Diapositive 1 - Esprit de Parfum

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
Content
WFN 49 _April 14
Perfumers & Co
Anne Sophie Chapuis - Cariou (IFF)
Francis Kurkdjian (Takasago)
Guillaume Flavigny (Givaudan)
Smelling the Heritage of Guerlain
Fragrant Sagas
Hermès
Reminiscence
Dear Reader
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 49!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
See you soon, in June 2014
Selection of Fragrances
Dear Rose
Parfums Rares
La Manufacture
Les Exceptions Mugler
Thirdman Fragrances
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluation
Muguet in May
The smile of Sorriso
by Pro Fvmvm Roma
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum) and credits photos
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Nathalie Pichard
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toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
Anne Sophie CHAPUIS CARIOU – IFF
Based in IFF France since 1992, Anne-Sophie has found her place by accepting the challenges of
combining creativity and fundamental research. After a graduation in biochemistry and from
ISIPCA, she joined IFF as perfumer’s technician. In 1999, she joined the IFF’s Beauty Care team Her
determination to join the creation allowed her in 1994 to become a trainee perfumer and to
follow each Senior Fine Fragrance Perfumers during one over year to learn the rudiments and
secrets of modern Perfumery. Her scientific background allowed her to enjoy both the technical
and creation side. The access to products from mass-market completed her experience in Fine
Fragrance and allowed her to explore this category with a modern and creative view. She created
53 et Odeur 71 de Comme des Garçons and L’Oréal Advance Haicare US, deo Rexona Aloe vera
Francis KURKDJIAN – TAKASAGO
Before becoming the multifaceted perfumer we know, Francis Kurkdjian spend his childhood by
playing piano and practicing ballet. At age 15, he discovered another metier: perfumer creator.
After graduating from ISIPCA in 1992, he joined Quest Intl. where he created, a year after, Le
Male by Jean Paul Gaultier which boosted his career. In 2001 he launched bespoke fragrance
creation under his own name. In 2005, Francis joined Takasago Intl. while founding his brand,
Maison Francis Kurkdjian, in 2009. His high-end luxury line is build has a fragrance wardrobe and
is presented in two boutiques (Paris, Kuala Lumpur) and 265 points of sales worldwide to
date. Among his main creation in duo or solo let’s mention: Iris Nobile Acqua di Parma, For her
Narciso Rodriguez, Fleur de Figuier Roger & Gallet, Elie Saab, Green Tea Elizabeth Arden,
Carven and the next fragrance by Burberry. Part of his creative time is also dedicated to olfactive
installations around the world.
Guillaume FLAVIGNY – GIVAUDAN
Cheerful with his red glasses, tall… Here is Guillaume. After studying Chemistry, Guillaume began
at ISIPCA. In 1998, faithful to his willingness and desire to be engaged in the world of perfumery,
he joined in the promotion of MST ISIPCA’s Bel Aesthète. Wishing to broaden his knowledge and
develop his creativity further, Guillaume started at the Givaudan School of Perfumery. In 2003,
aged 27, he joined the Fine Fragrance team of Perfumers at Givaudan, Paris. His list of creations is
very impressive for major prestige or masstige brands such as Dolce&Gabanna, Azzaro, Lacoste,
Tommy Hilfiger, Avon, Fragonard, Sisley, Oscar de la Renta, Salvador Dali, … to name a few.
Let’s mention his latest Black Comme des Garçons (2013) which has been awarded by the French
Fifis this year.
Smelling The Heritage – GUERLAIN
Guerlain was founded in 1828. Five generations of perfumers have succeeded one
another, holding the creative reins. And those craftsmen perpetuated our in-house
manufacturing expertise. That’s why perfumer in house Thierry Wasser and Frederic
Sacone, his assistant, wanted to highlight it in organizing a special, private and
exceptional smelling session for bloggers (and I). To make us understand the richness,
the DNA of the brand, the deep heritage left by their creators. And try to invent the
future… An intoxicating and joyful moment for us, olfactory geeks !
About 25 perfumes were smelt in their original formulas, in extract (pure perfume). They have been reweighed with initial ingredients. Such a huge job done by the fragrance team! We smelt fragrances
created from 1877 to 1952. An olfactory journey from Pao Rosa, Chypre de Paris, Shalimar, Mitsouko,
Sous le Vent, Bouquet de Faunes, Candide Effluve, Fleur qui Meurt, A travers Champs … to Djedi or
Coque d’Or. Bizarre names and bottles designs, sign of the times and eras. And at the end, what was the
feeling? A signature. An art. An unrivalled olfactory style which is more than cliché ‘Guerlinade’ (more a
list of favorite ingredients used in a formula than a real blend). Can I let into a secret? Nitro-musks
(powdery), overdose of dyes, passion, experimentation, bergamot, iris, vanilla, birch… are some of
Guerlain’s treasures key words… Don’t expect to know them all, secrets are kept in a safe !
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■ Fragrant Sagas
Hermès
Since 1837, the world of the saddler Hermès has been made up of men, nature
and colors: Orange first, horses, leather, silk, precious materials and handcraft.
The first fragrance saga begins in 1951 with a confident yet luxurious floral citrus
spicy leathery scent: Eau d’Hermès is born, created by master Edmond Routniska.
This fragrance sums up olfactory philosophy of Hermès: simple yet complex,
quality, natural ingredients, fragrances to share, leather, elegance… whispering in
every Hermès fragrance today. Many years later, the great man became later Jean
Claude Ellena’s mentor in perfumery and a model.
Calèche, Eau de Cologne d’Hermès (Françoise Caron’s creation),
Parfum d’Hermès, Bel Ami (Jean Louis Sieuzac) and many others
were composed and designed with the same demanding respect
and luxury code. Hermessence and the Jardin collection lived
alongside hugely successful Terre d’Hermès and Jour d’Hermès.
Woods vs Flowers. Hermès creations have evolved and matured.
Softly a new olfactory wind may blow when Christine Nagel and
Jean-Claude Ellena combine their own talent and style over the
coming months.
Hermessence, Terre d’Hermès Eau très Fraîche
and Jour d’Hermès Intense, the Hermès style.
Less is more.
Reminiscence, creator of jewels, master perfumer since 1970
The legendary mark of a passionate creative brand.
It’s above all a story of love and passion which started in early 1970, between a visionary man,
Nino Amaddeo and his creative muse Zoé. A story of passions In the very special atmosphere of
London of the late sixties and the patchouli scents in the markets, where they hunted their
treasured objects and found inspiration to set up their own brand of handcrafted jewels. Back to
their homeland Juan les Pins and loaded with new emotions, they opened in 1970, their own
first boutique, as a real bazaar filled with life where dreaming and creating go naturally hand in
hand. Today, the brand has a strong presence in Europe, in France in particular, and abroad.
The fragrances are available in 2500 points of sale, 1200 in France.
Patchouli, the legendary perfume
The magic of encounter and a memory of the intense
smell of Patchouli founded in London emerged once
again in Zoé’s heart. She crossed the path of a "magical
alchemist" in Grasse and in 1970, offered Reminiscence
its first olfactory signature, and Patchouli its prestige.
Patchouli is the iconic patchouli scent made of
patchouli, vanilla, woods and love. Then went Rem,
the only and first one to smell of the sand and the sea in
1996, and many others such as Vanille, Musc, Ambre,
Oud, Remiscence, Rem Bow…
Love Rose & White Tubéreuse
Rem in its new pack
with Patchouli and Oud
Following all stories Reminiscence has always shared with passion and audacity,
here is a new rich story that has never been written yet. Perfumer and jeweller
since1970, Reminiscence combines for the first time its core business around a
collection of rare and luxury refined eaux de parfum.
A collection that tells a new story, the story of mythical and iconic flowers: Love
Rose (rose, woody, chypre created by Angéline Leporini from Robertet) and
White Tubéreuse (fresh tuberose, spices and musk, created by Fabrice Pellegrin).
The precious fragrances are also designed like jewels with a unique topaze on
each cap. For more info: www.reminiscence.fr
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Nathalie Pichard
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toPNotes
■ Fragrant Stories
Dear Rose
A shiver of pleasure !
Chantal Roos, the great first lady of fragrance, the powerhouse behind such legendary juices as
YSL’s Opium and Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey, has teamed up with her daughter, Alexandra, to
create a quintet of scents aimed at connoisseurs consumers. Chantal promoted the new
collection together with Alexandra Roos, a musician who has issued four albums of modern
chansons. Two worlds and the sensibilities of Chantal and Alexandra unite fragrances and music
into extraordinary notes while providing a completely unique style of the Dear Rose collection
full of warmth. It was the first time she had started completely from scratch because, in her
roles creating fragrances for YSL, Issey Miyake and Jean-Paul Gaultier, she always worked within
an established DNA (sexiness, transparence, fashion) and her job was to take that DNA and
transform it into a fragrance. With Dear Rose, she is creating both her and her daughter’s
stories. The dear is for the emotion, and rose is a mythical flower in fragrance.
The collection is made up with 5 eaux de parfum available in elegant glass
bottles of 100 ml. The design excelled for its simplicity and thick glass bottom,
contributing to a special refraction of light. The stopper is black with discrete
golden color details. The outer cartons are white, also sophisticated and
elegant.
A Capella combines notes of rosebud absolute, ivy leaf and luminous white
woods, which capture the morning sun, said Roos.
I Love My Man is about the joy of love with notes of Bulgarian and centifolia
rose, cinnamon, tonka bean and sandalwood.
Bloody Rose, which combines ylang-ylang, orange flower, incense and
patchouli, addresses the choice to love.
Sympathy for the Sun, an ode to love on the beach, combines jasmine petal,
peony and salt.
La Favorite, a combination of pink pepper, saffron, oud wood and patchouli, is
intended to capture the heady essences of evening.
The scents have been composed by Firmenich’s talented Fabrice Pellegrin.
Fragrances are available from April 2014 and distributed by niche specialist
retailer Différentes Latitudes. Price is 125€
For more info: www.dear-rose.fr
A Capella, I Love My Man, Bloody Rose,
Sympathy for the Sun, La Favorite
The book ‘Parfums rares’, a must have in your fragrant library
Since the 80’s, lovers of perfumes have been witnessing the emergence of another and unique
perfumery with creator-founders-perfumers. Those are all inspired by a special intuition in the
creative process, with the desire to control raw materials, distribution, retail...
This beautifully illustrated book (commissioned by l’Osmothèque) is about new spaces of
expression for the art of perfume. This is found somewhere between the most refined
tradition ‘Haute Parfumerie’ and a provocative and unexpected urban modernity perfumery.
The book highlights the new personalities of this wave.
Audacity with Etat Libre d’Orange, originality with Comme des Garçons, more than 40* new
approaches of creation are building a new school of perfumery.
Written by two journalists specialized in fragrance: Sabine Chabbert and Laurence Férat.
*Annick Goutal l L’Artisan Parfumeur l Comme des Garçons l Creed l Diptyque l Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier l Nicolaï l Serge Lutens | Atelier Cologne l
Éditions de parfums Frédéric Malle l État Libre d’Orange l By Kilian l Le Labo l Maison Martin Margiela l Mark Buxton l Memo l Olfactive Studio l Parfumerie
Générale l Parfum d’Empire l The Different Company l Bond N° 9 l Floris l Humiecki & Graef l L’Italie des parfums l Les Nez l Penhaligon’s l Santa Maria
Novella l Armani Privé l Caron l Les Heures de Parfum de Cartier l Les Exclusifs de Chanel l Collection Privée Christian Dior l Fragonard l Les Collections
Exclusives de Guerlain l Les Hermessences l Jean Patou l Parfums d’Orsay l Robert Piguet l Essences Exclusives de Prada l Tom Ford Private Blend l
Collection Extraordinaire de Van Cleef & Arpels l Le Bon Marché l Colette l Différentes Latitudes l Jovoy l La Belle Parfumerie du Printemps l Marie
Antoinette l Nose
Press contact: Sophie d’Auber: sao@osmotheque.fr
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Nathalie Pichard
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toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
La Manufacture
The passion for fragrances, historic preservation and ancient buildings led Bruno
Truchon Bartès to found his own brand and fragrance house La Manufacture
evoking handcraftsmen and traditional know-how (rare materials). Bruno recently
launched Les Colognes Essentielles, a trio of Colognes designed in an architectural
yet simple and classic bottle.
Cologne Rare
Cologne Précieuse
Cologne Noble
Les Colognes Essentielles
Cologne Rare breathes bergamot and basil. Cologne Noble breathes mandarin and
green spices: ginger, cardamom, vetiver iris and musk... Both compositions signed by
Carla Chabert. Cologne Précieuse is about orange blossom, a composition signed by
Anne Sophie Behaghel (from Flair)
The scented candles studio (La Manufacture des Châteaux) is dedicated to paying homage to
private memories and whispers the aura of historic edifices: Paradores, Fougère Royale, Bassin du
Parc, L’Orangerie, Potager du Prince, Cour des Epices, Herboristerie, Boudoir...The brand donates
5% of its profits to heritage restoration projects in France.
For more info: lamanufactureparfums.com
Les Exceptions Mugler
Thierry Mugler’s new, structured, statuesque collection.
Once upon a time, there was an extraordinary style, recognizable
amongst all others, somewhere between outstanding heritage and
visionary genius.
This style is Thierry Mugler's, a passionate, unconventional and free
artist who revolutionized fashion design in the 80s-90s before shaking up
the world of perfumery. Since 1992, his powerful artistic vision has been
expressing itself through bold choices and bewitching everyday perfumes.
Thierry MUGLER is transposing this visionary and creative approach directly to perfumes: Daring,
breathtaking, addictive, noble… a new dimension in the fragrance universe, Designer Perfume. The
quintessence of MUGLER's expertise, the experience of a unique sensation, for lovers of the finest
perfumes. Les Exceptions Mugler is a unique collection of creations and original alchemies, crafted
around the major themes of traditional perfumery, in Art deco style bottles: floral, oriental, fougère,
musky and chypre accents. Supra Floral, Oriental Express, Fougère Furieuse, Over the musk,
Chyprissime are signed by IFF’s perfumers Jean-Christophe Hérault and Olivier Polge
Thirdman fragrances, Contemporary Eaux de Cologne
Modern, contemporary, minimalist… pure Eaux.
The brand Thirdman was founded by Jean-Christophe Le Grèves in New York in 2012.
Thirdman is a niche brand whose philosophy embodies
simplicity, modernity, individuality and freedom above
all. Thirdman offers contemporary Eaux de Cologne. The
resulting fragrances are simple and streamlined, and at
the same time both abstract and familiar. The Thirdman
fragrances are packaged in utilitarian bottles, suitable for
chilling or use at room temperature, and designed to be
splashed or sprayed.
Fragrances are available in Neiman Marcus NY, Aedes de
Venustas N.Y, Bergdorf Goodman, Liberty London,
Mecca Cosmetica Australia as well as Colette in Paris.
For more info: www.thirdman.net
Eau Nomade, Eau Profonde, Eau Monumentale, Eau
Moderne composed by perfumers Bruno Jovanovic and
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Clement Gavarry