VIper MARK II

VI
per MARK I
I
COLONIAL FLEET FIGHTER - 1/72 SCALE
The Viper Mark II was the second model of Viper introduced during the Cylon War. It became the main fighter craft for the Colonial
Fleet in the latter part of the war, quickly replacing the Viper Mark I. It proved to be faster and more maneuverable than the Mark I
with a sleeker design and more powerful engines. The Mark II gave the Colonial Fleet fighter supremacy, which eventually led to the
Colonial victory against the Cylons .
After the Cylon War, th e Viper Mark II stayed in service until it was eventually replaced by the Mark III. However, the Mark II is the
most remembered fighter craft of the Cylon War and holds the legendary status as the best fighter in the Colonial history.
Length: 8.4 meters (27.6 ft.); Width: 4.7 meters (15.5 ft.); Height: 2.7 meters (9 ft.)
Special thanks to Gabriel C. Koerner for the use of his images for this project (©Universal Studios).
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WORKING WITH RESIN
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Resin dust is harmful to your lungs so wear a protective mask when sanding. Wet sanding is recommended.
Before handling resin parts wash them in warm (not hot) soapy water and let them dry. This step is necessary to remove the
mold release agent used during casting.
Resin must be glued with "super glue" (cyano acrylate glue) or alternatively epoxy glue.
To glue parts together you may want to hold them in place and drip thin glue along the seam instead of trying to align the pieces
with glue on them.
If warping (distortions) occurs in some parts, use hot water or a hand held hair dryer to soften the area. Hold the piece in place
and cool it with cold water. You may have to repeat this process more than once to correct the shape.
Always use an appropriate primer before painting your resin model.
PREPARATION
1 Verify that all parts are present by referring to the picture below - Kit contains 33 parts :
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29 resin parts
1 clear canopy
1 stripe of self-adhesive gray tape (not shown)
1 square piece of styrene (not shown)
Color decals (partially shown)
2 Carefully cut the parts from their tree and remove flash, mold seams and imperfections .
3 Fill any apparent holes, seams and scratches with hobby putty. Thicker super glue also works well to fill small scratches.
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ASSEMBLY
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Refer to the original art (CGI’s ) in this document as a guide for parts and decals placement, as well as a color guide for painting
and finishing.
For ease of assembly it is recommended not to glue the following parts until after painting.
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Top engine and top engine cover
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Engine nozzles
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Pilot and seat
1 Glue the nose cone to the fuselage and the instruments panel inside the cockpit.
2 Glue the underside engine supports and side engine intakes to the fuselage. Try to leave a paper thin space between the
intakes and the fuselage (see last image on this page).
3 Glue the wings to the engines. You may need to sand the area where the wings attached to the engines to ensure perfect fit.
Use some clay (or putty) to temporarily hold the wings in place and let some thin super glue get into the joints (not the clay!).
The art on page 5 will help you determine the exact angle and position.
4 Install the cannon supports (steps 1 and 2) to each wing and the cannons to their supports (step 3), although it is recommended
to wait after painting to glue the cannons in place.
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5 Using a sharp hobby knife carefully cut the canopy directly on its molding form. Cut progressively and test fit often. Cut 1mm
width stripes from the silver self-adhesive tape supplied with the kit. Try to apply the tape mostly on each side, as the window
will appear too narrow on top if not done correctly. For a great shiny look, dip the canopy in Future Floor Wax two or three times ,
let the excess drip off and let dry for a couple of hours.
6 Cut the landing gear panels (doors) in the styrene piece supplied with the kit. Use the landing bay openings to define the
dimensions of each panel to cut. Scribe a thin line in the middle of the front panel to simulate two doors.
7 If not installing landing gear, install styrene panels in the closed position. Don’t forget to drill a hole if you are planning on
using a base to display your model.
If installing landing gear, carefully cut each of the three landing struts to correct fit. Temporarily fix the struts to the fuselage
and glue the landing pads. Use the images below to determine the length and angle of each strut. Cut the landing bay panels
from the styrene part supplied with the kit and glue them in the opened position. To enhance details use small rods of styrene
(or plastic) to make the swing arms on each strut. Once complete, remove the landing gear assembly for painting.
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8 Glue the rear fin to the top engine cover.
9 Apply a thin coat of primer and correct the imperfections that may still be visible. Apply another coat of and lightly sand with 400
(or more) grit sandpaper. Test fit every section one more time to ensure that everything will fit together properly once painted.
Since the Viper is mostly white, it is recommended to use a white primer for the fuselage.
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PAINTING & REFERENCES
80% Flat White (FS37875), 20% Light Gray (FS36622)
Insignia Red (FS31136)
Gunship Gray (FS36118)
Euro Gray (FS36081)
Viper art on this page is reduced to the same size as the kit (1/72 scale).
Latest detailed assembly instructions are available for download at www.geocities.com/adumas02/vipermark2.pdf
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DECALS
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Before applying decals give your model a coat or two of a gloss clear. Decals settle down much better on a glossy surface. A
good and cheap gloss finish is Future Floor Wax thinned with 40% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
1 Carefully cut out each individual decal using a sharp hobby knife or scissors.
2 Soak decal in a small cup of warm water for about 10 to 15 seconds and lay the decal on your work surface for about 15 to 30
seconds.
3 Pre-wet the surface (using a setting solution is recommended) then slide or push the decal off the paper backing into position
on your model - DO NOT peel or pull.
4 Smooth decal surface, expelling any air bubbles and blot dry with a cloth or Q-Tip.
5 Allow decals to dry overnight then apply a coat of flat or semi-gloss clear over the model to seal decals.
Corresponding pilot’s names, call-signs and serial numbers:
CPT LEE ADAMA
CPT LEE STRINGER
CPT RAYMOND LAI
CPT WILLIAM ADAMA
LT KARA THRACE
LT PETE HICHEY
"APOLLO"
"VALKYRIE"
"RAYGUN"
"HUSKER"
"STARBUCK"
"JOKER"
Cockpit details
2220NC
0223NC
8547NC
N7242C
7242NC
1104NC
Although decals for the above markings are already included with this
kit, custom decals can be ordered from JBOT at www.jbot.ca
FINISHING
1 To enhance appearance apply a black or gray wash. Typically, mix 4 parts of thinner with 1 part of paint.
2 Glue the remaining parts (or sub-assemblies ) together. DO NOT use s uper glue to fix the canopy as it might become clouded.
3 You can enhance the weathering even further by applying pastels in some areas like nozzles, thrusters , canons and intakes.
Artist’s oils are also very useful to simulate damage and engine abuse.
4 Apply a coat or two of semi gloss clear to seal the final finish. Don’t forget to mask the canopy firs t to preserve its glossy finish.
Special thanks to Alfred Wong for having built the test kit pictured above.
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