Route 11 - Valencia Region

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To the sea through four valleys full of history
Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
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Barrio de Fraga
Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Bárbara
Castle: Castillo de Cocentaina
Mount: Sierra de La Almudaina
Tower: Torre árabe de Almudaina
Hermitage: Ermita del Santo Cristo de
Planes
Reservoir: Embalse de Beniarrés
Pool: Poza de La Encantada
Mount: Collado de Benisili
Castle: Castillo de Benisili
Mount: Serra Foradada
Rock: Penya Forada
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L´Atzuvieta
Cave: Cova del Rull
Pla de Petracos
Ruins: Ruinas Ermita de Petracos
Mount: Collado de Garga
Ravine: Escalinatas hacia El Barranc de
l´Infern
Fleix
Cave: Cova de Les Calaveres
Mount: Muntanya Gran
Mount: Montgó
Castle: Castell de Dénia
Beach: Playa de Les Marines
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Beach: Playa de Les Bovetes
Beach: Playa de Les Rotes
Cape: Cabo de Sant Antoni
Cave: Cova de l´Aigua
Settlements: Poblados íberos en El Pico del
Águila
30 • Cave: Cova Tallada
31 • Cave: Cala del Pope
32 • Tower: Torre Vigía Cap d´Or
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Natural landscapes transformed
into cultural landscapes
The capital of the Comtat region, Cocentaina, offers
This route will take us through the interior of the
northern part of Alicante, on a journey to the sea. We will
visit the Comtat region, stetting out from its capital
Cocentaina, and we will head for the interior of Marina
Alta. On this route we will discover towns full of history
in which the Arabs, and later the Moors left an indelible
cultural legacy, in spite of the passing of the centuries.
We will see how, although they are territories with
rugged mountainous terrain, throughout history humans
have made use of the different valleys to make their
settlements, the river terraces for cultivation, and have
moulded the sides of mountains to make terraces where
olive, almond and cherry trees grow. In this way we will
make our way through four valleys full of history and
spectacular natural spots: Vall de Gallinera, Vall d’Alcalà,
Vall de Laguar and Vall d’Ebo, a marvellous walk through
the little known Alicante mountains will take us
eastwards towards the well populated coast. We will
arrive at Dénia and we will stop at the Montgó nature
park to revel in its spectacular mountain formation close
to the sea, crossing it and going from there as far as the
coastal town of Xàbia. We will then pass some of the
best conserved beaches, with the clearest waters in all
numerous places that should be visited. In the historic
centre is is essential to take a look around the Fraga
neighbourhoods, where the former Jewish quarter was
established, the Vila Vella, a former Christian quarter,
and the Raval, the old Moorish quarter. In the Vila Vella
we ought to visit the Count’s Palace, a GothicRenaissance civil building declared a Place of Cultural
Interest. It was built by Roger de Lauria the feudal lord
of the area in the second half of the 13th century, and
altered and extended in the mid-15th century giving it
the appearance we see today. On the outskirts of
Cocentaina it is a good idea to visit the Santa Bárbara
hermitage, situated on a small hill and in a most
agreeable natural setting. In its surroundings there is a
recreational and leisure area. With the arrival of the cold
weather towards the end of October and beginning of
November, this town celebrates the Fira de Tots els
Sants, the oldest in Spain (created in 1346), and which
attracts over 650,000 people every year. Leaving
Cocentaina, looking back, we will see how on top of the
mountain that dominates the town Cocentaina castle is
situated, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. We now
enter the Comtat region, seeking a unique landscape
fruit of the Moorish legacy and their way of shaping the
steep terrain. We find irrigated and unirrigated crops,
occupying river banks and ravines and scaling
seemingly impossible slopes, a natural landscape
transformed by our ancestors into a cultural landscape.
the Region of Valencia and will finish our route at
In it our attention is drawn to the fact that agriculture
another nature park, the emblematic Peñón d’Ifach. This
route is one of the longest proposals in this guide book
and will enable us to get to know incredibly varied spots,
has turned the mountainsides into a work of
ethnological art. The terraces teach a lesson in the
capacity to survive, in some cases of a solitary olive tree,
something which speaks for itself of the enormous
natural wealth of the north of Alicante province.
with dry-stone walls for the crop. The former
inhabitants built the walls with dry stones, filled the
hollow with fertile earth, dug the hole, planted the tree
Calpe, Penyal d’Ifac 38° 38' 04" N 0° 4' 68" E
and watered it. All this work to plant one single tree.
The first town we will visit is Benillup which we reach
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Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
after crossing the river Serpis having walked along the
This place is one of the most picturesque in the region.
road to Patot and taking the CV-710. We find it situated
on a good sized hill in the foothills of the impressive
Almudaina sierra. It is a simple, pretty town with around
Its old centre sits on the slopes of a small mound
presided over by the ruins of what was an important
Arab castle. Once again we find narrow stepped streets
100 inhabitants who attest to the peacefulness reigning
here. We continue from Benillup as far as Almudaina, at
the foot of the sierra which bears the same name. The
terraces of almond and cherry trees make way for us
until we find ourselves in this municipality where the
Arab tower of the Almohad era stands out and has
been declared a Place of Cultural Interest. In Almudaina
we stroll around the streets which, as in all the towns in
the region, have notably Arab influences. The next place
we pass through will be Benalfaquí, an outlying district
of Planes. Benalfaquí is an aesthetic miracle in these
times at the beginning of the new millennium, with an
urban layout perfectly integrated into the rural
environment. Also spectacular is the winding route of
the road that dives into the ravine on the way to Planes.
and, in the surroundings of the town, the hermitage of
Santo Cristo de Planes, which is reached by a
zigzagging Way of the Cross. After Planes, our route to
Vall de la Gallinera takes the CV-700, which we will leave
when we get to the Barranco de la Encantada [ravine of
the enchanted girl]. A dirt track goes down bordering
the ravine among well conserved riverbank vegetation.
Shortly after starting the descent we discover on our
right a really beautiful pool with transparent waters. It is
not the only one we shall find, as in this narrow
passageway the water traces between the mountains,
we will discover pools, waterfalls and dense riverbank
vegetation that make this one of the most beautiful
places in the Region of Valencia. We reach the Poza de
la Encantada [deep pool of the enchanted girl] which
gives the ravine its name, and an old legend, dating
back to the centuries of Arab domination. The legend
says that when the Moors received the expulsion order,
they hid their valuables in a cave, hoping to recover
them all when they returned to this land where they
were born and had lived. That fortune, made up of
jewels and coins and all kinds of valuable objects, was
placed under the protection of an enchanted damsel,
the legend assuring that once every hundred years the
beautiful young girl appears walking among the crags
of the ravine. The legend states that whoever meets her
will discover all the hidden treasures.
Cocentaina 38º 44' 58'' N 0º 26'46 E
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the sun, their compact urban layouts in which the
streets provide warmth in winter and freshness in
summer, the same as the houses with their walls of
stone, mud and wood. The river Gallinera runs the
Vall de Gallinera 38° 49' 6.46" N 0° 16' 34.64" W
Gallinera valley, towns built with
Moorish lucidity
From the Barranco de la Encantada we reach the Benisili
hill, gateway to the Gallinera valley already within the
Marina Alta region. At this point we have recourse to
the words of the Valencian botanist Cavanilles: “its soil is
uneven and ravined, but so populated by small plots, so
well planted with trees and made use of, that its sight is a
delight, now it is examined part by part, now it is seen from
the heights. From the foot almost to the summit of the
mountains fields are seen in an amphitheatre, and in them
the lovely confusion that results from the variety of trees
and their produce. There are carob trees, Holm oaks,
pomegranate, white mulberry, pines, walnut, olive and
cherry trees.”
Cavanillas wrote that text at the end of the 18th century
and, surprisingly, it remains a faithful reflection of what
we find today in this place. A valley of Moors, with eight
hamlets that constitute a single municipality, and which
extends in a northwest-southeast direction, bordered
on the northern side by the Almirant sierra and Serra
Albureca and, on the southern side, by Serra Foradada
and Les Llomes del Xap. As soon as we enter the
length of the valley, and the unirrigated crops like the
cherries, almonds and olives give the valley a
spectacular colourfulness and vitality. After having
passed through each and every one these hamlets, we
head now for the Vall d’Alcalá by way of the Serra
Foradada. There we will find the Iberian settlement of
Xarpolar where we can observe the remains of a double
enclosure of walls encircling and defending the
settlement, finding more stone accumulated in the
more easily accessed parts with the intention of
increasing the protection. We also find the emblematic
Peña Foradá, a natural hole in the rock, which is the
most representative part of the landscape in the
Gallinera valley. The greatest charm this rock conceals is
the unique astronomical phenomenon which occurs
twice a year. On 4th October and 9th March the light
from the sun passes through the hole of the Foradá and
illuminates the remains of the 17th century former
Franciscan convent. We now leave the Gallinera valley
and enter the Vall d’Alcalá.
Vall d’Alcalà, towns with a deeply
rooted Arabic cultural heritage
Vall d’Alcalá is the true cultural and sentimental, also
military, heart of the Moorish settlement in the
Gallinera valley from the Benisili pass we come upon
mountains of La Marina Alta. Vall d’Alcalà was made up,
in former times, of seven hamlets, named Alcalà de la
the Alcalá (or Benisili) castle declared a Place of Cultural
Interest that dominates this natural pass. The towns we
will visit in the Gallinera valley are: Benirrama, Benialí,
Jovada, Beniaia, Criola, Benialí, Benixarco, La Roca and La
Adsubia. Of these seven only two remain: Alcalà de la
Jovada and Beniaia: hamlets heirs to an Arab culture
Benitaia, Benisiva, La Carroja, Alpatró, Llombai and
Benisili. They are all small urban centres that form one
single municipality and which are surprisingly simple
deeply rooted in this land that Christianity tried,
without success, to erase from our memory. They
and peaceful. It is a perfect situation near to the springs
and waterspouts, their orientation making the most of
certainly had a difficult task in Las Marinas where, under
the post-conversion name of Moors, the Arabs shaped
these harmonious landscapes, between the reconquest
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Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
of the 13th century and their definitive expulsion from
Spain at the beginning of the 17th. Before reaching the
Vall d’Alcalà we will discover on our left the old Moorish
village of L’Atzuvieta: without a doubt the best
The Vall d'Alcalà 38º 47' 66'' N 0º 15'14 E
preserved in the area. Having reached Vall d’Alcalà, we
take a look at the water feature on the Plaza Mayor,
which shows, as the waterspout, the mouth of the AlAzraq sphinx. Vall d’Alcalà was important as capital of
the feudal lands of the Arab leader Al-Azraq, of the blue
eyes, who for years fought Jaime I of Aragon, who
finally managed to banish him after getting him to sign
a pact of capitulation in 1275. It goes without saying
that the complicated topography and the isolation in
mediaeval times which still persists in these inland
valleys of La Marina, were the factors that enabled this
struggle and resistance to last for such a long time.
From Vall d’Alcalà on the CV-712 we head for Vall d’Ebo.
Before reaching the municipality, two kilometres from it,
on the left, we find the Rull cave, discovered by Tio Rull
in 1919, and which has allowed visitors since 1995. This
cave has interesting stalactite and stalagmite
formations. The urban centre of Vall d’Ebo is situated on
a fertile plain surrounded by the Ebo river. The baroque
church shows us the evolution of the village at the
hands of colonials from Mallorca. Another spot to visit is
the Ethnological Museum which is found in the town.
Within its boundary, and in the Moorish era, there was a
series of hamlets of which only names and some lesser
remains are left now: Benicais, Serra, Benisuai, Millans,
Cairola, Benesseit and La Solana. We now head for the
Pla de Petrarcos along a farm track between the Sireret
and Carrasca sierras. We pass uncommonly large rocks
and lives until total disaster occurred at the Pla de
Petracos. Continuing through the ravine we, too, come
to the Pla de Petracos, a plain forming a beautiful spot
and where we find a surprising group of rock paintings
of great dimensions and great singularity which their
discoverers dubbed ‘Macro-schematic Art’. A small
footpath leads without any problems to the eight
overhangs of which five present perfectly visible
painted motifs. The rock paintings of Pla de Petracos
were only discovered in 1980 by members of the
Centre d’Estudis Contestans, from Cocentaina. At the
time when they were drawn the Pla de Petracos must
have been a sanctuary. The depiction of the praying
figure stands out for its size and central position. In
front of this, a few metres from the rocky wall, another
rock juts out of the ground, which might be related to
the significance of the pictorial representations. In
another overhang, situated to the right of the
previously mentioned group, the figure of an injured
deer was discovered, which formed part of a hunting
scene of which only the quarry has been preserved.
Together with the figures depicted as ‘praying’ (which
are holding their arms stretched up, and are sometimes
in pairs or groups), there are many geometric motifs,
amongst which the ‘snake-shaped’ stand out, formed by
thick bands twisting upwards. At the same time as the
and cliff faces rising up vertically like stone giants
agricultural cycle is represented as sacred, the female
leading us to the entrance of the ravine. We make our
way through the Malafí ravine, with its limestone walls,
realizing that this place has remained unaltered by
depictions link woman with fertility. Some animals
represent other concrete values, the bull constituting
the most figurative image of fertility. On the head of the
human action. The name of this ravine evokes the event
that marked the history of this entire region: the
expulsion of the Moors in 1609. All the way through
bull, seen from the front, the eyes and horns stand out.
At the side of the bull a woman is seen wearing a long
skirt, although the head is not preserved. The paintings
their flight through the Malafí [‘bad end’] ravine, the
Moors who entered there were slowly losing battles
were declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1998.
Continuing on our route, on our left we pass the ruins
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of the Petracos hermitage, shortly before reaching the
terraces in impossible places, abundant caves, and
CV-720. When we get to it we head towards
Benigembla, although shortly, an asphalted mountain
track will take us up to the summit of the Collado de
cavities of overwhelming proportions and, at the same
time, welcoming, and exuberant vegetation in the
shadiest parts. The Barranc de l’Infern joins the Vall
Garga, on the western edge of the Vall de Laguar.
d’Ebo with the Vall de Laguar, so we could also enter
the ravine from the Vall d’Ebo. Whichever way we enter,
wherever we go we will encounter a spectacular ravine
which the Girona river has formed, throughout the
history of the land, an intricate passage between
enormous rocks of brilliant grey. From the Vall de
Laguer, the Vall d’Ebo way through the Barranc de
l’Infern, it is necessary to have knowledge and
equipment for rock climbing, therefore, those who are
not experts should start their route from the Vall d’Ebo,
or from the Vall de Laguer heading in the opposite
direction, downriver. In this case we will find the
abandoned Isbert dam.
The Barranc de l’Infern footpath, for its peculiar
characteristics, state of conservation, fauna and variety
of flora is classified by the Valencian Mountain Climbing
Federation as the ‘cathedral of footpaths’. We leave the
Vall de Laguer, final outpost of the Valencian Moors’
resistance to their expulsion, and without leaving the
region of La Marina, we head for the coast.
Vall de Laguar, cherries with
denomination of origin, water
spouts on all sides and the
spectacular Barranc de l’Infern
From the Collado de Garga we reach the Vall de Laguar,
made up of three hamlets that form one single
municipality: Benimaurell, Fleix, where the town hall is,
and Campbell. The San Francisco de Borja de Fontilles
Sanatorium Residence also belongs to the valley. All
these places are surrounded by numerous cultivated
stepped terraces with dry stone walls. Their almond and
cherry trees mark the seasons of the year with their
annual cycle of flowering, fruit harvest, autumn colours
and bare winter branches. All the cherries we have seen
growing in the valleys of La Marina through which we
have passed form the ‘Alicante mountain cherry
protected geographic indication’. We point out the vast
number of waterspouts that we find in the Vall de
Laguar, water good for drinking and that enable us to
relax contemplating this delightful valley. Likewise, we
will also visit the different public washing places there
are. After Benimaurell, and before reaching Fleix, we
come to a flight of steps in the form of continuous
horseshoes going down as far as the Barranc de l’Infern.
It is a Moorish construction that impresses for its perfect
integration into the natural environment. A total of
6,500 stone steps that take us down to the bottom of
the ravine. The great heritage, cultural, ethnographic,
environmental, and landscape value of the Barranc de
l’Infern path is beyond doubt. It is certain that its route
will leave us amazed: unbelievable waterfalls in the
rainy season, vertiginous precipices, stepped unirrigated
The Vall de Laguar 38º 46' 61'' N 0º 6'8 W
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Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
From the unirrigated crops to
oranges, on the way to Dénia
The next town we find once we have left the Vall de
Laguer is Orba.
We realise that the unirrigated crops have given way to
orange groves that now form the landscape of this fertile
land. The name of the town comes from the Arabic ‘UrObia’ which means ‘place where water flows from the
mountains’. Its Moorish origin can be seen, even today,
through its dry-stone walling craftsmanship or analysing
the agrarian Moorish structure of the town. In the town
centre we will visit the house-fort of the Marquis of Dos
Aguas, a building of great architectural interest. Two
kilometres from Orba we find the town of Benidoleig
which, in its origin, was an Arab farmstead of the many
that were established on the riverbanks of the Girona. A
quiet town with a typically Arab layout in which its steep
narrow streets lead us to the parish church. Within the
the municipal boundary and on the way to Pedreguer,
we find the Calaveres [skulls] cave. This cave owes its
name to the fact that, on a potholing expedition
undertaken in the 17th century, the remains of twelve
people were found, presumably Arab farmers from
mediaeval times who were trapped and died there
searching for water. The cave had already been a refuge
for Palaeolithic Man more than 100,000 years ago.
Vestiges of Neolithic burials have been discovered and
others that show the cavern was used as a sanctuary
where offerings were left, in rites generally associated
with fertility and the worship of the land. The cave is 440
metres long and has two sections: one flooded, which
balconies, stone lintels, and carefully worked wooden
doors. Amongst all these the modernist style dwellings
from the early 20th century stand out. We leave
Pedreguer and between farm roads over the plain we
reach Dénia. On the right stands the Montgó, a stone
giant. Dénia is the commercial, tourist and port capital
par excellence of La Marina Alta. It is said to be paradise
on earth for its climate, coastal situation, beaches, bays,
cliffs, lighthouse mountain, its history, the friendliness of
its inhabitants... In it the Mediterranean cultural history is
breathed, with the passage through these lands of
peoples like the Phoenicians and the Romans. From these
last comes the origin of the name of Dénia, from the
Latin Dianium. Amongst its architectural cultural heritage
the mediaeval castle and also modern military fortress
stands out, currently housing the Archaeological
museum. The old neighbourhoods, that are found on the
slopes of the hill where the castle is situated, are
complemented by the recent buildings carried out to
cope with the tourist impetus that this area has
generated since the beginning of the 20th century. This
tourist impetus is justified, amongst other great claims, by
the beauty and quality of Dénia’s beaches, like those of
Les Marines, Les Bovetes, Les Devesses, La Almadrava and
Les Rotes. Another of the claims is that of the Montgó. On
the way to Xàbia along the coast we will get to this huge
rock from Les Planes or, closer to Dénia, from the Pare
Pere hermitage.
Montgó nature park
occupies a distance of 240 metres as far as the end, and
We face the Montgó ready to enter a nature park of
one dry, which has been set out for tourist activities. The
water of the flooded section is made use of for irrigation
by means of an artificial tunnel. A little further on
enormous cultural and natural richness. The Montgó
covers an area of 2,117 hectares. Despite its relatively
modest maximum height of 753 metres, its proximity to
bordering the Llosa ravine, the more populous town of
Pedreguer is reached, extending along the northern
slopes of the Muntanya Gran. Its urban layout is surprising
the sea (just a few hundred metres) causes a steep
descent and a striking visual impact to the visitor. The
natural environment includes, as well as the mountain
for the excellent conservation of traditional architecture,
reflected in its brightly coloured façades, its wrought iron
itself, the cliffs and sea beds of San Antoni cape,
declared a marine reserve. The park’s flora is very rich,
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with over 600 species amongst which are numerous
that are endemic. Regarding fauna, the Montgó has
over 150 species of vertebrates. Amongst these the
most significant is the Bonelli’s eagle, an endangered
species throughout Europe. The impressive mass of rock
named Montgó has, throughout history, been home to
humans practically ever since they existed. Thus the
prehistoric caves attest, with the remains of Iberian
settlements and agricultural colonies. If we start our
itinerary for getting to know the Montgó at the Pare
Pere hermitage, in the first place we encounter the
Cova de l’Aigua. Protected by a metal grille, we find a
Roman inscription on the rock dated 238 AD. The cave
collects in its interior the rain water seeping through
the rock. In the 16th century it was adapted to serve as
a water store. Also from the Pare Pere hermitage we can
get to the remains of the Iberian settlements, not only
those of the Pic de l’Aguila but also those situated on
the Benimàquia point. On the way to the summit along
the edge of unthinkably dizzying sheer cliffs. The path
takes us to the Dénia cross and the culminating cross of
Xàbia. From the summit you have to really open your
eyes to feast on one of the most gratifying views on the
Valencian coast. To the north lie the Mondúber and the
Raboses de Cullera sierra. But if the atmospheric
visibility permits, we will discover the entire gulf of
Valencia and the Castellón coastline. The Penyagolosa
can be sensed as powerful, whilst Ibiza will seem to be
just a stone’s throw away looking eastwards. However,
the most fabulous mountain spectacle is offered by the
stepped profiles of our particular Baetic Cordillera. There
in front of us we have the rocky profiles of nearly all the
Montgó nature park 38º 48' 14'' N 0º 3'91 E
Tallada, the cliffs and the cape Sant Antoni lighthouse.
From here we go down to the pretty little town of
Xàbia.
Privileged places on the Valencian
coast between Xàbia and Calpe
From the Sant Antoni cape we can already make out the
town of Xàbia. The present historic quarter lies a little
way inland away from the coast to avoid, in its time, the
raids from Berber pirates. This historic centre was also
surrounded by defensive walls until 1877. It is a lovely
town with its whitewashed houses, wrought iron grilles
and lintels of a porous golden coloured stone called
tosca. But without any doubt, Xàbia’s most important
mountains: Ifac, Puig Campana. Aitana, Bèrnia, Serrella,
heritage is its beaches and coves. From north to south
and from Sant Antoni cape to the Nao cape, we find
Carrascal de Parcant, Montcabrer, Benicadell, La Safor...
Arriving in Les Planes, or starting our route from this
elevated spot which joins Montgó with the sea, we
beaches of all types with the common denominator of
the crystal clear waters. So we can visit the Pope cove,
close to which is situated the Cueva del Amor [cave of
must visit the Mirador dels Molins, a group of windmill
towers, unique in the Region of Valencia. From this spot
we can make out the broad panorama of Xàbia bay and
love] and formed by medium sized pebbles and the
Arenal beach, uniquely of fine sand and situated a very
the region’s mountains. Also from Les Planes, where
there is a recreational area, we should also visit the Cova
short distance from the historic centre. We also find
beaches of tosca, such as El Primer Montañar, El Segundo
Montañar or Cala Blanca, a nudist beach near the
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Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
Peñón d’Ifach 38° 38' 11" N 0° 4' 58" E
Ambolo area, and a few coves that can only be reached
by boat. And lastly, the small beaches of Granadella and
Cala de Portixol, with pinewoods a few metres from the
water. Having gone along the coast we now turn inland
to get to know the town of Teulada, whose municipal
boundary also has an urban centre on the coast: Moraira.
Along the way to Teulada we can still see the occasional
traditional building known as a riurau, with cosy porches
where grapes were dried for raisins or sultanas. At
Teudela, we point out the church of Santa Catalina,
which answers a double function: religious and
defensive. It is an impressive architectural work in which
we can clearly distinguish the earlier church and on the
other hand, the various different extensions it has
undergone. At Moraira, we highlight the Cap d’Or
watchtower, close to which is the Cendra cave with
relevant archaeological deposits. Our next destination
before reaching the Peñon d’Ifach is Benissa. This place
has been able to preserve its marked mediaeval
character: whitewashed walls, railings, heraldic shields,
flowers on the balconies. In the historic centre the Lonja
de Contratación [the traditional marketplace Exchange,
where the local administrative side of commerce was
carried out] building stands out, the oldest monument in
Peñón d’Ifach nature park
the municipality. It dates from the 16th century and
Peñón d’Ifach is the most visited natural park in the
currently houses visiting exhibitions of high artistic and
cultural value. It has a markedly mediaeval character
made up of three parts, with an arcade of three arches
Region of Valencia, with over 100,000 people a year.
Once through the tunnel, a fork in the footpath will lead
us, on the one hand to the coastguards’ lookout and, on
built with ashlars on the ground floor which dates from
the 16th century. Formerly, the Municipal Council was
found on the upper floor and the lower part was
the other, to the summit of the Peñón. The coastguards’
lookout was an old control post which today offers some
impressive views onto the sea. At the summit we find the
dedicated to commercial transactions.
trig point with a view of the entire landscape
surrounding the Peñón. On the way up we will have
We come to the Peñón d’Ifach nature park which, with its
45 protected hectares, is one of the smallest protected
areas in Europe. However, its bioclimatic characteristics,
the nature of its basic soils, its siting and orientation give
great singularity and variety to the flora and vegetation.
The Peñón d’Ifach is a huge limestone outcrop that falls
away steeply over the sea from its 332 metres of
maximum height and is joined to the land by an isthmus.
Full of strength and magic, sentinel of the eastern
Mediterranean, Ifac is an irresistible coastal ecosystem
that combines mountainous elements with other marine
ones. We should go over to the information centre, from
where a path sets out which enables us to undertake
different routes around the Peñón. We will be pleasantly
surprised when we reach the various different vantage
points giving privileged views along the footpath, and
when we discover that in 1919 a tunnel was excavated to
connect the north face to the east face. In the tunnel
there are two rope handrails so that visitors will not fall,
as so many visitors have been received since its
construction that the floor has been left polished and is
particularly slippery. It is worth saying, at this point, that
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120 - 121
biscuits], passéncies, pastisset de moniato [swet potato
Baños de la Reina 38° 38' 27.39" N 0° 3' 36.60" E
enjoyed the rich flora amongst which stands out the
endemic “Ifach silene” [Silene hifacensis - a nearly extinct
variety of campion or catchfly which only grows on the
Peñón d’Ifac], and a rare variety of the thyme family
“Thymus webbius” which only grows on the Peñón.
Leaving the Peñón, in the vicinity we discover the salt
flats, where the presence of flamingos is common, and
the Baños de la Reina, an old Roman salted fish factory.
We also come across Iberian settlements and, in Calpe
itself, we must take a look around the Moorish Arrabal
neighbourhood, where we will find one of the few
Gothic-Mudejar [referring to Moorish art and
architecture] churches in the Region of Valencia. And, in
this way, taking a stroll around the tourist town of Calpe,
we close this route that sets out in the Comtat region
and has enabled us to get to know the Marina Alta
region, both its legendary Moorish area of valleys and its
excellent coastline of beaches and natural parks.
Practical information
Fiestas, food and crafts
In the mountainous area of El Comtat, it is possible to
taste dishes such as: fassedures de dacsa [maize flour
dumplings], mentirons, pericana [dried cod and dried
peppers], espencat de bacallà [cod and vegetables],
olleta [stew or casserole made with meat, vegetables
and pulses], borreta [a fish stew with anglerfish, cod,
cuttlefish, potatoes, onion, garlic, bay leaves, dried
peppers, tomato and egg], arròs caldos [rice in thin
stock soup], paella de sabater [rice with tomato,
peppers, cauliflower, beans and garlic], arròs de conill
[rice with rabbit and mushrooms], coca de dacsa
[cornbread], arròs al forn amb pedacets i garronets [ovenbaked rice with pieces of pork etc.] and so on. And
with regard to deserts, try the mantecats [biscuits],
genaros [sponge cake], carcanyols [hard almond
filled pastries], pastisset de ametla [with almonds], and
so on.
We also find the typical local drinks like herbero [herb
liqueur], salvieta [sage liqueur], mentira [coffe liqueur
with iced lemon], agua limon negro [iced lemon with a
dash of coffee], infusions using herbs from Mariola, and
coffee liqueur.
Regarding fiestas, as well as the festivals of the patron
saints of each town and city, others that stand out are:
the carnivals [marking the beginning of Lent], romerías
[religious processions and local pilgrimages], the San
Antoni fiesta and the Fiesta de Moros y Cristianos [Moors
and Christians]. Noteworthy in Cocentaina: the fiesta
Dels Nanos, for Lent; La Mare de Déu del Miracle, in April;
and the famous Fira de Tots Sants [All Saints], 1st
November, which has been celebrated every year since
1346 without a break, according to a privilege granted
by Pope Pere IV ‘the Ceremonial’. In the Marina Alta area
the cuisine has marvellous dishes, like: arros a banda
[rice in a fish broth], arros amb fesols i naps [rice with
beans and turnips], cruet de peix [fish stew with
potatoes, tomatoes, onions and garlic], llandeta [mixed
fish, oven-baked, traditionally in a rectangular metal
tray, hence its name], suc roig [tomato and fish stock], or
borreta de melva [fish stew using bullet tuna], all made
with fresh local fish. Also the rabbit cooked with
The Arenal beach 38° 38' 26.39" N 0° 3' 53.52" E
RUTA11_112a123_da.qxp:rutas 29/06/10 8:23 Página 122
Route 11
From Cocentaina to Calpe
almonds must be pointed out, and the desserts such as
March the cherry blossom. These are the best months to
buñuelos de calabaza [pumpkin fritters] and pastissets
d’ametla [sweet potato filled pastries with almonds].
And all of this without forgetting the sweet Moscatel
visit the inland valleys of Marina Alta.
fortified wine. Other dishes in other areas of La Marina
could be: bull amb ceba [bullet tuna with onions and
rice], putxera de polp [octopus stew], mullador de
sangatxo [salted dark tuna flesh stew with a mixture of
Mediterranean vegetables like a ratatouille], mullador de
pelleta [mixed vegetables and tuna], or the coques al
calfó [cornbread with different toppings]. As for the
fiestas, we find the feast days of the patron saints of
each town and village, but also notworthy are: the
carnivals, romerías, the night of San Joan [St. John],
fiesta de Sant Antoni, and Moros y Cristianos. In Dénia
the “Fiesta de Bous a la mar” [a bullfight where the bull
goes onto the beach] is surprising, in the summer.
Regarding crafts, traditional work includes wrought
ironwork, and work in wood. Also tapestries are woven
and palm leaves are still worked, producing hats,
brooms and bags.
Recommended time of year
Any time of year is good, except for the hours around
midday in high summer. In January the colours of the
flowering almonds accompany the route, and in midPortitxol cove 38° 45' 4.10" N 0° 13' 29.55" E
Public transport
Cocentaina station is served by regional trains from
Valencia and the Ferrocarriles de la Generalitat run
between Calpe and Alicante. Bicycles are transported
free of charge on the railway services. There is a bus
service from Alicante to Calpe and to Cocentaina.
Recommendations
In case you wish to travel the route just as it is set out, by
bike or on foot, a word of warning: a mountain bike is
better, or as a minimum, the hybrid type. We do not come
across waterspouts to quench thirst and refresh oneself
outside the urban centres, so we must replenish water
supplies whenever we get the chance. The early hours of
the morning and at dusk are the times of day when the
temperature is agreeable and the light is especially good.
Be careful on stormy days with the east wind. The Marina
Alta area is one of the rainiest in the Region of Valencia
during these storms. If anyone wants to go by car, on the
tracks where it is permitted to use motor vehicles, the
main track should never be left. However, it is much better
and more respectful to the environment, to get to know
in greater detail each natural area we propose leave the
car parked somewhere safe and secure and do trips on
foot.
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122 - 123
Peñón d’Ifach 38º 37' 46'' N 0º 3' 62'' E
RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY:
National Geographic Institute: Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 796- IV; 821- I, II and III; 822- I, II and IV; 823-I and III.
Further information: www.comunitatvalenciana.com
Information on regional and local trains: Renfe 902 24 02 02. www.renfe.es
TOURIST INFO OFFICES ON THE ROUTE:
Tourist Info Benissa
Av. Pais Valencià, 1
03720 Benissa
Tel. 965 73 22 25
Fax 965 73 25 37
benissa@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Benissa-Playa
Av. de la Marina, 307
Urb. La Fustera, A-1
03720 Benissa
Tel. 966 49 83 61
Fax 966 49 99 37
benissaplaya@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Calpe-Centro
Pl. del Mosquit, s/n
03710 Calpe
Tel. 965 83 85 32
Fax 965 83 85 31
calpecentro@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Calpe-Estación
Av. Generalitat Valenciana, s/n
03710 Calpe
Tel. 965 87 40 60
Fax 965 87 56 94
calpestacion@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Calpe - Lonja
Puerto pesquero, s/n
(Lonja de Calpe).
03710 Calpe
Tel. 965 83 74 13
Fax 965 83 95 17
calpelonja@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Calpe-Peñón
Av. Ejércitos Españoles, s/n
03710 Calpe
Tel. 965 83 69 20
Fax 965 83 12 50
calpe@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Cocentaina
Pl. del Pla s/n. Patio de Armas
Palau Comtal
03820 Cocentaina
Tel. 965 59 01 59
Fax 965 59 30 67
cocentaina@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Dénia
Pl. Oculista Buigues, 9
0370 0 Dénia
Tel. 966 42 23 67
Fax 965 78 09 57
denia@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Muro de Alcoy
Pl. Matzem, s/n
03830 Muro de Alcoy
Tel. 965 53 20 71
Fax 965 53 20 71
muroalcoi@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Xàbia-Centre
Pl. de la Iglesia, 4
03730 Xàbia
Tel. 965 79 43 56
Fax 965 79 63 17
xabiacentre@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info de Pego
i Les Valls
Crta. de Dénia, s/n (Corner
c/ San Rafael) 03780 Pego.
Tel. 966 40 08 43
Fax 966 40 08 43
turisme@ vallsdepego. e. telefonica.net
pegoilesvalls@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Xàbia-Port
Pl. Almirante Bastarreche,11
03730 Xàbia
Tel. 965 79 07 36
Fax 965 79 60 57
xabia@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info
Poble Nou de Benitatxell
Crta. de la Font, s/n
03726 Poble Nou de Benitatxell
Tel. 966 49 35 46 ·
Fax 966 49 35 46
benitatxell@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Xàbia-Arenal
Cabo de la Nao. Av. del Pla, 136
Residencial La Plaza
03730 Xàbia
Tel. 966 46 06 05
Fax 965 79 62 58
xabiaarenal@touristinfo.net
Tourist Info Teulada
Crta. Moraira-Teulada 51
03724 Teulada
Tel. 965 74 51 68
Fax 966 49 15 04
teulada@touristinfo.net