- erik forrest jackson
Transcription
- erik forrest jackson
Shopping I Design I Trave l I Entertaining I Fo o d I Giƒts I Sites Liƒe&Home VIVA ITAL IA! Wel as wcome to e Tusc visit BaItaly! Tag lth a a part n villa, hi azar Gelong y, an t tty’s aV past a. Nod perfec ersace why w we k t our i la dot’s callednow lce v ita “Rome is a great shopping city—so romantic and really charming— plus it has the world’s best pizza!” —Stylesetter EVA JEANBART-LORENZOTTI, who takes us shopping in the Eternal City FABIO THIAN Oc t / 2 0 0 7 / I n S t y l e 463 Jump Start CIAMPINI Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, 011 39 06 68 76 606 Coffee and a sweet start the day. “You feel like you’re in a postcard,” says Lorenzotti of this charming café, where she orders a caffè corto robusto (a strong single espresso) and a warm cornetto (a sweet, croissantlike pastry). You can linger over breakfast since late morning is the best time to start shopping (most stores open at 10 or 11); wear comfortable shoes for the cobblestoned streets and a simple outfit if you’ll be trying on clothes. 10:00 10:30 Shoe Stop GENTE Via Frattina, 011 39 06 67 89 132 Just off the Piazza di Spagna, this two-floor boutique features big brands, from Prada to Nike, as well as interesting niche Italian designers you won’t find elsewhere—Lorenzotti’s fave designer, Maurizio Pecoraro, for example. “The selection here is more modern and sophisticated than the typical flamboyant Italian look,” she says. Liƒe & Home When inRome... Shop! Jeanbart-Lorenzotti in Piazza di Spagna written by ERIK JACKSON Here’s the ultimate insider’s guide from stylesetter EVA JEANBART-LORENZOTTI, creator of luxury catalogue Vivre. We’ve got her favorite shops and hot spots, plus all you need to know—whether you’re counting your euros or splurging on a grand tour photographed by FABIO THIAN 480 Oc t / 2007 / In Style Rare Finds ERMANNO SCERVINO Via Borgognona 29, 011 39 06 69 20 06 87; ermanno scervino.it Scervino’s beautifully embroidered wares and fab dresses, featherweight down coats and handwoven leather bags, are rarely found in the U.S. so make time to experience what Lorenzotti calls works of art. 11:15 11:00 Best Costume Jewelry BOZART Via Bocca di Leone 4, 011 39 06 69 38 02 53; bozart.it Expect big beads, pearls, stones, glass and metal pieces at this statement-making costumejewelry favorite. “There’s nowhere in the world for shopping for jewelry like Rome,” says Lorenzotti, trying on a gold-plated cuff ($260). “The craftsmanship is unbelievable.” Extended vacation! 20 more of the best places to go in Rome at instyle.com/rome Oct / 2007 / In Style 481 Liƒe & Home Style Guide Made to Order ANDRE LAUG Via della Croce 77, 011 39 06 67 80 006; andrelaug.com This appoint- ment-only atelier creates couture quality garments on a mannequin built to each customer’s measurements. Here, Lorenzotti sizes up her new silk shirt with rhinestone buttons ($825). Luxury Linens BELLORA Viale del Vignola 19, 011 39 06 32 11 064; bellora .com Celebrated bed- 12:30 1:15 Flea Markets Lorenzotti loves mercatos for their dolce vita ambience as much as their varied shopping (but beware: Thieves love them too, so keep your bags close to you). ding, tablecloths and sleepwear in subdued colors. “I buy my kids pajamas here,” says Lorenzotti, who also adores the waffle-weave robes and bath towels. 1:45 Porta Portese Viale Trastevere; Sundays, 5 A.M.–1 P.M. One of the larger Roman markets, it’s also the best, says Lorenzotti. Find silver, antiques, leather goods, watches, cuff links, drawings and frames. Mercato della Stampe Piazza Fontanella di Borghese; Mon. to Sat., 7 A.M.– 1 P.M. Discover anything to do with paper here, from books, prints and maps to stamps and magazines—all great for framing. Campo de’ Fiori Piazza Campo de’ Fiori; 7 A.M.–1 P.M. A great food market and also a real local hangout—grab a snack (prosciutto, cheese, garlic-stuffed olives) and settle in for some people-watching. 482 Oc t / 2007 / In Style Grab Bag MERCATO DI VIA SANNIO Via Sannio This colorful flea market’s wide range of wares typically includes striped straw bags ($20–$25), espadrilles in all colors (around $13), and thin cotton tanks (around $10) that are “almost like lingerie,” says Lorenzotti. You’ll also find everything from kids shoes to cheese, meat and olives. “Mercatos are a way of life in Rome,” she says. “There’s always something good.” Open daily from 8 A.M. to 1 P.M. Extended vacation! 20 more of the best places to go in Rome at instyle.com/rome Liƒe & Home Style Guide 2:30 Rome’s Colette TAD Via del Babuino 155, 011 39 06 32 69 51 31; taditaly.com This hip, eclectic emporium covers the Quick Bite CAFFE ROSATI whole stylish-lifestyle spectrum. Great fashion (Chloé, Marc Jacobs) rubs shoulders with high-design home and garden accessories, bath and body products, jewelry and even CDs. It’s the ideal place to find gifts for friends back home, plus there’s a café! stars and directors during Italian cinema’s heyday in the late fifties and early sixties, this elegant art nouveau eatery still draws a fascinating crowd for classic dishes like caprese salad (mozzarella and tomato). 4:00pm Piazza del Popolo 4, 011 39 06 32 25 859 The gathering place for movie 3:30 4:00 Pint-Size Fashion PURE GOLD Via del Babuino 150, 011 39 06 32 35 464 Snap up “mod, sophisticated and charming” clothing for boys and girls at this airy boutique. Floral print dresses ($255) and cute, reversible bathing suits ($120) hang from painted branches beneath dangling crystals and ribbons. Bonus: the linen shopping bag with the gold-tone-chain handle; your daughter will love it as a tote. Eva’s Shopping Tips What to buy Treat yourself to the best of Italy’s meticulous craftsmanship in jewelry, fabrics, silver and especially leather goods, from expertly made fitted gloves to simple sandals to over-the-top heels and boots. What not to buy Nix wine (you can buy a bottle anywhere today); don’t purchase a watch unless it’s an antique (great watch stores are in every city); only buy fragile glassware if you’re sure it can be shipped safely. To ship or not to ship Use store shipping services for anything too heavy or awkward to pack or carry home. Securely stow jewelry and other small valuable items in your carry-on bags. Get your tax back Take advantage of the IVA, a refund of sales tax on items totalling more than 155 euros (around $200) per retailer. Take a form from the store and submit it at the airport, where your goods will be inspected and your refund issued (visit globalrefund.com for more info). “It can be quite a lot of money if you’re a shopper like me!” says Lorenzotti. 484 Oc t / 2007 / In Style 4:30 Artful Pick-Me-Up CANOVA TADOLINI Via del Babuino 150 A/B, 011 39 06 32 11 0702 Get a caffeine jolt and nibble on complimentary hors d’oeuvres, like fried olives and truffles on toast, at this museumlike café filled with paintings and sculptures. Extended vacation! 20 more of the best places to go in Rome at instyle.com/rome Liƒe & Home Style Guide 5:30 6:00 Keepsake LA BOTTEGA DEL MARMORARO Via Margutta 53B, 011 39 06 32 076 60 Get your street For Material Girls LELLI Via Margutta 5, 011 39 06 36 14 0 00 address, family name or anything you wish inscribed on a gorgeous marble slab ($10 and up). This funky home-fabric emporium, on a street that was once home to Federico Fellini, features every possible color and pattern. The off-the-wall home décor items and boldly eccentric accessories include this quirky purse, made from vintage handpainted canvas finished with leather ($175). 6:30 7:30 Mission Accomplished Cart your finds home on an easy-to-handle scooter; reserve in advance ($50/day, trenoescooter.191.it). Home Run MASTRO RAPHAEL Piazza Montecitorio 116, 011 39 06 69 20 06 32 Known for its striking furniture, linens and home décor, all hand-painted and embellished by Raphaël himself. Coral and fish motifs abound, as well as these exuberantly patterned Florentine-inspired glasses ($110 each), which, says Lorenzotti, “would be great as colorful accents on a white or neutral table.” Eva’s Favorite Spots Sant’Eustachio Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82, 011 39 06 68 80 2048. “Best espresso in Rome,” says Lorenzotti. Café Riccioli Piazza delle Coppelle 10A; 011 39 06 68 21 03 13. A great lunch spot; go for the ultrafresh, Italian-style sashimi. Roscioli Via dei Giubbonari 21; 011 39 06 68 75 287. One of the oldest and best wine bars in Rome; selection of 200 wines. Said Chocolate Factory Via Tiburtina 135; 011 39 06 44 69 204. This sweet cocoa-centric spot is a must; order the famous white pizza that you dip in homemade hot fudge. 486 Oc t / 2007 / In Style Dal Bolognese Piazza del Popolo 1-2, 011 39 06 36 11 426. This “quintessential Roman restaurant” boasts amazing pastas and great people-watching. Lorenzotti favors the misto di pasta: four types of pasta—each with a different sauce. Portrait Suites Via Bocca di Leone 23; lungarno hotels.com. Chic townhouse hotel owned by the Ferragamo family with 14 luxurious suites (about $650/night). Hotel Locarno Via della Penna 22; hotellocarno.com. Popular with fashion’s elite; just steps from the Piazza del Popolo. Request a room in the refurbished wing (from $320/night); enjoy rooftop breakfasts and complimentary bicycles. Extended vacation! 20 more of the best places to go in Rome at instyle.com/rome