationships. You could do a ‘copy her style’ segment on celebrity wedding
dresses. Seek out inspiration from outside the wedding industry – what
articles are fashion editors coming up with? Could you do something in a
similar vein about wedding fashion instead? Whatever you choose to do,
make it specific to your business. If you’re in the wedding industry, always
choose wedding and marriage oriented subjects.
The secret to a successful blog (and thus a really successful website) is
work, commitment, and consistently showing up. Not much different to a
successful business, is it! $
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Time to launch
Nicola Russill-Roy, PR Director of Propose PR, offers new retailers some advice
on marketing their business and building brand awareness.
You may be a former bride, work in the wedding industry or just love
the glitz and glamour of the sparkly bridal world. But launching a bridal
business requires hard work, dedication and, ideally, a committed marketing
campaign.
YOUR FIRST STEPS
New wedding businesses launch every day. Some thrive, some fail. If
you’ve got a good idea and want to go for it, don’t forget to incorporate
marketing into your business plan, as a successful launch is key to building
up momentum in the market.
WHY LAUNCH IN THE FIRST PLACE?
As well as a love for all things wedding, there’s hard economic evidence in
favour of entering the bridal industry. According to the most recent figures
from the Office for National Statistics, more than 277,700 weddings take
place per year and the industry is worth a whopping £10 billion. Even a tiny
slice of that pie is enough to keep your business afloat during these tough
economic times.
First on the agenda – research. What will people buy from you? Is
it a product or service? Is it something new? While an original idea is
undoubtedly useful for a marketing campaign, there has to be a demand for
the service, or a market for the product. You may be an innovator in your
field but an innovation that’s too whacky or adventurous may simply fall by
the wayside.
“According to the most recent figures from the Office
for National Statistics, more than 277,700 weddings
take place per year and the industry is worth a
whopping £10 billion.”
KNOW YOUR COMPETITION
It’s easy to get a lead-in on the competition these days. A little internet
research will help you ascertain who the main players are in your chosen
division of the wedding market. Head to your nearest newsagent and pick
up national and local wedding magazines to not only check out their wares,
but also find out how they are handling their marketing. Are they opting for
traditional marketing such as magazine adverts? Or new digital marketing,
such as an optimised website, Facebook page and Twitter campaign?
The next step is to decide on your product and its price points. Your
target market shouldn’t just be ‘brides’. Are they younger brides, older
brides, or the bridal party? Is your typical customer looking for a glamorous
wedding or something more quirky? Price points will undoubtedly be a key
factor of your product’s success or failure.
OFFER EXCELLENT VALUE
Providing value for money is key for new businesses and this should form
part of your marketing campaign. According to the latest figures from
Hitched WIFE, while the total average wedding spend is just over £16,000,
couples tend to stick to their budget or underspend rather than overspend.
Keep that in mind when deciding your price point. It’s tempting to aim for
the luxe market but, if you have a good product, you can always scale up
and/or launch a luxury division at a later date. This has worked particularly
well for Genuine Cakes in London (www.genuinecakes.co.uk), who
launched its luxury division GC Couture (www.gccouture.co.uk) at The
Luxury Wedding Show London in 2011.
As you have researched local wedding media, you should be fully
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PR & marketing
Contact
Propose PR
Tel: +44 (0)20 3286 5992
Email: Nicola@ProposePR.com
Twitter: @ProposePR
Web: www.proposepr.com
informed on the competition in your area. Can you do what they do, but
better? How accessible are you? If you plan to sell from a shop, are the
surrounding businesses in synergy with your brand? Think about parking
and the practicalities of day-to-day business life.
“You need a fabulous product or service, a solid
business plan, a multi-media marketing campaign –
and you need to follow up that goodwill from your first
customers to get the ball rolling.”
PLAN YOUR LAUNCH
Once all that is decided, it’s time to plan your launch. You need a solid
business foundation before you launch so set aside time to plan your
marketing materials – press releases, website, flyers, catalogues, backdrops
and other promotional materials.
Many businesses choose to officially launch at a wedding fair, but it’s
important to choose the right one. National wedding shows have a high
price point and lots of competition. If it’s a local wedding fair, ask about
footfall and consider a specialist fair, such as a vintage event.
It’s important to opt for quality from day one so hire an official
photographer and perhaps a videographer to capture the event. Invite press
to the launch and send a carefully crafted press release to the news sections
of wedding magazines with a high resolution photo and contact details.
It’s also worth considering a special launch offer to act as a news ‘hook’
and tempt new business. After all, word of mouth from happy customers
will get the marketing ball rolling after the launch and should draw in
numerous new enquiries.
TAKE ACTION
The best piece of advice I can give you is to consider all aspects of a launch
for your best chance of success. You need a fabulous product or service, a
solid business plan, a multi-media marketing campaign – and you need to
follow up that goodwill from your first customers to get the ball rolling.
A ‘call to action’ on marketing material – for example, call +44 (0)1212
121 212 and quote ‘launch01’ to claim your discount – will help you track
your campaign’s success. It takes passion, promotion and preparation to
succeed in this business. $
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online
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Subscribers based outside the UK may receive
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WEB WATCH
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ber of
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:
3700
Attire Bridal is at the very heart of the online
bridal community. Here’s a quick update to
what’s been going on…
SHORT AND TWEET
One of Attire Bridal’s many followers, Abbi Lewis, talks to us about how
Twitter has helped her business
Name: Abbi Lewis
Company Name: Brides of Harrogate
Follow me at: @HarrogateBrides
When did you set up a Twitter account and what
prompted you to do so?
I set up our account about a year ago after I had been told by fellow
business owners it was a great marketing tool and ‘everybody is on there’!
Has your business benefited as a result? If so, how?
I must admit I was a little skeptical at first as to what results we may
achieve from having a Twitter account. As it turns out, our brides love
to follow us, as do many other wedding industry professionals and local
businesses. It’s great when you have wedding venues as followers too.
This month on Twitter we have mainly been:
i Announcing exhibitors already signed up to The Essential
Collection 2013
i Following the latest celebrity weddings
i Welcoming many more followers
i Retweeting all the latest industry news
How often do you tweet and what do you tweet about?
We may tweet three-four times a day if we have a sale coming up, a
forthcoming wedding fair, special promotions in store or some big
news like a new branch opening (recently with our new Abigail’s Bridal
Boutique in Leeds).
What advice would you give to first-time tweeters?
Don’t over do your ‘tweeting’ as people will come bored and
disinterested – do your homework and research the companies you want
to follow you and see if they have a Twitter account. Regularly search for
more companies to follow and re-tweet their interesting tweets which
they will notice and usually reciprocate.
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Which bridal companies do you enjoy following on Twitter?
I enjoy following some of our designers like @CharlotteBalbier who is
interesting to follow and is very supportive on Twitter of her retailers.
I also enjoy following the local newspapers as they will tweet stories as
they happen, and you can become very interesting to your followers if
you know there’s going to be a heatwave/snowstorm or being the first
to know about a celebrity marriage. I followed many of our Yorkshire
Olympic athletes and was able to message them directly with our support
and congratulations – getting replies is a real buzz. $
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@shayharrisbride
@amosposa
@bbc3DTTB
Shay Harris Bridal
Lounge
Plus size bridal brand
TV series, Don’t Tell
The Bride
@GloriousTiaras
@PerfectionRDG
Bridal boutique based
in Reading
Bridal accessories
designer in Cheshire
@aronakhan
Popular gift-wrapping
expert
Bridal boutique
Bridal brand
Bridal accesories
@BlackcatBrides
Black Cat Brides
@Enzoani_AFR
Enzoani AFR
@ElizaCharleston
Eliza & Charleston
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Next issue
Dress Code
Next Issue
Leading Ladies
Cameron Ross
Occasionwear takes centre stage
Special Occasion Shoes
Glamorous heels in this season’s shades
Formalwear
Dress to
Impress
Leading suppliers talk trends
Retailer Report 2012
The prom
sector comes
of age
ATTIRE
Bridal
ISSUE 33
January/February 2013
Available from: 31st December, 2012
Advertising deadline: 7th December, 2012
Rachel Simpson
This year’s results
@ȵɤɕ
Business advice
News and events
Collection focus
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laces, brocades, various embroidered and
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Our range of dress accessories now
exceeds 600 articles including many
brooches and buckles with crystals.
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Sample a World of Bridal Fabric from
Quality Silks, Taffeta’s, Lace
and Satin’s
Occasion Wear, Dress Making, Tailoring
Haberdashery, Ribbon,
Sewing Accessories
Telephone (0115) 926 3154 or Visit
www.millcrofttextiles.co.uk
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Second Year
in Retail
Bridal retailer, Rebecca Doyle, reveals some
exciting changes at her Tunbridge-Wells
boutique, Isabella Grace.
With our first year of retail
tucked firmly under our belt,
we’re excited about what the
second year will bring.
Our one-year anniversary
came and went in a flash.
We sadly didn’t have time to
organise a party to celebrate it, as we have been
working incredibly hard behind the scenes on
another project. However, we did run a week of
birthday promotions in the boutique where our
brides were treated to champagne and cake.
Onwards and upwards
Talking of our behind-the-scenes project, I am
now in a position to be able to reveal all. When
we opened Isabella Grace in September 2011, we
only had one fitting room. Whilst this enabled us
to offer brides the exclusive use of our boutique
during their appointment, the downside of this,
to state the glaringly obvious, was that we could
only accommodate one bride at a time. With sixweek waiting lists within a month of opening, we
had to find a quick way of being able to see more
brides. So in December, 2011, we opened our
second fitting suite. It worked well enough but
was by no means the perfect solution. Space still
became an issue on Saturdays,
with some brides insisting
on bringing vast numbers
of guests with them to their
appointment, even though we
state no more than two-three
guests as a maximum.
Those who know me well,
know I’m a perfectionist
and I wanted the Isabella
Grace experience to be right.
Moving premises wasn’t an
option with four years left
to run on a five-year lease.
And we couldn’t expand
downwards as we already
have our offices on the
lower ground floor. So, upwards was the only
way. As from November, Isabella Grace will be
doubling in size and expanding onto all four
floors of the property. We will be Tunbridge
Wells’ largest bridal boutique. The expansion will
give us three totally private fitting suites for our
brides and her guests to enjoy. We will also have
another showroom in which to display our everexpanding collection of dresses. We shall also
have our own resident seamstress with a private
fitting studio. I simply can’t wait!
The expansion hasn’t been easy as it’s meant
taking on extra staff, re-jigging current rotas, and
a complete re-design of the boutique. Cue much
expenditure, a 50 per cent increase in rent and
many more sleepless nights and grey hairs. But
one mustn’t complain – I keep on telling myself
it will all be worth it in the end!
Speedy buying
Talking of our ever-expanding collection of
dresses brings me onto Harrogate and the British
Bridal Exhibition (BBEH). With four-year old
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twins starting school on the Monday of BBEH, I
had no option but travel to Harrogate and back
in a day on the Sunday. With a 4½ hour train
journey each way I was beyond shattered when I
got home at 1am on the Monday morning. But
I wouldn’t have missed my babies’ first day at big
school for all the money or wedding dresses in
the world.
With such a whistle-stop tour of BBEH,
I did all my research before I got there. I
previewed collections, and booked back-to-back
appointments with each of the designers we carry
in advance. My motto has always been to go with
gut-instinct, and this buying trip was a real test of
this as I had to make some pretty quick decisions.
We returned home with 20 new dresses on order
from our existing designers and I cannot wait to
show these to all of our January brides. Will I be
doing BBEH in a day again? Not if I can help it! $
Contact
Isabella Grace Bridal
www.isabellagracebridal.com