coronn.com, Mallorca TOPOS
Transcription
coronn.com, Mallorca TOPOS
2. Boquer 7. Torella 3. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 8. Port Sóller 4. Caimari 9. Valldemossa 5. Alaró 10. Ses Trét Valldemossa 6. Fraquel 11. Sa Gubia Inca Artá Aloró Bunyola 12. Calviá 1. Cán Txanquet MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner Santanyi Cala d'Or 15. Castell de Santueri 13. Santanyi 1. Cán Txanquet Southeast, east 20 m. 19 18 6 4 5 1 2 3 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 20 21 22 23 1 Cachi kai 2 Chi craku 3 Tlanqui xanqui 4 Fledi ulkel 5 Fa un fum fi 6 Xao xoxin 7 Cuki 8 Teta blik 9 Tlasmeditelanea 10 Tila pa tlas 5+ 6b 7c 7c+ ? 7a+ 7a ? ? ? 11 Glillo aglidulce 12 Xin xubi 13 ? 14 Xin xampu 15 Brut lee 16 ? 17 Tai xixa 18 Xin peldon 19 ? 20 ? ? 7a+ ? 7c 7c+ 7a+ ? 7a ? ? 21 Quin fum fa 22 El cacho del chichi 23 ? 24 ? 7b+ 6c 5+ 5 24 Cap de Formentor Platia de Formentor How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá Calvià Inca MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Port de Pollença Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag 100 metres after the tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 2. Boquer All point of the compass 5 - 20 m. A couple up to 60 m. 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6 Roco d'U Trampo 7? 8? 9? 10 ? 11 + 12 ? 13 ? 14 La Creu 15 ? Neads gear 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 19 ? 20 ? 21 ? 22 L'Aguila Neads gear 23 L'Aguila direct 24 Seconda stella a destra 25 ? 26 ? 27 ? 28 Bicepmania 29 ? 30 ? 6c+ 6b 3 4+ 4+ 6c 7b 7b+ 6b+ 6b 6a+ 8a 6a 5+ 4 8a 6a+ 27 6a 5+ 6b 5+ 5,4,4+ 5+,4,4+ 7c 6b+ 6a+ 5+ 6b+ 5 4 21 22 23 24 25 26 20 17 18 19 16 13 14 15 5 4 3 2 1 6 28 29 30 7 8 9 12 10 P The bay How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P 11 These crags offer mainly boulder or "boulder like" climbing. Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. As you leave the village, there is a tree-lined avenue to the left. Turn left and follow this road until it turns to the right. Park and walk on the track that passes a farm and continues into the valley. A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. Enjoy a meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença. Direction Pollença Port d'Pollença Direction Alcúdia Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 3. Creveta Northeast 20 m. 9 24 1 2 3 4 1? 2 Nordcad 3? 4 Coordina Coordinator 5 Curset 6 Baba 7 Camisasaque 8 Krilin 9 Hyperion 10 Hyperion Derecho 1. Boquer 6. Torella 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Artá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça 9,10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 11 Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo 12 Jerita 13 Hussein 14 Terapia de Grupo 15 Ca magre, Puçes 16 Ja me Pagarás 17 Lastralopithecus 18 150 Sipis 19 Récords de Bunyola 20 El Sant Crist 6a+ 6b+ 6c 6b+ 6a+ 6c 6c 6a 6a+ 6a+ 18 19 20 21 Som-hi 22 Ball o'en Banyeta Verda 23 Somni Bucolic 24 ? 25 Estic fins u collons 26 ? 27 ? 28 ? 21 22 23 5+ 6b 6a+ ? 6a 6b+ ? 5+ P P Port d'Alcúdia Inca Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá 8 28 How to find the crag: 2. Creveta 3. Caimari 4. Alaró Valldemossa 5+ 6b+ 4+ 4+ 4 5 5 6a 5 6a+ 7 27 Pollença 7. Port Sóller 8. Valldemossa 9. Ses Trét 6 5 25 26 Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Port d'Pollença and then continue along the road to Cap Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the parking area on a track alongside an old pipeline. Turn right so that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge. Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area. Port d'Pollença Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 4. Caimari North 25 m. 4 4 2 6 3 1 1 Petit Poe 2 Ball de Bot 3 Empire State 4 Comando Madrid 5 Master hit 6 Calgo 7? 8 Motorhead 9 Terrorvisión 10 Toten Hosen 11 Penhouse 12 Hoodoo Gurus 13 Picados 5 11 7 8 9 6c 7a+ 8b 8b+ 8b+ 7b ? 7c+ 8a 7c 7c 7b+ 7c+ 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P 13 10 P How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 12 Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has two sectors of which "Las Perchas" is the one covered by this TOPO. To get there, park your car on the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue on the road signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. To reach the other crag (no TOPO), leave Caimari and park on the the first hairpin bend. Follow the track to the crag. The routes are graded 5 to 6b. Caimari Selva Direction Campanet Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 5.1. Alaró Take me to 5.2. West, northwest 30 m. 6 1 2 3 4 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6 Esteban 7 Amigos para siempre? 8 Froam party 9 Muérte Ya 10 Zatropeck 11 ? 7b 7a 6c 6a ? 7b+ 7c+ 7c 7c 7c ? 5, 6 7 8 9 10 12 Aferra el Tul 13 Mata Guiris 14 No res 15 Frit 16 Sobrassada 17 ? 18 Snowboard 19 Fido-Dido 20 Vagon roll 21 Las Mallas de Cristo 22 Hola que Tal 6c 7a+ 7a+ 6a 4+ 6a+ 5+ 6a 5 5 6a 11 13 14 12 15 16 P 17 18 Restaurant 19 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P P Castell d'Alaro is an entirely private property. Ask for prior permission to climb on castell_alaro@hotmail.com. It is essential that an agreed line is taken up to the rock and that it is agreed that the owners are not responsible in case of an accident. How to find the crag: 8. Valldemossa 20 21 22 Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find and follow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with many hairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant you will find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended. It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just before the restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag. Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bring lots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant where you can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommended for climbers with small children. Alaró Direction Inca Direction 713, Santa Maria Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 5.2. Alaró 1? 2 Hops Nops 3 Buf 4 To Pa Di 5 Clonción Take me to 5.1. West, northwest 30 m. ? 7b+ 7a 7a+ 7b 6 Pilar 7? 8? 9? 10 ? 11 ? 12 Pincha Uvas 13 Kiko 7b ? 6b+ 6b+ 6c 6a+ 4+,7b+ 6a P Restaurant 1 P 2 3 5 6 4 7 12 8 9 10 11 13 How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find and follow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with many hairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant you will find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended. It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just before the restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag. Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bring lots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant where you can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommended for climbers with small children. Alaró Direction Inca Direction 713, Santa Maria Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 6. Fraguel Northwest 30 m. 24 28 6 34 39 46 47 48 49 50 14 13 1 11 3 2 1 4 1. Boquer 5, 7 8 9 6 17 Le Gorille a un Bone mine 18 Amnesia 19 Fotball fan 6c,6c+ 20 Shabada 6b+,6c 21 Ramadán 7a+ 22 French kiss 7a 23 Terre d'adventure 5,6a+ 24 ? 6b 25 Fes el que Pugis 6c+ 26 Miss Palma 7b+ 27 Bodo Dodo 6c 28 ? 5+ 29 Humanoide 6c+ 30 ? 7a 31 Pantano Boas 8a 32 Muguelin y los Probetas 8a+ 33 Aloha from hell ? 34 Glasnost 8a 35 Tétè de Pene Valldemossa Santa Ponça 33 34, 35 36 38, 37 39 7c+ 7c+ 7c 7b 8a 7b+ 7c+ 6c 40 41 42 43 44 52 45 44 Esto no es Calvià 45 Sementir 46 Comando Rasta 47 ? 48 Peep Show's Garriga 49 Marmade 50 Tofol 51 Churropino 52 Chris line 6b+ 6a+ 6a 6b+ 7b+ 7b 6b+ 5+ 4 How to find the crag: Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa Maria. Turn left as you leave the village, about 200 meters before a bar on the your left-hand side of the road. Follow this road, which at times is of poor standard, through many hairpin bends. Park on the side of the road just after you have passed a 5 km post and follow the track to the crag. 5 km post Calvià Artá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx 31 32 36 ? 37 Roc punk 38 Cuencamelo 39 On es l'Avi 40 Pastanaga Punyetera 41 7b el Plumero 42 Cotorrot 43 Cous-cous Port d'Alcúdia Inca Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 10. Sa Gubia 7c ? 8a 8a+ 8b+ 8b 7b+ 8a+ 7a+ 7b+ 7c ? 8a+ 8b+ 7c+ 7c+ 7b+ 7c+ 7c+ 30 2. Creveta 3. Caimari 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét 16 17 18 22 23, 25 27, 29 28 24 Pollença 7. Port Sóller 8. Valldemossa 11. Calviá 19 15 10 1 Ojo Climbico 2 666 3 Tabasco 4 Harissa 5 Pink panther 6 El Terrat 7 Casa de Colores 8 Rosa de Sanatorio 9 Fakir 10 ? 11 Psycho killer 12 Jungle-hop 13 Saolpicón de Menisco 14 Solo Sex 15 ? 16 Goo-goo Mack 6. Torella 12 26 20 21 51 Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto P P Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi Bunyola Direction Santa Maria Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 7. Torella Northwest 30 m. 2 3 4 40 meter to the left. 5 1 6 1 Bernadi Company 2 Nycinyatos 3 Borinot 4 Ho passam Pillo 5 Bona Nyic 6 Molis de paper 7 Tutup 8 Na Faresta 9 S'Horabaixa 6c+ 4+ 6c 7a+ 6a+ 6b 6c 7b+ 7c 7 8 Tunnel 9 P Direction Sóller How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá Calvià MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive along the 710 from Sóller in the direction of Pollença. After 10 km you will reach the first tunnel. Park before reaching the tunnel on your left and follow the track to the crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass two routes that are not on this TOPO. They are Max Cady, 7c and Agent Orange, 8a+. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 8. Port Sóller Hotel Northwest 25 m - 35 m. 19 18 Cave far left. 15 21 4 16 5 6 78 9 10 11 12 13 14,15 150 meters 17 18, 19, 22 23 20 2 1 50 meters 3,4,5 1 Miguelín el politoxicómano 2 Cristo el transexual 3 Blau Ferrari 4 Alliens 5 El folla-guris 6 Doris 7? 8 Blobland 9 Bon vi 10 Els salvatges 6c 7a 8a 6b 6a 7b 7c 6c 6a 6b 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 14 Dit I Fet 15 Virgin 16 ? 17 Phantomas 18 Ficalito 19 Club super Tres 20 Ja son five 6c 6b 6a 7a 8a+ ? 7b 7c 7b 6c+ 21 Pic nic 22 ? 23 ? 24 ? 25 ? 26 ? 27 ? 6b 6a 6a 6c 6b+ 6b 6c 26 25 27 24 Bar P New luxurious Hotel How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive in to Port Sóller and follow the seafront. The "main" road splits into a wider road and two "No entry" signes appear. Turn sharp right and take the narrow road up the hill. Shortly after a bar on your left there is a new, a new luxurious hotel. Park outside the bar and take the footpath down to the crag. The bay Port Sóller Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 9.1. Valldemossa Take me to 9.2. South, southwest 15 m. 1 ? (not on the TOPO) 2 ? (not on the TOPO) 3 ? (not on the TOPO) 4? 5 Ropmpe dedos 6 Pérfino encanto 7? 8? 9? 4 4 4+ 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6b 5+ 6b Road 4 5 6 7 8 9 Road How to find the crag: Port d'Valldemossa 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa. Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto P P Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi Valldemossa Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 9.2. Valldemossa Southwest 25 m. Take me to 9.1. Southwest 40 m. 8 21 9 2 23 18 4 19 2,3 4,5 6 22, 23 7 1 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9 Lanky 10 Shorty 11 ? (not recommended) 30 20, 21 7c 7c 6b+ 6c+ ? 5+ 6b+ 6a 5+ 5+ 7a 8 9 10 12 ? 13 ? 14 ? 15 ? 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 19 Kiko 20 ? 21 ? 22 Palmolive 11 24 P 25 26 27 28 29, 30 31 32 33 Road Route number 12 to 17 (no TOPO) 6c 6b+ 7a 7a 7a 4+ 6b 6b 6b ? 7b 23 Intrepido 24 Nameless 25 Via des Clau 26 El Jubilado 27 Suphi 28 Another roadside attraction 29 Pepa 30 ? 31 Sostre den Burot 32 Direct (route 31) 33 Dali 6c 7a 6b 5 5+ 6b 6a+ 6b+ 6c+ 7a+ 5+ Port d'Valldemossa How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa. Valldemossa Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 10. Ses Trét North 25 m. 18 7 12 5 17, 18 19 1 6 5 27 26 34 1,2 3 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9? 10 ? ? 8a+ 7c 6c+ ? ? ? 8b ? 8a 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 14 ? 15 ? 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 19 ? 25 20 19 18 17 23 4,5 6,7 8 13 12 11 10 8 16 9 7a+ 7b 7b 8a 6b+ 7c 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 10 11 12, 13 14 15 How to find the crag: Direction Valldemossa P 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km milestone by the roadside. On the left you will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry riverbed. Park here and follow a track through the trees. You will pass some small bouldering crags after 250 metres, turn left after these and make your way to the crag. The crag is an old quarry and the routes are therefore numbered which makes route finding easy. Many routes are "manufactured". Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto P P Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi Direction S'Egeieta Copyright coronn AB, Sweden Take me to the right part. 11.1. Sa Gubia Left part of "Pares dels Coloms" South 25-40 m. Sector Espolon Sector Polla Boda Sector Princessa Sector Isla Bonita Sector Why Paret dels Coloms 10 Sector Excalibur 5 4 Sector Silicona 14 15 6 7 Route number 1 to 3 8 9, 10 11 12 Direction Sóller 13 (no TOPO) 1 Pecho lata (no TOPO) 2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO) 3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO) 4 Peur impossible 5 Es Poal 6 Esto no es Quinto 7 Sal de arenal 8 Tres menos cuarto 9 Front 242 10 Algo salvage 6b+ 6b,6a+ 6b 5,7a 6b 7a+ 6c 7b+ 7b+ 6b 11 Piñón Fijo 12 Silo sé no vengo 13 Perque triunfin els cannalas 14 Pesadilla final 15 Peladora 7b+ 6c 6b+ 6a+ 6c Bunyola Don't use these footpath !! P Restaurant Can Penasso How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Dry river bed Direction Palma Copyright coronn AB, Sweden Take me to the left part. 11.2. Sa Gubia Right part of "Pares dels Coloms" South Two pitches up to 60 m. 13 16 17 1 Humi 2 Mes rapit suc el vent 3 Seis pelas 4 Pellojo de tiburon 5 Decadencia corporal 6 Comechocos 7 Tao 8 Leather face 9 Pasteles de Isabel 10 Gay power 11 Vol de nuit 12 Tia melis 13 Estricnina 14 Danzomania 15 ? 16 Chungui chunguez 17 Guatón 6a+ 6a 6a,6c 7a 6c,7b+ 6b+ 6b,6c+ 7a+,6c+ 7b,6c+ 7a+ 6b 6a 5,5+,5 5+,6a+,6a+ 6a,5+ 5,6c 5+,6a Tap to find a detailed illustration 11 Direction Sóller 8 12 13 10, 9 11 15 14, 17 1 2 3 4 7,8 5 6 Bunyola Don't use these footpath !! P Restaurant Can Penasso How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Dry river bed Direction Palma Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1 Gubia normal 11.3. Sa Gubia "Gubia Normal", "Princessa Area", Sector "Espolon" and "Polla Boba" 2 Quan es fa Fec 3 Gubia variante 4 Chitas marchitas 5 Charly Danone 6 Jódete y Baila 7 Fill de ric 8 Puta Perro 9 La Ley del Deseo South Pitches up to 200 m. 2+,4+, 3+,3+, 4+,3,3 2+,5,5,5 4+ 6b+ 7a+ 6b+ 6a 6a+ 5,5,4+,5 10 Sonrisa vertical 11 The master 12 Polla Bopa 13 Mejico Lindo 14 Oasis 15 Via des los Bomberos 5,6a 5+,6a 5+,6a 5+,6a+ 6a+ 6a,6a+ 6b,6b 6b 6c,5,6a, 6a,5 6a+ 6a+ 7b+,8b+ 8a,? 4,6a+, 6b+,6b,6b 4 5 4+ 4+ 7b 7b+ 16 Hambre Eterna 17 Princessa 18 ? 19 ? 20 Moco de Pravo 21 De Gorrones 22 Sexo Debil 23 Cannabis in Vitro 24 El jardin de la Abuela 25 Pataje Español 26 Tantum Ergo 27 Mi pichina 28 Miju 20 21 Tap to find a detailed illustration 2 Direction Sóller 9 18 15 16 17 14 1,2 3 4 7 5 6 8 19 20, 21, 22 23 24 9, 11, 10 12, 13 25 26 Bunyola Don't use these footpath !! P Restaurant Can Penasso How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Dry river bed Direction Palma Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1 To Kiski'm'toca 2 Fina y Segura 3 La isla Bonita 4 Placa Nuevo 5 Franceces 6 Phantasmagoria 7 Bongo Bongo 8 Gigolo 9 Why! 10 Cortocircuito 11 Zaragüay 12 Agáratte Maldito 11.4. Sa Gubia Sector "Isla Bonita", "Why" South Pitches up to 90 m. 12 3 5 6+ 6b 6b+,4,6a+ 5+,6b 6a,5,6c 7a+ 7a+ 7b 6b+ 6b 6a 7b+ 8 Tap to find a detailed illustration 11 5 2 1 Direction Sóller 6 7 8,9 10,11 Bunyola Don't use these footpath !! 3 4 5 6 P Restaurant Can Penasso How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Dry river bed Direction Palma Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 11.5. Sa Gubia Sector "Excalibur", "Silicona" South Pitches up to 60 m. 1 KGB 2 Na Guarra 3 Excalibur 4 No Haces más Grado porque Eres Enado 5 Bofetadas de Placer 6 Charismatic 7 Ópera prima 8 Trampera Matinera 9 Il Panzerotto 10 Horrible Belleza 11 Hawaii 5-0 12 Silicona 13 Lulu 14 Proteina vegetal 15 Totom fa el que Vol 16 Resaca 17 Gran Pis 18 Rustic Pogo 19 Familia iscariote 20 Familia variante 10 3 7 8 9 6c+ 6a 5+,5+ 6c 7b+ 6c 6a+ 6b 6a+ 7a 4+ 6b+ 6a+ 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6a 6b 20 16 17 19, 20 18 15 14 12 13 11 Tap to find a detailed illustration Direction Sóller 6 5 2 3, 4 7 Bunyola Don't use these footpath !! 1 P Restaurant Can Penasso How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Dry river bed Direction Palma Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 12. Calviá West 25 m. 20 16, 17, 18 4 1 2 3,4 5 6 1? 2? 3 Seman Semidesnatado 4 Vuelo sin Moto 5 No Cal Senior fiscal 6 Chanso 7 Perona 8 Tirili 9 Saque mate 10 Jota jota 6b 6a 6b 6c+ 5+ 6a+ 6c 6b 6c 6b 11 Tu polla me enrolla 12 Batakalofis 13 Caguerra perpetua 14 Extrafina 15 ? 16 Pinchito moruno 17 El ultiomo de la fila 18 Calentura invernal 19 Primera experiensa 20 Filas pipas 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 6a 5+ 5+ 6a+ 5+ 5+ 6a 5+ 4+ 6a+ 1. Boquer 6. Torella Port d'Alcúdia 3. Caimari 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá P 2. Creveta Pollença 7. Port Sóller MALLORCA Santa Ponça 19 17 18 P Drive from Palma in the direction of Calvià, in the village, take right where a signpost shows "Establishments". Continue out of the village until you just have past a section with stone walls on both sides of the road. Park in a small lay-bay on the right side of the road in a bend. Walk back 75 metres and climb over a fence. Follow the track into the wood and the valley and after approximately 700 meters you will see the crag when you stands below it. The climbing is not excelent compared with other crags on Mallorca but shadow make people chose it even though. Santa Maria PALMA Andratx 16 How to find the crag: Calvià 8. Valldemossa 15 Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto P P Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 13.1. Santanyi Take me to 13.2. The left part South 20 m. 1? 2 Tom y jerry 3 Ebam 4 Ebamsa 5 Semen de trigo 6? 7 foot hook 8 El diedro 9 Vino Tino 10 Tapas 1. Boquer 6. Torella Calvià Inca Artá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Santa Ponça 6b+ 7a 7a 6b 6c P Santanyi How to find the crag: Aloró 5. Fraquel 10. Sa Gubia Andratx 11 Blame in the rain 12 ? 13 ? 14 Xiscu que Reiliscu 15 Tupé de Rocké 15 Cala Figuera Port d'Alcúdia Bunyola 11. Calviá 11 12 13 14 6a+ 5 4+ 5 6b 6c 6b+ 6a 6a+ 6a+ 2. Creveta 3. Caimari 4. Alaró Valldemossa 5 6 7 8 9 10 4 Pollença 7. Port Sóller 8. Valldemossa 9. Ses Trét 3 2 1 Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you have left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for Cala Santanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turn and then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a car park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the face of the crag. Cala Santanyi Coust line Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 13.2. Santanyi Take me to 13.1. The right part South 20 m. 21 17 32 16 1. Boquer 6. Torella Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel 10. Sa Gubia MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça 26 27 28 29 7a+ 6a 7a+ 8a 7b 7b+ 8a 6c 7a 6c P Santanyi Cala Figuera Port d'Alcúdia Bunyola 11. Calviá 27 Na c'al les Seychelles 28 Colestrol party 29 Batchcampft 30 Tenaci-pollas 31 Poseidón 32 Chuteur Fou 33 Go Johnny 34 Rompepierna 35 Naranja 36 Espolón 31 30 How to find the crag: 2. Creveta 3. Caimari 4. Alaró Valldemossa 6a+ 7a 7a 7b 7b+ 7b+ 7a+ 7b 6b+ 7b 7b 35 36 Pollença 7. Port Sóller 8. Valldemossa 9. Ses Trét 19 17,18 16 ? 17 Un dimanche a la companye 18 Tocino for pepino 19 Flesh for Dani 20 Comepiedras 21 Darsa Prisa 22 Miguel's 23 La Calle de ritmo 24 Psicomambo 25 ? 26 Cocino liger 20, 22 23 24 25 21 33 34 Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you have left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for Cala Santanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turn and then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a car park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the face of the crag. Cala Santanyi Coust line Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 14.1. Cala Magraner Take me to 14.2. / 14.3. The cave and left sector South 20 m. 11 12 13 6 1 2 3 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9? 7c+ 7c 8a 8a 8a+ 7a+ 7b+ 7a+ 7a 10 ? 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 14 ? 15 ? 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 16 17 15 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 10 5 4 14 8 9 7 7a 6a 6a 6a 6c 6c 7a 6c 6a+ 19 ? 20 ? 21 ? 22 ? 23 ? 24 ? 25 ? 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6c 6b 6b+ 6c Direction Manacor P Manacor How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá Inca MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a Tjunction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk through the big gate and follow the road until you see a farm. To the left a track turns of down a sloop. The track turns to the right after you have passed a wall and then you just follow's this down to the see and the crag after about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket. Coastal strip Porto Cristo Calas de Mallorca Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 14.2. Cala Magraner Take me to 14.1. / 14.3. The middle sector South 20 m. 10 2 3 1 5 4 6 7 8 11 12 13 9 Direction Manacor 7a 6c+ ? 5+ 5 4+ 4 4+ 6c 6c+ 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 6b+ 6c 6b P Manacor Porto Cristo How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a Tjunction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk through the big gate and follow the road until you see a farm. To the left a track turns of down a sloop. The track turns to the right after you have passed a wall and then you just follow's this down to the see and the crag after about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket. Coastal strip 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9? 10 ? Calas de Mallorca Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 14.3. Cala Magraner Take me to 14.1. / 14.2. The right sector South 20 m. 4 3 14 2, 3 1 4, 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9? 10 ? 6b 6c+ 6c 7a 6c+ 6b 6a 6a 6a 6a 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 14 ? 15 ? 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 19 ? 20 ? 6b+ 6a 5+ 55+ 6a 6a 5 6c+ 6a 12 13 14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 15 17 16 19 18 Sea Direction Manacor P Manacor Porto Cristo 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a Tjunction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk through the big gate and follow the road until you see a farm. To the left a track turns of down a sloop. The track turns to the right after you have passed a wall and then you just follow's this down to the see and the crag after about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket. Coastal strip How to find the crag: Calas de Mallorca Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 15. Castell de Santueri Southeast, east 20 m. 1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6? 7? 8? 9? 10 ? 11 ? 12 ? ? ? 7b 8a 7b 7a+ 6b 6c 7b+ 8a 7b 7c 11 67 3 4 89 12 10 5 1,2 Direction Manacor Felantix How to find the crag: 1. Boquer 6. Torella 2. Creveta Pollença Port d'Alcúdia 7. Port Sóller 3. Caimari 8. Valldemossa 4. Alaró 9. Ses Trét Valldemossa 10. Sa Gubia Calvià Inca Artá Aloró 5. Fraquel Bunyola 11. Calviá MALLORCA Santa Maria PALMA Andratx Santa Ponça Vilafranca Manacor Puerto Cristo Campos del Puerto Felantix 14. Cala Magraner 12. Santa Ponça Santanyi Cala d'Or 13. Santanyi P P Drive to Felantix and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left where a signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the castle and park there. To the right of the steps to the castle is a track going down, follow that to the crag. Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass them on your walk down to the "main" crag. Look up on these grades as suggestions, we haven't meet so many how has climbed these routes so the grades are very subjective. Direction Santanyi Copyright coronn AB, Sweden