WFN-39-May-2012-by-N..

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 39 may 12
Fragrant People
Perfumers & Co
■ Sophie Labbé (IFF)
"To be a perfumer is a little bit like being a philosopher, to be listening and deciphering what the
other wants. With a lot of intuition and emotion, to tell olfactory stories, to transform the words of
the brief into aromas. And each time the collaboration is different”. Sophie joined IFF in 1992 and
worked closely with Sophie Grosjman. Since then, she has been appointed Vice-President, has
been awarded the Coty Prize (first time for a woman) and has created for many fragrance brands.
Organza by Givenchy was one of her first major successes, followed by many others : Boss Woman,
Emporio Armani Lei, Parisienne YSL, Jasmin Noir by Bulgari, Beauty by Calvin Klein, Cologne 68
by Guerlain, O d’Azur by Lancôme... Her latest launches : Mon Jasmin Noir Eau Exquise by Bulgari
and Signorina by Ferragamo.
■ Domitille Bertier (IFF)
Domitille Bertier has joined IFF in 1994 and is now senior perfumer. After the recent Victor&Rolf’s
Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose, her hot news is the next launch of Jeanne Lanvin Couture that she
composed respecting the sparkling and seductive signature of the first opus, the fruity DNA of the
brand, with raspberry, violet, peony, magnolia, woods (cedar) and musks. Waiting for other
creations coming up soon.
■ Emilie Coppermann (Symrise)
Recently awarded ‘Talent Lalique’ by Les Talents du Luxe et de la Création 2012 for her creative
work, Emilie Coppermann belongs to the recent not to be ignored generation of female perfumers.
Twenty years of passion in the fragrance universe for this young woman who has started, after her
degree at ISIPCA, at Florasynth in 1993. Master perfumers D.Ropion and J.L Sieuzac helped and
trained her to understand the creative process of the métier. Passionate and determined, Emilie
has signed successful fragrances in Paco Rabanne’s Black XS for her and C.Herrera’s CH for men.
Among her major compositions, there are also Brit Sheer by Burberry, L’Eau de Lalique, Play for
her / for him (co-signed with Lucas Sieuzac) by Givenchy, C.Herrera's VIP for Men (co-signed with
Dave Apel).. She is behind the very new 4 Esprit Cologne designed by The Different Company (see
page 4). Other style, other exercise.
■ Happy Birthday Fragrance Resources Paris
Last year, in may, Fragrance Resources France Paris was settling its new office in
Levallois-Perret (France). The occasion for the creative team was to invite people
from the press and a joyous select few, for a special first anniversary, on the 3rd of
may 2012. A little party to awake all senses.
Atelier FR in Levallois-Perret
Chats with perfumers Benoist Lapouza and Delphine Lebeau, olfactory workshops,
focus on raw materials and creations, relaxing massage, gourmand things to smell
and eat ... All was organized in the Atelier FR for a cosy and intimate moment.
■ Cosmo International Fragrances
‘Creativity from the Heart’
Originally based in Fort Lauderdale in the USA, 30 years ago, Cosmo International
Fragrances has expanded its office of production and creation in Europe, in Switzerland
(Nyon, near Geneva) in 2007. This young but experienced fragrance house works with
major brands in fine fragrances, toiletries and home fragrancing and is known for its
flexibility all over the world (and notably in Middle East). Cosmo is present via its offices in
L.A and NYC, or via a new agent in South Korea. The creative team includes 7 perfumers.
Soon, the swiss team will re-open its office after a complete renovation - new cabin tests, a
lab more, and a better capacity of production. In terms of communication, Cosmo’s
corporate website has been revamped (news, newsletter), sustained by a deep claim
‘Creativity from the Heart’ (beause creativity is a matter of heart and each perfumer
sponsors a human organization). To go further : www.cosmo-fragrances.com
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
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Fragrant Objects
Art & Design
■ Marc Touati, AIO Agence de Création
“AIO means expressing and claiming design”
Trained in the prestigious school Ecole Camondo (Les Arts Décoratifs),
Marc Touati founded in 2011 his own company, AIO Agence de Création,
specialized in glass design and creation (fragrances bottles, skin care
packaging, watches). With internal and external resources (sales,
administration…), and a flexible business model, AIO is conceived as new
agency, focused only on creation and customer.
See some of his recent creations below.
A new step in his career, after a large experience in the agency
Aesthete and Mad Open D where he spent 15 years working with
many brands of fragrances and cosmetics (Anna Sui, Lanvin,
Bulgari, Lacoste, Chevignon, Smalto, Guerlain…. ), jewellery and
spirits. Marc also works on illustrations, gifts sets, candles.
For more info and news on his blog : http://aioaio.canalblog.com
and also on linkedIn (‘Le flacon de parfum, retour de l’artisan’)
Bottles Fragrance
Projects
Butterfly
Marcus
Eau 2012
■ Federico Restrepo
“Design is most all of about thinking and seeing the future”
Brand and design consultant, Federico Restrepo was born in Colombia (Bogota) in
1962. He shared his life between Bogota, Spain and France where he begun to
study Logic and Philosophy, beside his passion for painting and designing.
He started first with Joël Desgrippes, founded Raison Pure and then his own
company Atelier Federico Restrepo in 1994. He worked for the biggest brands in the
world and his list of works is so huge that it would be hard to mention them all ! But
let’s cite some brands he worked for : Nuxe, Clarins, Caron, Lanvin, Fath, ST
Dupont, Azzaro, …and some toiletries products for Monoprix, Yves Rocher…
Master Wise Federico
Federico is now based in China where
he lives and works. He recently worked
for Asian projects (a Korean men skin
care RE:NK, Inoherb, Waysherb based
on ginkgo coix seed, but also for
Lancôme Rosebeauty chinese website).
See pictures beside.
In parallel to his expertise in beauty
and luxury sectors (spirits, decoration)
his hobbies are photography, painting
and writing.
RE:NK skin men & Waysherb
For more info and news :
http://restrepodesign.com
Rosebeauty by Lancôme
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
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Fragrant Brands
Sagas
■ Rochas
French fashion designer of the 30’s, Marcel Rochas opened his Maison de Couture in 1925.
Beside his creations in fashion, Audace, Air Jeune and Avenue Matignon were the first three
fragrances launched ... but taken off during the WW2. Hélène, a model, became his wife and
muse inspiring him in his art. He created for her Femme, famous chypre fruity created in 1944
by E.Roudnitska.The bottle was inspired by the sensual actress Mae West and always
considered as a masterpiece. It was followed by Moustache (1948) for men and many others :
Madame Rochas (1955), Eau de Rochas (1970), Tocade (1994), Rochas Man (1999) without
forgetting Globe, Byzance, Lui, ... Rochas’ DNA has never changed, but evolved with perfumer
in house Jean-Michel Duriez. High quality of raw materials, a bit of freshness, a modern
fashion by designer Marco Zanini, Rochas is always a great House.
The pillar Eau de Rochas and its famous bottle (and cap) has evolved, seducing a new and moderner
woman. After Eau Sensuelle (2009) and Eau de Rochas Fraîche (2010), a different story is written with
the new fresh and fruity fragrance Les Cascades de Rochas, Eclat d’Agrumes (embodied by Olivia
Palermo) composed with key ingredients, mandarine and sichuan pepper (with its tiny bergamot notes)...
A delight ! For more info : www.rochas.com
The hot news is also the Rochas’ flying lab designed by
J.M Duriez which contains samples lab of raw materials in
solution, some natural raw materials, blotters, the Rochas
collection, a scale ... A big suitcase, in leather, travelling all
over the world to show the perfumer’s universe.
Copyright
Roméo
Balancourt
This mini lab allows Jean Michel to explain, show his
creative skills each time he meets retailers, media or
consumers...
■ Maison Lubin. Since 1798 (Part 1)
The revival of one of the most important French House of perfumes. The story of Lubin, perfume
makers, begins in 1798, just after the French Revolution. Trained in Grasse and Paris at the end of
the 18th century by masters Tombarelli and Jean-Louis Fargeon (Marie-Antoinette’s own perfumer),
Pierre-François Lubin founded his brand, making perfumes, scented ribbons, masks and rice
powders for the elegant women. Very quickly, he got the favor of the Imperial Court and became the
official fragrance supplier of many European royal courts. His first Eau Vivifiante, created in 1798,
(later Eau de Lubin), has been a huge success and is always a reference in olfactory classifications.
Lubin was such a modern perfumer of transition, between the old corporatist
monarchy and the 20th century of fragrance designers. In 1900, always at the
cutting-edge, his factory was the most active with Guerlain. Great creations
came with Nuit de Longchamp (1937), followed up by Gin Fizz (1955), Eau
Neuve (1968) and L de Lubin (1975). They knew fame all over the world
through notably the USA where very early Lubin’s heirs, Prot, opened their first
subsidiary in 1830 and exported.
Lucien Ferrero and Thomas
Fontaine stand behind the new
and revived old perfume
formulas by Lubin. Lucien had
created Le Vetiver (2007) and
Itasca (2010), Thomas Fontaine
worked on new fragrances Bluff
(2009), Inédite (2009) Figaro
(2010) and Black Jade (2011).
Nuit de Longchamp & Gin Fizz
Later, Lubin crossed over difficult times until that Gilles Thevenin, a passionate
entrepreneur and fragrance developer who emigrated from Guerlain, and his
investors, saved the brand from disappearance. In 2005, a new start came with a
new fragrance called Idole and composed by Olivia Giacobetti, followed by other
creations. Perfumers Thomas Fontaine (Pallida) and Lucien Ferrero (Expressions
Parfumées) accompany Gilles Thevenin to keep the spirit of Lubin with high
quality of ingredients and a necessary twist of modernity.
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Fragrant Launches
Seduction
Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 39 may 12
■ Aedes de Venustas by Aedes de Venustas
Opulent, baroque, yet refined New York based perfume boutique Aedes de Venustas launches its
own eau de parfum Signature. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour (a very prolific niche perfumer who
works for special clients), the scent reflects the special ambiance of the store’s interior (red, aubergine
and purple colors). The chypre construction is round, voluptuous and based on 2 key ingredients : a
fresh ephemeral green rhubarb accord embodied by azelnut and vetyver. A purple bottle topped
by a golden cap gives the final touch of luxury. Aedes de Venustas is available at Barney’s, Liberty’s
and Jovoy’s Paris. For more info : http://www.beautyentreprise.com, in charge of the brand and
distribution and www.aedes-parfums.com
■ Collections : Esprit Cologne and Excessive by The Different Company
A new range of over concentrated Cologne sprays. A real luxury item, carved in thick glass and
refillable. Emilie Coppermann signed them all : Tokyo Bloom, a fresh green accord around
dandelion-basil and musk ; Sienne d’Orange, a carrot-orange mix ; Limon de Cordoza, a white
neroli-citrusy scent ; After Midnight is oriental, with benzoin and jasmin. Beside this new range,
Collection Excessive, an ultra confidential and luxury olfactory story imagined by Bertrand
Duchaufour is being launched. The line is based on oudwood : Oud Shamash and Oud for Love,
both inviting us to explore the abysses of animalic scents.
For more info : europe.thedifferentcompany.com
■ Bois de Turquie by Maître Parfumeur & Gantier
A re-launch of Bois de Turquie created in 2008. Imagined by owner J.P Millet-Lage, Bois de Turquie
reflects the atmosphere of the first arrival in the Bosphorus strait. A bridge between Occident and
Orient, the fragrance fresh and then woody and aromatic, is built on noble laurel, myrrh, incence and
sandalwood. For more info : www.maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier.com
■ Peoneve by Penhaligon’s (since 1870)
Here is the new opus launched by famous English brand, Penhaligon’s. Peoneve created by Maître
Parfumeur Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) is composed like a lush English garden in summertime, around
a fresh bouquet of natural* and pure peony, violet and rose lying on a musky, vetyver drydown.
Sparkling, powerful and radiant. Launch in France in September. *obtained by NaturePrint™
(headspace). For more info : www.penhaligons.com
■ Le Pamplemousse by Miller Harris
The trees of the Palmeraie in Marrakech have inspired Lynn Harris for a new limited edition Le
Pamplemousse. In the heat of Morroco, an eau de parfum composed with raw materials coming
from its lands : orange blossom, cedar combined to grapefruit with a hint of fresh sparkling
rhubarb and aromats. For more info : www.millerharris.com
■ Maison Lubin. Since 1798 (continuation of page 3)
Today, after 10 years of intense international implantation, Lubin renews with its
strong worldwide presence via its subsidiaries (Lubin Northam, Lubin GmbH).
It’s also available in exclusive points of sale (Aedes de Venustas in NY, …) and
department stores (Le Printemps Paris, Henri Bendel NYC, Gump’s San Francisco,
Harrods London …) and in countries where the niche brands are not present. Lubin
has also recently opened its own Parisian boutique in the Saint-Germain quarter.
For more info : www.lubin-parfum.fr
Idole, a woody spicy oriental structure as
a tribute to the African Masai’s culture
L’Eau Neuve, a fresh floral citrus, in the
spirit of 1968
■ Selection of upcoming fragrances
Blanc de Courrèges by Courrèges, L’Eau à la Folie by Nicolaï, Séville à l’Aube by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Ambre Doré by Maître
Parfumeur & Gantier, Fendi Uomo by Fendi, Lumière Blanche by Olfactive Studio, Eau de Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills,
Plum Blossom (L.Edition) by Jo Malone, Grand Bal by Dior Collection Privée, Les Déserts d’Orient by Guerlain + Trios : Play
Collection by Comme des Garçons, Replica Collection by Maison Martin Margiela, Eau Universelle, Eau Captivante, Eau
Ravissante by L’Occitane en Provence...
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