a historic guide to pasadena

Transcription

A HISTORIC GUIDE
TO PASADENA
WELCOME TO CICLAVIA—PASADENA
OUR PARTNERS
OUR SUPPORTERS
City of Los Angeles
Annenberg Foundation
Ralph M. Parsons Foundation
Rosenthal Family Foundation
David Bohnett Foundation
OUR MEDIA PARTNERS
The Los Angeles Times
Laemmle Theatres
89.3 FM KPCC Public Radio
Time Out Los Angeles
Pasadena Star-News
OUR SPONSORS
Cirque du Soleil
Tern Bicycles
The Laemmle Charitable Foundation
Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition
Indie Printing
Wahoo’s Fish Taco
Walden School
THANKS TO
La Grande Orange Café
Old Pasadena Management District
Pasadena Arts Council
Pasadena Heritage
Pasadena Museum of History
Playhouse District Association
South Lake Business Association
Written by Andrea Richards
Designed by Colleen Corcoran and Tiffanie Tran
Printed by Pace Marketing Communications
© CICLAVIA 2015
Welcome to CicL Avia Pasadena, our first event
held entirely outside of the city of Los Angeles!
And we couldn’t have picked a prettier city;
bordered by the San Gabriel Mountains and
the Arroyo Seco, Pasadena, which means
“Crown of the Valley” in the Ojibwa/Chippewa
language, has long been known for its beauty
and ideal climate. After all, a place best
known for a parade of flower-covered floats—
the world-famous Tournament of Roses since
1890—can’t be bad, right?
Today’s route centers on Colorado Boulevard—
Pasadena’s main east-west artery—a road with a
long and rich history. Originally called Colorado
Street, the road was named to honor the latest
state to join the Union at the time (1876) and
was changed to “Boulevard” in 1958. The beautiful Colorado Street Bridge, which was built in
1913 and linked the San Gabriel Valley to the
San Fernando Valley, still retains the old name.
It might have been the car that spurred the
development of Pasadena—some of today’s
route was even part of the famous Route 66—
but we were pleased to find the bicycle at its
1
beginnings. Several buildings in Pasadena’s
historic core, the area known as Old Pasadena,
are directly related to a turn-of-the-20th-century
bicycling craze. In fact, almost half a century
before the Arroyo Freeway, there were plans
to connect Los Angeles to Pasadena via an
elevated bicycle path. Let’s bring that back!
This guide would not have been possible without the assistance of two of Pasadena’s great
preservation organizations, Pasadena Heritage
and the Pasadena Museum of History, who
provided much of the historical information
and almost all of the beautiful photographs.
Thank you to the helpful staffs of both. On your
next trip to the Crown City make sure you visit
the museum’s two-acre campus or take one of
Pasadena Heritage’s fascinating tours.
CicLAvia transforms LA’s streets into a safe, fun,
car-free space for walking, bicycling, skating,
jogging and seeing the city in a whole new way.
Cars filled with young people
in a parade on Colorado St.
east of Lake Ave., 1927
Courtesy of the Archives,
OLD PASADENA .........................8
RAYMOND AVENUE ...........18
THE PLAYHOUSE
DISTRICT.......................................32
SOUTH LAKE ........................... 44
EAST COLORADO.....................51
NEIGHBORHOOD EXTRAS—LEGEND
4
CULINARY LA
INSTAGRAM SPOTS
SEEN IT: FILM LOCATIONS
LITERARY LA
SING IT
CICLAVIA COMING SOON
August 9
CicLAvia—Culver City Meets Venice
Presented by Metro
ctober 18
O
CicLAvia—Heart of L A
SOURCES:
“A Brief History of Bicycles in the Los Angeles Area,” by Nathan Masters,
kcet.org
Magnolia House
“Bikeway Was Ahead of Its Time,” by Cecilia Rasmussen, November 29,
1998 Los Angeles Times
City of Pasadena
Pasadena Heritage Walking Tours
BOOKS:
All About Pasadena and Its Vicinity by Charles Frederick Holder (1888)
Downtown Pasadena’s Early Architecture by Ann Scheid (Arcadia
Publishing, 2006)
The Arroyo Seco by Rich Thomas (Arcadia Publishing, 2008)
Pasadena 1940-2008 by Patrick Conyers, Cedar Phillips, and the Pasadena
Museum of History (Arcadia Publishing, 2009)
Pasadena: Crown of the Valley by Ann Scheid (Windsor Publications, 1986)
Discover the
HEART
BEAT
of Southern
California’s Culture
www.VisitPasadena.com
Colorado Blvd. looking east
to Marengo Ave., c. 1890
OLD PASADENA After Pasadena’s incorporation in 1886, the
population grew to 30,000 residents in less
than two decades. Unlike the organic growth of
most cities, where commercial establishments
flourish amid residential areas, Pasadena’s
founders banned business development within
the residential neighborhood on Orange
Grove Avenue. Instead, the town established a
business district at the easternmost boundary,
an area that eventually became known as “The
Four Corners” (the intersection of Colorado
Street and Fair Oaks Avenue). By the early
1900s, the business district expanded eastward
with Victorian-style brick buildings lining
Colorado Street.
While the wealthy, mostly white residents of
Pasadena built homes outside of downtown,
minority communities, limited by land covenants, occupied the noisier areas close to the
business district and the railroad tracks. Many
of these Chinese, Japanese and African
American residents worked in the nearby hotels
or in the grand homes along Millionaire’s Row.
The Doty Block, on the southeast corner of
S. Fair Oaks and Dayton Street, featured a hotel
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that first served Japanese Americans (Hotel
Mikado) and later became Pasadena’s first
Black-owned hotel, the Hotel Carver, which had
a famous jazz club.
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MEMORIAL
PARK HUB
Memorial Park
4
5
EUCLID
3
RAMONA
GARFIELD
1
COLORADO
2
GREEN
MARENGO
OLD
PASADENA
HUB
ARROYO PKWY
FAIR OAKS
DE LACEY
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In the 1980s, many of downtown’s buildings
were slated for demolition. Thankfully, Pasadena
Heritage came to the rescue. Working with
businesses and the City, they transformed the
area into one of the nation’s greatest downtown
revitalization successes.
UNION
PASADENA
The Depression ended the city’s resort era.
By the 1940s the downtown area had changed
from fancy hotels to bars and pawnshops.
During the 1960s and 70s, the area became
a countercultural center with artists moving
into abandoned buildings and a host of
head shops and adult bookstores; the City’s
Redevelopment Agency wanted to topple the
derelict buildings and build skyscrapers.
HOLLY
RAYMOND
The construction of the Mediterranean-style
Civic Center in the 1920s and the widening of
Colorado Street in 1929 changed the look
of downtown. Buildings along Colorado had
to be cut back 14 feet for the street expansion;
when rebuilt, the new facades were in the
Mediterranean and Art Deco styles.
WALNUT
Del Mar
DEL MAR
A burger from Jake’s,
38 W. Colorado Blvd.
In the alley behind the
Kinney-Kendall a la The Sting
The Great Dictator (1940), The
Sting (1973), Yes Man (2008)
The Brass Check by Upton
Sinclair
“Home in Pasadena”
by Al Jolson
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1
3. KINNEY-KENDALL , 1897
One Colorado
Courtesy of the Archives, Pasadena Museum of History
Full city block along Colorado Blvd., between
De Lacey and Fair Oaks
A collection of 17 historic buildings form this upscale
outdoor shopping mall that gives you a taste of the
area’s picturesque alleys and cleaned-up aesthetic.
Especially nice are the cobblestone drain ways
and the ghost sign for Clune’s Pasadena Theater,
Pasadena’s first theater. These service streets and
alleys long ago housed businesses such as blacksmiths, livery stables and foundries—trades and
industries essential to life in the growing town.
2
Bear Building
2 E. Colorado Blvd.
The intersection of Fair Oaks Ave.—the main artery to
Los Angeles before the freeway—and Colorado was
the original center of Pasadena, known early on as
“The Four Corners” and the Schoolhouse Block (for
the 5 acres of land that housed the city’s first 1878
school). Built in 1902 with its façade updated in 1929,
this Spanish Colonial Revival building once housed
a cigar factory. Be sure to check out the WPA-style
mural by local artist Kenton Nelson and the fabulous
ceiling of what was the Mecca Room; both are now
part of an 800 Degrees Pizzeria Restaurant.
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3
Kinney-Kendall Building
65 E. Colorado Blvd.
You might not guess that this building, the home of
a pawnshop for sixty years (one of the last vestiges
of the area before its revitalization), is the work of
Pasadena’s most famous architects, Charles and
Henry Greene (the Gamble House, the Blacker
House). In fact, it’s the only commercial building still
standing designed by the Arts & Crafts masters.
The brothers were just starting their careers in 1896
when they designed the three-story building, which
doesn’t really display their signature style.
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4
Site of First Presbyterian
Church (now Post Office)
4. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH , 1886
Corner of Colorado Blvd. & Garfield Ave.
By 1910, Pasadena had more than 50 churches. The
Methodists and Presbyterians claimed the largest
congregations and so it was fitting that they had
the biggest churches on Colorado. Before moving
further east (see Pasadena Presbyterian Church) the
Presbyterians first built a church on this site in 1876,
which was replaced by a more impressive structure
in 1886. In 1914 this post office replaced the church
and encouraged the eastward expansion of the
shopping and business district.
5
City Hall/Civic Center
100 Garfield Ave.
In the 1920s, a new Civic Center was built along
the axes of Garfield and Holly Streets. Three major
buildings were proposed: a library, a city hall and an
auditorium. The most prominent California architects
competed for the jobs—Myron Hunt was selected
to design the 1925 library, and the San Franciscobased team of Bakewell and Brown were awarded
City Hall, completed in 1927. The beautiful 2,997-seat
auditorium, opened in 1932, was designed by Cyril
Bennett, Fitch Haskell and Edwin Bergstrom and
remains one of the most revered performance halls
in the U.S.
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5. CITY HALL , 1949
6. MARYLAND HOTEL , c. 1903
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Maryland Hotel
Opened in 1903, this was the only one of Pasadena’s
grand hotels that remained open year round; the
others all closed after the season for wealthy travelers ended in April. Eventually made up of nine
different buildings, the hotel had a main building
(complete with a ballroom) and then a series of
bungalows and cottages connected by winding
pathways through a glorious garden. Famed
architect Myron Hunt, who was new to California
at the time, designed the gardens, including the
hotel’s famous—and much photographed—pergola,
and later oversaw the design of two new wings in
1908; he also redesigned the hotel after a 1914 fire
destroyed the main buildings but thankfully not its
bungalows. (Hunt even lived at the hotel at the time.)
The blaze started during the hotel’s usual Saturdaynight dance, but thankfully all 223 guests were
evacuated safely. Until the Maryland closed in the
1930s, it was the center of social life for Pasadena’s
most fashionable residents, and many prominent
people, including presidents, were guests there.
Two small portions of the once-regal hotel remain—
the 1929 Maryland Apartments on Euclid Ave. and a
portion of the garden wall along Euclid, just north of
All Saints Church.
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Raymond Ave. at
the Hotel Green
RAYMOND AVENUE
The 1885 arrival of the Santa Fe Railroad, which
operated the region’s first transcontinental route
across the U.S., transformed the sleepy suburb
of Pasadena into a primo destination for tourists,
especially wealthy Easterners looking to escape
the cold winter months. Walter Raymond,
proprietor of a successful Boston-based travel
agency and son of one of the Santa Fe’s original
stockholders, knew that to appeal to a wintering
clientele, Pasadena needed a grand hotel. So in
1883 he hired architect J.H. Littlefield to build
one atop a hill in what is today South Pasadena.
With 200 guest rooms and 55 acres of grounds,
the four-story Raymond Hotel had a distinctive
mansard roof and was visible for miles. From
the sweeping Victorian veranda, guests were
afforded a panoramic view of the Arroyo Seco,
the snow-covered San Gabriel Mountains
and the farmland and orchards surrounding
Pasadena. But in just a few hours on Easter
Sunday in 1895, the all-wood Raymond burnt
to the ground. Completely rebuilt, the hotel
reopened in 1901 and was even more lavish
than before; there was even a tunnel built into
the hillside that delivered guests directly from
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RAYMOND
UNION
11
WALNUT
RAMONA
7
Memorial Park
COLORADO
9
GREEN
13
OLD
PASADENA
HUB
15
MARENGO
14
ARROYO PKWY
12
FAIR OAKS
20
HOLLY
DE LACEY
While banks and businesses lined Colorado
Boulevard, Raymond Avenue offered many
cultural attractions—a public library was built
on North Raymond, an opera house on South
Raymond—alongside many establishments that
catered to hotel guests. Today, remnants from
this era remain—including part of the Hotel
Green—to remind us of the area’s elegant past.
8
10
PASADENA
Raymond Avenue, named for the hotel and its
owner, was the site of three of Pasadena’s grand
hotels: the Raymond (1886), the Green (1891),
and at its far north end, the Painter (1888).
Owned by abolitionist John Hunt Painter, the
Painter was originally known as La Pintoresca
for its picturesque view, and unlike the other
grand hotels was open year round. Because
of this—and its high altitude—it was a popular
choice for health seekers.
MEMORIAL
PARK HUB
GARFIELD
the train station to the hotel via an underground
elevator. For three decades, the Raymond was
the place to stay, until the Great Depression
provided a serious blow to business. Reportedly,
Raymond’s family moved into the caretaker’s
quarters (today this house is the Raymond
Restaurant) and the hotel closed.
Del Mar
DEL MAR
Picnic basket from Marston’s
eaten in Memorial Park
Anywhere in front of the
Castle Green
This Is Spinal Tap (1984),
Pulp Fiction (1994)
The Seventeen Widows of Sans
Souci by Charlotte Armstrong
“Lunchbreak (Cobras Theme)”
by Ozma
7
Memorial Park/
Memorial Park Metro Station
85 E. Holly St.
This five-acre park, originally known as Library Park,
is home to the beautiful Levitt Pavilion, which hosts
free concerts in the summer. The historic band
shell—used for sing-a-longs and concerts since the
1930s—was restored in 2002. The stone entrance
arch of Pasadena’s first public library, constructed
here in 1890, remains at the park’s northwest corner;
the library itself was damaged by an earthquake in
1933 and later dismantled. Next to the park at Holly
St. and Arroyo Parkway is Metro’s Memorial Park
Station, a below-grade light-rail station served by
the Gold Line. Today, the Metro Gold Line runs
along the same route that the Santa Fe Railroad
originally operated.
8
Armory Center for the Arts
145 N. Raymond Ave.
Serving the community for more than 60 years, this
arts education nonprofit offers exhibitions, classes
and programs in partnership with local schools,
community groups and city agencies. Once known as
Pasadena Art Workshops, the organization changed
its name in 1989 after renovating and moving into this
city-owned site, the former National Guard Armory.
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7. MEMORIAL PARK BAND SHELL , 1992
9
Vanderbort Commercial Block
26-38 S. Raymond Ave.
Frank Hudson, who also designed Los Angeles’s
Museum of Natural History, designed this Romanesque two-story brick building built in 1894. A variety
of businesses were established here that catered to
the guests at the Hotel Green; one bit of lore is that
screen legend Rudolph Valentino rented a room
upstairs where he taught wealthy divorcees to dance.
During Old Pasadena’s deteriorating days from the
late 1970s to the mid-1990s, the popular coffee shop,
the Espresso Bar, was located in the alleyway behind
#34 (director Tim Burton, then living at the Castle
Green, was a fan).
23
10
Raymond Theatre
129 N. Raymond Ave.
Built in 1920 and designed by Cyril Bennett—whose
local architectural firm also designed the nearby
Civic Auditorium—this Beaux Arts style theater was
one of the great theaters in Southern California
during the 1920s. Owned by the Jensen Theatre
Corporation, the 2000-seat venue hosted the top
vaudeville performers of the day and served as
a popular movie palace. It was sold in 1948 and
reopened as the Crown Theatre, still serving as
Pasadena’s premier movie house until the 1970s
when it became a concert venue. Known as Perkins
Palace, the auditorium showcased some of the most
famous new wave and punk bands in the 1980s
(Adam and the Ants, the Cure and New Order all
made their SoCal debuts here—Wendy O. Williams
of the Plasmatics even blew up a car onstage). In the
1980s, preservationists began opposing developers who sought to turn it into an office building; a
twenty-year battle ensued that had musicians such
as Slash and David Lee Roth showing up to testify in
the building’s support at city hearings. In 2009, the
theatre’s interior was transformed into condominiums, offices and retail space.
24
10. RAYMOND THEATRE , 1921
11
Braley Building
35 S. Raymond Ave.
Originally built to house local businessman and civic
leader Edgar Braley’s bicycle emporium, today this
classic Beaux Arts building is owned by the Church
of Scientology, who renovated the structure (it was
the first building LEED certified in Old Pasadena).
Designed by prolific Pasadena architect C.W.
Buchanan, the building’s original function is evident
in its gorgeous atrium that features stained-glass
windows that incorporate bicycle wheels in the
design. After initial success with his bicycle business,
Braley turned this four-story building into an automobile showroom and offices.
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12
Hotel Green (Castle Green)
99 S. Raymond Ave.
The original Hotel Green, built in 1887, stood on the
southeast corner of Raymond Ave. and Green St.
Eventually the hotel expanded into a lavish resort
with three buildings, beautiful gardens, a bowling
alley, glass rooftop ballroom and a 205-foot bridge
called the Bridge of Sighs that spanned Raymond
Ave. This enclosed bridge, a piece of which remains
today, was a favorite spot for high society to watch
the annual Rose Parade. Today, what remains
of the original grand hotel is the fanciful annex
opened in 1889, now known as the Castle Green.
With its Moorish turrets and domes, Victorian
verandahs and Spanish-style balconies, architect
Frederick Roehrig created a breathtaking building that remains one of Pasadena’s most beloved
landmarks. The Hotel Green housed distinguished
winter guests such as the Gamble family and
Andrew McNally, both of whom were so fond of the
area that they eventually moved here permanently,
as well as the Rockefellers, the Roosevelts and
the Vanderbilts. Today, the 126-year-old National
Register building, also a local Historic Monument,
has been faithfully restored and has been turned
into privately owned condominiums.
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12. HOTEL GREEN , c. 1910
13
Central Park
275 S. Raymond Ave.
Opened in 1902, Pasadena’s first public park owes
its existence to the city’s resort era, when it served
basically as the backyard of the Hotel Green. Tourists
staying at the Green (and other nearby hotels) loved
its landscaped grounds, created by local Thomas
Chisholm. During its heyday, the park had a bandstand, an aviary and a zoo; today, some of these
tourist accoutrements remain, including a court, a
horseshoe pit and a lawn bowling area complete
with clubhouse.
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14
Site of the California
Cycleway
14. CALIFORNIA CYCLEWAY
Looking north from Raymond Hotel, 1900
Dayton Street, just behind the Castle Green
Long before the creation of the Arroyo Seco Parkway
that links Pasadena to Los Angeles—LA’s first freeway
built in 1940—there were plans to link the two cities
via a 9-mile elevated bicycle path. Created and
funded by Horace Dobbins, a millionaire and
one-time mayor of Pasadena, work began on the
California Cycleway in 1896. At the time, bicycles, not
automobiles, were thought to be the future of transportation. Pasadena’s residents and its steady supply
of visitors embraced bicycling, enough so that in
1900 there were 15 bicycle shops in town. The first
and only part of the elevated bikeway constructed,
in fact, connected two of the area’s posh hotels—a
1.4 mile length from the Hotel Green to the Raymond
Hotel. The four-lane wooden bikeway, which was
billed as an uninterrupted “paradise for the wheelman,” stood three to 50 feet above the ground and
opened on New Year’s Day as a part of the 1900
Rose Parade; some 600 cyclists participated in the
inaugural ride. Interestingly, it wasn’t the car that did
in the cycleway—it was the streetcar. Dobbins got
in a two-year-long battle with Henry E. Huntington,
owner of Pacific Electric, over rights-of-way for his
route. By the time the two compromised, the nationwide bicycle craze was over. Today, the Arroyo Seco
Parkway (the Pasadena Freeway/110 North) follows
much the same route of the proposed cycleway.
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15
Del Mar Station/
Site of Santa Fe Station
230 S. Raymond Ave.
Serving Metro’s Gold Line, part of this station incorporates the old Santa Fe Station, a mission-style
building constructed in 1930 that serviced the
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway (and later
Amtrak) until 1994. The train station waiting room and
adjacent luggage room are now restaurants. Home
to the Super Chief, the ultimate in luxury trains, until
the 1970s, the station was known as the “Gateway to
Hollywood” since many celebrities disembarked here
to avoid the press at LA’s Union Station.
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HILL
LAKE
R OAKS
Route for CicLAvia —Pasadena
presented by Metro
May 31, 2015
210
Allen
Lake
MEMORIAL
PARK HUB
134
8
10
1
7
3
UNION
6
16 17 18 19
22 23
28
20
COLORADO
31 HUB
GREEN
ARROYO PKWY
FAIR OAKS
24
25
SOUTH LAKE AVENUE
DISTRICT HUB
27
CALIFORNIA
CALIFORNIA
26
BONNIE
HILL
L AKE
EL MOLINO
LOS ROBLES
DEL MAR
DEL MAR
210
32
29
21
GREEN
15 Del Mar
30
COLORADO
9
RAYMOND
PASADENA
12
5
Memorial Park
UNION
4
COLORADO
2
11
OLD 14
PASADENA 13
HUB
WALNUT
WALNUT
Pasadena Playhouse
THE PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT
During Pasadena’s early days, its commercial
heart was today’s Old Pasadena and that bustling downtown area didn’t extend much past
Fair Oaks Avenue, beyond which lay various
ranches and citrus groves. In 1900, Colorado
Street east of Marengo Avenue was one of
the exclusive residential districts of the city.
The construction of the post office at Garfield
Avenue began the movement of businesses
eastward, and the construction of the Civic
Center sealed the deal; by 1931, only a few of
the old houses on Colorado remained.
The Playhouse District evolved during the 1920s
and 1930s as a major concentration of retail,
business, professional and artistic activities
along Colorado Boulevard emerged. This
progression represented the eastward growth
of the city’s urban character and amenities
during this period, after Pasadena’s economy
had changed from agriculture to tourism. This
period promoted the construction of residential, religious and cultural facilities including the
historic Playhouse Theatre Building in 1925. The
District still retains many of the original buildings and architectural features built during this
33
time, and a significant portion of the District has
been on the National Registry of Historic Places
since 1994.
UNION
16
17
18 19
22
23
COLORADO
20
HUDSON
GREEN
OAK KNOLL
21
EL MOLINO
MADISON
OAKLAND
LOS ROBLES
Today the Playhouse District continues to be
a lively cultural center, housing a number of
important museums (Pasadena Museum of
California Art, USC Pacific Asia Museum), as
well as galleries, live performance theatres
(Pasadena Playhouse, Boston Court Performing
Arts Complex), cinemas (Laemmle Playhouse
7, the Regency Academy) and Southern
California’s oldest independent bookstore
(Vroman’s). With cafes tucked into courtyards
and arcades featuring great restaurants, there
are also plenty of dining options in the area.
WALNUT
CORDOVA
34
Lee’s Sandwiches,
Playhouse neon sign,
39 S. El Molino Ave.
40 Year-Old Virgin (2005),
Transformers (2007)
Behind the Screen by William J.
Mann, My Bookstore by Ronald
Rice, Distant Land of My Father
by Bo Caldwell
“Little Old Lady from Pasadena”
by Jan & Dean
16
Pacific Asia Museum
46 N. Los Robles Ave.
Art dealer and self-taught anthropologist Grace
Nicholson commissioned this building, her “Treasure
House of Oriental Art,” in 1924 as both a residence
and an art gallery. She hired Marston, Van Pelt and
Maybury, Pasadena’s leading architectural firm, for
the design of her dream palace that was modeled
after buildings in Beijing’s Forbidden City. Nicholson
did much of the research for the design herself,
making sure every detail was stylistically correct.
Opened in stages during the 1920s, the building
became a center for the arts; the first-floor galleries
featured American Indian and Asian art, as well as
the work of local, national and international living
artists. The second floor housed more galleries, an
auditorium and Nicholson’s private apartment where
she lived until her death in 1948. In 1943, she gave
the building to the city, and it became the Pasadena
Art Institute (later the Pasadena Art Museum) until
moving in the seventies to become the Norton
Simon Museum. In 1971, the Pacific Asia Museum
was established here, one of few U.S. institutions
dedicated to the arts and culture of Asia and the
Pacific Islands. In 2013, an institutional partnership
with the University of Southern California formed
today’s USC Pacific Asia Museum.
36
16. PACIFIC ASIA MUSEUM
17
Warner Building
Another structure by the Pasadena firm of Marston,
Van Pelt and Maybury (see USC Pacific Asia
Museum), this wonderful Art Deco building features
a green glazed terra-cotta grille above the windows
that was designed by Jess Stanton, who also did
design work on the Pasadena Civic Auditorium.
The 1927 building originally housed several exclusive shops that catered to the wealthy guests of
the nearby Maryland Hotel. Currently, the Warner
Building is home to Linden Optometry.
37
18
Pasadena Star-News Building
525 E. Colorado Blvd. .
Home of the Pasadena Star-News for more than
60 years, this 1925 Beaux Arts building is made of
reinforced concrete, its massive walls and columns
designed to support the weight of hundreds of tons
of printing machinery. The paper, which has been
around since 1883 (although it had different names
and mergers), also broadcast radio programming
under the call sign KPSN, performing the first broadcast of the Rose Parade in 1926. Directly across the
street at 520 E. Colorado is a Spanish Colonial building built for the Singer Sewing Machine Company in
1926; Singer had a store here for more than 50 years.
18. PASADENA STAR-NEWS BUILDING , 1927
19
Pasadena Presbyterian
Church
The Presbyterian Church has long been established
in Pasadena; its history—and its churches—are a
microcosm of the area’s larger history, from its
geographical movement east to the architectural
shifts from Victorian to Modern structures. Founded
in 1875, the congregation met in a private home;
they built their first church a year later at the corner
of what was then Colorado St. and Worcester (now
Colorado Blvd. and Garfield Ave., the present-day
location of the post office). In 1886, they replaced
the small chapel with an impressive Romanesquestyle brick building, which featured a tall, slender
steeple and the first pipe organ in town. (The same
1891 windstorm that destroyed the First Methodist
Church’s tower also downed this steeple.) In 1908,
the church moved, purchasing this site and erecting a new Gothic Revival chapel. After 61 years,
that structure was damaged in the 1971 Sylmar
earthquake, and the congregation hired architect
John Gougeon for the design of its new church.
Completed in 1976, Gougeon’s design might seem
dull when viewed from Colorado Blvd., but walk
around back to see the dramatic soaring arch
and massive stained glass window. Among items
salvaged from the old sanctuary are the 6,000-pipe
organ and the 1908 campanile bells, which are now
mounted on the tower in front of the church.
39
20. UNITED ARTISTS THEATRE , 1931
20
United Artists Theatre
In 1996, the current owners (Angeles School Supply)
of this 1931 theater removed the building’s 1960s
sheet-metal façade to reveal the Art Deco beauty
beneath. Originally one of a chain of United Artists
motion picture theaters, this one was, like most in
Southern California, designed by the firm of Walker
and Eisen. The 900-seat theater was, according to
the Pasadena Star-News, “modernistic throughout”
with black and silver decorations.
21
21. PASADENA PLAYHOUSE
Pasadena Playhouse
39 S. El Molino Ave.
One of the finest works by architect Elmer Grey (the
Beverly Hills Hotel, the Huntington Library, CalTech),
this Spanish-colonial Revival building opened in 1925.
Built as the home of the community theatre organization started in 1916, the Playhouse quickly became a
hub of the theatre community west of the Mississippi.
Playwrights Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee Williams
premiered work here and actors such as Raymond Burr,
Dustin Hoffman and Gene Hackman received training
at the affiliated theatre school. After being declared as
the official State Theatre of California by the legislature in 1937, and many more decades of success,
the school closed and the Playhouse went bankrupt
in 1969. In 1975, the City of Pasadena purchased the
building, reopening the Playhouse in 1986. 41
22
Vroman’s Bookstore
A Pasadena institution, this bookstore is Southern
California’s oldest and largest independent bookstore. Adam Clark Vroman, a leader in the growing
town’s cultural life, founded the store in 1894; he also
helped to establish the Southwest Museum and the
Pasadena Public Library. According to the shop’s
website, when Mr. Vroman died in 1924, he left the
bookstore to longtime employees, one of whom
was the great grandfather of the current owner.
There are even stories that during WW II, Vroman’s
donated and delivered books to interned Japanese
Americans (one confirmed account from Manzanar
clearly recalls textbooks coming from Vroman’s).
23
Robinson’s Department
Store Building
Don’t dismiss this massive mid-century block; the
two-story concrete building has a distinguished
architectural pedigree. Designed by Charles Luckman
and William Pereira, Robinson’s Department Store
opened on the site in 1958; the architects would
later work together on LAX’s iconic Theme Building.
Target opened here in 1993, and since they were
required to retain the iconic building, turned it into
their first two-story store in the country.
42
23. ROBINSON’S, 1992
Lake Ave. at Del Mar Blvd.,
c. 1950
SOUTH LAKE AVENUE
Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake
Avenue is a vibrant business district and shopping area with fancy boutiques, high-end chains
and even a Trader Joe’s. Some of these shops
are set in charming courtyards, others strip-mall
style on the avenue itself. Throughout the 20th
century, commerce has moved in an easterly
direction down Colorado Boulevard, from the
Victorian beginnings of the city’s downtown
in Old Pasadena to the 1920s opulence of
the Playhouse District. The Depression, of
course, affected this growth, shuttering many
long-established businesses, including most
of Pasadena’s grand hotels. The only one that
still operates as a hotel today is the Langham
Huntington Hotel, which is in the Oak Knoll
neighborhood at the end of South Lake Avenue.
While the post-war era left these older neighborhoods “blighted,” the newfound prosperity
brought as a result of the war’s end fueled
suburban development in Pasadena, as it did
everywhere else. One of the neighborhoods
most changed was South Lake Avenue. Before
the war, South Lake was residential, bounded
by homes on both sides of the street. But the
45
GREEN
HUDSON
OAK KNOLL
25
SOUTH LAKE
AVENUE
DISTRICT HUB
24
SAN PASQUAL
LAKE
CALIFORNIA
27
26
Make your own ice-cream
float at Float in the
Burlington Arcade
“Buzzbomb from Pasadena”
by the Dead Kennedys
Children’s barbershop
in Macy’s
Helen of Pasadena by
Lian Dolan
WILSON
CATALINA
DEL MAR
Legally Blonde (2001), shot
at CalTech
46
MENTOR
CORDOVA
EL MOLINO
But, of course, neighborhoods change with the
times, and the rebirth of Old Pasadena in the
late 1980s put the shops along South Lake into
decline. Since then, South Lake has been on
the rise again thanks to redevelopment and a
growing appreciation for its historic jewel—the
Bullock’s building was added to the National
Register in 1996. Today, the north section of
South Lake near Colorado Boulevard and Green
Street is a banking, financial and business center; south of Green Street, South Lake continues
to be a thriving retail district until residences
begin at California Boulevard.
COLORADO
LAKE
opening of Bullock’s Department Store in 1947
changed all that. Created with the automobile
in mind, Bullock’s “store of tomorrow” boasted
an interior designed to feel like a private
residence or an exclusive country club with
lavish landscaping surrounding the store. The
elegance and prestige of Bullock’s led to the
development on both sides of South Lake
Avenue, and the area became the chicest part
of Pasadena during the midcentury.
24
Bullock’s Pasadena (Macy’s)
24. BULLOCK’S PASADENA
401 S. Lake Ave.
Saved by Pasadena Heritage, this building is “a sublime
example of a post-World War II department store,
carefully engineered to meet the precise aspirations
of residents of Pasadena,” according to the Los
Angeles Conservancy. The Pasadena outpost of the
famed department store, this Late Moderne-style
structure, designed by the firm of Wurdeman and
Becket (their first of more than 100 department
store designs), is so beautiful it might bring architectural fans (or high-end shoppers) to tears. In fact,
Arts and Architecture magazine described it as
“one of the world’s most modern buildings.”Though
there are no longer lunchtime fashion shows at the
Coral Room, shopping here remains an experience,
from the building’s sweeping exterior to its elegant
and often cozy interior. Apparently, the architects
worked closely with interior designer Raymond C.
Dexter to create the shop’s departments, each one
punctuated with thoughtful and magnificent elements (the wallpaper, the world map mural in the
children’s section). Along with the impressive building, landscape architect Ruth Shellhorn created
complementary grounds that have been altered as
the surrounding area (once a six-acre parking lot)
has been developed into retail establishments.
48
25
Burlington Arcade
380 S. Lake Ave.
A replica of London’s 19th-century shopping
arcade that runs behind Bond St. from Piccadilly to
Burlington Gardens, this jewel-box nook comes as a
surprise when walking along South Lake Ave. From
a car, you’d probably miss it. So be glad you are on
a bike or walking and can stop to admire its pink
ceilings and seafoam green trim, which recall the
type of confection you just might find for sale from
one of the tenants.
49
26
Haskett Court
834 E. California Blvd.
This charming, six-unit bungalow court built in 1926
was designed by Pasadena architect Charles Ruhe
for W.B. Haskett, whose family lived in the complex
until the early 1980s. After that, the Tudor-style
cottages were converted into retail shops until they
were acquired by the non-profit Heritage Housing
Partners, who restored the landmark (listed on the
National Register of Historic Places) and sold the
residences to first-time homebuyers. Please don’t
disturb residents as you admire this fine example of
a 1920s bungalow court.
27
Pie ’n Burger
913 E. California Blvd.
Just off South Lake, this classic burger joint is a
Pasadena institution, especially for Caltech students
for whom it’s basically the school cafeteria. Open
since 1963, little has changed by way of recipes or
interiors: there’s a Formica counter, swivel stools
and homemade thousand island on the burgers. In
other words: perfect. Proprietor Michael Osborn,
who has owned the diner since 1972, grew up eating
here when he visited his grandmother who worked
around the corner at Bullock’s.
50
EAST COLORADO
The prosperity of the post-war years continued to push the city’s expansion eastward,
and instead of tourism and agriculture, the
economy shifted to technology and industry.
According to the city, there were 394 industrial
establishments in Pasadena by 1954. Plus, the
completion of the Arroyo Seco Parkway in
1940—a fast and direct route to Los Angeles—
quickened suburban development of the area.
To accommodate the growth—both residential
and commercial—new housing tracks were developed, including the purchase of the Hastings
Ranch area (just north of today’s route).
Such rapid growth brought problems, among
them smog and pollution from new factories
and businesses. Also, as newcomers flocked
to Pasadena, race-based housing restrictions
remained, effectively segregating the city and
limiting minority populations to older sections
of the city. It’s important to note that the
Pasadena school district wasn’t desegregated
until 1970 and only then by federal decree—the
only school system outside of the South to be
forcibly desegregated. Plus, construction of
the Foothill and Long Beach freeways displaced
51
BONNIE
SIERRA BONITA
30
MARION
UNION
HARKNESS
WALNUT
MICHIGAN
28
MAR VISTA
WILSON
CATALINA
32
COLORADO
29
GREEN
HILL
HOLLISTON
CORDOVA
CHESTER
52
MENTOR
It’s taken a few tumultuous decades to turn
things around. Revitalization efforts in the 70s,
80s and 90s were both great successes (Old
Pasadena!) and failures (the Plaza Pasadena
mall, currently the site of Paseo Colorado).
What mostly improved the city over the last four
decades was dedicated efforts from its citizens:
preservationists created Pasadena Heritage
and brought about a new respect for the city’s
architectural treasures, and voters changed
laws so that more minority representatives
were elected and a greater emphasis placed
on neighborhood concerns. Today’s Crown City
has come a long way from its affluent roots; it’s
a diverse city with vibrant communities and a
keen awareness of history.
210
LAKE
many low-and-middle income families, most
of whom were minorities. By the 1960s, a city
founded by abolitionists was heavily segregated, and a place renowned for its beauty and
climate faced serious environmental concerns;
all was not well in the Crown City.
COLORADO
31 HUB
DEL MAR
Andy’s Coffee Shop,
The Saga hotel neon sign
Mad Men (Season 4),
Transformers (2007)
Blame by Michelle Huneven
“Pasadena” by John
Paul Young
28. BARD’S THEATER
28
Bard’s Theater
(Academy Cinemas)
Divided into a six-screen complex in 1984, this was
once a 1700-seat movie palace opened in 1924.
Sadly, little is left of the original architecture from
Pasadena’s longest-running movie theater (although
the terrazzo entrance still remains). Designed by
prolific architect Lewis A. Smith, who did the nearby
Rialto Theater in South Pasadena, the Highland
Theater in Highland Park and the beloved Vista
Theater in Los Feliz, the theater has had many name
changes (Bard’s Egyptian, the Colorado Theatre) and
renovations. A 1940s redo replaced the theater’s
original Egyptian Revival style with a more contemporary Streamline Moderne; the grand theater
hosted star-studded previews up until the 1960s.
29. GIDDINGS HOUSE , 1878
29
Site of the Giddings House
Corner of Colorado Blvd. and Holliston Ave.
Iowan Joshua Reed Giddings moved to Pasadena in
1874 and was one of the town’s original settlers. (Like
other town founders, the Giddings family had links
to the abolitionist movement.) His family home was
located at 1318 E. Colorado and was famous for its
mulberry tree, which provided much-needed shade
in the summer and served as the site for many of the
town’s early gatherings. The home was razed in 1956;
today a mile marker designates its former location.
55
30
Holliston Avenue Methodist
Church (Community Church
at Holliston)
In 1887, the first incarnation of Pasadena’s First
Methodist Church, an impressive Gothic-style building with a 140-foot tower, was built on the corner of
Colorado and Marengo. After the tower was blown
off during a windstorm that also collapsed the roof, a
new church was built on the same site in 1901. Made
of brick with a Sespe sandstone veneer, that structure was dismantled in the mid-1920s and moved to
this location.
31
Pasadena City College/
Pasadena High School
When the first three buildings of what was then
Pasadena High School were built in 1912, they were
considered to be “in the country.” Today, these three
buildings remain (one of them is named after social
worker Jane Addams) in the campus’ central quad
although they were remodeled in the 1930s, and
much of their original Beaux Arts ornamentation
removed. In 1924, a junior college was established
on campus that eventually became today’s Pasadena
City College.
56
31. PASADENA CITY COLLEGE
32
Saga Motor Hotel
This fabulous Mid-Century Modern motel, built in
1959, was designed by local architect Harold Zook
to appeal to passing motorists on what was still
Route 66 at the time. (The gorgeous neon sign is
designated as a Pasadena Historic Sign.) A familiar
landmark, it remains a great spot for watching the
annual Rose Parade. According to the Los Angeles
Conservancy,“…the Saga Motor Court is a proud
reminder of the golden age of motel design.”
57
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a historic guide to pasadena

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