the ta stemakers - Fashion Group International
Transcription
the ta stemakers - Fashion Group International
. OCTOBER 2015 The Tastemakers: Rose Marie Bravo and Pamela Baxter 3 Just Work It Activewear, Out of the Gym and into the Boardroom 4 The New Gifting Experience NYNOW show at New York’s Javits Center 5 In Memoriam Elaine Gold Arnold Scaasi Virginia Borland 6 Upcoming Events 7 New Members List THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE Chair Katie Kretschmer Editor / Contributing Writer Writers / Editors Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer Graphic Design Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics Photography Maryanne Grisz Nancy Jeffries Two doyennes of the fashion and beauty industries captured the attention of a sold-out Tastemakers event presented by The Fashion Group International on July 15th at the 21 Club in New York City. Margaret Hayes, President of FGI, introduced retail and brand consultant Rose Marie Bravo, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue and vice chairman and former CEO of Burberry, and Pamela Baxter, president and CEO of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics and Christian Dior Couture, as two women with highly successful career histories. Both executives shared their experiences in beauty and fashion, while Bravo served as interviewer. A Journey From a South Dakota Ranch Bravo queried Baxter about her earliest influences and the experiences that drove her professional path, asking, “From a ranch in South Dakota to Paris, France, and New York, what influences were most important along the way?” Baxter, whose father was a rancher in Mobridge, South Dakota, recalled that from an early age she knew she had a “passion for fashion.” She said, “I worked on the ranch to earn money for clothes, and at the age of 12, when I was reading an issue of Vogue, I spotted a pair of Galo shoes and ordered them, C.O.D.” She recalled how her father had her work on the ranch to pay for those shoes. But that small town of 5,000 people is where her passion began, and where she learned an important lesson from her family: “Your integrity and your reputation are your most prized possessions.” Hayes acknowledged event sponsors LVMH, Dior and Arcade Beauty for making the Tastemaker’s presentation possible, and said she had worked with Bravo many years prior. She noted her storied accomplishments, among them her role as CEO of Burberry and an appointment as a Commander of the British Empire. Baxter, Hayes said, had held positions at The Estée Lauder Companies, where she was responsible for such brands as Prescriptives and Crème de la Mer. Notable guests in attendance included Linda Fargo, senior vice president at Bergdorf Goodman; Annette Green, former president of The Fragrance Foundation; and Hervé Bichon, president, North America, of Arcade Beauty. Baxter sold the car her mother had given her after college and headed for her first job in New York City, at Charles of the Ritz, where she became a makeup artist and later a trainer. “The cosmetics training was excellent. The beauty business is intense and covers everything involved in fashion. You’ve got ‘clientelling,’ where you learn to get the customers to keep coming back; merchandising; and retail and 1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 The Tastemakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . From left: Pamela Baxter, Margaret Hayes and Rose Marie Bravo Marylou Luther and Rose Marie Bravo Rose Marie Bravo with Annette Green development,” said Baxter. She noted similarities between the fashion and beauty industries, and acknowledged the role of the beauty advisor and merchandising in both areas. Reflecting on her experience with Jo Malone and Prescriptives, she said, “If I was going to stay in beauty, I was super happy at The Lauder Companies.” Baxter, however, wanted to transition to a fashion brand and recalled Leonard Lauder’s understanding of her decision when she left his employ. “Young lady, you have no idea what you’re getting into. You will need someone to watch your back. You can take one person with you when you leave,” Baxter recalled him saying to her. She selected Terry Darland, then vice president of Prescriptives. Bravo said Baxter’s experience with brand-building was key in developing the Dior relationship and asked what Baxter thought of the notion of continuous reinvention. “If you take the Dior brand and look at the advertising for beauty and fashion, you can see they were not on the same page. The fashion brand was licensing everything from sheets to towels. Beauty and fashion were not speaking to each other. There were about 500 licenses diluting the brand, which Arnault stopped, as this was confusing customers,” said Baxter. “In 1995, when Lauder bought La Mer, it took four years to formulate around what was basically a jar of cream. But if the DNA is strong enough, it will grow. People are still telling the story of Max Huber, the scientist who was burned in a lab, and how the marine-based ingredients, combined in the right formula, helped heal his burns and ultimately became La Mer,” said Baxter. Clearly, a brand with a resonant story remains vital. “Fashion didn’t believe that beauty had relatable skills,” noted Baxter. When she interviewed with Dior and listened to Bernard Arnault’s vision for the Dior beauty brand, she realized the brand was disconnected from the fashion side of the business at that time, and believed she could meld her beauty experience with the brand. She came in on the beauty side in 2004 and in 2007 “got the keys to the fashion kingdom,” having successfully bridged what some believed was a gap between beauty and fashion. Unique Brand DNA Bravo noted the differences between working for a French company and working for an American company. “The French are very analytical. They like to debate and they place a great emphasis on education. They don’t make decisions quickly. The American entrepreneurial spirit is different. They take more risks,” said Bravo. Working for Dior and living in France, Baxter had to adapt to a different way of doing business. 2 She described how Dior went to logoed handbags and then decided to return to the history and heritage of the brand. “Now we’re taking it back to where the house was originally. Know what your brand DNA is,” she said. She credits Raf Simons for turning the Dior house around after John Galliano’s departure, and acknowledged the heart he has shown for the brand. Bravo noted the importance of a robust brand DNA, adding, “We need the creative juice that stays connected to the brand DNA, but still moves forward,” she said. When asked what it takes and how long it takes for a brand to develop, Bravo noted that it could be three years before you get a taste of what it’s going to be like, then an additional five to see its growth, and another five to 15 years to see the breadth of a brand. “Now, with the Internet, it’s changed. The enabler of digital has sped everything up, but making the right decisions and filling the need are still paramount,” said Bravo. Baxter cited Fresh as an example of a brand that came into its own. “Fresh, for example, took 25 years to arrive at its current position. We reengineered it into skin care and it’s a good fit. Brands also have to be global, so that’s something to keep in mind,” offered Baxter. When asked by an audience member how Baxter, who is a grandmother, juggled her work and personal life, Baxter replied, “I just did it. I didn’t think about it. You just figure it out. Mothers are always more organized because they have to be.” — Nancy Jeffries Contributing Writer, bnjcasa@aol.com From left: Pamela Baxter and Rose Marie Bravo Just Work It: Activewear, Out of the Gym and Into The Boardroom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W h a t A r e Y o u W e a r i n g To d a y ? From left: Dustin Jones, Dwane Morgan, Marshal Cohen & Grant Barth Ask anyone you know and the answer will probably surprise you. Gone are the prescribed formulas of dress: In many cases a new uniform has emerged. Casualization has taken hold of us all and a fit state of mind is the new standard. On July 29th, the Fashion Group International addressed this topic at an event entitled “Just Work It: Activewear, Out of the Gym and into The Boardroom.” TrimLab, the fashion/trim showroom and high-tech product-development center, played host to the sold-out event. After welcoming remarks, chief industry analyst of the NPD Group Marshal Cohen took center stage to introduce the night’s agenda. He started by explaining how the activewear market is not new news, but huge news. Every day at every price, it is the lifestyle choice of today’s consumers. Knowing this, the industry must now turn its attention to growing and maintaining the business while always being on the lookout for new opportunities. The category has grown from its original function as workout or sports gear to a global phenomenon. From simple leggings, bike shorts and sweaters, the industry has casualized menswear and encroached on women’s career wear. Everyone wants a piece of the pie. The active bottoms business has grown 16 percent this year and the tops business, a healthy 19 percent. Demographics have shown that each category appeals to a diverse customer base, thus contributing to its overall growth. Cohen then introduced the panel, which included Grant Barth, SVP/CMO, Levi Strauss & Co., Dustin Jones, SVP Fashion Office, leased and new business development, Macy’s Inc., and Dwane Morgan, Director of Consumer Insights, Under Armour. The first question concerned the emergence of the activewear trend. Barth attributed it to the period when sportswear came off of the field and onto the streets. Jones mentioned that women started wearing activewear while playing sports in high school, switching to team gear in college and eventually turning to yoga wear as young career women. Comfort and stretch became a necessity as they moved from Nike (footwear) to Lululemon (luxury). Morgan felt it all started with footwear. This casual lifestyle provided a versatility that redefined activewear. Jones views this early success as just the beginning as shoes and tops fueled the growth of other businesses. Yoga pants and basketball shorts encouraged fashion as an important part of an active lifestyle. The explosive category of active outerwear came out of this movement. Morgan mentioned that active inspires the business-casual that we see in the workplace today. Grant added that there is a lot of opportunity in providing a great product. Looking good while being comfortable is responsible for the category’s growth. Although all agreed about future opportunity, Jones issued a word of caution: When a category is hot, everyone jumps in the pool. Lines must be authentic and some celebrity-named brands are doomed to failure as the product doesn’t stand up to the hype. Cohen built on this and asked what activewear can learn from other categories. Garth stressed that brands must remain true to their core customer and base assortments on their needs. In the case of denim, although stretch is new, there is a customer out there that still prefers Levi’s rigid denim styles. Morgan said that listening to customers is key in providing them with the technology and properties they value. Maintaining the brand’s authenticity strengthens its value to consumers. Turning to new technology and price, the question of differentiating product in a sea of sameness was introduced. Jones said knowing your customer’s view towards price, exclusivity and designer is important. Learning through experience, retailers must learn how the customer buys product. They are then able to meet the competition across the market. A favored brand often is more important to the customer than price. He also talked about the value of consolidating product in a destination location within a store. Morgan felt that this brand loyalty will be fostered once they get the customer into their product. By understanding their story, shoppers will understand the price/value equation. Educating them to what they are buying is a successful tool for his brand. Their partnership with professional basketball player Stephen Curry allows the brand to tell the story of someone who beat the odds and encourages a positive connection with their brand. Grant, too, endorsed the storytelling aspect as a tool to teach his customer about the benefits of the product. What about activewear’s appeal to both active and inactive consumers? Morgan mentioned how both of these groups relate to his global product. Under Armour aspires to be a strong brand and doesn’t intimidate any consumer. Jones explained that the casual/comfort factor of activewear has resulted in huge growth in the plus-size department. Macy’s has added sizes in double- and triple-extra large to accommodate this customer. Business in packable down outerwear has seen the fastest growth in this area. Grant noted that Levi’s has recently launched a more athletic-fit style to accommodate customer needs. Cohen then asked the panel which other brand or industry would help grow their brand. Morgan said that Under Armour’s global customer is interested in getting not only more fit but healthier. They have recently partnered with Connected Fitness, Map My Fitness and My Fitness Goal to help in this quest. Cohen added that the young consumer of today is concerned with long-term health via good eating, living and dress. Jones told how Macy’s looks at brand data via a global forecasting 3 CONTINUED ON PAGE 4 Just Work It: . . . Experience . . . . . The New Gifting .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. .. .. . . . . .. . . . . .. .. .. .. .. . team who determines where the competition is going. They look towards Instagram to see what the fitness icons and fashion stars are wearing in order to translate this news to their consumer. Grant told of Levi’s projected link-up with Google in a program called Project Jacquard, which will provide information about the future of the category. An audience member posed a question regarding brick-and-mortar versus on-line business. Morgan said Under Armour, as a niche brand, is just building their on-line business. Jones felt that these businesses are different. The on-line customer is younger while older customers view brick-and-mortar stores as their activewear apparel destination. Grant explained that Levi’s on-line presence is growing faster as it enables the company to showcase a wider assortment. Cohen asked the panel to express in one word the driving factor in the growth of the category. Grant offered motivation. Jones added comfort. Morgan suggested technology. Talk shifted to focus on the denim category. Activewear bottoms are selling one-to-one with denim. Garth said that denim is a way of life and that business will grow with the introduction of new varieties of natural fibers and fits. This is more challenging than creating new versions of Lycra used in activewear bottoms. Jones said both businesses are strong and serve different purposes. Morgan agreed and stressed the performance aspect. All agreed denim will continue to be influenced by the runway, heritage and the street. The program ended with a forecast for the classification. Grant anticipated a bright future with many opportunities for growth. Jones stressed the importance of building strong connections with consumers. Morgan voted for keeping up with trends and remaining authentic. Cohen summed up the discussion with key words to remember in regards to the category: lifestyle, social media, casual, fit, comfort, innovation, technology, motivation and opportunity. The audience filtered out into the hot, steamy New York night wishing that they were wearing comfy yoga pants, Ts and bike shorts, for even fashionistas like to be comfortable while looking chic. –– Carolyn Moss Contributing Writer, carolynkmoss@gmail.com 4 From left: Dipali Patwa,Tori Mellott, Michael Aram and Samia Grand-Pierre During the last holiday season, more than $620 billion was spent on gifts—a statistic that gives us some idea what a big deal the gift market is. And on that note, a Fashion Group Frontliner event, “The New Gifting Experience” was staged, in conjunction with the NYNOW show at New York’s Javits Center on August 18th. Tori Mellott, a spritely young woman who serves as senior design and market editor of Traditional Home magazine, the generous sponsor of the event, moderated a panel discussion focused on the artisanal influences, storytelling, personalization and presentation that make gifts irresistible to today’s uberchoosy consumers. A pretty accurate idea of how the conversation went can be gleaned from the backstories of the panelists. Michael Aram, founder and creative director of his namesake company, is a multiskilled painter and designer who applies age-old hand-working and craft traditions to objects inspired by nature, mythology and storytelling. Michael’s work appeals to those who, he noted, are searching for meaning and an experiential aspect in handmade things that reflect humanity. Dipali Patwa is the founder and CEO of Masala Baby, a Brooklyn-based go-to for infant, toddler and kids’ clothes inspired by and reflective of all things Indian: Bollywood movies, flowers, spices and the colors of the frenzied bazaars. Also chief creative officer of Mela Artisans, Patwa travels to the most isolated—and perilous—parts of Pakistan in an effort to revive dying artisan groups with work created to provide a sustainable chain of employment. At the same time, she hopes that a growing appetite for hand-crafted, artisanal, often one-of-a-kind, pieces will inspire the young people, who’ve opted for the office and factory jobs they and their parents think will lead to a better life, to return to their communities. In a world that’s so “mass made,” she said, it’s essential to provide an experience. Packaging and presentation must be special and, because customers want to know where the products come from and who made them, she provides little story cards that tell consumers about the artists and how their pieces were made. Samia Grand-Pierre, a seasoned visual merchandiser and branding consultant, manages the U.S. flagship location of Other Criteria, a fine art publishing and gallery concept founded by British artist Damien Hirst. For those who haven’t been (but should certainly go), the gallery works with seasoned and emerging artists who produce paintings, sculpture, clothing, jewelry…all kinds of original and special things for, well, this guy, who reviewed the SoHo opening of the gallery and wrote, “I bought some art the other day…just something beautiful, something I had an emotional response to…that I perceived as having value independent of its function or cost of production.” The focus, Grand-Pierre, noted, is to get people to the gallery, to see and touch. Aram weighed in saying that a gallery is like a home, a gallery where people can come in for a $20,000 sculpture or a pen for five bucks. The aesthetic is the same: “Art meets mart.” “We’re all selling product,” said Patwa, “but it’s the experience that brings them in.” Aram, who works in his craft-based design studio in India, side by side with his cadre of 240 artisans, said that from his perspective, in order for things to feel authentic, everything must come from within and noted that customers for his pieces look for limited editions or one-of-a-kind items. Mellott interjected with the point that while the conversation had been pretty high-brow, the average consumer actually spends about $50 to $100 on a gift, and further, that not all retailers can stock one-of-a-kind, handmade items; they have to carry mass-made items as well. How then is the gift made special? A two-year-old’s drawing makes a mass-produced frame special, said GrandPierre. Aram’s “twig” cutlery in plastic and melamine plates and paper napkins raise the bar on a picnic; a bottle of ordinary table wine takes on a new luster when accompanied by a handmade coaster. The idea is that it can be priceless or 99 cents, make it the best you possibly can. The event closed with a round of applause for the chair of the special events committee, Amy Rosi and event co-chairs Jill Esterman and Ilene Shaw. –– Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant, Wendy7d@aol.com In Memoriam: Elaine Gold Elaine Gold Wildly overused, some would say, is the word icon. But there are certain things and certain people who truly are. Elaine Gold was one. Welcomed into Fashion Group in 1967, Elaine’s sponsors (at the time, all potential members had to be sponsored by members of at least five years standing) were some of the triple-A-listed industry professionals of the day. Among them were Rea Lubar, the fashion publicity powerhouse of the time whose client list included Lord & Taylor, Bonwit Teller, Perry Ellis and Hermès to name a few; Catherine di Montezemolo, fashion editor of Vogue and later, for 12 years, senior vice president and fashion director at Lord & Taylor; and one Vera Newmann. Remember Vera scarves—in all their intricate prints and extravagant color—that we collected and wore with such grace and élan with everything? That Vera. Elaine Gold’s employer at the time. After 19 years with Vera, Elaine went on to work with several companies, ultimately founding her namesake company, Elaine Gold Enterprises where, as the “go-to lady for all things scarves” she claimed the U.S. Postal Service and the Metropolitan Museum of Art among her many clients. Passionate about and committed to her industry, education and giving back, Elaine was a charter member of the Accessories Council, served on the Advisory Board of LIM College and the boards of Shanker College in Israel and Chabad’s Children of Chernobyl, making regular trips to that Tel Aviv school. Elaine Gold passed away on August 30th. Margaret Hayes, who throughout her long career in retail and later as president of Fashion Group, knew and loved Elaine Gold. “She was truly a pioneer, a visionary and an innovator,” she said. “Aside from her profound influence on the accessory industry, Elaine was just so compassionate and so generous; a dear and loyal friend; brilliant and feisty, with a wicked sense of humor. She will be in my heart forever.” In Memoriam: Arnold Scaasi In Memoriam: Virginia Borland Arnold Scaasi Virginia Borland In 1997, when Fashion Group opened the ranks to male members, Arnold Scaasi was the first to sign up, and he remained a member until his death on August 4. In reflecting on a long-time FGI member who has recently left us, it gives us pause to think about times gone by and the way we were. And so, in saying farewell to Virginia Stockfish Borland, we thought about this: The year that Virginia joined the ranks of FGI, she was a fashion coordinator with Cunningham & Walsh, long gone, but, at the time, one of Madison Avenue’s top-tier agencies. Very much of the Mad Men era, “It’s not nice to fool Mother Nature” and “Let your fingers do the walking” are two of the highly memorable lines that came out of the agency’s creative pool. And long before 212 and 646, our telephone numbers were listed as Murray Hill 3, Circle 7, Pennsylvania 6 and, as immortalized in the movie of the same name, Butterfield 8. FGI dues were $30 a year. Eleanor McMillen was the executive director. We were headquartered at 9 Rockefeller Plaza. The year was 1961. Students of fashion would know this, but for those who don’t, Montreal (his native city) was the locale of Scaasi’s early design education, but the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne was where he learned the skills that served him so well—first as an apprentice at the House of Paquin and later during his tenure with the very great American designer Charles James. Though flamboyant, over-the-top, never-enough embellishment was his trademark, his label was found in the White House closets of the proper and sedate; First Ladies Mamie Eisenhower, Barbara Bush, Laura Bush and Hillary Clinton all wore Scaasi. And lots of Scaasis found their way into the Hollywood dressing rooms of the not-soproper-and-sedate: Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford, Lauren Bacall and perhaps most notably, or infamously—depending on your point of view—Barbra Streisand, a lot of whom was seen through the Scaasi-designed transparent blouse-and-pants outfit she wore to collect her Oscar for Funny Girl. “To me,” said Margaret Hayes, president of Fashion Group, “Arnold Scaasi was a rare designer whose clothes are a true mirror of his personality: joyful, colorful, spirited and exuberant; he made women look and feel beautiful and feminine. I knew Arnold for over 30 years, first during the course of my career at Saks Fifth Avenue and then at Fashion Group where, 18 years ago, when we first opened the membership to men, Arnold was the very first to sign on. He was loyal and true; a person we loved and a designer we admired. He will be greatly missed by all of us at Fashion Group, by me, personally, and by all whose lives he touched in such a lovely and lasting way.” In September of 1961, Virginia assumed a role in merchandising and product development with the America Viscose Corporation. Prior to her tenure at C&W, Virginia had spent four years in fashion promotion at Grey Advertising; a year handling beauty and fashion publicity for the Association of American Soap & Glycerine Manufacturers, Inc., and four years spearheading beauty and fashion publicity and promotion with J. Walter Thompson. Virginia Borland’s knowledge about fibers and fabrics was extensive. For years, she covered Première Vision, her writing brilliant, engaging, a pleasure to read. (For those not totally familiar with the textile markets, Première Vision is the world’s leading fabric show and offers seasonal fashion direction 18 months in advance.) All those who knew her remember that never, ever was there a Fashion Group member more dedicated, more loyal, more willing to pitch in than Virginia Borland. –– Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant, Wendy7d@aol.com “I have lost a beloved colleague and dear friend. Elaine’s presence and voice will be great missed,” said Accessories Council president Karen Giberson. And so say we all. 5 Calendar of Events Thursday, October 22 Night of Stars / “The Revolutionaries” Individuals of outstanding accomplishments in the fashion, beauty, interior design, business, sustainability and humanitarian communities to be honored at a red-carpet, black-tie gala and awards ceremony. Cipriani 55 Wall Street Cocktails: 6:15 p.m. Dinner and Awards Ceremony: 7:30 p.m. • Friday, October 30 Deadline to Nominate your Rising Star! Registration closes today for nominations for the 19th annual Rising Stars Awards recognizing emerging talent in the fashion and design industries. Contact FGI for nomination form 212.302.5511. • Tuesday, November 3 “The Futurists” A Frontliner panel discussion focusing on what to expect and how to adapt to a future impacted by cultural shifts, societal changes, lifestyle choices, technology and volatility in the global economy. Fashion Group Headquarters 8 West 40th Street, 7th Floor Reception: 5:30 p.m. – 6:15 p.m. Program: 6:15 p.m. –7:00 p.m. • Wednesday, November 11 Trend Presentation Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collections from the runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris. The Hearst Tower / 300 West 57th Street Showing at noon, followed by panel discussion; Encore presentations at 3:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. For more information and to purchase tickets and/or tables Visit www.fgi.org or call 212.302.5511 THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL New York Nana Asare-Boadu* Una Carroll Baker Emma Berg Jim Berkrot Krista Blair Malan Breton Dede Brown Tina Canale Cithlally Castille Khristine Catacutan Marie Charensol Amy Cheung Alexandre Choueiri Andrew Comley Melissa Wilhelmina Cooper Elaine D’Farley Kathie De Chirico Jennyvi Dizon Leila Dubus Cliodna Egan Paul Eusebio Jill Fairchild Carly-Ann Fergus* Debra A. 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