Diapositive 1 - Esprit de Parfum

[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Formation, Marketing & Evaluation Parfum
Nathalie Pichard
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toPNotes
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Perfumers & Co
In memoriam, Sandrine Videault
Daphné Bugey
Fabrice Pellegrin
Ecole Supérieure du Parfum
Sagas & Focus
Homage to Jean-Louis Scherrer
Le Labo
L’Artisan Parfumeur
The Different Company
Fragrant Asian Events
Traditional Chinese Medecine by Takasago
Asian Creative Sessions by Pascale Elmalan
Selection of Fragrances
Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas
Iris Prima by Penhaligons
Magnolia Grandiflora by Saskia Havekes and Sandrine Videault
Invictus by Paco Rabanne
....
*Huge thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading and corrections
WFN is a free, independent newsletter co-signed by people who are mentioned in it. Since 2007.
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Nathalie Pichard
Fragrant People
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Perfumers & co
■ Homage to our friend Sandrine
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Videault ƚ
Free, Artist. Native of Nouméa in New-Caledonia, where she lived, Sandrine Videault was an
independent perfumer, who could not be classified in any special category of creators. She began with
the great perfumer E.Roudnistka and was also trained by P. Bourdon, at Fragrance Resources.
Sandrine was a pure creative woman, renowned for her olfactory happenings and installations, having
reformulated the famous Khyphi scent (said to be the oldest Egyptian fragrance). Sandrine
collaborated in many projects: museums, institutions, brands, ... she was able to fragrance everything
Sandrine Videault
(installations, historical exhibitions, decorations...).
Sandrine’s recent news was the creation of the perfume ‘Magnolia Grandiflora’, launched by Australian floral designer
Saskia Havekes. But don’t get the wrong idea, Sandrine’s perfumes were not all based on monoï or tiare...! Rediscover her
portfolio. Sandrine, 44, passed away on the 3th of July taken by a lung cancer. I wanted to pay tribute to her.
■ Daphné
Bugey (Firmenich)
‘’I was born out of curiosity’’ . Her happy smile betrays a generous personality. Native of Grenoble
(near Switzerland), Daphné is (as we say) a Firmenich girl. She joined the Swiss company when she
was studying at ISIPCA and never changed. She has been working for 15 years in body care (in the
USA) and fine where she finally joined the fine fragrance team in Paris, in 2003. In 2009 she decided
to take a sabbatical year and traveled across India, Nepal, Japan, Italy where she was able to benefit
from new horizons and experiences. She has composed many fragrances for major big players such
as Miyake, Boss, Dsquared, last KenzoAmour my Love by Kenzo, Azzaro, the beautiful but
misunderstood Miyake’s A Scent, and latest Le Labo Lys 41 (she is author of Rose 31, Neroli 36 and
Bergamote 22 in the brand).
■ Fabrice
Daphné Bugey
Pellegrin (Firmenich)
‘’To make beautiful things, I need to have a story, exchange ideas, it is only in sharing with people
that the magic can begin’’. Born in Grasse, Fabrice is one of the rising perfumers of the moment. He
joined Firmenich in 2008 after 13 years at Mane and 7 at Robertet where he first began his career.
Passionate, wholesome, sportsman, Fabrice likes to collect niche fragrances and oriental fragrances.
He has a penchant especially towards naturals (resins, balms, spices and woods) inspired by Opium or
Féminité du Bois. He has signed many different creations for Diptyque (Volutes, Eau Rose, Eau
Duelle), Jo Malone (Blackberry and Bay, Velvet Rose and Oud) as well as for the recent Diesel, Cavalli
Fabrice Pellegrin
or Victorinox, Thierry Mugler, Paco Rabanne, Swarovski (Aura Love Collection) and Reminiscence
(the latest Rem&Bow).
■ Ecole Supérieure du Parfum
Almost two years later after its creation in October 2011, Ecole Supérieure du Parfum, the new French
school of perfumery, follows its road. The house (like a actory made of brick) is based in Paris, near the
trendy quarter of La Bastille. It is a little revolution in the industry. Its initial statement is to offer training
that will allow young professionals to master the process of creation whilst keeping an open mind with
respect to the constraints of production, security, sales and marketing etc. The aim is to give students a
‘real double expertise’ and a maximum of career opportunities. This has been validated by all of the peers
and particularly by those in the industry itself.
The private school has been founded in partnership with ‘Ecoles de Condé’ (specialized in design, applied arts and
photography) and Maurice Alhadève (ISIPCA’s former managing director), president of the ‘Conseil de Perfectionnement’
composed of members from brands, labs, the SFP and Pierre et Marie Curie University (partnership). Teachers are backed
up by experts and professionals who give conferences or courses. Motivated students work together in a very good
atmosphere, passionate about the world of fragrances and ready to join the big players which are waiting for them after
5 years of studies. Many projects and partnerships with manufacturers are in progress, which all goes to show the
vitality and the involvement of the school, animated by the true spirit of a start up.
For more info: www.ecole-parfum.com + Chantal Artignan, School Director: chantal.artignan@ecole-parfum.com
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Nathalie Pichard
Fragrant Focus
TMC & Chinese trends
■ Inspiration
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and Trends – Traditional Chinese Medicine (TMC) by Takasago
In times of globalization, inspiring customers is a daily marketing job in a major
international fragrance house such as Takasago. Finding out new concepts,
sources, trends and ideas from different cultures and countries, in order to
develop new scents and products in fine or functional perfumery. Also
stimulating tools of creativity for perfumers ! The Japanese company Takasago
searches out new ideas in China and in its Traditional Chinese Medicine (so
called TMC) books and stores and brings back many interesting olfactive
recipes and materials. In TMC, the odour of a body is key to establishing the
diagnostis. It reveals a healthy body has no odour. Among 300 ingredients are
known and used in the chinese materia medica... But only a selection of iconic
raw materials were given to perfumers to inspire them in their creations.
The result? Pro active accords inpired from a raw material or a
reinterpretation of it: Goji berries considered as superfruit with many
energetic properties, Chinese Basil, Costus (accents of goat cheese, with
smoky accents), Chinese date (Jujube, reminiscent of plum), Ganoderme
(mushroom), Ginseng, Osmanthus, Ginger... An invitation to travel in the
oldest traditions and particular uses and habits of Chinese people. For more
info: arnaud_guggenbuhl@takasago.com
■ Asian
Creative Sessions - China, Japan & Asia Insights by Pascale Elmalan (Axian Partners)
China, Japan and APAC regions might be such an eldorado for fragrances
and cosmetics companies…
But understanding markets & consumers there is a real challenge.
Axian Partners’ Asian creative session is a new tool to explore Asia and
optimize the knowledge of your team about China, Japan,… , from cultural
know-how to fragrance history exploration & many more info such as:
which fragrances are performing in China? Who are the consumers? How
to break the code of popular advertisings? What ingredients are well
perceived in skin care? What about aging « Bimajo » segment in Japan?
How to express new claims?
A mix of culture, market, trends, and information about products
and consumers insigths…in order to learn more about fragrances,
skin care & beauty in men’s or women’s market: Initiate a creative
session to integrate Asia, as a whole, from the inception of your
project to its completion, with your R&D, development and /or
marketing team.
The results? From new products to better consumer knowledge,
new claims or positioning according to your objectives.
For more info: info@axianpartners.com
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Nathalie Pichard
Fragrant Brands
Homage & High perfumery
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■
Homage to Jean-Louis Scherrer
French Elegance. The French Haute Couture is grieving: its ambassador of luxury and know-how,
Jean-Louis Scherrer passed away on the 20th of June, aged 78. Instead of being a dancer at
Opera, JLS was taught stylism by maestro Christian Dior and was assisant to Yves Saint-Laurent. He
also worked with Louis Féraud. Scherrer opened his own boutique in 1962, rue St Honoré and
then avenue Montaigne in 1971. J.Kennedy, C. Cardinale or Raquel Welch were among his loyal
customers. Ups and downs have driven his life (loss of his name, illness, changes of the market...)
but his prestige is still alive, praised by the new generation of designers.
His first fragrance was born in 1979: Jean-Louis scherrer, a green chypre with
animalic accents (composed by Max Gavarry from IFF), then Scherrer 2 (floral
aldehydic signed by A. Morillas) followed. Nuits Indiennes, a spicy vanilla
oriental signed by Nathalie Feisthauer was launched in 1994. Iconic bottles
and juices remind us of the best of the 80 / 90’s. Be reassured, JLS’s beautiful
fragrances are currently owned by Designer Parfums LTD (Agent Provocateur,
Patou, Ghost, Worth Paris, Aigner) run in France by Bruno Cottard and
retailed by recent company Beauty BC (in charge of Eden Park, Patou,
Ungaro-Ferragamo, in France...), available in Sephora, Nocibé and
independent perfumeries. For more info:www.designerparfums.com and
BeautyBC.com.
■ LE LABO Grasse – New York
“Our perfumes are named by the main ingredient (in terms of weight) in the formula, followed by the total number of it. Any
perfumer or real expert knows that it is very common that the main ingredient in a formula is not necessary identifiable by the
common nose, and even by the educated one”. Founded in the years 2000 in N.Y by 2 French guys (Edouard
Roschi & Fabrice Penot) Le Labo is this low key New York based niche perfume brand which is growing
very fast, with already 7 stand alone stores on the planet. Recognizable by its lab bottles, numbers and
letters written on the labels, with a hand-crafted spirit. This summer, the collection (20 fragrances) is
enriched with a twin of florals, described as imperfect and ambivalent : Lys 41, Ylang 49. Daphné Bugey
has created Lys 41 (tuberose and jasmine combined with woods and musks) and Frank Voelkl Ylang 49 (chypre
floral). For more info: www.lelabofragrances.com
■ Explosions d’Emotions by L ‘Artisan Parfumeur
In September, L’Artisan Parfumeur promises a new olfactory opus called ‘Explosions d’Emotions’. A collection of
3 eaux de parfum imagined by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour around Passion, Emotions and the Power of
Evocation.This trio is composed with no compromise: exceptional and high quality ingredients. The 3 eaux de
parfums will be available in 125 ml spray in a heavy faceted bottle, presented in a white box. Amour Nocturne
talks about the intimacy and tenderness of a loving night. Explosion of cedar, milky caramel and orchids. Deliria
is as crazy as its gourmand notes all in excess. Skin on Skin appeals to our primal senses, love and sensuality. An
animalic iris wrapped in suede, saffron, rose and whiskey. Bertrand Duchaufour is used to composing for the
brand for which he always tries to exceed his creative imagination by combining unusual, original, unexpected
ingredients into accords.
■ Esprit Cologne by The
South Bay, Kâshân Rose,
White Zagora
The 3 new Esprit Cologne
Different Company (TDC)
The TDC Haute parfumerie’s motto: ingredients, simplicity and the highest level of quality.
Difference. The TDC brand likes to disrupt the codes of classic perfumery by reinterpreting
the traditional structure of ‘Cologne’. A new collection is being launched this summer,
created by Emilie Coppermann (Symrise), who already signed the first Esprit Cologne in
2012. Neroli, Rose and Grapefruit have been worked in fresh, sparkling and unexpected
accords. White Zagora evokes the white freshness of an Oasis: splash of citrus, jasmine,
neroli and musky amber), Kâshân Rose is inspired from Persia markets with lychee and red
berries, and South Bay, evokes Art deco in Florida, with a zesty grapefruit softened by
sandalwood. Available at 350 points of sale (Printemps, Nose, boutique, perfumeries).
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Nathalie Pichard
Fragrant Launches
Niche & Prestige
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■ Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas
After the first B.Duchaufour’s ‘rhubarb-vetiver’ accord, Beauty Entreprise (the brand licensee) is launching
Iris Nazarena, the 2nd fragrant opus signed Aedes de Venustas, aka ‘the temple of the beauty’. The
baroque boutique perfumery located in the West Village of Manhattan was founded by Karl Bradl and
Robert Gerstner in 1995 and has become since then a must-visit address for all perfumistas. Ralf
Schwieger reinterpreted an iris, growing in the mountains of Nazareth. Accents of violet, incense (heart
of the collection), ambrette, rose and anise. The overall scent is not powdery, just transparent like a
vegetal and luminous iris. Mystical and modern. For more info: www.aedes-parfums.com
■
Iris Prima by Penhaligons
Iris Prima. An olfactory choregraphy signed Penhaligons who asked Catalan Master Perfumer Alberto
Morillas to compose a delicate and subtile dance around absolute iris. Alberto Morillas worked with the
ballerinas and the English National Ballet team. He created it as an interpretation of the essence of the Art
of Ballet. It starts with a duo, a fresh bergamot spiced by pink pepper. Then, iris dances with jasmine,
highlighted by two powerful floral molecules (Hedion and Paradisone), sustained by leather, vetiver,
musks, benzoin and vanilla. The English National Ballet and Penhaligon’s have been working together for a
year. Iris Prima is as soft, delicate, feminine as young Ballerinas. For more info:www.penhaligons.com
■ Magnolia
Grandiflora by Grandiflora
Saskia Havekes is a very special woman. She looks like Nicole Kidman, she is Australian as well…Her
creative talents however don’t lie in acting, but rather as an artistic floral designer. She opened her first
boutique ‘GRANDIFLORA” in Potts Point, Australia. She met Michael Edwards and perfumer Sandrine
Videault who convinced her to create her own fragrance around her favourite flower: the magnolia. The
result? An airy, fresh, sparkling, vegetal and solar soliflore…with topnotes of grapefruit, citrus, green and
aquatic accords, sustained by white musks. A luminous garden in summertime. Pre-orders can be placed
via fragrance@grandiflora.net. Magnolia Grandiflora will be stocked at Colette and Club21 in Singapore.
■ Expected !
Splash! Patricia de Nicolaï offers her 5th eau fraîche, Eau sOleil, suggesting a very fresh sunny
fragrance made with orange blossom, jasmin, ylang where naturals are highly present.
Aromatic Skin care brand Delarom launched its Orangia Bellissima, a fresh and fruity fragrance.
Ideal for summertime and well-being.
On August the 19th launching of Boss Nuit pour Femme de Hugo Boss. Embodied by actress
Gwyneth Paltrow, the fragrance is aimed to women who live another life when night comes.
Self-confident, seductive, elegant, Boss Nuit pour Femme is a true contemporary floral with a
green, aldehydic, peachy topnotes which evolves on a floral (with a hint of violet), sustained by
a creamy sandalwood background. It comes into a classic black spray recalling the 80’s.
Rêve by Van Cleef & Arpels, a new feminine fragrance. Bottle is designed by Fabrice Legros.
Yohji Yamamoto fragrances are back ! With IFD Group, the classics (composed by Kerléo, J.M
Duriez...) have been relaunched alongside with new ones, Yohji Senses, created by Olivier
Pescheux (Givaudan).
Paco Rabanne’s Invictus, third chapter in the male saga
Invictus, a new vision. A mega launch is expected after 1 Million’s success introducted in 2008.
Paco Rabanne bottles the bouquet of victory, the new concept of Invictus for men. Invictus offers
status, dream, escape. This time, it’s less materialistic than Million, more about the self. IFF’s
juice is described as a textured scent with very pronounced depth and base. A two-layered
entity, it contains both fresh woods and spice. “We were really aiming for salty skin – but
without any smell of the ocean – that would make you want to lick it and taste it,” Véronique
Nyberg explained. Key ingredients include a marine accord, grapefruit zest and bay leaf. A woody
amber accord (guaiac wood, ambergris and patchouli) provides a sultry sillage. Cup bootle is
designed by Cédric Ragot with Pochet, SGD and Qualipac. Invictus is embodied by professional
athlete Nick Youngquest. In October 2013 the Invictus awards will be held with 7 sportsmen from
7 countries… to be continued.
Invictus or the new
heroe, masculine
warrior, competition,
health, success,
good, body, bravery,
victory...
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