Web Fragrant Newsletter

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
WFN 57 December 2015
Content
People
Pierre Bourdon
Nelly Hachem-Ruiz (IFF)
Bruno Jovanovic (IFF New York)
Anne-Louise Gautier (Drom)
Dear Reader,
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 57!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
See you in February 2016!
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
What’s up?
Deco London
Boadicea The Victorious
ADN Atelier Design
Pour un Homme Sport by Caron
Monsieur. by EDPFM
Grands Crus by Berdoues
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator
Other fragrant launches
LA FABRIQUE DES PARFUMS. Naissance d’une industrie du luxe
You really should have this new French book about the manufacturing of perfumes in your library.
Written by Eugénie Briot, the book tells us the (r)evolution of the perfume industry at the
beginning of the 20th Century with the new brands Houbigant, Guerlain, Piver, Roger et
Gallet…The discovery of new raw materials, the universal exhibitions, the war between the first
Parisian department stores, Grasse and the scented gloves etc. With an approach combining
literature, social surveys and science, the book tells the story of the coming of a modern
fragrance industry which will become more and more luxurious.
La fabrique des parfums - Naissance d’une industrie du luxe, Eugénie Briot, Editions Vendémiaire
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
[wfn]
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
Pierre Bourdon
Raise your hand if you don’t know Pierre Bourdon! A graduate from the Paris Institute of
Political Studies, Pierre Bourdon abandoned a mapped-out path and decided to study at
Roure Bertrand Dupont in Grasse. He was taught by Edmond Roudnitska, he learned his
masters’ composition techniques. Unanimously seen as one of the most innovative and
eclectic perfumers of our time, his vision of perfumery is a vision of innovation, modernity
and quality. Over the years, Pierre has had the opportunity to work with many famous
brands and designers, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Davidoff, Joop, Jil Sander, Escada,
Lacoste, Salvatore Ferragamo… His creations are huge: YSL Kouros, Dolce Vita Dior,
Davidoff Cool Water, Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois (with C. Sheldrake), Frédéric Malle
French Lover and Iris Poudre…
In 2014, Pierre Bourdon founded his own brand Pierre
Bourdon by launching 5 perfumes, respecting quality,
freedom and design. “In the Pierre Bourdon perfume line I can truly
express my personal interpretation freely, the most authentic of all
Pierre Bourdon fragrances”. Available at Fortnum and Mason, and
soon in France. www.pierrebourdon.com
La Dame en Rose, Sous les Magnolias, La fin d’un Eté, Le Grand
Tour, Route des Epices
Nelly Hachem Ruiz – IFF
It is always good to start off with passion! After a scientific “baccalauréat”, Nelly, who has
oriental roots from Syria, is passionate about perfumes and first studied chemistry and
chromatography. It was then that she met Jean Kerléo and her dream of being a perfumer
came true. She worked at Guerlain, Yves Rocher and was taught by great perfumers from
IFF, which reinforced her personality. Forthright, focused on beautiful raw materials
(myrrh, vanilla, patchouli, iris…), Nelly’s perfumery mirrors her temperament: strong and
sincere, energetic and positive: these are the characteristics of Nelly’s notes both in herself
and her fragrances. Nelly composed in 2015 Sable Or by Armani Privé with Sophie Labbé
and David Beckham Beyond. Remember her name and smile.
Bruno Jovanovic – IFF NEW YORK
‘’The concept of a perfume is above all an idea that I would reduce into a few simple
definitions’’ Bruno Jovanovic is one of the most talented perfumers of his generation. After
studying at ISIPCA, he joined IFF 15 years ago, where is still working today – moving from
France to NY office. Bruno is known for block busters, indeed he created or collaborated on
Reveal Calvin Klein, The Scent Hugo Boss, Fierce Abercrombie and Fitch, Lady Million..
and for many other American brands. He also created niche perfumes such as Thirdman.
Recently, we heard of his name and work with Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle with Dries
Van Noten and the latest Monsieur. and Dans Mon Lit – with Rose Water Essential™, from
LMR – to fragrance bed linen … using turkish rose and musk.
Anne-Louise Gautier – Drom
“Be fun and creative”, this is her motto in her fragrant life! Young and energetic, Anne-Louise
represents the young generation of French perfumers who are passionate and determined. She
joined Drom Fragrances in 2014, after Mane and ISIPCA. As an Aznavour fan, she likes to twist
her favorite raw materials: patchouli, leather and musky notes. Amongst her list of creations,
we can see that she worked on Ferragamo, Molyneux, Ted Lapidus. Anne-Louise has created
the new feminine Pièce Unique by Grès, which will be launched in March 2016 (a chypre fruity).
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant What’s up?
Deco London
Available in a 50 ml Eau
de Parfum for £75, Deco
London can be purchased
exclusively from
www.deco-london.com
Launched in October 2015, Deco London is a new British perfume house
devoted to the revival of 1920s fragrances. Inspired by young bohemian
aristocrats and socialites who populated London in the 20s, Deco London
captures the elegance and glamour of the era perfectly with six unique Eau
de Parfums, 3 for women and 3 for men. Florals are at the heart of the
collection, combined with either woody, spicy or oriental notes, along with
citrus, musk and amber. The Collection is made up of 6 fragrances: 6
characters named Millicent, Constance, Ernest, Loretta, Quentin and
Lawrence.
Creative Director Sophia Fannon-Howell says ‘Deco London combines the
sophistication, style and exuberance of 1920s London with the finest
elements of classic perfumery. We never compromise on quality. Our
luxury fragrances are made in England and our brand reflects our English
heritage.’
Boadicea the Victorious
This is an independent British brand run by David Crisp.
Boadicea the Victorious – inspired by Britain's archetypal warrior
queen – was launched as a worldwide exclusive brand in Harrods in
2008. The niche British brand has since become one of the bestselling
fragrance collections within Harrods revamped Black Hall of
Perfumery; braving competition from both commercial brands and
Boadicea’s iconic ferocity, passion and
long established boutique perfume houses. Boadicea the Victorious
strength are the very principles that
has developed a loyal following around the globe. Boadicea the
motivate and drive the luxury brand that
bears her name.
Victorious is the ultimate celebration of beauty, strength and nobility
with 8 collections of pure perfume.
Current launches are a stunning new scent Vetiver Imperiale
exclusively created with Four Magazine (a leading food magazine)
and creative Director Jason Atherton and signed by perfumer
Christian Provenzano (CPL Aromas) who has created most of the
collections since 2008 and a new Amber Sapphire (white bottle).
The brand is available in the UK, at Printemps Haussmann (France),
Regia (Spain), Tsum (Moscow), Madison (Bucharest, Budapest),
Osswald (Zurich), Henri Bendel NY, The Avery Perfume in the US.
New boutiques are open in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
www.boadiceaperfume.com
ADN atelier design is a Parisian Design & Graphic agency created by Raphaël
Cloix (on the left - picture) firstly intervening for prestige fragrance & cosmetic
brands. The agency works as a true revealer of Sense. Its expertise comes
from its capacity to visually transcribe the marketing positioning of the brand
on all of its communication tools: product design, logotype design, packaging
design, publishing design, Internet design…
Its craftsmanship is based on a constant research of sense: by accompanying
the brand within its development strategy, by focusing on its roots, cultural
funds and genetic heritage, by integrating new trends and anticipating the
consumer needs. ADN atelier design introduces a new view on the brand’s
visual language by revealing singular creations combining Sense & Elegance.
Dior, Guerlain, L’Occitane en Provence, Davidoff, St Dupont, Stendhal, Jeanne
Piaubert, Maria Galand, L’Oréal, Issey Miyake… are the main references.
ADN Atelier Design
www.adnatelierdesign.fr
Antoine Morel (on the right)
antoine@adnatelierdesign.fr
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
Pour Un Homme de Caron Sport by Caron
Fresh, elegant yet rich. The perfumer William Fraysse (Richard Fraysse’s son) created the
new unexpected Pour Un Homme de Caron Sport. A crispy aromatic fresh and oriental
fragrance which highlights 37 raw materials chosen to make up a rich formula: tonic with
citrus and verbena, lavender (French Label), blue ginger and warmed by cedar wood,
ambergris, tonka bean, benzoin,… and many natural raw materials dear to the brand. The
packaging reveals a blue ground glass bottle, to give the impression of a fresh torrent,
recalling the French Sport teams and blue ginger.
Monsieur. by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle – Bruno Jovanovic
Monsieur. (with a dot!) Many patchouli fragrances have been created since the 70’s but
not like this new one. We immediately think of powerful and unforgettable Gentleman
Givenchy or Patchouli Reminiscence to name a few masterpieces.
How to attack, to work with, to tame, to calm and maybe civilize such a monster as
patchouli? How to celebrate Patchouli to make it wearable? By overdosing it (more
than 50%), by letting its freedom invade our senses… that’s what Bruno Jovanovic did…
as for Ropion’s Carnal Flower. Let the raw material be raw.
Collection Grands Crus by Berdoues
A Grand Cru tells a story... that of its birthplace. The Grand Cru collection
was inspired by a calling to gather the best raw materials from each
territory to regale the perfume universe and bring them together in an
exceptional line of colognes. Each of the six Grand Cru Colognes
expresses one of the world’s regions and proffers a unique interpretation
of its olfactory identity in an original, innovational formula. Six Eaux de
Parfum: Assam of India, Somei Yoshino (a cherry blossom fragrance
inspired by Japan, with additional notes of shiso, jasmine and patchouli),
Oud al Sahraa, Arz El-Rab, Selva do Brazil, Scorza Di Sicilia.
www.berdoues.fr
The Berdoues Colognes Grands Crus
can now be found at Nocibé and
Jovoy Paris from € 68
Other fragrant launches
Pamplemousse-Rhubarbe L’Occitane
Le 15 TDC
Mûre et Musc Extrême
Or Intemporel Lalique
Tubéreuse Vertigineuse Molinard
Patchouli Intense Molinard
Origino Jeroboam
Orangea Profvmvm Roma
Ursa Tiziana Terenzi
Bois Lumière Anatole Le Breton
[wfn]
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Dessert
Hum …Merry Christmas and Happy New Year