Beginners/Basic Fly Tying Course
Transcription
Beginners/Basic Fly Tying Course
` Beginners/Basic Fly Tying Course Basic Tools Vise Scissors Hackle Pliers Bobbins Bodkin/Dubbing Pick Hair Stacker Dubbing Wax Head Cement Dispenser Whip Finish Tool Wing Burning Tools Tweezers Half Hitch Tools Tool Caddy Fly Tying Table Back Plate Materials “Catch-All Bag” Basic Beginners Techniques Starting Your Thread Laying a Thread Base Adjusting Bobbin Tension The Pinch Method Half Hitch Whip Finishing Laying Out Tools and Materials The Hook Eye Shank Bend Gape Barb Point A Hook in Terms of X 1X Wide 1X Fine 1X Stout 1X Short 1X Long Can be 2X, 3X, 4X, 6X and 8X and any combination of length and strength. Materials Hackles Hairs Furs Feathers Threads NOTES BASIC FLY TYING TOOLS As a general rule, quality tools will allow you to learn faster and tie better flies. As such, you should strive to obtain the best tools your budget will allow. This does not mean that tools must be a costly investment. Your local fly shop owner can be a source of quality tools and materials. As you gain experience, retail catalogs also can be an excellent source. The tools needed to begin fly tying are a vise, scissors, bobbin, bobbin threader, bodkin, hackle pliers, hair stacker and whip finisher. THE VISE: This is your single most important purchase. This tool holds the hook secure while the fly is being constructed. There are many vises with prices ranging from $35 to several hundred dollars. Some vises are more versatile than others and you need to consider the type of mount (base). A C-clamp mount is usually less expensive and often gives you more control in height while a pedestal mount may cost more but is more flexible for different types of tables or counters where you may want to tie. The way the hook is secured in the vise also is a consideration. There are rotationary and rotary vises. A rotary vise is one that allows the jaws (and fly) to be turned 360 degrees while you are constructing the fly. This feature can be used to your advantage, but is not an absolute necessity. The Thompson "A" vice is an excellent choice for a beginner and is available with either a base or clamp mount for a reasonable price, however it is not a rotary vise. It's cousin, the Thompson 360, is a full rotary vise. SCISSORS: After a vise, scissors are probably the next most important fly tying tool. Considerations when making your purchase include the quality of the blade, the size of the finger holes and the fineness of the point. Finger holes need to be large enough to facilitate easy manipulation of the scissors and the blade MUST be of high enough quality to maintain a good edge. Without a fine point, you cannot get close enough to the body of the fly to cut material. Besides the standard scissor, the spring-loaded clip style of scissor is available in fabric stores and fly shops. It can be an excellent choice for the fly tier with the advantage that replacement blades are available when the blades become dull. No matter which scissors you select, just be sure they are sharp and have fine points. BOBBIN: Thread is used in the construction of the fly and a bobbin holds a spool of thread as it is applied to the fly. This rather inexpensive item consists of a stainless steel tube that is flared at the end, and heavy spring steel material with beads on the end to hold the spool of thread. Considerations include the length of the tube, it's diameter, and whether it includes a ceramic tip. Some feel that a longer tube is an advantage because it allows more leverage when wrapping the thread and more control in placement of the thread. Either a standard or long length bobbin will function perfectly well for the beginner. Bobbins with a larger diameter are used for floss, not thread. In time thread friction may wear groves in the flared end of the tube; a ceramic tip will prevent this tendency. A ceramic tip, however is not an absolute necessity for the beginning fly tyer. BOBBIN THREADER: This is a tool used to pull the tying thread through the bobbin tube. It consists of a fine wire loop secured together at one end to a handle or knob. This tool can be purchased, or one can be made with fine guitar string or wire. A dental floss threader, available at any drug store can be used as a substitute. BODKIN: A bodkin has several uses. It is used to apply head cement to the finished fly and also to "pick" out dubbing on some patterns. It basically consists of a large needle and a handle about the size of a pencil. This is a relatively inexpensive tool that an also be made by inserting the head of a 2-inch pin into the end of a 3-inch piece of quarter inch dowel. HACKLE PLIERS: The hackle pliers are an absolute necessity when wrapping hackle around the shank of the hook. Many different styles are on the market today; however, pliers with one rubber grip and one serrated brass grip are relativity inexpensive and recommended for the beginner. HAIR STACKER: Getting the hair tips even is a basic necessity if the fly is to be properly proportioned and balanced. The hair stacker performs this function. Generally available for under$10.00, this tool consists of two tubes, one that fits inside the other. The larger of the two tubes has a bottom attached to it; the smaller is open on both ends. The hair is inserted into the top end of the smaller tube with the tips pointing downward. The tool is then turned to the vertical position, inserted into the larger tube and tapped on a solid surface. This action "shakes" the hair fibers to the bottom of the stacker, thus evening the natural ends. The tubes are then moved to a horizontal position and separated. The evened hair fibers are then removed to construct a portion of a fly. WHIP FINISHER: The whip finisher is the tool used to knot the thread at the completion of a fly so the thread can be cut without the fly coming untied. There are two primary types of whip finishers available on the market today, the Thompson or the Matarelli. Each accomplishes the same task in a different manner. Both are good products with the choice of selection up to the tier. It is strongly recommended that the beginner learn to use one of the above tools; however, a good substitute for the whip finisher is the hollow tube of a ball point pen. It will not only provide a whip finish, but can be used to tie a half hitch knot. BASIC FLY TYING MATERIALS For fly tying, potential materials are restricted only by resourcefulness, locale, and imagination. Entire books have been written on this subject and as you may know, some fly tyers spend considerable energy and time collecting materials. THE HOOK: The hook is common in all fishing flies. The sizing of that hook tends to vary from one hook manufacturer to another and also from one style of hook to another. The differences between manufacturers can be very confusing. The numbers used to identify the hook size can also be confusing. Basically hook sizes are distinguish as follows: a small number identifies a large hook and a large number identifies the small hook. In other words, a #6 hook is much, much larger than a #24 hook. This convention is the same as for electrical wire. Because many of the proportions of a fly depend on one part of the hook or another, it's important to know nomenclature for the various parts of the hook. They are the eye, the shank, the bend, the point, the barb, and the gape. The distance between the point and the shank of the hook is called the gape and the gape is the part of the hook that determines the size. Stated differently, a number eight (#8) dry-fly hook from most manufacturers has the same size hook gape as all of the other number eight hooks from that manufacturer.. The shank of the hook is a different story. A hook with a "standard" length shank has a shank that is basically a little longer than twice the distance of the gape. NOTE: The actually length of a "standard" length shank is "twice the distance of the gape PLUS the width of the hook eye. " You see,after learning the TRUE description of the shank length, it's much easier to say a standard length hook shank is "a little longer than twice the distance of the gape. " Now that you have been confused regarding the hook shank we'll go even further by describing the measurement system used to define "shank length." This system is called the "X Shank" length system. For example: a 1X short hook has a shank that is this is shorter than a standard length hook AND a 1X long hook has a shank that is longer than a standard length hook. How much shorter or longer are we talking about? READ CLOSELY NOW! A 1X short hook has a shank that is equal to a standard length shank on a hook that is one size smaller. On the other hand, a 1X long hook has a shank that is equal to a standard length shank on a hook that is one size larger. In other words, a IX long #8 hook has a #8 gape and a shank that is equal to a #6 hook. (Hooks only come in even numbered sizes, so one size smaller than 8 is size 6). There are four styles of hook eye, ball, looped, tapered and tapered-looped. These eye styles can be straight out from the shank, turned up or turned down. There are also three basic types of bend; round, limerick, and sproat. . THE THREAD: Your choice of the correct tying thread is also important. The size and type of fly you are tying tends to determine which size of thread you will use. The most commonly used sizes are 3/0, 6/0 and 8/0. The strongest and largest thread of these three is 3/0. As with hook size and wire, , , the bigger the number, the smaller the thread diameter. Typically a fly tier uses size 3/0 when tying large flies or flies requiring the spinning of animal hair. Smaller flies, especially dry flies, require either 6/0 or 8/0 thread. The color of thread may vary between patterns, however black is the most commonly used. To avoid buying unneeded thread, we recommend that you start with a spool of black 6/0 thread. Add to your thread collection as you feel it is necessary. FLY TYING TECHNIQUES There are several basic techniques that a fly tier use on almost every fly. Skill with these commonly used techniques is an important aspect of successful fly tying. THE HALF HITCH: The half hitch is one of two methods used to finish the fly. It is really nothing more than a over-hand loop that is placed over the eye of the hook and around the hook shank. When the excess thread is pulled out of the loop, it tightens around the hook shank and keeps the thread from unwrapping. Three or four of these applied to the hook is one way of tying off the fly. It is applied like this: • • • • • With the thread attached to the hook, hold the bobbin in your left hand with about four inches of thread between the hook and your bobbin. Hold the forefinger and the middle finger of your right hand apart about an inch and, with the back of your hand facing you, lay them across the thread. Rotate the fingers toward you 180 degrees forming a loop with the thread wrapped around the fingers. The thread from the bobbin crosses over the thread from the hook forming an X between your fingers. Slip this loop over the eye of the hook and gradually remove the slack from the thread. As the thread is tightened remove your finger and allow the thread to secure around the hook shank. (Note: If these instructions don't work for you, ask your local supplier for a "Half-hitch tool". It is very easy to use.) THE WHIP FINISH: The whip finish is really just an extension of the half hitch and can be done with or without a whip-finishing tool as follows. First apply a half hitch but DO NOT pull the slack out of the thread. While keeping your fingers spread with the thread around them, rotate the piece of thread that is attached directly to the hook around the hook shank in a clock-wise direction. Two or three rotations are all that is required. Now pull the slack out of the thread removing your fingers as you go just like you did for the half hitch or use your scissors tip to steer the loop into place while you pull the slack out of the thread. The illustrations should help you understand this process. Basic Fly Tying Course The Woolley Bugger Hook Thread Tail Rib Body Wing Throat Head Weight NOTES Nymph or Streamer Hook Size 6 - 14 Black 6/0 or 3/0 Black Strung Marabou with Mixed Flash/Tinsel Olive Grizzly Hackle Black Chenille None None Thread Base Lead or Substitute Basic Fly Tying Course Pheasant Tail Nymph Hook Thread Tail Rib Under Body Wing Body Head Weight Thorax NOTES Standard Nymph Hook Size 8 – 20 Brown 6/0 Pheasant Tail Copper or Bronze Wire Hare’s Ear Dubbing Pheasant Tail Pheasant Tail Wrapped Forward Thread Base Lead or Substitute Peacock Herl Basic Fly Tying Course Black Nosed Dace Hook Thread Tail Rib Body Wing Under Wing Mid Wing Over Head Weight Streamer Hook Size 6 - 14 Black 6/0 Red Marabou Round Silver Tinsel Flat Silver Tinsel White Buck-Tail Black Buck-Tail Brown Buck-Tail Thread or add-on Eyes None NOTES Basic Fly Tying Course Light Cahill Hook Thread Tail Rib Body Wing Throat Head Weight NOTES Standard Dry Fly Hook Size 8 - 20 White or Cream 6/0 White Barbs from Hackle Wing None Cream Dubbing White Hackle None Thread Base None Basic Fly Tying Course Elk Hair Caddis Hook Thread Tail Rib Body Wing Throat Head Weight NOTES Standard Dry Fly Hook 8 - 20 Brown 6/0 None Copper Wire Light Brown Dubbing Wrapped with Brown Hackle Natural or Bleached Elk Hair None Elk Hair None Requirements for the Fly Fishing merit badge: 1. Do the following: a. Explain to your counselor the most likely hazards you may encounter while participating in fly-fishing activities and what you should do to anticipate, help prevent, mitigate, and respond to these hazards. Name and explain five safety practices you should always follow while fly-fishing. b. Discuss the prevention of and treatment for health concerns that could occur while flyfishing, including cuts and scratches, puncture wounds, insect bites, hypothermia, dehydration, heat exhaustion, heatstroke, and sunburn. c. Explain how to remove a hook that has lodged in your arm. 2. Demonstrate how to match a fly rod, line and leader to achieve a balanced system. Discuss several types of fly lines, and explain how and when each would be used. Review with your counselor how to care for this equipment. 3. Demonstrate how to tie proper knots to prepare a fly rod for fishing: a. Tie a backing to a fly reel spool using the arbor knot b. Attach backing to fly line using the nail knot c. Attach a leader to fly line using the needle knot, nail knot or a loop-to-loop connection d. Add a tippet to a leader using a loop-to-loop connection or blood knot e. Tie a fly onto the terminal end of the leader using the improved clinch knot 4. Explain how and when each of the following types of flies is used: dry flies, wet flies, nymphs, streamers, bass bugs, poppers, and saltwater flies. Tell what each one imitates. Tie at least two types of the flies mentioned in this requirement. 5. Demonstrate the ability to cast a fly 30 feet consistently and accurately using both overhead and roll cast techniques. 6. Go to a suitable fishing location and make observations on what fish may be eating both beneath the water's surface. Explain the importance of matching the hatch. 7. Do the following: a. Explain the importance of practicing Leave No Trace techniques. Discuss the positive effects of Leave No Trace on fishing resources. b. Discuss the meaning and importance of catch and release. Describe how to properly release a fish safely to the water. 8. Obtain and review a copy of the regulations affecting game fishing where you live or where you plan to fish. Explain why they were adopted and what is accomplished by following them. 9. Discuss what good outdoor sportsmanlike behavior is and how it relates to anglers. Tell how the Outdoor Code of the Boy Scouts of America relates to a fishing enthusiast, including the aspects of littering, trespassing, courteous behavior, and obeying fishing regulations. 10. Catch at least one fish. If regulations and health concerns permit, clean and cook a fish you have caught. Otherwise, acquire a fish and cook it. Fly Fishing Merit Badge Workbook This workbook can help you but you still need to read the merit badge pamphlet. The work space provided for each requirement should be used by the Scout to make notes for discussing the item with his counselor, not for providing the full and complete answers. Each Scout must do each requirement. No one may add or subtract from the official requirements found in Boy Scout Requirements (Pub. 33216 – SKU 34765). The requirements were last issued or revised in 2012 • This workbook was updated in June 2012. Scout’s Name: Unit: Counselor’s Name: Counselor’s Phone No.: http://www.USScouts.Org • http://www.MeritBadge.Org Please submit errors, omissions, comments or suggestions about this workbook to: Workbooks@USScouts.Org Comments or suggestions for changes to the requirements for the merit badge should be sent to: Merit.Badge@Scouting.Org 1. Do the following: a. Explain to your counselor the most likely hazards you may encounter while participating in fly-fishing activities, and what you should do to anticipate, help prevent, mitigate, and respond to these hazards. Hazards: What you should do to anticipate, help prevent, mitigate, and respond to these hazards. Name and explain five safety practices you should always follow while fly-fishing. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. b. Discuss the prevention of and treatment health concerns that could occur while fly-fishing, including cuts, scratches, puncture wounds, insect bites, hypothermia, dehydration, heat exhaustion, heatstroke, and sunburn. Cuts: Scratches: © Copyright 2012 - U.S. Scouting Service Project, Inc. - All Rights Reserved Fly Fishing Scout's Name: Puncture wounds: Insect bites: Hypothermia: Dehydration: Heat exhaustion: Heatstroke: Sunburn: c. Explain how to remove a hook that has lodged in your arm. 2. Demonstrate how to match a fly rod, line and leader to achieve a balanced system. Discuss several types of fly lines, and explain how and when each would be used. Review with your counselor how to care for this equipment. Type 3. Use & Care Demonstrate how to tie proper knots to prepare a fly rod for fishing: a. Tie a backing to a fly reel spool using the arbor knot b. Attach backing to fly line using the nail knot c. Attach a leader to fly line using the needle knot, nail knot or loop-to-loop connection d. Add tippet to a leader using a loop-to-loop connection or blood knot e. Tie a fly onto the terminal end of the leader using the improved clinch knot Fly Fishing - Merit Badge Workbook Page. 2 of 6 Fly Fishing 4. Scout's Name: Explain how and when each of the following types of flies is used: dry flies, wet flies, nymphs, streamers, bass bugs, poppers and saltwater flies. Tell what each one imitates. Dry flies - Use: imitates: Wet flies - Use: imitates: Nymphs - Use: imitates: Streamers - Use: imitates: Bass bugs - Use: imitates: Poppers. - Use: imitates: Saltwater flies - Use: imitates: Tie at least two types of the flies mentioned in this requirement. 1. 2. 5. 6. Demonstrate the ability to cast a fly 30 feet consistently and accurately using both overhead and roll cast techniques. Go to a suitable fishing location and observe what fish may be eating both above and below the water's surface. Above: Below: Look for flying insects and some that may be on or beneath the water's surface. Explain the importance of matching the hatch. Fly Fishing - Merit Badge Workbook Page. 3 of 6 Fly Fishing 7. Scout's Name: Do the following: a. Explain the importance of practicing Leave No Trace techniques. Discuss the positive effects of Leave No Trace on fishing resources. b. Discuss the meaning and importance of catch and release. Describe how to properly release a fish safely to the water. 8. Obtain and review a copy of the regulations affecting game fishing where you live. Explain why they were adopted and what you accomplish by following them. 9. Discuss what good outdoor sportsmanlike behavior is and how it relates to anglers. Tell how the Outdoor Code of the Boy Scouts of America relates to a fishing enthusiast, including the aspects of littering, trespassing, courteous behavior, and obeying fishing regulations. How it relates to fishing: Littering: Trespassing: Courteous behavior: Obeying fishing regulations: 10. Catch at least one fish. If regulations and health concerns permit, clean and cook a fish you have caught. Otherwise, acquire a fish and cook it. Requirement resources can be found here: http://www.meritbadge.org/wiki/index.php/Fly Fishing#Requirement resources Fly Fishing - Merit Badge Workbook Page. 4 of 6 Fly Fishing Scout's Name: Wilderness Use Policy of the Boy Scouts of America All privately or publicly owned backcountry land and designated wildernesses are included in the term “wilderness areas” in this policy. The Outdoor Code of the Boy Scouts of America and the principles of Leave No Trace apply to outdoor behavior generally, but for treks into wilderness areas, minimum-impact camping methods must be used. Within the outdoor program of the Boy Scouts of America, there are many different camping-skill levels. Camping practices that are appropriate for day outings, long-term Scout camp, or short-term unit camping might not apply to wilderness areas. Wherever they go, Scouts need to adopt attitudes and patterns of behavior that respect the rights of others, including future generations, to enjoy the outdoors. • In wilderness areas, it is crucial to minimize human impact, particularly on fragile ecosystems such as mountains, lakes and streams, deserts, and seashores. Because our impact varies from one season of the year to the next, it becomes important for us to adjust to these changing conditions to avoid damaging the environment. • The Boy Scouts of America emphasizes these practices for all troops, teams, and crews planning to use wilderness areas: • Contact the landowner or land-managing agency (USDA Forest Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, state and private agencies, etc.) well before an outing to learn the regulations for that area, including group size limits, to obtain required permits and current maps, and to discuss ways Scouts can fulfill the expectations of property owners or land managers. • Obtain a tour permit (available through local council service centers), meet all of its conditions, and carry it during the trip. • Review the appropriate BSA safety literature relating to planned activities. (See Safe Swim Defense, Safety Afloat, Climb On Safely, and Trek Safely.) Also see the Guide to Safe Scouting on the BSA Web site at http://www.scouting.org/pubs/gss/toc.html for more information on current BSA policies and procedures for ensuring safe activities, as well as the Fieldbook Web site at http://www.bsafieldbook.org. • Match the ruggedness of high-adventure experiences to the skills, physical ability, and maturity of those taking part. Save rugged treks for older unit members who are more proficient and experienced in outdoor skills. • Conduct pretrip training for your group that stresses proper wilderness behavior, rules, and skills for all of the conditions that may be encountered, including lightning, missing person, wildfire, high winds, flooding, and emergency medical situations. • Participate in training in how to apply the principles of Leave No Trace, and be proficient and experienced in the leadership and skills required for treks into wilderness areas. • Adhere to the principles of Leave No Trace. The Principles of Leave No Trace Outdoor Code 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces 3. Dispose of Waste Properly (Pack It In, Pack It Out) 4. Leave What You Find 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts 6. Respect Wildlife 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors As an American, I will do my best to— Be clean in my outdoor manners. I will treat the outdoors as a heritage. I will take care of it for myself and others. I will keep my trash and garbage out of lakes, streams, fields, woods, and roadways. Be careful with fire. I will prevent wildfire. I will build my fires only when and where they are appropriate. When I have finished using a fire, I will make sure it is cold out. I will leave a clean fire ring, or remove all evidence of my fire. Be considerate in the outdoors. I will treat public and private property with respect. I will follow the principles of Leave No Trace for all outdoor activities. Be conservation-minded. I will learn about and practice good conservation of soil, waters, forests, minerals, grasslands, wildlife, and energy. I will urge others to do the same. Fly Fishing - Merit Badge Workbook Page. 5 of 6 Fly Fishing Scout's Attachment – (NOTE: It is not necessary to print this page.)Name: Important excerpts from the ‘Guide To Advancement’ , No. 33088: Effective January 1, 2012, the ‘Guide to Advancement’ (which replaced the publication ‘Advancement Committee Policies and Procedures’) is now the official Boy Scouts of America source on advancement policies and procedures. • [ Inside front cover, and 5.0.1.4 ] — Unauthorized Changes to Advancement Program No council, committee, district, unit, or individual has the authority to add to, or subtract from, advancement requireme nts. (There are limited exceptions relating only to youth members with disabilities. For details see section 10, “Advancement for Members With Special Needs”.) • [ Inside front cover, and 7.0.1.1 ] — The ‘ Gu id e t o Saf e Sco u t ing ’ Applies Policies and procedures outlined in the ‘Guide to Safe Scouting’, No. 34416, apply to all BSA activities, including those related to advancement and Eagle Scout service projects. [Note: Always reference the online version, which is updated quarterly.] • [ 7.0.3.1 ] — The Buddy System and Certifying Completion Youth members must not meet one-on-one with adults. Sessions with counselors must take place where others can view the interaction, or the Scout must have a buddy: a friend, parent, guardian, brother, sister, or other relative —or better yet, another Scout working on the same badge— along with him attending the session. When the Scout meets with the counselor, he should bring any required projects. If these cannot be transported, he should present evidence, such as photographs or adult certification. His unit leader, for example, might state that a satisfactory bridge or tower has been built for the Pioneering merit badge, or that meals were prepared for Cooking. If there are questions that requirements were met, a counselor may confirm with adults involved. Once satisfied, the counselor signs the blue card using the date upon which the Scout completed the requirements, or in the case of partials, initials the individual requirements passed. • [ 7.0.3.2 ] — Group Instruction It is acceptable—and sometimes desirable—for merit badges to be taught in group settings. This often occurs at camp and merit badge midways or similar events. Interactive group discussions can support learning. The method can also be attractive to “guest experts” assisting registered and approved counselors. Slide shows, skits, demonstrations, panels, and various other techniques can also be employed, but as any teacher can attest, not everyone will learn all the material. There must be attention to each individual’s projects and his fulfillment of all requirements. We must know that every Scout — actually and personally— completed them. If, for example, a requirement uses words like “show,” “demonstrate,” or “discuss,” then every Scout must do that. It is unacceptable to award badges on the basis of sitting in classrooms watching demonstrations, or remaining silent during discussions. Because of the importance of individual attention in the merit badge plan, group instruction should be limited to those scenarios where the benefits are compelling. • [ 7.0.3.3 ] — Partial Completions Scouts need not pass all requirements with one counselor. The Application for Merit Badge has a place to record what has been finished — a “partial.” In the center section on the reverse of the blue card, the counselor initials for each requirement passed. In the case of a partial completion, he or she does not retain the counselor’s portion of the card. A subsequent counselor may choose not to accept partial work, but this should be rare. A Scout, if he believes he is being treated unfairly, may work with his Scoutmaster to find another counselor. An example for the use of a signed partial would be to take it to camp as proof of prerequisites. Partials have no expiration except the 18th birthday. Fly Fishing - Merit Badge Workbook Page. 6 of 6