A Dam Bouldering Guide

Transcription

ABOULDERING
DAM
GUIDE
the lower teton river canyon
Written By Dean Lords
table of contents
Introduction 2
season
directions
considerations
symbols
Power Box 6
Boulders
switcheroo boulder
Bre Hammel (V?)
Switcheroo (V2*)
Tweedle Dee (V4*)
Hairdresser on Fire (V5)
middle boulders
Circuit Breaker (V?)
mother board
21).
The crypt
Ditch Digger (V3)
Scream, Dracula Scream (V3/V4*)
Rocket From the Crypt (V2*)
Brad Pitt 13
The lower catacombs
Jennifer Aniston (V2*)
Angelina Jolie (V2/V3)
Driftwood 14
Boulder
The Tick (V2/V3)
Cement Pipe 15
Overhang
The White Wall
The Quarry 8
Flat Top 15
Hot Lava (V3*)
The Thing that Only Eats Hippies (V5*)
Not Cho Cheese (V1)
Cool Ranch (V3)
Baby Slab (V0)
Biggy Slabs (V?)
Jack in the Crack (V2*)
Through the Never (PROJ)
Killing of a Flash Boy (PROJ*)
The Floor is Liquid Nitrogen
Heather Slab
Lumber Jill (V1)
Lumber Jack (V2/V4*)
Bazooka Joe (V4*)
Vendetta (V1)
Sippin’ on Sunshine (V3)
Long Black Cadillac (V7*)
Seven Deadly Sins (V4/V5*)
Dirty Crack (V?)
Baby Steps (V?)
Sidewinder (V3)
Hang the DJ (V?)
Dinosaur Jr. (V?)
Flat Top Left (V1)
Flat Top Face (V1)
Tree Surgeon (V?)
Joel’s Traverse (V3)
Lily’s Man Child (V6*)
Sunset Seam (V?)
Simon Says (V4)
Lily’s Mantle (V2/V3*)
Catacombs 20
Bauhaus (V2/V5)
Bela Lugosi (V6*)
Roll With It (V1/2)
Lily’s Boulder 10
riley everett rollins on scream, dracula, scream (see page
Gothic 12
Boulder
Steak Boulder 16
Chad Sr. (V3*)
Mothership 16
Driving Rocketships (V2)
Chad’s Traverse (V2)
The Mothership (V?*)
Alien (V?)
Honest Abe (V3)
UFO-ology (V2)
Cheese Wedge 17
Goat Cheese (V2)
Sakura (V2*)
Feta (V4)
The Big Cheese (V6*)
Corey King Project (V?)
The Chamber 18
Chamber of Secrets (V2/V3)
Chambermaid Secrets (V?)
Chambermaid (V8*)
San Callisto (V9*)
Open Project
Riley Everett Rollins Project
The Coffin Lid (V5)
Chick Rocks 22
Little Chick Rock (V0/V2)
Chick Rock North Face (V0)
It’s Not Easy Being a Hobbit (V3)
The Big Dam 22
Boulder
Left Side Love Handles (V3*)
Love, Hate, Love (V2)
Variation Love Nation (V?)
Dam Nation (V6*)
Dam the Man (V3*)
Just Another Dam Sit Start (V3*)
The Big Dam Pump (V?)
The Walrus 24
The Walrus (V1)
Snake Eyes (V4*)
The Walrus & The Carpenter (V2*)
Grace Under Water (V3/V4)
Aromatherapy 25
Justin B. Project
Aromatherapy (V?)
Slabtastic 26
Boulder
The Edge of Left (V5*)
Slabtastic Face (V?)
Chocolate Eruption (V2/V3)
Savior Faire (V6)
sponsors
climbs by rating
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a dam bouldering guide
1
A DAM BOULDERING
GUIDE
Lower Teton River Canyon, Idaho
Located below the old Teton Dam site
near Newdale, Idaho, the Lower Teton
River Canyon offers a collection of erratic boulders and small walls on the
south side of the river that are perfect
for bouldering. Early exploration of bouldering possibilities started in the fall of
2004 wherein several dozen problems
throughout the canyon were climbed.
Spring 2010 brought a resurgence of interest to the canyon and new problems
were being established on a daily basis.
Increased interest in bouldering and the
rising number of boulder problems are
the reason this print-out exists.
The landscape in the canyon is unique
and full of mystery. Just imagine what
800 billion gallons of water rushing
down river in a single episode must
have been like. Without this disaster,
Season:
Spring and autumn are best. Summer is
usually too hot, but early morning or late
evening sessions can be good. Many of
the sunny winter days can also provide
excellent conditions and will likely offer
the best temperatures for those sloper
problems.
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the bouldering would not exist. What
appears to be a barren wasteland when
viewed from the dam at the south rim of
the canyon is in fact a recreational paradise. The more time spent walking the
sculpted landscape will open your eyes
to the magical environment it truly is.
As for the bouldering itself, you can expect the typical characteristics of Volcanic Tuff: abrasive and somewhat friable.
The stone is generally good, but being
composed of volcanic ash, one must
expect things to break. All manner of
boulder problems exist: short problems,
serious highballs, overhanging powerful
problems, and crimp-laden steep slabs.
Something for everyone can be found at
the Dam Boulders!
Directions:
From Highway 33 east of Newdale,
Idaho, turn north onto the Teton Dam
Road (12000 N); signage for the “Teton
Dam Site” will be your guide. At the
end of the pavement, turn right onto an
obvious dirt road. Follow this road along
the canyon rim, staying left as it forks,
and park near the turnaround point just
above the white Bureau of Reclamation
gate. This gate blocks driving access
down the switchbacks and into the
canyon.
next switchback in the dirt road comes
in from the right, continue walking
slightly left down the grassy hillside,
passing right of the next power pole,
then down rocky slabs until you reach
the bottom of the canyon just uphill
(south) from the big pond. Continue
west and within 100 yards, the Quarry
will appear on your left.
To reach the Big Dam Boulders (25
minutes from the parking lot), simply
walk the dirt road downstream (SW)
Walk down the road past the white gate from the Quarry. It may seem like a
burden to walk so far but just rememto the first switchback (a right turn in
the road) and continue straight, leaving ber most things worthwhile require
the road to follow a climber’s trail which effort! You can always mountain bike
the approach.
passes a power pole to its left. As the
A few things to consider:
more chalk! Without chalk, the holds
will quickly grease up, leaving polished
and slick stone void of necessary texture. Chalk balls are great for the gym,
but don’t do jack for bouldering outside!
Fill your bucket or chalk bag with
crushed block chalk. Also, brush the
holds often with a nylon bristle brush.
DON’T USE METAL BRUSHES; you will
There are a fair number of highball boulbrush off the very important texture
der problems in the Canyon. PLEASE do
required for gripping slopers.
it right. Come prepared with multiple
The canyon is home to many types of
pads and good spotters. The last thing
you want to do is hike out, or hike some- recreation: fishing, 4x4 rock crawling,
shooting stuff, and on occasion, ragone out of the canyon with a broken
ankle, leg, or arm. It’s serious business, ing parties. Climbers are not the only
so take it seriously. With that being said, recreationalists in the Canyon. Do your
a pad for any bouldering is a good idea. part to keep the canyon clean. Pack out
your trash even if other canyon visitors
Please use A LOT of chalk. If you can
do not.
see bare flesh on your palms, you need
Ticks and mosquitoes are a serious
problem in the spring and early summer. During the summer months, the
boulders are a haven for rattlesnakes.
. . BIG ones! Think before you leap! It’s
also a good idea to check the tops of
the boulders before blindly reaching up
for the awaiting fangs of a rattlesnake.
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understanding
symbols
Difficulty Ratings:
The climbs are rated using a “V” scale
from V0 to V9, where 0 is the easiest
and 9 is the most difficult. Some of
the climbs are not rated because they
haven’t been climbed enough times
to establish a rating. Some climbs are
classified as projects; this means a new
climb has been discovered and not yet
rated/named.
Recommended Climbs:
Climbs identified by a star (*) are recommended by the author.
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POWER BOX
BOULDERS
At the bottom of the switchbacks where the dirt road crosses the
north end of the pond are some big electric power boxes. Just southwest from the power boxes are a few boulders. These erratics are
the easiest to reach, which made them the subjects of early exploration in 2004, yielding some fun problems. There are other easier
problems here not mentioned below.
Switcheroo Boulder:
1. Bre Hammel
V? Climb up and right along the left
3. Tweedle Dee
V4* Low start in the scoop on the east
edge of the south face using crimps and
the left edge of the boulder.
side of the boulder by using a jug at the
lip of the scoop. Traverse up and left connecting with and finishing on #2.
2. Switcheroo
V2* Climb the right edge of the south
face using the right edge and with
crimps/edges on the face. Top out at the
apex of the boulder. This corner was the
first official boulder problem from ’04, a
classic.
4. Hairdresser on Fire
V5 This problem is located on the northeast corner of the boulder. Sit start. Pull
up to the lip where the overhang turns to
slab, then figure out a way onto and up
the slab to the top. Good luck!
Middle Boulders:
1. Circuit Breaker
V? Inside the cave-like feature formed
by the two overhanging boulders are several short sit start problems. Try to span
the gap from one boulder to the other!
Mother Board:
The southern-most erratic of the Power Box Boulders
1. Roll With It
V1/2 Climb the steep slab on the north
side of the boulder with liberal use of the
right trending sloping rail system that
cuts left to right across the face.
heather lords working the hairdresser on fire at the switcheroo boulder
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The Quarry
8. Through the Never
(project)
V? Underclings to half pad crimps.
Just southwest of the pond near the base of the dam is a long and
tiered hillside resembling a stone quarry. Many of these problems
are tall requiring adequate padding for the landings. Slabby to vertical and crimpy best describe the bouldering at the Quarry.
9. Killing of a Flash Boy
(project)
V?* Start with the left hand in the thin
long pull from the pocket to a small
Very, very, very difficult! Don’t fall off the edge followed by another long move to a
narrow horizontal shelf. Move a bit right
left side of the landing zone!
and top out. CLASSIC!
horizontal crack and either a crimp or,
if you can reach it, the pocket with your
right hand. Pull up to another shallow
pocket, followed by a big move to a sloping edge near the lip, then the lip itself.
Dam hard for just a few moves!
10. The Floor is Liquid
Nitrogen
11. Heather Slab
12. Lumber Jill
V1 A tall one! Follow a line of good
holds up the left side of this left facing
dihedral. Down climb the slab on the
backside of the dihedral.
13. Lumber Jack
V2 /V4* Sit start for the full V4 value!
Follow a line of campus board crimps
trending right to left on the face of the
di-hedral. SO GOOD!
diagram of the quarry: see explanation below
1. Hot Lava
V3* Start right hand in the pocket. Go
3.Not Cho Cheese
V1 Climb small crimps on this steep
up with liberal use of the left edge and
perhaps a dyno to the lip. Top out.
slab.
4. Cool Ranch
2.The Thing That Only Eats
V3 Can you figure this one out? Sit
start and follow the right edge of the
Hippies
V5* Located just left of the main Quar- Doritos Chip. Holds on #3 are off.
ry on the hill side. Look for an overhanging boulder with an obvious man made
landing zone below it. Start underneath
on the far right side. Pull onto the lip
and traverse left to the very apex of the
boulder, then mantle out. The big flat
top boulder under-neath is off.
18. Seven Deadly Sins
V4/V5* Climb the outside corner to
the right of #17 by using crimps to the
left and the corner itself. The crack and
anything right of the crack is off.
19. DirtyCrack
19b. Baby Steps
V? Just right of the Dirty Crack is a
slabby face with a protruding shelf near
the bottom. Crimps are the name of the
game for this dangerous tall problem.
*Beware of the shelf if you fall.
20. Sidewinder
V3 A super fun lip traverse on the right
side of the upper most boulder. When
viewed from below, this boulder looks
like the head of a rattlesnake.
21. Hang the DJ
V? A fun and unique problem. Climb
the wall under-neath the capstone;
reach the big hold on the face of the
capstone itself, then pull up and right
on big holds. Airy!
pads and a few spotters would be a
good idea for this one!
22. Dinosaur Jr
V? Chad Witbeck’s slabtastic master-
15. Vendetta
V1 Tall techy face climb. Start on #4
piece. Techy and thin!
then move right.
16. Sippin’ on Sunshine
V3 Fun slabby face climb to the right of
6. Biggy Slabs
V? Tall slab climb.
#15. Make sure you pad the tall block
on the right side of the landing zone!
crack. Not as easy as it looks.
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14. Bazooka Joe
V4* A classic outside corner. Multiple
5. Baby Slab
V0 Hike up the low angle slab.
7. Jack in the Crack
V2* Climb the obvious inside corner
17. Long Black Cadillac
V7* A hard move into the pocket. A
jennica hirrlinger climbing “lumber jill” at
the quarry
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Lilly’s boulder
Just down canyon from the Quarry and about twenty feet south
of the dirt road is Lilly’s Boulder. It’s the single erratic with a thin
seam cutting across its southwest face.
1. Joel’s Traverse
4. Simon Says
V3 Lip traverse from left to right ending V4 On right side of the southwest face,
at the big jug on the right corner (start
hold for Lilly’s Man-Child). This problem
is on the west side of the boulder next
to the dirt road.
Additionally, hang from the lip, heelhook, then try to mantle onto the slab
above! A laughable exercise to say the
least!
2. Lilly’s Man-Child
V6* Start on the big flat-topped west
start with an undercling on the bottom
side of the low roof. Pull straight up and
follow the right corner of the boulder up
to the apex. This was the first problem
on Lilly’s in ’04.
5. Lilly’s Mantle
V2/3* Same start as #2, but instead
of moving up and left, heel-hook and
mantle onto the shelf, then up. A very
cool mantle problem!
corner hold. Move up and right, traversing the top edge/rail of the southwest
face. Burly!
3. Sunset Seam
V? Open Project. Start as for #2, but
instead of moving up to the top rail,
traverse the thin seam cutting across
the southwest face.
starting up lily’s man child
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GOTHIC BOULDER
The Gothic Boulder sits high on the hillside directly south of Brad
Pit. It can be identified by a huge dark roof with an orange streak
on the headwall above. Also visible is the man-made stone landing
zone at the base of the boulder.
BRAD PIT
This is a small erratic boulder about 70 yards southwest of Lilly’s
on the southern edge of the gravel bar and is easily identified by
the small gravel pit underneath the east side of the boulder.
jennica hirrlinger is being spotted by heather lords.
dean lords hanging from the corner of the boulder with chad alldredge spotting him.
1. Bauhaus
V2/3 On the left side of the boulder,
climb crimps to big edges on the right
side of this left facing wall.
2. Bela Lugosi
V6* THE HIGHBALL of highballs. Bring
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multiple pads and spotters. Tricky start.
Undercling and toe cam in the back of
the roof. Make the span out to the good
rail along the lip of the boulder. Follow
the rail to the right corner and then go
up from there. Take care to not collapse
the edge of the landing zone.
1. Jennifer Aniston
2. Angelina Jolie
V2* Sit start down in the Pit and climb V2/3 Start on the far right side of the
out the left side of the overhang using
good holds.
overhang in a little nook. Traverse the
lip moving leftward to connect with #1.
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Driftwood
boulder
Walk the dirt road southwest from Lilly’s to where the ravine starts
on the left side of the road, just before the big cement pipes. Follow the ravine south until you reach a large boulder on the east
side with driftwood piled up around it.
cement pipe
Just south of the Cement Pipes, across the ravine is a small overhang with a white, west facing wall to its right.
1. Overhang
2. The White Wall
Flat top
Walk west from the Cement Pipe, either on the road or in the ravine. High on the hillside is an obvious flat topped boulder. This is
an obscure place with a couple of good, easy routes.
1. Flat Top Left
V1 Sit start right of the cave. Pull up
and over the small overhang on jugs.
Continue straight up to the top.
2. Flat Top Face
V1 Big jugs over a small overhang on
the north side (facing the river) of the
tier directly below the Flat Top Boulder.
3. Tree Surgeon
V? This is located below the Flat Top
climbing the tick
1. The Tick
V2/3 On the west side of the boulder.
Boulder near the edge of the wash. A
short problem hidden behind a tree.
Start low with the undercling and move
up and over the lip using pockets and
crimps.
Sit start. Move up and left to a big
ledge, then top out.
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steak boulder
This is the big boulder a few feet to the east of the Mothership. The
west side looks like a big raw steak complete with a nice marbling
effect!
The cheese wedge
Just east of the Big Dam Boulder/Chick Rock/Walrus cluster along
the base of the hillside is this obvious vertical wedge shaped boulder.
1.Chad Sr.
V3* Climb the right edge of the flat
and red west face next to the Mothership Boulder. Stand start with a shallow
pocket right hand and an edge/pocket/
crack thingy with your left hand. Move
up and right to the lip, then up and left
along the lip to the top of the boulder.
mothership
From the Cheese Wedge walk east past the Chamber and follow
the big water pipe until it disappears underground. Directly in front
of you is the Mothership.
1. Driving Rocketships
V2 Climb the southeast corner of the
5. Honest Abe
V3 Sit start near the bottom right side
boulder. Sit start using slopers. Pull up
and use good edges and a pocket to
reach the lip of the boulder.
of the cave. On the bottom lip, start with
a mono and a crimp. Go straight up.
2. Chad’s Traverse
V2 Start as for #1 and traverse right,
topping out at the apex of the boulder.
3. The Mothership
V?* This project is located on the underside of the huge overhung wall.
4. Alien
V? This project traverses the right side
of the overhang.
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6. Ufology
V2 A short problem with a compression start on the west corner of the
boulder.
the cheese wedge climbs
1. Goat Cheese
V2 Sit start using slanting edges and
3. Feta
V4 Sit start using a sloping rail 2’ right
crimps. Go straight up using similar
holds.
of Sakura. Go straight up using edges
and slopers. Holds from Sakura are off.
2. Sakura
V2* A classic arête problem! Sit start
4. The Big Cheese
V6* Same sit start as for Feta, but
using crimps, a thin foothold and a heel move up and right across the face to a
hook. Tic-tac up crimps on either side of side pull and big finish move to the lip.
the corner to the jug, then make some
5. Corey King (project)
big pulls to the top.
V? In the gap on the south side of the
wedge. Slanting edges and crimps to
jugs.
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THE CHAMBER
About 50 yards east of the Cheese Wedge in a little nook at the
base of the hillside is the Chamber. If you have reached the big,
exposed water pipe, you have gone too far.
heather lords and the chamber of secrets
1. Chamber of Secrets
V2/3 Start inside the nook and climb
3. Chambermaid
V8* One of the best boulder problems
the overhanging arête on the left side
of the Chamber. Near the lip of the
boulder, move left to a big jug on the
outside corner, then mantle out the top.
The back wall is off.
in the Lower Teton River Canyon, the
Chambermaid is more akin to the style
of bouldering found in the Southeastern
United States. Sit start with your left
hand on the inside rail and your right
hand low on the outside corner. Slopers,
2. Chambermaid Secrets
undercling, and difficult feet will get you
V? Climb #2 to the big sloper, then slap
up the overhanging wall to good edges
behind you and transition to and top out
above. The back wall and #1 boulder
on #1.
are off limits. Get yer suthern’ sloper
game on!
joe crane and sam perkins working on the chambermaid
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The Catacombs
Hike up and around the left side of San Callisto to reach the Crypt.
Take note to pad the back-breaking edge of the boulder below the
top-outs. A broken hold or an unexpected fall will send you backfirst onto this edge. Take it seriously.
The Crypt:
1. Ditch Digger
V3 Sit start on the left edge of the
3. Rocket From the Crypt
V2* Start on the far right edge of the
face. A straight up line that connects
and finishes with #3.
wall by using the big horn/jug feature.
Climb big edges up and left across the
face to a big flat topped plate feature.
Then, make a big pull straight up to
finger buckets and top out with style.
2. Scream, Dracula Scream
V 3/4* Sit start in the middle of the
wall using two crimps below a small
roof. Pull up and right to a good edge,
then back left, connecting with #3 for
a couple of holds. At mid-height, make
a long move up and right to an obvious
thin brick like edge below the lip. Go
straight up from there!
The Lower Catacombs:
1. San Callisto
V9* Start at the very back of the
4. The Coffin Lid
V5 This is a cool lip traverse! Start
feature using the undercling. Pinch
and slap your way out the roof to better
holds above the lip. The boulders to the
right are off.
underneath on the big block. Pull out to
a big jug over the lip and either campus
left along the lip or use your feet. Get to
the left corner and go up! Pad the big
edge under the left corner.
2. (Open PROJECT)
3. (RILEY EVERETT ROLLINS
PROJECT)
lower catacombs with the crypt in the background
starting on the coffin lid
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CHICK ROCKS
The main Chick Rock erratic is on the east end of The Big Dam
Boulder. The Little Chick Rock is the small erratic to the left of
Chick Rock.
1. Little Chick Rock
V0/2 Sit start and climb jugs up this
3. It’s Not Easy Being a Hobbit
V3 100 feet north toward the dirt road
short over-hung boulder.
from Chick Rocks is this single boulder
problem. On the north side is a short
roof/lip problem. Start deep in the hole.
Use holds under the roof to move out to
the lip. Traverse the lip and top out.
2. Chick Rock North Face
V0 A fun boulder for beginners. You
can climb the left edge, the center of
the face, or the right edge on the north
side of the boulder. All are about the
same difficulty.
on it!
monly #5.
6. Just Another Dam Sit Start 7. The Big Dam Pump
V3* Low sit start on the slanting rail by V? Start on the far right side of the
matching hands and using a heel hook. south face (next to the Walrus Boulder).
Move up to the big pocket then traverse Traverse left along the lip and top out
left using edges and pockets below the as for #6.
lip. Top out with #3, #4, or most com-
THE BIG DAM
BOULDER
1. Left Side Love Handles
3b. Variation Love Nation
V3* Low sit start near the little “cave.” V? Start as with #3, but go straight up
Climb slopers and good holds along the the corner connecting to and finishing
edge of the boulder all the way around with #4.
the nose and topping out on #3.
2. Love, Hate, Love
V2 Sit start using an in-cut edge and a
4. Dam Nation
V6* Start as with #5, but move left
using shallow pockets. Reach the corner
and follow it to the top. HARD.
smooth pocket. A big dyno to the highest jug on #3, then up to the lip and top
5. Dam the Man
out.
V3* Sit start using a large in-cut edge
on the left side of an inside corner.
3. Love Handles
V2* Sit start using the vertical pocket Move straight up to a pocket, again on
on the right side of the obvious corner. the left side of the corner. Then make a
BIG move up to good edges and mantle
Pull up and onto the left trending jug
out the top. Pad the rock behind the
rail. Top out in the “V” notch.
route. If you blow the crux you’ll land
22
the big dam boulder and surrounding erratics offer the highest concentration of diversity in
style and difficulty in the lower teton canyon.
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The Walrus
The Walrus is the big erratic next to the Big Dam Boulder on its
south side.
the walrus and the carpenter
diagram of the walrus: see explanation below
1. The Walrus
V1 Start low using crimps, moving
upward to pockets. Then right onto the
slab before reaching the top.
2. Snake Eyes
V4* AWESOME! Sit start far right with
hands in the horizontal crack. Move
up and left, following the sloping rail
system. Make a hard move from the
sloping rail into two side by side pockets
(snake eyes) and then continue up from
there.
Problems 3 and 4 are located just
around the corner to the right from #2
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on the flat, vertical, south side.
3. The Walrus and the
Carpenter
V2* Start with the two side by side finger pockets on the left side of the south
face. Pull to the lip and traverse right,
topping out at the apex.
4. Grace Under Water
V3/4 HARD sit start. Climb the right
corner of the face to jugs leading up
and left. Top out at the apex. The boulder to the right is off.
Aromatherapy
Located just south and west of the Walrus boulder at the base of the
hillside; these problems face east.
1. Justin B.
Project
2. Aromatherapy
V? A short corner problem on the right
edge of the east face.
25
Slabtastic
Boulder
3. Cave Man
V? Start as for #4. At the lip of the
4. Wedgie
V2/3 Start in the cave and follow
cave, move left onto the back side of
the Slabtastic Boulder and then up the
corner to the apex for the top-out.
edges on the right wall to the lip of the
cave. Continue up and right, likely wedging yourself between the boulder you’re
on and the back side of the Slabtastic
Boulder.
Sponsors:
chad alldredge climbing “the edge of left”
1. The Edge of Left
V5* This problem ascends the narrow
right edge and when you can reach it,
the left edge near the top.
east face of the Slabtastic Boulder.
Start by using holds just left of the right
edge. Go up with liberal use of the right
edge and some small crimps in the
center of the face. Continue to milk the
2. Slabtastic Face
V? Do you dare? Make sure you have a
few spotters when you come rocketing
down this lichen-covered face and off
the back edge of the landing zone!
Slabtastic West Side:
26
1. Chocolate Eruption
V2/V3 This problem follows the right
2. Savoir Faire
V6 Sit start on the right edge of the
side rail of the Slabtastic Boulder. Stand
start using a jug. Move up and right
along the rail by staying on the west
side of it, topping out at the apex.
west face. Pull up and move left to a
crimp, bump to a sloper at the lip above.
High step and reach far right to another
tiny crimp before more slopers up the
right corner to the boulder’s apex!
27
Climbs by Rating
V3
V0
Hot Lava—The Quarry (pg 8)
Baby Slab—The Quarry (pg 8)
Cool Ranch—The Quarry (pg 8)
Little Chick Rock—Chick Rocks (pg 22)
Sippin’ on Sunshine—The Quarry (pg 9)
Chick Rock North Face—Chick Rocks (pg 22)
Sidewinder—The Quarry (pg 9)
V1
Joel’s Traverse—Lilly’s Boulder (pg 11)
Bauhaus—Gothic Boulder (pg 12)
Not Cho cheese—The Quarry (pg 8)
Angelina Jolie—Brad Pit (pg 13)
Lumber Jill—The Quarry (pg 9)
The Tick—Driftwood Boulder (pg 14)
Vendetta—The Quarry (pg 9)
Chad Sr.—Steak Boulder (pg 16)
Flat Top Left—Flat Top (pg 15)
Honest Abe—Mothership (pg 16)
Flat Top Face—Flat Top (pg 15)
Chamber of Secrets—The Chamber (pg 18)
The Walrus—The Walrus (pg 24)
Ditch Digger—The Catacombs (pg 21)
Scream, Dracula Scream—The Catacombs (pg 21)
V2
It’s Not Easy Being A Hobbit—Chick Rocks (pg 22)
Switcheroo—Powerbox Boulder (pg 7)
Left Side Love Handles—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 22)
Roll with It—Mother Board (pg 7)
Lumber Jack—The Quarry (pg 9)
Hairdresser on Fire—Switcheroo Boulder (pg 7)
The Thing That Only Eats Hippies—The Quarry (pg 8)
Seven Deadly Sins—The Quarry (pg 9)
The Coffin Lid—The Catacombs (pg 21)
The Edge of Left—Slabstastic Boulder (pg 26)
Lilly’s mantle—Lilly’s Boulder (pg 11)
Roll With It—Powerbox Boulder (pg 7)
Jack in the Crack—The Quarry (pg 8)
V5
Dam the Man—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 22)
Just Another Dam Sit Start—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 23)
Lilly’s Mantle—Lilly’s Boulder (pg 11)
Bauhaus—Gothic Boulder (pg 12)
Jennifer Aniston—Brad Pit (pg 13)
Angelina Jolie—Brad Pit (pg 13)
The Tick—Driftwood Boulder (pg 14)
Driving Rocketships—Mothership (pg 16)
Chad’s Travers—Mothership (pg 16)
Ufology—Mothership (pg 16)
Chamber of Secrets—The Chamber (pg 18)
Goat Cheese—The Cheese Wedge (pg 17)
Sakura—The Cheese Wedge (pg 17)
Rocket From the Crypt—The Catacombs (pg 21)
Little Chick Rock—Chick Rocks (pg 22)
Love, Hate, Love—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 22)
Grace Under Water—The Walrus (pg 24)
Chocolate Eruption— Slabtastic West Side (pg 26)
Wedgie—Slabtastic West Side (pg 27)
V4
Tweedle Dee—Switcheroo Boulder (pg 7)
V6
Lilly’s Man-Child—Lilly’s Boulder (pg 11)
Bela Lugosi—Gothic Boulder (pg 12)
The Big Cheese—The Cheese Wedge (pg 17)
Dam Nation—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 22)
Savoir Faire—Slabtastic West Side (pg 26)
V7
Long Black Cadillac—The Quarry (pg 9)
V8
Chambermaid—The Chamber (pg 18)
V9
San Callisto—The Catacombs (pg 21)
Projects
Lumber Jack—The Quarry (pg 9)
Through the Never—The Quarry (pg 9)
Bazooka Joe—The Quarry (pg 9)
Killing of a Flash Boy—The Quarry (pg 9)
Seven Deadly Sins—The Quarry (pg 9)
Corey King—The Cheese Wedge (pg 17)
Simon Says—Lilly’s Boulder (pg 11)
Justin B. Project—Aromatherapy (pg 25)
Snake Eyes—The Walrus (pg 24)
Feta—The Cheese Wedge (pg 17)
Scream, Dracula Scream—The Catacombs (21)
Grace Under Water—The Walrus (pg 24)
Love Handles—The Big Dam Boulder (pg 22)
The Walrus and the Carpenter—The Walrus (pg 24)
Chocolate Eruption—Slabtastic West Side (pg 26)
Wedgie—Slabtastic West Side (pg 27)
28
29

A Dam Bouldering Guide

Transcription

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