Gyeongju - Templestay

T
he marks of ancient history are never
far away in Gyeongju, ready to be
discovered by explorers on foot or bicycle.
You can find royal burial mounds dressed in
green turf in the ancient city’s environs, and
exquisite stone structures scattered all over
the city bear testimony to Silla’s technical
mastery of working in stone. The whole city
is a ‘roofless museum,’ listed in the UNESCO
World Heritage List as Gyeongju Historic
Areas in December 2000 and elected as one
of Korea’s top eight historical sites in 2011.
The World Heritage designation attests to the
exceptional significance the world ascribes to
the remarkable concentration of sites and
monuments in this area.
Templestay
2012 Summer Vol. 02
Gyeongju: The Silla Kingdom’s Long-Cherished
Dream of a Buddha-Land Realized on Earth
Seokguram Grotto & Bulguksa Temple
Invitation to a Mountain Hermitage
Contents
The mountain is green, and the cloud is white,
Ever free from delusions or defilements
Seated in the midst of this,
A traveler is set free from all discriminating thoughts.
3
Seon poem by Master Seosan
Gyeongju :
The Silla Kingdom’s Long-Cherished Dream
of a Buddha-Land Realized on Earth
Seokguram Grotto, Bulguksa Temple
14
14
Bulguksa Daily Templestay
This is it! This is what I wanted to show you!
22
25
29
34
Dharma Talk-2
Buddhism is Helpful to Golfers Come and
29
join Templestay while in Korea
18
Visit to Gyeongju
33
Cartoon
Attractions around Bulguksa
Happiness is right beside you...
34
The Emotion of Korea
Ferocious Appearances Full of Emotions
– The Four Guardian Kings
22
Temple Food
Seasonal Vegetable’s Secret Magic for
Soothing the Summer Heat
25
Dharma Talk-1
Samulnori shocked my soul. It led me to
Korea and then, to Buddhism
36
Where to Experience Templestay
16 Selected Temples for Foreigners
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Gyeongju:
The Silla Kingdom’s Long-Cherished
Dream of a Buddha-Land
Realized on Earth
Templestay Magazine
2012 Summer Vol. 02
Templestay
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Text by
Published by
Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism
71 Gyeonji–dong (56 Woojeongkuk–ro), Jongno–gu, Seoul, 110–170, South Korea
Tel: +82. 2. 2031. 2000
E-mail: support@templestay.com
Copyright © 2012 Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism. All rights reserved.
Registeration No. 010110-08-2012-058
A
dynastic capital city for a millennium, Gyeongju is a rich repository of history and has been designated as a
World Heritage site by UNESCO. Explorers encounter remains still bearing the glory of the Silla Kingdom and are
overwhelmed by the wide spectrum of architectural and spiritual achievements. The magnificent Bulguksa Temple,
Seokguram Grotto, and the royal tombs represent the golden age of this mysterious kingdom. Let’s go and feel the living
breath of ancient Korea in Gyeongju
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Seokguram Grotto & Bulguksa Temple
in Gyeongju, a 1,000-year lasted city of ancient mystery and majesty
Gyeongju served as a dynastic capital for nearly a thousand years. Only a handful of
cities in the world can make a similar claim, such as Kyoto in Japan and Rome in Italy.
Established as the capital in BC 57 by Park Hyeokgeose, the founder of the Silla dynasty,
Gyeongju did not relinquish its position as capital until the fall of the dynasty in 935.
Gyeongju was the heart of the ancient Silla, which saw the flowering of the arts such
as architecture, painting and crafts. Silla metalwork in particular produced some of
the finest metal objects the world has ever seen. Silla sought international trade and
cultural exchange and opened itself to influences from abroad.
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The marks of ancient history are never far away in Gyeongju, ready to be discovered by
explorers on foot or bicycle. You can find royal burial mounds dressed in green turf in
the ancient city’s environs, and exquisite stone structures scattered all over the city bear
testimony to Silla’s technical mastery of working in stone. The whole city is a ‘roofless
museum,’ listed in the UNESCO World Heritage List as Gyeongju Historic Areas in
December 2000 and elected as one of Korea’s top eight historical sites in 2011. The
World Heritage designation attests to the exceptional significance the world ascribes to
the remarkable concentration of sites and monuments in this area.
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“
Gyeongju served as a dynastic
capital nearly a thousand years. Only a
handful of cities in the world can make
a similar claim, such as Kyoto in Japan
and Rome in Italy...
”
Cheomseongdae
Seated Stone Buddha
of Samneung
Three major components (or ‘belts’) make up the Gyeongju Historic Areas, in addition
to the sites of the remains of Hwangnyongsa Temple, Bunhwangsa Temple, and the
Myeonhwal Sanseong Fortress. Wolseong Belt lies across central Gyeongju; the main
monuments are the palace site of Wolseong, the Gyerim woodland, the royal tomb of
King Naemul, and the Cheomseongdae Observatory. Mount Namsan Belt is the area
in and around the sacred mountain of Namsan. There are a large number of Buddhist
buildings, sculptures, and other monuments. Tumuli Park Belt consists mainly of
three groups of gigantic royal tombs, including the royal tomb of King Michu.
Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple, the first UNESCO World Heritage sites in
Gyeongju, are the two best-known symbols of Silla’s Buddhist cultural achievements in
the region. Besides, there were nine Buddhist temples in Gyeongju which bore the seal
of royal patronage, indicated by Chinese Character 皇 (read hwang, it means emperor)
in their names. Bunhwangsa Temple and Hwangnyongsa Temple belong to this royal
category.
Myeonhwal Sanseong
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Royal tomb of King Michu
Bunhwangsa
Construction of Hwangnyongsa Temple, famed for its brass Jangryukjonsang(Buddha
statue, over six meters) and nine-story wooden pagoda, began in 553 and was completed
in 645. According to legend, the site had originally been intended for a palace, but the
appearance of a yellow dragon identifies the land for the construction of a temple. The
temple burnt to the ground in 1238 during the Mongol invasion. Only the immense
site remains, bearing sole witness to the glories of the past’s brilliant achievements.
Established in 634 by Queen Seondeok, the first woman in Korea to hold the throne,
Bunhwangsa Temple has maintained its heritage to this day, withstanding the trials
of time and disasters of wars. The delicate perfume of the queen still lingers in the
atmosphere, as its name indicates. The temple’s best known treasure is Mojeonseoktap
(National Treasure No. 30), a pagoda constructed with brick-shaped stones.
Mount Namsan, one of the five mountains sacred to Silla, forms a major axis in
Gyeongju Historic Areas, and is brimming with a treasure trove of Buddhist relics.
Standing guard over the east of Gyeongju is Mount Toham, which was also venerated
by the people of Silla as a place for making offerings to heaven. Mount Toham was
also called Mount Dongsan, literally meaning “East Mountain,” because of its location
relative to Gyeongju. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple are located on the
south-eastern slope of Mount Toham.
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Dabotap
The realization of a Buddha-land in the mundane world was a long-cherished dream
in Silla, and the people of Silla believed that their kingdom was itself the realm of
the Buddha. Even the name, Bulguksa, literally means the Buddha-Land Temple.
Bulguksa’s ground was partitioned and designed to represent the layout of celestial
Buddhist abodes. Bulguksa Temple is an ambitious architectural work through which
Silla expressed its vision of a Buddha-land. Bulguksa Temple is embellished with
masterful stonework, such as the two stone pagodas of Dabotap and Seokgatap and
the beautiful stone bridges of Cheongun and Baegun (Bridge of Blue Clouds/ Bridge
of White Clouds). At the heart of Bulguksa Temple in its main courtyard are Dabotap
and Seokgatap, whose contrast creates a sublime beauty.
reliquaries enshrined within Dabotap disappeared when it was dismantled for repair in
1925 during Japanese rule. No record regarding the dismantlement of 1925 was left
behind, and one of the four stone lions guarding the pagoda at each of its four corners
was also lost at around the time of dismantlement and remains missing to this day.
Paired with Dabotap, Seokgatap has simple, clean, and bold lines and a neat and
restrained style. Designated as National Treasure 21, Seokgatap is a classic example of
the stone pagoda of the Unified Silla period. Records show that Seokgatap was damaged
by earthquake and restored twice in 1024 and 1038. The pagoda was heavily damaged
by grave robbers in 1966 but in the course of repairing the damages, extraordinary
Buddhist relics were found in the second level. Noteworthy relics include the Mugu
jeonggwang dae darani-gyeong (Great Dharani Sutra of Immaculate and Pure Light,
National Treasure No. 126), a paper scroll. Dated to the 8th century, this is the oldest
extant sutra printed from carved wooden blocks in the world.
Dabotap, designated as National Treasure No. 20, is a unique design of consummate
execution and refined beauty, without peer in all of East Asia. Exquisite and intricate,
subtle yet structurally balanced, Dabotap has an unusual style, based on ancient
wooden pagodas, of which no example remains in Korea today. Sarira and sarira
The tragic love story of the stone mason Asadal from Baekje and his wife Asanyeo has
been passed down to the present generation. Legend has it that Asanyeo went to Silla
looking for Asadal, who was dispatched to Silla to build Seokgatap three years previous.
However, because craftsmen were forbidden to have contact with women until the
Bulguksa Temple, an earthly Buddha-land in the mundane world,
formed with deep filial piety
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“
The realization of a Buddha-land in the
mundane world was a long-cherished dream
in Silla, and the people of Silla believed that
their kingdom was itself the realm of the
Buddha. Even the name, Bulguksa, literally
means the Buddha-Land Temple.
Bridge of Blue Clouds and Bridge of White Clouds
pagoda was completed, a monk told Ansanyeo to wait at a small lake near the temple
whose surface would reflect the pagoda’s image when it was finished. After some time,
despairing of ever being reunited with Asadal, Asanyeo committed suicide by throwing
herself into the lake. Learning of her death only after Seokgatap was completed, Asadal
carved the image of Asanyeo on a rock face near the lake and jumped into the lake,
following his beloved wife. Asadal and Asanyeo’s poignant story gives Seokgatap its
second name, Muyeongtap, “the pagoda with no reflection.”
The four stone bridges of Bulguksa Temple are also masterpieces of Buddhist art. On
the east side of the temple compound, Cheongun and Baegun (Bridge of Blue Clouds
and Bridge of White Clouds) are designated as National Treasure No. 23, while on the
west side Yeonhwa and Chilbo (Bridge of Lotus Flowers and Bridge of Seven Treasures)
are National Treasure No. 22.
”
Stupa
The bridges of Bulguksa Temple are no ordinary bridges crossing a river or stream.
Connecting the main Buddha hall, which is the realm of the Buddha, and the Jaha
Gate, the entrance from the mundane world, Cheongun and Baegun look more like
stairs than bridges. The seventeen steps of upper Cheongun and sixteen steps of lower
Baegun make up a total of thirty-three steps, symbolizing the Heaven of 33 Celestials
(Tushita Heaven), the abode of the Buddha.
Yeonhwa and Chilbo connect the Paradise Hall with the Anyang Gate and are
symbolically used by enlightened beings residing in the Buddhist paradise. Yeonhwa
and Chilbo closely resemble their counterparts in the eastern portion of the temple, but
are distinguished by the engravings of lotus flowers in relief and on a reduced scale, and
consist of ten and eight steps each.
All the wooden components of Bulguksa Temple were destroyed by fire in 1593 during
the Japanese invasions of Korea. Bulguksa as we see it today is the result of a series of
restorations done from 1805 on forty separate occasions. There are three different
theories regarding when and by whom the temple was founded. The earliest date is
in the 5th century when Master Ado, who introduced Buddhism to Silla for the first
time, also built a temple. Another theory is that the temple was commissioned in 528
by King Beopheung to honor the wishes of his mother Madam Yeongje. The third
possible founder is the Prime Minister Kim Daeseong, who carried out an order of
King Gyeongduk in 751. According to the History of Bulkuksa Temple, the official
records of the events that took place at the temple, it was founded by Master Ado (阿
道和尙) and then later restored and expanded by the Prime Minister Kim Daeseong.
Lotus flowers in relief
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The grotto consists of a rectangular antechamber, a corridor, and a main rotunda. There
are two octagonal stone pillars, one on either side of the entrance to the main rotunda,
connected by a stone arch overhead. Added by the Japanese in the 1910s during the
deconstruction and subsequent restoration, this arch blocks the nimbus and the upper
part of the Buddha statue from view. The domed ceiling used an unprecedented and
ingenious technique for its construction. More than 360 dressed stone slabs come
together at another carved lotus flower consisting of twenty-eight stones at the top of
the main hall, symbolizing the celestial sphere. The dome is divided into three sections,
each of which consists of nine layers,
in order to keep the quoin, the central building block at the top of a vault, firmly in
place. In East Asian cosmology, nine is the ultimate number signifying perfection,
while the number three represents heaven, earth and people.
The main Buddha statue in Seokguram Grotto
Seokguram Grotto, a temple of ancient mystery
If you kneel down in front of the main Buddha statue in Seokguram Grotto and gaze
upon his face, a large circular lotus flower set in the wall behind the main Buddha
creates the illusion of a nimbus around the Buddha’s head. Shin Yeonghun, a master
carpenter specializing in traditional Korean architecture who was involved in the repair
of Seokguram in the 1960s, wrote in his book Seokguram, “Draw a line connecting
the first two of the Eight Guardian Deities on either wall of the antechamber and stand
right in the middle. Offer a prostration to the Buddha, rise, and gaze up at the face of
the Buddha. Only then can one perceive the halo of light circling the Buddha.” The
structure of Seokguram Grotto is so precisely aligned that even a slight change in the
viewer’s angle was calculated to create a perfect spiritual experience.
ⓒYang, Byung Joo www.zenphoto.kr
Devas
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Construction of Seokguram Grotto began in 751 by Prime Minister Kim Daeseong
and was completed in 774. It is recorded that it was originally known as Seokbulsa
Temple. It is built of white granite and features thirty-eight engravings of bodhisattvas,
devas, the disciples of the Buddha, and Vajradhara and the guardian deities in relief
on the main wall with the principal sculpture of the Buddha in the center. There were
originally forty figures carved into the wall, but two are now missing.
The Eight Guardian Deities are carved in relief on the walls of the rectangular
antechamber, four on either side. Two Vajradhara figures stand on either side of the
entrance to the corridor leading from the antechamber to the main rotunda. The Four
Guardian Kings are carved in pairs on either side of the corridor. The floor of the
antechamber is paved with broad stone slabs, which provide subtle illumination to the
interior by reflecting light.
The walls to the left and right of the entrance are covered with relief images of two
devas, two bodhisattvas and the ten disciples. In the middle of the rounded wall behind
the main Buddha, there is an exquisite wall carving of an eleven-faced Avalokitesvara
Bodhisattva. The carvings of Buddhist figures depict the faces and garments in great
detail, providing a realistic portrayal of the lives of Silla people. The grotto is sealed
with a glass panel for conservation purpose. The half-closed eyes of the main Buddha
gaze towards the East Sea. Subtle light illuminates the face of the Buddha, accentuating
the gentleness and compassion of his expression. The main Sakyamuni Buddha figure
is 3.26m high.
The Seokguram Buddha, designated as the National Treasure No. 24, embodies an
ideal beauty and is recognized as one of the finest examples of Buddhist sculpture in
eastern Asia. Its layout is an organic blend of architecture, mathematics, geometry,
physics, astronomy, religion, and art, and succeeds in unifying all these elements into
a seamless whole. There was a small five-story marble stupa in front of the figure of
Avalokitesvara, but it disappeared during the Japanese colonial period after the second
Superintendent Sone Araske toured the site in 1909. The Japanese government has
admitted that Sone removed the stupa, but its whereabouts are still unknown.
ⓒYang, Byung Joo www.zenphoto.kr
Disciples of the Buddha
ⓒYang, Byung Joo www.zenphoto.kr
Eleven-faced
Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva
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Bulguksa Daily Templestay
This is it! This is what I wanted
to show you!
Sharing Korean Culture with Friends from Abroad
Bulguksa Daily Templestay: A glimpse into the essence of Korean Buddhist Culture
M
y name is Jae-hong Kim, and I am a healthy, young, 32 year-old Korean man. Ever since I returned to
Korea after studying abroad for a long time in the United States I have missed the friends that I met there.
I wanted to give them an opportunity to experience Korean culture, just as I had experienced theirs while living
in their country; at last I invited them to Korea. I thought over and over about what I should show them that
would best represent traditional Korean culture. I finally decided on Gyeongju, as I thought that the capital
city of the ancient Silla Kingdom would provide bountiful, ready access to a rich trove of traditional cultural
resources. And voila, I was right! The Bulguksa daily templestay program was quite satisfactory and it proved
that I had made the right decision.
When Sam and Kristina Smith and I arrived
in Gyeongju, we went right away to Bulguksa
Temple. Bulguksa and Seokguram Grotto
are the crowning symbols of Korean culture
and both of them have been listed as World
Heritage sites by UNESCO. The temple
runs a daily templestay program for foreigner
visitors, which offers basic activities that let
one experience Korean Buddhist culture in a
relatively concentrated way. Considering our
short itinerary, it was the best option for us.
We put on the temple vest and sat facing the
monk. While he made tea for us, he broke the
ice with stories about the temple. The monk
handled the tea in a very delicate manner. Sam
seemed especially impressed by the way he
prepared the tea. The couple’s first impression
of Korean Buddhism was that graceful.
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Daily Templestay Program
11:00 Arrival at temple &
Orientation
12:00 Temple lunch
13:00 Temple etiquette
108 Prostrations to
Awaken Ourselves
14:00 Rubbing
Making lotus lanterns &
Circling the pagoda
16:00 Temple tour &
Visiting Seokguram Grotto
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A thin stone tablet was then placed in front of us. All of us were wondering
what it was for, but we soon saw that the tablet had a Buddha image carved
on its surface. We were asked to rub the image using black ink, rice paper,
and a wad of cotton covered with a cloth. First, we applied ink to the tablet
and put a piece of rice paper on it. With the cotton cylinder we tapped the
paper very carefully, following the image. Under our very hands a Buddha
image slowly emerged in black ink. Amazing! The whole process was
marvelous. The work was similar to making a print, though in this case the
image was the Buddha. Watching the Buddha image as it was revealed on
the white paper gave us a sense of awe. Even the typically jovial Sam focused
on the task with a serious demeanor.
Our next job was to make traditional lotus lanterns. When I entered the
temple compound, the lanterns hanging all over the courtyard looked
beautiful. I was kind of excited that I could have one that I had made myself.
For the lanterns, Sam chose yellow rice paper, Christina preferred the lightpink rice paper, and I chose the fuchsia-colored rice paper. We began to
paste the rice paper leaves around the round octagonal wire frame. After
finishing the work, I was afraid that the seemingly-fragile paper might be
easily torn, but the paper was so tightly attached that it made a clear sound
even when tapped.
Holding our finished lanterns, we circumambulated the pagoda, following
the monk. While we were circling the Dabotap Pagoda, with its exquisite
beauty, Christina’s eyes became moist with tears. She said that she didn’t
know exactly why, but that she had suddenly felt very reverent. Overwhelmed
by the solemn atmosphere, we followed the monk to the Buddha hall.
Following his instructions we performed prostrations before the altar and
then sat with our legs crossed, practicing sitting meditation.
Because of the tight schedule – we were supposed to leave for Busan that
afternoon – we had less than four hours at Bulguksa. We all wished we
could have stayed longer. Daily templestay was an excellent program which
enabled us to appreciate traditional Korean culture, regardless of our religion.
Later Sam and Christina admitted that the moments they had taking their
pictures at the pavilion on the bridge were the happiest part of their stay
at the temple. They expressed their desire to take part in the templestay
program again. This brought home to me that experiencing something for
oneself is worth countless books on travel. Splendid! Two thumbs up for our
traditional Buddhist culture!
Bulguksa Templestay
Telephone
054-746-0983
Website
http://www.bulguksa.org
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Visit to Gyeongju
Attractions around Bulguksa
Mount Namsan
Gyeongju National Museum
People began to widely revere Mount Namsan
in the early 6th century when the mountain
became known as the abode of the Buddha.
Mount Namsan is home to many ancient ruins
and archeological sites with 112 sites for shrines
and temples, sixty-one pagodas and eighty Buddha
statues excavated and listed so far. There are over
a dozen relics found on Mount Namsan that
qualify as National Treasures. The most famous
of the hundreds of remains scattered around the
mountare: Najeong, identified by legend as the
birth place of Silla’s founder Park Hyeokgeose;
Changrimsa, the site of Silla’s first royal palace; the
Poseokjeong (abalone-shaped stone watercourse)
garden site on the western slope; and the site of
Cheongwansa Temple, where it is said that General
Kim Yushin as a young cadet of the Hwarang (elite
group of male youth in Silla) taught the lessons of
filial piety and loyalty to the king.
First founded in 1945 as the Gyeongju Branch
of the National Museum of Korea, the museum
hopes to be a welcome center and gateway for all
visitors who come to Gyeongju to experience its
rich historic and cultural heritage. The Museum
grounds are divided into the Archaeology Hall,
Art Hall, Anapji Hall, and Outdoor Exhibition
area. The Museum hosts various special
exhibitions, such as ‘See Korea’s Cultural History
Through X-ray Photography’ and ‘Treasures of
the Tang Dynasty,’ in addition to its permanent
exhibitions. Its holdings are largely devoted to
Silla-period relics such as gold crowns, earrings,
Buddhist art work, glass cups, and jade and
crystal objects. The museum showcases a
total of 417 artifacts including the end-roof
tile patterned with a smiling face, famously
dubbed ‘the smile of Silla.’ If reservations are
made in advance, photography or the rubbing
of museum artifacts for reproduction is possible
on Mondays when the Museum is closed.
Telephone 054-741-7612
Website http://gyeongju.museum.go.kr
Telephone 054-740-7500
G
yeongju is one of the oldest cities in Korea, with less tints of modernization than any other city. Travelers feel like
they are taking a journey back through time and witnessing historical scenes. Mountains around the city such as
Tohamsan, Danseoksan and Namsan also cherish their own stories. With its plentiful historic sites, legendary places,
and various natural attractions, Gyeongju is ready to be discovered by explorers. Why not embrace all the pleasures this
majestic city has to offer?
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Silla Millennium Park
Cheomseongdae Observatory
Cheonmachong
(Heavenly Horse Tomb)
Munmu Daewangreung
(Tomb of the Great King Munmu)
Silla Millennium Park is a theme park integrating
both education and entertainment that has
successfully reconstructs the history and culture
of the Silla period. The four major cities of the
8th century are reproduced: Constantinople,
Baghdad, Huanqingchi, and Gyeongju as well.
Other attractions include a stone ice storage
house, Bimalgi pond, a foot spa, and the Jang
Bogo Stage (named for a famous admiral of
the Silla Dynasty). Houses in the Silla Village
faithfully reproduce Silla buildings. A dynamic
show on horseback is performed daily. Visitors
can enjoy the outdoor set of the famous Korean
drama “Queen Seondeok.” In addition, Lagung
(meaning “the palace of Silla”) is located in the
park, the first hotel in Korea to use traditional
Korean architecture.
First founded in 1945 as the Gyeongju Branch
of the National Museum of Korea, the museum
hopes to be a welcome center and gateway for all
visitors who come to Gyeongju to experience its
rich historic and cultural heritage. The Museum
grounds are divided into the Archaeology Hall,
Art Hall, Anapji Hall, and Outdoor Exhibition
area. The Museum hosts various special
exhibitions, such as ‘See Korea’s Cultural History
Through X-ray Photography’ and ‘Treasures of
the Tang Dynasty,’ in addition to its permanent
exhibitions. Its holdings are largely devoted to
Silla-period relics such as gold crowns, earrings,
Buddhist art work, glass cups, and jade and
crystal objects. The museum showcases a
total of 417 artifacts including the end-roof
tile patterned with a smiling face, famously
dubbed ‘the smile of Silla.’ If reservations are
made in advance, photography or the rubbing of
museum artifacts for reproduction is possible on
Mondays when the Museum is closed.
One of the earlier tombs in the Royal Tomb
Complex dated to the 6 century yielded a multi
colored painting on birch bark of a winged horse.
It is unknown which Silla king was interred in this
tomb, but the treasures discovered in the tomb
indicate it is a royal tomb. The name of the tomb
derives from a famous painting of a white horse on
a saddle flap. Winged divine horses are worshipped
as the mounts for the Heavenly King.
King Munmu resolved to become a dragon to ward
off foreign invasions after his death and ordered
the tomb built to stop foreign invaders. Son of
King Muyeol, King Munmu defeated Baekje and
Goguryeo and is considered to be the first ruler to
see the Korean peninsula completely united. His
son King Sinmun built the Gameunsa Temple and
dedicated it to his father.
Website
http://www.smpark.co.kr
Telephone 054-778-2000
Heavenly Horse Tomb is a small tumulus located
to the left of the Tomb of King Michu in the Royal
Tomb Complex, some distance away from the gate.
It is the only tomb in Gyeongju whose interior
chamber is open to public. The mound is cut in
half and converted into a museum-like display
showcasing burial goods including a gold crown,
a gold girdle, jade comma-shaped beads and glass
cups as well as the painting of the winged horse,
which are designated as the National Treasures.
Also called Daewangam (the Rock of the Great
King), the Tomb of Great King Munmu is a small
islet, virtually indistinguishable from natural rock
formation. A waterway was built for the sea dragon
to travel between the sea and land. It is covered
with a flat undersea rock measuring 3.7m by 2.06m
and placed on a south-north axis under which the
remains of King Munmu are believed to be interred.
Telephone +055-930-3756/7/8
Telephone 054-772-6317
Telephone 054-772-5134
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Temple Food
Seasonal Vegetable’s Secret
Magic for Soothing the
Summer Heat
Noodle with stir fried eggplant
Two Special Recipes Suggested
by Ven. Seonjae
Ingredients
2eggplants,
5 fresh shitake mushrooms,
6 button mushrooms,
2 Tbsp perilla oil,
Noodle dough
1/2zucchini,
10 sesame leaves,
3 cups flour,
1 tsp salt
Seasoning
4 Tbsp Korean chili paste,
2 Tbsp grain syrup,
1 tsp home-made soy sauce
Preparation
1 Cut the eggplants length-wise and slice them into diagonal pieces. Slice fresh shitake and button
mushrooms.
2Combine zucchini and sesame leaves in a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl,
and mix with flour and salt to make the noodle dough. Knead the noodle dough thoroughly.
3 Flatten and roll out the dough with a rolling pin and cut it into long, thin strips.
4Preheat and oil the pan with perilla oil. Sauté eggplants and mushrooms lightly. Season with
Korean chili paste, grain syrup and soy sauce.
W
hat dishes are used at the temple to soothe the exhaustion brought on by the sultry summer weather?
The secret of these delicious remedies lies in using fresh seasonal produce, which helps cool our system by
removing excess heat and boosts the resilience of both mind and body to summer heat. The esteemed temple cuisine
master Venerable Seonjae suggests noodles with stir-fried eggplant and cold japchae.
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5Cook the noodles in boiling water. Transfer to a bowl and add sautéed eggplants and
mushrooms on top.
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Samulnori shocked my soul.
It led me to Korea and then,
to Buddhism
Cold Japchae
Dharma Talk 1
Hendrikje Lange
Ingredient
200gCellophane noodle,
5 dried shitake mushrooms,
3 cabbage leaves,
4 red cabbage leaves,
1/2cucumber,
1/3carrot,
1 bunch sesame leaves,
3 lettuce leaves,
1/2 red, yellow and orange bell pepper
perilla oil,
soy sauce
Dressing
1pear,
2Tbsp soy sauce,
1/2 Tbsp salt,
1 Tbsp mustard,
2 Tbsp vinegar,
sugar
Preparation
1Soak the Cellophane noodles in cold water. Add the soaked noodles to boiling water and cook until soft.
Rinse in cold water and drain.
2 Soak the dried shitake mushrooms until soft. Squeeze the excess water from the mushroom,
slice them and season with soy sauce and perilla oil. Lightly stir-fry in the pan.
3 Thinly slice cabbage, red cabbage, cucumber, carrot, sesame leaves, lettuce and bell peppers.
4 Grate the pear. Combine with soy sauce, salt, vinegar, mustard and sugar (optional) to make the dressing.
5 Pile the Cellophane noodles in the middle of a large plate.
Place the vegetables around the noodles decoratively, drizzle with dressing, and serve.
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I
t was love at first sight. When she first watched the performance of Kim Duck-soo’s Samulnori band in Switzerland,
she says she felt shocked and that experience totally changed her life. This young Swiss girl, Hendrikje Lange flew to
Korea and is now immersing herself in learning samulnori, the Korean traditional percussion quartet, at Korea National
University of Arts. Her challenges with the art still continue; she made a performance on the stage of “Naebidueo (Let
It Be) Concert” at Geumsansa Temple. On May 5th, Children’s Day, ‘Templestay met her and listened to her story.
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Samulnori
Samulnori is music played on the four basic Korean percussion
instruments: the ggoenggwari (a small gong), the jing (a large
gong), the janggo (an hourglass drum), and the buk (a barrel
drum). Though derived from traditional Korean famers’ music,
samulnori itself is a fairly recent phenomenon, having begun in
1978 with the establishment of the very first Samulnory band by
Kim Duck-soo. It became popular and spread quickly as a new
genre of music. This highly creative, exhilarating, joyful music
is now performed on stages around the world. from Naver and
Haegeum. Since Korean music has such deep emotion, I feel that
it could be a very beautiful fusion with Swiss music.
Please introduce yourself.
What do you find interesting about Buddhism?
My name is Hendrikje Lange. I came from Switzerland and now I live in
Korea. I study at the Korea National University of Arts and am enrolled in
the Master’s program for Korean traditional performing arts.
For me in particular, what is interesting in Buddhism is how they think
about life and how they think about destiny. What are life and destiny?
That way of thinking is so different from the European way. The result
is a more relaxed way of dealing with the difficult and sad things in life,
because they see things in a much bigger context. Nowadays life makes
more sense because it is connected with destiny and this is connected with
other lives.
As you are Swiss, how did you first come to know about Korea?
What inspired you?
I met Korean Samulnori for the first time in Switzerland in about 1996
when I saw a performance of the master Deok-Su Kim. When I saw that
performance I was deeply impressed by the beauty and power of Korean
traditional music, so I really wanted to learn this drumming art. This is
how my love story with Korea began!
What was your first impression of Samulnori?
When I watched the performance of Deok-Su Kim’s Samulnori, I had the
feeling of really big power, and at the same time it was very joyful. I also
understood that this music has a very spiritual background. It was very
beautiful to watch because they were singing and dancing at the same
time, and the rhythms were really very interesting.
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What are your feelings about the Templestay program?
I really love following the monastic life, waking up 3:00 in the morning,
going to the temple and doing all the prayers and the 108 prostrations. It
really helps me to calm my mind down. I think the Templestay program is
a very nice way to introduce Korean Buddhism to people who don’t know
anything about it. They can get to know Korean Buddhism in a short time,
have some first impressions, and then if they really like it, they can visit
the temple again.
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Dharma Talk 2
Buddhism is Helpful to Golfers
Come and join Templestay while in Korea
Y.E. Yang, 2009 PGA Championship Winner
“
I was absolutely overwhelmed by its
enormous size. It was so impressive that I wished
to come nearer to appreciate it more closely.
”
Do you plan to continue your studies in the future?
When I studied Korean traditional music I learned many other aspects of
Korean culture too. I also have become interested in Korean dance and
in Korean folk songs. There are too many things to study more about. I
hope that I can also learn not only the drumming but the singing, because
I really love Korean folk songs. After finishing my studies I would like to
go back to my country and then promote Korean traditional culture to
European people. I would like to teach Samulnori and also, of course,
I want to perform Samulnori, so the Swiss people can know about the
beauty of Korean culture.
O
n 21st of April, world-famous professional golfer Yang Yong-eun (40•KB Financial Group) arrived at Silleuksa
Temple in Yeoju to participate in a Templestay program with future golfers. As an ice-breaker,, at the beginning of
the Templestay he answered questions about golf and himself in friendly way. He also gave a “one-point” golf lesson
and demonstrated PGA stretching, acting as a one-day mentor for the young athletes. Below is an interview with him,
in which he expresses his thoughts on Templestay. He is the Goodwill Ambassador for Templestay in honor of the
program’s tenth anniversary.
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You are the Goodwill Ambassador for Templestay to celebrate
its tenth anniversary. Now you are here for the program. What
do you think of it?
This is my first templestay. I slept at a temple, I attended the early morning
service, and I also joined the monastic formal meal. I feel comfortable.
Nothing is difficult . I slept well, my mind is full of good thoughts, and I’m
relaxed. I am really happy to be here. It was a good choice.
You have been with the young athletes. As a mentor, what do
you want to say to them?
Well, it is hard to say exactly; however, I hope this was good time for
them. It was good for me too. I was touched to know that they all love
golf. I hope many good things will happen for them after this. They are
still young and need more practice. I want them to enjoy golf and practice
it earnestly. If you do not like golf, you cannot do it for long and cannot
improve. You should love it first. The more you love golf, the more you
play. The more you play, the better you will do. I hope that they can keep
this attitude through this program. I hope they play golf for love.
You are a Buddhist. Is Buddhism helpful when you are in a
competition?
A lot. Sometimes I have a scattered mind or get lost. Then I pray to the
Buddha or do meditation. It helps me a great deal. Since I have faith, I
basically have a positive attitude toward everything. It’s like, this: ‘Ok,
everything will be all right.,’ or ‘It will turn out well for me.’ I have the
Buddha by my side. Those thoughts may look meaningless to others, but
it really works for me in the competition.
“
Sometimes I have a scattered mind or
get lost. Then I pray to the Buddha or do
meditation.
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”
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Cartoon
Happiness is right beside you...
What are you
looking for, Sir?
I am looking for a four-leaf clover. I need
some good luck.
Do you know what a three-leaf clover
stands for?
What would you like to say about Templestay to foreign
visitors?
I’ll speak from my experience. You do not have to be overwhelmed or
intimidated because it’s a temple. It’s more important to have time for
self-reflection. I would like to proudly say that Templestay is a good
opportunity to stay at a temple, putting your body and mind at ease and
relaxing. I always recommend Templestay to my foreign friends. Human
feelings are universal. If something is good for us, it can be good for
others. One thing I want to tell everyone is that this program will be aof
big help because it is something you do for yourself.
It's Happiness.
Happiness?
Sir, don't miss what you already have while
wasting time searching for luck.
We heard that you strongly commended Templestay other
golfers. You advised them to participate when they come to
Korea. Why?
Golf is, in fact, a psychologically and energy consuming sport. That’s why
I suggested that they join this program when they have an opportunity.
When the Buddha stayed at Jetavana, a deva approached him and asked. "Numerous gods
and human beings want to be happy and are waiting for good fortune. I humbly beg you
to show us what is the highest happiness."
The Buddha said, "If you live in a right place, if you make a right vow, and if you do right
things in truth, that is the highest happiness."
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The Emotion of Korea
The Four
Guardian Kings
Ferocious Appearances Full of Emotions
Damuncheonwang
Jeungjangcheonwang
Jigukcheonwang
Gwangmokcheongwang
(多聞天王, Vaisravana)
(增長天王,Virudhaka)
(持國天王, Dhrtarsastra)
(廣目天王, Virupaksa)
- Delight, North
- Love, South
- Joy, East
- Anger, West
Damun-cheonwang defends the
northern quarter of Mt. Sumeru,
which is considered. the entrance
to the enlightened realm of the
Buddha. Therefore, the northern
protector is considered as the
highest among the guardian kings.
His name,appellation ‘Damun
(多聞),’ meaning ‘hearing all
the teachings,’ indicates that as
protector of the Buddha’s residence
he hears without exception all
of the Buddha’s teachings. He is
also called ‘king of the yaksa,’ or
‘king of the raksas,’ because of his
control over these classes of celestial
beingsm. He plays a lute, which
embodies hisying sublime delight
in hearing the precious teachings.
He governs the winter season and
his black face indicate that he
guides sentient beings wandering
in darkness.
The south side Mt. Sumeru is
under the protection of Jeungjangcheonwang. He grips a dragon in
his right hand and a cintamani
(wish-granting jewel) in his left.
He is clad in armor and through
his majestic power manifests the
virtues necessary for sentient beings
to be born. He command the army
of hungry ghosts and kumbhanda,
ghosts with a horse’s head on a
human body who consume people’s
life-energy. This god embodiess
love. His season is summer. His
face’s red color refers to the southern
direction and also represents his
ability to bring life to all creatures.
Jiguk-cheonwang(持國天王) is
a tutelary deity who, on the eastern
side of Mt. Sumeru, guards the
Dharma according to the Buddha’s
command. He controls the forces
of good and evil. He is said to have
made the determination to protect
his country and make his people
comfortable. Because of this vow he
is called ‘Jiguk-cheonwang(持國),’
meaning ‘to defend the nation.’
Holding a sword in his right hand,
he rules over the musical deities
called gandharva, who are said
to live on scent alone and never
consume meats or alcohols, and the
foul-smelling ghosts called putana,.
This joyful guardian king rules over
spring. The blue color of his face,
is also the symbol of the eastern
direction and his simple rule: reward
for virtuous people and punishment
for those who are not.
Western guardian Gwangmokcheongwang employs loud voice
and eloquence to scatter evil
phenomena. His title Gwangmok
(廣目), meaning ‘wide eyed,’ comes
from his wide-eyed ferocity, which
overwhelms vicious beings. He
made a vow to terrify evil-doers into
remorse with his severe demeanor.
He wears a red crown and body
armor and hold a trident in his right
hand and a pagoda in his left. He
command dragons and beings called
pisaca to defend the Dharma realm.
Anger is the jurisdiction of this
fierce god. His face is white, which
represents his obligation to subdue
evil people and arouse in their mind
faith in the Buddha’s compassionate
teachings. White is also the symbol
of the western direction.
Delight, Love, Joyfulness, Anger. When you use these new
names for the four celestial warriors, they will come to be the
guardians of your mind.
A
temple begins at Ilju-mun(一柱門, One-Pillar
Gate). A few steps from the entrance, the strange
and overwhelming statues of the Sacheonwang-mun
(四天王門, the Four Guardians’ Gate) greet visitors.
The four guardian kings are protectors of Buddhist
teachings. They dwell in the heavens on each side of
Mt. Sumeru, whichin Buddhist cosmology is thought
to be the center of the world. The four guardians reside
in their own heaven, safeguarding the Buddha, who
resides in Tusita Heaven, located on the summit of the
mountain. The four heavenly guardians are: Damuncheonwang (多聞天王, Vaisravana), a lute, defending the northern quarter Jeungjang-cheonwang (增長
天王,Virudhaka) accompanied by a dragon and a
cintamani(wish-granting jewel), protecting the southern quarter Jiguk-cheonwang(持國天王, Dhrtarsastra)
who holds a sword, safeguarding the eastern quarter
and Gwangmok-cheongwang (廣目天王, Virupaksa)
who holds a trident and a pagoda, defending the western quarter.
The ferocious looks of these four guardians frighten
people. The colors of their skin, which are red, blue,
white and black, make them appear even more unearthly. However, do not shrink back and simply pass
by them. Take a moment and feel the human emotions
the four gods exhibit withiny their fearful images
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Where to Experience Templestay
The temples are available in English
Geumsunsa
Myogaksa
International
Seon Center
Woljeongsa
Jeondeungsa
Yongjoosa
Bongeunsa
Jikjisa
Geumsansa
Dongwhasa Golgulsa
Haeinsa
Seonunsa
Beomeosa
Mihwangsa
Yakchunsa
16 Selected Temples
for Foreigners
Seoul
Gyeonggi/Incheon
Jeonbuk/Jeonnam
Bongeunsa Temple
+82-2-3218-4826
www.bongeunsa.org
Jeondeungsa Temple
+82-32-937-0152
www.jeondeungsa.org
Geumsansa Temple
+82-63-542-0048
www.geumsansa.org
Geumsunsa Temple
+82--2-395-9955
www.geumsunsa.org
Yongjoosa Temple
+82-31-235-6886
www.yongjoosa.or.kr
Mihwangsa Temple
+82-61-533-3521
www.mihwangsa.com
Myogaksa Temple
+82-2-763-3109
www.myogaksa.net
Gyeongbuk/Gyeongnam
Seonunsa Temple
+82-63-561-1375
www.seonunsa.org
Golgulsa Temple
+82-54-775-1689
www.sunmudo.com
Busan/Daegu
Gangwon
Haeinsa Temple
+82-55-934-3110
www.haeinsa.or.kr
Beomeosa Temple
+82-51-508-5726
www.beomeo.kr
Jeju
Woljeongsa Temple
+82-33-339-6606
www.woljeongsa.org
Jikjisa Temple
+82-54-436-6084
www.jikjisa.or.kr
Donghwasa Temple
+82-53-982-0223
www.donghwasa.net
Yakchunsa Temple
+82-64-738-5000
www.yakchunsa.org
International Seon Center
+82-2-2650-2242
www.seoncenter.or.kr
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