richard o gden

RICHARD OGDEN
Famous for Fine Jewellery
Welcome to this year's collection of fine jewellery
We have included a wide range of pieces to showcase the diversity
of our collection, and are confident that you will find that special
item to enhance any occasion, whether it is for you to wear or to
give as a present.
The heart of our business is our team of craftsmen, who keep alive
centuries old skills of making, restoring and remodelling jewellery.
Recently they have created some beautiful, fresh designs from
jewellery that is no longer fashionable. Examples are the two large
diamond cluster rings on page 5, and the diamond cluster earrings
on page 11, made from a bar brooch that lived at the back of a
dressing table drawer. Why not bring your forgotten pieces to us for
a chat? We would be delighted to give them a new lease of life.
Cover: we have chosen this exquisite
aquamarine and diamond clip brooch
for the star role on our front cover. The
aquamarine displays an exceptional
colour and weighs a breath taking 75
carats. The stylised surmount is set with
a riot of brilliant cut diamonds and
graduating tapered baguette diamonds,
mounted in platinum. The back of the
brooch reveals an intricate platinum
mounted honeycomb structure, which
acts like a grid to hold the diamonds.
Such details help establish its age and
country of origin: almost certainly 1950s
America.
The back cover features an equally
spectacular item. Look closely and you
will see that the inside of this Victorian
turquoise gold bracelet is made of tiny
panels, each one minutely articulated.
Note also the precision of the delicate
rope border. It is truly wonderful to wear,
almost organic on the wrist. It can be
dated to circa 1875 (£11,000).
We can also create something new to mark an anniversary or
to commemorate an event. The inspiration can come from a
gemstone, a photograph or even a cherished pet; one recent
commission was inspired by a weather vane that had special
significance for the couple. We spend time talking to you, so that
we truly understand what you desire from the commissioned item.
Then, we create a piece of jewellery that is unique for you,
a treasure for the rest of your life and a wonderful
memento to leave to your family.
We hope you will enjoy browsing through
our collection and look forward to
welcoming you at our premises
in the Burlington Arcade.
A pair of articulated ruby and
diamond set earrings with a pearl
drop section (£13,000.) The baroque
shape pearls are from the South
Seas. Bound to attract attention.
4
5
£30,000
£8,750
£4,500
£12,000
£18,500
£7,000
£3,750
£13,000
£2,250
£4,550
This imposing Victorian diamond pendant
brooch can be considered a ‘lucky
survivor’. Many similar items were broken
up, with the largest stones recut or reset
into jewellery more in tune with the fashion
of the moment. A rare find.
The marquise shape openwork ring is a
most unusual example of the creativity of
early 20th century craftsmanship, using
diamonds ranging in colour from white
and lemon to sherry and cinnamon.
Fine opals sparkle with a kaleidoscope
of colours. Rotate a stone between your
fingers and you should see the different
colours twinkling in the light; if you see
strong flashes of red, you are holding
one of the best opals.
6
7
poa
£16,000
£9,500
£30,000
£19,000
poa
poa
£30,000
poa
Georgian and early Victorian jewellery
is characterised by the ‘cut down
setting’ using silver to enhance the
whiteness of the brilliant cut diamonds,
and gold to provide strength at the
back. Around 1900, craftsmen started to
replace the softer silver with platinum, and
were thus able to create even finer settings,
an example being this delicate Edwardian
openwork heart pendant.
Large cushion cut diamonds have become
rare, as many were recut into brilliant cut
diamonds when fashion in jewellery changed
at the beginning of the 20th century. The
Georgian style cluster rings below are both set
with a cushion cut centre stone, the larger one
weighing 5.06 carats, the smaller 3.03 carats.
8
9
£5,700
£2,600
£3,600
£6,750
£800
£2,600
£1,450
£4,500
£895
£7,200
£3,350
£19,500
£2,475
£17,800
£4,750
£4,350
£7,800
£2,720
£1,950
£10,500
£5,400
£15,000
1.53 cts
£22,500
Burmese
£6,400
£2,475
£3,800
£5,700
£4,950
We love rubies for their subtle colour
variations. For example, the Burmese
ruby (2.03 cts) displays an exceptionally
vivid colour; the centre stone in the
second ruby and diamond three stone
ring is a natural, untreated ruby (1.53 cts)
reminiscent of red garnet.
We are very fortunate to be able to rely
upon a team of experienced craftsmen
who can recreate the intricate settings
typical of period jewellery. This selection
of rings and earrings is in the style of
early 20th century jewellery.
10
11
£12,000
£25,000
Tiffany
£6,100
£11,000
poa
£11,000
£15,000
£4,800
Aquamarine
£3,400
£30,000
£25,000
£7,800
£3,550
Art Deco is currently experiencing a burst
of interest. Here we are showing various
vintage line bracelets and a few modern
reproductions. With its rectangular cut
gemstones and straight lines, the line
bracelet is still as popular as when it was
created, around 1915 – 1920.
12
13
£26,400
est. 10 cts
poa
3.01 cts
£6,000
£4,800
£11,500
£11,000
poa
3.03 cts
£24,000
Boucheron
£8,000
£8,000
Diamonds come in all shapes, sizes and
colours. The majority of diamonds over
one carat are certificated. It is unusual for
smaller stones to be graded because of
the cost involved. We are happy to advise
you on how to proceed should you wish
to have your own diamonds certificated.
Verdura, the New York based jeweller,
created the gold curb link bracelet
for Greta Garbo, wanting to give her
a ‘comfortable classic’. These late 20th
century interpretations of Verdura’s
original design are more flamboyant:
the links are set with diamonds, rubies
(7.24 cts) and sapphires (7.97 cts).
The visual impact of the coloured
gemstones is enhanced by the black
oxydised 18ct white gold setting.
14
15
£5,000
£2,965
£2,975
£5,275
£2,650
£3,400
£3,750
£14,000
£3,600
£3,500
£6,450
£3,895
£4,200
£5,200
est. 3 cts
£2,330
£2,500
Earrings are a wonderful accessory,
often understated but exquisitely
crafted little miniatures. A close look
reveals the delicate mille grain set
diamonds typical of jewellery made
before the Great War. You will also
notice the pair of pre-1900 earrings,
recognisable by the large clusters of
old and rose cut diamonds totalling
an estimated 3 carats. Originally
these earrings would have been set
with natural Oriental pearls.
A delicate pendant with six natural
Oriental pearls, calibré cut rubies and
diamonds, circa 1900. The leaf motif is
reminiscent of Belle Epoque jewellery,
the elegant curves surrounding the
centre pearl are typically Edwardian.
16
17
£12,000
4.28 cts
poa
10.54 cts
poa
Blue sapphires are the most popular
among the prime colour gemstones.
The vast majority of those mined today
receive heat treatment to enhance
their colour. We are very fortunate to
have several natural, untreated
sapphires, and can advise you on
whether it is worth having the
gemstones in your heirlooms tested for
origin and evidence of treatment.
Certificated natural, untreated
sapphires, alongside rubies and
emeralds, have recently fetched
premium prices.
Aquamarines can be found in large
sizes and are thus ideal as centre stones
in dress rings. Brazil’s Santa Maria mine is
reputed to be the source of the finest
aquamarines. Note their subtle colour
differences. The aquamarine in the
1930s ring shows a slight metallic blue,
the one in the 1920s ring a greenish hue
reminiscent of the sea. This colour is
difficult to find and typical of
aquamarines that have not been
enhanced by heat treatment.
£24,000
£8,550
c 1930
poa
32.50 cts
£3,600
c 1920
£4,800
Cartier
£8,750
£3,450
£2,250
18
19
£3,500
£8,950
£4,250
£7,500
£7,500
3.54 cts
£5,450
£8,500
£7,150
£8,900
£17,000
£1,050
£3,850
£4,500
£6,825
Sapphires are generally associated
with the colour blue, but they can be
found in many different and often
unusual colours. Above, we have a
cushion cut purple sapphire (3.54 cts)
surrounded by brilliant cut diamonds,
£4,100
2.89 cts
£4,500
and also a violet sapphire (2.89 cts)
flanked by baguette cut diamonds.
The third ring in this group is set with
a translucent silver green chrysoberyl.
A very subtle colour.
£1,750
£895
£6,750
£10,250
£1,800
£5,100
Tanzanite
Sapphire rings and earrings are our
most popular items of jewellery. Note
the subtle colour differences between
the sapphires, varying from light blue to
cornflower and royal blue. Most of our
sapphires are of Sri Lankan origin.
20
21
£21,000
13.85 cts
£9,000
£32,000
£8,500
£6,900
£18,000
£6,600
poa
4.36 cts
£3,300
£16,000
£11,000
Craftsmanship was at its finest during
the Edwardian era, when platinum
replaced silver and settings could be
made as delicate as filigree lace.
These items are all replicas of early
20th century jewels, but show that
the skills are still alive to work to such
exacting standards.
£2,400
£9,900
22
23
£8,500
£11,500
poa
poa
set of three
£30,000
This exceptional set of bangles would
have enabled its owner to accessorise
any outfit. The sapphires and rubies are
Burmese, the emeralds Colombian, all
mounted in 18ct gold. Being marked
‘750’, this set is probably from the
Continent, circa 1890.
£15,000
set of three
24
25
£12,500
£5,775
Mellerio
The trefoil gold brooch with cabochon
garnets, is by Mellerio, the oldest
surviving family jewellery company in
Europe, founded in 1513. The brooch
has been dated to circa 1860.
In Victorian England, the serpent
symbolised wisdom and protected
against all evils. This example with a
heart was probably given as a love
token. The cabochon garnets for the
head and pendant section would
have been cut and polished, then set
on a foiled background to ensure
excellent light reflection. The magnified
image shows the intricate diamond
decoration applied to the cabochon
garnets. Snake jewellery in this style was
created between the 1850s and 1870s,
and a fitted case can often help with
dating.
26
27
£950
£2,000
£24,000
c 1870
£29,000
c 1870
£8,900
c 1870
The fashion for snake jewellery in 19th
century England began when Prince
Albert proposed to his fiancée with a
ring in the shape of a snake, the head
set with emeralds. For Queen Victoria
the serpent became associated with
eternal love.
£23,000
Another example of a Victorian love
token is this very special heart locket
pendant, set with a large Ceylon
sapphire. The blue glass in the back
of the locket is responsible for the
subtle blue hue on the rose cut
diamonds surrounding the centre
sapphire. Circa 1870.
28
29
£6,750
£2,500
£4,550
£4,000
£4,000
£1,700
£25,000
£2,400
£1,850
£5,100
£1,700
A beautifully understated sapphire and
diamond necklace with matching
earrings (£25,000 the set). Of particular
note is the excellent colour matching
of the sapphires. Their weight is an
estimated 10.50 carats (necklace) and
3.50 carats (earrings). The weight of the
brilliant cut diamonds in the necklace is
8 carats. Equally understated is the
Edwardian cluster ring. The centre stone
looks like a topaz but the sparkle gives
it away: it is a cushion cut, champagne
coloured diamond weighing one carat.
£1,850
£1,850
A butterfly for Madame? A selection
of gem set and enamelled butterfly
brooches, some with opaque, others with
transparent wings, an effect achieved
with plique-à-jour enamelling. This
technique was mastered to perfection
by Art Nouveau craftsmen. An adorable
little present to compliment any outfit.
30
31
£1,875
£4,375
£6,750
These fine Victorian pieces embody
many of the features that distinguish
Scottish jewellery. The colours of the
indigenous gemstones - lemon and
orange citrines, multicoloured agates are striking; equally striking are the
geometric patterns. The bracelet is a
particularly fine example of agate inlay
work. Every plaque has been cut
individually to fit into the gold frame,
itself finely engraved with Celtic motifs.
The Sgian-dubh brooch is an ornate kilt
pin; the design is based upon a
traditional Scottish dagger. Pronounce
the word ‘ski:en doo’. The 'horn' is an
exceptional moss agate gold
vinaigrette, set with two facetted
citrines. The tip is shaped like a thistle,
and the year 1879 is engraved in the
gold shield at the base.
32
33
£9,750
£10,500
£9,500
£9,000
Fontana
c 1955
In the foreground, the lovely rose gold
bracelet is signed Fontana, a highly
respected Swiss jeweller who settled in
Paris in the 1840s, where he developed
an enthusiastic clientele among the
Parisian bourgeoisie. Famed for the
quality of his craftsmanship, the business
expanded and eventually passed to his
descendants, who continued to
£12,000
produce luxurious jewellery under the
name of Ch. Fontana & Cie. The
other two, highly flamboyant
bracelets are also from the 1950s and
European, but not French. We have
examined them in detail and the
remarkable similarity of the unusual
scallop shaped links convinces us that
they are from the same workshop.
In the 1950s there was a growing
demand for flamboyant jewellery,
moving away from the austerity of the
1940s. Yellow gold became the
preferred metal. This sapphire and
diamond set gold bracelet epitomises
the 1950s taste for ostentatious designs.
34
35
Cufflinks are an essential accessory for
a gentleman, and many elegant women
favour them also. Here is a small selection
from our extensive range of English
made enamelled silver links with swivel
fittings. The two colour enamel oval links
are set with small brilliant cut diamonds
(£660). Other links are gem set with pearl
or mother of pearl (£260). Please enquire
about other colours.
36
37
Paul Flato
c 1960
Mario
Buccellati
c 1960
Boucheron
c 1950
Jules Wiese
c 1880
Hermès
c 1970
American
c 1930
c 1960
Bulgari
c 1980
Signed cufflinks from the 20th century
have become highly collectable. Some
of them are miniature works of art,
incorporating skills as various as stone
cutting, setting, carving, engraving and
enamelling. Prices on application.
French
1950s
French
1930s
1930s
1920s
Marcus & Co
c 1910
Marcus & Co was founded by Herman
Marcus who emigrated from 1850s
Germany to design for Tiffany, New
York, and then struck out on his own.
When Marcus died in 1899, the
company had moved on to Art
Nouveau, applying the brand’s
J. E. Caldwell
1922
1928
signature style to pieces such as the
pair of links featured above. The mother
of pearl faces are set with a centre
seed pearl, engraved with a stylised
petal motif, and framed by a wreath
surround in 14 carat gold.
38
This gorgeous necklace, dated circa
1875, depicts the ancient Greek symbol
of a serpent devouring its own tale
(Ouroboros). For the Victorians it was
a symbol of eternity. The turquoise
beads are set in gold to give the effect
of scales, and the eyes are cabochon
rubies (£14,500).
RICHARD OGDEN
28 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0NX
Telephone: 020 7493 9136 Email: jewels@richardogden.com
www.richardogden.com
Opening Hours:
Monday – Friday 9.30 – 5.30pm
Saturday 9.30 – 5.30pm