WFN_40_Sept_2012-27

Fragrant People
Perfumers & Co
Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 40 sept 12
■ Jérôme Epinette (Robertet USA)
Jérôme Epinette, senior perfumer, began his career in Robertet’s Paris office in 2003 and joined the
U.S. team to launch the New York Creative Center in 2006. Jérôme earned a master’s degree in
biochemistry in Dijon, France and attended the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in Grasse. Had he not
become a perfumer, Jérôme would have become a … sommelier. His admiration for winemaking is
influenced by his hometown of Burgundy, and he loves to attend wine tastings and compare the
different notes in wine, just like in perfumery. He created for L'Occitane en Provence, P&G, Fresh,
Benefit, Gant, Avon, Victoria's Secret, all Byredo fragrances (Green, Pulp, Palermo, M/Mink, new
Bullion and Black Saffron…) and many Atelier Cologne, among them the latest Rose Anonyme and
Vétiver Fatal (See page 4) to be launched in october.
Jérôme Epinette
■ Jean-Christophe Hérault (IFF)
Remember his name. Hérault rhymes with hero and... risotto ! The one he likes to cook with shells for
his friends. As fond of good food, Jean-Christophe is fond of ingredients of perfumery he learnt in
Grasse with master Pierre Bourdon : Cypriol, aldehyds, hedione, balsamic notes. WFN met JeanChristophe with ‘Oneiros’, an original fragrance he created (a chypre oriental) inspired by student
Anna Belyavina-Normand’s first fashion collection, introduced at Mode & Sens (event organized by
ENSAD, Ecole des Arts Déco in Paris, with IFF). Jean-Christophe has recently composed YSL’s Vapeurs
d’Opium and new Amazingreen by Comme des Garçons... And in duo with Dominique Ropion
Chopard’s Enchanted, or with Olivier Polge new Balenciaga’s Florabotanica. A talented perfumer to
follow up!
Jean-Christophe
Hérault
■ Lucas Sieuzac & Alexis Dadier (Symrise)
Two young guys to highlight!
Lucas : "a fragrance is truly an invitation to the voyage". Lucas is the third generation of a family of
perfumers. He has decided to become a perfumer only at the age of 18, when he realized the best
accomplishment one could have in life is to create beauty through senses. He joined Florasynth in
1994, then Créations Aromatiques, now Symrise in 1998. He created fragrances for Amouage,
Burberry, Givenchy (many Play), 212 VIP Men by Carolina Herrera , Chopard, Jil Sander in solo or duo.
Lucas Sieuzac
Alexis : "Keep your eyes and your nose open to the world around you".
Alexis discovered the fine fragrance world when he was product manager at Dior, just after being
graduated of the prestigious French business school HEC. Shortly after, destiny has found Alexis
enrolled in the Mane Perfumery School in Grasse. He joined Symrise in 2010 and was appointed
senior perfumer in 2012. The fragrance he would like to capture in a perfume ? The smell of spring !
Among his creations, note Esteban, L’Occitane en Provence, Lilabelle Truly by Kate Moss and
Mugler’s fragrances in solo or duo.
Alexis Dadier
■ Happy Birthday Expressions Parfumées 1982-2012 !
1982-2012, thirty years of Expressions Parfumées, Jacques Lions (President) can be proud of his
achievement. This entrepreneur from Grasse was audacious enough to start alone in his garage…
Thirty years later, EP realizes a €42 million turnover in continuous progress and among which 50%
are realized abroad. However the company stays faithful to its values : human relationship, tailormade service, speed and innovation. This is how, for example, EP was the first to propose a full
collection of natural and “organic” perfumes, the NATCO collection.
Perfumers’company, founded by perfumers, EP has a creative team including more than 10
perfumers (Henri Bergia, Philippe Collet, Franck Lions, Vincent Ricord, Christian Trémolière, Eric
Fracapane, Alain Allione, Claire Chambert, Stéphane Coez) who express their talent through
different styles, in fine fragrances as well as in functional ones… but always in close relationship with
the customer. Among their latest creations : Seductive Elixirs, the new range by i Coloniali
(Perfume Holding), L'Eau d'Ikar by Sisley, Verveine Sorbet and Bonne Mère "Milk & Honey range"
by L'Occitane en Provence, Souffle des Indes by Comptoir Sud Pacifique.
For more info : www.expressions-parfumees.com
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 40 sept 12
Fragrant Brands
Sagas and Creativity
■ Guerlain, 100 years of L’Heure Bleue, 1912-2012
L’Heure Bleue, the uncertain hour. The house celebrates this fall one of its masterpieces.
L’Heure Bleue has been created at the Belle Epoque, in 1912 by Jacques Guerlain.
A special and artistic tribute has been imagined. The original bottle called Quadrilobé created
in 1908 inspired by Art Nouveau, has been edited in a superb and unique giant magnetic blue
bottle (490-ml, in limited edition) necked by violets made of cristalline golden glass paste,
designed by both Baccarat (glassmaker) and Gripoix (violets).
L’Heure Bleue is a unique flamboyant floriental and sensual fragrance,
recognizable by its famous topnotes of aldehydes (for the first time),
neroli, carnation, violet, tuberose, bulgarian rose, orange blossom and
fresh aniseed, enveloped in a powdery whisper of musk, vanilla, benzoin
and tonka beans (the Guerlinade signature). A powerful and timeless
scent, often worn by beautiful blond women in love for this fragrance. A
legendary signature.
Quadrilobé
Without betraying its soul, in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser has
brought a modern light and gourmand interpretation, by exalting
white musks and heliotrop. The fragrance will be available in three
concentrations ‘L’Aurore’, ‘Le Zénith’ and ‘Le Crépuscule’ for a more
intense powdery sillage, sheated in a blue velvet bottle worked by the
embroiderer French Atelier Lesage.
1935
Elise D’Arcy’s Poster
■ Courrèges comes back
As expected, French fashion brand Courrèges is coming back this fall in perfumeries.
The mythic fashion brand of the 60’s known for its futurist design was reborn. The brand acquired by
duet Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Tortoling (from advertising sector) has been entrusted with Lorience
(Mauboussin, LuluCastagnette). A trio of fragrances is to come : a new one, called Blanc de Courrèges
created by Julie Massé (Mane), with iris and patchouli, and older famous chypre fragrances such as
Empreinte (chypre leather created in 1971) and Eau de Courrèges (citrus chypre)... Patchouli has always
been the olfactory signature of the brand. For this re-launch, a corner at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann
has been settled up to re-install the brand on the market, with a special exclusivity, Rose de Courrèges.
For more info and e-shop : www.courreges.com
■ Selection of being launched / upcoming fragrances
Mad Madame by Juliette Has a Gun
Jardin Noir by Tom Ford
Collection de Haute Parfumerie by Terry de Gunzburg
Rouge assassin & Les jeux sont faits by Jovoy Paris (7)
Les Parfums de Cuir by T. Mugler
[1]
[2]
[3]
Aurore Nomade by The Different Company (1)
George by Jardins d’Ecrivains (2)
Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire (3)
Musc Intense by Nicolaï
Blackberry and Bay by Jo Malone
Collection Jul et Mad (4)
Ann Gérard Parfum Parure Secrète (5)
Absolue Damona by Jardin de France
Pink & Gold by Undergreen (6)
[5]
[7]
[4]
[6]
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Fragrant Launches
Dark & Fatal Seduction
Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 40 sept 12
■ Rose Anonyme + Vetiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne
The brand grows up and adds a new duo of Cologne Absolues composed by
talented Jérôme Epinette (Robertet). Available in sprays, soaps and candles as
usual. Its launching is scheduled in October. For Rose Anonyme, Jérôme has played
with ingredients to create a fresh, woody, spicy rose with a musky undertone. Very
original. Key notes are bergamot, ginger, essence of Turkish Rose, incense, oud
accord, patchouli, papyrus, benzoin. Vetiver Fatal is a free exercise around vetiver, a
mix of violet leaves, fig, oud and haitian vetyver with a hazel sensation.
For more info : http://www.ateliercologne.com/store
■ Fame by Lady Gaga (Coty Prestige)
From the darkness, the light. The forbidden fruit.
Anti conventional, the iconic music singer Lady Gaga is launching her first fragrance
in partnership with Coty and Haus Laboratories (see more on
www.hauslaboratories.com), named like her first album, Fame. As provocative and
fatal as her character, Lady Gaga has challenged all creative teams in her project –
perfumers, glass makers, advertising... The result: an opulent but wearable
fragrance enclosed in a black round bottle topped by golden monster claws
designed with the collaboration of Nick Knight. To express darkness, sensuality and
lightness, the juice is the first ever black eau de parfum which becomes invisible
once sprayed.
Unique, innovative in terms of technology, the formula includes fruity belladone, orchid and jasmine, apricot, saffron,
honey and incense... composed by Richard Herpin, Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc (Firmenich). Available in
exclusivity at Sephora in September. See the adv.film on Youtube.
■ Mark Buxton Perfumes
A free man.
Born in England, talented cook, fine gourmet and rock’n’roll, Mark Buxton is above all a renowned
perfumer who has been creating perfumes since 25 years for Givenchy, Versace, Van Cleef & Arpels,
Paco Rabanne, Burberry, Cartier, Chopard,... Comme des Garçons, when he was at Symrise, Haarmann
& Reimer, Créations Aromatiques. Mark Buxton founded his own brand introducing a collection of
décalé fragrances (Black Angel, Sexual Healing, Wood and Absinth, Sleeping with Ghost, Devil in
Disguise) being launched this year. A brand where he can express and share his audacity with short
formulas, pure and noble materials combined with an aesthetic and contrasted, but simple and
beautiful handwriting. Mark proposes also bespoke fragrances and is partner in Perfarium, a company
specialized in full service creation. For more info : www.markbuxton.com / www.perfarium.com
■ Florabotanica by Balenciaga (Coty Prestige)
Balenciaga is between classicism and experimentation,
combining fantastical and ultra contemporary.
Nicolas Ghesquière, Balenciaga’s artistic designer, signs a new experimental fragrance as enigmatic as
its name and design: Florabotanica. Imagine a fanciful garden full of magnetic flowers (neither
innocent nor poisonous). Its muse is the rebel but pure young actress Kristen Stewart seen notably in
the movie Twilight. The olfactory partition has been given to 2 alchimists Olivier Polge and Jean
Christophe Hérault (IFF) (see page 1) composing with an imaginary Rose, Mint, Carnation, Vetiver,
Amber and Caladium Leaves for a mossy mysterious powerful floral scent. Available this month.
■ In the Garden of Good and Evil by Kilian
Another Garden. A new trilogy about the myth of the original sin.
After the black first collection ‘’L’Œuvre au Noir’’, Kilian explores our undisclosed desires and sins
where temptation, danger are whispered softly, introducing 3 new fragrances in white and golden
bottles. Three fragrances to succumb : In the City of Sin, Forbidden Games composed by Calice Becker
(Givaudan) and Good Girl Gone Bad (composed by Alberto Morillas, a floral fruity). Forbidden nectars.
Available in November.
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Fragrant Events
Design, Marketers & Boutique...
Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
wfn # 40 sept 12
■ Design > Johnsson Design
The thinking hand
After her studies at Corvisart and Beaux Arts Schools in Paris, Catherine Johnsson has begun her career in
design at Studio Chanel (with Ungaro and Bourjois brands at that time) working closely with master Artistic
Director Jacques Helleu. She worked on graphics, labels, embossing, edition... (Coco Chanel).
Then, she joined for a while the prestigious agency of advertising Euro-RSCG, working on Paco
Rabanne and Swarovski projects. She founded her own agency in 2001 and offers volume works,
bottle design, packaging and gifts working for many brands such as Bourjois, Chanel, Ungaro, YSL,
Bulgari, Vichy, Innéov, Garnier, Dessange, Evian, Decléor...
For more info : design@catherinejohnsson.com
■ e-Marketing > [MAP]
Prefered brands are those you feel close to
Former marketing manager at L'Oréal Produits de Luxe and LVMH in several countries, Philippe
Guguen has founded [MAP] 6 years ago: an agency specialised in the conception of e-learning,
animation of clients networks, points of sales, creation of promotional training, tracking. The goal of
[MAP] is to create proximity between brand and its consumers, retailers and key actors. From
marketing to communication in perfumery, Philippe Guguen likes to share his passion with students in
Master or MBA in Paris and Marseille. For more info : www.agence-map.com
■ Strategic Marketing & Market Research > AXIAN PARTNERS
Both specialist of Asia & market research (FMCG, Fragrance / cosmetics, food, luxury & retail
industries), Pascale Elmalan used to work in agency & client side (France, Asia, USA). She is now
managing Axian Partners, which offers customized market research & marketing solutions
throughout the marketing development process to help clients to imagine, develop, test &
implement strategies, products or services worldwide. An expert for each project, from
inception to completion, for a real added value in terms of analysis: Try customized solution
instead of standardized methodologies and gain new insights with cross cultural & research
expertise of international senior consultants. For more info : www.axianpartners.com
■ Consumer Test > ROSAE
ROSAE, the specialist of fragrance consumer analysis worldwide conducts its research on a regular basis. Its
methodology is based on quantitative, analogic and spontaneous qualitative answers. Over the last year, on feminine
fragrance testing, it appeared that the quantitative performance of a juice was closely linked to the presence in the
qualitative spontaneous answers of 5 key words. Olivier Aron, CEO and founder of ROSAE, reveals the details of their
findings... For more info : www.rosae.net
■ Boutique in Paris > Nose
Nose (20 rue Bachaumont, 75002, Paris) is a new beauty concept store entirely dedicated to niche brands
and based on one original idea: to establish your olfactory diagnostic based on the fragrance you
have worn in the past, and ultimately to find the right fragrance. Co-created by a group of
professionals, among them Silvio Levi (founder of Italian Esxence Exhibition), Romano Ricci
(Juliette has a Gun) and Mark Buxton, Nose proposes a selection of 50 fragrances and cosmetics
brands (Creed, Diptyque, By Kilian, Atelier Cologne, Frapin, Acqua di Parma, Penhaligon’s, L’Artisan
Parfumeur, Odin, Cowshed, Ren, Codage...). Administrated through Ipads in the boutique, the
diagnostic tool is also available online (www.nose.fr) which also proposes a service of samples
shipping.
■ Fragrant Web > Parole d’Odeurs & Parfumessence
Béatrice Boisserie (journalist and writer) launched Parole d’Odeurs : few years ago, she co-wrote a book about perfume
and perfumers ‘Plaisirs de Parfums’ in collaboration with editor Coco Tassel. Passionate, talented, she offers us her new
blog, a free territory of expression about fragrances (descriptions, selection of perfumes, reporting and news)
http://paroles-dodeurs.overblog.com
Parfumessence is a smart and nice French website about fragrances, well-ordered by brands, perfumers and olfactory
families. An excellent tool for professionals and public. For more info : www.parfumessence.fr
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