DeStINATiON - Days On File

John Tracy aka Baby Schitzo
has a unique way of looking at
spots. This one is six stories
up on the roof of an apartment
building in Fenway. Nothing
safe about this spot; he landed
the tailslide to fakie several
times before his board crashed
to the street. Session Over.
P
P
S
S
DeStINATiON
DIA
AND // BUR LINGTON // ACA
P
P
P
ISL
BELMAR // BOSTON // BLOCK
P
P
P
P
SUMMeR
P
Remember the last da
y of school? That cove
ted vacation held
such lofty anticipation.
Remember how you’d
cross off the days on
the calendar until scho
ol got out? You would
mark it off, knowing
that each day brought
you closer to summer
vacation, that most
sacred season. June
12th, ...X, ...June 13th,
ge
tting closer, ...June
14th, one more day!
You couldn’t wait to ma
rk off tomorrow. Then
it came: The last day
of school. You never
even got to mark an X,
because you were alr
eady out doing some
thing worthwhile – rid
your bike through the
ing
woods, building a ram
p, or getting a ride to
the beach.
It was the beginning.
It was everything tha
t you got a taste of las
summer, with a chan
t
ce to indulge in this ye
ar.
XENO
Here at N’East we ha
ve that same feeling
about summer. Whethe
you’re leaving the 10
r
th grade, finishing gra
d
school, planning the
family camping trip, or
a stoked teacher antic
ipating summer more
than your students, we
’re right there with yo
u.
42
In honor of summer,
we’ve highlighted five
points of summer fun
from the Northeast’s
,
beaches to the moun
tai
ns. We know there
are plenty of spots in
our region worth hauli
ng your board and yo
bike to, but we’ve pic
ur
ked the ones we are
digging the most this
year. We’ve exhausted
our Rolodex to get the
most gritty local
info. If you’ve been to
these locales, maybe
we
can turn you on to
something new. If yo
u haven’t, perhaps thi
s will plant the seeds
a road trip. Either way,
for
we’re expecting some
great “What I Did On
My Summer Vacation”
essays by September.
43
J E R S E Y
Belmar is off Exit 98 of the infamous Garden State Parkway. It’s really just an
hour from NYC, unless you get stuck in Friday afternoon traffic, in which case,
hope your iPod is charged. It’s also easy to get in on New Jersey Transit train’s
North Jersey Coast Line.
Get on the dawn patrol and you might get a few summer nuggets. You can eat
pizza on the boardwalk and watch the mayhem, and then head to Asbury Park
to see a show. Maybe Belmar should change its name to North Lake Como,
just to screw with ‘em.
Sessions
Belmar’s got a rich waterman heritage. Its most famous local, 74-year-old Cecil
Lear, helped surfer’s get the first designated surf beaches on the Right Coast,
and initiated the ESA.
While Belmar has about the same wave quality as the surrounding towns,
you’ll find over a mile of of beach breaks off Ocean Avenue, which can get
44
fun between the numerous jetties. Low pressure systems moving across the
country can set up nice south swells in the spring. Summer is spotty, relying
on background trade swell and the odd tropical storm–like the whole East
Coast, a better shot in Hurricane Season. From here, it’s easy to access Spring
Lake and Avon-by-the-Sea. Manasquan Inlet, the painfully crowded, but iconic
break, is just ten miles south.
Belmar has its winter warriors, but ocean temps usually warm up for a light
fullsuit by May, trunkable for most of July through September. During summer,
surfers are corralled to the surf beach at 16th Avenue.
Belmar had a rudimentary skatepark on 17th Ave., but word is, there’s a new
one in the works. The biking is mostly of the beach cruiser variety (boardwalk).
However, Allaire State Park, several miles inland offers some of the better
trails at the Shore. The Navisink River to the north offers wakeboarding options
through Surf and Offshore (lines-end.com). If you’re around through the fall,
cast into the surf for striped bass.
Grinds
Belmar is the epicenter of Surf Mex – delicious and affordable Mexican with
the bro-down atmosphere. Surf Taco, on Main St, and 10th Avenue Burrito are
right downtown with Fins Mexicali Grill in neighboring Bradley Beach.
No visit to the Jersey Shore is complete without extra cheese. Three Brothers
from Italy is right off the beach, and Don’s Pizza King is on Main St. Kaya’s
Kitchen, in the Belmar Plaza, is known to vegetarians around the country, while
Oyama, just two doors down offers the best raw fish around. Main Street
Cheesesteaks stays open for the late night crowd.
Locals
Don’t be intimidated by Da Scrui, the Jersey surf punk version of its Hawaiian
namesake. But don’t piss them off either. You might still catch Cecil Lear, a
member of the East Coast surfing Hall of Fame, going out for a glide. Belmar
is home to NJ junior pro hopeful Brenden Buckley, and legendary surfer/sud
slinger, Red Eye Davies. Members of the legendary NYC hardcore outfit
Underdog still haunt Belmar.
Roof Over Your Head
You better know someone if this isn’t a day trip. Nothing at the Shore is cheap
in the summer. Maybe pitch a tent at Turkey Swamp Campground in Freehold.
Hotel options include Belmar Motor Lodge, or Mom and Pop places like the
Mayfair Hotel (732.681.2620) with 44 rooms at $115 per night on a weekend.
Your standard B&B runs anywhere from $100 on a June weeknight to $300
on a busy Saturday. For groups, best bet is to rent one of Belmar’s many
bungalows for the week. Be forewarned – there’s a beer pong ordinance.
JANA CRAWFORD
Killing Time
Asbury Park now has several art galleries and curiosities on Cookman Ave. The
very retro Howard Johnson’s on the Asbury Boardwalk has become quite the
art venue. The Jersey Shore isn’t known for culture, unless you count arcade
ski ball. Walk the boards.
AUTUMN SPADARO
P
Belmar has always been synonymous with fun. Thinking back to weekends in
the 80s that ended with the riot squad on Ocean Avenue, maybe too much fun.
In 2005, neighboring South Belmar changed its name to South Lake Como to
avoid the stigma.
Belmar is one of the few towns at the Jersey Shore that hasn’t been
completely whitewashed by unattainable real estate prices and ludicrous
ordinances. It’s one of the last places between Cape May and Sandy Hook to
hold events for the “common man.” We’re not the biggest fans of the frat
boys that infest Belmar from Memorial Day to Labor Day, but do we need
another uptight borough like Deal or Stone Harbor?
“Hey Sailor.” Asbury fixture,
some-time bartender, and
co-owner of Crybaby Art Gallery, CJ.
ANN COEN
N E W
WORDS JON COEN
P
BELMAR
nick lavecchia
Swill
From Belmar, you can almost hear the, “Bruce! Bruce!” chants. Asbury Park,
of Springsteen fame still offers more venues than any other Shore town. The
Stone Pony, Bruce’s hometown joint still gets national touring acts. Bowling at
the punk/rockabilly Asbury Lanes bowling alley should not be missed, especially
when there’s a live band on the center lanes. The Sidehatch has a hip crowd,
with progressive DJ’s, while The Saint, is the place for underground rock of
all kinds.
Belmar’s clubs, DJais and Bar Anticipation, can be hysterically entertaining, until
the Christopher Multisanti wannabes and overgrown fraternity brothers are too
much. This is a much more bump-and-grind scene than Asbury. If you’re just
looking for a pint, you can’t throw a potato without hitting an Irish pub.
The legendary Underdog
at Asbury Lanes.
Wares & Wears
Don Tarrant is a bit of an East Coast surf historian and his surf shop a pillar of its
community. Ea stern Lines, (732.681.6405, Surf Report, 732.681.6407) across
the street from the 18th Avenue Beach has everything you’d ever need. 3rd
Ave. Surf Shop is on the way into town, on Atlantic Ave. Both are core shops,
open year-round.
DJ’s Cycles on Main Street rents beach bikes and Pro Skate Shop
(732.280.7528) supplies both the local kickflippers and cruisers.
Events
Yes, the Belmar Pro is back. The inaugural contest in 2003 bought pro surfing
to thousands at the Jersey Shore. Past victors have included Shaun Cansdell,
Bryan Hewitson, and Aaron “Gorkin” Cormican. The event went on hiatus
in 2006, but the town welcomes its return, September 6th-9th. The Belmar
Seafood Festival, one of the biggest in the state, is June 9th and 10th. Ween
and The Bad Brains headline The School of Rock Tour on June 23rd and 24th.
belmar.com
localswell.com
stoneponyonline.com
cookmanave.com
easternlines.com
surftaco.com
Florida’s Asher Nolan
is among the top international talent in NJ
for the Belmar Pro each
year. “The Slasher”
in the finals.
45
i s l a n d
Before the Dutch sailor Adriaen Block went on to
“discover” a place called Manhattan, he sailed past
an island 15 miles from the Rhode Island coast,
which is now called, appropriately, Block Island.
The seven-by-three mile “Bermuda of the North”
is 18 miles from the tip of Long Island and 30 miles
as-the-crow-flies, from Martha’s Vineyard. The
native Narragansett Indians, which gave way to
disaffected settlers from the Massachusetts Bay
Colony in 1661, called the place “Manisses”—
island of the little god.
The trees disappeared, as did the native denizens,
and the island became a rolling agrarian gem
criss-crossed with stone walls, plenty of which still
survive. Once as much a fishing village as a farming
town, its commercial fleet never quite recovered
from the Hurricane of 1938.
Like its cousins Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket,
Block Island is a pile of dirt left by retreating
glaciers. Its beautiful, green landscape reminds
many of Ireland, if the Irish sailed back to Manhattan
and Connecticut in September. However, Block is
arguably the crown jewel of the three — having
only been “discovered” by the money types in the
last couple decades or so. Through a dedicated
effort, conservancies have preserved more than 40
percent of the island. There’s lot’s to see and be
46
blown away by.
WORDS PETER VOSKAMP
There are now fast ferries from Montauk, New
London, and Pt. Judith, during the summer. There
is year-round conventional service, which also
accommodates vehicles, and at about 15 knots,
gets you there in about an hour. There is also New
England Airlines, which flies from Westerly, RI, in a
hot 15 minutes.
Sessions
Mountain bikers should look for the Black Rock/
Rodman’s Hollow trails. Hikers would be advised to
find the Clay Head Trail, known as the “Maze,” walk
the 32 miles of greenway trails, or just get on the
beach and keep on going.
It is an island, so if there’s swell, it will hit
somewhere, with plenty of options to get wet. The
Mohegan Bluffs on the south side are an awesome
spectacle. The beaches and surf are some of the
most inviting in the Northeast. Block Island is a
dream compared to its sister islands, in that the
beaches are free and access is comparatively open
(the Five-O have cracked down on crossing private
property; make sure you’re using a public right of
way or be a ninja).
With a hurricane or big system spinning offshore,
visiting surfers just seem to materialize. There does
exist a hardcore group of taciturn Yankee waveriders
on the island, so unless you’re a Narragansett Indian,
they have priority. Sol Sessions, a surf school for
women has camp weeks, including surf lessons,
yoga, meditation, pilates, and kayaking available
in August.
Explore the Great Salt Pond or coastline by kayak
with Pond & Beyond guided tours. Body surfing and
serious spearfishing or surfcasting are also on the
bill; striped bass thrive here, and the bluefish, tautog
and late summer triggerfish abound as well. Steer
clear of the North Point, where there is notoriously
dangerous rip that has claimed unsuspecting anglers.
Plenty of dive-able wrecks around the island, too.
Including the U-853 — a German U-boat sunk off
the island during the last days of World War Two.
It’s deep, though (130 feet), and you have to know
what you’re doing.
Grinds
The best of the high-end food is at Eli’s or Winfield’s.
Eli’s is a bit more relaxed, though the wait is longer,
probably because of the tuna nachos. On Old Town
Rd., try Bridget’s Beach Sub, at the Three Sisters or
reliable breakfast/lunch take-out at Rebecca’s. There’s
always Bethany’s Airport Diner and Ernie’s for your
morning chow, or pick up a bagel and coffee at either
Juice ‘n’ Java, or the Old Post Office Bagel Shop.
BLOCK ISLAND TIMES ARCHIVE
BLOCK ISLAND TIMES ARCHIVE
The local Booze Beggars living up
to their name at Captain Nick’s.
nick lavecchia
nick lavecchia
Cedar shakes and point breaks.
Block Island is truly a gem
of the Northeast if you do
your homework and
respect the locals.
Block island
R h o d e
P
P
The beach at the foot of
the bluffs. It’s a long walk
down a wooden staircase,
so plan to stay a while.
Mexican on the deck at McGovern’s Yellow Kittens
(combined with a frozen margarita) is another
lunch option. Vegetarians should check out the
juice bar and café at Foozies, on the back porch of
the National Hotel. The Block Island Grocery and
the smaller Block Island Depot, on Ocean Ave. are
options if you want to stay home and whip up some
hearty North Atlantic fare yourself.
Swill
When you’re not in, or next to, the water, the island
has plenty of watering holes. Monday is Disco Night
at Capt. Nicks. Chill with the local Booze Beggars
here on Sunday afternoons, then take in a sunset
cocktail on the Atlantic Inn lawn. Later, head over
to Reggae Night at McGovern’s Yellow Kittens on
Corn Neck Road. These are the primary night spots
all week, though there is ample opportunity to whet
one’s whistle at Ballard’s Inn, the National Hotel,
Club Soda or the homebrew bar at Mohegan Café
& Brewery on Water Street. Grab a Fowlers coffee
drink or mudslide and listen to Irish troubadour
Walter McDonough at Mahogany Shoals.
Killing Time
The Empire Movie Theatre, at 17 Water St. shows
the latest flicks nightly during the summer. Block
Island Southeast Lighthouse, perched on Mohegan
Bluffs, has a small museum if you’re boning up on
your nautical history.
P
Locals
Academy Award winner Christopher Walken has
become almost an honorary islander through his
support of efforts to stop a controversial
marina expansion.
Roof Over Your Head
Camping is not allowed and there’re no hostels.
Hopefully you know someone who has a couch,
cause it’s pricey on the Block (but no worse than
most coastal locales). There are the odd, under
$100-a-night possibilities. The best and most reliable
resources for information are the B.I. Chamber of
Commerce blockislandchamber.com, and the
B.I. Tourism Council blockislandinfo.com for a
complete list of B&B’s and everything else.
The more reasonably priced digs are the Surf
Hotel (401.466.2241), Narragansett Inn, (2626) the
Seacrest Inn, (no relation to Ryan, thankfully) or
Gables (2882). If money isn’t an object, stay at the
Sea Breeze or 1661 Inn (great breaky spread).
Wears and Wares
Check out Wave on Water Street for your fashion;
Blockhead’s Surf Shop (9876) on Chapel Street for
board rentals and wetsuits. Island Sports and Island
Outfitters (5002) can hook you up for diving, sailing
or fishing. Don’t expect much in the off-season,
though. The new B-EYE’s has a great selection of
summer shades.
Events
The island has a love/hate relationship with the
growing number of tourists, and July 4 and Victory
Day Weekend in August (as politically incorrect as it
probably is, Rhode Island is the last state to officially
recognize VJ day) are weekends to avoid.
The 24th Annual Block Island Triathalon is August
4th, and the Arts Festival is the 12th and 13th. The
fall, September in particular, is arguably the best
time to be there: The water and air are still warm,
and the beaches almost empty.
blockislandguide.com
blockislandtimes.com
solsessions.com
nesurf.com
blockislandferry.com
Peter Voskamp is a writer, photographer, and editor at the
Block Island Times. A charter member of Sea Squad (the island snorkeling club), he can usually be found in the water,
or behind his drum kit.
47
m a ss a c h u se t t s
P
Boston’s role in history (from the tea party to the roots of city snow shredding) is pretty undeniable. In our most urban choice
of destinations this summer, there is never a lack of something going on, with literally every type of music, food, and art,
combined with at least a taste of everything we are passionate about. If you want to mingle with the “wicked smart” kids,
Cambridge is a vibrant section of the city – by some standards, almost its own city. But for the sake of its proximity (a quick T
Train ride away), we’ve lumped them together.
It has been said that the entire city of Boston would fit inside Central Park. Maybe not, but it feels like it. The public transit
system is simple and fast, but there’s really no need to use it on most occasions – you can bike or skate across the metropolis
in about the same amount of time, or walk and take the city in from above ground. Don’t be fooled by its size: What it lacks
in square mileage, it makes up for in cultural diversity. Each neighborhood has hidden gems that are accessible to locals and
visiting vagabonds. Check it out – you will be surprised how much they’ve stuffed into this not-so-small city.
orchardshop.com
bnbboston.com
boston.com
charlesriverskatepark.org
exploitboston.com
luke simpson
xeno
Xeno’s family lived everywhere from Greece to Rhode
Island. In 1994, he bought a used skateboard at Shady
Skates in Pittsburgh, PA and hasn’t stopped since. After
photography classes in Queens and a16,000 mile road trip,
he ended up in Boston, consumed by what he loves.
Artwork by Silas Finch on display at
Orchard skateshop, Mission Hill.
There are rocks to be found in the city as well. Take the green line to Chestnut Hill at Hammond Pond for
outdoor bouldering. Or seek out the rumored city-sanctioned wall somewhere off the orange line. You could
also hit the impressive indoor gym MetroRock (metrorock.com).
48
Wares & Wears
Countering the high-end shopping of Newbury Street has made way for some
very unique retail throughout Boston. Laced (617.262.5223) is a skate shop on
Columbus Ave. that carriers only selective brands and has a real boutique feel.
Bodega on Clearway Street poses as a New York style corner store, but behind
the hidden doors lies the illest in street wear. Just across the Charles River is
The Garment District on Broadway with both new and second hand styles, a
perfect place for bargain hunting or an early Halloween costume.
Locals
Boston is visitor friendly. Locals may not share their favorite spots but will give
you directions or take you themselves to the better known ones. Make it a point
to stop by Orchard to talk with Devo or Broderick, longtime fixtures in the skate
scene who always know what’s going on. Charlie Wilkins, Robbie Gamgemi,
The local surf break would have to be Nantasket, not exactly a swell magnet, but pretty solid for its ridability/
proximity to downtown ratio. Plus, it’s kind of neat to watch the cargo ships cruise in and out of Boston Harbor
from the line-up. We’ve heard there are spots to the north of the city, but that’s all your getting out of us...
Grinds
The North End is home to The World Famous Mike’s Pastries and hundreds of other great Italian eateries.
Fenway has a more diverse range of restaurants and of course the Sox! Brown Sugar Café on Jersey Street
Roof Over Your Head
When in search of a place to stay your options are endless. There’s always
the conventional reservation at any number of hotels, but if you are in the
mood for something different, keep your options open. Hostelling International
(bostonhostel.org) is on Hemeningway Street, making it centrally located in
the city and cheap at $40 for a bunk. Private rooms run from $70-100. Due to
Boston’s huge temporary population, sublets of all types are available, especially
in the summer – meaning you can grab an apartment instead of a hotel room
on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. Bed and Breakfast Boston (bnbboston.
com) and other area realtors offer fully furnished sublets as well as B&B
accommodations in some of Boston’s finer hoods.
Definitely pricey, but extremely cool is the Onyx Hotel (onyxhotel.com) in the
midst of downtown. Ultra hip digs start at around $200 in the summer.
Killing Time
Boston is New England’s epicenter of arts and culture so you’ll never find
yourself too far from a museum or art gallery. The Museum of Science has
seasonal exhibits and an IMAX Theater. The newly constructed ICA in South
Boston is a must see for all, not only for the contemporary art, but the building
itself is an architectural masterpiece. Another new face in the area is Orchard.
This skate shop/art gallery on Tremont St. in Mission Hill has been keeping the
area’s skateboarders well supplied with product and in touch with local artists
for over a year now.
Sessions
Boston’s long skateboarding history stems from the abundance of street spots. Most are easily found with
a little searching or the help of a local. A major bright spot in the future will be The Charles River Skate Park,
slated as the biggest skate park in the area, sure to attract skaters from all around. Long wait aside, there are
a few free skate parks within the city limits. The most notable is located in Hyde Park, offering a wide range
of terrain including a kidney-shaped bowl and smooth street course. If you happen to find yourself in a bit
of bad weather, make your way toward the Boston University area. Underground Snowboard and Skate on
Commonwealth Avenue has an indoor mini-ramp to keep the session going regardless of precipitation.
Serge Murphy backside tailslide Fenway Park.
Jahmal Williams, The Dropkick Murphys, BonnSavants, Mr. Lif, and many
others all call Boston their home.
Events
The Hatch Shell on the Charles’ River hosts free concerts and outdoor movies all
summer long in addition to the famous annual 4th of July Boston Pops concert.
For all you Dub heads, Lee “Scratch” Perry comes through the Middle East on
June 8th, Morrissey croons at the Bank of America Pavillion on the 26th, and The
Police rock Fenway on July 28th and 29th.
June 16th is the 28th Annual Cambridge River Festival, a gathering of musical
and visual artists. You know there’ll be drama when the BoSox host the Yanks
September 14th, 15th, and 16th. Boston Commons has free movies and
concerts during the summer season.
luke simpson
WORDS Xeno
Swill
Lansdowne Street (of Dropkick Murphys fame “Pipe bomb on Lansdowne”)
in Fenway has an array of different night spots and is the city’s main club area.
However, beware of hefty cover charges and strict dress codes. Allston is
filled with bars and a young crowd. Most weekends you can pick and choose
from an array of live music with reasonable door fees. The Middle East, on
Massachusetts Avenue in Cambridge has live, big name headliners every night
of the week. Of course Boston has no lack of dark and dingy Irish bars. For
the most authentic, just get dropped of in Southie (South Boston) and look up.
Great pubs can be found in any neighborhood. In short, no lack of places to get
pissed, but be there early – last call is at 1:00 or 1:30 in Beantown.
P
Boston
luke simpson
has some of the city’s best Thai food, not to mention outstanding service. Just
around the corner on Peterborough St., you’ll find El Pelon Taquieria - make
sure you try the plantains. A few doors down is Thorton’s Fenway Grille. Their
Bloody Marys are worth the trip alone, and no need to get up early because
they have an excellent brunch menu until 3:00 p.m. everyday. Breakfast Club is
on Western Ave. in Allston. It’s themed after the John Hughes 80s classic and
naturally serves breakfast all day long. Allston also caters to vegans, as well
as with Grasshopper on N. Beacon - all vegan with an Asian twist – and T.J.
Scallywaggle’s, a vegan pizza and sub shop. Otherside Café off Newbury Street
in Boston’s Back Bay has good food and a cool atmosphere whether you want
a smoothie or a Heineken. Bukowski’s on Dalton St. has over 100 beers and
a great bar menu, with two locations, Back Bay and Cambridge. Try The Poor
House on Boylston Street right next to the Prudential for some seriously cheap
eats. A little further out is Bella Luna on Centre Street in Jamaica Plain with an
awesome dinner menu after four and a bowling alley downstairs for those who
don’t mind wearing someone else’s shoes.
Scruffy Wallace of the
Dropkick Murphys.
Justin Kopec working on
a customer at Fat Ram’s
Pumpkin Tattoo, Jamaica Plain.
Jennifer Tausevich
The Brendan Behan Pub.
Boston is our urban pick: music, culture,
handrails, and Guiness on tap
49
Most of the things we love require a sense of
balance. That rings true for the places we love
too. Burlington has a great balance – of nature and
cosmopolitan, hip and hippy, technological and
organic; everything you could want in a place to call
home or just use as a weekend getaway.
There exists an amazing revolving scene of
locals that come and go at will, yet stay very
interconnected. It becomes your hometown, even
if you didn’t grow up there. Burlington people
always run into each other, in Central America, San
Francisco, or in the Everglades and instantly start
talking about the family of friends. At any point,
they can return to Burlington to enjoy the local
scene, be completely and warmly welcomed, or
take their turn at holding down the fort.
Centered in a beautiful glacially-formed basin,
Burlington is a gateway to great mountains, lakes,
rivers, and cliffs, offering almost every sport
pursued by Northeasterners. And it has a damn
cool scene, with thriving culture, colleges, and
nightlife. This has more than a little to do with
being amid the best skiing and snowboarding
in New England, with mountains like Stowe,
Sugarbush, and Jay Peak a few
clicks away.
50
Sessions
There’s an avid mountaineering crowd that takes
advantage of the area’s indoor facilities, as well as an
array of natural routes in the mountains. Both UVM
and St. Michael’s College have large climbing walls.
Petra Cliffs Climbing Center (802.657.3872) is an
8,500 square-foot facility with a bouldering area, lead
cave, and challenge course. For the purist, a decent
selection of quality routes can be found in West
Bolton with upper and lower parts offering climbs
from 5.6 to 5.10.
Sick skaters seem to gravitate to Burlington. After
10 years, they pooled together enough money
to finally have the town build a skatepark just
north of Waterfront Park. There is a good amount
of streetskating, but nothing world class. Best
bet would be to skate the indoor park at Talent
Skateshop (802.864.2069) in So. Burlington.
Not only is there a strong wake scene, but also
the Lake Champlain Board Riders meet weekly to
wakeboard and wakeskate on the smooth waters.
(Contact Alexi Santorineos through lcbr.com).
Lake Champlain has a rich sailing tradition, dating
back hundreds of years to when Burlington was a
large marine trading post. Today, the lake is used
more for recreational sailing, races and historic
reenactments. There are a number of day-sail
charter companies if you want to cruise. Or rent
small crafts from the Lake Champlain Community
Sailing Center.
The Appalachian Trail is one of the oldest, most
interesting hikes in the US. Vermont’s leg, The
Long Trail, is a gem. Elmore State Park, Little River
State Park, and Underhill State Park add up to about
15,000 acres of park, offering fishing, canoeing,
hiking, and camping.
Grinds
Burlington has a diverse ethnic spectrum and
because of this, offers a healthy number of tastes
from around the world. Leunig’s Bistro serves
delicious French-American fare with atmosphere.
Five Spice Café has dishes from Vietnam, Thailand,
Indonesia, Burma, and China. Sundays are a treat
when they serve Dim Sum Brunch. Both are on
Church St. Every great town needs one great sushi
place and one great Italian joint. Asiana House and
Trattoria Delia fit these bills perfectly.
A casual favorite is the Daily Planet, which doubles
as a restaurant and a bar, transitioning nicely from
one to the other as the locals chat up the night.
Locals
The Phish crew aren’t the only BTown notables. Legendary sledders, Seth Neary
and Jeff Brushie came up here and are still fixtures. Young pro broboarders, Yale
Cousino and Chris Rotax, still call this their stomping grounds.
The locals are just plain nice. Maybe avoid some of the rednecks on a Friday
night, or some of the beggars asking for change. Other than that make one friend
and you’ll quickly meet everyone. Circles overlap often.
Roof Over Your Head
Travelers love the Wyndham Hotel (802.658.6500) on Battery Street because
of its great views of the lake. Vincent’s on Fosters Street is a mellow spot.
The Sheraton, just off Rt. 89, is probably the biggest if you have a large party.
Adjacent to the walk path that takes you straight downtown, North Beach
Campground (enjoyburlington.com) is an excellent place to pitch a tent and rest
your head, with great facilities. Reserve a space in advance ‘cause it usually fills
up fast.
Wares & Wears
Maven is a great boutique skate shop on Cherry Street. Not only do they carry all
the best gear, but they host really fun parties. For a true vintage look, check out
Old Gold on Main Street, supplying B-town with both stylish clothes and costume
pieces for years.
Winter or summer, it’s always worth stopping at the Burton Factory Showroom
on Industrial Parkway. They just restyled the whole store, and it is pretty slick.
Feel like exercising your brain? Crow Bookshop (802.862.0848) on Church Street
has the best selection of used literature. Flex Records supports Vermont’s huge
reggae/dancehall following.
Events
May through October are a time for celebrations and festivals in the Northeast and
Burlington is definitely no exception. The summer kicks into gear with the Discover
Jazz Festival during the first two weeks of June. The Fourth of July on Burlington’s
Waterfront Park is one of the best. Hundreds of boats tie up, while thousands
watch a superb firework display, ending with a performance by local blues hero,
Big Joe Burrell. The Brewer’s Festival in July offers a sampling of fine beers
crafted from all over the area. Right around the time school starts, the Champlain
Valley Expo sets up its tents for one of the biggest fairs in New England.
higherground.com
firehouse.org
liveatnectars.com
talentskatepark.com
magichat.com
Burlington VT snowboard
fixture, Randy Geatano,
enjoying a spring evening
session at the hospital hit.
Church Street all lit up.
B-town is like a small version
of a Northwestern city.
nick lavecchia
V E R MO N T
Killing Time
Burlington was named “Tree City USA” for the 13th year running by the NADF.
Parks and Recreation nurture approximately 10,000 trees and 200 acres of urban
forest. There’s the long Burlington Bike Trail and a number of walking paths
shadowed by all these beautiful trees. The shoreline section of the bike trail
offers fantastic Adirondack vistas.
The art scene is as vibrant as the trees, with roots as deep. The Firehouse Center
for the Arts (978.462.7336) is at the forefront of putting Burlington on the map,
offering great shows, lectures, classes, and even applications for a residency
- top facility, great people. Pursuit Gallery is making great efforts to bring
contemporary art to Vermont with an exciting array of summer shows. Church
Street is the center of downtown and offers a nice open-air setting to meet at,
or some great coffee shops to hang out in, like Muddy Waters (Muddy’s, to the
locals) or the more austere, Uncommon Grounds.
dave vuono
WORDS randy gaetano
Swill
Winooski, currently going thru a small renaissance, is the Brooklyn of Burlington.
The Monkey Bar and The Blue Star Café are both fun places for passing the night.
But a night in Burlington is something one must experience, with more good
bars in a three-block radius than Dublin. On Main Street, you have the local dive,
Esox, and the famous Nectar’s, the early haunt of the psychedelic band, Phish.
Around the corner, on Church Street, are 1⁄2 Lounge and Redsquare, both with
hip crowds, live shows, and DJs. The Three Needs and Vermont Pub and Brew
are the local brewpubs. The top music venue is The Higher Ground, with as many
national acts, of all genres, as NYC or LA.
dave vuono
BURLINGTON
P
P
Lone Rock Point.
Two inexpensive, but equally great experiences are The Shalimar of India and
Moe’s Mexican. Al’s Fries is a classic 50s Americana-style fast food joint that
hasn’t lost the touch. The best bagels to be found are at Meyer’s Bagel on Pine
St. Each one is hand-made by Lloyd, a great guy, happy to serve you one hot
from the wood-fired oven on his 30-foot pallet. A great thing about the crunchy
influence here, is locally grown organic food. The Intervale Center has 354 acres
of farmland along the Winooski River and offers plotshares as well
cooperative harvesting.
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blueberry pancakes with blueberry topping, but it
also has a full deli with homemade clam chowder
and made-to-order boxed lunches for adventures.
On the Quiet Side, Café 2/Eat-a-Pita, on Main
Street in Southwest Harbor, offers take-out or patio
dining. Fresh seafood is a staple on the island.
Thurston’s Lobster Pound, dockside in Bass Harbor,
serves lobster right off the boat. Many eateries also
specialize in made-from-scratch organic victuals
from local farmers and fishermen.
In Bar Harbor, McKay’s Public House, features
locally caught seafood and locally raised beef, lamb,
and chicken. The upstairs features a wine bar, with
a traditional bar downstairs. Multi-taskers can head
to Reel Pizza, an eclectic movie house where $6
gets you admission to a movie, and a few more
bucks will get you a pizza and beer. After ordering,
grab a TV tray and spot on a couch. A bingo board
on a sidewall will light up when your order is ready.
Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium, on Main
Street, is dessert headquarters. The lobster ice
cream is made with chunks of real lobster meat.
WORDS KAREN Finogle
m a i ne
If Noah were to build, say, an island, instead of an
arc, it might have looked like Mt. Desert Island,
Maine. An hour southeast of Bangor, Mt. Desert is
home to Acadia National Park, an ideal mixture of
everything one could want in a 46,000-acre New
England playground. Glacier-kissed cliffs rise up
out of the ocean; barren except where spruce and
fir trees cling like lemmings. Bald peaks undulate
from the shore to the park’s interior, interrupted by
valleys of deciduous trees, freshwater ponds, and
the 27-mile scenic Park Loop Road. Island harbors
reveal small towns with legacies steeped in art
and tourism. Bar Harbor, the largest town, is the
hub for all Acadia visits. Over two million people
flock to the Northeast’s only national park each
year, disciples of its recreational and scenic bounty.
There’s still plenty of room to play, though – if you
know where to look.
Sessions
Pack your climbing gear when you head to Acadia.
The pink granite cliffs and mountainsides provide
a good mix of trad and sport climbing for all ability
levels, with no routes longer than three pitches.
Otter Cliffs is a must, but expect crowds. Located
on the southeastern side of the park, just north
of Otter Point, 60-foot sea cliffs offer a dramatic
setting with routes up to 5.12. You’ll also find
crack and face climbing, rappel access, and top
rope routes. Less crowded, Great Head is an
adrenaline-pumping overhang above the ocean. It
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can be accessed from Sand Beach just north of
Otter Cliffs, but you’ll need to know the tides and
have ascenders with a fixed rope. South Bubble,
one of two round granite hills at the northern end
of Jordan Pond, provides good top roping and
beginner routes, as well as some friction climbing.
Access it by parking at Bubble Rock on the Park
Loop Road. The Story of O, a 250-foot crack climb
on the south wall of Champlain Mountain is a big
hit with locals.
Although Acadia’s highest peak stands at only
1,530 feet, hiking is no joke. Most hikes start at
sea level and gain elevation quickly, providing
enough vertical to cause a serious sweat. There
are nearly 130 miles of trails in Acadia, yet visitors
often stick to a handful of popular treks. Cadillac
Mountain provides great views of Frenchman Bay
and the Atlantic Ocean, but a paved road to the
summit will interrupt your commune with nature.
One of the most popular hikes on the island, the
Beehive, gains 450-feet in elevation over the
course of a half-mile. It’s the one trail that can feel
like a cattle chute if it’s too crowded (over 500
people often climb it in a day). Head down the
Bowl Trail afterwards, skirting the pond before
climbing up Champlain Mountain, a 1,058-foot
summit, less crowded than Cadillac. The steep,
mile-long Gorge Path, offers bouldering and
a ravine.
The western side of Mt. Desert Island is referred to
as the Quiet Side. To gain a new perspective of the
island, park at the trailhead on Route 202 for Acadia
and Saint Sauveur Mountains, a 3.7 mile loop
with 1,050 feet of elevation and the best views of
Somes Sound, the only fiord on the East Coast.
Dip your paddle in the ocean after talking to folks at
Coastal Kayaking Tours (207.288.9605) on Cottage
Street in Bar Harbor, or Aquaterra Adventures
(207.288.0007) on West Street. Both outfitters
provide half-day, full day, and sunset
guided paddles.
Acadia National Park’s 57 miles of carriage paths
may not offer any serious tricks, but they’re still
a good pedal on your mountain bike. Avoid the
crowds around Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake on the
Giant Slide Loop, an 8.5-mile ride, 600 feet up the
north face of Sargent Mountain. Your calves will
burn on the switchbacks near the height of land
before you cross over to Parkman Mountain and zip
down for some popovers at Jordan Pond House.
Grinds
There is no shortage of good eats on the island.
The problem is figuring out your flavor fancy. Carb
up for breakfast at Café This Way, at 14 1⁄2 Mt.
Desert Street. Veg-heads can request veggie bacon
and sausage or pick one of the vegan options.
Cottage Street Bakery is famous for its wild Maine
Swill
Trade strobe lights and pulsing bass for starlight
and the crackle of a good fire. Sipping a local
microbrew in front of a campfire is the best form
of nightly entertainment in Acadia. If you still
yearn for hip hangouts, stop by Lompoc Café on
Rodick Street in Bar Harbor for live bluegrass,
jazz, rock, and blues acts every weekend or test
your aim on the outdoor bocce court. Carmen
Verandah is another hot spot above Rupunini’s
restaurant on Main Street. Play pool or darts while
listening to live, original music. For laughs, check
out ImprovAcadia’s professional improvisational
performers. Each show begins at 8 p.m. and
promises to be unique.
Killing Time
Mt. Desert Island is only 108 square miles – and
most of that is national park – but it boasts two
microbreweries. The Atlantic Brewing Company’s
Estate Brewery, in the town of Hill, offers free
tours and tastings daily. from Memorial Day to
Columbus Day. Bar Harbor Brewing Company, near
Otter Creek village, provides tours and tastings,
P
Locals
Bar Harbor local Jeff Butterfield wrote the
guidebook, “Acadia: A Climber’s Guide,” a wise
investment for any visiting climber. Talk to Jeff in
person at the Atlantic Climbing School, on Main
Street in Bar Harbor, for the latest
route information.
Roof over Your Head
Pitching a tent on the ocean’s edge, or under the
branches of spruce and fir trees, is not only one of
the cheapest ways to stay in Acadia, it’s the most
scenic. The National Park Service manages two
campgrounds within the boundaries of the park,
Blackwoods and Seawall. Of the two, shoot for
Seawall, on the Quiet Side near Bass Harbor. The
214 sites are more rustic and private. Walk-in tent
sites are only $14 per night Memorial Day weekend
through the end of September, but you can’t
make reservations.
Family-run Mt. Desert Campground, located near
Somesville on the Quiet Side, has tent platform
sites located on the shore of Somes Sound. Kayak
and canoe rentals are available. For an upgrade
in roofed accommodations, you can stay at Bar
Harbor Hostel, on Main Street. For $25 per night,
crash in one of the 10 beds in either the men’s or
women’s bunks. Be ready to follow some rules. If
you want more flexibility, head to Acadia Inn, on
Route 3 near downtown, from $89 to $180 per
night. Cabin rentals are available throughout the
island if you are heading here with your crew. Five
minutes from downtown Southwest Harbor, Anna’s
Quietside (207.266.8017) has three cabins, each
sleep six.
Street. Cadillac Mountain Sports (207.288.4532)
on Cottage Street, is your best all-around stop
for hiking, paddling, and camping equipment. Bar
Harbor Bike Shop and Acadia Bike, both on Cottage
Street, provide sales, service and rentals. If you
decide to do some cycling on the Quiet Side, check
out Southwest Cycle on Main Street in Southwest
Harbor.
Events
If your explorations don’t keep you busy, island
events certainly will. Stroll through Bar Harbor’s
Village Green on June 24 when over 30 artists will
display their works at the 56th Annual Art Show. On
July 4, patriotism begins at 6 a.m. with a blueberry
pancake breakfast at Bar Harbor’s athletic field. Stick
around for the Seafood Festival, where you can dip
lobster and mussels in butter, before heading off to
watch the fireworks over Frenchman Bay. August 17th to 23rd is the Bar Harbor Jazz Festival.
If you’re looking to expand your kayaking skills, the
2nd Annual Downeast Sea Kayaking Symposium
is September 7th to 10th. On September 8th, the
2nd Annual Mount Desert Music and Arts Festival,
an island-wide event, will feature seven nationally
known acts performing at different venues. On
October 14th, just in time for leaf peeping, is the
Mt. Desert Island Marathon, named “Most Scenic”
marathon in the United States by Eco-Marathon
and ESPN.
nps.gov/acad
acadiachamber.com
atlanticbrewing.com
barharborbrewing.com
acadiamagic.com
Karen Finogle is a freelance writer living on New Hampshire’s
seacoast. When not making her yearly trek to Acadia, she’s
often paddling some other parts of the Atlantic or bagging
peaks in northern New England.
Wares & Wears
Bar Harbor’s downtown is small and most shops
are found near the intersect of Main and Cottage
Street. Climbers, head to Alpenglow Gear on Main
Grady Jackson
loves heel hooks.
Great Head.
brett cary
acadia
brett cary
Hiking down
to Otter Cliffs.
Tuesday through Friday, beginning on June 19.
Criterion Theatre is an Art Deco venue that features
live music, theater productions, and first-run
movies. Head down to Bridge Street in Bar Harbor
during low tide to cross a natural gravel bar over to
Bar Island.
First tracks, Cadillac Mountain.
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