THE COSMETIC SUMMIT Newsletter - Intermountain West Society
Transcription
THE COSMETIC SUMMIT Newsletter - Intermountain West Society
Third Quarter 2015 Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists THE COSMETIC SUMMIT Newsletter Industry Insider IMWSCC Board Chair Eric Scarborough ericgscarborough@yahoo.com Chair Elect Rick Bruen rick@bpilabs.com Secretary Rachel Sabin rac.sabin@gmail.com Treasurer Kelsey Larsen kelseyl@nuskin.com Newsletter Editor Rachel Sabin rac.sabin@gmail.com Assistant Editor Position Available Newsletter Publisher Brianna Purinton bri.purinton@gmail.com Third Quarter Sponsors: AAK LIPSCOMB 1 2 3 4 5 6 Neways’ Top Ten Favorite Restaurants P.F. Changs! My favorite dish is their lettuce wraps with beef and broccoli. – Randall BLTA Croissant at Red Robin. – Tiffany Happy Sumo in the Riverwoods. My favorite dish there is the Baja Roll— spicy!!! – JoDee I am pretty simple. I like the Tour of Italy at Olive Garden. – Heidi I like the BBQ chicken and pork grilled with a ton of garlic and chili sauce at the Mongolian Grill in Springville. – Keith I’m happy just grabbing a steak at Sizzler. – Richard 7 8 9 Magleby’s in Springville is my favorite and my preferred dish there is Wonderful Halibut with vegetables. – Jane Café Rio and my favorite dish is the shredded beef salad. – Kristen When I have a break or cheat day from my diet, Two Jacks Pizza in Spanish Fork or Springville is where I go. Choice of pizza is Canadian bacon and mushrooms. However, their other pizzas are quite delicious too. – James 10 I love a good burger. Cubby’s Dragon Slayer cooked through, not well done. – Brad Table of Contents 2015 Sunscreen Symposium SCC Florida Chapter September 16-19 Orlando, Florida Industry Insider p.1 Chemists Corner p. 3-4 Visit http://imwscc.org/currentevents.html for more details Supplier Spotlight p. 5 IMWSCC Spotlight p. 7 Regulatory Department p. 8 Morninga Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern Form p. 10-14 Company Spotlight p. 15 TnT Meeting Agenda p. 16-17 IOU Meeting Synopsis p. 19 The Soul & Science of Beauty. Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany PHONE +49 201 173-2854 Evonik Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA PHONE +1 804 541-8658 personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care 2 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 EVGPC-3186 S&SofB Ad 4x4.indd 1 12/3/13 1:17 PM Read to Win! Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this . Spot it and email Eric (intermountainwscc@gmail.com) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a gift card at the next meeting. Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com Why the EWG Skin Deep Database is Still a Dubious Source By: Perry Romanowski The EWG gets a lot of criticism for flaws in their database, but I have to give them credit where credit is due. They have fixed at least one flaw that I pointed out in a previous post. They used to have a listing for a fictional compound, POLYPARABEN, and they have since removed it. They still list Polyparaben as a synonym for Propylparaben but that is a minor mistake. I find it encouraging that they have fixed anything. Profit over Safety I also criticized them for profiting off of what they consider “dangerous” products. And they still do that. One of the ways the EWG makes money is by participating in affiliate programs, specifically the Amazon Associates program. This is a good deal for websites because if a consumer goes to Amazon and makes a purchase the website owner gets a small % of the sale (somewhere between 2 and 4%). Unfortunately, the EWG seems more concerned about their Amazon Associates sales than they do about consumer safety. After all, why would they put an affiliate link to a product they rate as the worst of the worst? Aveeno Active Naturals Radiant Tinted Moisturizer has a rating of 10. A 10 rating is the most dangerous product that can be found in the Skin Deep Database (according to them). But if you click on the picture they’ll be happy to have you buy the product through their affiliate program. If a product was this dangerous how could the EWG possibly encourage people to buy it? Ratings Based on Nothing One of the “improvements” recently added to the Skin Deep Database was an additional rating of the quality of data supporting the safety rating. This is understandable since ratings based on single studies are much weaker than ratings based on lots of studies. However, this does not seem to affect the way they rate ingredients. For example, how can an ingredient like HYDROGENATED PALM GLYCERIDES get a zero rating? A zero rating is the most safe you can score. They admit that this rating is based on no data. What is it based on? I have no idea. Maybe they think Palm Glycerides sounds natural so it gets a zero rating with no data but then how would you explain the zero rating based on no data for HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/ SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER? There is certainly nothing natural about an acrylic polymer. You could say that zero is the starting point so any ingredient that has zero data will get a zero rating. This seems rather silly but it would be logical. Of course, this is not the case. Consider these examples… 1. PEG-150 DISTEARATE – Rating 3, no data 2. TEA COCOYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN – Rating 4, no data 3. PEG-2 SOYAMINE – Rating 5, no data 4. SODIUM OCTOXYNOL-2 ETHANE SULFONATE – Rating 6, no data Without any data, how did these ingredients get a rating? Naive Ratings Another criticism of the EWG database is that the ratings demonstrate a lack of understanding of the raw materials they are rating. For example, they list SODIUM COCOYL SULFATE and give it a zero rating with zero data. They also have a listing for SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE and give it a 1-2 rating with a “fair” amount of data. This makes no sense. Anyone who knows chemistry knows that Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate is essentially the same thing as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. So how is it that two chemicals which are essentially identical have different ratings? All the fair amount of data that is available for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is equally applicable to Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate! If any knowledgeable chemist was involved in making the database, this problem of naivety could be avoided. 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 3 Chemist Corner Continued: LIPSCOMB Is there anything else? CHEMICAL COMPANY There are some good things about the EWG Skin Deep Database. I do like that you can look up ingredients and compare them to different products on the market. This is quite handy for a formulator. And if a person is allergic to any specific ingredient, it’s especially helpful to know what you can avoid. A member of the Omya group Providing Specialty Ingredients to the Personal Care Industry However, the hazard ratings and collected science are mostly rubbish and not worth paying attention to. If you want a more reliable database, consider looking at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. This one is actually collated by toxicologists and other people with science backgrounds. And if you want one produced by the EU, the European Commission website will be more helpful. A LEADING SUPPLIER OF UNIQUE SPECIALTY CHEMICAL INGREDIENTS TO THE COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY WHERE SCIENCE MEETS FASHION Over 100 in vivo tested actives • Prompt regulatory support Formulation assistance and prototypes • New system formers from Japan We invite you to contact our Western Region Sales team Michelle Carrillo 818-324-4773 mcarrillo@barnetproducts.com Karen Chun 714-325-3109 kchun@barnetproducts.com Guy Langer (Qumulus Group) guylanger@aol.com 818-606-7060 WWW.BARNETPRODUCTS.COM BARNET PRODUCTS CORPORATION 201.346.4620 140 SYLVAN AVE. ENGLEWOOD CLIFFS NJ 07630 4 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 5 x 7 no bleed girl-chem optimafont.indd 1 2/21/2014 10:26:16 AM Sales Representative - Gary Peaslee - 972-437-2414 Lipscomb Customer Service - 562-961-3333 www.covalence.com Supplier Spotlight: CoValence® Laboratories Key Personnel • Pete Vlcek, CEO • John Wochner, CSO • Melinda Wochner, CMO • James McCoy, CFO • John Stanek, Director of Research and Development Technologies, Patents, New Products Company Description CoValence® is an FDA registered and ISO 22716 certified skin care / personal care contract and private label manufacturer. Since 1989, our advanced skin care concepts and formulas have been in the forefront of skin care innovation…You may not have heard of us, but you have heard of our clients, products and technologies in the national and international personal care industry. Customer Service, International Regulations, R&D, Cosmeceutical and OTC Manufacturing, Quality Control, Filling and Shipping are all under one roof which makes communication with our clients leaving more time for Pub-RevendeurUS-4x4-5-HD.pdf 1 20.10.14efficient, 17:50:14 our clients to do what they do best…growing their businesses. CoValence® has been manufacturing unique ingredient concept products from day one. We introduced chirality to skin care manufacturing during the mid-90s when it had been primarily recognized in pharmaceutical development. We continue to research sophisticated “mechanism of action” ingredients including the first stable Retinaldehyde, IconicA®, successfully utilized in skin care. Major Markets • National and International • Professional and Retail Cosmeceutical • Professional and Retail OTC Specialized Services • Private Label and Custom Development (low min) • Proprietary and Industry Trend Ingredients Between Nature & Technology BIOTECHNOLOGY FINE CHEMISTRY By Solabia VEGETAL EXTRACTION PCA SCIENCE PCA science GLYCO-COSMETOLOGY GLGlyco-cosmetology Ω CERAMIDE ETHNOBOTANY TECHNOLOGY W Ceramide technology Michael Conti General Manager • International Regulatory Department • Celsis Rapid Detection System: reduces production timelines by up to 7 days • Marketing Department keeps clients well informed with CoValence® and Industry trends Ethnobotany International Services • EU, Canadian and ASEAN dossier assistance • Country Specific R&D Solabia USA 28 West 44th Street - Suite 910 - New York, NY10036 Tel: 212-847-2386 E-mail: mike.conti@solabia.com 460 South Benson Lane Chandler AZ 85224 USA Customerservice@covalence.com www.covalence.com 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 5 Beauty knows no boundaries Silicone specialties for personal care. Across continents…around the world…we’re a leader in innovative, high performance, and environmentally responsible technologies for personal care. We translate our ingredient expertise into tailored solutions specific to region and culture. AkzoNobel Personal Care…where science is a thing of beauty™. Proudly represented by Learn more at akzonobel.com/personalcare Tel: +1 888-331-6212 800.442.4676 • www.ethorn.com • careelements@ethorn.com Care Elements Momentive Ad 4x2.indd 1 6 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 1/10/14 3:43 PM Spotlight: Keith Murphy Where were you born? Great Falls, Montana aka Big Sky Country. As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up? I wanted to be a pilot in the air force. Since I haven’t yet grown up, there is still a chance! Favorite Hobbies? I enjoy almost everything outdoors, especially hiking, fishing, and camping. Favorite TV Show? Since I do not watch much TV, the one that comes to mind is Bob Ross doing his paintings. The way he described his art was intriguing along with the way it all came together in an effortless manner. Favorite Movie? Top Gun- this movie made me want to be a pilot. Another favorite is Sleepless in Seattle because of how sweet Meg Ryan is in that film. I really have not watched many movies because I prefer to be outside. On the weekend, you will most likely be found… I would be hard to track down in the mountains because I would probably be exploring the back country. If I were in an accessible location, it would likely be at a golf course, favorite fishing spot, or on a snowboard. Any nicknames we should know about? Murph, Smurphy, Slim, and a few that I won’t mention. :) What is the most adventurous thing you’ve ever done? I went on a five day backpacking trip in the desert. I survived but I was much thinner at the end. During the hike I jumped off a couple high cliffs into cold refreshing water. What was your last vacation? Lake Tahoe to go boating and exploring. If you could have a super-power what would it be? I would love to have the power to bring more peace into the world. What is your favorite quote? “Only when the last tree has died, the last river been poisoned, and the last fish been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.” Cree Indian Proverb 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 7 Scott@theregulatorydepartment.com Formulating Regulatory Friendly Products D. Scott Taylor “Some ingredients in this product can only be used in drugs, you’re going to have to switch preservatives, organic claims will only be valid in the United States, fragrance free will have to be changed and the names for the exclusive ingredients will have to receive INCI names from the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) before the ingredient panel can be added to the label. Or, you can sell it and hope you don’t get caught.” After my comments, I looked around the room at the disgruntled faces of the executives as Regulatory Affairs, a.k.a. “the department of sales prevention”, had once again lived up to its inglorious moniker. 1.Is this product going to be allowed in our international markets? The product development team was so excited to tell me that the formulation was ready, contract manufacturer was in place and the pilot batch would soon be complete. All they needed was to register the product in their current markets and compile the documentation. The testing had been carried out so that they could make specific claims on the products and additional testing for subsequent claims was also scheduled. 6. Are there any changes in the foreseeable future that will affect the acceptability of this product? The products were scheduled to be launched in the United States within the next six months and 15 additional countries were to be ready within the next 18 months. The problem wasn’t the timeline or the formula efficacy; the problem was the product didn’t meet the regulatory requirements for some of the international countries. Regulations are different from country to country and are especially diverse for preservatives, whitening agents, sunscreens, colorants, testing methods, classifications and claims. Prevention vs reaction - it is much easier and much more cost effective to apply sunscreen than get rid of melanoma. By coordinating formulation activities with regulatory research, you can optimize your chances of having a viable formula for the US and international markets. Not only will you save money, mitigate the risk of reformulation and save some hairs on your head, you will also be able to spend more time preparing for next year’s golf tournament. 2. What testing methods must be used for safety requirements abroad? 3. Will the introduction of certain ingredients change the classification of the product? 4. Which claims can be made and what are the substantiation/ testing requirements? 5. Do the manufacturers have the necessary documentation/ certifications for the registration processes? If these questions are answered, R&D will have the basis upon which to build their formulation. Ingredients can be selected from acceptable manufacturers and reformulation will only have to occur for organoleptic or technical reasons. Scott Taylor The Regulatory Department (801) 754-4443 scott@theregulatorydepartment.com After the meeting, I regretfully informed R&D that they should cancel the pilot (if possible), change the preservative system (as well as the total % of preservative to formula), apply for INCI names, cancel the new ingredient/finish product testing on animals and cancel the tests for The only fully operational fragrance laboratory and acne, anti-bacterial properties and rosacea/skin irritation manufacturer on the West Coast, creating aromas for reduction. Simply put, they had a product they couldn’t perfumes and colognes, household, personal care, export with claims they couldn’t make. This resulted in hair care and air care products. a very frustrated product development team. Even though this was a big hassle, a valuable lesson was learned and new SOPs reflected that gained knowledge. When a new product is coming out or a product needs to be reformulated, there are a number of questions that need to be answered before formulation occurs. 8 IMWSCC Contact us to learn more: 818.781.2584 • careelements@ethorn.com • fragrancewest.com 3rd Quarter 2015 Fragrance West 4x2 Ad.indd 1 1/10/14 4:48 PM ® www.floratech.com International Cosmetic & Food Regulatory Consultants We’ve got the whole world in our hands………. well 100 countries at least. International product notifications Label development/reviews Responsible party services Product Information Files (PIF) Ingredient/formula compliance reviews Claims development/review In-country regulatory maintenance Vendor documentation assessments www.theregulatorydepartment.com Scott Taylor (801) 754-4443 scott@theregulatorydepartment.com 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 9 es he n our s as 4 a ve s.4 wn s NATURALS Tiffany N. Oliphant – Floratech, Robert A. Harper PhD – Harper & Associates Tiffany Oliphant, Chad Dubbelde – Floratech, US enhances skin barrier recovery from& Associates, US Robert A Harper – Harper barrier damage as well as increases skin hydration. The increase in skin hydration was also correlated with consumer perception of skin moisture. Moringa butter: anc botanical in modern Moringa Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern Form By: Tiffany N. Oliphant and Robert A Harper, PhD Moringa butter is derived from the oil ofthe seeds of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to India. Moringa butter may infer certain skin benefits, when incorporated into hair and skin care products. Clinical data indicate that butter enhances skin recovery from barrier Themoringa use of moringa oil,barrier by ancient damage as well as increases skin hydration. The increase in skin hydration was also correlated with consumer perception of skin moisture. Egyptians has been recorded in On Earth hieroglyphs. Day 2008, as isskin-feel the annual In fact, non-greasy with Egyptologists have On Earth Day 2008, as is the annual tradition, the US tradition, the US National Institutes of low aodour and colour to applications and National Institutes of Health hosted a mystery plant contest. documented various Health hosted mystery plant contest. personal The clues for the mystery plant included: The cluescosmetic for the mysteryand plant included: formulas containing moringa oil for topical 4 ...[it] has medicinal careimportant formulations. properties but is not endangered. ...[it] has important medicinal properties but is not endangered. pastes and perfumes.6 Some of the In fact, perhaps like no other single In fact, perhaps like no other single species, this plant has thespecies, Ancient History this plant has the potential historical uses ofofthe moringa plant potential to help reverse multiple major environmental problemsto help reverse multiple major Moringa Seed Oil 1.2,7,8 environmental problems and are shown inprovide Table and provide for many unmet human needs.1 for many unmet human needs. Moringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a This tree profile accounts Figure oleifera (above) flowering nativeundoubtedly to the What was1: thisMoringa mystery plant with tree over 100 different names What was this mystery plant with over for the of therapeutic applications and the seeds below. foothills the Himalayas 100 different names inhistorical multiple languages in multiple languages around the world? Moringa oleifera around the world? Moringa oleifera – “the in northern India. It is – “the miracle tree” whose leaves alone contain seven times of the moringa plant. miracle tree” whose leaves alone contain cultivated in many parts the vitamin C of oranges, four times the vitamin A seven of times the vitamin C of oranges, four mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed to times theA ofworld including theof vitamin carrots, four times carrots, four times the calcium of milk, more iron than the calcium of milk,tropical more iron than children. In India, the moringa tree is called Composition and Africa, Americas, spinach, three times the potassium of bananas, and twice spinach, three times the potassium 2,3 Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and addition, this elongated vitamin-rich plant the of yogurt. theprotein drumstick treeIndue to the physiochemical properties of bananas, and twice the protein of 4 yogurt. In addition, this vitamin-rich Not the Philippines. contains a variety of amino acids, 2 as well as antioxidants and shape of its seed pods. The moringa treeplant contains of oil a moringa variety of amino acids, as surprisingly, the moringa trace elements.4 well as antioxidants and trace elements. Figure 1: Moringa oleifera tree (above) is also known by various other names Moringa seeds yield up to 40% oil by tree attributes is known many The positive of theby moringa and the seeds below. The positive attributes of the moringa tree do not end with tree do not end with its nutritional names.extraction. In Senegal it is resulting oil contains throughout Africa, Asia, South and cold The mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed to benefits. In fact, the seed oil from its nutritional benefits. In fact, the seed oil from5 Moringa known as nebeday (the tree that never dies) because it is able children. In India, the moringa tree is called Moringa oleifera has the highestoleic oxidative triglycerides, Central America, and the Caribbean. almost 70% which is oleifera has the highest oxidative stability of any vegetable survive disasters such as fire it grows quickly (up to 12 the and drumstick tree due to the elongated stability oftoany vegetable oil available. shape of its pods. Moringa oil also imparts severalto The moringa tree comparable other triglyceride oils such oil available. Moringa oil also imparts several favourable metres per year). In the Philippines theseed moringa tree is known favourable aesthetic properties, such as is also known by various other names aesthetic properties, such as providing a rich, cushiony, as a olive mother’s best friend because moringa leaves ornon-greasy canola. However, moringa oil providing as a rich, cushiony, throughout Africa, Asia, Southare andused to skin-feel with low odour colour toof a mother’s increase theand amount milk, orandare Central America, theboiled Caribbean. a lower iodine value of ~70 g/100 and g fed cosmetic has andchildren. personal care to Informulations. India, the moringa tree is called the drumstick 2 oil compared ~84 shape g/100 forpods. olive The moringa tree due to of the to elongated of itsgseed Ancient history 4,9 moringa treeseed is ~118 alsooilknown by various other names oil. throughout Africa, and g/100 g for canola Iodine 5 Moringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a flowering Asia, South and Central America, and the Caribbean. tree native to the foothills of theindication of how readily the value is one Himalayas in northern India. It is The useparts ofbecome moringa oil, by ancient Egyptians has been recorded will rancid due to oxidation. cultivatedoil in many of the world including in Africa, tropical Americas, Srifact, Egyptologists have documented hieroglyphs. In Another of oxidative stability is Lanka, Malaysia, and theindicator Philippines. various applications and formulas containing moringa oil Not surprisingly, the moringa tree is known the “Oil Stability Index” 6orSome OSI.of Properly by many names. In Senegal it is known for topical pastes and perfumes. the historical uses 2,7,8 as nebeday (the tree that never dies) prepared commercially available moringa of the moringa plant are shown in Table 1. This profile because it is able to survive disasters 1 undoubtedly accounts such as fire andhas it growsan quickly (up to for the historical oil unexpectedly hightherapeutic OSI of 12 metres per year). In the Philippines the moringa tree is known as a mother’s ~133 hours, compared to similarly Composition and best friend because moringa leaves are Physiochemical Properties treated vegetable oils which have typical used to increase the amount of a of Moringa Oil OSI values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil is 2 P E R SMoringa O N A L C A R E Reprinted from June 2011 seeds yield up to 40% oil by cold extraction. The also unique in its low70% freeoleic fatty acid which is resulting oil contains almost triglycerides, content. fatty acids oils cansuch beasirritating comparable Free to other triglyceride olive or canola. However, moringa oil has a oil lower iodine to the skin. Moringa has anvalue acidof ~70 g/100 g compared to ~84 g/100 g for olive oil and4 ~118 g/100 g for value of less than 1 mg KOH/g. canola oil.4,9 Iodine value is one indication of how readily the Unsaponifiable substances, which 1 2,3 4 2 5 4 4 10 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 ABSTRA Moring the see native t certain into ha data in enhanc barrier hydratio was als percept The u Egyptian hieroglyp documen formulas pastes a historica are show This p for the h of the m Comp physio of mo Moringa cold extr almost 7 compara as olive has a low compare and ~11 value is oil will be Another the “Oil S prepared oil1 has a ~133 ho treated v OSI valu also uniq content. to the sk value of Unsap NATU recovery compared to the formulation without which only resulted in 21% barrier tocopherols and sterols, generally oil The willsterol become rancid due tooil oxidation. Anotherinclude indicator of oxidative stability is therecovery,80p<0.05 (Fig. 2). There was no portion in moringa has 5 4,10 70 from 0.7%-1.1% in vegetable content of beta-sitosterol. “Oila high Stability Index” or OSI. Properly preparedrange commercially available moringaoils. oil1statistically significant difference between The sterol portion in moringa oil has the 2% moringa butter formula and the is known its antihasBeta-sitosterol an unexpectedly highforOSI of ~133 hours, compared to similarly treated vegetable 70 a60high content of beta-sitosterol.4,10 5% petrolatum formula (positive control, inflammatory effect and its restorative oilsproperties which have typical OSI values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil is also unique in its low Beta-sitosterol is known for its antiwhich resulted in 79% barrier recovery). which help to support the skin 4,11 freehydrolipid fatty acid content. acids can be irritating to the skin. oil has 60 inflammatory effect and Moringa its restorative barrier. ThisFree may fatty be why 50 4 properties which help to support the skin Skin hydration an moringa acid value of less than 1 mg KOH/g. oil is increasingly used and hydrolipid barrier.4,11 This may be why valued in cosmetics such as anti-age Various butters (moringa, shea, olive, and 50 40 moringa oiland is increasingly used and range cocoa) were incorporated into anhydrous Unsaponifiable sterols, generally creams, soaps,substances, liquid soaps, which body include tocopherols in cosmetics such oil as anti-age washes, deodorants, and face creams. at 10% and tested from 0.7%-1.1% in vegetable oils.5 13The sterolvalued portion in moringa has a high stick formulations 40 30 4,10 creams, soaps, liquid soaps, body for skin hydration using a Corneometer Beta-sitosterol is known for its antiinflammatory effect content of beta-sitosterol. 13 washes, deodorants, and face creams.4,11 CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, An uncommon butter andButters its restorative properties which help to support the skin hydrolipid barrier. Germany)30in a double-blind, randomised, 20 of vegetable oils are increasingly This may be why moringa oil is increasingly used and valued in cosmetics An uncommon butter such as vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study. common to the cosmetic industry. 13 20 show that after one application Butters of vegetable oils arecreams. increasingly The results anti-age creams, soaps, liquid soaps, body washes, deodorants, and face They are typically made by partially 10 common to the cosmetic industry. of the test articles, the formulation hydrogenating common vegetable oils. They are typically made by partially containing contrast, moringa butter is made by 10 10% moringa butter increased AnInUncommon Butter 0 hydrogenating Vehicle common Vehicle +vegetable Positiveoils. skin hydration at every time point up to interesterifying moringa oil and fully 2% moringa In contrast, butter iscontrol made by four hours, far better than any of the other hydrogenated moringa oil,are thusincreasingly preserving common Butters of vegetable oils to themoringa cosmetic 0 butter industry. They Vehicle Vehiclep<0.05 + Positive interesterifying moringa oil and fully butter-containing test articles, the natural cis configuration of each are double typically made by partially hydrogenating hydrogenated common vegetable In preserving contrast, (Fig. 3). The anhydrous 2% moringa control moringa oils. oil, thus stick containing bond. The result is a butter with Figure 2: Average percentage barrier butter moringa butter is made by interesterifying moringa oil and fully hydrogenated the natural the moringa butter produced a peak skin no trans fats. Moringa butter is also recovery (TEWL). cis configuration of each moringa oil,and thus preserving the and natural cis configuration each double bond.with The hydration double bond.ofThe result is a butter of percentage 55%, whichbarrier was odourless less greasy, tacky, Figureincrease 2: Average no trans fats. Moringa butter isless also (TEWL).the skin hydration than double glossy mostwith butters, notablyfats. shea, order to ascertain result is athan butter no trans Moringaproperties) butter isinalso odourless andthe greasy, morerecovery odourless and less greasy, tacky, and in produced by any of the other test articles. and and can contribute to strength in stick notablybenefits on skin barrier recovery due to tacky, glossy than most butters, shea, and can contribute to strength glossy mostskin butters, notably shea, properties) in order to ascertain the systems. It is also extremely oxidatively damage bythan a known irritant, sodium stick systems. It is also extremely oxidativelylauryl stable with an even lower iodine value. The acid value alsobarrier remains less than and can contribute to strength inwater stick benefits on skin recovery due to1 mg stable with an even lower iodine value. sulfate (SLS). Transepidermal Consumer perception KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy to work with because melting pointoxidatively of 50°C toA 55°C. systems. It its isused also extremely damage by randomised a known skincomparative irritant, sodium The acid value also remains less than loss (TEWL) of was to measure the double-blind, stableofwith an even lower value. studylauryl (SLS). Transepidermal water 1 mg KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy to recovery the skin barrier in aiodine doubleusingsulfate two anhydrous stick In work orderwith to because test the ofpotential benefit butter in aalso small studies were investigating The acid value remains than clinical loss (TEWL) wascarried used to out measure the its melting point of moringa blind, randomised, informulation, vivo clinicalless study. formulations containing 10% moringa 1 was mg and KOH/g. Moringa butter isaseasy recovery of the skin barrier in a doublemoringa skin hydration, wellto as butter consumer perception of respectively, various product of 50˚Cbutter’s to 55˚C.benefit on skin barrier recovery TEWL determined using a Tewameter and 10% shea butter, 13randomised, work with because of its melting point blind, in vivo clinical study. In order to test the potential benefit TM300 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, was conducted by 31 female consumers attributes. The clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed beneficial to the skin. of 50˚C 55˚C. untreated forearm TEWL was determined using a Tewameter of moringa butter in a formulation, Germany) onto normal, for various product aesthetics including In order to the potential benefit suchTM300 (Courage+Khazaka, small clinical studies were carried out skin (baseline). Thetest forearms were then attributes as absorbency, Cologne, Skin Barrier Recovery of moringa butter in a formulation, Germany)moisturisation, on normal, untreated forearm investigating moringa butter’s benefit on exposed to a 0.3% solution (w/w) of spreadability, and nonsmall clinical studies were carried out skin (baseline). The forearms were then skin barrier recovery and skin hydration, SLS for approximately 18 hours under greasiness. In all cases the formulation A simple lotion formulation with and without 2% moringa butter (Floralipids Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated investigating moringa butter’s benefit on exposed to a 0.3% solution (w/w) of as well as consumer perception of various occlusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers containing 10% moringa butter was Moringa Oil Esters, Floratech, Chandler, AZ) was tested against the same lotion formulation containing 5% petrolatum (positive barrier recovery and skin hydration, preferred SLS for approximately 18 hours under product attributes. The clinical results (Hill skin Top Research, Cincinnati, Ohio). over the formulation containing control because of its known occlusion properties) in order to ascertain the benefits on skinshea barrier recovery due toTop damage by a asmeasurements well as consumer of various 10%occlusion using 194). mm show that the moringa butter is indeed TEWL wereperception again made butter (Fig. In Hill terms ofChambers known skin to irritant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) used to measure the recovery of the skin 13 product attributes.chamber The clinical results was (Hill Top Research, Cincinnati, Ohio). beneficial the skin. 30 minutes following removal “overall” preference, the formula containing barrier in a doubleblind, randomised, in vivo clinical TEWL wasbutter determined a Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka, that the moringa indeedusing TEWLmoringa measurements were again made and show the study. percentage increase fromisbaseline the 10% butter was preferred 13 to the 30 minutes following chamber removal was beneficial determined. The skin. forearms were thenwere five to exposed one over to the containing Skin Germany) barrier recovery Cologne, on normal, untreated forearm skin (baseline). The forearms then aformula 0.3% solution (w/w) of andResearch, the percentage increaseOhio). from baseline treated hourly with the 10% shea butter. simple lotion formulation with and SLSA for approximately 18 hours under occlusion using 19 mm Hillabove Top mentioned Chambers (HilltheTop Cincinnati, TEWL was determined. The forearms were then Skin barrier recovery lotion formulations, followed by additional without 2% moringa butter (Floralipids measurements were again made 30 minutes following chamber removal and the percentage increase from baseline was determined. treated hourly with the above mentioned A measurements simple lotion formulation witheach and TEWL an hour after Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa Conclusion TheOil/Hydrogenated forearms were Moringa then treated hourly with the above mentioned lotion formulations, followed additional measurements lotionby formulations, followed byseed additional without 2% butter (Floralipids application. The moringa percentage barrier recovery Moringa Oil Esters, butter is derivedTEWL from the an Floratech, hour afterChandler, each application. The percentage barrier recovery was then determined relative to the baseline values. The results TEWL measurements an hour after Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa was then determined relative to the AZ) was tested oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to each application. The percentage barrier recovery Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, baseline values. The results show that after against the same lotion formulation the Himalayan region of northern India. show that after two applications, the formulation containing 2% moringa butter resulted in 67% barrier recovery compared to the was thenstatistically determined relative to the Chandler, AZ) was (Fig. tested two Floratech, applications, the formulation containing containing without 5% petrolatum The was moringa tree’s various parts have been formulation which(positive only resulted in 21% barrier recovery, p<0.05 2). There no significant difference values. results show that after against the same lotion in formulation 2% moringa butter resulted 67% barrier control because of its known occlusion usedbaseline for centuries forThe their natural healing between the 2% moringa butter formula and the 5% petrolatum formula (positive control, which resulted inthe 79% barrier recovery). two applications, formulation containing 5% petrolatum (positive benefits. Clinical results show that thecontaining 2% moringa in 67% barrier control because of its known occlusion moringa butter isbutter indeedresulted beneficial to the Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree. skin. In addition, a consumer panel was Plant part Medicinal applications able to perceive differences in important Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree. product attributes when comparing a Roots Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator, and laxative creates and manufactures Plant part Medicinal applications formulation SILAB containing moringa butter with unique, consistently safe, natural Bark Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers the same formulation containing another activeand ingredients efficacy. Roots Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator, laxative with proven Leaves Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative marketed butter.13 Moringa butter can be Bark Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers Rubber Astringent for healing tooth decay included within formulations in the same Leaves Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative manner as You other butters, with much Flowers Treat inflammation, muscular pain, and tumors need more information about our products? Rubber Astringent for healing tooth decay enhanced formulation capabilities, such as Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: Seeds Antibiotic email: silabinc@silabinc.com Flowers Treat inflammation, muscularenhanced pain, and tumors aesthetic and increased product phone: 732-335-1030 Pods Hypertensive effect stability. Moringa butter is truly a modern Seeds Antibiotic Oil Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments PC day miracle from pre-antiquity. Pods Hypertensive effect include tocopherols and sterols, generally Morninga Continued: in vegetable oils.5 range Butter from 0.7%-1.1% Barrier recovery – relative to baseline (%) Barrier recovery – relative to baseline (%) 80 Oil Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments Reprinted from June P E R 2015 S O N A L C AIMWSCC R E 3 11 3rd2011 Quarter recovery without recovery statistic the 2% 5% petr which re Skin Various cocoa) stick for for skin CM 825 German vehicle The resu of the te containi skin hyd four hou butter-c (Fig. 3). the mor hydratio more th produce Cons A doubl study us formula butter a was con for vario such at spreada greasine containi preferre 10% sh “overall the 10% five to o the 10% Conc Moringa oil of M the Him The mo used fo benefits moringa skin. In able to product formula the sam markete included manner enhanc enhanc stability. day mir C o s m e t i c S c i e n c e, N a t u r a l l y. Olivatis™ is a family of high-performing natural emulsifiers from Coast Southwest. These novel ingredients are derived from olive oil. They impart a luxurious skin feel and elegant texture while providing stability to the finished product. PEG-free To learn more, visit coastsouthwest.com/olivatis 1-800-621-0500 | coastsouthwest.com 12 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 References Skin Hydration Various butters (moringa, shea, olive, and cocoa) were incorporated into anhydrous stick formulations at 10% and tested for skin hydration using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) in a double-blind, randomised, vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study. The results show that after one application of the test articles, the formulation containing 10% moringa butter increased skin hydration at every time point up to four hours, far better than any of the other butter-containing test articles, p<0.05 (Fig. 3). The anhydrous stick containing the moringa butter produced a peak skin hydration increase of 55%, which was more than double the skin hydration produced by any of the other test articles. Consumer Perception TA double-blind, randomised comparative study using two anhydrous stick formulations containing 10% moringa butter and 10% shea butter, respectively, was conducted by 31 female consumers for various product aesthetics including such attributes as absorbency, spreadability, moisturisation, and nongreasiness. In all cases the formulation containing 10% moringa butter was preferred over the formulation containing 10% shea butter (Fig. 4). In terms of “overall” preference, the formula containing the 10% moringa butter was preferred five to one over the formula containing the 10% shea butter. Conclusion Hydration change from baseline (%) Morninga Butter Continued: 7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera 1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National (drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev Institutes of Health) Record, LX NATURALS (6), 3 March (Supp); 2 (4): 7-13. 2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). 8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/ McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting 03_21_2008/story4.htm 60ML. The moringa tree echo technical source of active ingredients for skin and hair 2 Price care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52. note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed Vehicle stick + 10% moringa butter 9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract 13 50 April 2011). www.echonet.org/ as an alternative natural antioxidant for repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree 40 canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8): 3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian SC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad, Vehicle stick + 10% shea butter 817-22. 30 10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971. and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac(Revised 20 and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS, Vehicle stick + 10% Cocoa butter induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989). Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8. 4 Rigano 10 L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed stick + 10%Journal Olive butter 11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K, oil – the new soulVehicle of cosmetics. SOFW 0 137 (3), 48-54. Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory and 2011; Vehicle antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta 5 Names for Moringa. Trees stick for Life International. –10(accessed 13 April 2011). Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63. Web 0.5 1 2 3 4 12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed [treesforlife.org/moringa/names] Time (hours) 13 April 2011). www.moringaoil.com/ 6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian applications. herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas Figure 3: Average percentage change in skin hydration. 13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033. Press printing, 1989, 122-3. References 7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera 1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National Overall preference ■ 10% moringa butter (drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March ■ 10% shea butter (Supp); 2 (4): 7-13. 2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). 80% Smoothness 8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/ Payout McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting 03_21_2008/story4.htm 60% source of active ingredients for skin and hair 2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical 40% care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52. note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed 9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract 13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/ 20% as an alternative natural antioxidant for repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8): 3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian Non-greasy Absorbency 817-22. SC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad, 10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971. and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac(Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS, induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989). Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8. 4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed 11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K, oil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal Less sticky Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory and 2011; 137 Moisturisation (3), 48-54. antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta 5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International. Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). Spreadability 12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed [treesforlife.org/moringa/names] 13 April 2011). www.moringaoil.com/ 6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian Figure 4: Average percentage consumer preference. applications. herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas 13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033. Press printing, 1989, 122-3. 4 P E R S O N A L C A R E Reprinted from June 2011 ■ 10% moringa butter ■ 10% shea butter Payout Moringa butter is derived from the seed oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to the Himalayan region of northern India. The moringa tree’s various parts have been used for centuries for their natural healing benefits. Clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed beneficial to the skin. In addition, a consumer panel was able to Non-greasy perceive differences in important product attributes when comparing a formulation containing moringa butter with the same formulation containing another marketed butter.13 Moringa butter can be included within formulations in the same manner as other butters, with much enhanced formulation capabilities, such as enhanced aesthetic and Moisturisation increased product stability. Moringa butter is truly a modern day miracle from pre-antiquity. Overall preference Bioengineering Smoothness the best active cosmetic ingredients since 1946 80% 60% 40% 20% Absorbency www.induchem.com 212.756.9918 salesusa@induchem.com Spreadability Figure 4: Average percentage consumer preference. Less sticky 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 13 Morninga Butter Continued: References 1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March 2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www. nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/03_21_2008/story4.htm 2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/repositories#110:d:TheM oringaTree 3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian SC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad, India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971. (Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS, Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989). 4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed oil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal 2011; 137 (3), 48-54. 5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). [treesforlife.org/moringa/names] 6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas Press printing, 1989, 122-3. 7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera (drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev (Supp); 2 (4): 7-13. 8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting source of active ingredients for skin and hair care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52. 9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract as an alternative natural antioxidant for canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8):817-22. 10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenacinduced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8. 11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K, Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory and antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63. 12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www. moringaoil.com/applications. 13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033. High demand personal care ingredients to inspire you. • Argan Oil • Tea Tree Oil • Red Palm Oil • Natural Silicone • Sweet Almond Alternative • Natural Lanolin Oil Alternative • Jojoba Oil Find more info at www.charkit.com Lipo to become 14 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 www.mariposalabs.com 10 Question Company Spotlight: Mariposa Labs By: Lisa Swain 1. Company Name? Mariposa Labs LLC 2. Year Established? 2001 3. Location(s)? Boise ID 4. Number of Employees and Number of R&D Employees? 33 full time employees, 4 R & D Staff 5. Number of Employees that Belong to the SCC? Our Head Chemist & Technical Director is a Member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, but many of us are big fans of the organization! 6. Company Certifications/Capabilities? Mariposa Labs maintains Standard Operating Procedures designed to comply with all relevant sections of Part 210 of the Code of Federal Regulations. We implement significant training and follow up to insure compliance. We are routinely inspected by the FDA, various State and Local government agencies, 3rd party auditors and several large customers for compliance. Mariposa Labs is registered with and inspected by the FDA. We also maintain registrations and permits with the ATF for alcohol use and several state and local entities. Recently, we successfully completed Halal Certification and Gluten Free Certification for several product lines we manufacture. We can package and label a wide array of jars and bottles, from 0.33 oz to Gallons, as well as fill & crimp tubes, in both plastic and aluminum, as small as 0.33 oz up to 9 oz fill. 7. Types of Products Produced? A very general and brief product capabilities summary: Body Care, Facial Care, Hair Care, Spa Treatment, Massage, Men’s Specialty Products, Baby/Children’s Products, & Pet Products, Perfume & Cologne, Home Care and Fragrance. 8. Name & Position of Person filling out the spotlight? Lisa Swain, Director Of Business Development 9. What is your favorite product your company produces and why? Without question, my favorite product we manufacture is Toe Juice. Wacky, but memorable name and a very effective product for the whole family. Toe Juice cures a wide array of skin issues: Bug bites, rashes, breakouts, athlete’s foot, and ingrown hair, to name a few. I keep several bottles at home and always take one when we travel. The brand owners first told us that it can fix most everything, much like Windex in the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding. And they were right! Any skin related injury, bug bite or ailment and the first thing we say is “you should put Toe Juice on it! “ https://www.toejuice.com/ 10. What makes your company unique, why should clients work with you above anyone else? Our primary goal is to operate a safe and ethical factory while producing great products for our customers. We aim to never lose a customer we want to keep and to never chase big customers or product lines that would strain our capacity to perform. Our unique capabilities lie within our employees and our overall company culture. We make sound hiring decisions and have a very high employee retention rate. Our employees are committed to us and our customers’ satisfaction. We retain customers and develop partnerships by focusing on overhead, staff efficiency, teamwork, a tight product, customer focus, and outstanding customer service. Our most unique strategy is that every aspect of our planning involves flexibility for our customers: we focus on hiring flexible employees, purchasing flexible equipment, and maintaining flexible schedules. At the end of the day, we really do keep our customers happy. We have the ability to do both large and small production runs. A combination of large and small production runs actually complements us very well, it allows us to fully utilize our equipment and fulltime personnel. GRAND SEMINAR November 5, 2015 Salt Lake City, Utah 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 15 TnT IMWSCC 3rd Quarter Meeting September 9-10, 2015 Zermatt Resort Midway, Utah Schedule Wednesday 8:00am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in 9:00am – Announcements & quarter sponsor remarks 9:15am – David Steinberg, Regulatory Affairs 10:15am – Break 10:30am – Nick Morante, Colorant Basics for Cosmetics 11:45pm – Lunch Thursday 7:30am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in 8:30am – Shotgun start 12:00pm – Lunch & prizes Thanks for your attendance! 16 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 Presenters for TnT Nick Morante David Steinberg Nick Morante is currently a Senior Chemist at IFC Solutions (formerly International Foodcraft) in New Jersey where he works with many types of colors and additives for both the food and cosmetics industries utilizing them in many different applications. He has over 40 years of experience in the formulation of cosmetics, personal care products and makeup products. Prior to joining IFC, Nick was a consultant to the cosmetics industry for over 10 years providing custom formulations for clients as well as giving presentations and seminars to various companies and organizations within the cosmetics industry providing guidance in the practical use of color in consumer products. He is current an adjunct faculty member at Fairleigh Dickinson University’s School of Natural Sciences in Hackensack, NJ where he is an instructor in the Master of Science Program in Cosmetic Science. In 1995 David Steinberg founded Steinberg & Associates, a consulting firm for the Cosmetic industry, specializing in the Chemistry of Cosmetic Ingredients, Preservatives and preservation, International and US regulations, domestic and international labeling of cosmetics and cosmetic drugs; and marketing of ingredients. He is an expert witness in patent, business issues and injury cases dealing in the personal care area. Senior Chemist IFC Solutions Nick also spent over 30 years Research and Development at The Estée Lauder Companies where he was both a formulator and laboratory manager in the corporate makeup and hair care departments. He was also in charge of the Color Science Laboratory where he was responsible for color measurement and spectrophotometric analysis of finished products, ingredients and human skin as it relates to color that is used in various cosmetic products, as well as developing testing protocols and methodologies for many color applications. Nick holds a Bachelor of Science degree from The New York Institute of Technology. He has taken numerous continuing education courses in the area of cosmetic science. He is a long time member of The Society of Cosmetic Chemists and has been active both on the local and national levels having served on the executive committee for the Long Island Chapter and on the National Board, serving as Area Director and National Secretary. He has been elected a Fellow of the Society and is an instructor for the Society’s Continuing Education Program (CEP) Program in the area of color and makeup formulation and troubleshooting. He has given many seminars and presentations worldwide. He has been awarded numerous patents and has contributed many articles and papers and authored chapters to numerous cosmetic, technical and beauty publications and texts. Founder Steinberg & Associates In 2006, Mr. Steinberg founded the Cosmetic Preservative Council and is the Executive Director. In 2008 , he founded Report Reaction, LLC to assist clients in complying with new FDA OTC labeling requirements. David is the founder of the Master’s Degree Program in Cosmetic Sciences at Fairleigh Dickinson University. He also earned a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from Drexel University and an MBA Management degree from Pace University. Mr. Steinberg’s robust history with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists includes appointments as the New York Chapter Chair in 1979, Treasurer of the National organization in 1987 & 1988, and SCC National President in 1991. He also received the SCC Merit Award in 1985, and was elected an SCC Fellow in 1987. David is a member of the American Chemical Society, Regulatory Affairs Professional Society, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and Praesidium: International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists. Nature’s Science. Our Technology. Your Beauty. ™ by www.ajiaminobeauty.com 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 17 HORN Care Elements caters to the personal care, hair care, skin care, cosmetics, home care, industrial and institutional (HI&I) cleaning, fragrances and air care industries. Represented by seasoned experts, HORN Care Elements services its principals and customers by providing unmatched formulation expertise, problem-solving capabilities and superior customer service. HORN orchestrates success. Challenge us and let us know how we can help. HORN pROudly REpREsENts: Abitec Corp. Air products Bayer Materialscience Cabot Corp. Cargill Fragrance West Grain processing Corp. Impact Colors, Inc. J.M. Huber Corp. Momentive performance products Multiceras Natural sourcing, llC careelements@ethorn.com • 800.442.4676 • www.ethorn.com IMWSCC Horn CE 7x5 Ad.indd 1 2/27/15 11:51 AM Client: Description: Production: Insertion: 18 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015 Horn IMWSCC Ad February 2015 February 2015 Ad Size: Bleed: Color: Output: 7” x 5” n/a 4/C 100% 19000 MacArthur Boulevard, Floor 8, Irvine, CA 92612 Creative Direction: Paul Kokinakes 949.809.6760 paul@kokinakesdesign.com Production: Hannah Bergan 949.809.6710 hannah@kokinakesdesign.com I I Kelsey Larsen: kelseyl@nuskin.com Summary of May Meeting By: Kelsey Larsen We don’t choose theme songs for our SCC meetings but, if we did, I would choose “Here Comes the Sun” by the Beatles for our May meeting. The morning started out a bit cloudy and rainy at the Thanksgiving Point Gardens. We listened to two speakers. Joy from Integrity spoke about a plant-based SPF boosters. Interestingly enough, some plants have chemical components similar in structure to OMC and avobenzone. (I may have to find these plants and buy them. Way cool). Brooke from Kemin spoke about oregano, how it grows and its potential preservation properties in cosmetics. I guess Oregano isn’t just for spaghetti sauce. Nature really is smart and efficient. After the speakers and a yummy Mexican lunch, the sun came out and we were able to tour the gardens. Having the meeting at the gardens seemed to be in line with our talks about plant cosmetic actives. Thanks Integrity for sponsoring our meeting. 3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 19 IMWSCC would like to thank our Third Quarter Meeting Sponsors: AAK LIPSCOMB 20 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015