Squeeeeek No More® Hardwood Floor Adaptor

Squeeeeek No More® Hardwood Floor Adaptor
The key to the Squeeeeek No More® screw fastening system is the specially coated scored screw. The screw has a
pitch of 8 threads per inch for one inch from the tip, then
the pitch changes slightly to 9 threads per inch up to the
score. This change in pitch draws the layers of wood
tightly together as the screw is driven down.
*If you drive the screw through the fixture and the screw
does not snap the wood may be softer than the wood we
used in developing the screw. The screws will still work
although we won’t drive them through the center hole, we
will use the jig on the side of the adapter. The directions
are on the bottom of the next page.
The Hardwood Floor adapter is made of high strength
fiberglass. When the screw is driven through the adapter
the head hits the top of the fixture causing the screw to
snap at the score. The tooling sets the score 3/8 on an inch
below the surface. Then just fill the small hole with wood
filler that matches your hardwood.
In hardwood floors squeaks can happen at the joist and
also between the joists. Generally squeaks in older homes
happen at the joist and newer homes between. *To find
the joist follow the directions below.
In the area of the squeak
pre-dill a hole with a 1/8 inch
drill bit. The hole should be
2 inches deep.
Drive the Squeeeeek No More
screw down through the
fixture as far as you can get
it to go.
The screw pulls the wood together. Then the head hit the
top of the fixture and snaps
the screw at the score, which
is set 3/8 of an inch below the
floor.
Fill the small hole with wood
filler.
How to Find the Joist
If you have a stud sensor use that to see if you can get an
indication of the joist. If that works, pre-drill a hole at the
joist through the hardwood with a 1/8 drill bit. Then drive
the screw through the fixture, having the flat wide base
against the floor. The screw will snap, 3/8 inch below the
surface. Then fill with a-matching wood filler.
If the stud sensor doesn’t work, then near the wall on the
floor pre-drill a small hole, 3/32 or smaller, down an inch
and a half. Then taking a paper clip that is straightened
out to 2 inches in length, push that through the hole. If the
paper clip goes down more than 1 ½ inches we have
missed the joist. Move over an inch and do it again until
the paper clip stops at 1 ½ inches indicating the joist.
The holes that are made are very small and because they
are close to the wall will be very hard to see when concealed with filler.
Linoleum Floors
In most Linoleum floors you can find the floor joist with
an electric stud sensor. The indications from the stud sensor may be weaker although you should be able to get a
good idea where the joists are. I have found that using a
strong new battery will make the stud finder have a more
consistent reading.
Once you find the joists focus on the spot on the joist
where the movement and squeaks are coming from. Then
drive the screw through the fixture, having the flat wide
base against the floor. The head will hit the top of the fixture and snap. Note: don’t pre-drill the spot where you
drive the screw because that will take away some material
that will expand back over the hole.
In general, the floor joists are 16 inches apart. Your indications from your stud sensor should indicate this. Having a Take a hammer and tap the small bump that is left to
heat vent can help because the vent is in between two joists. smooth out the hole and force the hole to fill over.
Once you find the joists focus on
the spot on the joist where the
movement and squeaks are coming
from. Then drive the screw through
the fixture, having the flat wide
base against the floor.
The head will hit the top of the fixture and snap 3/8ths of an inch
below the linoleum.
Take a hammer and tap the small
bump that is left to smooth out the
hole and force the hole to fill over.
How to use the jig on the side of
the Squeeeeek No More Hardwood Adapter.
The side jig on the adapter is to be used when the screws
are not snapping when driven though the center of the fixture. When this happens the screw is not getting a strong
enough bite into the wood to be able to force the screw to
snap at the score automatically. You can decrease the size
of the bit you use to pre-drill the hole, we started at1/8th
so we can try 7/64th and go down until we find the bit that
works. This will increase the bite into the wood and may
Pre-drill a small hole in the
wood. Start the screw in the
hole then take the jig and set
it next to the screw.
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Drive the screw down until
the head matches the top of
the jig. It should fit evenly
into the top of the jig. If it
pushes the jig away it has
been driven down to far.
solve the problem. If we still have problems we should
use the side jig.
Even though the screw didn’t snap off automatically it
doesn’t mean the screw won’t work. The screw pitches
being different still pull the wood down tight when driven
down to the correct depth. The side jig is what we use to
set the correct depth.
Once the screw aligns with
the jig pull the jig back.
Manufactured In The USA By: O'Berry Enterprises, Inc.
5306 Business Parkway #10 • Ringwood, IL 60072
800-459-8428 • 9-5 CST • Patrick8742@yahoo.com
Take the Squeeeeek No More
carpet adapter and place the
gripper portion over the
screw head and rock the fixture side to side. This will
snap the screw off at the
score that is set 3/8th of an
inch below the surface.