u - Costume Society of America

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The Midwestern Region of the Costume Society of America invites you to the
42nd Annual Meeting and National Symposium
THE FULL CLEVELAND
May 25-28, 2016
Gayle Strege and Marlise Schoeny, Symposium Co-Chairs
Barbara Trout, President, Midwestern Region
Enjoy a week's activities of recent historic dress research findings through
presentations, panel discussions, and exhibitions—including research, design
and virtual exhibitions—in addition to professional development sessions and
hands-on workshops. A silent auction and marketplace will be complemented
with visits to local museums as well as opportunities to visit old friends and
greet new members. All before the city is inundated with political
conventioneers in July!
THE CITY
Cleveland, Ohio: a major city on the southern shore of Lake Erie where industrial
grit meets world class cultural sophistication with a generous helping of ethnic
diversity. Clevelanders have never followed the herd and never followed anyone
else's rules; they made their own, making this the perfect venue for individual
self-expression. The city where rock ‘n’ roll was born alongside the Cleveland
Orchestra’s Severance Hall was never mainstream, flashy, trendy, nor perfect.
And they prefer it that way—a city with world-class experiences without the
world-class ego. You’re welcome!
In case you missed our invitation at the San Antonio meeting, you can see the
Cleveland video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgqD-Of0G-8
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THE HOTEL
The Wyndham Cleveland at Playhouse Square is the conference hotel. Located in the
vibrant theater district, at 1260 Euclid Avenue, right on glittering Playhouse Square, it
is across the street from the Cleveland Play House Theater and next door to the former
Halle Brothers Department Store building. This 205 room boutique-style hotel is also
just down the block from the round “Rotunda” building which houses Heinen’s Grocery
as well as a Coffee Bar, and only a 20 minute walk from the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame.
Yes, there is a giant crystal chandelier over Playhouse Square.
THE WEATHER
Cleveland weather for May 23-29 is 70-72 F with average lows of 55-58 F. Temps are
from the official weather station inland at the airport. Remember we will be near a
large body of water cooling things off, so having a jacket or sweater will be in order.
Cleveland can experience light to moderate rain, so come prepared.
GETTING THERE
By Car: Cleveland is at the intersection of 3 major interstate highways, I90 from the
E/NE/W/NW, or I71 or 77 from the south. Check hotel website for detailed directions. Daily
overnight valet ($24) or self-parking ($15) available
By Bus: Megabus serves Cleveland and the Greyhound station is practically around the block
By Train: Yes, it’s possible! Amtrak services Cleveland with four trains daily and Lakefront
Station is just a short distance from Play House Square
By Air: Cleveland Hopkins International Airport and taxi to hotel or
A1 Airport Limo $25 to Downtown Cleveland hotels, or
UBERX: enter code “THISISCLE” to get first ride free up to $20, or
Red Line Rapid Train to downtown Cleveland Public Square $2.25, transfer to free
Euclid Ave Healthline Trolley toward Louis Stokes Sta. Disembark at Euclid and E 14th
St Station. Wyndham is at 13th and Euclid.
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KEYNOTE SPEAKER
We are excited to have fashion writer
Teri Agins as the Keynote Speaker for The
Full Cleveland: Dress as Communication,
Self-Expression, and Identity.
Ms. Agin’s latest book, Hijacking the
Runway, How Celebrities are Stealing the
Spotlight from Fashion Designers,
seemed the perfect vehicle to kick off
our symposium related to
communication, self-expression, and
identity. What expresses it all in one
word better than celebrity?
Agins is a freelance writer and the “Ask Teri” columnist at The Wall Street
Journal. She also has written for Vogue, Essence, Town & Country, Fortune and
Harper’s Bazaar. Teri is a popular lecturer and has been a TV guest on “Oprah”,
“Project Runway”, “The View,” “Full Frontal Fashion,” “The Today Show,” CNN,
CNBC and Fox Business News.
A Kansas City native, Agins first
joined the Wall Street Journal in New
York as a reporter in 1984. She
developed WSJ’s fashion beat
beginning in 1989 to cover the
fashion industry from a business
perspective and remained full-time
with the Journal until 2009. Her first
book The End of Fashion, The Mass
Marketing of the Clothing Business,
written for Harpercollins in 1999,
continues to be used in university
fashion and marketing courses.
Agins has won a number of journalism awards from the Council of Fashion
Designers of America, the Accessories Council, Columbia University, University of
Missouri and the Newswomen’s Club of New York. She is a graduate of Wellesley
College and has a master’s degree in journalism from the University of Missouri.
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SYMPOSIUM SCHEDULE
*All times and sessions are tentative and subject to change.
The following events are held at the Wyndham Cleveland Playhouse Square unless
otherwise specified.
MONDAY, MAY 23RD
6:00pm-8:00pm
Angels Project Volunteers Meeting and Reception –
Ukrainian Museum-Archives
8:00am-6:00pm
Angels Project – Ukrainian Museum-Archives
7:30-8:30pm
National Board Dinner – Roxy
8:15am-7:00pm
Registration – Prefunction
TUESDAY, MAY 24TH
6:00pm-10:00pm
National Board Meeting – Embassy
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25TH
9:00am-12:00pm
Board Meeting – Embassy
9:00am-12:00pm
Professional Development Workshop Session – Roxy
Care and Handling of Costume
Sarah C. Stevens, Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC
8:30am-4:30pm
12:00pm-2:00pm
Fame Museum
1:00pm-4:00pm
1:00pm-4:00pm
1:00pm-4:00pm
Pre-symposium Tour Session – All Day Kent State
University with optional TechStyle workshop (Kent, Ohio)
Pre-symposium Tour Session – Rock and Roll Hall of
Endowment Trustees Meeting – Embassy
Professional Development Workshop Session – Roxy
Learning to Fosshape: An Inexpensive Alternative for
Costume Mounts
Cynthia Amnéus, Cincinnati Art Museum
Professional Development Workshop Session – Hanna
Kleibacker Techniques for Successful Bias Cut Construction
Joycelyn Burdett, Villa Maria College
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2:30pm-4:00pm
4:30pm-5:30pm
6:00pm-7:00pm
7:00pm-8:30pm
Prof. Development Workshop Panel Session – Allen
Help (Maybe?) Wanted: Navigating the Costume Work Force
Carmen N. Keist, Western Illinois University
Marcella Martin, Philadelphia University
Petra Slinkard, Chicago History Museum
Laura L. Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San
Francisco
First Time Attendees Meet and Greet – Outdoor Terrace
Keynote Speaker: Teri Agins – Palace West
Full Cleveland Opening Reception – Palace East
Joan Severa/Dressed for the Photographer fundraiser
– Stillman and Prefunction
THURSDAY, MAY 26TH
7:00am-8:30am
Breakfast – Palace East/West (Regional Presidents
/Treasurers meet)
8:30am-10:00am
Concurrent Juried Papers – State
Communication
1. Historical Accuracy and the Communication of Theatrical
Costume Design
Sara Jablon, Iowa State University
Eulanda Sanders, Iowa State University
2. Fashion and the Art of Pochoir
April Calahan, Fashion Institute of Technology
Cassidy Zachary, Independent Researcher
3. For the Love of Oscar
Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota
Barbara Heinemann, University of Minnesota
Kathryn Riley, University of Minnesota
8:15am-12:15pm
8:30am-10:00am
Registration – Prefunction
Concurrent Juried Papers – Stillman
Historical/Cultural Identity-Headwear
1. Crowns of Gold: The Origins of the Yellow Jewish Hat and
the Construction of its Symbolism
Leslie Yarmo, Salisbury University
2. From the Fanny Bilson to the Madame Wallman: Milliners
On and Off the Pedestal
Nadine Stewart, Montclair State University
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10:00am-10:10am
10:10am-12:10pm
12:15pm-1:15pm
1:45pm
2:00pm-5:00pm
3:30pm-5:00pm
4:15pm
5:00pm-7:00pm
5:30pm-7:30pm
3. Connection to the Movement: African-American Women’s
Hair During the Civil Rights Movement
Ashley Garrin, Iowa State University
Sara Marcketti, Iowa State University
Break
Plenary Presentations – Palace East and West
Milia Davenport Publication Award: Wearable Prints
1760-1860: History, Materials and Mechanics
Susan Greene
Costume Design Award: Tartuffe co-produced by the
Berkeley Repertory Theatre, South Coast Repertory
Theatre, and Shakespeare Theatre
Sonia Berlovitz
Lunch – Palace East and West (Buffet in Prefunction)
Buses leave for Cleveland Museum of Art and Western
Reserve Historical Society
Explore Cleveland Museum of Art and Western Reserve
Historical Society
Tours at 2:15, 2:45, 3:15, 3:45, 4:15 and 4:45pm
Silent Auction / Marketplace Set-up – Palace East / Stillman
First bus from tours returns to hotel
Design Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy
Special Interest Group and Committee Meetings – Roxy,
Hanna, Allen and State (see p.29)
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FRIDAY, MAY 27TH
7:00am-8:30am
Breakfast with your region/regional board meetings –
State, Allen, Roxy, Hanna and Outdoor Terrace
8:30am-1:15pm
Viewing of Design Showcase – Embassy
8:30am-6:00pm
8:30am-5:30pm
8:30am-5:30pm
8:30am-9:00am
9:00am-10:30am
9:00am-10:30am
10:30am-10:45am
10:45am-12:15pm
Registration – Prefunction
Silent Auction – Palace East
Marketplace – Stillman and Prefunction
Optional Meeting Time – Roxy, Hanna, Allen and Outdoor
Terrace
Concurrent Juried Papers / Virtual Exhibit – State
Historical/Cultural Identity
1. Lost Skirts of the Greek Islands
Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island
2. The Hakka Traditional Dowry
Leigh Southward, University of Arkansas
3. The Virginia Man – Virtual Exhibit
Kristen Stewart, The Valentine Museum
Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace West
Historical Identity - 18th Century
1. Clothing and Female Identity: Old Bailey Trials, Revelations
of Self, Dress, and Meaning in Eighteenth-Century London
Lynn Sorge, Fountain School of Performing Arts
2. Macaroni Dress Variants, Social Status and Self Expression:
Searching for Non-Satirical Visual Evidence
Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta
Michael McCarty, Colonial Williamsburg
Mark D. Hutter, Colonial Williamsburg
3. The Sterb-Spiegel: A Fashionable Eighteenth-Century
Dance of Death
Karin J. Bohleke, Shippensburg University
Break - Prefunction
Concurrent Juried Papers – State
Performance Identity
1. Between the Picturesque and the Fashionable: Costuming
the King of Cadonia, 1908
Kirstin Purtich, Independent Scholar
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10:45am-12:15pm
12:15pm-1:00pm
1:00pm-2:25pm
2:35pm-3:30pm
3:30pm-3:40pm
3:40pm-5:10pm
3:40pm-5:10pm
2. Sovietizing French Revolutionary Dress for the Ballet
Stage: Vasili Vainonen’s Flames of Paris
Linden Hill, Independent Researcher
3. The Clothes Make the Lawyer: Intertextuality and
Aspirational Dressing in Better Call Saul
Lauren Boumaroun, University of CA-Los Angeles
Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace West
Historical Identity - 19th Century
1. “Ways of Comfort”: Women’s Dress for Long-Distance Train
Travel in America, 1870-1915
Rebecca Jumper Matheson
2. “Through the Lens of Fashion”: an Analysis of Dress in
Early Victorian Daguerreotypes
M. Elaine Mackay, Black Creek Pioneer Village
3. Mirabel, Evelyn and Surface: The Story of Three Costumes
Worn by Actor James E. Murdoch
Adam Macpharlain, Cincinnati Art Museum
Boxed Lunch – Outdoor Terrace, Roxy, Hanna, State, Allen
Annual Meeting, Awards Presentations and Invitation
to Portland – Palace West
Plenary Presentation – Palace West
Stella Blum Student Research Grant: Cosplay: Creating
the Body Fantastic
Matthew Lee Hale, Indiana University
Break
Concurrent Juried Panel – Cultural Identity – State
When Thai Style Became High Style: Transformation in Thai
Royal Dress
Melissa Leventon, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles
Dale Carolyn Gluckman, Queen Sirikit Museum of
Textiles
Sarttarat Muddin, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles
Piyanan Petchaburanin, Queen Sirikit Museum of
Textiles
Concurrent Prof. Development Panel – Palace West
Managing Costume Collections: An Inquisitive and Interactive
Panel for the Collector, Historian, Teacher, Curator, Designer
or Collection Manager
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Louise-Coffey-Webb, Author, Managing Costume
Collections
Bobi Garland, Private Collection Consultant
Susan Neill, The Field Museum of Natural History
3:45pm-5:10pm
Cleveland Playhouse Tour (not confirmed)
6:00pm-7:30pm
Special Interest Group and Committee Meetings – Roxy,
Hanna, Allen and State (see p.29)
7:30pm-9:00pm
Silent Auction Pick-Up – Palace East
5:30pm
6:00pm-7:30pm
8:30pm-10:00pm
Silent Auction Ends – Palace East
Research Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy
Endowment Board of Trustees Reception (by invitation
only, please)
SATURDAY, MAY 28TH
7:00am-8:30am
Breakfast – Palace East (Regional Membership Chairs meet)
8:00am-8:30am
Research Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy
8:00am-1:00pm
Registration – Prefunction
8:00am-10:00am
Silent Auction Pick-up – Stillman
9:00am-10:30am
Concurrent Juried Papers/Virtual Exhibit – Palace West
Historical Identity – 20th Century
1. 50 Years of Designing for Mrs. Main Street America: The
Story of Elizabeth “Libby” Payne
Caroline Surrarrer, Kent State University
Catherine Leslie, Kent State University
2. Paris in Ohio: An Analysis of a Poiret Personal Print
Sarah Finley, Fashion Institute of Technology
3. Ingénue to Icon: 70 Years of Fashion from the Collection of
Marjorie Merriweather Post – Virtual Exhibit
Howard Vincent Kurtz, Hillwood Museum
8:30am-10:45am
9:00am-10:30am
Research Exhibitions Viewing – Embassy
Concurrent Juried Papers – State
Historical/Cultural Identity - Footwear
1. Fresh Kicks: Sneakers and the Construction of Masculinity
Elizabeth Semmelhack, Bata Shoe Museum
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2. “Beach Kicks”: The Role of Rubber Bathing Shoes in Early
20th Century Swimwear
Arlesa Shephard, SUNY-Buffalo State
10:30am-10:45am
Break
10:45am-12:30pm
Professional Development Session: Civilian Fashions in
the Civil War
Julie Burnsides, Independent Researcher
10:45am-12:15pm
12:30pm-1:30pm
1:30pm-3:00pm
1:30pm-3:00pm
3:00pm-3:10pm
3:10pm-4:40pm
Scholars Roundtable – Palace West
Everyone Their Own Curator: Professionalism and Authority
in the Digital Age
Jo Paoletti, Chair, Scholars Roundtable Committee
Virginia Heaven, Columbia College Chicago
Sara Hume, Kent State University Museum
Deborah Kraak, Independent Museum Professional
Ingrid Mida, Ryerson Fashion Research Collection
Lunch – Palace East and West
Concurrent Juried Panel – Meaning – State
Research Panel: Shifting Semiotics: A Panel Discussion on the
Future Interpretation of Dress as New Generations Change
our Views on Meaning
Leslie Littell, Oakland University
Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University
Jennifer Yurchisin, University of Minnesota
Concurrent Professional Development Panel – Stillman
Using Historic Costume in the Classroom: Examples From the
Field
Marlise Schoeny, The Ohio State University
Trina Gannon, Ohio University
Constance Korosec, Ursuline College
Sherri Saines, Ohio University
Break
Concurrent Juried Papers / Virtual Exhibit– State
Methodology
1. Recognizing American Arts and Crafts Dress and
Accessories
Abby Lillethun, Montclair State University
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3:10pm-4:40pm
4:45pm-5:45pm
5:45pm-6:15pm
2. The Dress Detective: Revealing Identity Through a Slow
Approach to Seeing
Ingrid Mida, Ryerson University
Alexandra Kim, Editor, Costume (UK)
3. “The Way We Wore”: An Exhibition of Clothing and
Memory – Virtual Exhibit
Sequoia D. Barnes, University of Delaware
Dilia López-Gydosh, University of Delaware
Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace East and West
Historical/Cultural Identity
1. Issues of Identity: The Dress of the Csángó Minority in
Romania
Doris Domoszlai-Lantner, Fashion Institute of
Technology
2. Maskit: Weaving a National Identity
Ya’ara Keydar, New York University
3. New Zealand’s World of Fashion Tour 1971: An Expression
of National Identity?
Jane Malthus, Otago Polytechnic and Otago Museum
Plenary Presentation – Palace East and West
Richard Martin Exhibition Award: Charles James: Beyond
Fashion
Harold Koda and Jan Reeder, Curators, The Costume
Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Concluding remarks and Break
6:15pm-7:45pm
Board of Directors Meeting – Palace East
9:00am-12:00pm
Professional Development Workshop Session:
Photography of Historic Collections – Roxy
Charity Calvin, Iowa State
Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta
SUNDAY, MAY 29TH
9:30am-2:30pm
12:00pm-2:00pm
Post-Symposium Tour Session – Kent State University
Post-Symposium Tour Session – Rock and Roll Hall of
Fame Museum
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PRE SYMPOSIUM ACTIVITIES DETAILS
CSA ANGELS PROJECT
The 2016 CSA Angels Project, the only
service project of CSA, will take place on
Tuesday, May 24th from 8am to 6pm at the
Ukrainian Museum-Archives, a site very
close to the symposium hotel. The Angels
Project has never before worked at an
ethnographic museum and this one has a
great story that will appeal to everyone.
The Ukrainian Museum-Archives has also
invited the Angels to a Monday, May 23rd
evening reception starting at 6pm at the
museum. Transportation to and from the
symposium hotel will be available on
Monday and Tuesday. All CSA members are
invited to participate. Contact Patti
Borrello, Angels Project Volunteer
Coordinator, patti.a.borrello@wmich.edu
1202 Kenilworth Ave, Cleveland, OH 44113
or 269-352-0432, to volunteer
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Yes, The Ukrainian Museum looks just like
a regular neighborhood home, and if you
are looking for something to do before the
reception, The A Christmas Story House
and Museum are located in the same
Tremont neighborhood, and open seven
days a week from 10am-5pm. The house
was recently restored to its filmdom
splendor and is open year round to the
public for tours. Directly across the street
from the house is the official A Christmas
Story House Museum, which features
original props, costumes and memorabilia
from the film, as well as hundreds of rare
behind-the-scenes photos. Among the
props and costumes are the toys from the
Higbee’s window, Randy’s snowsuit, the
chalkboard from Miss Shields’ classroom,
the family car, and the recently acquired
infamous Red Rider BB Gun. After reliving
A Christmas Story at Ralphie’s house don’t
forget to visit the museum gift shop for
your own Major Award Leg Lamp and
other great movie memorabilia. You can
even shop online for Full Cleveland
reception attire!
http://www.achristmasstoryhouse.com/
3159 W 11th St, Cleveland, OH 44109
DON’T CONFUSE THE TWO!
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PRE/POST SYMPOSIUM TOURS
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
8:30am - 4:30pm
Cost: $45
All Day Kent State University Tour with optional Tech/Style Lab
Workshop (Kent, Ohio)
Cost with workshop: $75 Workshop Limit: 29
Join us for a pre or post tour to Kent, Ohio to visit the fabulous Kent State University Museum
for a gallery and behind the scenes tour, with an optional add-on digital printing workshop at
the Fashion School’s TechStyle lab on Wednesday. Those not opting for the workshop will be
able to visit collections at the June F. Mohler Fashion Library and relive 1970 history at the
recently established May 4th National Historic Site with guided tours. Participants can also
visit Downtown Kent and the Fashion School Store for a little shopping. Welcome coffee and a
box lunch are included.
Museum and Gallery Tour:
The museum houses some 30,000 costumes and accessories and 10,000 objects of decorative
art from the mid-18th century to the present day. Selections from the collection are exhibited
in 8 galleries. On view during the pre and post conference will be:
• The Timeline of Fashion
• Focus on Fiber: Juried Objects from the Textile Arts Alliance of the Cleveland Museum of Art
• Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets
• Flapper Style: 1920s Fashion
The Museum tour includes a visit to in-progress new compact storage space for the couture
collection, and a tour of the period costume storage—something the museum rarely does.
Staff will be available to answer questions during the tour about museum and exhibition
processes. Tour also includes up-close interaction with a selection of special artifacts from the
museum’s collection.
TechStyle Lab Workshop:
Explore the digital means of reprinting historical textiles from museum archives. Experience
the process of sampling a historical textile from the Kent State University Museum. This
process is most useful for creating repair pieces for distressed garments or creating
opportunities to reintroduce historical textiles in new ways. Learn step by step the best
practices associated with selecting a garment for sampling, digital scanning procedures,
digital file preparation, and see a demonstration of the printing process. Take away a digitally
printed sample at the end of the workshop. Participation is limited to 14-15 individuals per
session. There will be one session in the morning and another in the afternoon. Knowledge of
Adobe Photoshop is helpful but not required. TechStyleLAB will provide laptops and software.
Please bring your own USB Flash Drive to save and take your work.
May 4th Visitor Center Tour and Walking Tour/ Fashion Library and Special Collections:
• On May 4, 1970, Kent State was placed in an international spotlight after a student protest
against the Vietnam War and the presence of the Ohio National Guard on campus ended in
tragedy. Visit the Center exhibit and walk the guided route.
• Visitors will go behind-the-scenes at the June F. Mohler Fashion Library and examine
original materials including the Fortunoff collection of original fabric illustrations and
swatches from the 1930s thru 1990s, and the Pauline Trigere papers including original
designer sketchbooks and collection materials from the 1940s thru 1990s.
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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 AND SUNDAY, MAY 29
12:00pm - 2:00pm
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum
Cost $20 members, $35 non-members Limit 30 each day
Space is limited to 30, but we have
tours organized for both Wednesday
and Sunday. Don’t procrastinate with
your registration if you want to go
behind the scenes!
Join us for an extremely rare and
exciting costume-themed tour of the
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame,
developed especially for CSA! The
Director of Collections will provide a
30-minute, up-close examination of
selected costumes from some of your
favorite performers. Also, the
Associate Curator will provide a 30minute costume highlight tour in the
gallery. Afterward the attendees will
be able to tour the Museum at their
leisure.
Tours begin at 1:00pm at the
museum. Depending on weather and
personal stamina, you can walk to
the Rock Hall. It is only a 20-minute
walk from the hotel. Or we have
access to the hotel shuttle (limited
seating) beginning at noon so you
can arrive early and have lunch in
the museum café. The shuttle will
also pick up and bring folks back to
the hotel. The last shuttle will leave
the Rock Hall at 3pm.
These types of tours are not available
for the average visitor. Your CSA
membership gives you this
opportunity for an exclusive glimpse
into this iconic Cleveland museum.
We are keeping this tour very affordable by not arranging for additional private
bus transportation, but are depending on people to make arrangements to get to
the museum on their own if they don’t want to walk, or if they miss the shuttle.
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SUNDAY, MAY 29
9:30am – 2:30pm
Kent State University / Museum, Kent Ohio
Cost: $35
Limit 29
Travel with us Sunday morning to Kent, Ohio to visit the fabulous Kent State University
Museum for a gallery and behind the scenes tour with Jean Druesedow and staff. The museum
will open an hour early for us, but before it does, visitors will have an opportunity to relive
history at the recently established May 4th National Historic Site and walk the guided tour.
Water and snacks provided.
May 4th Visitor Center Tour and Walking Tour 10:30-11:30
On May 4, 1970, Kent State was placed in an international spotlight after a student protest
against the Vietnam War and the presence of the Ohio National Guard on campus ended in
tragedy. View the documentary about the day on an Ipod as you walk the guided route.
Museum and Gallery Tour 11:30-1:30
The museum houses some 30,000 costumes and accessories and 10,000 objects of decorative
art from the mid-18th century to the present day. Selections from the collection are exhibited
in 8 galleries. On view during the pre and post conference will be:
• The Timeline of Fashion
• Glass: Selections from the Tarter/Miller Collection
• Focus on Fiber: Juried Objects from the Textile Arts Alliance of the Cleveland Museum of Art
• Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets
• Flapper Style: 1920s Fashion
The Museum tour includes a visit to in-progress new compact storage space for the couture
collection, and a tour of the period costume storage—something the museum rarely does.
Staff will be available to answer questions during the tour about museum and exhibition
processes. Tour also includes up-close interaction with a selection of special artifacts from the
museum’s collection.
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PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PANELS/WORKSHOPS
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
9:00am - 12noon – Roxy
Care and Handling of Costumes
Sarah C. Stevens, Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC
Materials Cost: $15
Limit: 20
This workshop will provide an
overview of the factors effecting the
preservation and care of costume and
textiles. Fibers and fabric structures
will be reviewed as well as
environmental factors such as
temperature, relative humidity, light,
pests, and mold.
Cleaning costumes and textiles using a
low-suction vacuum, gaining
experience boxing costumes, and
learning the factors to determine the
best mount to display a costume will
be explored using hands-on activities.
Participants will be provided with a
vacuum kit, preservation tips via pdf
files, and sources for supplies.
Participants will learn about
appropriate techniques for handling,
storing, and displaying collections.
SARAH C. STEVENS, Principal of Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC has been practicing textile
conservation for 20 years. After graduating from the University of Rhode Island with a M.S. in
Historic Costume and Textiles, Sarah spent a year in the Textile Conservation Department at
the Metropolitan Museum of Art and another nine months at the Cooper-Hewitt National
Design Museum, also in New York City. Since September 2000, she has been the Associate
Textile Conservator for the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic
Preservation’s Bureau of Historic Sites (Peebles Island). Zephyr Preservation Studio opened in
2010 to assist individuals and institutions with the care of their treasured costumes and
textiles.
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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
1:00pm - 4:00pm – Roxy
Learning to Fosshape: An Inexpensive Alternative for Costume Mounts
Cynthia Amnéus, Cincinnati Art Museum
Materials Cost: $35 Limit: 15
Fosshape is a material new to costume
exhibition mounting and can be used to create
inexpensive customized mounts for both
historic and contemporary fashion. While it is
ideal as an alternative for small museums or
historical societies with minimal budgets,
Fosshape has been utilized at institutions both
large and small, including the Kent State
University Museum, Cincinnati Art Museum,
The Textile Museum, and National Museum of
the American Indian.
Fosshape has been traditionally used in
theatre settings to create lightweight props,
scenic elements, puppetry, and costume
elements such as millinery and masks. It is a
felt-like, white, non-woven, heat-activated
fabric that is a 100% polyester polymer
blend. When dry or steam heat is applied to
the material, it will shrink up to 30%,
hardening and conforming to a base form. It
can be sewn by hand or machine in both its
treated and untreated state. It can be cut to
any shape, molded over forms, layered and
adhered to itself for additional strength, and
dyed, painted, and embellished.
Hopi Butterfly Dancer mannequin before dressing.
Image courtesy of Shelly Uhlir, exhibition
specialist/mount maker, National Museum of the
American Indian, Smithsonian Institution. Photo by
Conservation Staff.
Conservation testing has indicated Fosshape
is safe to use near and in direct contact with
objects although an inert barrier is
suggested for long term display or storage.1
Fosshape was subjected to the Oddy test,
Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy
(FTIR) test, XRF analysis, sulfur test using
iodine/sodium azide solution, and an acid
test using Image Permanence Institute’s A-D
Strips.2
More cost effective than traditional
mannequins, Fosshape is a versatile
material that provides an alternative choice
for costumes with many advantages to
existing types of mounts. Like polyethylene
foam or buckram, it can be customized to
the object, but is lighter, easier to work
with, and has a smoother, more objectfriendly surface. The resulting forms can
support accessories including tights, shoes,
and hats.
This 3-hour workshop will give participants
the opportunity to create a Fosshape form
of their own using the steam method. They
will learn approaches for shaping,
modifying, and customizing forms as well as
finishing techniques to ready the form for
display.
Notes
1. Megan Emery, Lab report for Oddy Test on Fosshape. Cincinnati Art Museum, 2009.
2. Charlotte Eng, Lab report for IPI, Sodium Azide Test, XRF, and FTIR on Fosshape. Los Angeles County Museum
of Art, Conservation Center, 2011.
18
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
1:00pm - 4:00pm – Hanna
Kleibacker Techniques for Successful Bias Cut Construction
Joycelyn Burdett, Villa Maria College
Materials Cost: $25
Limit: 12
Intended audience – Designers and apparel instructors who have intermediate to advanced
skills in apparel construction and strong hand sewing skills.
Charles Kleibacker, known in his days as “The Master of the Bias Cut,” worked from his
small workshop in New York City from 1960 to 1986. He specialized in softly shaped dresses,
which he sold to socialites and high-end stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bendel’s in
New York City. Kleibacker was trained in the couture techniques used in the top salons of New
York and Paris. He was an assistant designer in Paris to Antonio del Castillo of the House of
Lanvin from 1954 to 1956 and later was an assistant to Eva Rosencranz at Nettie Rosenstein
in NY. However, none of these experiences taught him what was needed to create the designs
that he envisioned, softly flowing and shapely bias dresses.
Charles was inspired by the beautiful bias cut creations of
Madeleine Vionnet. When he opened his own studio in 1960,
he was determined to design garments with this same
elegance and grace. Since Vionnet was no longer in business
and nothing was yet published about her techniques, he had
to rely on his own powers of observation and reason to
understand and overcome the challenges of constructing
garments cut on the bias.
The solutions that Kleibacker developed were unique and
also satisfied his exacting standards of quality and drape.
Though he was producing ready-to-wear, his approach to
production in his workshop used couture techniques.
Garments cut on the bias are a challenge for even highly
skilled dressmakers; often hemlines sag and seam lines
ripple due to the fluidity of bias. The beauty of bias is also its
bane. What is the trick to taming seam lines on the bias?
Kleibacker solved this engineering challenge in a unique and
ingenious way.
This class will demonstrate the construction techniques developed by Kleibacker. Patterns and
Kleibacker garments will be displayed and discussed. Students will learn why Kleibacker always
placed the closure of the dress on the straight grain and the specific challenge presented with
asymmetrical bias designs. They will learn the couture way of marking the seam lines as well as
the importance of basting from the outside. “Holding in” and stretching the bias seams in select
places in the garment is unique to Kleibacker construction and is the trick to preventing
drooping over time. Students will apply these techniques and more in this session by producing
a bias sleeve from a pattern Charles developed and perfected over several years. Students will
also learn to do one of his signature design elements, perfect skinny bias strings.
All information and techniques were acquired through oral interviews by the author with Charles
Kleibacker between December 2006 and June 2007. Photographs gift of Kleibacker.
19
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
2:30pm-4:00pm – Allen
Help (Maybe?) Wanted: Navigating the Costume Work Force
Carmen N. Keist, Western Illinois University
Marcella Martin, Philadelphia University
Petra Slinkard, Chicago History Museum
Laura L. Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco
Cost: $10
Limit: 40
Whether housed in a museum, by a
university, or in a designer archive, the care
and study of historic costume collections
offers myriad career choices; however, the
job market often does not match the number
of emerging professionals looking for their
dream career. Interest in clothing exhibited
as objects in museums is ever growing, as
evidenced by internationally-known, blockbuster shows like “Alexander McQueen:
Savage Beauty,” which has already been
displayed at The Metropolitan Museum of
Art and was recently exhibited at The
Victoria and Albert Museum. Both museums
documented record-breaking attendance. 1
Nevertheless, the curators often creating
these exhibitions arrived in their position
through a roundabout way without a clear,
linear career path. Costume collections can
also be found in universities, colleges, and
communities across the United States and
can range from a few hundred items to
thousands. Oftentimes, the faculty or staff in
charge of these collections are also expected
to teach, research, and serve their
community. 2 Curatorship, regardless of
setting, is a hard career to navigate with
many twists and turns.
The purpose of this professional
development panel is to provide guidance
and advice to incoming and current students,
recent graduates, and emerging
professionals looking to pursue careers
working with historic costume collections.
With diverse backgrounds and career
training, the panelists will address the
idiosyncrasies of their respective positions in
academia, museums, and the private
sector. From integrating historic collections
into undergraduate history of costume
courses to utilizing collections to create
exhibitions and programs that form a hub of
scholarship and learning for local, national
and international audiences, the full range of
their respective job functions will be
explored. In addition to discussing their
professional experiences and current roles,
the panelists will explore educational
options with different degree programs to
follow; provide advice on networking,
interviewing and resume writing; and
address non-traditional career paths. This
90-minute panel will conclude with a
question-and-answer session.
1
Eliza Brooke, “’Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty’
Beat Attendance Records in London, Too,” Fashionista,
August 4, 2015, accessed September 23, 2015,
http://fashionista.com/2015/08/savage-beauty-victoriaalbert
2
Sara B Marcketti, Janet E Fitzpatrick, Carmen N Keist,
and Sara J Kadolph, ”University Historic Clothing
Museums and Collections: Practices and Strategies.” The
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 29, no. 3 (2011):
248-262.
20
FRIDAY, MAY 27
3:40pm-5:10pm – State
Managing Costume Collections: An Inquisitive and Interactive Panel for the
Collector, Historian, Teacher, Curator, Designer or Collection Manager
Louise Coffey-Webb, Costume Consultant, Los Angeles
Susan Neill, Exhibition Project Manager, Field Museum, Chicago
Bobi Garland, Private Collection Consultant, Los Angeles
•
•
Participants will learn strategies to address issues in their costume collections as well as a
peer network for additional collection management troubleshooting, and support postsymposium.
Attendees will complete a brief questionnaire at the start of the session that will inform
the program. Panelists will each give a presentation illustrating particular collection
challenges, unusual situations, or discoveries, followed by discussion of specific and/or
recurrent issues identified, plus open Q & A. Example topics bulleted below:
Louise Coffey-Webb (Moderator):
• Introduction of panel and session itinerary
• Some philosophies of collection management
• Mapping out plans for assessing and inventorying collections
Susan Neill:
• Considerations for creating a Collection Development Policy
• Exploring different functions of collections, e.g. preservation vs exhibition and accessibility
• Examining possible conflicts of interest between management, curatorial and conservation functions
Bobi Garland:
• Interns, work experience and volunteers: benefits and challenges
• Integrating personnel resources into an overall management plan
• Researching: aligning expectations of the researcher and the institution
Coordinated responses to questionnaires will be addressed post presentations (time permitting)
including topics such as:
• Creatively overcoming budgetary constraints and collection backlogs
• Addressing your biggest challenges
• Record-keeping, digitization, and photography
• Disaster Preparedness: “Acts of God” and “Acts of Terrorism”
• Help from peers and colleagues in other institutions or companies
• Is it time for a Costume and Textile Consortium on collection management?
• Available resources and handout sheet of information
• Summary of different approaches to collection management
Louise Coffey-Webb: Author, Managing Costume Collections: An Essential Primer, CSA Series, Texas Tech
University Press, 2016. Consultant to The James G. Galanos Foundation, former Curator, Collection Manager and
Consultant to many institutions including LACMA, FIDM Museum, Audrey Hepburn Foundation Collection, Sony
Pictures Entertainment Archives, Warner Bros. Museum, Zandra Rhodes Enterprises.
Bobi Garland, Costume Consultant to Walt Disney Animation Studios, UCLA Oral History Department,
specializing in oral histories of film costumers and artisans, and Electronic Arts Games; former Director of
Western Costume Research Library and Costume Archive, including advising and sponsoring over 200 interns
and fieldwork students.
Susan Neill, Formerly Costume Consultant to Western Reserve Historical Society, Textiles Reviewer for National
Museum of African American History and Culture, Curator of Textiles and Social History at Atlanta History
Center, Hope B. McCormick Costume Fellow at Chicago Historical Society.
21
SATURDAY, MAY 28
10:45-12:30 – Allen
Identifying and Re-Creating Civilian Fashions in the American Civil War
Julie Burnsides Diaz, Independent Researcher
Cost (if not signed up for symposium): $25
Limit: 50
This session is geared toward re-enactors, costumers, first-person interpreters,
and supervisors at small historic sites, but all are welcome.
companies like Simplicity to smaller
ones such as Period Impressions, as
well as discuss the use and re-creation
of original patterns from sources such
as Godey's Ladies’ Book and
Peterson's Magazine. We will analyze
the accuracy and ease of use of the
displayed patterns, and compare the
finished garments made from them to
extant 19th century garments to
identify differences and discuss the
reasoning and necessity of
“modernizing” patterns and identify
opportunities for improvement.
Although re-enactors and interpreters
who focus on military impressions
often have a wealth of reliable
information available to them in order
to create an accurate American Civil
War impression, those portraying or
dressing civilians face a far more
nebulous undertaking. Misinformation
abounds, and can be very difficult to
separate from good, scholarly
research. The popularity of the time
period in film and television can
further compound the issue, leading to
docents dressed as Scarlett O’Hara at a
historic site and calling the credibility
of the entire interpretation program
into question.
We will also provide an overview of all
pieces necessary for a single
individual's wardrobe, both male and
female, with discussion of the context
of wear. A handout will be provided
containing many resources for
required items to complete accurate
reproductions, and fabric and fiber
choices will be addressed.
This session will examine the wealth
of information available regarding
American civilian clothing 1861-1865.
It will discuss existing primary source
material and how to access it,
including using museum and library
research appointments to their fullest,
and where to look for sources.
Because individuals and small sites
often don’t have the budget to
comparison shop, we will present a
side-by-side comparison of garments
made from several popular
commercial patterns, from larger
22
If you have pieces in your wardrobe or
your site’s that you would like to
compare to the original pieces or
receive advice on, please bring the
garments or photographs of them and
we will discuss them as a group, time
permitting.
SATURDAY, MAY 28
1:30-3:00pm – Stillman
Using Historic Costume in the Classroom: Three Examples from the Field




Sherri Saines, Reference Librarian, Human and Consumer Sciences, Ohio
University [Moderator]
Trina Gannon, Instructor in Retail and Fashion Product Development, and Assistant
Curator, Doxsee Collection of Historic Textiles, Ohio University
Dr. Constance Korosec, Professor, Chair Fashion Design and Merchandising, Curator,
Ursuline College
Marlise Schoeny, Assistant Curator, Historic Costume and Textiles Collection, Ohio State
University
“Modernizing History: Using Historic Costume Collections and Library Resources in Retail
Merchandising” Trina Gannon and Sherri Saines, Ohio University, Athens, Ohio
The Mary C. Doxsee Collection (MCD) at Ohio University houses over 3,000 items. It is used in
the Color Theory for Visual Merchandising class by integrating items from the collection into a final
project involving CAD (Computer Aided Design). Students design a retail space inspired by an artifact
from the collection that they have chosen and researched with help from our subject librarian--what
was happening socially and economically in that particular era, and then design a space using color
theories and retail principles to create a store centered on those concepts.
One of the main goals of using the MCD collection is to inform students about historic dress as
the department no longer has a course to teach that particular topic anymore. Another goal is to get
the collection into the classroom so students can feel like they are helping to improve the knowledge
base of the collection to better inform future students. Yet another goal is familiarizing students with
library resources in costume history. Students have expressed their enthusiasm in learning about the
collection and this has helped in a myriad of ways including with internships.
“How to Create and Use a Historical Study Collection: To Enhance the History of Costume for
your Students” Dr. Connie Korosec, Ursuline College, Pepper Pike, OH


Presenting on mannequins examples of early garage sale gifts which evolved into acquiring
designer pieces for a ‘historical study collection’
Discussing how to use such a collection, via assessment and outcomes in the classroom with
actual student research projects.
“Creating an Interactive Database to Incorporate a Costume Collection in K-12 Classrooms”
Marlise Schoeny, The Ohio State University
One of the main goals when we originally began creating our online database, Fashion2Fiber,
was to digitize those artifacts frequently used in the classroom whose condition was becoming too
fragile for continued use. By creating a comprehensive digital record, these primary sources can
continue to be of use to our undergraduate students in the history of fashion course. As the database
developed, however, we saw an opportunity to expand the use of these artifacts beyond the traditional
fashion courses. This led us to apply for an Institute of Museum and Library Services grant to engage
teachers in grades K-12 in the use of historic costume in their lesson plans. The goal of the resulting
week-long program was to work with these teachers to create lesson plans that utilized historic
garments as a way to teach students specific information to meet the Common Core Standards. It was
very successful with teachers in the subject areas of history, language arts and others, creating useful
lesson plans for the ensuing school year.
23
SUNDAY, MAY 29
9am-12noon Roxy
Photography of Historic Collections
Dr. Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta
Charity Calvin, Iowa State University
Cost: $15
Limit: 10
Lastly, we will address how to
isolate a subject and edit backdrops
if there is time or if some
participants are more advanced than
others.
This workshop is for individuals
working with clothing and textile
artifacts in institutions where there
is limited or no access to
professional photographers on staff.
It will cover the basics of
photography so that participants
may create publishable quality
visuals for print articles and Internet
use. The session will cover lighting,
composition, how to use a DSLR
camera (basic settings & file
formats), the use of light meters (the
one integrated in the camera and an
external one) and the use of the
tripod.
Editing and color corrections of the
visuals taken will also be covered
briefly. To discuss image
manipulation, we will address a few
features of Adobe Photoshop® that
are essential to obtain publishable
visuals. These include image
adjustments such as size, resolution
and rotation. Image adjustments
such as color balance, brightness
and contrast will also be explained.
White cotton muslin dress with silver foil decoration,
1808-1812. Artifact from the University of Alberta School
of Household Economics (1974.9.4) adopted by Peggy
Isley, March 2013. Worn with: square silk and
wool turnover shawl with red field and multicolored
decorative borders, Europe, 1810-1830. Artifact
donated by Janice Hanson (1997.4.1) adopted by Peggy
Isley, March 2013; black silk satin slipper shoes,
Canada, 1820-1830s. Artifact donated by Jim Whittome
(2001.6.8ab).
Clothing and Textiles Collection, Department of Human
Ecology, University of Alberta.
Photograph by Anne Bissonnette ©
The goal of this three hour session is to teach learners how to take good pictures under
budgetary constraints and what types of equipment are ideal if you have some funds to invest.
It is recommended that participants bring their cameras and laptops with a copy of Photoshop
installed, if possible. Participants may also use the teachers’ equipment but may have to wait
their turn if they choose to do so.
24
SYMPOSIUM HIGHLIGHTS
FULL CLEVELAND RECEPTION and
JOAN SEVERA “DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER” FUNDRAISER
Following the Keynote address on Wednesday evening, the
Midwestern Region invites everyone to a “Full Cleveland”
Reception, which will include a Joan Severa “Dressed for the
Photographer” Fundraiser. You may come in your “Full
Cleveland” best (white shoes and matching white belt on leisure
suit if you can manage that) or we can certainly provide you with
an opportunity for a selfie with a Full Cleveland-attired gent.
Joan Severa, long-standing member of the Midwestern Region,
passed away in March 2015. Author of Dressed for the
Photographer and My Likeness Taken, the region and symposium
planners would like to honor her and her commitment to CSA
with a fund-raiser to benefit the organization and Midwestern
Region’s Otto Thieme student internship. Come “dressed for the
photographer” in your best attire, period garb, or full Cleveland
gear. A photo booth will be available to document the historic
occasion, for a donation of course!
CLEVELAND MUSEUM OF ART
The Cleveland Museum of Art is
renowned for the quality and breadth of
its collection, which includes almost
45,000 objects and spans 6,000 years of
achievement in the arts. Having recently
completed an ambitious, multi-phase
renovation and expansion project across
its campus, the museum is a significant
international forum for exhibitions,
scholarship, performing arts and art
education. One of the top comprehensive
art museums in the nation and free of
charge to all, the Cleveland Museum of Art
is located in the dynamic University Circle
neighborhood. The museum is especially
strong in the field of Asian art, possessing
one of the best collections in the U.S.
25
WESTERN RESERVE HISTORICAL SOCIETY
The Cleveland History Center houses exhibits that tell the story of Northeast Ohio through
items, documents and artifacts from a variety of collections. Western Reserve Historical
Society was founded in 1867 to preserve and present the history of all of the people of
Northeast Ohio. Today, WRHS is one of the largest regional historical societies in the nation
with a mission to inspire people to discover the American experience by exploring the
tangible history of Northeast Ohio. Our collections are made accessible to the public through
our two primary venues: the History Center in Cleveland’s University Circle and Hale Farm &
Village in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park near Bath, Ohio.
SCHOLARS’ ROUND TABLE
Saturday May 28
10:45am-12:15pm
Everyone Their Own Curator: Professionalism and Authority in the Digital Age
Carl Becker, in his 1931 address to the American Historical Association, transformed the study
of history by comparing the mundane tasks of remembering and recording used by “Mr.
Everyman” and the work of professional historians. The difference, Becker insisted, was that
Mr. Everyman was being his own historian, but professionals were charged with writing
“everyone’s history” and held to a higher standard of authority.
The 2016 Scholar’s Roundtable will consider the role of the dress scholar in an age when
technology and culture have enabled everyone to be their own curator. Once an arcane term
familiar mainly to museum professionals, “curation” has become the new buzzword for
gathering, organizing and presenting everything from online content to one’s seasonal
wardrobe. This emergence of ubiquitous curation has resulted in the phenomenon of
museums mounting exhibits curated by non-museum professionals. At the Design Exchange
in Toronto, the exhibition, Politics of Fashion/Fashion of Politics was curated by
“international fashion icon,” journalist Jeanne Beker. Another variation is the self-curated
fashion designer, such as the Jean-Pierre Gauthier exhibition.
What does curation mean when everyone is a potential curator? Is “good curating” or “bad
curating” a matter of academic credentials or professional titles or lack of them? Is "curating"
information in the form of a book or website or "curating" an archive the same as curating a
collection or exhibition of objects? Where does publication fit in, especially in a digital
environment which makes everyone their own publisher?
26
Amethyst Royalty
Amorphous Rift
California
Chute
Collective Reflection
Frayed Elegance
Juried Design Exhibition Selections
Julie Burnsides Diaz, Independent Researcher
Kim Hahn, Kent State University
Nancy Martin, San Francisco University
Theresa Winge, Michigan State University
Kendra Lapolla, Kent State University
Lynn Boorady, Buffalo State
Hidden Memories: Forgotten Prayers 1
Hidden Words: Down the Rabbit Hole
In the Spirit Otsuzure
Kelpies and Spiraled Connections
Lady Bracknell
Natural Flow
Now and Forever
Parhelion Dawn
Russia
Michael Mamp, Central Michigan University
Michael Mamp, Central Michigan University
M. Jo Kallal, University of Delware
April Elisha Stanley, Iowa State University
Angela Bacarisse, Stephen F. Austin University
Chanjuan Chen, Kent State University
Ja Young Hwang, Kent State and Shan Gao, University of Arkansas
Kim Hahn, Kent State University
Sara Jablon, Iowa State University
The Secret Garden Dreamer Man
The Secret Garden Lily
The Starry Night
Transparent Pannier
Transmorphic Spiral
Underwater Coral
Vitreous Fractures
You’ve Come a Long Way Baby
Leon Wieber, Loyola Marymount University
Leon Wieber, Loyola Marymount University
Gypsy Ames, The Colorado College
Colleen Mortez,
Helen Koo and Mai Vang, University of California Davis
Jennise Thurston, Central Michigan University
Kim Hahn, Kent State University
Susan Avila, University of California Davis
27
Juried Poster Presentations
From Trash to Fashion: The Ash Can Hats of the 1930s – 1950s
Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti, Iowa State University
African Fables as Inspiration for Exhibition Design: Singed—How the Zebra Got its Stripes
Tameka N. Ellington, Kent State University
Plain Sewing Samplers and Sewing Instruction in the Nineteenth/Early Twentieth Century
Sally Helvenston Gray, Michigan State University
Globalization of Western and Middle Eastern Cultures through Fashion
Rebekah Silver Jackson, affiliation
From ‘Mannish’ to ‘Gamine’: Androgyny’s Shifting Lexicon in the Late 20th Century
Dr. Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University
Costume Core: A Detailed System for Digital Catalogs of Historic Clothing
Arden Kirkland, Vassar College Costume Collection
Changing Gender Views on Individual Height of Korean Young Professionals
Kyung Eun Lee, Iowa State University
Humans of Uniqlo: Identity, Aesthetics and Glamour Labor in Brand Growth
Myles Ethan Lascity, Drexel University
Modern Mayan Fashion
Angelina Martin, Fashion Designer
Hickson Inc.: Branding, Trademarks and the Selling of Design
Jean Parsons, University of Missouri
Sara Marcketti, Iowa state University
The Unofficial Preppy Uniform: Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow
Cody Risinger and Catherine Amoroso Leslie, Kent State University
Piecing Together the Details: Eighteenth-century Women’s Cap Construction
Sherri B. Saines, Alden Library, Ohio University
Searching for Answers: the Discovery of an Unidentified Coat in the University of Rhode Island
Costume Collection
Pam Sebor-Cable, Framingham State University
Hair and Hairdressing as Cultural Science in the Second Half of the Eighteenth Century
Brenna Buchanan, Iowa State University
28
Room ˅
Roxy
Hanna
Allen
Thursday/Friday Evening Special Group Meetings
Day/Time >
State (t)
Stillman (Friday only)
Palace West (t)
(t) = laptop hookup equipped
Thursday 530-730 or later
530-630 All About Dress and
CSA eNews Q&A session
630-730 Publications
Committee Meeting
530 Guatemala/Honduras
Study Tour 2017 Interest
Group
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Friday 600-730 or later
Symposium Advisory Board
Guatemala and Honduras Study Tour 2017
Plans are underway for a Costume Society of America Study Tour to Guatemala
and Honduras in May 2017. If you are interested in this adventure, please
gather with colleagues to enjoy a brief power point, share show-and-tell
treasures from Guatemala, and join the anticipation of exploring Guatemalan
traje. Contact Vicki Berger with questions v.berger@cox.net
All About Dress and CSA eNews
Are you thinking of writing up and submitting your research to Dress, CSA's
peer-reviewed journal? Want to know more about the journal and the editorial
process? Join Dress editor Tina Bates and members of the editorial board for an
informal Q&A. We welcome all questions, from proposal to submission to
publication.
Want to know more about submitting events, exhibitions, books, and current
topics of interest to CSA eNews? Join eNews editor Jennifer Mower to learn more
about topics of particular interest for CSA eNews.
29
COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA 2016 SYMPOSIUM THE FULL CLEVELAND
MAY 25-28, 2016 CLEVELAND, OHIO
REGISTRATION FORM/INFORMATION
!!REGISTER ONLINE!!
http://costumesocietyamerica.com/national-symposia/proceedings/
Costume Society of America
P.O. Box 852
Columbus, GA 31902-0852
1-800-CSA-9447 or 706-615-2851
national.office@costumesocietyamerica.com
or use form below and mail to:
Questions? Call or email:
I am a Member
I am a Non-Member
______________________________________________________________________________
Name
___________________________________________________________________
Mailing Address
___________________________________________________________________
City/State/Zip/Country
___________________________________________________________________
Phone number
___________________________________________________________________
Email address
___________________________________________________________________
Emergency Contact: Name/Phone
___________________________________________________________________
Name/Affiliation (as you would like them to appear on your nametag)
Check boxes or fill in blanks that apply
� I am a new CSA member
� This is my first symposium
� I would like a mentor
� I would like to share a hotel room
� I volunteer to be a mentor
� I have a disability requiring special accommodations (National Office will contact you)
I have dietary needs: � Vegetarian � Other________________________________________
Select your choice for Friday's box lunch
Each lunch contains: whole fruit, bagged chips or pretzels, cookie, bottled water, choice of pre-made wrap:
�Sliced Roast Beef, Cheddar Cheese, Caramelized Onions, Served with a Mild Horseradish Sauce in a Wheat
Tortilla
�Turkey Breast, Bacon, Lettuce & Tomato, Served with a Dijon Mayonnaise in a Spinach Tortilla
�Grilled Vegetables, Goat Cheese & Lettuce, Served with an Herbed Mayonnaise in a Tomato Tortilla
30
THIS YEAR’S SYMPOSIUM IS SPONSORED IN PART BY
WOULD YOU LIKE to help with the symposium this year by becoming a sponsor? Add a small
donation to your registration to help out at the following levels. We will add your name to the
symposium sponsor list in the printed proceedings!
Levels:
QUARTER CLEVELAND
HALF CLEVELAND
FULL CLEVELAND
WHOLE CANNOLI
$10
$25
$50
$100
Fees received by
April 9, 2016 Apr 10-May 1, 2016
Early
Regular
FULL SYMPOSIUM: MAY 25 – 28, 2016
Wednesday evening-Saturday: Includes keynote address and reception, 3 continental breakfasts, 3
lunches, Thursday museum visits, Design exhibit, plus printed symposium proceedings
Member, Full conference
Student Member, Full conference
Non-member, Full conference
$365
$295
$450
$465
$395
$550
TWO DAY REGISTRATION (THURS/FRI OR FRI/SAT)
Thurs/Fri: Includes 2 continental breakfasts and 2 lunches and museum visits
Fri/Sat: Includes 2 continental breakfasts and 2 lunches
Member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat)
Student Member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat)
Non-member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat)
$245 / $255
$195 / $205
$300 / $310
$295 / $305
$245 / $255
$350 / $360
ONE DAY REGISTRATION (THURS/FRI/SAT)
Thursday: Includes continental breakfast, lunch and museum visits
Friday: Includes continental breakfast and lunch
Saturday: Includes continental breakfast and lunch
Member
Student Member
Non-member
$165
$115
$200
31
$190
$140
$225
Fees received by
SPECIAL FUNCTION GUEST PASS
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
Keynote address
Member or Non-Member
Keynote reception
Member or Non-Member
April 9, 2016 Apr 10-May 1, 2016
Early
Regular
$30
$35
$35
$40
PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP SESSIONS
(Registration for workshops is on a first-come, first-served basis)
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
9am-noon
Care and Handling of Costumes
Limit 20
Member or Guest
$15
$15
$35
$35
$25
$25
$10
$10
1pm-4pm
Learning to Fosshape
Limit 15
Member or Guest
1pm-4pm
Kleibacker Techniques
Limit 12
Member or Guest
2:30pm-4pm
Help (Maybe?) Wanted
Limit 40
Member or Guest
SATURDAY, MAY 28
10:45am-12:30
Identifying Civil War Fashions
a la carte (if not registered for symposium)
Limit 50
Member or Guest
$25
$25
SUNDAY, MAY 29
9am-noon
Photography of Historic Collections
Limit 10
Member or Guest
$15
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$15
PRE/POST SYMPOSIUM TOUR SESSIONS
(Registration for tours is on a first-come, first-served basis)
WEDNESDAY, MAY 25
All Day Kent State University Tour (bus, museum admission, coffee and lunch included)
Limit 29
Member or Guest
$45
Optional Tech/Style Lab workshop
Member of Guest
Limit 29
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum
Member / Non-Member
Limit 30
$30
$20 / $35
SUNDAY, MAY 29
Kent State University Tour (bus, museum admission and snack included)
Limit 29
Member or Guest
$35
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum Limit 30
Member / Non-Member
$20 / $35
Total Fees:
Workshops
Pre-Symposium Tours
Symposium Registration
Special Function Guest Pass
Post Symposium Tour
Sponsorship
__________________
__________________
__________________
__________________
__________________
__________________
Total Payment
__________________
� check enclosed � charge to credit card
� MasterCard � Visa � America Express � Discover
Expiration____/____/____
Account #_____________________________
Cardholder's Name__________________________
Cardholder's Signature_________________________________________
Cancellation Policy: Registration fee refunded minus $50 administrative fee if cancelled by May 16, 2016.
No refund after May 16, 2016.
Costume Society of America
P.O. Box 852
Columbus, GA 31902-0852
All times, speakers and sessions are tentative and subject to change
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WYNDHAM CLEVELAND AT PLAYHOUSE SQUARE
1260 Euclid Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44115 US
1-216-615-7500
1-877-999-3223 (reservations)
In the Theater District, one mile
from the Rock and Roll Hall of
Fame and four miles from the
museums at University Circle.
We have negotiated a group rate of $139/night for run of house and king rooms. This rate is available
2 days prior and 2 days after the meeting dates of May 24-29, 2016 for those of you who would like to
extend your stay. Call the hotel directly or Wyndham’s toll free reservations number provided above
and tell them you are with Costume Society of America. If registering online, the group code is
0524142CO
For budgeting purposes, rooms are subject to state/local taxes of 16.5% [State 8%, lodging 5.5%, city
3%]
Reservations must be received by April 27, 2016
Parking is available $10 daily, $20 overnight
Check in 3pm, check out 12pm
Lobby
Double Room
Blue Bar
Encore Restaurant
Outdoor Terrace
Pool and Fitness Center
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CLEVELAND HIGHLIGHTS, LOCALLY RECOMMENDED
Cleveland is FULL of many things to do on your own. Here is just a sampling of sites in addition to
those we will be visiting during the conference, recommended by CSA locals
LAKEVIEW CEMETERY
As a tourist destination, The Lake View Cemetery offers a variety of walking, bus, and self-guided
tours. Among the tour topics are geology, architecture, horticulture, nature, animals, and history.
Some well-known attractions include the Garfield Monument, Wade Chapel, the Rockefeller
Monument, Community Mausoleum and the Lake View Cemetery Dam. Open April 1 - November 19,
seven days a week, 9:00 am - 4:00 pm. Both buildings are staffed with interpretive guides during
open hours. The Wade Chapel features a window by Louis Comfort Tiffany Studios.
OHIO CITY AND WESTSIDE MARKET
Ohio City, located just west of Downtown Cleveland and the Cuyahoga River, sits at the center of the
City's Near West Side. Constructed in 1912, the West Side Market in particular became a
neighborhood focal point and source of community interaction. Josiah Barber, the first mayor of
Ohio City, together with pioneer Richard Lord, deeded the site to Cleveland on the condition that it
remain a marketplace. Recent rehabilitation projects have focused on commercial development,
including expanded storefront renovation, multi-million-dollar renovation of the West Side Market,
and an RTA station built in 1992. New vitality and neighborhood interest have taken the shape of
newly constructed condominiums and townhouses throughout the neighborhood, as well as a
thriving retail and restaurant scene.
LITTLE ITALY
In the mid-1800s an Italian sculptor Joseph Carrabelli began his famous granite and marble works
at the top of the ‘hill’ on Mayfield Rd. The area between the railroad and the top of the ‘hill’ became
home to Carrabelli and the many Italian families that came to Cleveland to work, and Little Italy was
born. Today the traditions hold strong with the rich cultural heritage and the spirit of artistry that
Carabelli began over 130 years ago. Over 20 galleries, 15 restaurants, many professional-service
businesses, two schools and Holy Rosary Church thrive in this village. Historic Little Italy in
Cleveland, Ohio is located adjacent to the city’s cultural district, University Circle. Case Western
Reserve University, several museums, the world-famous symphony, and botanical garden are
within walking distance of Little Italy.
GREAT LAKES BREWERY
Great Lakes Brewing Company is a brewery and brewpub in Cleveland, Ohio. It is the first brewpub
and microbrewery in Ohio. The company was established in 1988 by brothers Patrick and Daniel
Conway in Cleveland's Ohio City neighborhood. Tours are offered of the brewery or visitors can order
a pint at the taproom's beautiful Tiger Mahogany bar, where the "untouchable" Eliot Ness once sat.
5TH STREET ARCADES
The 5th Street Arcades are situated in the heart of downtown Cleveland, running parallel between
East 4th and East 6th Streets, bound by Euclid and Prospect Avenues at each end. These century-old
shopping arcades are unique architectural landmarks. The Colonial Arcade, built in 1898, and the
Euclid Arcade, constructed in 1911, were connected in 2000. In 2012, Cumberland Development
assumed management of these beautiful arcades, and worked diligently to revitalize the spaces,
taking the property from half empty to nearly full occupancy in just nine months, filling all vacant
spaces with unique, local retail.
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SILENT AUCTION
Help us raise funds to support projects and services that benefit CSA members — and weed out your bookshelves
and closets at the same time! Please donate costume related books and magazines, wearable art, vintage treasures,
lace, trims, jewelry, buttons, scarves and accessories (we are not doing a shoe or scarf exchange this year so bring
them to the silent auction!), and other items of interest to CSA members. (In general, these should fit into the
winning bidder’s suitcase.) Donations of professional services are also welcome. Donations are tax deductible.
Please mail your donation(s) ahead of time if possible. (Just stuff as much as possible into a flat-rate box.)
If bringing to Symposium, please indicate on form.
Name_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Address______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
City_____________________________________________________________ State _____________Zip Code________________________________
Phone _____________________________________________Email____________________________________________________________________
Business, institution or individual to be listed in credits and acknowledgments:
________________________________________________________________________________________
Item Description
Value
Mail form and donation postmarked by May 15, 2016 to:
Check if
mailing item
in advance
Catherine Amoroso Leslie
332 Afton Avenue
Akron, OH 44313
Questions? Contact: Catherine at 330-389-3534 or cleslie1@kent.edu
Note:
Reserve
Check if
Price
bringing to
(optional) symposium
In exceptional cases, an unsold item may be returned if the donor specifies beforehand and picks it up or pays
postage.
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