US Army Guide to Morocco - George C. Marshall Foundation
Transcription
US Army Guide to Morocco - George C. Marshall Foundation
DA Pam 20 176 : C3 A. of HA, Army 1,1 wile.- ,[ :LIIOli and gllidflnee ,-111 '1'q . 1, ,,1 net Ali ,, :: El.111,11 1'A 1 :Y '1'111 : 1 -s [ , - 1nU u 0 OFFICE OF ARMED FORCES INFORMATION & EDUCATIO N Repartment of Defense CONTENT S General . --- Three Things to Remember 34 . 1 ~0 { I 7 Near Rabat you emit see this12th-cenurymia called the Hassan -Tower . II x f ------ -----°.. . . .. . . . . . 1 1. 2 The French The Moroccans 3 4 The Geography of Morocco 8 Morocco Has a Long History_ . . . . 12 The Government of Morocco 15 The People of Morocco Islam, the Religion of Morocco ..- . .. 20 Moslem Practices_ __--- 2 3 The Evil Eye - - ---- -------•--- 2 5 In a Moslem Home 29 Moroccan Women _ 31. Some Other Cautions _ --- 3 5 Pips on Living Conditions . 41 Morocco's Principal Cities ------- . 45 57 Recreation Addendum .. . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . .. . . 5 8 ___ fi t Common Moroccan Words and Phrases Some Common Signs and Notices 65 III II A POCKET GUIDE T O FRENCH MOROCCO GENERA L You are to serve in French Morocco as a member o f the Armed Forces of the United States . During workin g hours your official duties will be just about the sam e as those which you performed in the United States . Although some of you may have contact with Frenc h military personnel, it is likely that you will be workin g chiefly with other Americans . However, during a considerable portion of your off .. duty hours you will find yourself in an environment strange to you . You will be living among people whose language, customs, habits, and religion are not lik e yours ; so you will need guidance . This booklet has bee n prepared to give you part of that guidance and ! o :u quaint you in a general way with the area in wh r b you will serve and with the people whom you will se e eet. You may have cant u,et with F reneh military person nel . THREE THINGS TO REMEMBER Three general hints will be in order at the very start . The very first thing to remember, when you reac h Morocco and during all your stay, is that you are ther e as a guest of the French and Moroccan governments . You are there as a friend and ally, whose . country ha s been granted permission to build and . operate lase s against the threat of common danger , A'. second thing to remember is that although you g o to Morocco as a friend you will be looked upon as a, foreigner. The , people who live there will regard . you , no doubt, just as you regard a Frenchman or an Ara b who . comes to the United States for a short stay . Th y will be interested in you, but they will not want yo u to try-to change their way of doing things-and you should not try to . A third thing to remember is that because you ar e an . American, the French and Moroccans will judge al l Americans by you, your conduct, and your attitude . Yo u should therefore conduct yourself at all times in such .. a . way as to reflect credit upon yourself, upon Americans in general, and upon the United States . TIM FRENCH You will find that the average Frenchman and hi s family, if you meet them, are very much like American s -1'i'iendly, generous, and hospitable . Once they accept you as a friend they will try to help you and make yo u feel at home . They tend to be somewhat quiet an d reserved, especially in public . They do not like rough or disorderly conduct, and they consider over-familiarity as impolite, although they may not remark about it . They realize that their standard of living is somewha t different from ours, but they enjoy life thoroughly . So don't find fault, and don't brag about the "better " things you have back home . The chances are that whe n you were back home you griped a little about many o f the very things you feel like boasting about in Morocco . In addition, the French people, like ourselves, are generally sensitive about criticism from "outsiders," so b e careful about what you say and do . 'I'I-IE MOROCCAN S You will find that the Mor occan standard of livin g is far below that of the United States . On the othe r hand, you will find countless things in Morocco that will broaden your experience and outlook, provided tha t you try to understand and appreciate the Moroccan s and their country . There are many fine things in Morocco . Enjoy them, and overlook the inconveniences . Another suggestion . Try to learn French and as wav y Arabic expressions as you can . The more kite o1 'dp r yen Hull gain of both, the niece pleasant you .). tour of dul y be . (A glossary of selected Arable expression s begins on page 62 .) THE GEOGRAPHY OF MOROCC O Looking on a map of Africa, you will find Frenc h Morocco in the northwestern corner, bordering on the Atlantic Ocean . It is separated from the Mediterranea n Sea by two very much smaller strips of land-Spanis h Morocco and the international zone of Tangiers. It covers about 154,000 square miles-about the area of California-and is about as far north of the Equator a s that part of the United States which stretches fro m northern Fi . ida to the Virginia-North Carolina border . Esse GIGS n l 'grit fertile coastal piains . 4 ally ,1Toroceri hrzs ieh , In other words, although Morocco is in Africa it i s in the Mediterranean temperate zone, where the weathe r can he pretty cool as well as hot . In the mountains, i n fact, it can be cold, although no snow falls at altitude s below 3,000 feet . The rainy season occurs generally i n the very late fall and early winter, and at the end o f winter . The Rif Mountains, in the north, separate Frenc h M rocco from Spanish Morocco . The Atlas Mountain s 11 run from wnlthwest to northeast th n h the airs vnalcr a cold, cuffe d . . hril Ws 1 / till A tlas ,77 barrier across the cou-try . . . . 5 length of the country . On the inland side of these mountains the Sahara Desert begins, but on the Atlantic sid e lies afertile agricultural plain, about 110 miles at its widest point, which is also the site of most of the country's cities. Morocco's most important industry is agriculture . Its chief products are cereals, olives, grapes, citrus fruits , and almonds . Sheep-raising is important . The western and northern slopes of the Atlas Mountains, facing th e rain-bearing winds from the ocean, are thickly foreste d with oak, cedar, cork, and cone-bearing trees . and f/i desi it hot, with waf(r few ea(7 far between . . . 6 pail MOROCCO HAS A LONG HISTOR Y .The history of Morocco, which the Arabs calf " th e land of the farthest west," has been shaped largely b y its location . Look at any map which shows both north ern Africa and southern Europe, and you will see tha t whoever controlled Morocco could very nearly contro l passage through the Strait of Gibraltar and over a n important route from Europe to Africa . This fact ha s made Morocco, for centuries, a strategic area . From the first century B .G . until the early 400' s A .D ., Morocco, inhabited by an African people know n as . Berbers, was under the domination of the Roman . Empire . Then it came under the rule of the Vandals- 7 tribal folk who had moved into Spain . In 41 0 the . .Vandals were conquered by the Byzantines from th e east. . The Byzantines were in turn driven back or put , around . 700, by invading Saracens (Arabs) . But ou r the middle of the century the Berbers revolted . suacessfullyand for a short time gained control even el larg e parts of Spain . From that time until the 1000's, Moo-rocco rocco passed through a confused period during whic h several Berber dynasties ruled it ;'but'in the late 1000' 5 Arabs invaded again . In the 1200's, under their rule, Morocco reached the peak of its power. In 1.668, a grou p ii rem . the south, of "nixed Berber and Arab descent , established a ruling dynasty which is still on the throne 8 of Morocco . .The present Sultan is the eighteenth o f the dynasty . ' C ioi it i vial relations between Morocco and Europ e have existed since the sixteenth century and before . As time passed, these relationships so increased i n scope and importance that the nineteenth centur y introduced a period of striving among the English , 1'reneh, Portuguese, .and Spanish, by treaties or b y force of arms, for special privileges . France, which had . (akin over Algeria, I urene involved in continri .l ine i try is Jr( iviilg . A phosphate plant n t Moire 1<m-1g/1a is shown (left) and (right) an, ciiclless conveyor carries 'newly mined coal past sorters . . . 9 dents along the border . (In 1787, the United States , with no territorial desires, entered into a treaty o f friendship with Morocco that is still in effect, a s revised in 1836 . ) The rivalry between England and France ended in in a formal agreement known as th e 190 .when, 4 Entente Cordiale, Great Britain recognized Morocco a s a French sphere of influence, in return for France' s recognition of Egypt as a British sphere of influence . In the same year, France and Spain signed a treaty which divided Morocco into zones of French and Spanis h influence ; France acquired a protectorate over th e whole of Morocco . By the Treaty of Fez (Fes), anothe r agreement between France and Spain, a Spanish zon e of influence was created which is today commonl y known as Spanish Morocco . (While the United States recognizes the French protectorate, established by th e Treaty of Fez, it has never formally recognized th e Spanish zone . ) Pot the han(1 crc~jts )(main . Here a Moroccan woma n . wo rks on the tali °acatc design of a rag The remaining history of Morocco is comparatively uneventful . When the French armies surrendered to the Germans in World War II, Morocco came under the control of the Vichy government of France ; but in 1942, after the Allied landings in North Africa, it cam e under Allied control and, at the war's end, under Frenc h control again as before the war . 10 11 THE GOVERNMENT OF MOROCC O The Empire of Morocco (also known as the Sheriffian EMpire), consisting of French Morocco, Spanis h .Morocco, and the International Zone of Tangier, is i n . .. . principle an absolute monarchy in which the Sultan exercises supreme civil authority . He also exercise s supreme religious authority in his capacity as Commander (or Prince) of the Faithful . He resides usuall y in Rabat but occasionally in one of the other traditional .capitals-Fez, Marrakech, or Meknes . In French Moroeco, however, all effective authority is exercised b y France, the protecting power, represented by th e Resident General . The Resident General heads the French administration, with headquarters at Rabat, an d he is Minister of Foreign Affairs to the Sultan . Imperial edicts, or dahirs, binding on both Moroccans an d . French residents and issued by the Sultan, are effective only. upon signature of the Resident General . Local administration of the affairS of Arabs an d Berbers is in the hands of the pashas (chiefs) in the' . cities and towns and in the hands of the caids (religiousmagistrates) in the rural areas-all under Frenc h civil controllers. There are French courts for European s and . Moroccan courts for Moroccans, but for certai n major crimes Moroccans are subject to the jurisdiction . of FrenCh courts . Great care has been taken by th e 12 SIDI ., :OLAMMED BEN YOUS..)E E is the pees( Ott Sultan of Morocco . each authorities to preserve, as far as possible, an d particularly among the Berbers, customs to which t h e people are attached and which are governed by trod i t on or religion . For example, the civil and family status , including inheritance, of a Moslem is regulated by th e !: ()ran (No-RAN), the Moslem "Bible ." " . . THE .. PEOPLE . OF MOROCC O Morocco as a whole there are about 9,000,00 0 people . About 400,000 of these are Europeans, about 200,000 are native-born Jews, and the rest are almos t entirely Berbers and Arabs, many of whom are o f mixed blood. Some Moroccans have Negro blood derive d on French West Africans who were brought t o oci 0/I ( vie of varied racial typcs---Illeditcrraacan , fro, others . . . 1 .1 15 . .. Morocco as slaves in the old clays or who have com e from there since . Today the majority of Moroccans ar e Arab-influenced in every essential way : they speak Arabic, observe Arabic social customs, wear Arabl e dress, and follow the Arabic (Moslem) religion . Only in the remote southern mountain areas are { .here stil l p , ple who keep . the ancient Perbi oustolns and spea k the Ilerher language, but even they are Moslems i n I-plucu Arabs and CI( I( obi i i mill ~oirrtl x0011 of t ill be co g s , , Jo n z~ill/ vcd. Pal J br i ' women w'ri/ oftr'rt. doe ' t 0rrur Thi s llrrbor girl is dressed for a c(lebr•ation . 17 religion . This particular group of Berbers is extremel y independent, and only since 191.2have they recognize d the Sultan as their political ruler . Of the 400,000 Europeans in French Morocco, approximately 315,000 are French, many of whom are associated with the administration of the government . The rest are Spanish, Belgian, Swiss, and Italian immigrant s who live mainly in the towns and work in trades, pro fessions, and industry . Many of them, called "colons, " are engaged in farming . They have come to Morocc o during the past 25 years and have set the pace in more modern methods of agriculture . The Jews of Morocco have long been leaders in trade , money-lending, and metal-working . Most of them live in the cities, in Jewish communities called mellahs . The y are descendants of immigrants from Spain and the Middle East . The older Jews are usually strictly orthodox and often wear black robes and skull caps, but those of the younger generation are likely to be mor e westernized . The Arabs and Berbers live a village and tribal life , for the most part, under, the chief or patriarch of th e ti We . Several tribes may live in a single village, Th e center of tribal life is the family, and most tribes are composed of related families . Illiteracy is very high an d superstitions are strong . Religious schools offer elementary and higher education . 18 n The . . fellah ' s wooden plow is giving ways to moder . machines 1 ISLAM, THE RELIGION OF MOROCC O In order to understand the people of Morocco eve n a little, you must know something of their religion an d its origin . Their religion is called Islam, meaning "submission " to the will of God . It is also known as the Moslem religion and is often incorrectly called Mohammedanism , by ion-Moslems, after the name of its founder, , Mohammed the "highly-praised ." It is a fighting man's faith, to which its followers are usually fanatically faithful . In general, it looks upon people who are no t Moslems as "infidels" or "unbelievers . " The tradition is that Mohammed, son of Abdulla h and Aminah, was born in 571 A .D . near Mecca (Mothe r of Villages), in what is now Saudi Arabia . In those days Mecca was a center of caravan and trade route s and considered a holy place-a sanctuary and a plaeo of pilgrimage for many tribes, Long before the birt h of Mohammed, persons of unknown identity and origi n had built, in Mecca, a rough stone building called th e Kaaba, which was the principal place of worship bot h for local people and for travelers . Idols and image s associated with many races and beliefs were 'place d the building and everybody worshiped his own god ~ there according to his convictions . Today the Kaaba i s the principal shrine of Islam and the place towar d which all Moslems face when they pray . Fixed in the outer wall of the building is the black stone which i s considered sacred and is believed to have been hande d clown by the angel Gabriel to Abraham who, with hi s son Ishmael, set it up in the Kaaba . Mohammed is said to have traveled with caravans , in his youth, to other countries, where he came in con tact with many peoples and religions, especially th e Jewish . Having attained a reputation as a man of great practical wisdom and judgment, he proclaimed himsel f a prophet . He appears to have offered himself first a s a prophet of the God of Israel, preaching the religion of Abraham as opposed to the assorted pagan religion s of Mecca . The legend is that although he was suppose d to be unable either to read or write, the contents of th e Koran, sacred book of the Moslems, were revealed to him by God directly . At first he was an object of public ridicule, but a s he gained followers he came to be looked upon as a menace and a proper object of persecution . Compelle d finally to flee, he sought refuge in what is known today as Medina, the City of the Prophet of God . [Th e Arabic word for flight is Hijra (English, hegira), and the Mohammedan calendar designates dates as so man y years A .H . (after Hijra) . The year 1 A .H. and 623 A.D . are the same . ] The arrival of Mohammed at Medina marked th e 203263°--52-4 21 20 turning point of his career, which . thereafter was' on e of almost unbroken success . Gathering around him a n army of faithful believers, he . captured Mecca an d established a new religion-Islam-in the area . .. . His . doctrine was (1)-convert, (2) reconcile, or (3) destroy, . and he was apparently willing to do any one of th e three . Giving up the attempt to reconcile Jewish beliefs with his own, he turned the center of prayer fro m Jerusalem to Mecca, which now became the holy city of Islam . He also adopted the name Allah for God . He destroyed all the gods and idols in the Kaaba, bu t preserved the Kaaba itself and the black stone whic h had been revered so long by the populace . He marrie d several times, principally for political reasons, and . thus established the doctrine of polygamy . He died i n ( ;32 in. the arms of his favorite wife, Ayesha, and his . tomb-is in Medina, second holiest city of Islam . It should be easier for. you to see now why Isla m seems to include many things :found in the Old . and New Testaments of the Christian Bible . The Kora n teaches that there is only one God, and that God . ha s revealed himself to man through many prophets,' in eluding the Hebrew prophets ; that to Moses he gave the . Law, to Jesus the Gospel,' and to Mohammedi th e Word of the Koran, and that Mohammed' was the . las t and greatest of all the prophets . ("There is no Go d but Allah, and Mohammed . is His Prophet . " ) It accepts 22 . the doctrine of the Virgin birth of 'Jesus, His miracles, " and His ascension, but denies His resurrection, teach ing instead that He was taken into Heaven alive - by God and that a phantom was crucified, in His place , on the cross . The Koran describes the joys of Heave n and the tortures of Hell and, in addition, lays down detailed instructions about Moslems' every-day activities. MOSLEM PRACTICES On the ritualistic side there are five things tha t every good Moslem is supposed to do : (1) Pray . :fiv e times a day ; (2) recite the creed aloud, correctly, an d with understanding ; (3) fast in the month of Ramadan -the ninth month in the Moslem calendar, durin g which most Moslems do not eat, drink, or smoke, fro m sun-up to sun-down ; (4) pay the offical alms to th e poor, if able, and (5) make the hadj, or pilgrimage t o Mecca, if able . In actual practice not many Moroccan s .are ableto-make .the . long trip to Mecca . 1'-he fortunate few who have made it add . the title "Hadj" to thei r names . The :first practice-praying five times a day-i s performed once before dawn, again before noon, agai n before sunset, again after sunset, and again befor e midnight . It is the practice that will seem most strikin g to you, because when the Mueddin (crier) calls the "faithful" to prayer, all good Moslems kneel and pra y wherever they are-in the fields, or even on city streets 23 if they cannot go,to a mosque (church) . Each praye r is accompanied by prostrations of the . body.. and- b y recitation of part of the Koran and, when possible ; i precede d led by a visit to the latrine, followed by a washin g of the face, hands, and feet . Now here's an important caution . Don ' t stare whe y you see Moslems prayiup in public ; and above all , don ' t take pirtarev of 17 in . Keep silent, and ;just go . . aboat your Ii iiive,vs. AMeriCans and Europeans wh o have spent ratan?/ years in 11/r 0(oo tell its that it ' s no t wise even to show much irleir .rl in. Islamic religiou s practices .Don't try to ert( )' rb mosque, or even hang around the entrance to one . Soto/cc or spit somewher e else-never in front of a mosque . It 'is considered a holy place which the presence of an infidel (whic h menus YOU) will defile. In :fact, every town in Morocco is considered holy t o a greater or less degree, depending on the number an d holiness of its religious shrines . Until recently some of them were closed entirely to non-Moslems . The holies t : city of all is Moulay Idriss du Zerhoun, where . a direct . descendant of the Prophet is buried . All non-Moslems must stay out of this city from sunrise to sunset. Fez . is another very holy city . The belief in holy areas goes still further . Some hol y places are small huts. Some are places where saint s lived. or are buried . There are holy rocks, caves, springs , 24 tree ;;, Lushes . If 4/art vev a, lien covered with / o heir, .~Teri' clear of it . ' .v of Not a branch should be touched by an :"infidel," and not eve n a Moslem would dare break a twig from it . A Moroccan can use some of these holy places a s places of refuge from the government or private ene : ..mies . Outsiders who ignore this custom are likely to' . run into serious trouble . It has been found that whe n a person has sought such refuge, the hest way to reac h him is to get the help of :followers of the particular saint whose sanctuary is being used as a place of safety ... Here's another word of caution . The :feast of Ramada n . (something like Lent) often comes during the ho t summer . Moslems who have sat up late to catch .. up eating missed during the day are thirsty, shor t of sleep, and often hungry, and therefore likely to b e short of temper. So during this season it , pays out siders to be especially careful to avoid unpleasan t incidents . ru g/ iii 1 locks of Iwnrrrit HE EVIL EY E has already been pointed out that superstition s are strong in this part of the world . One of the strongest is belief in the evil eye, which goes back to ver y ancient times and is recognized by the Koran as a fact . According to Moroccan beliefs, the eye can transmi t evil designs and personal harm . In some places Moroc25 cans blame the evil eye, rather than a natural cause , for 95 out of every 100 deaths . If a man said to have the evil eye has looked at a child or an animal tha t (lies shortly afterward, he is often held liable for th e loss . Now this belief in the evil eye is not funny, like the "Double Whammy" in American cartoon strips . In many parts of Morocco, and especially among the les s educated, it is considered actually a matter of life an d (iThe look i . considered danjerous even when the is p ro g n lutin g Ira( sell students (left) s . .w,y »tae . . . .s shop, while eullchh- .. men right) bone up for exams. 20 person supposed to have it is joking. And if the look is accompanied with words of praise, the danger i s considered much greater . Not everyone is suspected of having the evil eye ; only people with unusual eyes or eyebrows . For instance , in areas where there are not many people with light colored eyes, a blue-eyed man might be thought to hav e the evil eye . Hundreds of precautions are taken to ward off th e evil eye or to nullify its effects . One reason for th e veiling of women is protection from the evil eye . T o make sure that an animal is sold "with an ungrudgin g eye," a small sum of money is deducted from the price agreed upon . This deduction is called the bab Alla h (gate of God) . And you will see drawings of the huma n hand, with Outstretched fingers, called "five in you r eye" painted on the walls of houses and stores as protection against the evil eye . You will see this sign i i many other places-for example, as decorations o n rifles, clothing, carpets, pottery, or jewelry. Sometime it takes the form of five lines or five dots, or perhap s eight rose petals with a common center, making a double-five combination . Another protection against th e evil eye is a spot with an eyebrow painted over it . You may see this tattooed on a Moroccan's arm or nose . All of this means that you must be careful . If yo u are around a Moroccan who is not familiar with Euro 27 and American .ways, don't praise the beauty o f his child .' If' you do, you may be thought to have . .pu t he evil eye on the child . If you want to say to a Moslem; "You're looking well today!" first say "el-HAM-doo . id-[AH" (Praise be to . God!) to avoid alarming . hi m about the evil eye . And remember that many Moroccans ; esp< cially those .in rural areas, believe that cameras , field „lasses, surveying instruments, and telescope s possess the evil eye . So you will have to use caution i f you are a camera bug or if you are using one of th e other instruments . Do not attempt to, or persist in , pee .n photographing a Moroccan, particularly a woman, if it is evident that the person objects . IN A MOSLEM HOM E If you have the good fortune to be a dinner gues t in a Moslem home, your host will expect enthusiasti c and detailed compliments on the beauty of the hom e and on the food served . He will consider such compliments only common courtesy. Knock before entering a Moslem home, and if a woman comes to the door, give her time to retire befor e you enter . At a meal, Moroccans always say "bis-MIL-lah" (i n the name of God) before eating, and "ham-dul-LAH," (Thank God) at the end of the meal . It will be considered gracious of you to follow suit, although it is no t necessary for foreigners to do so . Start eating only after your host has begun. Always tear your bread with your fingers-neve r cut it. And eat with your right hand-never with you r left, even if you are left-handed . (The Moslems neve r use the left hand for eating because that hand if, nee d exclusively in attending to a call of nature . ) Eat only part of the first course ; there may be-sevoral more coming . Leave food in the main bowl . Wha t the women and children . You will not be served liquor in a Moslem home , because drinking liquor is forbidden. But Moslems are 208263 0 -52-5 great tea-drinkers, and you will he served tea . Yo u should always leave after the third cup of tea has bee n finished after a meal, unless you are specifically aske d to stay for some special purpose . On the other hand , your host will probably feel that you are ungrateful i f you leave before drinking the customary three cups . Don't bring a dog into the house. a If y, .a're lucky you may Moslem or Arab family . invited to have tea wit h MOROCCAN WOME N The Koran allows each man four wives, but few Moroccans are able to support more than one . Under Moslem law the life of a woman is much different from that of western women . She is supposed not to be seen by any men except those in her family . When she leaves her home she wears a veil which cover s all of her body except her eyes . She doesn't go ou t unescorted after dark . Whenever a man who is not a member of her family comes to call, she retires to he r own rooms, even though the man is an old friend o f her husband or sons . In places where the old Berber customs are stil l carried out, women are more free to move about . Ofte n they don't wear veils . The Sultan, who is the spiritua l head of all Moroccan Moslems, has let it be know n that he favors the discarding of the veil . His daughte r goes about unveiled and some of the younger Morocca n women are following her lead . Formerly the education of Moroccan women wa s frowned upon . They usually received only training o f a strictly religious nature . Today, however, more an d more Moroccans advocate the education of women . When educated in French-Moslem schools they lear n handicrafts and study literary subjects . Moreover, women have long had the right to possess and manag e 31 LEGEN D +*+ + -• .-• ---~ I2u,IYOad ~ Major highnay a liii iousl or intricolonial boundary. Int cruntional or iuirrt uloui :d boundary indeliuite or in Jinn p : their property without supervision or interference fro m the men . Moroccan men are extremely jealous about thei r women . They seldom discuss their wives, daughters, or mothers with other men-even with Moslem friends . Strange as it may seem, you should never ask a Moroccan even about the health of his wife, mother, o r sister . To do so would violate a strong and long-established convention . It follows that a Moroccan woman will not appreciate advances of any kind from a strang e man-or if she does, her father or husband won't . Among rules you should observe strictly, with respect to Moroccan women, are these : Never stare at them ; never speak to a Moroccan woman in public ; never jostle one, in a crowd or anywhere else ; and never tr y to remove a woman's veil or to touch her in any way . Observance of these rules will save you a lot of trouble . 34 SOME OTHER CAUTION S When you meet a Moslem, he will want to shak e hands . But do it gently! Do not pump his hand, or squeeze it hard . Many Moslems, especially those in the cities, have fine hands that are easily hurt. A Moslem may sometimes kiss your hand, or raise hi s fingers to his lips after he has shaken hands . Don' t laugh at him ; it's his way of showing politeness. mber also that a man can wear skirts and earring s d still be a man . And when you see grown men walking hand in hand, ignore it . There's nothing wrong with them . Above all, don't slap him on the back and don' t " handle" him . Don 't push him in fun, try to wrestle with him, or touch his body in any way, even if yo u think you know him well . He won't like it. They don' t know how to box. One blow on the jaw might knock a Moroccan down, making an enemy of him and o f every Moslem who saw you. (But Moroccans fight wit h knives, and are very good at it . ) Don't drink liquor in the presence of Moslem, an d don't offer liquor to a Moslem . I3e will be offended . Moslems are a modest people . They never let other people see them naked . Avoid any exposure of you r body in their presence . Moslems are very democratic, and there is n o color line in Morocco . Treat people of all kinds a s equals . Don't use the French word "indigene" (native) . Moroccans consider it insulting . Avoid any (r .pre,, , io n of racial prejudice . Moroccans, as well as the French , arc basically friendly toward Americans . Their friendship is of primary importance in connection with ou r mission in Morocco . But we can quickly destroy thei r friendship if we fail to show them respect as individuals . Vy .l Moroccan shopkeeper :s love to bargain and dicker ove r a side . 36 Remember : . belief in :the dignity of every indivi d the basis of our . democratic way of life r Be friendly, courteous, and polite . A few word s . .spoken in Arabic will often break. the ice. No matte r how poorly you speak it, the Moroccans will like it . Do not call Moroccans "heathens ." They are ver y religious . In fact, they feel that theirs is the only tru e religion, that you are the unbeliever, and that therefor e your soul will not be saved . Respect their religion . You will find that a Moroccan shopkeeper is a shrew d bargainer . He likes to haggle over prices and is actually disappointed if you buy at the first price asked, whic h is usually many times what the article is worth and ' much more than he expects to receive . He will gradually lower his price and will expect you to raise your offer . Sooner or later you will arrive at a mutually agreeahl e price, which may be from a fourth to a third the valo e of the same article at home . Fact is that labor. an d materials are very cheap in Morocco, so you can purchase fine articles at low prices, if you do not appea r too anxious to buy. Judge prices by . Moroccan : standards , and .not by the prices at home . 13e kind to . .beggars . Most of them are genuine unfortunates, and giving alms to the poor is eonsiderr l on e of the . important things that a person .should do . I f You are approached by a beggar, it'is sometimes a goo d 08263°-52-6 37 idea to give him a few francs-whatever is the amoun t recommended by military authorities in your area . Pu t cautious . If you give money to one beggar lvh( v oNtcrs are hanging about, you are liable to find yoursel f surrounded by all the beggars in sight . In By all means, avoid crab i-;m of the French admin .- (Iv/vtt. Here is a hydro-tI(etrie edam on tit , bia istration of Morocco . Wh .le the French Governmen t has clone a great deal to improve conditions in Morocco , large groups of Moroccans have a strong desire fo r complete independence . It is not your job to take either side . In fact, your best bet is to stay out of all arguments, both political and religious, with Frenchmen o r Moroccans . And your wisest tour,,e ill be to con-,ide ] ieh"sttps up" i ( v - ova Th i( pocco for . .''oroco t ral 39 what Frenchmen and Moroccans say about each othe r as their business, not yours or ours . By getting into i t you are likely only to stir up trouble for yourself an d for the United States in Morocco . In short, use common sense and good judgment . They will go a long way toward making your path smooth . TIPS ON LIVING CONDITION S Among the„ first things that will catch your eye wil l be the beautiful buildings, of typical semitropical architecture . However, you will soon find that the hotels , apartments, and houses lack many of the convenience s enjoyed back home . Many of the hotels do not hav e adequate plumbing, and rooms without a bath are usua l even in some of the best, though there is a shared bat h on each floor. Nowhere do rooms have enough closets . from the American point of view ; people use ward robes and dressers . No natural or artificial gas is produced in Morocco, so heating and cooking are done wit h butane, imported gas, wood or charcoal, and occasionall y with electricity . You will be pleased with food prices . Fresh fruits , vegetables, and meats-all of fine quality-are muc h cheaper than in the United States . Canned foods ar e expensive, and meals in the better restaurants an d cafes may be expensive, but there are many smalle r eating places where fine meals are served at price s below those at home . Health . Sanitary conditions vary. In the Europea n sections of the larger towns, and in places approved b y the military command, you have to take only a few mor e precautions than at home. (Though flies are almos t everywhere in summer, very few houses are screened . ) 1t) in the rural areas, sanitation is very poor and you ould be very cautious indeed . Do not eat food sold by Moroccan vendors in the street . in small shops . /r Jrrcilx . v(yelo,blrs, mid meal :, ore plral iIiii onu l pi irrs urc low, bat breorisa of vurtiuq .sosiflily co>idi, (lull,/ Jou will have to be cautious. 4`? Be' careful about where you drink water outside a United States military installation. .Boil the wate r whenever possible . Avoid drinking from streams. an d public wells and fountains . When among Moslems it i s a good idea to drink water in the form of tea . That i s what they do, and they make sure to boil the wate r a long time . Avoid drinking either fresh milk or locally prepared soft drinks and ice cream unless approved b y United States military medical authorities. In some of the sections of a Moroccan city you ma y be .appalled both by the flies and by the filth . . Bad e home you would be cautious in handling things o r eating food from such places . Be even more cautious t o Morocco, no matter what You see Moroccans do, fo r over a period of centuries they have built up a cert .aii i amount of immunity against disease, which peoplhi ustomed .to more sanitation .do .not have . iect your clothes frequently for fleas, lice, oi/ d ticks, which like to hide in the seams of . clothing . When discovered, they should be disposed of as quickl y as .. ,possible. Red and black varieties of scorpions, whic h like to. hide in empty shoes or loose bedding, can giv e nasty stings . So shake out your shoes and bedclothe s 1 frequenly . And if you. are . bitten by an asp . or a col n ra, . have the wound given anti-venom treatment ' immediately . I,c ou guard, in summer, against too much sun . Though cases of sunstroke are rare, you should do littl e sunhathing. , either at your station or elsewhere, becaus e in a hot, dry climate it is very easy to get a bad bur n during :a relatively short . exposure . This is especially . true at the seaside . 0 and old-it Moroccan works at a cumn otg 9nachilli' but there is still need for the potter's ancien t craft . 44 MOROCCO'S PRINCIPAL CITIE S The important cities of Morocco are alone th e Atlantic coastal plain . They are important conunercial centers and there's a lot to be seen in each . A nlqn g them are Casablanca (population 000,000) ; Marrakec h (241,000) ; Fez (221,000) ; Meknes (1.00,000) ; Raba t (148,000) ; Sale (52,000) ; Safi (48,000) ; Mazaga n (38,000) ; Port Lyautey (35,000) ; Agadir (37,000), an d Mogador (32,000) . .Moron(( a land of ta)lt,aI -coinpa?( .his Casablanca apartment house t , tlh u,zi nl ,ainparts nea r Bab Doukkala, Marrakech . 45 PORT LYAUTE Y Port Lyautey, site of a United States Naval Base , is on the Atlantic, about 60 miles south of the borde r hetween French and Spanish Morocco . It is named after (he late Marshal Louis Lyautey, who played an import ant part in the development of French administratio n in Morocco and who did much to improve relation s between the French and the Moroccans . CASABLANC A Casablanca (meaning "the white house") is Morocco's chief seaport, handling 80 percent of its export s and imports, and the :fourth largest city in Africa. It is a modern city, with a skyline dotted with the top s of tall buildings . In the thirteenth century it was a pirate republic. Today it retains much of its old and "romantic" atmosphere. In 1942, during World War II , Casablanca was occupied by Allied forces and for th e rest of the war the airfield at Casablanca-Gazes was used by the United States. In 1943, Casablanca was th e site of the conference between President Roosevelt an d ['rime Minister Churchill, at which they planned th e offensives that led eventually to the unconditional sur render of Germany and Japan . are pierced by many monumental gates, the most beautiful of which is the Kasba (fortress) gate, called Bab Aguenaou . Other interesting sights are the Mosque o f the Kasba and the tombs of ancient Sherifs or nobleme n which date back to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries . The Palace of Bahia is the residence of th e present Sultan of Morocco when he lives in this souther n Lpital of his realm . It covers an extensive area, an d beyond it are the imperial parks, 2 miles long and a M ARRAKECII Marrakech, 150 miles south of Casablanca, is th e capital of southern Morocco. The walls around the city 46 Old JIoroccc~ : Ancient illooiish arich itccti re iii Fez 47 the ccutei of the city is a great square , mile ti si p . planted vith palm trees . Good roads lead from Marrakech to Mogador, Mazagan, Safi, and Casablanca . FEZ (FE:S ) 1's the northern capital of Morocco, is the religiou s and cultural cente • of Morocco . Pilgrims from all part s of Moroced come there to worship at the . Mosque of - Idriss, a descendant of Mohammed, who built th e original city . . his Mosque is considered so sacred th r the streets which lead to its entrance are forbidden t o Christians, Jews, and all four-footed animals . however , many . ancient colleges, built in the thirteenth and four- . teenth centuries to house :foreign students who came t o study at the famous schools of religion, philosophy, an d astronomy, are still standing, and some of them are . the purest examples of Spanish-Moorish art in`io rocco . The I{arueein Mosque, in Fez, is the large ., I mosque in all Morocco. Among other interesting sights in Fez are the tomb s of the Merinides (a Berber dynasty of . Sultans) and the ancient medina (native area) which is divided int o several sections, each devoted to one trade or industry . There is a tannery section where the method of tannin g hides has not changed since the Middle Ages . Anothe r attractive sight is the main entrance to Old Fez which , although a :fairly modern structure, follows traditional style and' decoration . In the . old days Fez lay astride the ancient carava n routes running east-west from Algeria to the Atlanti c and . north-south between Tangier and the Satan r 1 Desert. It was a famous city several centuries befor e Columbus discovered the New World . It was here that , the treaty which established the French protectorate over Morocco was signed, in 1912 . 49 MFKNL S Meknes, like Fez, is in the north .central part of Morocco . It became important in the 1630's when Mula i Ismail, the founder of the present-day bodyguard o f the Sultan, became dissatisfied with the traditiona l capitals of Morocco and decided to build one of his own . IIe put thousands of slaves and prisoners to work build ing miles of walls, palaces, fortresses, and mosques . H e finally became bankrupt, but much of his work remains . The walls of the city, four miles in all, are in place s 25 feet thick . They are pierced by nine gates and ar e surmounted at intervals by four-cornered towers . Th e gates are of special beauty . Ismail himself is entombe d in the principal mosque . R ABA T Rabat (pronounced ra-BAHT) is picturesquely located by the sea in northwestern Morocco, in the mids t of groves of orange trees . It is the headquarters of th e French administration of Morocco and the seat of th e principal palace of the Sultan . There are many ancien t ruins in and around the city, and in many of the build ing', ancient and modern architecture arc combined . Several modern large department stores and other shop s offer a wide variety of goods, including clothes and household goods, for sale . By contrast, in some parts o f the city, narrow, twisting streets, some only three or 50 e Ulrl ;Morocco : A tlt ,( , unparrd leer, in Marral h . tower, wall, an d 51 four feet wide and hemmed in by two- or three-story . houses, present a strange sight . One thing to see is the Sultan's palace . Since the "old" palace is not used, the harem rooms and th e mosque are open to visitors . Among other interesting sights is the Hassan 'Power, a fine minaret about a mil e from downtown Rabat . SALE Sale (pronounced sal-LAY) is just across a rive r from Rabat. In the Middle Ages it was the most impor I q uit commercial center and port on the Moroccan wes t coast. European traders came there to exchange clot h and manufactured goods for skins, wool, carpets, ivory, and honey . In the seventeenth century it became an . active pirate center while still maintaining normal com in rcial relations with France and England . In those days . the mouth of the river between the two citie s :rfi'orded easy protection to the port, but the river . ha s since filled with sand, and a bar has accumulated acros s its mouth, so that only small vessels can enter it, fro m I.l :c ocean . today. It is an interesting city to compar e :uid contrast with Rabat . SAF I Safi lies 200 miles farther south, along the Atlanti c coast . Its principal interest to sightseers lies in the fact that it is of Portuguese origin and is surrounded by 52 .11otlr raor'oeco : A brd's-r ; a Tire of poi/ ol lh~ eq y of Rabat, with the main sire( 1, now( tt for lie t iil a l Lyautey, in the foreground . 5S ramparts dominated by an old Portuguese citadel known as the Itechla . But in addition the town does a larg e business as a port for sardine fishermen, whose catc h is canned in the town . And nearby are large phosphat e deposits which are being worked extensively . In World War II, Safi was the site of one of th e American landings on 8 November 1942, and it becam e an important port for the landing of war supplie s during the North African campaign . A highway lead s to Marrakech, about 100 miles southeast . MOGAI)O R Mogador, slightly over 80 miles south of Safi, alon g the coast, is Morocco's most southern seaport and probably the best planned and cleanest of all Moroccan towns . It existed as early as 1 .351, but the present tow n was founded in 1760 . It was named after the shrine o f SidiMogdul, which is about 3 miles south of the cit y and is a landmark for seamen . Built not far above th e water line, the town is almost turned into an island , during a storm. AGADI R Agadir, a hundred miles south of 14logador, is the most southern city in Morocco . It is a fast-growing, attractive town which •obably has the best natural , but undeveloped, facilitk‘s for a fine harbor of an y 54 The wells of the city of ilfeho, s <tee pierced by <+i<t c anacic<t:t gates of special beaatg . 55 area or. Morocco's Atlantic coast, Sardine cannin g an lrrp_-_tar<v inct'.;st r MAZXG A \ l?iidgc, sixty miles down the coast from Casablanca, is another old Portuguese town, It Was th e center of their settlement in I•Ioeooco and the net -plac e tn. "ehicn they -retained a foothold . The nails, the gate s decorated with representations of the shields of lun g's of Portugal, -and the old castle, all recall the city ' Portuguese origin, A blgi'w a`: connects th_s cry , with _liar,s u,tech, 125 miles south, 56 RECREATIO N Sightseeing, as this booklet. has indicated, should o e a profitable diversion . You will find many other kind s of profitable recreation, in addition to those -provide d at . your station . The most popular type along the coast . is swimming, subject to the previously- . tentioned caution against sunburn and snnstlolie . Moreover, there i s a treacherous undertow at nearly all Moroccan beaclies . Yof. S . ~ . :lrl t.i .c . :foi'e .swim [ 1 or - 'f those bench-e ~~ gtl b s, yFishng Is also fine along the coast, especially f r'orc Safi to Agadir, and in the inland streams and Tales . In some areas a license is required . Among the fish mos t commonly found are tunny, sardines . and lobster . Trou t and pike are found in the steams of the Atlas ]Iot:ntatns and in several mountain ia :ces, but those areas are not easily reached . Golfing and tennis are :p opular, in season . In th e winter^, several ski resorts are open in the mountain s south of Fez and Marr'a_tecs, . Hunters can go after rabbits, offal, partridges . p igeons, and wild boar in th e mountains, ducks near the lakes, or g azelle in the desert oeyor.d-t.i_e n .o'I tans, south of Marta :tech_ . b7 ADDENDU M TRAFFIC You will notice that in Morocco pedestrians walk with the traffic and that jaywalking is apparently a popula r lri,time . For those who can afford to ride, bicycles , iuutoi hikes, and motorcycles are the popular means o f transportation . There is also an assorted variety of buggies and antiquated carts . In the cities there are a few traffic lights but virtually no stop signs . Nevertheless, there are traffic rules and regulations , and they must be obeyed . Violation of traffic rules by Moroccans does not give you license to violate them , too . Remember that to the people of Morocco you are a foreigner, and that any disregard of domestic laws traffic laws or others-will make a bad impression upo n both Moroccans and French, and will create ill-will . The traffic signs may be confusing at first, but after a while you will understand them . One of the most important cautions you should always bear in mind is: DRIVE CAREFULLY ; \ VOID ACCIDENTS A T ALL COST . MOROCCAN MONE Y The Moroccan money system is not as difficult to understand as it usually appears at first . Almost all of it is in Moroccan francs (a few French franc coins 58 are used) . The rate of exchange with United State s currency varies, but it is generally about 350 francs t o a dollar. (Find out, at your station, what it is .) Whe n the exchange rate is 350 francs to a dollar, 100 franc s equal 30 cents ; 500 francs equal roughly $1410, an d 1,000 francs are about $3 . There are 5-, 10-, and 20 franc metal coins, and paper money representing 50 , 100, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 francs . You will not be allowe d to spend American money in Morocco . WEIGHTS AND MEASURE S Liquid measures in Morocco are based upon the liter , which equals 2 .11 pints . Five liters equal about 1 ' gallons . Weight is measured in grams, livres, and kilograms . There are 50 grams to a livre and 1,000 grams to a kilogram . A livre is about 1 1 ./10 pounds and a kilogra m is slightly under 2% pounds. Length and distance are measured in centimeters , meters, and kilometers . There are 100 centimeters to a meter, and 1,000 meters to a kilometer . A meter (closes t to our "yard") is about 39 inches . A kilometer is abou t % of a mile . To change kilometers to miles, multipl y by .6214 . If a measurement is in centimeters, an easy way to convert it to inches is to consider 5 centimeter s as equal to 2 inches . Area is usually expressed in hectares . A hectare i s about 2 1/ acres . 59 Tempera/ it 1 ( is measured on the c( wrath' scale . (In the United States we customarily use the Fahrenheit scale .) On the centigrade scale, zero is the freezin g point of water (32° Fahrenheit) and 100° is the boilin g point, of water (212° Fahrenheit) . To convert centigrade to Fahrenheit, multiply th e centigrade reading by nine-fifths, and add 32 . To convert Fahrenheit to centigrade, subtract 32 fro m the Fahrenheit reading, then multiply by five-ninths . MONTHS OF THE YEA R The Moslem year has 12 months, but it is 11 day s shorter than our year. Thus in the course of 32½ year s every date on the Moslem calendar moves backwar d through the four seasons of our year. For example, th e Feast, of Ramadan, which is the ninth month, may h e in any season . The months of the Moslem year as established b y Mohammed are : 1-M ullarran (30 days) 7-Rajab (30 days ) 2-Saphar (29 days) 8-Shaaban (29 clays ) 3-Rabia 1 (30 days) 9-Ramadan (30 (lays ) 4-Rabia 2 (29 days) 10-Shawwal (29 days ) 5-Jomada 1 (30 days) 11-1 to'Laada (30 days ) 6-Jomada 2 (29 days) 12-Dulgeggia (29 or 30 days) The days of the Moslem week are : Promoutiation Sunday .. . . . . . . . . . li-HAD Monday lit-NAY N Tuesday it-LAA-ta . Wednesday . . - LAR-ba-'a Thursday . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. likli-MEE S Friday ZHI-ma-'a. Saturday SIBT CO ON MOROCCAN WORDS AND PHRASE S Approximate pronunciation . GI( t iIt[/s Hello Good-by How are you ? I am fine Welcome! ala-SLAHM-mah his-SLAHM-mah la BES? (No evil? ) la RIPS (No evil ) MURR-huh-bah ! sha-MEL L GIB-la h SHAR G GAR B Instruction s Ahea d At onc e Backwar d Come her e Come i n Come with m e Give it to me ! Go away! 62 ROH-heh-bi-SHWAY-ya h HIH-nah or hih-NA H IZZ-rubb ! WOO-ree-LEI! -ah _, DOR-ray or teed ah-lah-TOO L ah-DEE-nee-le e LEE-he h DOR-leh-SAY R DOR-LAY-min STEEN-ah-SCHWAY-a h STEEN-ah HEN-nah ! Number s Direction s North South Eas t Wes t Go slowly ! Her e Hurry up ! Show me Straight ahead Take me to -~ . Ther e Turn to the left Turn to the righ t Wait a minute Wait here! gud-DEM M DEI3-ba or feel-HAI N ah-LOH R ah-ZIIEE-I-IIEN-na h ED-kol ah-ZHI.E nIay-ay-ah a-TAY-neh IIAD-eh-shee ! RO H-FEE-hal-eck! One Tw o Thre e Four Fiv e Six Seve n Eigh t Nine Ten One hundre d Two hundred Five hundre d One thousand WAH-hi d ZHOOZH or TNAYN TLAHT-a h RAHB-a h I HAM-sa h STA H SIB-b a Ti-MAIIN-y a TIS-sa h ASH-rah nlee-YA H MEE-ya-TAY N IiHAM-sah-MEE-ya h ELF or ULL F 63 SOME COMMON SIGNS ANI) NOTICE S IN FRENC H Miscellaneou s I am from the Unite d State s We are America n Yes, O .K . No Excuse me How much ? Pardon me ! Please (thank you ) Thank God ! That is too much We are friends What is your name ? When ? Where ? Where is Where are we ? Which way to ah-naw MER-re-KEN-ne e hen-nah MER-re-KE N WAH or ee-YE H LAII SMAII-LEE-ya esh-HAIIL ? SMAII-nee ! BAR-ak LAH-ho-fe hum-DULL-ah or bis-MAHL-a h HAII-dab bis-ZEF F HEN-ah si-IIOBB-k o ESII-ES-mik ? EM-tah ? FEEN ? FEE N PEEN-RAII-na ? ESH-min TRIGG ATTENTIO N CABLES A HAUT E TENSIO N (ii\ ItItIH'OU R DANGE R DEFENSE DE I''UlVIFI R I)IEFENSE DE STA'.I.'IONNE R DEFENSE DE TRAVERSER LA VOI D I ,'ERRi ; E )E T'OLTR. or .DEVIA TIO N i1ALT E LAVABOS Or C;A .I3INIl'1' l)T TOILETT E PAIDS' LIMIT S PON T RALENTI R ROUTE EN REPARATIO N SENS INTERDI T SENS UNIQUE " attention" or "be carefu "high tension lines " " crossroads " "danger " " smoking prohibited " "no parking" " crossing RR tracks pi o hibited " " detour " " stop " " toilet " " maximum weight . . " bridge " "go slow " "road under repair " "do not enter " " one way " TOURNANT IANGEREUX VITESSE L,IMITE ... VOIE FERREE 66 -NOTES "dangerous turn " " speed limit,._. "railroad " 67