it`s about time

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2011
BOLD&
BEAUTIFUL!
THE NEW GEMSTONES
PLUS:
Celebrity Spotlight
Impeccable Pearls
Gorgeous Gifts!
Special Watch Section:
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
INSIDE:
GIFT
GUIDE
THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION.
LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT
Hand-wound mechanical movement
P.2002 calibre, three spring barrels,
second time zone with 12/24 h
indicator, 8-day power reserve with
linear indicator, seconds reset.
Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel buckle.
www.panerai.com
,
Every year it feels like nothing short of a miracle—the cold of winter that we had thought would never end finally gives way
to the spring thaw. Bursts of greenery and color begin to wash over the dull, gray landscape that we had become accustomed
to for so many months. Spring just feels good—we have more hours of daylight to work, play and enjoy the outdoors and
each other.
This issue of Accent magazine focuses on the celebrations in our lives: Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations, engagements
and weddings. At Tapper’s, we encourage you to Mark the Moment® of the most special junctures in your life. It
will not surprise you that we believe that a gift of lasting, precious jewelry is a wonderful way to mark such a time, but why
not accompany such a gift with another meaningful way to Mark the Moment®? A poem written from your heart, a song
composed just for the occasion, a visit to a place that has special meaning to both of you—all of these are ways to create
memories that will last a lifetime.
Enjoy and take the time to truly savor the moments that lie ahead.
With our very best wishes,
Howard Tapper
Steven Tapper
Marla Tapper Young
Mark Tapper
Contents spring/summer 2011
DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY
NOVI
Twelve Oaks Mall
27716 Novi Road
Novi, MI 48377
Phone: (248) 465-1800
Fax: (248) 465-1818
TROY
Somerset Collection North
2800 West Big Beaver
Troy, MI 48084
Phone: (248) 649-2000
Fax: (248) 649-5076
www.tappers.com
PRESIDENT
Howard Tapper
VICE PRESIDENT
Steven Tapper
26
C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R
Jeffrey Garden
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Robert Hutter
MARKETING DIRECTOR
Margaret De Young
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R
Karynne Naftolin
PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS
J O U R N A L S FA S H I O N G R O U P
PUBLISHER
Stu Nifoussi
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
Hans Gschliesser
MANAGING EDITOR
FEATURES
1 Welcome Letter
26 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry
30 His Side: Romancing the Stone
Jillian Sprague
PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
4 Events at Tapper’s
32 Fashion: From the Runways
6 Jeweler Spotlight: Introducing
Paul Maki
36 Profile: Mikimto
50 Speed: Grand Sport
Cynthia Lucero
Jean-Nicole Venditti
8 Client Spotlights
54 Proposals: Gloves at the Shoe
PRODUCTION MANAGER
12 I Forever Do
56 Essay: Lucky Charms
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
18 Accent Advisor
20 Red Carpet: Shining Stars
24 Essay: The Family Pearls
DESIGNERS
Peg Eadie
Hugh K. Stanton
13 As Time Goes By
14 Best Bets for Graduates,
Dads and Moms
Beth Bernstein
WATCH SECTION
40 Watch Advisor
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton
44 What’s New: Fashionably
on Time
Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices
48 First Person: Hand-Me-Downs
Welcome
in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or
of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While
we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information
omissions.Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box
5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising
Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax:
212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities
2
for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other
materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written
permission of the publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
ON THE COVER: PHOTOGRAPHER: PETER SAKAS; MODEL: ANGELA MARTINI – ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: KIM BAKER; STYLIST: SHARON ELLIOT; WARDROBE: MARC BOWER; JEWELRY: DAVID YURMAN, IPPOLITA, ROBERTO COIN, ROLEX.
WEST BLOOMFIELD
Orchard Mall
6337 Orchard Lake Road
West Bloomfield, MI 48322
Phone: (248) 932-7700
Fax: (248) 932-7717
MODERN ROCK CANDY® IN 18K GOLD WITH GEMSTONES. ©2011 IPPOLITA®. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Susan Tapper, Steven Tapper,
Don Benyas, Florine Mark
Ippolita with the Pensler family
Judith Ripka’s fall personal appearance at
Tapper’s was truly the talk of the town.
Hundreds of guests packed Tapper’s West
Bloomfield store and enjoyed sumptuous
hors d’oeuvres and cocktails while browsing
through an amazing extended collection
from the world-renowned designer. Having
the opportunity to meet Judith Ripka was the
highlight of the evening for Tapper’s clients.
Judith Ripka, Denise Ilitch
Nina Eisenberg, Hersh and
Karen Rothenberg
Lindsay Steingold, Ashley Beresh,
Katie Demarco
Sharon Minott, Ippolita,
Pearl Gordon
Tapper’s guests had the opportunity
to celebrate the artistry of Ippolita and
meet the designer herself as she made a
rare personal appearance at our West
Bloomfield store. With her understated
Italian beauty and magnetic personality,
Ippolita greeted her fans warmly as she
showcased her magnificent line for the
holiday season.
Adrienne Ruby Fink, Judith Ripka,
Carla Schwartz
Sandy Rosenthal, Judith Ripka,
Dr. Annette Barnes, Florine Mark
Crowds gathered to meet
designer Judith Ripka
Howard Tapper, Judith Ripka,
Susan Tapper
Pearl Gordon, Marco and
Kyesook Chin
Tapper’s Panerai enthusiasts gathered for
an elegant evening at the Capital Grille,
enjoying exceptional cuisine and fine
timepieces. Created in 1938 for the Italian
Navy, the first Panerai watch was also the
first military divers’ watch. Faced with the
dilemma of creating a watch that divers
could read while under water, Officine
Panerai devised a simple solution—make
the watches extremely large. Panerai
continues to demonstrate the principles
that have always guided the company:
innovation, exclusivity, and quality.
Leora Goldman, Tom Elward,
Holly Carlos, Rosemary Rolak
Mark Tapper, Dr. Charles Boyd
Les Stansbery, Scott Ferguson,
Derek Hurt
Dr. Joe Miller, Eugene Blakeman
Dr. Tom Selznick, Sandor Holzer,
Dr. Adam Kellman
Aaron Shephard, Steven Tapper,
Derek Hurt
UPCOMING EVENTS
April 29 & 30: Charles Krypell Personal Appearance & Trunk Show, West Bloomfield
May 4 & 5: Mikimoto Trunk Show, Twelve Oaks Mall and Somerset Collection
June 25 & 26: Tapper’s Summer Bridal Event, All locations
Introducing…PAUL
MAKI
On a typical day, Paul Maki can be found hard at work at his jeweler’s bench inside Tapper’s West
Bloomfield store. A native of Berkley, Michigan, the 38-year-old jewelry designer spent childhood
summers with his grandfather in the Upper Peninsula. Together, they would take metal detectors and
go out looking for copper and raw silver. “I liked to beat metal with a hammer even at a young age,” Paul
remembers.
Today, as one of Tapper’s master jewelers, Paul channels his passion for precious metals into beautiful
designs for Tapper’s clients. Most recently, Paul Maki Designs has introduced an exclusive line of
engagement rings, with each design’s inspiration tied to a particular historical time period. Together
with his wife, Andrea, who helps both with ring design and on the brand’s business end, Paul has
designed and crafted an exclusive line of engagement rings. Inspired by specific periods during the 18th,
19th and early 20th centuries, Paul Maki rings are designed and crafted to last forever. “The design and
construction of our rings have been meticulously thought over to ensure that the customer will have
problem-free wear,” Paul notes.
Paul Maki’s Georgian-era rings hearken back to a time when precious metals were extremely expensive
and engagement rings from that time focused on airy designs. Notice the slim, elegant profile of this
ring, as well as the open heart detail that flanks the center diamond. In contrast, jewelry crafted during
Queen Victoria’s reign boasted lavish use of precious metals as well as large diamonds and gemstones.
Maki’s three-stone diamond “Victorian” ring is reflective of this era.
Art Nouveau is a style of art that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century and manifested
itself in natural, organic and floral motifs—leaves, scrolls, a natural look. The Edwardian period was
influenced by luxury and lavish designs, giving way to intricate concepts and attention to detail.
Art Deco moved away from the softer, organic, natural feel of Art Nouveau and focused on functional,
industrial, clean edges and lines.
In addition to the bridal designs that you will find exclusively at Tapper’s, Paul will also custom-design
rings and other jewelry to perfectly suit a client’s individual desires. “If you can dream it, I can work to
make it happen,” says Paul. Tapper’s will soon carry an even greater selection
of Paul Maki designs, including more men’s and women’s wedding bands,
and new engagement ring styles.
To make an appointment with Paul Maki,
please contact Tapper’s at (248) 932-7700.
2011 JOHN HARDY LIMITED
NAGA COLLECTION
A Match Made in Heaven
Tatianna & Jonathan Merritt
Married October 24, 2010
THE BRIDE...Tatianna Thomason, 27, A graduate of Wayne State University, Tatianna is an administrative assistant at Straight Gate
International Church.
THE GROOM...Jonathan Merritt, 28. A graduate of the University of Michigan, Jonathan serves as church administrator at
Straight Gate International Church, headed by his parents, Bishop Andrew and Viveca Merritt.
THE MEETING... “At the moment that I first saw Tatianna, bells went off and something told me that she was to be my wife,” Jonathan
explains. Initially unexcited about attending the event where the couple first met, Jonathan knows that something drew him there that
evening. Tatianna knew that she had met someone special, but wasn’t able to get a good look at Jonathan that evening. “It was so dark
that I had no idea what Jonathan looked like, just that he was a gentleman and very tall. 6’7” to be exact.” Jonathan texted her a photo
of himself later that evening… after some more texting back and forth, the couple talked every day after that evening and, five months
later, were engaged.
THE PROPOSAL...On the day of Tatianna’s graduation party, Jonathan “surprised me with a video spoof about our relationship,
made by him and his brother,” Tatianna remembers. “The end of the video told me to proceed to the other room for my next surprise.”
There, Tatianna found a candlelit room illuminating a banner proclaiming “I love you, TT.” Jonathan was on one knee, and he asked
Tatianna to be his wife. “I couldn’t have asked for a better proposal,” says Tatianna. “Of course I said ‘Yes!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: A 1.33 ct. round brilliant cut diamond in a custom 18K white gold diamond pavé
mounting, with matching wedding band. His: Platinum and diamonds, from Tapper’s Estate Collection.
THE WEDDING...Surrounded by 1,500 of their friends and family, as well as several hundred roses, calla lilies
and hydrangeas, Tatianna walked down the aisle (that had to be specially built on top of the pews) at Straight
Gate International Church, with Jonathan meeting her at the end. Especially meaningful is that the couple was
married by Jonathan’s father, Bishop Andrew Merritt. The celebration continued late into the night at Detroit’s
Westin Book Cadillac Hotel, with a dinner and dancing reception for 250 guests. The next day, Jonathan whisked
Tatianna away to their surprise honeymoon destination—Maui – followed by several days in California.
WHY TAPPER’S? Says Jonathan: “We have a close relationship with the Tappers; my parents
are actually neighbors with Howard and Susan Tapper. So every piece of jewelry that my family has
bought over the last 17 years has come from Tapper’s.” Jonathan also noted that the magnificent
diamond jewelry that Tatianna wore on her wedding day was from Tapper’s, as were his wedding
band and cufflinks. “Pearl Gordon, along with the whole Tapper family, offer excellent customer
service. I wouldn’t have gone anywhere else, since Tapper’s is like extended family to me. Everyone
was so helpful in finding the best diamond and that is exactly what we got, plus more.”
A Natural Attraction
Melissa & Kevin Konopka
Married June 5, 2010
THE BRIDE...Melissa Cassin, 27. Currently finishing a Masters of Science in Nurse Anesthesia from the University of Detroit
Mercy. Loves polar bears, hates being the center of attention.
THE GROOM...Kevin Konopka, 30, graduated from Central Michigan University and Henry Ford Hospital’s nursing school. Kevin
is a nurse in the Cardiothoracic Intensive Care Unit at Harper Hospital. A former Boy Scout, Kevin loves football and camping.
THE MEETING... “Kevin and I met at work…but we did not really get to know each other until later that year, while taking a course
for work,” explains Melissa. “When the course was over, we decided to go grab a bite to eat… and we instantly clicked. His birthday was
the following weekend so we went out on an unofficial first date with some of his friends. Our first official date was the next day at a
Detroit Red Wings game (definitely my choice). We have been inseparable since then.”
THE PROPOSAL...A self-admitted ‘tree-hugger,’ Melissa says that Kevin’s choice to propose to her at the Toledo Zoo’s polar
bear exhibit on Earth Day was really fitting. The proposal took weeks of preparation and required coordination with the polar bear
zookeeper and the zoo’s event planner. His efforts were definitely appreciated: “He really put a lot of thought into the whole day, and
I could not think of a more perfect way for Kevin to propose,” Melissa said. “It was the middle of the afternoon, and very hot. He was
insistent about getting over to the Arctic exhibit and I wanted to linger at other spots for a while. We finally made it over there and
listened to a presentation about polar bears. I was completely oblivious at the time, but at the end of the presentation, they asked if
anyone had questions. I knew something was up…he was holding my hand, and it was sweaty and shaking. Kevin raised his hand,
received a microphone, and got down on one knee… I was in shock, thinking, this is not happening…there are
too many people here! He opened the Tapper’s box, put the most gorgeous diamond on my finger, and of
course I said ‘Yes!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: A 2.29 ct. round diamond mounted in a platinum Martin Flyer shared prong eternity
setting with matching Martin Flyer eternity band. His: Platinum band by Novell with hammered center, high
polish and milgrain edge.
THE WEDDING...Melissa and Kevin had a June wedding at the Inn at St. John’s in Plymouth, followed by
a honeymoon in California, Mexico and Aruba. The couple currently resides in Brownstown with Guss, the
“coolest dog in the world.”
WHY TAPPER’S? “Every girl wants the most beautiful engagement ring, and when we first talked about
the possibility of looking for rings, I told Kevin he needed to go to Tapper’s, and only Tapper’s,” Melissa explained.
“I learned about Tapper’s when I was a teenager, receiving a beautiful bracelet from my aunt and uncle for
Christmas. From that moment on, I was hooked! When we went to Tapper’s to begin the process, the friendliness
and professionalism from all of the workers, and the stunning beauty of the diamonds made our decision simple.
We were very comfortable from the minute we walked into the store…we immediately felt like part of the family.
Marla Tapper helped us design the perfect engagement ring and band, and she was possibly as excited as we were!”
A Thanksgiving Proposal
Trisha & M.G. Shapiro
Married September 25, 2010
THE BRIDE...Trisha Cohn, 27, graduated from Michigan State University in 2005 and is manager of philanthropic giving at Detroit
Public Television.
THE GROOM...M.G. Shapiro, 32, graduated from the University of Michigan in 2001 and is the operations manager for Rainbow
Child Care Center.
THE MEETING... Trish and M.G. met at a mutual friend’s Groundhog Day party and ended up hitting it off. “We talked all night,”
remembers Trish, “but he didn’t ask me for my number.” It wasn’t until the Fourth of July, however, that Trish and M.G. had their first
date, over coffee in Royal Oak. “Our second date was two days later where M.G. made dinner for me…scrambled eggs and quinoa. It was
love!”
THE PROPOSAL...“Thanksgiving is somewhat of a ritual for me,” says M.G. “I don’t have a lot of family, so every year I cook a large
meal and whoever is in town is who eats. Some years I have a half dozen of my friends, some years just one or two. For Thanksgiving in
2009, I invited Trish’s whole family over. Aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole crew. I had my family and friends as well.” Dressed in what he
describes as his ‘Thursday best,’ (sweatpants and a Detroit Lions T-shirt), M.G. offered a toast at the beginning of the meal. “After thanking
everyone for coming, I said: ‘ I’m very nervous that you may not like my cooking, so I figure the best way to ensure you come back next
year is to marry Trish.’” Then, on bended knee, M.G. proposed. “Thirty minutes later, when Trisha was done crying, she said ‘YES!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: 1 ct. Hearts On Fire solitaire engagement ring with a pavé diamond band. His: Beveled
edge palladium wedding band.
M.G. also had a necklace custom-created for Trisha using family diamonds and chose diamond earrings from
Tapper’s to match. The couple selected Pandora bracelets as bridesmaid’s gifts and had the groomsmen’s gifts
engraved at Tapper’s as well.
THE WEDDING...M.G. and Trisha wed on September 25th, 2010, at the beautiful Twin Lakes Golf Club
in Oakland, Michigan.
WHY TAPPER’S? M.G. recalls:
“I called a very close friend of mine to ask her questions about
rings. I knew absolutely nothing about diamonds and was terrified I was going to make a mistake
without some educating. She recommended Tapper’s because she is friends with Marla Tapper and
her husband got her ring from Tapper’s, as well. So I took the day off from work and met with Marla.
I had about a million questions for her and she answered every one. On that first day, we spent
hours together, with Marla teaching me about the 4 Cs. Marla was amazing. She made me feel very
comfortable about my choice. When she showed me Hearts On Fire, I immediately knew it was the
diamond I wanted for Trish.”
SCAN. EXPLORE.
FIND YOUR TAG HEUER
Invented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer and reengineered
for our new in-house Calibre 1887 movement, the
oscillating pinion enables our CARRERA chronograph
to start in less than 2/1000th of a second.
1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com
®
There are as many ways to fall in love as there are stars in the sky.
Now that you have found each other, each of you shines more
brightly than before. Tapper’s is home to the top names in bridal
jewelry designers, as well as to a team of custom designers who
are always ready to help you create the ring of your dreams. A
direct diamond importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and
quality for diamonds as radiant as your love.
The dramatic engagement rings and wedding bands shown on this page represent only
a fraction of the hundreds of rings that sparkle in our stores. Due to the fluctuating prices of
precious metals and sizing options with diamond and gemstone weights, prices will vary.
Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist at (248) 932-7700
for specific pricing information, or to make an appointment.
Time stood still on your wedding day…
luckily your Cartier Ballon Bleu will step
in with precision and style. Both in stainless
steel. Gents, $5,650. Mid-size, $4,650.
Anniversary bands from Precision Set.
Prices available upon request.
Diamond rondelles enhance the
finest pearls in the world in this
breathtaking Mikimoto strand, $5,500.
®
Emerald-cut diamond eternity band
in platinum, from Kwiat, $28,000.
Even if you’re not planning to attend the
u
upcoming
royal wedding, let her know that
she’s your queen with this stunning sapphire and
diamond
dia
amond ring set in 14K white gold, $4,699.
Crafted in 18K white gold, richly-hued
sapphires are surrounded by 124 diamonds
to create a stunning effect, $7,299.
A perfect graduation gift from John Hardy’s
Batu collection – sterling silver bracelets with
heart and gemstone charms (choose from
either rubelite or hematite). Each, $395.
Achieve maximum sparkle
with the ‘Beloved’ earrings and
pendant in18K white gold from
Hearts On Fire, which produces
the most perfectly cut diamonds
in the world. Pendant, $3,200.
Earrings, $4,950.
Treat the graduate in your life to the finest pearls
in the world. A solitary, stunning Mikimoto pearl
is set in 18K white gold with diamond accent,
on an 18” gold chain, $590. Matching pearl
and diamond stud earrings, $710.
Sophisticated enough for his first ‘real’ job but young
enough to be cool…the TAG Heuer Aquaracer
chronograph with blue dial, date, $1,900.
John Hardy ring with black sapphires, $750.
Sultan bracelet with black sapphires, $1,095.
With its sports-chic design, retro accent
and warm tones, Baume and Mercier’s
new Capeland watch is a contemporary
reinterpretation of the ‘galet’ pocket
watches of the early 19th century. In
stainless steel, $7,000.
It’s always tee time with a ‘golf ball’
money clip in stainless steel, $150.
Perfect for the car buff -- add polish
to any outfit with these two-tone, 14K
gold and diamond ‘steering wheel’
cufflinks, $1,179.
The Freelancer automatic
from Raymond Weil is
modern and sleek, $1,850.
Dad will be at the height of fashion with the
Royal Cord design from America’s premier designer,
David Yurman. All in sterling silver. Cufflinks, $450.
Ring, $375. Leather bracelet, $295.
Panerai’s coveted Luminor
Submersible in titanium with
black rubber strap, $7,400.
Add to Mom’s collection or start a stack today deliciously colorful bangles from Ippolita (with
names like Rock Candy and Lollipop, who can
resist?). Starting at $1,495 (in 18K yellow gold).
From renowned designer David Yurman.
Sterling silver and diamond ‘Infinity’ earrings,
$1,950. ‘Infinity’ diamond ring, $1,100.
Layered look eight strand necklace in sterling
silver accented with diamond balls, $2,250.
‘Infinity’ diamond enhancer, $2,950.
Add a splash of color to her jewelry wardrobe
with a pair of these fun hoop earrings in sterling silver.
Choose from ruby, sapphire or green garnet,
accented with white topaz. Each, $259.
Stackable stainless steel bracelets in ruby, sapphire
and green garnet, some styles with diamond accents.
Priced from $99.99 to $139.99 each.
Bring sparkle and sophistication to her life
with the Michele Urban diamond watch
(with diamond bracelet), $2,195.
Italian de
designer Marco Bicego’s
dramatic ‘Ja
‘Jaipur’ collection in 18K
yellow go
gold. Earrings, $1,450.
Necklace, $2,180.
$
Ring, $2,290.
The ‘Fontaine’ necklace by designer
Judith Ripka in sterling silver features
‘heart’ stations accented with 18K
yellow gold and diamonds. A stunning
way to say ‘l love you,’ $550.
Make a statement with faceted black
onyx jewelry from Judith Ripka’s ‘Contempo’
collection. Set in sterling silver with 18K yellow
gold accents. Enhancer, $650. Ring, $650.
Both pieces pair well with the designer’s
‘Ambrosia’ bracelet with onyx, mother of pearl,
hematite, crystal and white sapphires, $1,950.
Spectacular diamond hoops from Roberto Coin
feature almost three carats of diamonds
set in 18K white gold, $6,100.
Stack up sophisticated style from Italian
designer Roberto Coin. The ‘Primavera’
bracelet in your choice of white, yellow or
rose 18K gold with diamonds, $1,900 each.
Inspired byy the dragon’s ccoat of
mail,
Hardy’s
collection
mail John Ha
rdy’s Naga coll
is striking in sterling silver and
18K yellow gold. Earrings, $495.
Chain, $275. Pendant, $895.
ACCENTADVISOR
HOW DO I
MIX FINE
AND
FASHION
JEWELRY?
I’VE BEEN SEEING A LOT
OF BLACK USED IN FINE
JEWELRY. WHAT ARE THE KEY
Use a pretty black dress or a
simple top as the backdrop for
mixing pieces. Wear a gold medallion
STONES AND METALS, AND HOW
CAN I WEAR THEM?
pendant along with multiple chains in
blackened and tonal antiqued base metal. Or
you can mix in real baroque pearls with a
large colored pendant in crystal rather than a
precious gem. A low-risk way to mix real and
faux is on the wrist; you have more room to
be playful as it’s further from your face. Here,
mix leather or suede wrap styles with pavé
charms, or Bakelite and wood with precious
stones. Throw in some high karat gold thin
bangles to create a truly eclectic look. This
season, designers are even mixing these
materials into one piece to offer a statement
at an affordable price. But if you prefer
simplicity, stick to a pair of cuffs in wood with
center gemstones, and a mesh necklace with
chains of matte gold. The combination will be
different and dramatic, and take you through
the season in style.
The trend started with designers adding a black rhodium
finish to white gold and mixing it with high karat yellow gold
for a richer look. As the darker metal began to sell and the
prices for gold went up, the next step was to use blackened or
highly oxidized silver. (Some designers still use black rhodium
plated 18K white gold, which can mean a slightly higher price
tag.) These metals look great with the of-the-moment
diamonds—also black—which are spectacular in rose, brilliant
and polished rough cuts. Black can be done in styles from
gothic to feminine, such as pavé leaves and flowers with a
black diamond center. If you want to add color to your black
jewelry look, try a hint of rough cut fancy sapphires, the pretty
watercolor shades of moonstones and aquamarines, or the
IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY
more saturated orange hues of citrines.
18
RED CARPET
Shining Stars
AWARDS SEASON PROVIDES A PLETHORA OF CELEBRITY EYE CANDY
BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
Amy Adams
Kim Kardashian
W
ith a smile like that, who needs jewelry? Halle Berry and her earrings were radiant at the 13th Annual Costume Designer Guild
Awards, held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. Take your spring style cue from her and try a piece that mixes different stone colors and
metal tones. Here, white and champagne diamonds set in black and yellow gold are subtle, but so-right-now.
At the Vanity Fair Campaign Hollywood 2011 Kick-off with Chrysler, Amy Adams chose a classic earring shape with a modern twist. Her
textured hoops in blackened gold were an unexpected surprise peeking out from underneath those perfectly tousled waves.
Reality star Kim Kardashian rocked a bold yellow gold choker and simple studs at the People’s Choice Awards in L.A.’s Nokia Theater. While
her show, Keeping Up With the Kardashians, won the award for TV’s Guiltiest Pleasure, her Art Nouveau-inspired necklace was our pick for
eye-catching accessory.
20
JEWELRY THIS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: AMRAPALI, HELLMUTH, RINA LIMOR
Halle Berry
RED CARPET
LeAnn Rimes
Nicky Hilton
She plays the love interest of a devilish serial killer on Showtime’s Dexter, but Julia Stiles looked heavenly in star-shaped stud earrings at
the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. A dramatic ruffle and bold fuchsia lips—both huge trends this spring—made for stellar red carpet style.
LeAnn Rimes sparkled in sequins at the Grammys. Head-to-toe metallic can be hard to accessorize, but her stacked gold bangles and
mother of pearl earrings complemented instead of competed with her beautifully draped gown.
It’s tough to contend with angel wings covered in peacock feathers, but at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Nicky Hilton’s diamond
necklace and earrings were almost as jaw-dropping as the models. Almost.
22
JEWELRY THIS PAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: H. STERN, AMRAPALI, MOUAWAD
Julia Stiles
6325 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield, MI . 248.539.3090 . www.mariasbridal.com
ESSAY
THE FAMILY PEARLS
A
s the cathedral bells pealed, the “new” bride and her groom turned
to walk down the aisle. My mother and I were in Manila to celebrate
her sister’s golden wedding anniversary. The assembled crowd of
stylish men and women had spent months consulting their embroiderers,
modistes and tailors—all to design traditional butterfly-sleeved ternos and
barongs tagalog that would comply with the “Native Dress” request engraved
in gold on the invitation.
While the keen-eyed could distinguish between piña that had been
embroidered and tatted at one pet convent versus another, what really set the
women apart were their pearls. My mother wore her prized princess length strand
of golden 10 mm baroque natural (not cultured) pearls and her younger sister
wore her stunning choker length strand of blue 8 mm natural pearls. But the real
showstopper glowed on the bride—a perfectly matched 10 foot strand of creamy
pink 6 mm natural pearls. As my aunt glided gracefully past us, she resembled my
grandmother in the formal wedding portrait that hangs in the gallery of our family
home in Manila.
A few days earlier, upon arriving at the traditional Spanish-style
hacienda, my mother and her younger sister chatted about fittings with
their modistes and donations to the convents while I lingered in the gallery
studying the family portraits. At the very end stood the “lifesize” (at 5’10” I
stand taller than the frame) oil painting of my maternal grandparents on
their wedding day almost 75 years ago. The diminutive figures in the
painting were resplendent in their native Filipino dress. I was struck by how
realistically and beautifully the artist had rendered each pearl in my
grandmother’s necklace, which dramatically looped her tiny neck and
grazed the hem of her dress.
Upon my grandmother’s death, she left each of her daughters the parure in
her birthstone—emeralds for my mother, rubies for her elder sister and sapphires
for her younger sister—but she left the “family pearls” to all three of them. After
consulting our family jeweler, who had brokered the original acquisition of this
extraordinary single strand that had taken over 50 years to match, the sisters
decided to separate the necklace into three equal strands, each finished with a
new platinum clasp adorned with a ruby, an emerald and a sapphire to represent
the three sisters.
Over the years, as they dutifully had their pearls restrung annually, each one
divided her strand and had the clasp reproduced to create a single strand with
jeweled stations that could also be worn as nested strands, a shorter strand and
a bracelet, or a choker with several bracelets. The “family pearls” (as my mother
and her sisters always called them) had made many appearances over the years
at various family events including weddings, christenings, anniversaries and even
funerals. Once, as mother of the bride, my elder aunt had even worn her set
combined with my younger aunt’s. But the entire original strand had never been
reunited until that golden wedding anniversary. Almost another decade will pass
before my own parents celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary—an event as
rare and special as the pearls that will be worn to commemorate it.
While high-definition video has long replaced oil portraits, the idea of several
generations and one very beautiful necklace reuniting to celebrate a milestone
will never become outdated.
24
IMAGE COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO
REUNITED AND IT FEELS SO GOOD BY JOSEPH UNGOCO
TRENDS
The Joy
of Jewelry
COLORFUL GEMS FIT
FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK
BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
THE GEMS
Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association
(AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple,
are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures,
he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but
emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue
moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are
extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it
helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality
at affordable prices.
26
IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN
T
his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry
style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the
direction of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color.
Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few
years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black
Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend
analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s
biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you
can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and
other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and
accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning
ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way
to do that.”
LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down
“This year, you’re also going to see more
engagement ring center stones in blues and
greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue
sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the
trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back
in 1981, when she received the engagement ring
from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great
option for women who don’t want to be too
‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem
of great color.”
At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design
awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the
winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neongreen tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges,
all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it
represents a definite style direction.”
In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are
also premiering dazzling fashion collections with
great green gems, especially green tourmalines,
peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates,
green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past
year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been
requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for
their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.”
The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will
coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles
according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director
of The Pantone Color Institute, which named
‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for
spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really
works well as a neutral and we see people more
inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says.
This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as
its number-one fashion color and, for
spring/summer, the passion for purple continues,
with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry
designers are showing violet gem creations in
everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple
sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and
quartzes.
the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you
have another option. Instead of investing in one
massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be
to buy several long chains and links that can each be
doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can
experiment and create many different looks, for both
daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces,
graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the
neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the
look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In
this season of bold color, choose one with a bright
gemstone center.
EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these supersized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why
not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that
reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to
select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your
hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a
lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some
degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if
you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some
people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of
eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only
accessory.
GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops
were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you
shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s
strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than
ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one
prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck.
It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your
jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some
gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom,
allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in
the way natural light shines through a stained glass
window.
MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t
be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover
anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of
your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve
been wearing forever, this is the season to start
collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If
you want to stick to karat gold for your precious
metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold
colors to choose from: rose, blackened and
sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece
slightly changes the look of the color. (For example,
a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear
to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte
blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add
different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe,
you’ll see how all the shades really do work together.
And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of
a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of
jewelry is collecting it over time.
FIVE TO BUY
Now that you know what these post-winter pickme-up colors and coordinating gemstones are,
which jewelry pieces in particular should you be
considering? Ultimately that depends on your
individual style as well as what jewelry you already
own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we
highly recommend:
BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item
adorning spring runway models was the big
bangle, and they usually wore two or three per
arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and
not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured
stones, beads, or some sort of bright
embellishment.
28
HIS SIDE
Romancing
the Stone
MY ROCKY EXPERIENCES BUYING
JEWELRY FOR GIRLFRIENDS
BY MICHAEL GIULIETTI
30
GETTY 1
I
was 10 and at an Italian ski resort the first time I gave jewelry to a female.
She was 18, beautiful, and to prove my love, I left a gift of shiny dark
purple beads by her door, a bold move I was sure would make up for our
eight-year age difference. She sweetly accepted the gift but turned down my
proposal of undying devotion. Heartbroken, I was not yet aware that this
would be the last time I’d give a gift of jewelry without trepidation.
While dating Jen, a professional dancer, I considered buying her a ring
but quickly decided it would represent a commitment I wasn’t ready to
make. Instead, I chose an ornate crystal choker that ended up being so tight
that it cut off her air supply. Although she had left magazines open to pages
featuring her favorite jewelry designer, I’d been oblivious to these not-sosubtle hints. We broke up six months later.
I soon met Arianna. For her birthday, I purchased a Turkish
handcrafted sterling silver necklace with a carved pendant. Upon careful
examination, the carving revealed a well-endowed naked man with open
arms. Aware of possible misinterpretations, I worried: Was I showing
sexual insecurity? Was it in really bad taste? But when I gave it to Arianna,
she was delighted and wore the piece close to her heart. Ultimately the
guy in the carving would remain in her life a lot longer than I would.
Moving to New York from my native Milan, I started dating Bettina, a style
writer who dragged me to esoteric jewelry exhibits at various museums. “I
don’t want to see a bunch of jewelry,” I protested in response to a Castellani
exhibit. “But it’s as much your heritage as the Vatican and its frescoes,”
Bettina replied as I marveled at the intricate pieces behind the glass cases.
The word for ‘jewel’ in Italian is
related to ‘joy’ and I wanted to give
Bettina a sense of gioia di vivere.
She loves rose cut diamonds, so I
picked out a pair of stones and
had them made into drop
earrings, one-of-a-kind, just
like her. It’s the closest I’ve
come to truly committing to a
woman with a gift of jewelry.
And while I’m now more
adept at taking hints, I’m still hoping to
recapture the courageous young boy who declared his feelings with
unabashed audacity and an open heart.
FASHION
IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
SUBSTANTIAL PENDANTS
PROVIDE PERFECT CONTRAST
TO PRETTY PRINTS
Runways
From
the
NOTICE-ME
NEUTRALS
TEMPERED A
KALEIDOSCOPE
OF COLORS
ON SPRING 2011
RUNWAYS ACROSS
THE GLOBE.
BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
FASHION
LAYER HEARTS
OVER LACE FOR
AN ON-TREND
VINTAGE LOOK
A LITTLE
SHINE
GOES A
LONG
WAY…
MOONSTONE MANIA!
THESE COOL STONES
ARE HOT FOR SPRING
Runways
From
the
NOTICE-ME
NEUTRALS
PROFILE
Mikimoto strands
are world-renowned
for their perfectly
matched pearls; this
process becomes
exponentially more
difficult when strands
are longer.
Timeless Beauty
MIKIMOTO CULTURED PEARLS—A PERFECT BALANCE OF
TRADITION AND INNOVATION BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
36
A Unique History
After many years of trials and tribulations,
Kokichi Mikimoto succeeded in creating the
world’s first cultured pearl in 1893. He then
sent artisans on missions to Europe to master
the techniques of jewelry production and
design. This knowledge, supplemented by the
Japanese aesthetics of form, line and
workmanship, produced the distinctive
originality of Mikimoto designs. In 1899,
equipped with his first collection, Mr.
Mikimoto opened the first Mikimoto Pearl
Store, Japan’s first specialty pearl shop, in
Tokyo’s Ginza district. After improving his
cultivating and harvesting techniques, he was
able to ship his product overseas, making
cultured pearls available to women around
the world.
IMAGES COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO
O
f all the love stories over the ages, does anything beat the
intensity of Cleopatra and Marc Antony? Betting him that she
could consume the wealth of an entire nation in one meal,
Cleopatra removed a pearl earring, crushed it, and drank the powder mixed
with wine. Under her spell and hopelessly enchanted, Antony neglected his
duties to the Roman Empire, thus changing forever the course of history.
Since ancient times, pearls have indeed symbolized everything from
purity of love to victory in battle. From symbol of chastity to mystical
aphrodisiac, pearls have reflected the power of love. Worn by ancient
Greeks at their wedding ceremonies to ensure marital bliss (and prevent
new brides from crying), pearls are worn today by modern brides for
strangely similar reasons. After all this time, pearls still represent innocence,
sophistication and timeless beauty.
In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto successfully created the world’s first cultured
pearl, launching today’s cultured pearl industry and making cultured pearls
available to women all over the world. The company is internationally
respected for its dedication to beauty and quality. Since each pearl is as
different and individual as a fingerprint, quality grading standards are
essential. Mikimoto has maintained the highest standards of quality and
consistency by devoting more than a century to understanding the sea and
researching the oyster. They’ve developed a proprietary grading system,
unique within the cultured pearl industry. Although no single factor can
solely represent the worth of a pearl, luster and surface perfection are most
important. There are four Mikimoto grades: A, A+, AA and AAA, with AAA
being the highest quality. A mere three to five
pearls out of every 100 harvested are deemed
worthy to bear the Mikimoto name.
While there is nothing more cherished than a
classic strand of Mikimoto pearls, numerous
fashion options abound. For 2011, these include:
LONGER
STRANDS
Ranging in length from 32 to an
astounding 100 inches, these
longer strands are the perfect
accessory and a wonderful
gift for today’s modern
woman. Taking the classic
beauty of a traditional choker
to a whole new level, these
versatile strands, whether worn
for day or evening, alone or
layered with another piece of
jewelry, add glamour to any occasion.
Not only a unique fashion look, these
long strands truly showcase the superior quality for
which Mikimoto is revered. Each strand is a work of
art, requiring incredible skill, judgment and
craftsmanship. Mikimoto strands are worldrenowned for their perfectly matched pearls and this
process becomes exponentially more difficult when
strands are longer. Demanding the finest judgment
and artistic sense, only Mikimoto has the ability to
sort and match such long lengths of pearls.
PEARLS
IN
MOTION
contrast to the classic, feminine elegance of white pearls, Mikimoto Black
South Seas are pearls with attitude, emitting an air of confidence. Day or
night, from the boardroom to the runway, Black South Sea pearls are the
perfect complement to any outfit, and an icon of
style and taste. Because of their breathtaking
natural hues, fashion mavens and connoisseurs
alike consider Mikimoto’s Black South Sea
cultured pearls to be among the most distinctive
of all gems. With their hypnotic depth of color
ranging from light gray to peacock green to
midnight black, these treasures of the sea seem lit
from within, conferring a remarkable radiance and
sophistication upon those fortunate enough to
wear them.
In 1914, Kokichi Mikimoto established a
culturing site for Black South Sea pearl oysters
on Ishigaki Island in Okinawa, Japan. Since that
time, the brand has remained the authority on
Black South Sea cultured pearls of the highest
quality. Almost a century later, Black South Sea
jewelry remains a formidable fashion trend as
style-savvy consumers are embracing these
gems as never before. Mikimoto’s international
design team uses Black South Sea cultured
pearls to create jewels of impeccable style and
quality, from a perfectly-matched choker to a
multi-colored 45” strand that can be layered or
wrapped.
CARING
FOR
PEARLS
The rules are simple:
Wipe gently with a soft
cloth after wearing and
store separately so they
don’t get scratched.
Remember: pearls are
organic gemstones, and
thus vulnerable to acid,
alkaline and humidity. That
said, pearls beg to be
worn; left alone in a box
they risk dehydration, so
wear them often and flaunt
your elegance and style!
With Pearls in Motion, the
possibilities are unlimited. This unique
concept in jewelry design offers the
versatility to wear Mikimoto cultured pearls in an infinite
number of ways. Place the cultured pearls anywhere along the
slim, elegant chain. The gems will remain in place thanks to
Mikimoto’s exclusive, patented mechanism.
BLACK SOUTH
SEA
Mikimoto Black South Sea cultured pearls, with their exotic
origins and mysterious color palette, are a versatile must-have
for today’s trendsetters looking to make an edgy fashion statement. In direct
BAROQUE
COUTURE
COLLECTION
The natural beauty of Mikimoto’s Baroque South
Sea cultured pearls is derived from their superb
luster and irregular, yet
beautiful, silhouettes. The
unique organic shapes of these
pearls make them a constant
marvel to behold, a true fashion
statement and conversation
piece.
Baroque Couture is a
collection of one-of-a-kind
Mikimoto jewelry inspired by the Baroque pearl. The
Baroque Couture Collection uses the distinctive shape and size of each
individual pearl as the subject of each exclusive design. Nature determines
the setting and Mikimoto designers fulfill each pearl’s destiny.
Says Amy Kim-Araneo, Mikimoto’s vice president of product
development and design: “Designing baroque pearl jewelry is incredibly
exciting and challenging because no two pearls are alike, so each piece
takes on its own personality. The unique shape of each pearl truly dictates
the design…as if it knows what it wants to be. The organic, fluid designs of
Baroque Couture really conform to the body and showcase a more modern,
less traditional look in pearl jewelry.”
37
THE BEST WAY TO BUY A DIAMOND
IS CONFIDENTLY.
C arat Weight:
1.53
C olor Grade:
E
C larity Grade:
VS1
C ut Grade:
Excellent
Laser Inscription
Registry Number:
GIA 16354621
Shape & Cutting Style:
Round Brilliant
Natural Diamond:
Not Synthetic
Beauty is one thing, but certainty is everything. A GIA report is the most technologically advanced diamond evaluation possible.
It gives you a unique blueprint of your diamond’s attributes and an indisputable record of its quality.
As creators of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA is known for the kind of unbiased
scientific information that has guided diamond buyers for generations.
To learn more about this unique resource, please visit W W W. G I A 4 C S . G I A . E D U
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING.
ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011
getty 1 / Peter Dazeley
ATC
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
H
W
WATCHES
ATC
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
H
W
WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
IS IT OKAY
TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH
AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH?
IMAGE COURTESY OF TW STEEL
If you love it, why not?
Unless you’re talking about a tacky
plastic watch, most of today’s better
sports watches are thin enough to
wear as an everyday watch, and offer
features that most of us appreciate
even at home or in the office. These
can include water resistance, built-in
chronographs, readable dials and
various subdials, calendars and other
complications.
That said, there’s nothing classier
than a beautiful dress watch and for
spring 2011, classical elegance is all
the rage. Our suggestion: build a
watch wardrobe that includes both
sports and dress watches and
alternate according to the occasion,
and your mood.
WHAT ARE
MECHANICAL
WATCHES AND WHY
ARE THEY SO
EXPENSIVE?
As opposed to quartz watches that function
electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a
spring which must be periodically wound. A series of
gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back
and forth at a constant rate. A device called an
escapement releases the wheels with each swing of
the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a
constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s
technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the
expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the
maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the
intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine
materials.
But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a
mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!
I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950 S ;
IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?
GETTY 1/ RTI IMAGES
T H E D E C I S I O N T O R E S T O R E A V I N TA G E T I M E P I E C E is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my
grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless.
That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve
made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a
qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older
timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the
movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques
and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen.
In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the
same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the
watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the
work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the
technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in
some cases, make the part by hand.
Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored
vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or
with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement.
40
raymond-weil.com
| freelancer collection
WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
I'M ABOUT TO INVEST IN A WATCH AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
MORE ABOUT ITS COMPLICATIONS. CAN YOU HELP?
Moon Phase Subdial
Strap
30-Minute Register
for Chronograph
Second Counter
for Chronograph
Lug
Hour Marker or Index
Repeating Slide
(Chimes Time Aloud
When Activated)
Start/Stop for Chronograph
Minute Hand
Hour Hand
Crown
Second Hand
Date Indicator
Day of Week Indicator
Year Indicator
Reset for Chronograph
Bezel
Month Indicator
Dial (Below the Hands)
ILLUSTRATION BY HARRY BATES; INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOHN HORNE
12-Hour Register
for Chronograph
Crystal (Above the Hands)
Understanding the parts and functions of a timepiece can help you select the
style that’s right for you. It’s also helpful later, when your watch requires
service or repair. This particular model has both time-telling and time-keeping
capabilities. The chronograph, for time-keeping, is essentially an advanced stopwatch.
42
IMPERIALE COLLECTION
by Laurie Kahle
ATC
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
H
W
FOCUS: WHAT’S NEW
FASHIONABLY
ON TIME
CURVES AHEAD
The French word délice translates to delight, an emotion that Cartier intends to conjure with its new ladies’ watch collection, Délices de Cartier, which launches in
June. Comparing the lozenge-shaped watch to a baker’s confection, Cartier once again demonstrates its design mastery by manipulating basic shapes to present
something new and aesthetically intriguing. By positioning the smoothly-tapered, oval-shaped case on the diagonal across the wrist, designers created a
curvaceous and feminine timepiece available in three sizes in 18K rose or white gold. The watch exudes a different personality depending on whether you choose
the shimmering gold bracelet or sleek toile strap, and, of course, with varying amounts of brilliant-cut diamonds sprinkled on the case and dial. Amid Cartier’s
highly impressive lineup of innovative complicated timepieces this year, Délices de Cartier is a chic reminder of the simple pleasure of a beautiful design.
44
With its soft lines and subtle alternating finishes, the Linea is
a timeless icon of femininity that naturally becomes associated with life’s most beautiful highlights. Each Linea is fitted
with an interchangeable strap.www.baume-et-mercier.com
ATC
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
H
W
FOCUS: WHAT’S NEW
LINE DANCE
PORTOFINO PORTFOLIO
Baume & Mercier revisits its Linea collection this year, updating the fashiondriven model with a fresh outlook for a new era. Originally launched in the
1980s, Linea has been modernized with a new, larger dimension, a mix of
polished and satin finishes, and a redesigned bracelet, which can easily be
changed to suit your whims on any given day. Switch from a metal bracelet
to black satin, black calfskin, or a stylish wraparound brown calfskin strap
without having to use a tool, thanks to a clever new clasp. You can also opt
between a 27mm or 32mm case, a choice of black, mother of pearl, or silvertoned dials, and a bezel with or without diamonds. From a functional point
of view, Linea has added a date and offers a quartz chronograph version
which tracks elapsed minutes, seconds and tenths of seconds on three
counters. The showstoppers of the collection are the 32mm models with
mother of pearl dials that come with an additional black satin or calfskin
strap. These top-of-the-line pieces offer a choice between a mechanical
automatic movement with a sapphire crystal case back showcasing its
decorated rotor, or a quartz chronograph that sparkles with 1.4 carats of
diamonds set on the bezel and bracelet.
IWC recaptures the free spirit of la dolce vita with a revamped Portofino line
that evokes the glamour and allure of the famed seaside village that has been
a jet-set hotspot since the 1950s. This year, IWC focused its attention on the
brand’s entry-level, classic collection with four distinct models: an understated
basic Automatic, a sporty Chronograph, a practical Dual Time for globetrotters,
and the oversize Hand-Wound Eight Days model powered by a new IWCmanufactured movement that is the same size as a pocket watch movement.
Hailed as the flagship of the Portofino family, the rugged and reliable HandWound Eight Days pays homage to the original 1984 Portofino, which infused
a wristwatch with classical pocket watch sensibilities.
To mark the revitalization of the Portofino collection, IWC invited a dozen
international celebrity fans—including Cate Blanchett, Kevin Spacey,
Matthew Fox and Eric Dane—to participate in a photo shoot with famed
photographer Peter Lindbergh, another high-profile IWC devotee. The
stunning black-and-white shots portray a retro vibe as they depict a behindthe-scenes view of a movie set against the picturesque backdrop of Portofino.
The resulting photos will be displayed in a traveling exhibition that will stop
at prominent cities around the world.
46
DECO DIAMOND TRI TONE
by Joseph Ungoco
ATC
IT’S
ABOUT
TIME
H
W
FOCUS: FIRST PERSON
HAND-ME-DOWNS WELCOME
A MILESTONE WATCH PASSED AMONG FAMILY
GIVES THE PHRASE NEW MEANING.
A
s my plane touched down at LAX, the
pilot cheerily reminded us to set our
watches back three hours to the local
time. I glanced at my hand-me-down Rolex, my
father’s stainless steel Air-King Oyster
Perpetual, bought for his swearing in as a U.S.
citizen on July 4, 1965. This watch had kept him
on time for more than a decade. I honestly
couldn’t recall the last time I had worn this
watch on a plane, but this would be its last
transcontinental crossing on my wrist.
My father gave me “The Air-King”, his very
first Rolex, on my 11th birthday. Two months
prior, to commemorate his own birthday, he had
“invested in” an 18 karat yellow gold and
stainless steel Datejust with Jubilee bracelet,
pulling ahead of his stainless steel-clad siblings
in our family version of the Rolex Stakes. (The
Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my
father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand,
but the ’80s brought my family’s obsession to a
whole new level.)
Later that year, my father took me with
him to the watchmaker’s shop, where we had
the Air-King cleaned, the crystal polished, and
the luminous hour markers and hands repainted—an annual tradition.
Just as I thought we were ready to leave, the watchmaker came forward
with a green leather box stamped with a gold coronet. Inside was the
matching women’s version of my father’s new
watch. That summer, my mother handed her
stainless steel Rolex with the Oyster bracelet—an
engagement present from my father—down to
her younger sister for her birthday.
Years later, before my 30th birthday, I called
my watch dealer about buying myself a special
watch—perhaps a brand new Submariner. But
when I arrived at his shop, he had found the
perfect tribute to my milestone birthday: a watch
exactly as old as me. It was a mint condition 1969
18 karat yellow gold Rolex Date with graduated
Oyster bracelet. Its South American seller swore
it had sat untouched in his father’s safety deposit
box for at least 25 years! I was assured that after
a quick swipe of my credit card, a slightly longer
FBI check (for the watch, not me) and a thorough
inspection (again for the watch), this gorgeous
timepiece would be mine. My “new” Rolex
arrived just in time to accompany me to my
birthday party.
I lived happily with my Rolexes for several
years, until the event that prompted this story: my
godson’s birthday. The fourth of six boys, he was
well acquainted with the phrase “hand-me-down”,
but I think that my present to him that day—a green leather box with a gold
coronet, the Air-King safely tucked inside—may have changed his opinion of that
phrase forever. At least I hope so…
The Bond films of
the ’60s and ’70s
introduced my father
and his three brothers
to the Rolex brand.
48
CEO
GOLIATH
THE NEW
COLLECTION
SPEED
Grand Sport
THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND
TECHNOLOGY BY DAVID A. ROSE
I
on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died
within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born.
Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956,
many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda
Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550
Spyder identical to the one James Dean planned to race 55 years ago.
Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of
motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages
of coffee table books, in museums or in movies.
Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name
in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the
world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an
enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate
the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter
Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch
U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is
Top: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the
pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. Center left: A Rolex
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham
Wallis. Center right: Some of the many cars raced or built by Dan
Gurney. Bottom right: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno.
50
ROLEX / STEPHAN COOPER
t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving
to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of
the car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that
weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as
intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As
they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the
opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-
Left: Luc Slijpen from the Netherlands stands next to his
original, unrestored 1925 Type 35 Bugatti. Bottom left:
Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The
Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence. Below: Patrick
Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP.
fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these
magnificent events.”
Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13
countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at
Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have
been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last
year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand
Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured
the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.)
At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick
Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd
on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always
a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay
Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a
true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who
was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American
racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula
1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only
American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in
1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa Francorchamps in the
beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most
well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and
admiration of peers and race fans around the world.
As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were
fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the
next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport,
and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t
thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role
model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through
traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.”
Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing
and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the
cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy
as we were,” said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we
all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and
smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each
other and new generations appreciating similar things.”
The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto
Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines
combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a
showcase for luxury and glamour.
Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the
atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions,
cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance,
grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to
enjoy. The week-long festival of automobile culture culminates with the
internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where some of
the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function,
history and style.
As trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo
and participants head for home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula
returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making
the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable.
52
PROPOSALS
Gloves at the Shoe
M
e, the dental hygienist and lifelong Ohio State girl; Daniel, the
dental student and die-hard Notre Dame boy. I always thought
“it” would happen after he moved to Indiana, where he planned
to practice dentistry in the shadows of the Golden Dome of Notre Dame.
We had a date to celebrate Daniel’s completion of his dental school
clinical requirements, and he kept the location a secret. He mentioned that
he needed to stop by his office, located in Ohio State University’s Ohio
Stadium (The Horseshoe), after dinner to drop off a Secret Santa gift for the
exchange he would not be able to attend.
The night began innocently enough at Burgundy Room, a trendy wine
and tapas restaurant. Surprisingly we hadn’t been there since our first date.
Daniel pretended to be shocked too.
After dinner we made our way to campus to drop off the “gift.” I
noticed the stadium lights were on; the lights are never on. Daniel looked at
me with mischievous eyes. “Do you think we can sneak onto the field?” I
balked, not wanting to get in trouble. We made our way to the north
stadium entrance and the padlock was open. Daniel exclaimed with
confidence, “It’s open… C’mon, Hayley!”
I was carrying Daniel’s Secret Santa gift as we walked down the ramp
onto the field. I couldn’t believe I was doing this, putting my head down,
trying not to get caught. Despite my protest, we finally got to the 50-yard
line, right inside the Block O, and faced each other. (You may need to be an
Ohio State fan to realize how big of a deal it is to be inside the Block O, let
alone getting a Notre Dame graduate to join you.) “Crazy, isn’t it?” Daniel
said, glancing around the stadium. I thought to myself, “I can’t wait to tell
everyone that we snuck into the Shoe!”
I was cold at this point. My fingers were numb and he knew it. He
smiled. “Why don’t you open that present? I’ll get another one for the party;
it’ll be an early Christmas present. I got it in Italy and you look like you could
use them about now.” I eagerly began ripping into the package, and before
I could even lift the lid, my frigid hands dropped the box. Finally, I opened
the box and my breath faltered.
Leather gloves, black and tan, from Florence, Italy. Gorgeous. But it was
the sparkle that emanated from the third finger on the left glove that
stunned me. I was so surprised; he was down on one knee, there was a ring,
and I was saying yes.
We hugged, we twirled, we laughed; he yelled at his friend, hiding out
in the stands, to come down to take more photos. He arranged for it all: the
lights, open padlock, hidden photographer… the whole nine yards, pun
intended.
Jewelry is inextricably connected to life’s most memorable moments. The
Jewelry Information Center’s Ultimate Proposal Contest allowed couples
nationwide to submit their special proposal stories at www.JIC.org.
Consumers entered more than 1,200 stories and over 6,000 people cast their
votes over 10 days. Winner Hayley Wood and her fiancé Daniel won a trip for
two to Santorini, Greece, along with a stunning platinum diamond necklace.
54
IMAGE COURTESY OF JIC
A WINNING ENGAGEMENT MOMENT BY HAYLEY WOOD
FIRST PERSON
Lucky Charms
W
hen it comes to wearing jewelry for good luck, I’m not one to
break with tradition. In ancient times Nordic soldiers wore
runes to protect themselves during battle. In Cleopatra’s days,
amulets of scarabs, rounded on one side and bearing words or images of
blessing on the other, were symbols of renewal and prosperity.
Even in modern times, our accessories symbolize good luck: Peruse
jewelry in a Turkish bazaar, or even a shop in New York City’s East Village,
and you’ll find numerous little nazars literally looking back at you with
bands of concentric color—expressions of protection from the evil eye.
But not all jewels derive their status as “lucky charms” from cultural
mythology. Sometimes, it’s more personal. My mother, for example, has
been known to sleep with her lucky pin on when her football team needs a
big win. And these days, I’ve got my own personal talisman as well.
Last Thanksgiving my grandmother gave all her grandchildren,
including me, quite a surprise. She said, “I was planning to leave my jewelry
for you after I pass on. But instead, I want to give it to you now, for the
pleasure of sharing.”
To my sister she gave a large opal ring that sparks green and gold like
fireflies on a midsummer’s night. To my brother she offered her father’s ring:
a gutsy red garnet set in a geometric Art Deco band.
And to me, for no reason other than the fact that I was her first
grandchild, she gave her engagement ring—the ring that has been catching
my eye over crumb cakes and knitting needles since I was born. The band is
a buttery matte gold, soft and romantic like a close-up of a heroine from an
old movie. The diamond is princess cut, clear and full of flame.
An engagement ring may not be a universal symbol of good luck, but
to me, this particular ring is very lucky. Here’s why.
When my grandparents first got married, there was no engagement
ring. My Pop and Gram were both from working class families: My
grandmother’s dad was a city cop who married an Irish-Catholic orphan. My
grandfather’s parents were vaudeville hopefuls who never made it big but
who look brilliantly happy in the one photograph of them that remains.
It wasn’t until my grandparents’ 30th anniversary that Pop got down on
one knee, with a real engagement ring this time, and asked, “Will you marry
me?” Decades later, they’re still together.
My fiancé likes to say, “You make your own luck,” meaning that scarabs,
runes or family heirlooms won’t change a person’s fate. And he’s probably
right. But my grandmother’s ring gives me joy, strength and hope. And
what is a lucky charm, if not a symbol of those things?
Call me superstitious, but when I walk down the aisle next summer, I’ll
be wearing my grandmother’s ring—my private and personal little token of
good fortune. Just in case.
56
TRUNK ARCHIVE / HORACIO SALINAS
JUST IN CASE… BY LISA DALE
Finally, a navigation system
without that annoying voice.
“I’m not saying a word.”
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn
if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da
Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with
flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.
Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) |
Flyback function | Automatic IWC
double-pawl winding system |
Date display | Antireflective
sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back
cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel
© D.YURMAN 2011
TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2011