coronn.com, Mallorca TOPOS

Transcription

2. Boquer
7. Torella
3. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
8. Port Sóller
4. Caimari
9. Valldemossa
5. Alaró
10. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
6. Fraquel
11. Sa Gubia
Inca
Artá
Aloró
Bunyola
12. Calviá
1. Cán Txanquet
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
15. Castell de
Santueri
13. Santanyi
1. Cán Txanquet
Southeast, east
20 m.
19
18
6
4 5
1 2 3
7
8 9 10 11 12
13
14
15 16
17
20
21 22 23
1 Cachi kai
2 Chi craku
3 Tlanqui xanqui
4 Fledi ulkel
5 Fa un fum fi
6 Xao xoxin
7 Cuki
8 Teta blik
9 Tlasmeditelanea
10 Tila pa tlas
5+
6b
7c
7c+
?
7a+
7a
?
?
?
11 Glillo aglidulce
12 Xin xubi
13 ?
14 Xin xampu
15 Brut lee
16 ?
17 Tai xixa
18 Xin peldon
19 ?
20 ?
?
7a+
?
7c
7c+
7a+
?
7a
?
?
21 Quin fum fa
22 El cacho del chichi
23 ?
24 ?
7b+
6c
5+
5
24
Cap de Formentor
Platia de Formentor
How to find the crag:
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
Calvià
Inca
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Port de Pollença
Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the
village along the coast. Continue in the direction of
Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag 100 metres
after the tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many
restaurants in Port d'Pollença.
Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
2. Boquer
All point of the compass
5 - 20 m.
A couple up to 60 m.
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6 Roco d'U Trampo
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
11 +
12 ?
13 ?
14 La Creu
15 ? Neads gear
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?
21 ?
22 L'Aguila Neads gear
23 L'Aguila direct
24 Seconda stella a destra
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 Bicepmania
29 ?
30 ?
6c+
6b
3
4+
4+
6c
7b
7b+
6b+
6b
6a+
8a
6a
5+
4
8a
6a+
27
6a
5+
6b
5+
5,4,4+
5+,4,4+
7c
6b+
6a+
5+
6b+
5
4
21
22 23
24 25
26
20
17 18 19
16
13
14
15
5
4
3
2
1
6
28
29
30
7
8
9
12
10
P
The
bay
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
11
These crags offer mainly boulder or "boulder like" climbing.
Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. As
you leave the village, there is a tree-lined avenue to the left. Turn left and follow
this road until it turns to the right. Park and walk on the track that passes a farm
and continues into the valley. A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. Enjoy
a meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença.
Direction
Pollença
Port d'Pollença
Direction
Alcúdia
3. Creveta
Northeast
20 m.
9
24
1
2
3
4
1?
2 Nordcad
3?
4 Coordina Coordinator
5 Curset
6 Baba
7 Camisasaque
8 Krilin
9 Hyperion
10 Hyperion Derecho
1. Boquer
6. Torella
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Artá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
9,10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17
11 Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo
12 Jerita
13 Hussein
14 Terapia de Grupo
15 Ca magre, Puçes
16 Ja me Pagarás
17 Lastralopithecus
18 150 Sipis
19 Récords de Bunyola
20 El Sant Crist
6a+
6b+
6c
6b+
6a+
6c
6c
6a
6a+
6a+
18 19 20
21 Som-hi
22 Ball o'en Banyeta Verda
23 Somni Bucolic
24 ?
25 Estic fins u collons
26 ?
27 ?
28 ?
21
22 23
5+
6b
6a+
?
6a
6b+
?
5+
P
P
Port d'Alcúdia
Inca
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
8
28
2. Creveta
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
Valldemossa
5+
6b+
4+
4+
4
5
5
6a
5
6a+
7
27
Pollença
7. Port Sóller
8. Valldemossa
9. Ses Trét
6
5
25 26
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Port d'Pollença and then continue along the road to Cap Formentor. After 5
km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador d'es Columet". Park at the big car
park and walk back from the parking area on a track alongside an old pipeline. Turn
right so that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge. Cross the Col, and
turn left following the crag to the climbing area.
Port d'Pollença
4. Caimari
North
25 m.
4
4
2
6
3
1
1 Petit Poe
2 Ball de Bot
3 Empire State
4 Comando Madrid
5 Master hit
6 Calgo
7?
8 Motorhead
9 Terrorvisión
10 Toten Hosen
11 Penhouse
12 Hoodoo Gurus
13 Picados
5
11
7
8
9
6c
7a+
8b
8b+
8b+
7b
?
7c+
8a
7c
7c
7b+
7c+
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
13
10
P
1. Boquer
12
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has two
sectors of which "Las Perchas" is the one covered by this TOPO. To get there, park
your car on the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue on
the road signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km
post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and
after 200 meters the crag will be on your left.
To reach the other crag (no TOPO), leave Caimari and park on the the first hairpin
bend. Follow the track to the crag. The routes are graded 5 to 6b.
Caimari
Selva
Direction
Campanet
5.1. Alaró
Take me to 5.2.
West, northwest
30 m.
6
1
2
3
4
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6 Esteban
7 Amigos para siempre?
8 Froam party
9 Muérte Ya
10 Zatropeck
11 ?
7b
7a
6c
6a
?
7b+
7c+
7c
7c
7c
?
5,
6
7
8
9
10
12 Aferra el Tul
13 Mata Guiris
14 No res
15 Frit
16 Sobrassada
17 ?
18 Snowboard
19 Fido-Dido
20 Vagon roll
21 Las Mallas de Cristo
22 Hola que Tal
6c
7a+
7a+
6a
4+
6a+
5+
6a
5
5
6a
11
13 14
12
15
16
P
17
18
Restaurant
19
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
P
Castell d'Alaro is an entirely private
property. Ask for prior permission to
climb on castell_alaro@hotmail.com.
It is essential that an agreed line is
taken up to the rock and that it is
agreed that the owners are not
responsible in case of an accident.
8. Valldemossa
20 21 22
Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find and
follow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with many
hairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant you
will find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended.
It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just before
the restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag.
Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bring
lots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant where
you can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommended
for climbers with small children.
Alaró
Direction
Inca
Direction
713, Santa Maria
5.2. Alaró
1?
2 Hops Nops
3 Buf
4 To Pa Di
5 Clonción
Take me to 5.1.
West, northwest
30 m.
?
7b+
7a
7a+
7b
6 Pilar
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
11 ?
12 Pincha Uvas
13 Kiko
7b
?
6b+
6b+
6c
6a+
4+,7b+
6a
P
Restaurant
1
P
2
3
5 6
4
7
12
8
9
10 11
13
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find and
follow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with many
hairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant you
will find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended.
It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just before
the restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag.
Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bring
lots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant where
you can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommended
for climbers with small children.
Alaró
Direction
Inca
Direction
713, Santa Maria
6. Fraguel
Northwest
30 m.
24
28
6
34
39
46 47 48 49 50
14
13
1
11
3
2
1
4
1. Boquer
5, 7 8 9
6
17 Le Gorille a un Bone mine
18 Amnesia
19 Fotball fan
6c,6c+ 20 Shabada
6b+,6c 21 Ramadán
7a+
22 French kiss
7a
23 Terre d'adventure
5,6a+ 24 ?
6b
25 Fes el que Pugis
6c+
26 Miss Palma
7b+
27 Bodo Dodo
6c
28 ?
5+
29 Humanoide
6c+
30 ?
7a
31 Pantano Boas
8a
32 Muguelin y los Probetas
8a+
33 Aloha from hell
?
34 Glasnost
8a
35 Tétè de Pene
Valldemossa
Santa Ponça
33
34,
35
36
38,
37 39
7c+
7c+
7c
7b
8a
7b+
7c+
6c
40
41
42 43 44
52
45
44 Esto no es Calvià
45 Sementir
46 Comando Rasta
47 ?
48 Peep Show's Garriga
49 Marmade
50 Tofol
51 Churropino
52 Chris line
6b+
6a+
6a
6b+
7b+
7b
6b+
5+
4
Drive from Bunyola in the direction of
Santa Maria. Turn left as you leave the
village, about 200 meters before a bar
on the your left-hand side of the road.
Follow this road, which at times is of
poor standard, through many hairpin
bends. Park on the side of the road
just after you have passed a 5 km post
and follow the track to the crag.
5 km post
Calvià
Artá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
31 32
36 ?
37 Roc punk
38 Cuencamelo
39 On es l'Avi
40 Pastanaga Punyetera
41 7b el Plumero
42 Cotorrot
43 Cous-cous
Port d'Alcúdia
Inca
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
10. Sa Gubia
7c
?
8a
8a+
8b+
8b
7b+
8a+
7a+
7b+
7c
?
8a+
8b+
7c+
7c+
7b+
7c+
7c+
30
2. Creveta
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
16
17 18
22 23, 25 27, 29
28
24
Pollença
7. Port Sóller
8. Valldemossa
11. Calviá
19
15
10
1 Ojo Climbico
2 666
3 Tabasco
4 Harissa
5 Pink panther
6 El Terrat
7 Casa de Colores
8 Rosa de Sanatorio
9 Fakir
10 ?
11 Psycho killer
12 Jungle-hop
13 Saolpicón de Menisco
14 Solo Sex
15 ?
16 Goo-goo Mack
6. Torella
12
26
20 21
51
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
P
P
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
Bunyola
Direction
Santa Maria
7. Torella
Northwest
30 m.
2
3
4
40 meter to the left.
5
1
6
1 Bernadi Company
2 Nycinyatos
3 Borinot
4 Ho passam Pillo
5 Bona Nyic
6 Molis de paper
7 Tutup
8 Na Faresta
9 S'Horabaixa
6c+
4+
6c
7a+
6a+
6b
6c
7b+
7c
7
8
Tunnel
9
P
Direction
Sóller
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
Calvià
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive along the 710 from Sóller in the direction of Pollença.
After 10 km you will reach the first tunnel. Park before
reaching the tunnel on your left and follow the track to
the crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass two
routes that are not on this TOPO. They are Max Cady,
7c and Agent Orange, 8a+.
8. Port Sóller
Hotel
Northwest
25 m - 35 m.
19
18
Cave far left.
15
21
4
16
5
6
78
9 10
11
12 13
14,15
150 meters
17
18,
19, 22 23
20
2
1
50 meters
3,4,5
1 Miguelín el politoxicómano
2 Cristo el transexual
3 Blau Ferrari
4 Alliens
5 El folla-guris
6 Doris
7?
8 Blobland
9 Bon vi
10 Els salvatges
6c
7a
8a
6b
6a
7b
7c
6c
6a
6b
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 Dit I Fet
15 Virgin
16 ?
17 Phantomas
18 Ficalito
19 Club super Tres
20 Ja son five
6c
6b
6a
7a
8a+
?
7b
7c
7b
6c+
21 Pic nic
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
6b
6a
6a
6c
6b+
6b
6c
26
25 27
24
Bar
P
New
luxurious
Hotel
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive in to Port Sóller and follow the seafront. The "main"
road splits into a wider road and two "No entry" signes
appear. Turn sharp right and take the narrow road up the
hill. Shortly after a bar on your left there is a new, a new
luxurious hotel. Park outside the bar and take the footpath
down to the crag.
The
bay
Port Sóller
9.1. Valldemossa
Take me to 9.2.
South, southwest
15 m.
1 ? (not on the TOPO)
4?
5 Ropmpe dedos
6 Pérfino encanto
7?
8?
9?
4
4
4+
6a
6a+
6a+
6b
5+
6b
Road
4
5
6
7
8
9
Road
Port d'Valldemossa
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Drive from Palma in the direction of
Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive
towards the coast, pass the first right
turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take
the next turning to the right, signposted
Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view
opens and you can see the sea. The
crags are alongside the road, in fact,
you drive under some of them. Park in
a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk
back 150 meters to reach this crag. On
the way, you pass a small crag with
routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are
not included in this TOPO. We
recommend the restaurant in Port
d'Valldemossa.
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
P
P
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
Valldemossa
9.2. Valldemossa
Southwest
25 m.
Take me to 9.1.
Southwest
40 m.
8
21
9
2
23
18
4
19
2,3 4,5
6
22,
23
7
1
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9 Lanky
10 Shorty
11 ? (not recommended)
30
20,
21
7c
7c
6b+
6c+
?
5+
6b+
6a
5+
5+
7a
8 9
10
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 Kiko
20 ?
21 ?
22 Palmolive
11
24
P
25 26
27 28
29,
30
31
32 33
Road
Route number 12 to 17
(no TOPO)
6c
6b+
7a
7a
7a
4+
6b
6b
6b
?
7b
23 Intrepido
24 Nameless
25 Via des Clau
26 El Jubilado
27 Suphi
28 Another roadside attraction
29 Pepa
30 ?
31 Sostre den Burot
32 Direct (route 31)
33 Dali
6c
7a
6b
5
5+
6b
6a+
6b+
6c+
7a+
5+
Port d'Valldemossa
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards
the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning
to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags
are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay
just after the main crag. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
Valldemossa
10. Ses Trét
North
25 m.
18
7
12
5
17,
18
19
1
6 5
27 26
34
1,2
3
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
?
8a+
7c
6c+
?
?
?
8b
?
8a
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
25
20 19 18 17
23
4,5 6,7 8
13 12 11 10
8
16
9
7a+
7b
7b
8a
6b+
7c
7a+
7a+
7a+
10
11
12,
13
14
15
Direction
Valldemossa
P
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Valldemossa. 4 km after you have
passed the village of S'Egleita you pass
a 14km milestone by the roadside. On
the left you will find a lay-bay close to
a bridge over a dry riverbed. Park here
and follow a track through the trees.
You will pass some small bouldering
crags after 250 metres, turn left after
these and make your way to the crag.
The crag is an old quarry and the routes
are therefore numbered which makes
route finding easy. Many routes are
"manufactured".
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
P
P
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
Direction
S'Egeieta
Take me to the right part.
11.1. Sa Gubia
Left part of "Pares dels Coloms"
South
25-40 m.
Sector
Espolon
Sector
Polla Boda
Sector
Princessa
Sector
Isla Bonita
Sector Why
Paret dels
Coloms
10
Sector
Excalibur
5
4
Sector
Silicona
14 15
6
7
Route number 1 to 3
8 9,
10
11 12
Direction
Sóller
13
(no TOPO)
1 Pecho lata (no TOPO)
2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO)
3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO)
4 Peur impossible
5 Es Poal
6 Esto no es Quinto
7 Sal de arenal
8 Tres menos cuarto
9 Front 242
10 Algo salvage
6b+
6b,6a+
6b
5,7a
6b
7a+
6c
7b+
7b+
6b
11 Piñón Fijo
12 Silo sé no vengo
13 Perque triunfin els cannalas
14 Pesadilla final
15 Peladora
7b+
6c
6b+
6a+
6c
Bunyola
Don't use these
footpath !!
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass
Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park
there, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, and
follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which
shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers
do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross
that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag.
Dry river bed
Direction
Palma
Take me to the left part.
11.2. Sa Gubia
Right part of "Pares dels Coloms"
South
Two pitches up to 60 m.
13
16
17
1 Humi
2 Mes rapit suc el vent
3 Seis pelas
4 Pellojo de tiburon
5 Decadencia corporal
6 Comechocos
7 Tao
8 Leather face
9 Pasteles de Isabel
10 Gay power
11 Vol de nuit
12 Tia melis
13 Estricnina
14 Danzomania
15 ?
16 Chungui chunguez
17 Guatón
6a+
6a
6a,6c
7a
6c,7b+
6b+
6b,6c+
7a+,6c+
7b,6c+
7a+
6b
6a
5,5+,5
5+,6a+,6a+
6a,5+
5,6c
5+,6a
Tap to find a detailed illustration
11
Direction
Sóller
8
12 13
10,
9 11
15
14,
17
1
2
3
4
7,8
5
6
Bunyola
Don't use these
footpath !!
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Dry river bed
Direction
Palma
1 Gubia normal
11.3. Sa Gubia
"Gubia Normal", "Princessa Area",
Sector "Espolon" and "Polla Boba"
2 Quan es fa Fec
3 Gubia variante
4 Chitas marchitas
5 Charly Danone
6 Jódete y Baila
7 Fill de ric
8 Puta Perro
9 La Ley del Deseo
South
Pitches up to 200 m.
2+,4+,
3+,3+,
4+,3,3
2+,5,5,5
4+
6b+
7a+
6b+
6a
6a+
5,5,4+,5
10 Sonrisa vertical
11 The master
12 Polla Bopa
13 Mejico Lindo
14 Oasis
15 Via des los Bomberos
5,6a
5+,6a
5+,6a
5+,6a+
6a+
6a,6a+
6b,6b
6b
6c,5,6a,
6a,5
6a+
6a+
7b+,8b+
8a,?
4,6a+,
6b+,6b,6b
4
5
4+
4+
7b
7b+
16 Hambre Eterna
17 Princessa
18 ?
19 ?
20 Moco de Pravo
21 De Gorrones
22 Sexo Debil
23 Cannabis in Vitro
24 El jardin de la Abuela
25 Pataje Español
26 Tantum Ergo
27 Mi pichina
28 Miju
20
21
2
Direction
Sóller
9
18
15 16
17
14
1,2
3
4
7
5 6
8
19 20,
21,
22
23
24
9, 11,
10 12,
13
25
26
Bunyola
Don't use these
footpath !!
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Dry river bed
Direction
Palma
1 To Kiski'm'toca
2 Fina y Segura
3 La isla Bonita
4 Placa Nuevo
5 Franceces
6 Phantasmagoria
7 Bongo Bongo
8 Gigolo
9 Why!
10 Cortocircuito
11 Zaragüay
12 Agáratte Maldito
11.4. Sa Gubia
Sector "Isla Bonita", "Why"
South
Pitches up to 90 m.
12
3
5
6+
6b
6b+,4,6a+
5+,6b
6a,5,6c
7a+
7a+
7b
6b+
6b
6a
7b+
8
11
5
2
1
Direction
Sóller
6
7 8,9
10,11
Bunyola
Don't use these
footpath !!
3
4 5
6
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Dry river bed
Direction
Palma
11.5. Sa Gubia
Sector "Excalibur", "Silicona"
South
Pitches up to 60 m.
1 KGB
2 Na Guarra
3 Excalibur
4 No Haces más Grado
porque Eres Enado
5 Bofetadas de Placer
6 Charismatic
7 Ópera prima
8 Trampera Matinera
9 Il Panzerotto
10 Horrible Belleza
11 Hawaii 5-0
12 Silicona
13 Lulu
14 Proteina vegetal
15 Totom fa el que Vol
16 Resaca
17 Gran Pis
18 Rustic Pogo
19 Familia iscariote
20 Familia variante
10
3
7
8
9
6c+
6a
5+,5+
6c
7b+
6c
6a+
6b
6a+
7a
4+
6b+
6a+
6a
6a+
6a+
6b
6b+
6a
6b
20
16 17
19,
20
18
15
14
12
13
11
Direction
Sóller
6
5
2
3, 4
7
Bunyola
Don't use these
footpath !!
1
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Dry river bed
Direction
Palma
12. Calviá
West
25 m.
20
16,
17,
18
4
1
2
3,4
5
6
1?
2?
3 Seman Semidesnatado
4 Vuelo sin Moto
5 No Cal Senior fiscal
6 Chanso
7 Perona
8 Tirili
9 Saque mate
10 Jota jota
6b
6a
6b
6c+
5+
6a+
6c
6b
6c
6b
11 Tu polla me enrolla
12 Batakalofis
13 Caguerra perpetua
14 Extrafina
15 ?
16 Pinchito moruno
17 El ultiomo de la fila
18 Calentura invernal
19 Primera experiensa
20 Filas pipas
7
8
9 10
11 12
13 14
6a
5+
5+
6a+
5+
5+
6a
5+
4+
6a+
1. Boquer
6. Torella
Port d'Alcúdia
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
P
2. Creveta
Pollença
7. Port Sóller
MALLORCA
Santa Ponça
19
17 18
P
Calvià, in the village, take right where
a signpost shows "Establishments".
Continue out of the village until you
just have past a section with stone
walls on both sides of the road. Park
in a small lay-bay on the right side of
the road in a bend. Walk back 75
metres and climb over a fence. Follow
the track into the wood and the valley
and after approximately 700 meters
you will see the crag when you stands
below it. The climbing is not excelent
compared with other crags on Mallorca
but shadow make people chose it even
though.
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
16
Calvià
8. Valldemossa
15
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
P
P
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
13.1. Santanyi
Take me to 13.2.
The left part
South
20 m.
1?
2 Tom y jerry
3 Ebam
4 Ebamsa
5 Semen de trigo
6?
7 foot hook
8 El diedro
9 Vino Tino
10 Tapas
1. Boquer
6. Torella
Calvià
Inca
Artá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Santa Ponça
6b+
7a
7a
6b
6c
P
Santanyi
Aloró
5. Fraquel
10. Sa Gubia
Andratx
11 Blame in the rain
12 ?
13 ?
14 Xiscu que Reiliscu
15 Tupé de Rocké
15
Cala Figuera
Port d'Alcúdia
Bunyola
11. Calviá
11 12
13 14
6a+
5
4+
5
6b
6c
6b+
6a
6a+
6a+
2. Creveta
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
Valldemossa
5 6 7 8 9 10
4
Pollença
7. Port Sóller
8. Valldemossa
9. Ses Trét
3
2
1
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you have
left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for Cala
Santanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turn
and then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a
car park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the face
of the crag.
Cala Santanyi
Coust line
13.2. Santanyi
Take me to 13.1.
The right part
South
20 m.
21
17
32
16
1. Boquer
6. Torella
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
10. Sa Gubia
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
26 27 28
29
7a+
6a
7a+
8a
7b
7b+
8a
6c
7a
6c
P
Santanyi
Cala Figuera
Port d'Alcúdia
Bunyola
11. Calviá
27 Na c'al les Seychelles
28 Colestrol party
29 Batchcampft
30 Tenaci-pollas
31 Poseidón
32 Chuteur Fou
33 Go Johnny
34 Rompepierna
35 Naranja
36 Espolón
31
30
2. Creveta
3. Caimari
4. Alaró
Valldemossa
6a+
7a
7a
7b
7b+
7b+
7a+
7b
6b+
7b
7b
35 36
Pollença
7. Port Sóller
8. Valldemossa
9. Ses Trét
19
17,18
16 ?
17 Un dimanche a la companye
18 Tocino for pepino
19 Flesh for Dani
20 Comepiedras
21 Darsa Prisa
22 Miguel's
23 La Calle de ritmo
24 Psicomambo
25 ?
26 Cocino liger
20, 22 23 24
25
21
33 34
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you have
left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for Cala
Santanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turn
and then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a
car park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the face
of the crag.
Cala Santanyi
Coust line
14.1. Cala Magraner
Take me to 14.2. / 14.3.
The cave and left sector
South
20 m.
11 12 13
6
1 2 3
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9?
7c+
7c
8a
8a
8a+
7a+
7b+
7a+
7a
10 ?
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
16 17
15
18
19
20 21
22 23 24
25
10
5
4
14
8 9
7
7a
6a
6a
6a
6c
6c
7a
6c
6a+
19 ?
20 ?
21 ?
22 ?
23 ?
24 ?
25 ?
6a
6a+
6a+
6c
6b
6b+
6c
Direction
Manacor
P
Manacor
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
Inca
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a Tjunction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short
drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of
the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with
trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed
small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a
large lay-bay, park here. Walk through the big gate and follow the road until you see a farm. To
the left a track turns of down a sloop. The track turns to the right after you have passed a wall
and then you just follow's this down to the see and the crag after about 1 km. A beautiful place,
exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children
and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to.
Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.
Coastal strip
Porto Cristo
Calas de
Mallorca
14.2. Cala Magraner
Take me to 14.1. / 14.3.
The middle sector
South
20 m.
10
2 3
1
5
4
6
7
8
11
12
13
9
Direction
Manacor
7a
6c+
?
5+
5
4+
4
4+
6c
6c+
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
6b+
6c
6b
P
Manacor
Porto Cristo
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Coastal strip
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
Calas de
Mallorca
14.3. Cala Magraner
Take me to 14.1. / 14.2.
The right sector
South
20 m.
4
3
14
2,
3
1
4, 5
6
7
8
9
10 11
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
6b
6c+
6c
7a
6c+
6b
6a
6a
6a
6a
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 ?
15 ?
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?
6b+
6a
5+
55+
6a
6a
5
6c+
6a
12 13
14,
15,
16,
16,
17,
18,
19,
20
15
17
16
19
18
Sea
Direction
Manacor
P
Manacor
Porto Cristo
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Coastal strip
Calas de
Mallorca
15. Castell de Santueri
Southeast, east
20 m.
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6?
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
11 ?
12 ?
?
?
7b
8a
7b
7a+
6b
6c
7b+
8a
7b
7c
11
67
3
4
89
12
10
5
1,2
Direction
Manacor
Felantix
1. Boquer
6. Torella
2. Creveta
Pollença
Port d'Alcúdia
7. Port Sóller
3. Caimari
8. Valldemossa
4. Alaró
9. Ses Trét
Valldemossa
10. Sa Gubia
Calvià
Inca
Artá
Aloró
5. Fraquel
Bunyola
11. Calviá
MALLORCA
Santa Maria
PALMA
Andratx
Santa Ponça
Vilafranca
Manacor
Puerto Cristo
Campos
del Puerto
Felantix
14. Cala
Magraner
12. Santa Ponça
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
13. Santanyi
P
P
Drive to Felantix and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left where
a signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the castle and park
there. To the right of the steps to the castle is a track going down, follow that
to the crag.
Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass them on
your walk down to the "main" crag.
Look up on these grades as suggestions, we haven't meet so many how has
climbed these routes so the grades are very subjective.
Direction
Santanyi

coronn.com, Mallorca TOPOS

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coronn.com. Frankenjura grade 5-7