Installation Guide for Custom Console Mods Xbox 360 (3

Installation Guide for Custom Console Mods Xbox 360 (3-mode Rapid fire kit)
This mod kit works for all versions of the Xbox 360 wireless controllers. This guide is designed to aid you in installing the Mod kit that you
purchased from Custom Console Mods. We have simplified the installation for you and the microchip will determine the type of controller that
you have (i.e. Matrix or CG), and make the necessary adjustments through the code that is infused in the microchip. You must follow all
instructions in this guide or you microchip will not function correctly.
I try to cover all parts and questions that you may have in this guide. If you have never soldered before, please learn how to first before
attempting this installation. You will be working with small parts in this install which after learning proper soldering techniques, will allow for a
much smoother and successful installation. Soldering is not hard to do, but takes time to master
I have included a wiring diagram on page 17 of this guide that will also assist with the installation of this kit. There is also a troubleshooting table
on pages 15 to 16 that may help if you run into some issues
Take note that I describe how to install the kit on both the New and Old style controller and point the difference out in red lettering.
Warning: Proceed with this installation at your own risk. Any Microsoft warranty will be void on the controller once you open it. I will not be
held responsible for any damage you cause to your controller or any equipment.
What is included in this kit: (Check contents)
• 1 pre-programmed microcontroller.
• 3’ of 30 AWG wire.
• 4 LED’s (optional to install)
Tools you will need:
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Wire strippers
• Hot glue gun
• Torx T8 security screwdriver (A small flat head screwdriver will also work)
May be a black or clear package
depending on the color LED kit you
bought
Note: Most of these tools can be purchased at radio shack or you may already have these items in your home.
Step 1 - (take apart the controller)
Take the controller apart. There are 7 screws to take off. Three on each side of the controller and one hidden one behind the battery pack. There
is a small label that the screw is behind.
You should use a Torx 8 security screwdriver here, but you can get away with just using a small flat head screwdriver. Just put it to the side of the
small pin in the middle. You can also snap the pin in the middle and it will be easier to unscrew.
Note: Face the top of the controller down (buttons facing down when opening the controller) or the pieces will fall out. No problem if they do,
they just need to be put back. You may need to pry the back off a little as it is a tight fit.
7 Screws
Step 2 - (identify controller type)
Determine the controller type. Your controller will either be a CG or Matrix type controller. This is important in future steps and both
installations are covered. Your mod chip will not work unless installed correctly so please take note.
Two Chips – The cover on the left chip may or may
not be present on your controller.
Old Style Controller
One Chip – 45 degree angle
New Style Controller
Step 3 - (identify pin placement)
Let’s take a closer look at your new microcontroller. For this mod kit, we will be using pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, & 8 as noted below. Pin 5 will not be
used for this kit. We will be soldering wires to these pins in the next step.
5
4
6
3
7
2
8
1
Note the small notch on 1 side of the controller. Use
this for reference on where the pin numbers are.
Pin 1 or 8
4
5
N/A
Player 4 LED
3
6
Left Trigger
Sync Button
2
7
Right Trigger
Power
1
8
Ground
Microcontroller is flipped over. Take note of pin
numbers.
Step 4 - (cut and solder wires to microcontroller)
For this step, you are first going to cut 7 pieces of wire. Cut two pieces about ½ inch long, one piece about 1 inch long, one piece about 3 inches
long, one piece about 4 inches long, and two pieces about 5 inches long. Next strip about 1/8th inches from each side of the cut wires. Any more
than that may cause a short in the wiring as the wires move around. We cut these pieces to length to allow room for error. You do not want too
much slack in the wire as the wires can get in the way of other pieces.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
5 inch piece gets soldered to pin 1
3 inch piece gets soldered to pin 2
4 inch piece gets soldered to pin 3
1 inch piece gets soldered to pin 4
5 inch piece gets soldered to pin 6
½ inch piece gets soldered to pin 7
½ inch piece gets soldered to pin 8
Now it’s time to solder. Following the instructions above as to what wires go where, go ahead and solder these into place. For pin 4, if you have
a New Style controller, solder the wire from pin 4 to pin 8 (you will have two wires to pin 8 so you can twist the wires first if you like. If you have
an Old Style controller, solder the wire from pin 4 to pin 1 (again, you will have two wires to pin 1 so you can twist the wires first if you like).
Pin 1 or 8
4
5
N/A
Player 4 LED
3
6
Left Trigger
Sync Button
2
7
Right Trigger
Power
1
8
Ground
Notch
Step 5 - (attach microcontroller to PCB)
Now we can use the hot glue gun to attach the microchip to the circuit board. Point the notch to the right hand side of the controller. This will
allow the wire to be routed neatly after installation is complete.
Glue here as this is a good place to keep it out of the way of
other parts of the controller.
Notch is on right hand side.
Step 6 - (solder pin 7 to right trigger point)
Now to start routing and soldering the wires to the appropriate solder points on the PCB. Right above where you just glued the chip, you will see
a set of three solder points. The point in the middle is going to be used for the right trigger (pin7). Solder the wire from pin 7 to the middle of the
three pins.
Step 7 - (solder pin 6 to left trigger point)
Now on the left side of the controller, you will see a set of three solder points just like on the right side. The point in the middle is going to be
used for the left trigger (pin6). Solder the wire from pin 6 to the middle of the three pins.
Step 8 - (solder pin 8 to appropriate ground point)
Next, Depending on your controller type, you will solder the wire from pin 8 to either the right-most or the left-most of the three solder points. If
you have an old style controller, you will solder the wire from pin 8 to the right-most solder point. If you have a new style controller, you will
solder the wire from pin 8 to the left most solder point.
If Old Style Controller – Solder wire on pin 8 to the right-most of
the three solder points
If New Style Controller – Solder wire on pin 8 to the left-most of
the three solder points
Step 9 - (solder pin 2 to player 4 LED)
Now we will solder the wire from pin 2 to the player for indicator LED. With this part you need to be careful. These LED’s are very small and will
not stand up to too much heat. What you need to do is solder the wire to one end of the LED. Try for the bottom as shown below. What I have
found to be the easiest thing to do is to put a little bit of solder onto the bottom of the LED first. This will give you a little more padding to work
with. Then attach the wire to the LED.
Note: When routing this wire (and all the wire for that matter), pay attention to where the wire will rest after installation is complete. You do
not want the wires to interfere with any other operation of the controller. Keep wire away for the black pads as this is where the button
operation is. Use the glue gun if needed and apply “Small” amounts to tack the wires in place. Not too much glue as that could get in the way as
well.
Step 10 - (solder pin 1 to power point)
Now we will solder the power wire (pin 1). Make reference to the pictures below.
Old Style – Power point is on the left side of
controller on the bottom. Solder to the leftmost
of the three holes.
New Style – Power point is towards the middle of
the controller on the bottom.
Step 11 - (Solder pin 3 to sync button)
Now to install the wire from pin 3 to the sync button on your controller! Make reference to the pictures below depending on the controller style
that you have.
Old Style – Use the solder point noted below. This
is located just below to the left of the actual sync
button. Top point.
New Style – Use the middle solder point on the
sync button.
Step 12 - (close the case and cut out some of the controller if needed to make it fit)
Carefully try to put the controller back together and close the case. Do not force the case closed. You do not want to break the mod chip pins if
they are in the way of other parts. Even after you follow all of the instruction, you may have a hard time putting the controller back together.
The microchip may be touching some of the top part of the controller and will not allow you to snap the case back in. Don’t worry. We can solve
this. Just cut out some, but not all, of the plastic shown below in the circles. You may just need about ¼ inch or so. Start small and test. You may
even need to cut somewhere else depending on your placement of the mod chip. In most cases, you will not have to cut the controller to make it
fit. If you do not want to cut the controller, you could always try to re-glue the mod chip in a different position if you have the room.
You’re done!
Now let’s try out your new rapid fire controller!
Important things to remember out your modded controller:
Do not hold down the trigger buttons when turning on the controller. This may turn on rapid fire without pressing the trigger button and you do
not want this. If that happens, just unplug the battery pack for a few moments and plug back in. The microchip goes through a special set of
instruction whenever power is first given to it. In other words, whenever you take the rechargeable battery pack out or install new batteries.
Think of it as a reset option. When you first give power to the controller with the mod chip installed the player 4 LED may light up without the
controller on yet. This is okay and it depends on the type of controller you have. Leave this on and press the guide button to turn the controller
on. It only takes a few moments for the microchip to go through these instructions. The chip is identifying what type of controller you have (i.e.
Matrix or CG and makes the necessary adjustments for your mod chip to work. Now you can turn rapid fire off and on as you like.
Enable/disable rapid fire:
The player 4 indicator light will identify if rapid fire is active or not. Player 4 light on means rapid fire is active, and off means rapid fire is
disabled. Just click the sync button to cycle through the 3 modes and turn rapid fire off. Switching modes will be identified by the player for light
blinking.
•
•
•
•
Off.
Mode 1 – 1 blink: Both triggers have rapid fire enabled. Good for Halo 3.
Mode2 – 2 blinks: Right trigger only. Good for COD4.
Mode3 – 3 blinks: Right trigger only. COD 5 compatibility mode.
Note: Mode 3 is the only mode that will work with COD 5. The other modes will be detected and your guns will be capped out for the remainder
of the match. Capping out is only enabled in the match you are in and then it resets. This mod does not disable any detection of rapid fire; it just
fires at the fastest rate possible without capping out. Quickly pulling the trigger button multiple times with rapid fire enabled (even Mode 3 –
COD 5 mode) may cause rapid fire to be capping out for the match.
I hope you enjoy your product form Custom Console Mods and the experience of modding your own controller. Come check us out at
www.CustomConsoleMods.com and see what other products we will have. You can also see our products on our eBay store
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/custom-console-mods
Troubleshooting
Issue
Solution
LED that wire is solder to does not light up?
Check the solder connections mainly on pins 1, 2, & 8. Make sure
no solder joints are connected (i.e. pins connected). Make sure
there are no splits in the wire. Also make sure solder joints on
board are correct for controller type and that they are solid
connections.
LED light is on, but does not switch modes when I press the sync
button. (LED does not blink)?
Check the solder connections on pins 2 and 8. If the LED light is
on, this means you have power. There is just something wrong
with the button connection. Make sure pin 2 on the chip was
used. Also check the solder connections and that there are no
splits in these wires.
Rapid fire shoots on its own when it is on and I am not pressing
the trigger.
Sometimes this will happen if the trigger button was pressed
while turning on the controller or switching the rapid fire on/off
while the controller is still syncing. Take the battery pack /
batteries out of the controller for a few seconds. Then put them
back in and turn the controller on. Do not press any other
buttons while controller is turning on and syncing with the Xbox.
(May have to do this a few times)
LED constantly blinks/flashes without changing modes.
Usually this has to do with the batteries. If using batteries, try
replacing them with new batteries. If using a rechargeable
battery pack, try recharging it. Also, sometimes “rechargeable
batteries” (not the rechargeable battery pack) causes some
issues and you may have to try new rechargeable batteries or
regular batteries.
Controller randomly fires from time to time on its own.
Trigger does not work at all either when rapid fire is on or off
You may have a short somewhere. Perhaps too much was
stripped from the end of the wire and it will sometimes touch
another pin or part on the circuit board. There may be a split in
one of the wires somewhere and is touching another part on the
board. Basically, make sure all solder connections are proper and
the wires are properly stripped at the ends (not to long).
Usually this means that when you made the solder connections
for the trigger, you shorted the circuit. Make sure that you did
not solder the trigger pins on the board with the pins above or
below it. Also check the pins on the chip primarily pin 7 and 8
and make sure those pins are not soldered together.
Wiring Diagram