Click for PDF - Patrik Sandberg

LAST THINGS FIRST
LAST THINGS FIRST
Once the symbol of total rebellion, the
humble T-shirt has become a mainstay
of our everyday lives. This spring,
however, a new book will seek to
reclaim the counterculture value of that
particular wardrobe staple.
Ripped: T-shirts from the Underground
traces the role of the Tee from the
days of ’60s rock to ’70s post-punk to
’80s pop, showcasing styles worn by
everyone from John Cale to the Germs
to Madonna. Selected from vintage
fashion collector Cesar Padilla’s
personal archives, the rare shirts make
for a highly visual history of one iconic
piece of clothing. Jeff Groen
BURGLAR
For those who have ever spent
any significant amount of time
searching for that perfect
crewneck sweatshirt that’s
been washed so many times
yet miraculously remains
both sturdy and soft, you are
not alone. Burglar.Co.,Ltd, a
Swedish brand launched in 2008
that specializes in workwear and
military-inspired basics, is the
brainchild of one such tireless
aficionado of vintage garments
and hand craftsmanship.
Sebastian Bacigalupe traveled
over three years to far-flung
locations in order to find
precisely the right materials
and manufacturing techniques
needed to execute his vision. The
comfortable, effortless pieces
that resulted belie their carefully
researched origins. Burglar.
Co.,Ltd will soon offer a wider
range of accessories and leather
products, but in the meantime,
Bacigalupe is working on a bag
made from his most recent find,
a hundred-year-old cotton and
canvas sail. Sometimes it’s just
easier to let someone else do the
legwork for you. Grace Kapin.
BLACKOUT
T-SHIRTS
BOOK
Ripped: T-shirts from the Underground is
out in March 2010 from Rizzoli
IN A BOOK
CLOTHING
BOOK
MAGNUS UNNAR
The environmentalist Edward Abbey once said, “You can’t study the
darkness by flooding it with light,” but David Nye is out to prove him
wrong. In his new book, When the Lights Went Out, Nye traces the 20thcentury significance of a blanket of night falling over society. The imposed
blackouts during World War II make an appearance as examples of
military action. New York City’s 1965 and 1977 blackouts are contrasted
to reflect the dissolution in societal bonds in those decades. California’s
rolling blackouts in 2000 and the power failure that brought down
the northeast in 2003 demonstrate the nation’s increasingly creaky
infrastructure. Through causes economic, strategic, environmental, or
just plain belligerent, Nye explores the effect of darkness on the American
mind, painting a picture of a modern civilization so consumed with life
under glowing bulbs that night itself seems unnatural. Jonathan Shia
These days, no architect is complete without his own
monograph. Now, Tham & Videgård Arkitekter are preparing
to join the big leagues with their new book from Arvinius
Förlag. Bolle Tham and Martin Videgård, the duo behind the
Stockholm-based boutique firm, have built a reputation over
the past decade for their nuanced creations that reflect and
react to their surroundings in an environmentally-sensitive
way. Tham and Videgård, who were profiled in our last issue,
approach each commission with fresh eyes and a sensitivity
to the project’s unique circumstances, a practice that makes
each of the buildings collected in the self-titled book, edited
by Tomas Lauri, a refreshing surprise. All of Tham & Videgård
Arkitekter’s greatest hits are here, from the reputationmaking Kalmar Museum of Art to their colorful interior for the
Humlegården Apartment, showcasing a body of work that
pushes architecture forward without sacrificing its humanity.
Jonathan Shia
Fashion design is not an
easy game to play these
days. But amid the darkness
and downsizing, there are
a few young designers who
have chosen the current
atmosphere of upheaval as
the perfect time to expand.
Endovanera’s David Michael
Hershberger is one such
radical, opting to launch his
first complete womenswear
collection for Fall 2010 in
addition to the men’s line he
has been producing since
2005. The women’s pieces
will take their cues from
men’s cuts and fabrics while
adhering to the brand’s core
principle of wearability and
its multifarious inspirations
(medieval warriors and
gypsies among them).
Grace Kapin
BOOK
Magnus Unnar’s ebullient photographs
have long been injecting a dose
of much-needed vitality into the
arm of fashion. This spring, Unnar
administers another jolt with his
first book release, In the Middle of
Something. The stunning monograph,
out now in a limited run of five hundred
copies, showcases an amalgam of
twenty-seven images in vibrant color,
shot over the course of several years
in New York, London, and Iceland.
Focusing on themes of friends and
family as they relate to place and time,
In the Middle is a landmark release
from one of the most cunning artists in
fashion. Patrik Sandberg
Teengirl Fantasy might be thought of less as a fantasy about teen girls and more of what a teenage girl’s
deepest fantasies might sound like. Comprised of Oberlin College friends Nick Weiss and Logan Takahashi
(both male), this L.A.-meets-New-Jersey-in-Ohio-and-sometimes-Amsterdam duo has constructed a
sound that is nearly impossible to categorize. Part 4/4 rhythm electronic house, part swirling melodic
shoegaze, and part booty techno, their lengthy tracks are oftentimes sped up and slowed down in blessed-out
simultaneity. When asked which word they would invent to make up their own genre tag, Takahashi decidedly
states: “sleephouse,” without even pausing to think. Their ability to get crowds going, even in Brooklyn, has
resulted in a few heated situations. “Once, in Baltimore, a couple was having actual sex on top of the table
with our gear on it,” recalls Weiss. “I had to actually push against the guy’s back to keep them off of me. He
was all sweaty. It was really gross.”
Patrik Sandberg
Teengirl Fantasy’s debut full-length is out
in May 2010 from True Panther US/Merok UK.
Photography Marco Roso
TEENGIRL
FANTASY
SHOP
DOROTHY IANNONE
American expatriate artist Dorothy
Iannone has spent decades
channeling her own life story into
her psychedelic and highly sexual
paintings. In recent years, the
Berlin-based Iannone has become
something of an icon to the Peres
Projects–set, and fittingly she will
show at the gallery’s Los Angeles
space this April. There, she will
present a set of drawings, paintings,
and silkscreens that recounts the
female sexual experience in her
signature, heavily stylized aesthetic.
Jeff Groen
DEBUT
Dorothy Iannone’s show runs April 10–
May 29, 2010, at Peres Projects, L.A.
SHOW
RIC PIPINO IN A BOTTLE
KAREL FUNK
Tham & Videgård Arkitekter is out now from Arvinius Förlag.
Photography Åke E:son Lindman
SOUNDS LIKE
SATURDAYS
NYC Blackout, 2003. Photography Sergio A. Fernandez.
Courtesy +Kris Graves Projects, Brooklyn.
When the Lights Went Out is out in March 2010 from MIT Press
ENDOVANERA’S
THAM & VIDEGÅRD
Photography
Fredrik Skogkvist
In the Middle of Something is out now
Skaters have Supreme, tennis players have Tretorn, and now surfers
have Saturdays. The Soho café–slash–lifestyle store just opened last
September, but it’s already a downtown classic. Beginning with coffee
from La Colombe, the shop, opened by good friends Morgan Collett,
Colin Tunstall, and Josh Rosen—all refugees from the city’s creative
industries—has expanded over the winter months to include surfboards,
wetsuits, and a perfectly edited selection of surf-inspired wear, from
Isaora parkas and Birdwell Beach Britches board shorts to Spring Court
sneakers. “Surf culture used to have such a sharp look, and at some
point that was lost,” says Rosen, who oversaw the space’s transformation
from gallery to surf-shop. The store is just the starting point for what will
become a lifestyle brand, with the first capsule collection available in
March. “We wanted to design clothes you can wear to head to Montauk,
surf, then throw on a button-down and go out,” Rosen explains. “Very
classic, nothing too contemporary.” Summer can’t get here fast enough.
Jonathan Shia
Karel Funk’s photorealistic portraits
feature masculine subjects obscured
by an assortment of outerwear: GoreTex hooded jackets, down-filled puffer
coats, and classic windbreakers are
de rigueur. Contrasting with stark
white backgrounds, the pieces are
an exercise in creative expression
through clothing—or, in this case,
creative expression through paintings
of clothing. Funk’s palette echoes the
environmental landscape missing
from the adjacent negative space, and
the garments themselves reverberate
the theme of nature and man’s place
within it in painstaking detail that
attracts the viewer even as the
subjects turn away. The result is a
transfixing meditation on polarity,
or at the very least, an austere and
vibrant celebration of winter-wear.
Patrik Sandberg
The ever-elusive perfect haircut. Some of us have never experienced it.
Others have had it once and never been able to replicate it. It’s all going
swimmingly (glowing reviews from friends, strangers stopping you on
the street) until you take that first shower. Afterward it looks somehow…
different. Flatter? Duller? Totally freakish? Ric Pipino is no stranger
to the age-old at-home hair care lament. Following the opening of his
downtown salon last spring, he set out to develop a line of signature
products with precisely this problem in mind. Revolution in Cut consists
of shampoos, conditioners, primers, and styling products that focus on
six basic haircuts, rather than hair type or condition. “Over my years
of styling, I realized that none of the brands I used ever focused on the
haircut itself, it was always about the hair texture,” explains Pipino.
“It occurred to me that if I designed products that focused on the style
of the haircut, clients could manage their particular cut at home until
their next appointment.” The neroli-scented products recreate the salon
experience, taking into account Pipino’s personal cutting techniques and
approach to styling, and, unlike most luxury products, they won’t cost you
the equivalent of this month’s rent. That’s right: innovative, salon-caliber
haircare readily available at drugstore prices, all thanks to a straight
male hairstylist. Who would’ve thought? Grace Kapin
Ric Pipino’s Revolution in Cut is available at CVS Beauty 360 locations
nationwide. Photography Adrian Gaut
MARCELO GOMES
“Karel Funk” runs April 3–May 1,
2010, at 303 Gallery, NYC
SHOW
BOOK
His expressive, color-drenched photographs distill the essence of his native
Brazil, but for his upcoming book, photographer Marcelo Gomes is going
darker. Experimenting with longer exposures but sticking to his now-signature
journalistic style and layout, the aptly titled Taciturn Heart explores the
moodier yin to the artist’s cheerful yang. Some images of dark blue oceans and
mysterious women fill the limited-edition book with a sense of longing, while
others prove that Gomes’s optimism is never lost. Christopher Bartley
Taciturn Heart is out now from Hassla Books