Diapositive 1 - Esprit de Parfum

[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Formation, Marketing & Développement Parfum
Créatrice de "Web Fragrant Newsletter"
nathaliepichard@orange.fr
Nathalie Pichard
[
toPNotes
may 13]
wfn # 44
Perfumers
Olivier Cresp
Violaine Collas
Patricia Choux
Flair Studio
Sagas Haute Couture
Carven
Balmain
Fragrant Events
« The Future of Fragrances Licenses » by P.Benacin & S. Lacroix
Brazil Trends
Fragrances Launches
Osmanthus Blossom, Jo Malone
Alameda, Robert Piguet
Songe d’Iris, Les Cascades de Rochas
Marco Serussi
Olfactive Studio
Fragrance Republ!c
*Huge thanks to friends and Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business)
for rereading and corrections
WFN is free, independent and co-signed by people who are mentioned
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
Fragrant People
Perfumers
[
wfn # 44 may 13]
■ Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) Homage !
No need to introduce this passionate, talented and famous perfumer-creator, born in
Cannes and renowned for his many perfumes. But Olivier Cresp’s activity is very hot this
year. Many of his compositions show his creative audacity in playing with raw materials
(patchouli, jasmine and gardenia among his favorite ingredients). His style is always
Olivier Cresp
‘modern’.
Angel’s (and Light Blue) father has always many olfactory recipes in his hat. Olivier recently signed a deep woody Flash
Back for Celine Verleure’s Olfactive studio, Nina l’Eau by Nina Ricci, the new l’Eau de Parfum Sublime by Carolina Herrera,
cosigned the new feminine Boucheron with Nathalie Lorson and the very interesting fresh aromatic aquatic Cerruti 1881
Acqua Forte for men. These launches highlight his art of combining modern addictive components with the more classic
ones. Olivier is a gentle fragranceman as well who likes Beaudelaire, wine, order and Shalimar. A real epicurean.
■ Violaine Collas (Mane)
Penetrating blue eyes, a 30’s look, here is Violaine, a parisian perfumer. She joined Mane’s fine
fragrance team in 2011. ISIPCA and Symrise where she’s been trained and worked beside great
perfumers (Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel) have allowed her to develop a double expertise
in fine fragrance and beauty care. Violaine’s creations are very different, she likes to work on
contrasted ingredients: Cerisier aux Papillons by L’Occitane, Mauboussin pour lui, S by Shakira
Aquamarine, Hypnôse Homme Cologne (co-signed with M. Roucel).
Violaine Collas
Her hot news in niche brands are Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Voyages en Orient (Jasmin Poudré & Epices Sultanes),
23 Janvier 1984 by Pozzo di Borgo and Dangerous Complicity by Etat Libre d’Orange. Violaine likes Dali’s paintings,
rock and baroque arts which all inspire her.
■ Patricia Choux (Takasago USA)
Patricia Choux’s roots are in French Burgundy. After visiting Fragronard’s alambics, she decided, at
the age of 10, to become a perfumer.Then after the school ISIPCA in 1993, Patricia began her 20
year perfumery career at Florasynth, then moved to Creations Aromatiques, Haarmann & Reimer,
Symrise & finally joined Takasago in 2009. Before settling in New York City seven years ago, Patricia
lived & worked in France, Germany & England. Her main creations are Baby Phat Seductive
Goddess, Bath & Body Works PS I Love You , Bebe Wishes & Dreams, Bebe Nouveau….
Patricia Choux
Celine Dion Chic, Perfume X for Women & 1872 for Men by Clive Christian, Marc Jacobs Orange Splash (co-created
with Maurice Roucel), Michael Kors Very Pretty, Jo Malone Blue Agava & Cocoa, Laura Mercier Marrons Glacés.
Patricia also loves traveling, painting, drawing & running marathons that take her all over the world & across new
flowers & flavors.
■ Flair, Creative studio
In English, to have flair is to have a talent for art, elegance and style. And to have ability. In French,
flair is the nose, the sense of smelling things also. Amélie Bourgeois and Martine Denisot have had
flair in creating a fragrance house and bespoke creations. The duo has been joined by another
perfumer, Anne-Sophie Behaghel. Amélie and Anne-Sophie both worked before at Cinquième Sens
where they were perfumers and business developers for years.
Their ‘studio de creation’ is located in Paris and offers two services: classic
fragrance creation – recent launches include confidential brands such as
Rouge Assassin by Jovoy, next Frapin, and the 3 Mendittorosa fragrances
(Italian new brand).
And if you want your own perfume (parfum sur-mesure), it’s up to you, make
an appointment and let yourself be guided. Ingredients come from the major
fragrances laboratories (Mane, IFF, Firmenich or Elixens) and perfumes are
manufactured by Sentaromatique. A guarantee of quality and seriousness.
For more info: www.flair-paris.fr
Mendittorosa
Gli Odori
Amélie Bourgeois
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
Fragrant Events
Sfp Conference & Brazil Trends
[
wfn # 44 may 13]
■ May 16, Conference SFP – The future of fragrances licenses
Philippe Bénacin (Interparfums) & Stéphane Lacroix (S.Lacroix Licensing)
Jimmy Choo, Giorgio Armani, Elie Saab, Chloé, Mauboussin, S.J Parker, D&G... What have
all those prestige brands in common? Among other things, a fragrance licensing
agreement ! What are the conditions, restrictions and conditions of fragrances licenses?
What future?
A fragrance licensing agreement is strategic for a brand. As Stéphane Lacroix explains,
the deal consists for a fashion (or luxury) brand in signing a deal with a company, expert
in fragrances and cosmetics manufacturing. Several codes have to be respected by the
licensee (conception, production, payment of royalties in function of the turnover
generated...). In general, the brand needs to have a real international implantation, to be
renowned with a strong will of extension.
Stéphane Lacroix, Philippe Bénacin
and Patrick St-Yves (SFP)
Philippe Bénacin adds: the deal is not without risk and problems may occur sometimes (flop of the
launch, misconduct of the creator, changes of strategy...). All is a question of expertise and trust. The
recent break of Burberry-Interparfums shows how difficult it is to live for 20 years by creating
fragrances and make up... Strategies evolve. Interparfums has recently acquired KL + Repetto. New
launches are expected this year and the next ones. The licensee has a key role in making the fashion
brands alive. Sometimes it performs well (Jimmy Choo, Montblanc, Boucheron, ST Dupont, ...),
sometimes it is really harder on markets (Paul Smith, VCA..) But when some brands are reborn, such as
Balmain or Lanvin with modern twists and trendy fragrances, the deal pays off.
Launch of Sou,
Natura’s sub brand
■ Brazil Trends
Brazil here, Brazil there.
A magic word for the fragrance and cosmetics business. Exhibitions, studies, surveys... Every
fragrance professional or company is looking to Brazil and its possibilities. Indeed, the
market forecasts it will be the biggest of the Bric’s markets by 2016. Brazil is not a country.
So complex, it is more like a continent with many cultures. The market is dominated by
mass market products. Prestige brands are imported and taxes are very high.
Our experts Claudio Calvacanti (Orlandi’s GM Sao Paulo) and Renata Ashcar (perfume
specialist and curator of the Brazilian Museum of Perfume) explain: only 6% of sales in
prestige fragrances belong to imported brands. More than 90% of the market is from
national brands such as kings Natura Cosmeticos or Avon, direct selling specialists
...without forgetting Ó Boticario and its franchised 3.550 stores.
Olfactory trends: in general, feminine fragrances are very sophisticated: floral
combinations with woody and creamy notes, combined to sensual, oriental notes
(powdery and vanilla) and other gustative ingredients such like chocolate and coffee,
among others. Interesting character of mono-notes: more intense or more fresh floral
depending on the flower highlighted in the perfume. This trend has been coming for two
years and it will not change, because of the traditional consumption in Brazil. In the
masculine segment, fougere is still dominating, but woody notes with a touch of amber
and sweet nuances (without losing the masculinity) are seen in the latest launches.
Top feminine and masculine premium sellers in 2011 (NPD) with Puig as leader:
Women: J’Adore, Carolina Herrera , Flowerbykenzo, Hypnôse, Euphoria, Dolce &
Gabbana’s Pour Femme, Lady Million, L’Eau d’Issey, Ange ou Demon, 212 Sexy
Men: Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Ralph Lauren’s Polo and 212 Men CH
Malbec
Desodorante
Colonia
Ó Boticario
Mandacaru
Line
L’Occitane
au Brésil
Bem
Estar.
Estar bem.
Natura
L’eau de
Rio
Phebo
For more info:
www.cosmeticosbr.com.br
www.renataashcar.com.br
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
Fragrant Brands
Sagas of haute couture houses
[
wfn # 44 may 13]
■ Carven (Groupe Jacques Bogart)
Miss Carven... La Maison Carven. The famous green and white stripe. We
often forget the brand’s DNA with new marketing mania of erasing the
first names of their creators... Let’s restore its history.
Founded in the early 50’s, by Miss Carmen de Tommaso, the Couture
house quickly seduces the actress Michèle Morgan, a star of the moment
and imposes a new feminine style. The Maison lived its life until... Miss
Carven retired.
Then, Carven was quite abandoned and became a ‘has been’. Without the faith of
entrepreneur Henri Sebaoun who acquired the brand in 2008, Carven would have
completely disappeared. Sebaoun invested and sought out a young talented designer of
the new generation: Guillaume Henry (ex Givenchy). In 2013, Carven will be available in
450 outlets (in Asia also) and double digit growth is being achieved. Wild licenses have
been stopped. The challenge of rebirth has succeeded.
Guillaume Henry
In terms of fragrances, the first fragrance created by Miss Carven was Ma Griffe
(1946), a fruity animalic chypre, followed by Vétiver Carven (1957) for men,
which was to become a classic in the family of woods, the vétiver.
The Group Jacques Bogart (owner of the brand) aims to give a new start to the
Carven Perfumery, based on two complementary axes: launching a new female
fragrance in adequacy with Carven todays brand values: Carven le Parfum, and
in the meantime modernise the look of the brand classic, Ma Griffe which
formula
is
identical
to
the
original
one.
Carven le Parfum is a fresh, floral, fruity and green fragrance which has been
composed by Francis Kurkdjian (Takasago).
For more info: www.carven.fr and www.carven-parfums.com
■ Balmain (Interparfums)
After his first paths at Lucien Lelong and Molyneux, French fashion
designer Pierre Balmain founded his Maison de Couture at the end
of the WW2.
His style is immediately recognized by his famous friend, dreaded
fashion critic of that time, Gertrud Stein who described him as the
‘new French style’.
His style suits the sparkling, fresh and elegant women. The ‘Jolie
Madame’ style is born.
Pierre Balmain
Beside collections, fragrances are launched. Remember how
innovative Vent Vert, Monsieur Balmain, Jolie Madame and Ivoire
were when created.
Olivier Rousteing
Balmain fragrances are Interparfums’ license. They have been revamped for a more modern twist
and target new young consumers. Ivoire (which was a floriental) has been re-twisted by Michel
Almairac and Jacques Flori (Robertet). The new version is a floral fruity woody, and Eau d’Ivoire
is relaunched for summer (floral fruity chypre) composed by Sophie Labbé. Today, Olivier
Rousteing (ex R. Cavalli’s Artistic Director) is the French young designer behind women and men
Balmain collections.
For more info: www.interparfums.fr and www.balmain.com
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Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
Fragrant Launches
Selection
[
wfn # 44 may 13]
■ Osmanthus Blossom by Jo Malone
Fresh, sparkling and fruity, here is Osmanthus Blossom by Jo Malone, in limited edition.
The flower which blooms in China and Japan has a delicate scent of complex notes, recalling
apricot, hay, liquor mixed with animalic facets. The first fragrance to use it was 1000 by Jean Patou.
Osmanthus Blossom was composed by Marie Salamagne (Firmenich) and features a fresh and
transparent floral accord combined with peach and exotic notes, sustained by aromatic and woody
cashmere notes. As the brand recommends, you can ‘combine’ this fragrance with another one of the collection and
make your own signature. Try Nectarine Blossom or Blackberry and bay.
■ Alameda by Robert Piguet
Another Piguet’s fragrance in the collection. Aurélien Guichard (Givaudan) is the nose behind all
the collection (modern and past). A rebirth began few years ago when the brand was purchased by
a USA based company. Alameda evokes the scent of Spain, of the Alhambra gardens with a touch of
chypre oriental and extravaganza. Amber, rose, patchouli and an animalic base. Alameda joins Visa,
Fracas, Petit Fracas, Oud, Blossom... For more info (read wfn 43)
■ Songe d’Iris, Les Cascades de Rochas by Rochas
Awakening senses, emotions. Les Cascades de Rochas keep on spraying their fresh air this spring. A
second fragrance composed by Jean-Michel Duriez (perfumer in house). Freshness, serenity are the
key words of this fresh gourmand scent based around a resinoid of iris (with its cacao facet), an
aquatic floral (nenuphar) heart and a fig milk accord. A daydream embodied by Olivia Palermo.
■ Marco Serussi’s fragrances by Zenith Parfums Paris
Marc Serussi alias Marco Serussi is founder of the brand of shirts and accessories for men.
Retailed in Galeries Lafayette, outlets in France and boutique worldwide. Fragrances are
developed by Zenith Parfums Paris, a fragrance licenses and distribution partner, which has
other brands and works for private labels. Serussi’s trio is MS Homme (relaunching,
composed by Mathilde Bijaoui, Mane) which is a sensual woody scent with floral and intense
spicy accents, for an elegant and confident seducer ; a new MS Oud (Dominique Preyssas,
CPL Aromas) plus MS White created by Julie Massé (Mane) with aromatic tones for a
transparent and crystalline fragrance, with a sensual base. This trio will be followed by
others. For more info and contact: www.zenithparfums.com and ar@zenithparfums.com
■ Flash Back by Olfactive Studio
Founder of the brand, Céline Verleure has added a fifth fragrance to her collection: Flash Back, among Lumière Blanche
(creamy sandalwood), Still Life (sparkling cocktail), Autoportrait (cedar & peppers) Chambre Noire (patchouli, leather &
plum). Flash Back is a vibrating Olivier Cresp composition around citrus, rhubarb, green apple, cedar & 20% Haiti vetiver.
Céline combines her marketing background and passions (travel, photo, ingredients, creation) in her brand.
The idea of the concept: the encounter between a photographer and a perfumer, the ‘eye’ and the
‘nose’. Result? A real olfactory ‘commitment’: unconventional, surprising and off the wall. An O.S
fragrance must trouble our emotions... European Distribution by David Frossard (Différentes Latitudes)
Bergdorf Goodman (N.Y), Middle east distribution by Sagma...
For more info: www.olfactivestudio.com
■ Fragrance Republ!c
Beside his activity of license and distribution (Stella Cadente, Aedes de Venustas...)
François Duquesne (CEO of Beauty Entreprise) is now launching an exciting new project:
Fragrance Republic. It’s a club where members get direct access to original fine fragrances
as created by world class perfumers. A fragrance lab to discover, to ‘smell by the
description of its author’ and the possibility to keep it for oneself only. To join the club, you
choose between 3 levels of membership. Each month, you can discover a new fragrance
composed by a great perfumer.
For more info: www.fragrancerepublic.net
FR! 01/01 Iris Safran is the first
perfume available by oct 2013.
Perfumer : Nathalie Feisthauer
(Symrise)
Trophy CEW golf PICG – June 25 -> tel 01 72 92 06 39 – arden@cew.asso.fr
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