Accent/The Magazine of Life`s Celebrations

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2012
CELEBRATE
SPRING!
Fashion Favorites
Watchmaking:
The Next
Generation
Last Bid for Love
INSIDE:
MEET
MARCO
BICEGO
SOMERSET COLLECTION, TROY
ORCHARD MALL, WEST BLOOMFIELD
TWELVE OAKS MALL, NOVI
DEARFRIENDS,
As spring breathes new life into the world around us, we at Tapper’s are reflecting on the exciting new
opportunities that lie ahead for our business. Next month, we will be introducing a new brand concept,
Marlee’s by Tapper’s, which will open in Twelve Oaks Mall with a focus on sophisticated, stylish, highquality women’s accessories at a very appealing price point. This issue features a special introduction
to Marlee’s written by Marla Tapper Young and Leora Tapper, the faces and voices behind the new
venture.
The vibrant hues of spring flowers beginning to peek through the frozen ground are mirrored by the
beautiful new designs in fine jewelry, precision timepieces and gifts that you will find in the pages of
Accent and at all three Tapper’s locations. Bursting with color and sparkle, you will find a dazzling array
of choices as you look for gifts that will Mark the Moment® of Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the many
graduations that take place at this time of the year.
We recently “sprung forward,” setting our watches to Daylight Savings Time. In this issue of Accent,
we are excited to present a special section devoted to the design and history of some of the most
prestigious and trendsetting watch brands in the world, all of which you can find at Tapper’s.
Enjoy your journey through Accent and by all means, please take some time to smell the flowers as they
begin to bloom!
Sincerely,
Howard Tapper
Steven Tapper
Mark Tapper
1
Marla Tapper Young
Contents spring/summer 2012
DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY
WEST BLOOMFIELD
ORCHARD MALL
337 ORCHARD LAKE ROAD
WEST BLOOMFIELD, MI 48322
PHONE: (248) 932-7700
FAX: (248) 932-7717
NOVI
TWELVE OAKS MALL
27716 NOVI ROAD
NOVI, MI 48377
PHONE: (248) 465-1800
FAX: (248) 465-1818
26
TROY
SOMERSET COLLECTION NORTH
2800 WEST BIG BEAVER
TROY, MI 48084
PHONE: (248) 649-2000
FAX: (248) 649-5076
WWW.TAPPERS.COM
FEATURES
CEO
HOWARD TAPPER
1 Welcome Letter
PRESIDENT
MARK TAPPER
4 Community
VICE PRESIDENTS
STEVEN TAPPER
MARLA TAPPER YOUNG
6 Spotlight: Leading the Tapper’s Team
8 Happenings
C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R
JEFFREY GARDEN
10 Introducing Marlee’s by Tapper’s
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
ROBERT HUTTER
12 Best Bets
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R
KARYNNE NAFTOLIN
22 Designers: Marco Bicego
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
TRACIE VOLETTI
24 Designers: Penny Preville
26 Profile: Forevermark
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P
28 Profile: John Hardy
PUBLISHER
STU NIFOUSSI
30 Red Carpet
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
32 Trends: Renewal
50 Perfect Gems
54 Spirits: Gin Blossoms
MANAGING EDITOR
JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
56 Wellness: Haute Healthcare
PROJECT MANAGER
LISA MONTEMORRA
58 Travel: Eco-Immersion
DESIGNERS
CYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
60 End Page: Last Bid for Love
PRODUCTION MANAGER
PEG EADIE
WATCH SECTION
PRESIDENT AND CEO
BRITTON JONES
36 Watches at Tapper’s
CHAIRMAN AND COO
MAC BRIGHTON
38 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum
42 Winders: Winding it Up
46 Profile: Michele Watches
48 Collecting: Time on His Side
2
Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
depending on size, quality and availability. Jewelry has been
enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While we
have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information
in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions.
Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc,
P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-8528175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018,
212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the
publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business
Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office.
Printed In The U.S.A.
FOREVERMARK DIAMOND NECKLACE. COVER ILLUSTRATION BY DARIA JABENKO.
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
HANS GSCHLIESSER
COMMUNITY
T APPE R’S 20TH ANN UAL
C OAT D RIVE
Coats were distributed to many organizations, including
Orchards Children’s Services, the Detroit Housing
Commission, Detroit Public Schools, Baldwin Church
Center, Grace Centers for Hope, Mercy Primary Care
Center and Kids Kicking Cancer.
This year, Tapper’s annual coat drive surpassed any previous
year’s goals by collecting and distributing close to 4,000
warm winter coats, gloves, hats, scarves and boots. This
substantial increase in our totals was due in large part to a
partnership with Morgan Stanley Smith Barney’s Birmingham,
Bloomfield Hills and Troy offices, whose employees raised
money internally and presented Tapper’s with a check for
$16,018.20 to be used to purchase coats and other winter
weather clothing items.
MAKING TIME
FOR A GOOD
CAUSE
In addition to funds raised by Morgan Stanley Smith Barney
employees, Tapper’s customers donated hundreds of coats
and made cash donations towards the coat drive. Steven
Tapper reflected on the generosity of Morgan Stanley Smith
Barney, as well as all of the customers and community
members who supported the Tapper’s Coat Drive. “Every
person who helped this coat drive, by collecting coats,
donating money or going through their own closets, should
realize that they made a tremendous difference in people’s
lives this winter. Every child who is now walking to school
with a coat, hat and gloves knows that someone cares about
them, really cares, that they be warm and comfortable in
the cold – that is the real gift.”
“Making Time for a Good Cause” is a Tapper’s charitable
initiative which provides complimentary simple watch
battery changes in exchange for a suggested minimum
donation ($10) to charity*. The program benefits a different
charity every quarter. Since the program’s inception almost
two years ago, Tapper’s has raised thousands of dollars
for causes such as Kids Kicking Cancer, the Detroit Public
Schools, Tapper’s Coat Drive, the John D. Dingell VA Medical
Center and the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation.
“Springing forward” is the perfect opportunity to change
your watch batteries and take advantage of this wonderful
program, so gather your watches* together and head into
any one of Tapper’s three locations to “make time for a
good cause.”
*
4
Limit three watches per customer please.
SPOTLIGHT
LEADING THE TAPPER’S TEAM
One of the reasons that Tapper’s is able to provide such a high level of service to its clients is the
company’s devotion to recruiting leaders in the field of luxury sales and service. “To be a part
of the Tapper’s team,” explains Mark Tapper, President of Tapper’s Diamonds and Fine Jewelry,
“you have to be a truly exceptional human being. We will accept nothing less than extraordinary
from our team, because we want to provide that to our clients.”
PAUL RUJAN Manager, Tapper’s Somerset Collection. Five years with Tapper’s.
The only member of the managerial triumvirate who hails from Michigan, Paul began his career
at Tapper’s managing the company’s Twelve Oaks store, going on to become the first manager
at the Somerset location which opened in 2010. A huge Detroit Lions fan, Paul came to Tapper’s
with 23 years of sales, training and managerial experience, and he brings excitement, dedication
and knowledge to his team every day.
Paul continually expresses his appreciation for the fact that at Tapper’s, the primary focus is on
providing excellent service to clients. “I am very passionate about what I do and really enjoy having
fun with our clients, making sure that their experience at Tapper’s is uniquely wonderful.”
ROBERT ARTELT Manager, Tapper’s West Bloomfield. Two years with Tapper’s.
Robert Artelt joins the Tapper’s management team with extensive experience in the world of
luxury goods and service — as former Senior Vice President of Retail and Marketing for Mikimoto
and Director of Fine Art Sales for Princess, Cunard and Holland America cruise lines. Having
grown up in Chicago, joining Tapper’s brings Robert back to his Midwest roots, and he, his wife
and daughter now call Michigan home. While in Chicago, Robert’s passion for charitable work was
evident through his work with the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Chicago chapter of U.N.I.C.E.F., the M.S.
Society and the Girl Scouts.
When he’s not working and building relationships with his clients, Robert notes that “while music,
dance and the arts keep our family busy [his wife is an opera singer], football is our favorite
pastime.” Robert’s family follows college teams and, of course, the Detroit Lions.
“Tapper’s is a wonderful family and organization,” says Robert, “which enables me to bring my
worldwide experience not only to the company but to each of my clients, as well.”
ROBERT VIOLANTE Manager, Tapper’s Twelve Oaks Mall. Five months with Tapper’s.
Originally a Southerner, Robert Violante began his career in his hometown of Atlanta, Georgia,
where he was educated at Georgia Perimeter College and went on to join the Shane Company —
a large, family-owned jeweler known nationally for their strength in the engagement ring business.
While serving as manager of the Shane Company’s flagship store in Engelwood, Colorado, Robert
was named Store Manager of the Year and was rewarded with the opportunity to practice with
the Colorado Rockies and throw out the first pitch at a subsequent home game. “I’ve been a fan
ever since,” confesses Robert. “Also, I got Tebowed — go Broncos!”
The father of three children under six, Robert admits to being a “busy guy” at home — and even
busier in his role at Tapper’s Twelve Oaks store in Novi. “I think that my greatest strength is the
passion I have for developing a sales team and helping them achieve growth and consistency. I
think that consistency is what separates a good manager from a great manager.” Go, Robert!
6
PEACE OF MIND STARTS
WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.
Carat Weight
1.53
Color Grade
E
Clarity Grade
VS1
Cut Grade
Excellent
Laser Inscription
Registry Number
GIA 16354621
Natural Diamond
Not Synthetic
A GIA report is certainty from the source.
As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™
GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific.
A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.
Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu
THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.
HA PPENINGS
PANE RISTI OF THE
W ORLD UNITE!
A PASSION FO R
DAVID YURMA N
In November, Tapper’s hosted an exclusive private client event
at the Corner Bar at Birmingham’s tony Townsend Hotel to
celebrate our relationship with Officine Panerai, the Italian watch
company whose timepieces, originally designed for the Italian
navy, have skyrocketed to celebrity status over the past decade.
Tapper’s West Bloomfield store hosted a wonderful evening
devoted to a passion for David Yurman. Elegant hors d’oeuvres
and cocktails were enjoyed by guests as the newest David
Yurman designs were presented. A phenomenon in the
world of style and fashion, David Yurman is internationally
recognized as America’s leading designer of fine jewelry and
luxury timepieces.
Months later, Tapper’s client base of Paneristi (already plural
— think “biscotti” or “manicotti”) — those individuals whose
passion is for all things Panerai — are still buzzing about this
exciting evening. Panerai enthusiasts were treated to a sneak
peek at special-edition timepieces from the 2011 Geneva
launch, as well as the opportunity to enjoy fine wines, scotches
and gourmet “man” fare such as fajitas and hand-carved meats.
Mingling among the Paneristi (some of whom had traveled from
out of state to attend) were Rafael Alvarez, President of Officine
Panerai, Chris Sclafani, Tapper’s Panerai representative, as well as
Tapper’s owners, buyers and associates. Steve Smith, head watch
buyer for Tapper’s, noted that “guests arrived up to 30 minutes
early for the event, just to be the first in line to try on one of the
special-edition pieces.”
With a background as an artist, David Yurman has
revolutionized the way people think about, wear and collect
jewelry. Created in sterling silver, 18K gold, diamonds,
precious gemstones, South Sea and Tahitian pearls, David
Yurman’s masterpieces are
collected by women and
men around the world.
Shop the David Yurman
collection at our Twelve
Oaks Mall (Novi) and West
Bloomfield locations.
We invite you to view a wonderful selection of Panerai timepieces
at our West Bloomfield and Somerset locations.
8
W
E
LCOME!
to M ar lee’s b y Tap p e r’ s
We could not be more excited to introduce you to Marlee’s by Tapper’s, a
new concept in styling and accessories. As sisters-in-law, we are really close and
do almost everything together. We love to travel, cook, and most of the time
just hang out and talk. And, like most women, we also love to shop together!
Leora Tapper and Marla Tapper Young
Because we work so closely together at Tapper’s, we developed a vision to open
a store — somewhere we would love to shop. We are always looking for ways
to update our looks with minimal investment. We thought it would be so much fun to create a space where friends, mothers and
daughters, sisters (or sisters-in-law!) could shop together and have fun finding new ways to update their styles.
The two of us LOVE to style each other — and although we have different tastes, each of us has our own unique sense of fashion.
We both share a love for jewelry, accessories and business, and that’s how the idea for Marlee’s was born. One of us will throw
a cashmere scarf and long necklace on the other, and our look (and mood) will shift in an instant! That feeling is precisely what
Marlee’s is going to offer; our stylists will always be available to show you how to wear something new and integrate it with what
you already own. It’s so much easier to be adventurous with style if someone shows you how.
We love the creativity of shopping anywhere from art galleries to street artists, discovering interesting and unique types of jewelry
and accessories made of different, sometimes unexpected materials. Everything we have at Marlee’s will be like that one “amazing”
find you made at a weekend art show in the park. You’ll notice on this page that our motif contains four hearts, each representing
a different idea: people, culture, place and craft. We have been searching the world for unique and fabulous items, but there will
also be a significant part of our store devoted to Michigan-based designers and products. Our state is home to such a wealth of
innovation in the world of fashion, design and style; we’re really looking forward to the opportunity to showcase this local talent.
Whether you are 25 or 65, we promise that you will find something at Marlee’s that’s going to excite you. When we are selecting
accessories for Marlee’s, first and foremost we pay attention to detail. Whether we’re looking at jewelry, handbags, sunglasses, belts
or scarves, we inspect every aspect of how the item is made to ensure that we will be providing our clients with only the finest
quality and craftsmanship. Every piece you see in our store is something that we would each want to own personally.
We can’t wait to see you when we open our doors this May at Twelve Oaks Mall in Novi. We invite you to come in, look around,
XOXO
Marla & Leora
FAR FROM
MELLOWYELLOW
THE FIERY BEAUTY OF FANCY YELLOW DIAMONDS
COMES TO LIFE IN RINGS SO SPECTACULAR,
THEY WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.
Rare and unique, fancy yellow diamonds are an unexpected guest at the gemstone soiree.
Cut correctly, a fancy yellow diamond will look as if someone has captured the
essence of the sun and placed it directly on your finger. Tapper’s is proud to be a
direct importer of fancy yellow diamonds. Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist
at (248) 932-7700 in order to schedule a private viewing.
12
Perhaps that is the reason that they’ve become the classic choice of accessory to
complement a bride’s wedding attire. Mikimoto is renowned for crafting timeless,
elegant pearl jewelry using the finest pearls in the world. Only the best cultured pearls
(5% of all pearls) are deemed worthy enough to carry the Mikimoto name.
A perfect choice for the graduate, the new bride or for Mother’s Day, a gift of pearls
is certain to be cherished for years to come.
Lariat necklace with diamond clasp, $6,590
Pearl bracelet, $1,080
Pearl and diamond studs, $1,040
Classic pearl strand with pearl clasp, $3,280. Matching studs, $600
13
PEA RL S ,G LORIOUSPEARLS
In ancient Greece, it was believed that pearls were associated with marital harmony.
FROM TAPPER’S
T IMELESSMOMENTS
A COLLECTION OF DIAMOND RINGS
THAT TRANSCEND THE ORDINARY
Because your love for each other is precious and unique, Tapper’s has created a signature line
of diamond engagement rings, Tapper’s Timeless Moments, that transcends the ordinary.
While three distinct collections within the line offer different styles and influence, every
Timeless Moments engagement ring evokes a classic look with a modern interpretation.
With the assistance of one of our highly trained diamond specialists, you are certain to find the
ring of your dreams within the Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection. A direct diamond
importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and quality for diamonds as radiant as your love.
14
or anniversary band has no beginning and no end.
What happens in between those two points,
however, is simply a matter of style!
Dramatic, elegant, refined…whatever you decide.
with a stunning precious band from Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection?
This page features a selection of the styles we have available,
but literally hundreds more are ready and waiting to greet you
at one of our three convenient locations.
Not sure which look is right for you? One of our experienced associates
will be delighted to help you discover the perfect ring –
the one that says “I forever do.”
15
THEB ANDS
This year, why not renew your love (or declare it for the first time)
S TRIKE UP
A symbol of eternal love and commitment, a wedding
W H A T ’ S ALL THE
HOOPLA
A
H
A BOUT ?
I
G
B
C
F
D
E
If you’re looking for a spring trend, here it is: hoops are
a great new look to add to your wardrobe this season. Stick with a traditional
look or opt for a funkier interpretation of the classic hoop earring — upside down or twisted, anyone?
A. Diamond hoops in 14K, $2,999 B. Diamond huggies in 14K, $1,899 C. Roberto Coin diamond hoops in 18K, $4,300
D. Ippolita hoops in sterling silver with quartz, $495 E. Diamond hoops in 18K rose gold, $1,499
F. Lana earrings in 14K, $280 G. Lana hoops with emeralds in 14K, $1,380 H. Two-tone hoops in 14K, $549
I. Penny Preville diamond and sapphire hoops, $4,355 J. John Hardy sterling silver bamboo hoops, $325
16
J
DO YOU
STACK
UP?
The beauty of bangles is that you can easily
create a completely different look by adding,
subtracting or mixing and matching. For a
modern look, wear bangles from different
designers that have a common theme — silver
with amethyst, for example, from John Hardy
and Ippolita, make a remarkably good looking
couple. Or choose yellow gold, white gold and a
couple of two-tone bangles to bridge the gap!
Add sparkle and glamour with diamonds and
gemstones, or keep the look straightforward
and simple with gold or silver.
Top to bottom:
Roberto Coin, $3,300
Ippolita, $325
Spotlight Collection by Tapper’s
in black and white diamonds, $4,999
John Hardy, $495
Gregg Ruth, $10,870
Ippolita, $1,795
Charles Krypell, $1,255
Penny Preville, $10,905
Gurhan, $795
17
America’s leading fine jewelry and luxury watch brand.
Artistic inspiration is at the very core of the company’s foundation.
Fusing art, fashion and fine jewelry into a signature design concept
was nothing short of revolutionary within the jewelry industry.
From the left:
CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and blue topaz, $2,650
RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and moon quartz, $375
CABLE WRAP RING Blackened sterling silver and lemon citrine, $1,450
RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $375
PETITE WHEATON RING Sterling silver and prasiolite, $450
RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and Hampton blue topaz, $375
CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $1,700
18
CLASSIC WATCH 30MM
Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $5,200
CLASSIC WATCH 30MM
18K gold case with integrated cable, $30,000
CLASSIC WATCH 38MM
Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $6,200
DUO TONE CLASSIC WATCH 38MM
Stainless steel/18K gold case with integrated cable, $8,000
19
SPOTLIG HT
F
D
C
E
A. Be my jelly bean…or wear a sweet Michele watch by the same name.
In rose stainless steel with white rubber strap, $345.
B. Just in time – the sporty G-Shock Casio watch, $260.
TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTION
G
It’s not always black or white – sometimes the occasion calls for both!
Dramatic jewelry in black and white diamonds set in 14K white gold.
C. Pendant, $1,449. D. “V” hoop earrings, $1,349. E. Flower ring, $1,699. F. Band, $1,099.
G. Tassel necklace with black and white diamonds, seed pearls, $599.
H. Cufflinks – complimentary engraving, stainless steel, $84.
H
B
A
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ON STYLE
E
H
F
D
G
From John Hardy’s Classic Chain collection, men’s beaded bracelets with sterling silver
detail in a variety of colorations, on black Mokuba cord.
Shown: A. Black onyx with tiger eye. B. Onyx with malachite. C. Lapis. Each, $195.
D. Go for the gold with this delicate 14K necklace featuring two diamond discs,
from Meira T. designs, $990. E. Coordinating earrings, $1,045.
FROM TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTION
Take one for the team! Better yet, take two. Support your favorite team in style
with these handsome items. An ideal graduation or groomsmen’s gift!
F. Money clip, $45 each. G. Cufflinks (pair), $60 each.
H. Carry a photo of the two of you close to your heart. (Sooo sweet!)
Lovely vintage-style lockets are crafted in sterling silver, chain included, $139.99 each.
I
I. Disarmingly charming! Stack up multiples of these stainless steel
cable bracelets with black diamond buckle clasps, $139.99 each.
A
B
C
21
DESIGNERS
I
COLOR POPS
WARM GOLD AND SATURATED
SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO
BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION
TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
The bold spheres
and jewels of the
Africa collection
are tangible and
pronounced, yet
remarkably light.
n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained
unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost
all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic
to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s
history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between
collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.
“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our
customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are
always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an
emotional feeling.”
This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,
filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as
absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry
wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired
by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava
of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold
jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by
African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that
evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and
often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the
destinations that inspire them.
When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the
chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer
league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,
exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find
in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,
he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”
GETTING PERSONAL
What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice,
so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration.
What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual
and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani.
What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!
Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to
debut my newest collections.
22
A ONCE IN A LIFETIME
OPPORTUNITY TO MEET
ITALIAN DESIGNER AT AN EXCLUSIVE
TRUNK SHOW AND COCKTAIL PARTY
FRIDAY, MAY 11, 2012
6PM - 9PM
TAPPER’S WEST BLOOMFIELD
THE MOST EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF
MARCO BICEGO’S EXTRAORDINARY
DESIGNS WILL BE AT OUR STORE ONLY
DURING THIS SPECIAL EVENT.
MARCO WILL PERSONALLY SIGN EACH
PIECE OF JEWELRY PURCHASED THAT
EVENING WITH A HAND ENGRAVER.
PLEASE RSVP TO 248.865.6093
23
MA RCO BICEGO
MARCO BICEGO, WORLD-RENOWNED
...sensuous, extraordinarily
d
l bbeautiful
f l
jewelry which blends old world
Italian hand craftsmanship with
tradition, passion, and imagination.
DESIGNERS
Signature Style
PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE AND
FABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
W
orld renowned for its elegance,
innovation and unique attention to
detail, Penny Preville jewelry has
been worn by fashionable women from Jackie
Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an
exclusive interview with the designer.
How did you first get interested in
jewelry design?
As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every
Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a
self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park
Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing
artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.
But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,
overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:
exquisite pieces from different eras that my
grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try
them on, dream about them. My other grandmother
was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was
my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I
loved art history, re-living different eras.
Describe your jewelry and the process to
create it.
Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,
elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:
beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…
My jewelry is made by artisans here in New
York City: we start with an original model and
most of the work is done by hand: engraving,
stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on
the piece, the process can take a few days to a
few months.
What inspires your designs?
Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.
Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,
Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)
How would you describe your personal
style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?
There are two sides to me: very driven and
practical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.
My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a wide
scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie
events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear
everyday. (It’s part of my body!)
I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds
from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a
blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got
from her mother…
24
You work with your husband and two
sons: how hard is it to combine business
and family?
It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have
separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay
(who started the business with me) manages
financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)
and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and will
hopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boys
to join us: growing up, they were into sports and
showed little interest in the business.
What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?
Long chains, statement earrings, bangles and
cuffs to mix and match, collectibles, different
stones, blackened metals and lots of color
(especially blues!). I also believe in the mystical
powers of certain stones—for strength or for
protection.
What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?
It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides
insight into who she is as a person: spiritual,
sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a
woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect
piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.
A N N E B OWEN
AT EL I ER A I M EE
C L A I R E P ET T I B O N E
I A N S T UA RT
LIANCARLO
PAT T I S
R EE M AC R A
V ER A WA N G
www.mariabrida lcouture.com
248.539.3090
Inside of the Orchard Ma ll
PROFILE
THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND
THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS.
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
QUINTESSENTIAL
DIAMONDS
F
or those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark,
part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expert
for 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly
sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained master
craftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bear
the Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we among
them) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.
Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, these
superlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a unique
identification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of the
inscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)
and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.
Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal quality
of the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and added
security. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute in
Antwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity and
accuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, your
guarantee of excellence and authenticity.
Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermark
diamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the company
goes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcing
actively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countries
committed to the highest business, social and environmental standards.
Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonder
Forevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman,
Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on and
off the red carpet.
26
PROFILE
SCALING
BACK
JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGA
COLLECTION WITH FIERY NEW
DESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OF
THE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
F
irst introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th year
in business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragon
and the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano
each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.
At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, the
water dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land and
brought prosperity to the Balinese.
Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer and
creative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Naga
collection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,
prosperity and success.
Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to help
the Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as a
collaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “a
business can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “Greener
Everyday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmental
conservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even the
black palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s Hong
Kong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compound
is a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mud
structures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for the
entire workforce there.
The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Bali
by these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served as
jewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragon
heads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Crafted
from sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semiprecious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings
are rich with detail, inside and out.
“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGA
COLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”
–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER
28
RED CARPET
Blonde Bombshells
WITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,
WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY.
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
AMBER HEARD
T
ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER
CLAIRE DANES
hough the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered
at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly
Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.
Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate
that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.
For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose
pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident
30
HEARD AND PFEIFFER WEAR H. STERN. DANES WEARS MCL.
diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.
smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked
like a winner long before they called her name.
Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens
cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,
stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.
STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY
KATHERINE HEIGL
MARLEY SHELTON
All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent
KEIBLER WEARS MCL. HEIGL WEARS SUTRA. SHELTON WEARS AMRAPALI.
an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a
sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.
Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The
Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to
yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical
designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.
31
TRENDS
T
here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the
spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking
about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.
From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a
de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big
buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of
which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally
important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around
exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to
the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.
COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT
When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the
Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both
fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s
attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality
that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones
of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.
“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If
you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color
in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement
piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I
went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.
Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of
childhood abandon come back into your life.”
Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,
for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,
“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a
lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being
too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great
for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring
and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and
“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown
family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting
gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.
SOME REALLY COOL CUTS
RENEWAL!
THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,
NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM
GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY
BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,
so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and
rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at
the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry
awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones
and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police
drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary
gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.”
DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on
the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.
Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to
clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem
slices with complementary opaque stones.”
SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The
Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold
Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black
sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.
32
flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like
natural light shining through a stained glass window.
Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,
depending on the designer’s individual vision.
Helena Krodel, director of media and special
events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think
about gemstone-slice earrings if you want
something lightweight and, at the same
time, very flattering; they bring light and
color near the face.”
ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically
shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the
most part, three dimensional, almost
sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty
because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic
perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.
Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line
and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design
Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and
authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs
with rough cuts are a great choice.”
ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts
have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually
circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of
triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If
you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut
and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year,
rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up
everywhere.
spessartite garnet, red agate.
A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This
transparent diaspore gem, found
only in Turkey, hasn’t been used
much in jewelry—until now.
With its inherently interesting
color-change properties—
from
kiwi
green
to
champagne brown to
raspberry
pink—it’s
certainly out of the
ordinary, and the perfect
choice for anyone looking
for something unique or a
true conversation starter.
Other favorites: chrysoprase,
green agate, peridot, green opal,
green jade, green quartz, green
amethyst, green garnet, green
tourmaline.
A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately,
citrine has been particularly popular, both for its
color and the variety of cutting styles being used
on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often
affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the
fancy of a growing number of typically high-end
designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and
pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of
overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl,
chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.
A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,
March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted
in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,
aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large
sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing
number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their
engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid
color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—
captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite,
sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.
A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of
the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and
more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly
one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is
well liked in its blue and green varieties, too.
“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is
hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says
Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite,
pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.
EVERYONE IS
TALKING ABOUT
ADDING GEMSTONE
JEWELRY TO THE
LIST OF NATURAL
MOOD ELEVATORS.
...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS
Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone
Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she
points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of
fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely
means these gems will get even more
popular as we progress
through 2012.
A TOP TANGERINE
FIRE OPAL:
These
radiant orange-red
gemstones
are
renowned in legend
and lore for their
positive effect on the
psyche. That said, you
may have to pay the price
for that profound sensation of
peace and harmony! Often the
cost of these expressive and fiery
gems is determined by the play of color,
body color and transparency. “Fire
opal is really popular in Asia,” says
Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s
“Color ot the Year,” it will likely get
stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin
garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,
34
Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by
Stephen Webster.
Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Road
collection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone,
aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of
pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and blue
topaz doublet
ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012
COURTESY LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM
WATCHES
T I M I NG IS
EVERYTH ING
FROM SPORTY TO SPECTACULAR,
YOU WILL KEEP PERFECT TIME WITH A
STYLISH TIMEPIECE FROM TAPPER’S.
Hermes Ladies H-HOUR on orange leather strap, $2,300
Raymond Weil Two-tone Noemia watch with diamonds, $2,495
Baume & Mercier Hampton watch with brown leather strap, $2,650
Cartier Roadster with pink dial, $5,400
Jaeger-LeCoultre Ladies diamond Reverso, $9,150
36
IWC Aquatimer Galapagos automatic watch on rubber strap, $6,900
Raymond Weil Freelancer Gent’s automatic watch, $1,995
Panerai Daylight automatic chronograph, $9,500
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon with brown leather strap, $17,300
Tag Heuer 1887 Carrerra, $4,800
37
FOCUS: WATCHMAKING
by Karen Alberg Grossman
LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM:
TEACHING WATCHTHINK
A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE
AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.
T
he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building
nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a
strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the
lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this
Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed
principal Herman Mayer.
Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and
respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop
independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of
course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,
well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker
of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains.
His intense two-year program, established
in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally
separate from the Rolex Service Center
upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally
responsible for creating and updating the
curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking
schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six
main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics
and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service
and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.
The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students
(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s
an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch
break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to
Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in
their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two
years, they pay for later on…”
Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80
applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning
to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine
watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose
problems just visually. You need to analyze
based on input and output of the mechanism:
it’s behaving a certain way so the problem
must be this or that. You can’t always see the
problem because many watches are built in
layers, so the movements might be covered,
or else just too small.”
Mayer admits that among his greatest
frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking
38
IMPERIALE COLLECTION
skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,
but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very
visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so
young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking
curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive
reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”
Why are these skills so critical? “Because even
if the student has worked on hundreds of watches,
the next movement that comes along might be
totally different than anything he’s experienced. So
it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the
puzzle together: students need to understand what
the parts do and how they interact and whether or
not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare
when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water
damage where parts are caked together), because
even if spare parts are not available, we can always
make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the
‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”
According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and
mostly male; there are only one or two females per
class), in a second career but with some previous
exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some
exposure, at least they know what the profession is
about: having to deal all day long with these tiny
parts, the responsibility of working on such
valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some
who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent
applicants have included bankers and real estate
brokers, some from major cities. “People have
more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.
“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who
want jobs get them.”
Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),
the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build
watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,
“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with
mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important
decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of
the curriculum.”
On a personal note, Mayer grew up in
Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused
on philology and teaching. But at some point, his
love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,
which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and
ultimately to Lititz.
In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a
collector: he wears a different watch every day and
favors those that combine technical precision with a
beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz
program that he even lets his students work on his
personal watches (excluding vintage handmade
pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in
fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:
Rolex watches are forever…”
His most meaningful watch is one he inherited
from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,
the economy was down so he drove a taxi on
weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford
the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every
day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get
replacement parts because their factory had burned
down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare
parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and
its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”
Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the
loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with
members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the
exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”
“Nobody buys
a fine watch just
to tell time…”
—Herman Mayer
40
noemia collection
FOCUS: WINDERS
by Laurie Kahle
WINDING IT UP
TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.
L
ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for
winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep
timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience
factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They
ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the
mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by
limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a
consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever
more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures
energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring
inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components
and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury
furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—the
ultimate of which is a completely custom installation.
(Continued)
42
SEREIN DIAMOND
The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.
Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president
of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from
his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by
the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the
problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to
keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.
Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,
and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a
convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that
when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants
can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your
watch on a winder is also about preventative
maintenance that can extend its life.”
Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to
accommodate your ever-growing collection and
cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of
lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable
storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a
humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the
Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”
explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard
configuration—like buying a car and adding options.”
A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of
Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and
tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.
The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules
that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display
cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches
and jewelry.
The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model
produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The
Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly
combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s
proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,
storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system
with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a
flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design
emulates the muscular curves of the One-77
supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited
production of 77 pieces.
The next level of watch storage is building a
custom room, like the space commissioned by one of
Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”
explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room
(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy
his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage
units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage
drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that
kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says
Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight
months from concept to completion.
Luckily, you have options.
Winders have
entered the realm
of luxury furnishings
with an array of
options to create a
personalized unit.
44
FOCUS: PROFILE
by Randi Molofsky
SO HOT THEY’RE COOL
MICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.
A
walk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulates
much of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an Art
Deco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.
It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with an
innate understanding of classic design.
From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.
The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit of
flash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’s
seaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.
Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from the
Jelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chic
standouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepieces
make a big statement at affordable prices.
Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly
recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern take
on a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular pattern
and oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’s
round case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel and
chronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).
One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is also
reinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-atme neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals in
mint, coral and steel.
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46
JE T SE T T E R
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©2012 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
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GW3500B-1A
FOCUS: COLLECTING
by David A. Rose
TIME ON HIS SIDE
SCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.
A
As a world famous racecar driver still
at the top of his game, it’s remarkable that
Pruett makes time for other ventures. He
and his wife Judy have joined forces to
establish Pruett Vineyard, as well as Word
Weaver Books, publishers of a series of
children’s books they authored. Not
surprisingly, the theme is racing, including
titles like Twelve Little Race Cars, Rookie
Racer and Racing Through the Alphabet.
Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racing
career, these books provide inspiration and
excitement for young readers.
As for his winemaking business,
Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrums
apart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literally
minute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.
Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;
the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend of
chemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m not
one of these athletes who puts my name on a project without
involvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved in
every aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help of
some incredible winemakers.”
Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has raced
every year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was another
extraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-Am
Rolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.
“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “so
being the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:
I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”
ROLEX / TOM O'NEAL
mong the many rewards of success
in sports, perhaps the best is
garnering
the
respect
and
admiration of fans and peers. But for those
athletes competing in Rolex-sponsored
events, the grand prize comes in the form of
a luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set for
themselves long before they’re strapped
into their racecars.
One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,
California, is a true champion in all forms of
motor sports, with the additional honor of
having won more Rolex-sponsored races
than any other driver. Thus, he has become
the proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.
Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also won
the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times and
was awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. In
all, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for his
brilliant race wins.
“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “When
I won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and Ford
Motor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as the
International Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to be
invited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I were
ever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolex
timepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,
and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on to
take the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy my
first beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruett
also bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)
48
PerfectGems
EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.
SLH
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDY
At the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. The
grand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches,
in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, the
manor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor,
some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce to
present the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.
SCOTT CHANEY
STEP IN STYLE
50
Located in a small shop on New York City’s East Side,
designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection puts
fashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Her
unique creations can be seen in very stylish homes all
over the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, the
Smithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs,
inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditional
American quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art,
are made of natural fibers including wool, silk,
pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’s
the only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knotted
rugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!
REST ASSURED
JULIE SOEFER
DAVID TURNER PHOTOGRAPHY
Hôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even more
fashionable and exclusive than the island of St.
Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on a
gently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area,
each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its own
gated entrance and a red mailbox flag that
serves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoy
netting-draped four-poster mahogany beds,
high-tech
entertainment
centers
and
kitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plunge
pools and incredible views across the lush hills to
a beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier has
selected superb wines and the chef creates
amazing dishes (including the hotel’s signature
pasta in cream with black truffles). If you choose
to stir from your villa, arrangements can be made
for a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, you
can just put up your flag, order the excellent
room service, and hide out like the other privacyseeking celebrity guests.
HOUSTON, WE HAVE ART
BUBBLES IN THE AIR
Inspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Or
hotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near the
museum district, owns an extensive art collection that includes
Corot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to be
one of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor in
North America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas
(like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-loving
guests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, then
dine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturally
paired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, created
by chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.
Pops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs,
presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections.
Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown on
Champagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is always
better to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetness
level] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warm
and balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut.
“Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…is
perhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair with
oysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.”
Here’s to a sparkling summer!
52
SPIRITS
GIN
BLOSSOMS
“EIGHT YEARS AGO, every bar in the U.S. had perhaps four gins on
the back row, and perhaps four million vodkas on the front,” says Simon
Ford, international brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater gins.
Today, the scene is, thankfully, far more complex, with gin cocktails
dominating many a bar menu.
Gin got its start when 17th-century British mercenaries discovered
Dutch genever (a malted spirit with juniper) during the Thirty Years’ War. It
traditionally consists of an amalgam of botanical “flavors” (seeds, roots,
berries) infused into a high-proof neutral base spirit and re-distilled. What
spirit and flavorings are used, and how they’re processed, creates different
gins. Hendrick’s “steams” a basket of botanicals with the vaporized alcohol,
then adds cucumber and floral notes. Beefeater steeps its botanical brew,
distills it and blends it with (essentially) vodka, cutting the distillate at just
the right moment to capture citrus notes. Citadelle Reserve is barrel-aged
for six months. Lest you shy away from gin for all that juniper, know that
only London Dry styles (think Tanqueray or Bulldog) are expected to have
juniper-driven flavor profiles. New Western Dry styles, like Aviation and
G’Vine (made with grape alcohol), might emphasize orange, rose or
saffron. If you seek something truly over-the-top, Nolet’s Reserve ($700) is
a limited-edition Dutch sipping gin with notes of saffron and verbana.
Want to try your hand at blending the perfect gin? For about $65,
Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison will guide you through his
historic distillery in southwest England, lead a comparative tasting, then
turn you loose to create your own mini-bottle. You’ll have your choice of 20
different botanicals, and cook it all up in a miniature still.
54
NOLET’S GIN
GIN HASN’T BEEN THIS POPULAR IN 300
YEARS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
WELLNESS
HAUTE HEALTHCARE
W
hen was the last time you went to a spinning class with your
doctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together?
Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One
“new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine.
Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works
with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primary
care physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to top
specialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patients
also pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designed
not only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but also
to educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory is
that a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to become
savvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness.
One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company with
over 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 states
and the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to
$1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians who
wanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primary
care model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to put
the patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they became
sick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison,
MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison,
the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s not
unusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s
estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less with
each patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to address
the symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors cap
their practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day,
allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has a
patient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of
96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalized
significantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiaries
have 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer.
Other member-based companies are gaining recognition for
infusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health,
based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies,
helping them with costs and enabling them to provide better
healthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involves
mobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitioner
comes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offering
dedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellness
counseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s like
Marcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve brought
back and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing.
Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth.
With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just be
a matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarket
outings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.
56
I STOCK
BOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI
TRAVEL
The view from the
lounge attached to
one of the suites at
Amangiri makes the
desert seem like a
private space.
Coffee is always
available for early
risers on the
Ecoventura yachts in
the Galapagos
Islands.
ECO-IMMERSION
A
t its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world is
new. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes every
sound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste
more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journey
of coming home to the senses.
EDEN IN THE OCEAN:
Cruise the Galapagos with Ecoventura
The arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days as
Ecoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic
archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador stands
outside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabin
vessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’s
least-spoiled corner.
When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone,
you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes across
black lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird and
animal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche of
the islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosity
rather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-
58
AMANGIRI IMAGES COURTESY OF AMANGIRI RESORT. GALAPAGOS IMAGES BY PATRICIA HARRIS & DAVID LYON.
GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOU
TO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON
In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lions
let photographers snap their portraits
with abandon.
Sunsets (and sunrises)
are spectacular in the
Galapagos Islands.
The step pool at the spa at
Amangiri glows in the falling
light of dusk.
The giant tortoises of the
Galapagos Islands are
one of the region’s
endangered species.
All the
bungalows at
Lapa Rios in
Costa Rica are
constructed of
thatch.
The foot hue of
blue-footed boobies
varies by individual.
STRANGE
CREATURES
INHABIT THEIR
OWN GARDEN
OF EDEN
footed boobies in their comic
courtship dance. Male frigate
birds nearly roll over
backwards on their nests,
incapacitated by the red chest
pouches they have inflated to
lure a mate.
The strange creatures
inhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing their
pups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoises
lumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs
skitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife,
but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.
(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com
RAINFOREST RHYTHMS:
Costa Rica Escape at Lapa Rios
Lapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowland
rainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitive
tourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in the
forest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches and
tree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the human
exception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.
More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and
birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song to
add to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora and
fauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous,
distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforest
experience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of El
Remanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls.
laparios.com
MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS:
The Purifying Desert at Amangiri
For thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenation
in the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peaceful
mountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south at
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the raw
landscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as a
whispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.
After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the
25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-body
treatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translates
as “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, daily
group yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. But
nothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle of
illumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars.
amanresorts.com
59
BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES
END PAGE
LAST BID FOR LOVE
AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO
M
y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly
dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been
holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to
preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire
Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly
dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable
salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.
In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the
various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had
touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people
passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous
influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this
1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own
wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was
our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’
“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”
The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my
paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to
the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,
I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from
the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the
bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie.
I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac
pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been
considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a
February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—
including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond
complementing her violet eyes.
The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the
“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the
“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure
a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the
bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels
Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic
value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance
and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was
sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!
As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly
dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the
price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller
Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love
bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.
60
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I L O V E Y O U 7 D AY S A W E E K
TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2012