Production Manual

Production Manual
Production Manual
Tara Branderhorst
Fashion Management
Amsterdam Fashion Institute
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Production Manual
Preface
Dear supplier,
This is the Aaiko Production Manual.
These conditions are applicable to all consignments directed to us from our suppliers.
Unfortunately we cannot accept consignments which do not fit our delivery
conditions.
When a delivery does not live up to our conditions Aaiko is allowed to charge the
extra costs to the supplier.
If there is a problem with a delivery, please contact the responsible Aaiko logistic
manager a.s.a.p.
With kind regards,
Aaiko
Aaiko c/o Blosh BV
Lemelerbergweg 61
1101 AW AMSTERDAM
The Netherlands
Phone: 0031 20 3540 349
Fax:
0031 20 3540 351
Mail: Styling@blosh.com
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Production Manual
Table of contents
1. Introduction
1.2 Introduction of Aaiko
4
2. Development en production process
2.1 Development stage
2.2 Pre-production check
2.3 Production progress
6
3. Quality control
3.1 Inspection finished goods
3.2 AQL the Aaiko standard
3.3 AQL explanation
3.4 After Inspection
3.5 AQL Defect classification
3.6 AQL Sampling plan
3.7 AQL Sample lot
3.8 Print, heat transfer application
3.9 Minimum Material Requirement
9
4. Trading Terms
4.1 Prohibited materials
15
5. Shipping Manual
5.1 Documentation
5.2 Packing Instructions
5.3 Hangtags
5.4 Labels
5.4.1 Main Label
5.4.2 Made in Label
5.4.3 Wash care label
5.5 Delivery Policy
5.5.1 European Suppliers
5.6 Invoicing
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Production Manual
6. Measurement Guide
6.1 T-shirt
6.2 Raglan shirt
6.3 Short sleeve shirt
6.4 Sleeveless shirt
6.5 Bottoms
7. The Golden Rules
Appendix
Appendix 1 Code system
Appendix 2 Translations compositions
Appendix 3 Translations wash care instructions
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35
36
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Production Manual
1. Introduction
This report is written for all Aaiko suppliers and associates. It answers the question;
how can we make it clear for Aaiko suppliers and associates what Aaiko`s
accomplishments are and what might be expected from Aaiko in the future.
Aaiko is a Dutch brand founded in late 2005 by Mrs. Pauline Brakenhoff. Mrs.
Brakenhoff is co-owner of a fashions distributors firm called Blosh BV. Mr. Rob
Groenteman, the other owner of Blosh BV, and Mrs. Brakenhoff founded Blosh in 1998
with a label for young women. In 2000 they get a distribution licensee for two
German brands called Freeman T. Porter and Mogul. After these two successful
labels others follow. These are: the French brand American Vintage, the Canadian
Silver Jeans and the American Junk Food. At the end of 2005 their own label Aaiko is
founded.
The brand is doing very well both national as international. The output of the brand is
going very well, with distributors in Canada, Belgium, Ireland, Greece and Turkey and
agents in the United Kingdom and Norway, Aaiko is growing everyday and is a brand
to notice.
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Production Manual
1.2 Introduction of Aaiko
Aaiko is a brand for the woman of
today. The brand is founded late 2005
which makes it a fairly new brand.
Aaiko is designed from the need for a
feminine, modern and strong label and
is interested in women their dreams,
hope and needs. The designs are with
personal taste and inspired on the
latest fashion trends from Paris and
Milan, but always put them in a
different context. Aaiko is aware of the
fundamentals of body shapes and
movements. Knows the required
fabrics and
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materials and their appropriate use for
various situations.
Each collection starts with a theme, in
which
four
different
styles
are
combined as one. The collections offer
a wide variation in design, from city
sophisticated till casual clothing.
Aaiko is growing every day both
national and international.
We have confidence in the future of
Aaiko.
Aaiko is foremost committed to make
design lead products that inspire en
engage their consumers at the best
price value ratio.
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Production Manual
2. Development and production process
2.1 Development stage
When starting the new season Aaiko asks all suppliers to send Aaiko new
developments in fabrics, new print and embroidery techniques, colours etc.
After receiving the fabrics swatches, Aaiko will define the final fabrics and colours for
the sampling programme.
Production in CHINA
Sample and Proto instruction
After the collection is developed, Aaiko will send the suppliers the following
information;
• Measurement specification
• Colour and colour code
• Drawing sheet: a drawing of the specific style
• Print/ embroidery, if applicable: positions and picture
When Aaiko is sending the new collection styles we will inform you about;
• Delivery date of first proto’s
• Quantity of salesmen samples to be send
• Delivery date of the salesmen samples.
The manufacturer should check the order completely after receiving the production
order. If there are any problems the manufacturer should contact Aaiko
immediately. Comments should be given within the same week after receiving the
order.
Within the next week we must have confirmation of:
• Prices
• Quantities
• Ex factory dates.
We also have to receive within the next week the manufacturer’s production
planning. Aaiko will adjust the orders as per new agreement and send the new
adapted orders. Timely deliveries are very important for our warehouse planning.
Aaiko will have to charge manufacturer, according to the general conditions of
purchase, if the factory dates are not met.
Production in INDIA
Sample and Proto instruction
After the collection is developed, Aaiko will send the suppliers the following
information;
• Measurement specification
• Colour and colour code
• Drawing sheet: a drawing of the specific style
• Print/ embroidery, if applicable: positions and picture
When Aaiko is sending the new collection styles we will inform you about;
• Delivery date of first proto’s
• Quantity of salesmen samples to be send
• Delivery date of the salesmen samples.
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Production Manual
The manufacturer should check the order completely after receiving the production
order. If there are any problems the manufacturer should contact Aaiko
immediately. Comments should be given within the same week after receiving the
order.
Within the next week we must have confirmation of:
• Prices
• Quantities
• Ex factory dates.
We also have to receive within the next week the manufacturer’s production
planning. Aaiko will adjust the orders as per new agreement and send the new
adapted orders. Timely deliveries are very important for our warehouse planning.
Aaiko will have to charge manufacturer, according to the general conditions of
purchase, if the factory dates are not met.
Production in TURKEY
Sample and Proto instruction
After the collection is developed, Aaiko will send the suppliers the following
information;
• Measurement specification
• Colour and colour code
• Drawing sheet: a drawing of the specific style
• Print/ embroidery, if applicable: positions and picture
When Aaiko is sending the new collection styles we will inform you about;
• Delivery date of first proto’s
• Quantity of salesmen samples to be send
• Delivery date of the salesmen samples.
The manufacturer should check the order completely after receiving the production
order. If there are any problems the manufacturer should contact Aaiko
immediately. Comments should be given within the same week after receiving the
order.
Within the next week we must have confirmation of:
• Prices
• Quantities
• Ex factory dates.
We also have to receive within the next week the manufacturer’s production
planning. Aaiko will adjust the orders as per new agreement and send the new
adapted orders. Timely deliveries are very important for our warehouse planning.
Aaiko will have to charge manufacturer, according to the general conditions of
purchase, if the factory dates are not met.
2.2 Pre-production check
Before bulk production may start Aaiko requires a full size set for the general items.
For the pants Aaiko requires a jumping size set:
General:
XS
S
M
L
XL
Pants:
28
29
30
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Production Manual
This pre production size set has to be executed in bulk production fabric, with bulk
production trims and artworks. Before production of the size set may start, all the
comments on the salesmen samples should be received and clear. If the comments
on the samples are not complete or unclear, Aaiko must be contacted. The same
procedure must be followed for comments on all-over prints and embroideries, if
applicable. Strike-offs in all colour ways should be approved by Aaiko before starting
production. The embroideries should be placed on the final panel so Aaiko can also
check the position on the panel. Before sending the size set to Aaiko, the
manufacturer should measure all samples of the size set, check with the size
specification and give comments on size deviations. The measurements and
comments should be send to Aaiko along with the size set.
2.3 Production Progress
The manufacturer should inform Aaiko about the production planning and the
production progress and if there are any production problems that may cause
delays they must immediately contact Aaiko.
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Production Manual
3. Quality Control
3.1 Inspection finished goods
This inspection and acceptable quality level instruction concerns pre-shipment
inspection and inspection at final destination: Aaiko warehouse or other locations.
Inspections take place when the finessed goods of one shipment are completed. For
each shipment, of a complete or partial Purchase Order, the following must be
verified:
• General Purchase Order Conformity:
o General check of style, colors, quantity etc.
• Production Quality
o Material, workmanship, function, finishing and labeling:
Check of randomly picked articles, according Aaiko acceptable
quality level
o Measurements:
Check of 3 pieces per size and per color; units to be taken from the
sample lot.
•
Logistical quality aspects
o Check of packing list, packing materials, stickers, addressing, box
numbering, etc.; cartons to be taken from the sample lot.
3.2 AQL the Aaiko standard
Acceptable quality level: AQL
The maximum percentage of units that do not meet requirements in a lot which, for
the purpose of acceptance of the sampling, can be considered satisfactory as a
process average.
The Aaiko AQL standard of inspection finished goods according ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, BS
6001-1, and ISO 2859-1 is;
0
for critical defects
2.5
for major defects
1.0
for minor defects
This also is the common standard in international trade.
Initial inspection level is:
Normal inspection, inspection level II, single sampling plan.
Recorded inspection results per supplier may indicate a history, which required a
move to increased, or allows a move to reduced inspection level. Prior to reducing
or increasing the inspection level Aaiko will always consult the supplier. Reduced
Inspection should be the standard for all regular suppliers of Aaiko.
Choosing the sample units (for flat packed goods): pick the number of boxes by the
square root system.
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Production Manual
3.3 AQL-explanation
Normal, Reduced and Tightened Inspection:
• Normal inspection is used where there is no evidence that quality is better or
poorer than the specified quality level.
• Reduced inspection is used when a better quality is expected and requires a
smaller sample lot for inspection.
• Tightened inspection is used when a poorer quality is expected and requires
more stringent acceptance criteria.
Inspection Level:
Three general Inspection Levels are provided and four special Inspection Levels.
These seven Inspection Levels permit the user to balance the cost of inspection
against the amount of protection required. Most commonly used is Level II.
Single, double or multiple sampling plans:
• Single Sampling Method: one single inspection will give the final evaluation of
the lot. The Single Sampling Method requires a bigger sampling volume than
the other methods, but generally on an average costs less per sample unit.
• Double Sampling Method: in case of doubt, a second inspection is required;
the second inspection will give the final evaluation of the lot.
• Multiple Sampling Method: same as the Double Sampling Method, but more
than two inspections may be necessary.
3.4 After Inspection
Inspection result:
The inspection result is depending on the number of defects found in the sampling
lot. Defects are classified as critical, major, or minor, depending on the severity of the
defect. In case of any doubts concerning the classification Aaiko production
department should be consulted.
Action after rejection:
Depending on the character of the defects, the time available and the costs,
various decisions can be made. Examples are: rework article, sort out, accept with
special agreement or financial consequences, and repair at third party.
3.5 AQL- defect classification
Critical Defects
• Clear, conspicuous defects, that will immediately lead to rejection
• The defect will lead to unsafe conditions or quick discontent of the end-user
• The product severely deviates from the standard of optics, durability or fit
• Examples: damaged material, cracking heat transfer, consumer not able to
wear the garment, closure does not function, severe deviations from the
minimum material requirements (strength, durability, etc.)
Major Defects
• Severe deviations from standard and tolerance, not being critical defects
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Production Manual
•
•
•
The defect will not lead to unsafe situations
The defect reduces the ability to sell the product and may cause annoyance
with the customer
Examples: wavy zippers, colour deviations, tight buttonholes, measurement
deviations, uneven shoulder width
Minor Defects
• Small deviation from standard and tolerance
• “Beauty defects”, small defects at inconspicuous place
• Single defect not serious, but accumulation of minor defects in one piece will
lead to annoyance of the customer
• Defects that are related to the make-up of the product are generally
classified as minor defects.
Important
In case of any doubt about the classification of a certain defect, in independent
quality employee should make an objective decision, which is to be in line with the
Aaiko standards.
3.6 AQL- sampling plan
Single Sampling Plans
Inspection Level= II, normal inspection
Total
shipment Code
quantity in units
51
90
91
150
151
280
281
500
501 1200
1201 3200
3201
- 10000
10001 - 35000
35001 - 150000
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
Sample lot
in units
In defected units:
Accept Reject
13
20
1
2
32
2
3
50
3
4
80
5
6
125
7
8
200
10
11
315
14
15
500
21
22
In defected units:
Accept
Reject
1
2
2
3
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
11
14
15
21
22
Means: use first following plan
(sample lot and acceptance/ rejection values) of indicated direction
3.7 AQL- sample lot
The sample lot is to be drawn from the first choice units only. (A-grads).NAKIJKEN
GRADS
Inspections are to be executed for every order, every shipment. The units and
cartons are to be randomly taken from all colors and sizes.
Each unit and carton should have the same equal chance of being picked.
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Production Manual
Sets represent one inspection unit. For pre-packed articles, double-packs, the sample
lot refers to the total quantity of single pieces.
Colors in the sample lot:
The total size of the sample lot is depending on the shipment quantity, see table,
which may consist of several colors. Each color must be represented in the sample,
proportional to the number of pieces.
Example:
• Shipment quality is 2000 units in 3 colors
• Sample size according AQL 2.5 single sampling plan, is 125 units
3.8 Prints, heat transfer application
Applying prints and heat transfers
• The supplier of print or heat transfer provides instruction for heat fixation
o Fusing time, pressure and temperature
o Cool down time
o Material for which the application is suited
o Special handling instructions, if applicable.
3.9 Minimum Material Requirement
Minimum Material Requirement- fabrics and finished good.
Water
PROPERTIES
Perspiration
maximum
fibre
Light
content
of
dimensional
blends
stability
to
max.
weight
washing
deviation
as
in
(mass/m )
carelabel**
EN-ISO
105/E01
EN-ISO
105/E04
staining
change
staining
change
EN-ISO
105/B02
(scale 1-8)
ISO 5077/
EN-ISO
6330
EN 12127
(EN-ISO
EN-ISO
colour fastness 105 A01tensil
13934-1
to:*
A03)
e strenght
(strip)
EN-ISO
bursting
EN-ISO
rubbing
105/X12
dry
strenght
13983-1
wet
EN-ISO
EN-ISO
tear strenght
13937-1
Washing
105/C06
staining
change
abrasion
EN-ISO
EN-ISO
resistance***
12947-2
105/D01
dry cleaning
change
EN-ISO
EN-ISO
12947-4
Ironing
105/X11
staining
pilling
EN-ISO
change
resistance
12945-1
pilling box
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4
KNITTED
4
GOODS
blouses,
4
dresses,
4
shirts, etc.
WOVEN
GOODS
trousers,
skirts,
etc.
coats,
jackets,
etc.
30 daN
25 daN
1.6 daN
9 kPa/
20.000
cycl.
1.2 daN
9 kPa/
16.000
cycl.
4--5
3%
lenght
width:
and
5%
-2%
22 daN
200 kPa
4
3--4
1.0 daN
4
9 kPa/
4
12.000
9
kPa/
cycl.
12.000 cycl.
4
4
4
7000
FS
4 18.000 cycles / 4 - RS
cycles / 7000 cycles / 4
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Production Manual
EN-ISO
12945-2
FS= Flat Surface
RS=
Raised
Surface
4
125
cycles / 125 cycles /
martindale 3-4
FS 4 / RS 3-4
500
cycles / 500 cycles /
3
FS 4 / RS 3
1000
cyles / 1000 cycles /
2-3
FS 3 / RS 2-3
2000 cycles /
FS 3 / -
ISO
13936-1
SO= 4 mm
ISO 4920
water
(spray
test)
repellence
original
after 3 x
****
washing
spirality
(twisting
of
sideseams after washing)
seam slippage
12 daN
16 daN
14 daN
5
3
5%
*1 garments with contrasting colours: colourfastness to washing, perspiration and
water: staining 4-5
2 denim and fade out (often pigment treated) fabrics: special requirements apply
for:
Colourfastness to: rubbing
EN-ISO 105/X12
dry
3
wet 2
washing
EN-SIO 105/C06
3
** Stretch fabrics containing elastane: special agreements apply; Aaiko Production
Department should be consulted.
*** Corduroy/ velvet: abrasion at the backside:
9 kPa, 5000
cycles
**** Applicable for styles of fabrics with a water repellent finish
NO DIRECTLY NOTICEABLE SMELL ALLOWED, ALSO CHECK PACKAGING INSTRUCTION
CARE AND CONTENT LABELLING ACCORDING LABEL INSTRUCTION.
UNDERLABELING IS NOT PERMITTED, WASHING TEMPERATURE SHOULD BE AT LEAST 40
DEGREES
ALSO CHECK LEGEL REQUIREMENTS, IN THIS MANUAL
FOR ANY ACCEPETED DEVIATION FROM THE AAIKO STANDARD, SUPPLIER SHOULD
HAVE A WRITTEN APPROVAL FROM AAIKO PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT.
Zippers all have to be original YKK. No other brands are allowed.
If any production/buying problem with this brand, Aaiko Production Department
should be contacted. And if exceptions have to be made, the manufacturer must
have a written approval from Aaiko Production Department.
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Production Manual
4. Trading Terms
Aaiko believes everyone in the world has the right to enjoy their life in a free and safe
environment. With this is mind I am setting up Aaiko Supplier Trading Terms. These
terms reflect my values and support how we do business. Enclosed are Aaiko’s terms
that I will ask all of Aaiko’s suppliers to respect and up-hold when doing business.
Aaiko requires professional, ethnical and sound business practice from all suppliers, in
line with local laws. Aaiko prefers only doing business with suppliers and subcontracts
that uphold these laws.
The Aaiko supplier trading terms cover the following as a guide line;
• No forced labour; the use of forced labour is against international law and is
unacceptable by any standards.
• No discrimination of workers; Aaiko believes everyone is equal and will not
tolerate discrimination at the workplace of any supplier or subcontractors.
• No child labour; suppliers shall not engage in or support any form of child
labour as set out by laws covering the said country of production and
international conventions.
• Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining; suppliers shall
recognize and respect the right of the employees to freedom of association
and collective bargaining.
• A wage that covers the basic needs of a family, based on local standards;
suppliers shall pay the minimum wages as set out by local laws or correct
industry wage in proportion to work carried out for the supplier.
• No excessive overtime; suppliers will ensure working hours do not exceed the
maximum required by local law and international conventions.
• Safe and healthy work environment; suppliers will ensure the working
environment is up to minimum health and safety standards as set out by local
laws and international conventions.
• Environmentally conscious; suppliers and their partners will comply with
environmental rules, regulations and standards applicable to their operation
and will observe local laws set out to product the local environment.
4.1 Prohibited Materials
This chapter is written to remind all merchandise ordered by Aaiko must be
produced in accordance with the legislation and regulations of the European Union,
which institute has put a ban on certain chemicals and dye stuffs.
Here Aaiko has summarized the relating dye stuffs and chemicals with their maximum
set limits for each individual component of the garment:
Certain AZO dyes
Chromium VI
Cadmium
Pentachlorophenol
Mercury
Formaldehyde
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: maximum 30 mg/kg;
: maximum 3 mg/kg;
: maximum 100 mg/kg per material
: maximum 5 mg/kg
: totally forbidden, therefore 0 mg/kg;
: maximum 20 mg/kg for textiles with direct skin contact
and maximum 75 mg/kg for textiles without direct skin
contact;
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Production Manual
Formaldehyde
: for the Netherlands we have committed ourselves to
deliver all merchandise without this chemical, i.e. less than
1 mg/kg.
Below the requirements for environmental, health and safety aspects
CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES
FORBIDDEN DYESTUFFS
AZO DYESTUFFS
from which arylamines can be spilt of under reductive
conditions
Limit 30 mn/kg
Test method 35 LMBG (German Law regarding food and onsumer
goods)
Textiles in general: Method B 82.02-2, January 1998 (=EN
14362-1)
Leather: Method B 82.02-3, January 1998
(=ISO/TS 17234)
Textiles containing polyester: Method B 82.02-4, January 1998. (=EN
14362-2)
Index
CAS
EG
Substance
number
Number
number
612-072-001
Biphenyl-4-ylamin
6
92-67-1
202-177-1
4-aminobiphenyl
xenylamine
612-042-002
Benzidine
2
92-87-5
202-199-1
3
4-chloro-o-toluidine
95-69-2
202-441-6
612-022-004
2-naphtylamine
3
91-59-8
202-080-4
611-006-005
o-aminoazotoluene
3
97-56-3
202-591-2
4-amino-2`,3dimethylazobenzene
4-o-tolylazo-otoluidine
6
5-nitro-o-toluidine
99-55-8
202-765-8
612-137-007
4-chloroaniline
9
106-47-8
203-401-0
4-methoxy-m8
phenylenediamine
615-05-4
210-406-1
612-051-009
4,4`-methylenedianiline
1
101-77-9
202-109-0
4,4`-
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Production Manual
diaminodiphenylmethane
10
3,3`- dichlorobenzidine
3,3`-dichlorobiphenyl-4
4`-ylenediamine
11
3,3-dimethoxybenzidine
12
3,3-dimethylbenzidine
4,4`-bi-o-toluidine
13
14
4,4`-methylenedi-o-toluidine
6-methoxy-m-toluidine
p-cresidine
15
4,4`-methylene-bis(2-chloro-aniline)
2,2`-dichloro-4,4`methylenedianiline
4,4`-oxydianiline
4,4`-thiodianiline
16
17
18
o-toluidine
2-aminotoluene
19
20
4-methyl-mphenylenediamine
2,4,5-trimethylaniline
21
22
23
0-anisidine (2-methoxyanilin)
2,4-xylidine
2,6-xylidine
24
4-amino azobenzene
612-068-004
612-036-00X
612-041-007
612-085-007
612-078-009
612-091-00X
612-099-003
612-035-004
611-008-004
91-94-1
202-109-0
119-90-4
204-355-4
119-93-7
204-358-0
838-88-0
120-71-8
212-658-8
204-419-1
101-14-4
202-918-9
101-80-4
139-65-1
202-977-0
205-370-9
95-53-4
202-429-0
95-80-7
137-17-7
202-453-1
205-282-0
90-04-0
95-68-1
87-62-7
201-963-1
60-09-3
200-453-6
Aaiko trust that you all will strictly adhere to the above as we hold you fully
responsible for all damages and/or financial consequences.
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5. Shipping Manual for Aaiko
Consignee:
Blosh BV
Lemelerbergweg 61
1101 AW Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Tel.: +31 20 3540 349
Fax: +31 20 3540 351
Notify Party:
Mairon Logistics B.V.
Snipweg 15
1118 DN Airport Schiphol
The Netherlands
Tel.: +31 20 6541 150
Fax: +31 20 5641 155
Nominated Air Forwarder/ Ocean Consolidator:
• All shipments must be handled by our nominated air forwarder/ ocean
consolidator only. Including those freight prepaid shipments at vendor’s
account.
• Aaiko has nominated a forwarder for each origin. Please ensure your cargo
will be booked through the nominated Forwarder. If unsure, please verify with
our Logistics Department.
• Please also make sure to notify our freight forwarder of Aaiko style names
when booking a shipment.
Our nominated freight forwarder: Please see our Freight Forwarders list separately
attached.
Shipping Terms: FOB Port of loading and/or Airport of Country of Export
Final Destination: Amsterdam, the Netherlands
Carton Markings:
Main
Style Name
Colour Name
Quantity
Made in (Country)
Side
Gross Weight
Net Weight
Measurements
Carton No. ..of..
5.1 Documentation
The shipper’s commercial invoice must indicate description of goods, composition,
knit of woven, gender, style name, season, quantity shipped, FOB value, ex-factory
date, country of origin of goods, shipping marks, with company letterhead and
authorized signature.
Detailed Packing List
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With correct shipping mark, description, quantity, breakdown per carton, size
assortment, colour assortment, number of cartons, gross weight, net weight, box
measurements, with company chop and authorized signature.
Please note that you may pack in one carton more than one style and colour. We
do not require you to pack 1 style per carton. All cartons must be full packed with
using standard carton sizes.
By not following these instructions, might result in freight chargeback.
Forwarder Cargo Receipt/ Bill of Lading or Airway Bill:
Issued by our nominated freight forwarder/ consolidator with correct shipping marks,
description and style name, carton dimensions, consignee, port of loading, port of
discharge.
Document Distribution
Ocean Shipments; All vendors are to send via courier (prepaid) one set of original
shipping documents, including 1/3 original bill of loading whether consigned to Blosh
BV, within seven days of sailing date.
Air Shipment; All vendors are to submit all original shipping documents to our
nominated freight forwarder along with the cargo to be aired.
Export Commercial Invoice and detailed packing list are to be scanned or faxed to
Blosh BV, the same day as export.
Over/ Short Shipment
The tolerance between the ordered and the shipped quantity is 5% per size and
colour. Any pieces that are intended to be shipped over 5% can be bought with
discount. The discount ratio should be checked with Blosh BV prior to the shipment. If
the shipment quantity is short more than 5% the customer has the right to ask to reproduce those quantities and to be shipped by air at the supplier’s expense.
5.2 Packing Instructions
The Box:
• The supplier must always follow the pre-packing instructions of the logistics
department, if this is for any reason not possible the supplier has t inform the
logistics department and require new instructions.
• A maximum gross weight of 15 kilos is allowed.
• The maximum size of the box is 60x40x35 cm (LxWxH), minor the variations are
acceptable.
• No empty spaces may occur in the box, no filling material may be used either.
• No wire may be wound around the box; the box must be shut with tape.
• Tape must be wrapped at all carton seems. Also the side seems.
• If bands are used around the box, the fastening must be firm and sealed (hot
seal of metal clip).
• Product may not be bound together by means string, tape, ribbons etc.
• The short side of the boxes must be clearly marked with the required shipping
marks.
• The letter type of marking is as big as possible.
• Besides the shipping marks as per example, each carton should also have; the
measurements of the carton, the weight as well as the addressee.
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Production Manual
•
•
•
•
•
The remainder must be packed in a separate box(es) with the highest box
number(s).
The remainder boxes must be marked with a big coloured sticker or carry the
text “odd box”, both on the short sides of the box.
The use of linen on the boxes is prohibited.
The carton used must be equal the following quality:
External liner
: 125 Kraft liners
3 mm corrugated
: 116 semi-chemicals
Intermediated liner
: 107 gray paper
Internal liner
: 119 test liner
Material must be recycled. The recycled triangle must be printed on one side
of the box.
Pallets:
• If a shipment is delivered on pallets always use block pallets.
• If colour stickers are used for different assortments, the boxes with the same
colours have to be stacked together.
• With delivery on pallets the odd-boxes must be stacked on top of the pallet,
or packed on a separate pallet.
• A pallet may consist a maximum of one order, only.
Poly bag:
• Only pack each style individually if instructed accordingly, or if the product
requires it.
• If the products are not packed in plastic separately or in a bundle, a large
plastic bag (master bag) must be used in the box.
• Required materials, such as pins and clips, must be rust-free
• Articles in odd-boxes must always be packed separately in a poly bag.
• All poly bags in the odd-boxes (only in the odd-boxes) must consist an extra
barcode sticker on the right bottom of the poly bag.
Packing list:
• The packing list must always be supplied with the shipping note.
• A copy of the packing list must be emailed to Blosh BV at least one working
day prior to the agreed delivery date.
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Production Manual
5.3 Hangtags
Placing of the hang tags and the price stickers
Unless otherwise agreed, hangtags should be developed by the supplier. The
hangtags have to be attached to the label in the article.
All pieces should have hangtags with a white sticker on the backside mentioning the
following information:
• Style number
• Style name
• Color code and name
• Quality
• Size indication
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Production Manual
Payment conditions are on Proforma basis. Prices of the accessories are always
quoted including shipping costs.
5.4 Labels
Aaiko uses three kinds of labels:
• Main label;
• Made in label: country of origin and CA number;
• Wash care label.
5.4.1 Main label
5.4.1 Made in label
The quality of this label should be 100% cotton. The label must contain the following
information:
• MADE IN, country of origin.
• CA#
Text must be printed in black lettering on an off white background. The text must be
in Dutch, English and French.
Position for tops, t-shirts, knits and shirts; inserted in the interior centre back neck
seam. Under the main label.
For bottoms; inserted in the interior waistband on the left front side at 15 cm from left
side seam.
5.4.3 Wash care label
The quantity of this label should be 100% cotton. The label must contain the following
information in Dutch, English and French:
• Composition of the fabric
• Size indication
• Complete style number
• Style name
• Aaiko logo
• Washing symbols
• Care instructions
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Production Manual
• Country of origin
• CA number.
The supplier will have to indicate the ash and care instructions per style based on
different kinds of fabric, washing standards and graphic qualities.
Position for tops; inside the left side seam, 8 cm from bottom
Position for bottoms; inside the waistband on the left front, 11 cm from left side seam.
97%COTTON 3%ELASTIC
WASH WITH SIMILAR COLOUR
5.5 Delivery policy
All shipment dates agreed when placing orders are “on board dates” and NOT exfactory dates. In case of late delivery, Aaiko reserves the right to obligate the
supplier to send the goods by air on the suppliers account ask for a discount on the
delayed goods or even cancel the order if the delivery is unacceptable late.
5.5.1 European suppliers
Aaiko has appointed Mairon or their agent as our nominated forwarder to handle
the majority for our incoming freight from our European suppliers. Al suppliers are
advised to contact the appointed forwarder or its agent for procedural instructions.
Where applicable, Mairon will handle not only the freight but also the original
documents. All suppliers should deliver all the original documents required for
customs clearance together with the goods to Mairon.
Suppliers will always receive the Freight Forwarders Certificate of Receipt (FCR)
document from the appointed forwarder.
When the buying terms are Cash Against Documents (CAD for Turkey) you will
receive a FCR document the appointed forwarder.
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Production Manual
Suppliers should prepare the following documents (where applicable):
• Commercial invoice addressed to Aaiko, showing
o Code per style;
o Full description of the goods;
ƒ PO Ladies
ƒ Woven/ knitted
ƒ Composition
o Number
o Style number
o Style name
• Certificate of origin
• Packing list
• EUR document
• Export licence
• ATR document (excl Turkey)
All documents must indicate Aaiko’s PO number, style number and style name.
Unfortunately, we cannot accept consignments that are different from our delivery
conditions. May we find out, after accepting the consignment, that the delivery does
not live up to our conditions, we are allowed to charge the extra costs made to the
account of the
supplier. You can think of the wrong content in one of the boxes, the use of wrong
boxes, the missing of price stickers etc.
May you have a problem with the deliveries, questions or remarks, please contact
the responsible purchaser.
5.6 Invoicing
All invoicing must be send to Aaiko and must be the original invoices.
Invoices must be addressed to:
Blosh BV.
Aaiko Finance Department
Lemelerbergweg 61
1101 AW Amsterdam
The Netherlands
The original invoices should be in either Euros or US$ and should state whether the
goods are ‘bulk shipments’ or ‘samples’.
The cost price should include any costs for labels (except where agreed in
advance).
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Production Manual
6. Measurement Guide
The objective of this guide is to clarify measuring process so that all Aaiko associates
and suppliers responsible for measuring garments use the same measurement
criteria.
Measure instructions
All measurements are to be taken with garment laid on flat surface, in a natural
position, free of tension, with wrinkles smoothed out and enough time relaxed after
fixation unless otherwise specified.
All measurements are to be taken with measurement tape. Tape should be checked
periodically for accuracy against a steel ruler.
All measurements should be taken on the front of the garment with all buttons
and/or zippers fully closed, unless otherwise specified.
All measurements should be taken from wearer’s left side unless otherwise specified.
All elastic/stretch garments are to be measured relaxed (elastic not extended) on a
flat surface.
For all buttoned garments, buttons should be at the end of the buttonhole for any
circumference measurement.
Button spacing should be measured from centre of button to centre of button.
The tolerance for every measurement is given in “cm”, so when a spec is instructed in
“cm” the given tolerance in “cm” should be used.
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Production Manual
6.1 T-shirt
Measure instructions for a long sleeve T-shirt with waistband and cuffs.
A
B
B1
C
C1
D
D1
E
F
G1
H
H1
I
J
J1
L
L1
M
M1
N
LONG SLEEVES T SHIRT
Chest
Hight Shoulder to Shoulder
Shoulder
Crossfront
Crossback
Waist
Lower Waist
Top Bottom
Armhole Straight
Sleeve length (from C.B.)
Forearm
Elbow
Centre Back Length
Neck Width
Front Neckdrop
Waistband depth
Waistband width
Cuff Depth
Cuff Width
Piping Width
Tara Branderhorst
XS
40
5
30
31
33
32
33
42
20
80
14
12
63
20
18
2
42
4
10
2
S
42
6
32
33
35
34
34
44
21
81
15
13
65
21
19
2
44
4
11
2
M
44
7
34
35
37
3
36
46
22
82
16
14
67
22
20
2
46
4
12
2
L
46
8
36
37
39
35
38
48
23
83
17
15
69
23
21
2
48
4
13
2
XL
48
9
38
39
41
36
40
50
24
84
18
16
71
24
22
2
50
4
14
2
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Production Manual
6.2 Raglan shirt
Measure instructions for long sleeve raglan T-shirt
A
B1
B2
D
E
F
F1
G1
H
H1
H2
H3
I
J
J1
L
L1
M
M1
N
RAGLAN LONG SLEEVES
Chest
High Shoulder to Shoulderr
Shoulder
Waist
Top Bottom
Armhole Straight
Armhole to Neckopening
Sleeve length (from C.B.)
Forearm
Elbow
Underarm
Armopening
Centre Back Length
Neck Width
Front Neckdrop
Waistband Depth
Waistband Width
Cuff Depth
Cuff Width
Piping Width
Tara Branderhorst
XS
40
5
30
31
33
32
33
42
20
80
14
12
63
20
18
2
42
4
10
2
S
42
6
32
33
35
34
34
44
21
81
15
13
65
21
19
2
44
4
11
2
M
44
7
34
35
37
3
36
46
22
82
16
14
67
22
20
2
46
4
12
2
L
46
8
36
37
39
35
38
48
23
83
17
15
69
23
21
2
48
4
13
2
XL
48
9
38
39
41
36
40
50
24
84
18
16
71
24
22
2
50
4
14
2
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Production Manual
6.3 Short sleeve shirt
Measure instructions for short sleeve T-shirt
A
B1
B2
C
C1
D
D1
E
F
F1
G1
H3
I
J
J1
N
SHORTSLEEVES T SHIRT
Chest
Hight Shoulder to Shoulder
Shoulder
Crossfront
Crossback
Waist
Lower Waist
Top Bottom
Armhole Straight
Armhole to Neckopening
Sleeve length (from C.B.)
Armopening
Centre Back Length
Neck Width
Front Neckdrop
Piping Width
Tara Branderhorst
XS
40
5
30
31
33
32
33
42
20
80
14
12
63
20
18
2
S
42
6
32
33
35
34
34
44
21
81
15
13
65
21
19
2
M
44
7
34
35
37
3
36
46
22
82
16
14
67
22
20
2
L
46
8
36
37
39
35
38
48
23
83
17
15
69
23
21
2
XL
48
9
38
39
41
36
40
50
24
84
18
16
71
24
22
2
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Production Manual
6.4 Sleeveless shirt
Measure instructions for sleeveless shirt
A
B1
B2
C
C1
D
D1
E
F
I
J
J1
N
SLEEVELESS T SHIRT
Chest
Hight Shoulder to Shoulder
Shoulder
Crossfront
Crossback
Waist
Lower Waist
Top Bottom
Armhole Straight
Centre Back Length
Neck Width
Front Neckdrop
Piping Width
Tara Branderhorst
XS
40
5
30
31
33
32
33
42
20
80
14
12
2
S
42
6
32
33
35
34
34
44
21
81
15
13
2
M
44
7
34
35
37
3
36
46
22
82
16
14
2
L
46
8
36
37
39
35
38
48
23
83
17
15
2
XL
48
9
38
39
41
36
40
50
24
84
18
16
2
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Production Manual
6.5 Bottoms
Inseam
Measure from crotch (front/back rise crosses side seam) to
bottom at inseam.
Knee Circumference
Position 14” down from crotch, measure from (fold line near)
inseam to (fold line near) side seam and double the
garment.
Bottom Circumference
Fold the garment at the
middle of leg and measure
form front fold line to back
fold line and double the
measurement.
Hip Circumference
For pants position to
measure from 3 ½ “ up
from crotch and for
skirts position is 8” down
from top waistband.
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Production Manual
From there, measure from side seam and double the measurement.
Front rise (including waistband)
Measure up from crotch to top edge of waistband.
Back rise (including waistband)
Measure up from crotch to top edge waistband.
Fly
length
(Zip
length)(excluding
(grown
on)waistband)
Measure from waistband seam to bottom of fly
topstitching.
Hem depth
Measure from stitching to bottom edge of leg.
Front pocket length near side seam
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Production Manual
Front pocket top width
Thigh Circumference
First make sure garment is totally flat, than measure from
fold line at crotch to (fold line near) side seam and double
the garment.
Waist Circumference
Fold the garment with button positioned at end of
buttonhole and measure from front fold line to back fold
line and double the measurement.
Waistband depth
Measure from top
waistband.
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waistband
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Production Manual
Yoke depth at side seam
Measure from waistband seam to back yoke seam
near side seam.
Yoke dept at centre back
Belt loop length
Measure from top of belt
loop to bottom of belt
loop.
Belt loop width
Measure from side to
side of belt loop.
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Production Manual
7. The Golden Rules
1. All suppliers send Aaiko new fabrics and print techniques. Aaiko chooses
certain fabrics to use in the collection and will send designs and size
specifications (specs) for the new collection to the suppliers.
2. All suppliers will send proto samples to the Aaiko headquarter along with the
designs and size specifications sent by Aaiko’s styling team. This may be in an
available fabric.
3. After approval and required adjustments on the styles all supplier must sent a
salesmen sample. Salesmen samples should be in size Small and may not differ
from the size measurements.
4. At the end of the sales season Aaiko’s buying department will give the final
orders to the suppliers. All suppliers must follow the instructions mentioned on
the order, if anything is unclear they must contact the Aaiko buying
department. The styling team sends out the final revised size specs: suppliers
must produce according to these measurements.
5. All suppliers will send out approval samples before they start the production.
The final measurements will be done on this sample. Approval samples must
be in the original fabric and colour with all labels and hangtags attached.
6. Suppliers will send a production sample form the first article in every
production. Quality and fabric will be checked with the production order from
Aaiko.
7. All supplier will send out shipment samples by AIR as production is finished. An
at random chosen piece from the produced goods will be send ahead by air.
8. Along with these shipment samples the supplier sends all official shipment
documents.
N.B. Production will be checked and fitted by the Aaiko styling team. The
production process will be adjusted according to the remarks by Aaiko. When
needed adjustments will be made in the production process. If the supplier does
not work according to Aaiko’s instructions Aaiko is not obliged to pay for these
goods.
The golden rules in shorthand:
• Suppliers send fabrics (swatches) and prints to Aaiko.
• The styling department of Aaiko answers with the styles upon which the
supplier produces a proto sample. The proto sample is send to Aaiko.
• Aaiko responds to the proto sample upon which the supplier produces the
salesmen sample.
• The salesmen sample is send to Aaiko.
• Next step: approval sample (with applied commons and measurements).
• Followed by the production sample (with correct the requested quality
and accessories).
• Shipment sample: an at random chosen piece will be send by air.
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Production Manual
Appendix
Appendix I
Translations Compositions
SHORT
REFERENCE
ENGLISH
FRENCH
GERMAN
KURZZEICHEN
ENGLISCH
FRANZÖSISCH
DEUTSCH
NIEDERLÄNDISCH
SIGNE BREF
KORTE
REFERENTIE
ANGLAIS
FRANCAIS
ALLEMAND
NÉERLANDAIS
ENGELS
FRANS
DUITS
NEDERLANDS
WO
WOOL
LAINE
WOLLE
WOL
WP
ALPACA
ALPAGA
ALPAKA
ALPACA
WL
LAMA
LAMA
LAMA
LAMA
WK
CAMEL
CHAMEAU
KAMEL
KAMEEL
WS
CASHMERE
CACHEMIRE
KASCHMIR
KASJMIER
WM
MOHAIR
MOHAIR
MOHAIR
MOHAIR
WA
ANGORA
ANGORA
ANGORA
ANGORA
WG
VICUNA
VIGOGNE
VICUNA
VIGOGNE
WY
YAK
YACK
YAK
JAK
WU
GUANACO
GUANACO
GUANAKO
GUANACO
HS
HORSEHAIR
CRIN DE CHEVAL
ROSSHAAR
PAARDENHAAR
SE
SILK
SOIE
SEIDE
ZIJDE
CO
COTTON
COTON
BAUMWOLLE
KATOEN
KP
KAPOK
CAPOC
KAPOK
KAPOK
LI
FLAX/ LINEN
LIN
FLACHS/ LEINEN
VLAS/ LINNEN
HA
TRUE HEMP
CHANVRE
HANF
HENNEP
JUTE
DUTCH
JU
JUTE
JUTE
JUTE
SI
SISAL
SISAL
SISAL
SISAL
CA
ACETATE
ACÉTATE
ACETAT
ACETAAT
CUP
CUPRO
CUPRO
CUPRO
CUPRO
CMD
MODAL
MODAL
MODAL
MODAL
PROTEIN
PROTÉINIQUE
REGENERIERTE
PROTEINFASER
PROTEÏNE
CTA
TRIACETATE
TRIACÉTATE
TRIACETAT
TRIACETAAT
CV
VISCOSE
VISCOSE
VISCOSE
VISCOSE
PAN
ACRYLIC
ACRYLIQUE
POLYACRYL
ACRYL
MAC
MODACRYLIC
MODACRYLIQUE
MODACRYL
MODACRYL
PA
POLYAMIDE/ NYLON
POLYAMIDE/ NYLON
POLYAMID/ NYLON
POLYAMIDE/ NYLON
PES
POLYESTER
POLYESTER
POLYESTER
POLYESTER
PE
POLYETHYLENE
POLYÉTHYLÉNE
POLYETHYLEN
POLYETHEEN
PP
POLYPROPYLENE
POLYPROPYLÉNE
POLYPROYLEN
POLYPROPEEN
MTF
METAL FIBRE
MÉTAL
METALL
METAAL
MIXED FIBRES
RÉSIDUS TEXTILE
DEVERSE FASERARTEN
ONBEPAALDE
SAMENSTELLING
FLEECE WOOL
LAINE VIEGRE
SCHURWOLLE
SCHEERWOL
COTTON LINEN
MÉTIS
HALBLEINEN
HALFLINNEN
WV
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Production Manual
Appendix 2
Translations wash care instructions
ENGLISH
FRENCH
AIR DRY ONLY
UNIQUEMENT SECHER A NU AN DER LUFT TROCKNEN ENKEL AAN
L'AIR
LASSEN
DROGEN
GERMAN
ATTENTION
ATTENTION
ACHTUNG
OPGEPAST
CAUTION
ATTENTION
VORSICHT
VOORZICHTIG
COLD RINSE
RINSER A FROID
KALT AUSWASCHEN
KOUD SPOELEN
COOL
IRON
ON REPASSAGE DOUX SUR
REVERSE SIDE
L'ENVERS
COOL
IRON
ON
REVERSE SIDE WHILST REPASSAGE
DOUX
ET
DAMP
HUMIDE SUR L'ENVERS
REPASSAGE DOUX APRES
COOL IRON WHEN DRY SECHAGE
DETACH LINING BEFORE OTER
LA
DOUBLURE
WASH
AVANT LAVAGE
KUHL VON LINKS BUGELN
IM FUCHTEM ZUSTAND KUHL
VON
DER
RUCKSEITE
BUGELN
KUHL
BUGELN
WENN
TROCKEN
FUTTER FOR DEM WASCHEN
ENTFERNEN
OP LAGE TEMPERATUUR AAN DE
BINNENZIJDE STRIJKEN
IN VOCHTIGE TOESTAND AAN
DE BINNENZIJDE OP LAGE
TEMPERATUUR STRIJKEN
OP
LAGE
TEMPERATUUR
STRIJKEN NA HET DROGEN
VOERING VERWIJDEREN VOOR
HET WASSEN
DO NOT BLEACH
NICHT BLEICHEN
NIET BLEKEN
NE PAS CHLORER
DO NOT DRY CLEAN
NE PAS NETTOYER A SEC
DO
NOT
DRY
IN
SUNLIGHT
NE PAS SECHER AU SOLEIL
LA
DELUCHT
LATEN
NICHT CHEMISCH REINIGEN
NIET CHEMISCH REINIGEN
NICHT
IN
DER
SONNE
TROCKNEN
NIET IN DE ZON DROGEN
DO NOT HAND WASH
LAVAGE
INDERDIT
DO NOT IRON
NE PAS REPASSER
NICHT BUGELN
NIET STRIJKEN
DO NOT SOAK
NE PAS LAISSER TREMPER
NICHT EINWEICHEN
NIET WEKEN
DO NOT SPIN
NE PAS ESSORER
NICHT SCHLEUDERN
NIET CENTRIFUGEREN
NE PAS METTRE AU SECHE- NICHT
IM
TROCKNER NIET IN DE DROOGTROMMEL
LINGE
TROCKNEN
DROGEN
DO NOT TUMBLE DRY
A
DUTCH
NE
PAS
UTILISER
DO NOT USE DETERGENT DETERGENT
DE KEIN
BENUTZEN
HAND
WASCHMITTEL
DRY CLEAN ONLY
NETTOYAGE
SEULEMENT
DRY FLAT
SECHER A PLAT
HAND MADE
FAIT MAIN
HANDGEARBEITET
LAVER UNIQUEMENT A LA
MAIN
NUR PER HAND WASCHEN
HAND WASH ONLY
Tara Branderhorst
A
MAIN NICHT
VON
WASCHEN
GEEN HANDWAS
GEEN WASMIDDEL GEBRUIKEN
SEC
NUR CHEMISCH REINIGEN
CHEMISCH REINIGEN
LIEGEND TROCKNEN
LIGGEND DROGEN
MET DE HAND GEMAAKT
ENKEL HANDWAS
38
Production Manual
Appendix 3
Tara Branderhorst
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