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THE
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CATALOOCHEE
Volume 16, Number 2
CATALOOCHEE RANCH CELEBRATES
76 YEARS
Summer 2010
A Change in the Dance Step
by Mary Coker ~ President and General Manager
ast spring, as the new president and general manager of
Cataloochee Ranch, I dove into the intricacies that
make this place tick and discovered the myriad of tasks
that needed to be completed to ensure we deliver our
anticipated exceptional hospitality throughout the season.
As the staff returned from their long winter vacation I
looked to them at every step to ensure an excellent
guest experience.
Mary’s daughter Alexia
Our knowledgeable and dedicated staff consists of
Trull gets an early brief- Liz in the front office, who keeps reservations straight,
ing on ranch duties.
answers a million questions a day and does things that
I don’t even know about. Patsy, head cook and kitchen manager, creates the
menus and cooks the dinners we all enjoy. She knows how to pick the finest
meats and where to find the best local fresh fruits, vegetables and fish and
always has plenty on hand should a dozen people call at the last minute to
make a reservation. Jasper, head housekeeper, makes sure we maintain an
inspection record of 100%. Red, head of maintenance, knows the complicated
water system like the back of his hand, keeps the ranch looking beautiful and
makes sure guests’ accommodations function as they should. Iris, wait staff
supervisor, knows how to train a green recruit to fit into the warm, family
atmosphere we are noted for. Judy B. maintains a top-notch string of wellbehaved trail horses and oversees an equally strong barn crew ready to guide
guests through the mountains. I couldn’t do my job without all of these people
and their staffs.
Now in our 76th year we continue our strong ranch traditions of comfortable lodging, great food and opportunities to bond anew with family and
friends. We are introducing more daytime and nighttime activities this season
as well as reviving some forgotten traditions and hope you’ll experience the
new joy and excitement in the air. You’ll still experience that same old
Cataloochee magic that comes from the ranch’s long history, integrity to the
core, its vast expanses and extraordinary vistas. Best of all is the serenity and
leisure that allows you to enjoy the exceptional natural beauty that is the heart
and soul of Cataloochee Ranch. Come enjoy the vacation of a lifetime.
L
© Jane Alexander
The Chestnut cabin is a cozy place to stay.
Big trout hide deep in the ranch pond.
© Jane Alexander
www.cataloocheeranch.com
Be sure to visit our new website designed
by Penny Redfern with help from the
Alexander family. Take a tour of
the ranch and book your next stay.
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Chestnut Saturday
by Richard A. Coker
ome join us at Cataloochee Ranch as we celebrate the
restoration of the great American chestnut tree. On
September 11, a day of new beginnings, the Garden Clubs of
Waynesville, The American Chestnut Foundation and the
Cataloochee Ranch will hold the first Chestnut Saturday.
For centuries past the American chestnut (Castanea
dentata) was the dominant tree of the Appalachian
Mountains from Maine to Mississippi. It was a fast-growing
deciduous hardwood tree that reached 150 feet in height and
10 feet in diameter. But in 1904 a deadly airborne fungus was
introduced into the United States and within 45 years nearly
four billion trees had been lost. Not only were the trees gone
but the shade they supply, the housing they provide for birds
and small mammals and the abundant mast which fed
wildlife and the pioneers’ livestock. Also gone were the
valuable nuts the pioneers gathered for sale in the big cities,
a major source of income. But the chestnut’s most valuable
asset was the lumber that literally carried you from the cradle
to the grave. Its wood is straight-grained, strong and easy to
saw and split and being rich in tannins was highly resistant to
decay. Its bark was used for house siding, its logs for houses,
barns, fences, framing, furniture and paneling.
We at Cataloochee are helping The American Chestnut
Foundation return this tree to its rightful place in the woods.
By using the backcross method, researchers are working to
breed a new tree that is blight resistant but has the dominant
characteristics of the original American chestnut.
Cataloochee’s orchard, now in its fourth growing season,
will be tested in a couple of years for resistance to the blight
and the survivors will be back-crossed again.
On Chestnut Saturday there will be crafts and vendors,
live bluegrass, dancing, tours of the chestnut orchard, hiking,
horseback riding, fishing, horse shoes, kids’ games, and Rob
Gudger and his wolves. Tickets cost $10 with children 12 and
under free.
In the evening there will be a gala steak cookout with
all the trimmings (fresh garden salad, baked potatoes, baked
sweet potatoes, corn on the cob, fresh green beans, hot dinner
rolls and a landslide of desserts). Evening entertainment
includes a live auction with the premier item being a large
(7 feet by 44 inches) dining table made of pure American
chestnut. Price is $100 per person or $160 for two, which
© The American Chestnut Foundation
© Jane Alexander
C
Several years ago I found some chestnuts that had come from a tree in
the wild that had survived the blight long enough to produce nuts. I
planted three of them and the tree above is the one that survived to
adulthood. This year it bloomed profusely, probably because it too will
die soon as a result of the deadly chestnut blight. Notice the beautiful
long fingers of the catkins, which are the male parts. Nestled in the middle is the little green bur, the female part, which becomes the womb that
will nurture the little nuts in velvet. When they are ready to be born
the bur will open to let them out. Although a chestnut tree has both
male and female parts, it does not self-pollinate. It needs a mate and
since there is one close by, we should actually have chestnuts for the
Chestnut Saturday festivities. — Judy Alexander Coker
includes a one year membership to The American Chestnut
Foundation. Dinner for Cataloochee Ranch guests is
included in the room rate. To make reservations for dinner
or to spend the weekend, please call 828.926.1401.
Consider joining The American Chestnut Foundation,
www.tacf.org. Your donation will help the great tree resume
its key role in the Appalachian hardwood ecosystem, perhaps
within our children’s lifetimes.
“Part of what makes Cataloochee such an ideal place for families
is its all-in-the-family style of management.” — Travel + Leisure
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Hiking the Walhalla Trail
by Judy Alexander Coker
The road back to the ranch is slightly uphill. There is
another nice view of Maggie and the mountains at the
switchback and, as you continue on, if you know them,
there are several chestnut trees bravely trying to survive the
deadly fungus, but they won’t. You re-enter the ranch complex above the pond.
The Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy,
the organization that holds the conservation easement on
over 300 acres of Cataloochee Ranch property conducts
organized hikes many times a year and the Walhalla Trail is
one of their favorite winter hikes.
Juju enjoys the icy water at Sliding Rock while Tommy thinks about it.
© Jane Alexander
As you rise from The Bowl, you see Water Rock Knob ahead.
Cataloochee Ranch Collection
he Walhalla Trail is a delightful hike, one with a great
deal of variety in views, vegetation and terrain. You
start behind the Ranch House at the first orange arrow on a
post going up the hill towards the Chestnut Orchard. Stop
and enjoy our part of helping to restore the mighty chestnut
to its rightful place in the forests of eastern America.
The trail continues through the gate and around the
side of The Bowl. As you proceed you can see why it is
named The Bowl and why we never get tired of the awesome
view. You are looking over Maggie Valley toward the Balsam
Range and the Campbell Creek Basin. At the other side of
The Bowl follow the arrow down a little and into one of our
favorite spots, a rhododendron tunnel. You will go through
a field and into another rhododendron tunnel before you
follow the signs to The Big Oak Tree, truly a specimen to be
admired. Now return to the road. Soon there will be a sign
on the left designating a “Hiker only Trail.” This trail is a little slick in wet weather so be careful.
The hill flattens out and you are in the Walhalla Flat.
According to Jim Campbell, the previous owner, this is
called Walhalla because it was the land nearest the railroad
in Walhalla, SC where he shipped his cattle and other stock
before the railroad reached Haywood County.
Walk on down to the dirt road and bear left. There will
be a rail fence and an arrow pointing to the right on the old
logging road. This is a lovely trek through cove hardwood
forests; you cross a stream and finally come to the Sliding
Rock. As children we carried old sacks down here and spent
most of the day climbing up and sliding down the rock,
ignoring the cold water and the rough rock.
T
“I just want to come here every day.” — S.M., age 9, June 2010
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CATALOOCHEE VALLEY
by Phyllis Artabasy
still savor the tales my great aunt Irn used to tell about
a summer’s day in the 1930s when she and her parents
made their way over the arduous road at Cove Creek Gap
and fell under the spell of Miss Judy and Mr. Tom
Alexander. Aunt Irn’s stories about
the first Cataloochee Ranch sowed
the seeds for my own serious case of
mountain fever.
My little cabin looks down on a
small section of the Cove Creek Gap
road that began as a bison and elk
trail. I imagine the heavy thump of
bison and the slow regal movement of
elk, the measured tread of Cherokee
hunters, and the creak of wagons and
clop of hooves as newly-settled farmers
headed for market, a day’s journey away
in Waynesville. But after the valley
became part of the Great Smoky
Mountains National Park, the prosperous farmers were forced to leave and the
once thriving homesteads disappeared.
Many animals once common disappeared as well, hunted out before the
valley was settled, but now some like the
elk are coming back again.
Beginning in 2001, 52 elk from
Alberta in Canada and the Land
between the Lakes in Kentucky were
transported to Cataloochee Valley;
today the elk grazing the lush meadows
there are 100 strong and have gained
almost rock-star status for visitors.
Shelly Coker and I are members
of the Elk Bugle Corps, a cadre of
mountain-loving volunteers who are
trained to educate visitors about elk
(and elk about the public) while
maintaining a respectful distance
top: Phyllis Artabasy,
between the two.
When a 600 or 700-pound bull elk with a full rack of
antlers moves through the tall grass he shows the grace and
beauty of a tall-mast ship at sea. During the fall rut, the
I
valley reverberates with their bugling as they attract and lay
claim to their harem of elk cows. The sound is hard to
describe but it’s unmistakable and once you’ve heard it you
won’t forget it.
On my first trip to the valley as a
volunteer, a huge bull suddenly
appeared from the woods and ran
alongside my car. I slowed to give him
plenty of room and he continued his
graceful canter. Just then he let out a
mighty bugle and disappeared into the
woods, leaving me feeling like a peasant who has just met her king.
The best times to see elk in the
meadows are early morning or late
afternoon since they disappear into the
cool woods during the day. In March
elk shed their antlers but begin to grow
them back in the fall, at the rate of
about half an inch a day, in preparation
for rutting season. Young elk are born
June through August.
Elk appear placid but can become
aggressive and dangerous if they feel
threatened. Tony, a fellow volunteer,
was
carrying a set of sheds (antlers used
© Phyllis Artabasy
for demonstration purposes) to our
truck when he heard something and
turned just in time to see a bull getting
up speed to attack what he thought was
competition for his harem. Tony was
close to our vehicle and lost no time in
dropping the antlers and vaulting to
safe harbor. Pacified, the bull ambled
happily back to his harem.
In Cataloochee Valley I feel a
small part of the on-going story of a
© John Havens
special place. I enjoy the spark in a
youngster’s eye when I tell stories
above: Shelly Coker
about the old people and how they
lived. For these young’uns will be the guardians of our
planet’s special places some day and we hope they too
catch mountain fever.
“The 1,000-acre Cataloochee Ranch is so close to paradise, you half expect
to enter it through pearly gates.” – Atlanta Journal Constitution
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© Jane Alexander
Just Makes You Go WOW!
by Mary Coker, Large Animal Veterinarian
friend of mine just told me a story showing that horses
do amazing things. It just makes you go … wow.
A man is barrel racing. He approaches the first barrel in
a forward position trying to get one more stride in. The horse
shortens his stride to make the turn and the man hits the
front of the saddle, feels incredible pain and falls unconscious.
Despite this he stays astride the horse which continues the
barrel pattern. From up in the stands it looks as if the rider is
drunk. Each time he starts to slip to the side the horse shifts
underneath him to correct his position. The horse finishes
the pattern and exits the ring going straight through the busy
gate area with people and horses warming up for their run. He
A
WINTER
AT THE
continues until he gets into a stall that has been set up near
the ring and then he comes to a standstill. The man tries to
dismount but cannot stand. His wife, who has watched from
the stands, gets to his side as he is hanging on the saddle horn.
He is rushed to the hospital where he learns he has a badly
broken pelvis. The doctor tells him that if he had fallen off
the horse, his broken pelvis could have punctured his bladder,
liver or some other vital organ, which could have killed him.
That horse saved that man’s life by keeping him positioned
on top of his back.
RANCH
ome celebrate Thanksgiving with us and while you’re
at it, why not book a few days to enjoy a beautiful
November at the ranch. We’ll be open Wednesday to
Sunday Thanksgiving week. We’ll also be open for weekends
all through the winter.
Book early this year for your Christmas parties. We’re
happy to welcome you middays or evenings, your choice.
And best of all, call us to discover our winter plans.
C
© Jane Alexander
© Jane Alexander
Cataloochee is beautiful in winter too.
Cataloochee Ranch
119 Ranch Drive ~ Maggie Valley, North Carolina 28751 ~ email: info@cataloocheeranch.com ~ 1.800.868.1401 or 828.926.1401
Founder and Senior Writer: Judy Alexander Coker
~
Editor: Jane Alexander
~
Graphic Designer: Susan Rhew
Visit the ranch’s new website at www.cataloocheeranch.com
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