wfn-56-september-30

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
WFN 56 September 2015
Content
People
Olivier Aron (Rosae)
Philippe Paparella Paris (Symrise Shanghai)
Daniela Andrier (Givaudan Paris)
What’s up?
Dear Reader,
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 56!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
See you in November!
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator
Van Gogh & Sesame + Ecole Supérieure du Parfum
Collection Notes de Fond by Affinessence
Launches
The first boutique Atelier Cologne in Asia - HK
Différentes Latitudes, 10 years!
Maison Incens by Philippe Constantin
Fragrance Trends
White vs Black fragrances, a selection of perfumes
1925 – 2015
Happy 80, Shalimar!
The famous Guerlain’s oriental never ages
with its legendary accord of bergamot,
vanilla, leather, iris, jasmin, rose, tonka
beans, opoponax, animalic notes…
Shalimar means Temple of Love in Indian
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
[wfn]
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
Olivier Aron – ROSAE
Olivier ARON is the founder of ROSAE, a specialized cosmetics market research
company. Let’s all share one of his latest research about addiction and performance
of the juices.
The 2 most important factors to assess the future performance of a juice (on the
market) are, on one hand, its quantitative performance in terms of liking and purchase
intention, and on the other, the density of the qualitative addiction expressed freely
by the consumer (ie the words that measure the « wow » factor such as « I adore »,
«this perfume is made for me» , « I want to buy it right away » etc.).
Based on 15 years of experience helping the major brands such as Paco Rabanne,
Thierry Mugler, Lancôme, Cacharel, Nina Ricci, Azzaro and many others, as well as
working continuously for the major fragrance houses (Firmenich, IFF, Symrise, Mane
and Givaudan), ROSAE has established a close correlation between these two factors.
People tend to bring into opposition commercial performance and signature scent.
ROSAE can explain how wrong they are, with Rosae’s method. To go further, please do
contact: olivier.aron@rosae.net
Philippe Paparella Paris – SYMRISE SHANGHAI
Expert in Asian markets. Philippe Paparella Paris began his career as a perfumer at
Mane, in Bar Sur Loup after his studies at ISIPCA. He moved to Asia where he worked
in Indonesia for 2 years, and then settled in Beijing and Shanghai where he stayed
until 2008. Philippe had the opportunity to join Symrise there and work on local
projects and international as well. Among his creations, there are Sweet Honesty
Moments (Avon), Sweet Honesty Brillance (Avon) developed for the Philippines
market. Philippe won Ferrari Bright Neroli Essence (cocreated with Lucas Sieuzac) and
Ferrari Noble Fig Essence, Romano Metro Pulse and Colonia Cuoio (Renato Balestra).
Daniela Andrier – GIVAUDAN PARIS
“There is no fragrance in real life that perfumers can imitate to perfection. You can
never render the beauty of nature... I don't think it is interesting to even try. You can
never compete. Rather fragrance should be a powerful cocktail of memories and
emotion”. Daniela Andrier is well-known in the small world of perfumers. Daniela
Andrier was born in Heidelberg (Germany). She studied philosophy at the Sorbonne
before deciding on a career in perfume. Daniela started as a trainee at Chanel in 1988;
the following year, she began attending at the Roure Perfumery School. Personality,
charisma, and a special fragrant Italian touch enhance the way she composes the
fragrances. Her list of successes is long.
To quote a few: the new launch
from Miu Miu this fall, all Prada
perfumes, many Bulgari and
Bottega Veneta, not forgetting
Guerlain Angelique Noire
or
Martin
Margiela’s
Untitled,
Kenzo’s Le Monde est beau, and
the latest Prada’s Olfactories
(shown).
Courtesy of Givaudan
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant What’s up?
Van Gogh & Sesame by Ecole Supérieure du Parfum
Painting odors, smelling colors
In 1890, when he was in Auvers sur Oise, famous
painter Van Gogh told his brother that his dream
was to exhibit his paintings in a coffee shop.
Johann Vitrey (Sesame) and students from the
Ecole Supérieure du Parfum ‘Jasmin 2017
promotion’ made this dream come true by
creating a line of scented candles reflecting 6 of
Van Gogh’s paintings.
6 paintings, 6 colors and 6 fragrances, « Promenade à Auvers »
All benefits from the sale of the candles (available at Sens Unique, Jovoy, and also museums) will be given to
Maison Van Gogh. Partners are among them Valérie Pasmanian, Bougies la Française, Carbonnel and Procos…
Affinessence – Collection Notes de Fond by Sophie Bruneau
The creator Sophie Bruneau is as sunny and energetic as her smiling and passionate
face. She is entire as her first Collection Notes de Fond.
After many years in the marketing and fragrance development, Sophie founded in
2013 her company Affinessence to accompany brands and develop their perfumes.
This year, true to her convictions and passion, she decided to go further and dive
into the world of niche brands by launching her first own ‘Collection Notes de
Fond’. Risky but a calcutated one.
A highly personal and daring collection of 4 fragrances made up exclusively with
base notes and longlasting ingredients. Precious because of the ingredients –
Sophie didn’t stint on the cost price to the perfumers and original (without the
classical olfactory pyramid ‘head-heart-base’). She wanted the best quality of
ingredients for a rich sillage (trail): Vanilla from Tahiti and Madagascar, Labdanum,
Patchouli from Indonesia, Benzoin from Siam, Iris Pallida, Myrrh, Sandalwood from
Mysore, Cedar (3 varieties), a genuine Oud essence from Indonesia…
Sophie wanted them to be recognizable and emblematic. The result is that
Collection Notes De Fond is altogether raw, direct, sensual, harmonious, refined
and vibrant, with volume. This new line is currently available at Jovoy awaiting
distribution in selected perfumeries. 100 ml retails at € 300.
4 duos of extremely longlasting fragrances
created by 3 perfumers for a collection of
Perfumes of excellence presented in a natural
cashmere pouch. The pure bottle is inspired by
Art Deco design.
- Nicolas Bonneville (Fragrance Resources): Cèdre
Iris and Patchouli Oud
- Corine Cachen (Drom): Vanille Benjoin
- Alexandra Carlin (Symrise): Santal Basmati
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
Hong Kong, 5th boutique for Atelier Cologne
After NY and Paris, Atelier Cologne brings its signature
Cologne Absolue to Hong Kong with Asia’s first
Boutique at the Prestigious ifc mall. The opening of
this store in Asia represents a key investment for
Atelier Cologne and is the starting point of a growth
strategy in this region. Additional openings are planed
in Asia in 2016 and 2017. Relying today on more than
10 personalized points of sales in China (Lane
Crawford, Sogo, 10 Corso Como) and Korea
(Hyundai and Lotte), Atelier Cologne has
already established a highly qualitative presence. The
opening of this Boutique will serve to reinforce
commitment to the region and also to its clients who
are increasingly inclined to wear perfumes.
A new challenge and retail concept to enhance the shopping experience and the discovery of about 25 Colognes
Absolues in line with the evolution of the Chinese tastes in fragrances.
Différentes Latitudes happy 10 years : 2005- 2015!
In september 2005, David Frossard (picture) has co-founded Différentes Latitudes
with Loic Leguen, as a trademark for independent perfumers. The company has
grown with 10 employees and since 2008 has gained renowned expertise in the
fragrance niche market by distributing a selection of outstanding brands such as
Fornasetti, Arquiste, Dear Rose, Frapin, Odin NY, Piguet, Atkinsons, Pour Toujours,
Miller Harris, Noble Isle, Room 1015… through a network of sales outlets in Europe,
the United States, the Middle East and Russia. Différentes Latitudes has its own
boutique Liquides in Le Haut Marais in Paris and owns P. Frapin & Cie. To celebrate
this anniversary, conferences will be given between October and December in the
boutique.
Maison Incens by Philippe Constantin
Cuir Erindil
Figue Aoudii
Figue Eleii
Musc Kalirii
Oud Deneii
Maison Incens is a French based fragrance house founded in 2013 by
Philippe Constantin who was born in Morocco to a French father and a
Moroccan mother. He grew up in Casablanca, and decided to go to France
for his studies.
One encounter changed his destiny. The day Philippe Constantin met the
perfumer Jean-Claude Gigodot (perfumer for Au pays de la fleur
d’Oranger) changed his life and his career. His passion for perfumes was
born. A few years later, he decided to create Maison Incens in homage to
his father and the manuscript he had left his son with: a compilation of
drawings on leather, and scented stories.
Maison Incens is available at Sens Unique Paris and is retailed by Nobile
1942 in Italy where the brand works well, and by Aromateka in Russia.
Presence in Germany and UK is to be expected soon.
More info: www.maison-incens.com
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrance Trends
Some new White vs Black Fragrances
Light! Softness! White strength!
White fragrances, white packaging, white sensations of breeze,
creamy notes or white flowers… Purity, cocoon, strength,
coldness… The white color in perfume is treated differently by
brands in recent launches.
Penhaligons plays on the strength of the wind against the rocks in
England – Blasted Heath and Blasted Bloom, creations signed by
A. Morillas (Firmenich)
Dear Rose’s White Song enhances the white notes of the Galant
de Nuit flower with spices, a new Fabrice Pellegrin’s signature.
Reminiscence’s Patchouli Blanc sublimates the senses in the
softness of the sandalwood, aubepine and white musks… Fabrice
Pellegrin (Firmenich) for the composition
Nivea eau de toilette, the second time that the mythic cream is
translated into a perfume – a floral aldehydic powdery …
Selfie by Olfactive Studio is a modern sweet aromatic chypre
created by Thomas Fontaine (Pallida), with angelica, moss,
incense….
On the other side, Black perfumes continue to grow, with black
bottles or labels, dark and intense notes of oudsy, woodsy,
ambery or white flowers… How many ways to express sensuality?
Noir Exquis by L’Artisan Parfumeur with coffee beans, maple
syrup and glazed chestnuts, signed B. Duchaufour
Cuir Impertinent by Les Exceptions Mugler
The smokiness of tanned leather meets the unexpected explosion
of star anise, to create a unique scent, created by Jean-Christophe
Hérault (IFF)
The Scent by Hugo Boss with the note of ambery combined with
maninka fruit and leather (IFF)
Ambre Impérial by VCA created by Quentin Bisch (Givaudan)
Kilian’s new provocative ‘Voulez-vous coucher avec moi?’ with
sandalwood, tuberose … created by Alberto Morillas (Firmenich)
Dear Rose’s Song for a Queen, with black vanilla in a floriental
accord, signed Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich)
Black Musk by The Body Shop signed by Cécile Matton and Ralf
Schwieger (Mane)