Perfume`s Creative Art - The Questions

Transcription

Perfume’s Creative Art
The Questions
Glen O. Brechbill
Fragrance Books Inc.
www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2011
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. BRECHBILL
“To my parents whose faith in my
work & abilities made this
manuscript possible”
PERFUME’S CREATIVE ART - THE QUESTIONS ©
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Brechbill, Glen O.
Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 208 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.
9. Creativity. I. Title.
Certificate Registry # TXu 1 - 621 - 855
Copyright © 2011 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
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Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS
About the Book
This book is about the questions. I gleamed about 125 pages out of 1,300 pages. How to interview a perfumer of course is at the heart of the creative art. In most cases however, the questions rarely varies. Prior to
2007 interview articles were rather rare. Most were linked to on line newspaper type-sites. After 2007 as more
blogs related to fragrance appeared on the world wide web more interviews appeared. Perfume personalities
from many sides of the industry gave their time and expertise willingly. Just finding and collecting and collating the enclosed articles took close to ten years of work. It’s a secretive industry, and finding data took many
hours of research.
If I had a perfumer to interview I would ask him or her how they got into the art. Which school did they
graduate from. Whom did they apprentice under. Which fragrance house did they work for first. What was
their first fragrance creation. What do they think about the current creative environment ( IFRA ). What do
they think of the future of fragrance considering Giaudan, IFF and Symrise have set up fine fragrance creative
centers in China and India plus Brazil. Are they worried that down the road the art is in danger of dying due
to the computer. Are they concerned that consumers are being mislead as to the danger’s of fine fragrances due
to synthetics. What is their opinion of the folks in advertising, marketing and public relations who provide
exaggerations about what their craft is, and isn’t.
To the point questions like this are being ignored because they are not glamorous. It is my understanding
if one doesn't keep one's mouth shut about the absence of natural materials in today's blends you will find yourself either fired or on a blacklist. The natural perfumers are slowly taking over this portion of the business. For
the most part these folks are poorly trained and educated regarding their creative competence. A single book
or two does not give one all the answers. The essential oil houses to extend profits cut natural materials.
Consequently unless one is a chemist with access to an expensive gas chromatography computer one can not
guarantee a fragrance is a hundred percent natural.
Since the beginning of 2011 another thing you rarely see are interviews by perfumers. Whether this is
something new is not known. The creative art of perfume is a wonderful creative skill poorly understood by
most. Letting folks in the advertising, marketing and public relations twist it into fantasies misleads the consumer, and indirectly I think has lead to its decline. A well known writer said that in one of his last articles,
fine fragrances are similar to a pyramidal marketing scheme. Each new fragrance built on the last one. Getting
cheaper all the time without essential oils incorporating fewer aroma materials.
At some point the consumer will get weary of the constant turn over and hype, and will eventually tune out
this expensive not needed product. That in itself should give the fragrance industry worry.
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Fine Fragrance Artist’s
VOLUME I A - E
Burt Acerfig
Gail Adrian ~ natural
Mandy Aftel ~ natural
Jack Agran
Alessandro Agrati
Nazir Ajmal
Alain Alchenberger
Yael Alkalay ~ natural
Bob Aliano
Alain Allione
Michel Almairac
Henri Almeras
Marc Amandine
Jean Amic
Sandra Anderson ~ natural
Maison Andrae
Will Andrews
Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier
Daunte Pajaujis Anonis
Nicolas Anorga
Jean-Luc Ansel
Gerard Anthony
David Apel
Steffen Arctander - Author
Kari Arienti
Virginie Armand
Pierre Armigeant
Susan Arslaner
Landi Arturetto
Calice Asancheyev-Becker
Roberto Ascoli
Alain Astori
Pierre Aulas
Isabelle Aurel ~ natural
J. Auvray
Lynn Ayre ~ natural
John Ayres
Dora Baghriche
Jerzy Bajgrowicz
Stephanie Bakouche
Alexandra Balahoutis ~ natural
François-Raphaël Balestra
Christine Baillifard
Ted Barba
Phillipe Barbossa
Celine Barel
Anne Barkley
Manolo Barrado
David Basile
Joanne Bassett ~ natural
Napoleão Bastos Jr.
Ahmet Baydar
Beverly Bayne
Soizic Beaucourt
Nicolas Beaulieu
Edouard Beaux
Ernest Beaux ( 1881 - 1961 )
Calice Becker
Paul Bedoukian Phd. - Author
James Bell
Claudette Belnavis
Carlos Benaïm
Nathalie Benareau
Henri Bergia
Ann Berilloux
Domitille Bertier
Jean-Pierre Béthouart
Christian Biecher
Henning Biehl
Robert Bienaime
Mathilde Bijaoul
Norbert Bijaoui
Marcel Billot
Patrica Bilodeau
Marc Blaison
Bernard Blanc
Honorine Blanc
Maurice Blanchet ( 1890 - 1953 )
Jean Francois Blayn
Francis Bocris
Han-Paul Bodifee
Francesco Borghese
David Botello
Etienne Bouckaert
Emilie Bouge
Evelyne Boulanger
Pierre Bourdon
Bernard Bourjeois
Brigitte Bourney-Romagne
Philippe Bousseton
Dirk Braun
Glen O. Brechbill - Author
Odette Breil-Radius
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Shirley Brodi
Maureen Brooks
Christopher Brosius
Roger Broudoux
Laurent Bruyere ( d. 2008 )
Chris Buccellato
Felix Buccellato
Jessica Buchanan
Daphney Bugey
Tony Burfield
Irina Burlakova
Arthur Burnham
Betty Busse
Mark Buxton
Annie Buzantian
Jean-Francois Cabos
Corinne Cachen
Clare Cain
Jerry Caiazzo
Nick Calderone
Yves Caldrone
Francis Camail
Arcadi Boix Camps
Brian Campbell
Frank Cardillo
Cyrille Carles
Jean Carles ( 1892 - 1966 )
Marcel Carles
Françoise Caron
Pierre-Yves Carriou
Francesca Casiraghi
Silvana Casoli
Yves Cassar
Josephine Catapano
Jane Cate ~ natural
Jacques Cavallier
Germaine Cellier ( 1909 - 1976 )
Maurizio Cerriza
Nathalie Cetto
Jacques Chabert
Jean-Marc Chaillan
Raymond Chaillian
Marc Chaillant
Bernard Chant ( d. 1987 )
Anne Sophie Chapuis
Gabriela Chelariu
Andre Chenier
Karine Chevallier
Marc Chevrier
Antoine Chiris
Patricia Choux
Fabienne Christensen
Christina Christie
Phlippe Chuit ( 1866 - 1939 )
Blazenka Cisko-Anic
Steve Claisse
Peter Coates
Beatrice Cointreau
Violaine Collas
Léonce Collas
Phillippe Collet
Sonia Constant
Mark Constantine
Simon Constantine
Emille ( Bevierre ) Copperman
Joachim Correll
Bruce Edward Corritan
Ana Corsini
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
Jill Costa
Zoe Coste
Marion Costero
Natasha Cote
Francois Coty ( 1874 - 1934 )
Yves Coueslant
Fabienne Coupaye
Gerard Coupy
Rosin Courage
Jacques Courtin
Marie-Aude Couture Bluche
Justine Crane ~ natural
Irwin Creed
Olivier Creed
Olivier Cresp
Judith Cross
Phil Cunningham
Harry A. Cuttler
Alexis Dadier
Ernest Daltroff ( 1867 - 1941 )
Claire dal Zotto
Marc Fanton d’Andon
Carl D’Andrea - Phd
Nicolas Danila
Leonardo D’Ascanio
Vioaline David
Nicolas de Barry
Yves de Chirin
Lambert Dekker
Elisabeth de Feydeau
Petra De Jong
Sylvaine Delacourte
Francis Deleamont
Jean Claude Delville
Francois Demachy
Remco de Meijere
Steve de Mercado
Patricia de Nicolaï
Marie-Anne de Puy Raimond
Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
Jacques de Sarrazin
Sabine De Tscharner
Christophe de Villeplee
Claudine de Vogel
Jean Desprez
Mona di Orio
Jean Jacques Diener
Alexandrine Demmerle
Claude Dir
George Dodd
Françoise Donche
Loc Dong
Bertrand Dor
Alfred D’Orsay
Stephen Dowthwaite
Roja Dove
Isabelle Doyen
Kathleen Drier
Zerlina Dubois
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Dominique Dubrana ~ natural
Karine Dubreuil
Marie Duchêne
Isabelle Dufour
Bertrand Duchaufour
Alfredo Dupetit-Bernardi ~ natural
Roger Duprey
Jean-Michel Duriez
Michael Edwards
Margot Elena
Bernard Ellena
Celine Ellena
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jérôme Epinette
Laurie Erickson ~ natural
Ilias Ermenidis
Bernard Escano
Charna Ethier ~ natural
Lois Evans
VOLUME II F - L
Marion Fabre
Francis Fabron
Laurence Fanuel
Jean-Louis Fargeon
Johann Maria Farina 1658 - 1766
Johann Maria Farina
Jeanne-Marie Faugier
Lucien Ferero
Georges Ferrando
Lorenzo Dante Ferro
Helene Fizet
Nathalie Feisthauer
Marvel Fields
Sylvie Fischer
Diane Fischer
Angela Flanders ~ natural
Guillaume Flavigny
Edouard Fléchier
Anne Flipo
Rodrigo Flores-Roux
Jacques Flori
Christiane Flos
Jan Fockenbrock
Lisa Fong ~ natural
Thomas Fontaine
Ellie Fox
Volke Franck
Maia Frattini
André Fraysse ( 1902 - 1976 )
Claude Fraysse
Jacqueline Fraysse
Richard Fraysse
Stefano Frecceri
Harry Fremont
Alexandre Freile
Andre Fromentin
George Fuchs
Frank Fundaro
Yasuo Fujiwara
Olivier Funel
Olivia Giacobetti
Henry Giboulet ( 1911 - 1966 )
Olivier Gillotin
Dominique Gindre
Michel Girard
Kara Girardi
Pascal Giraux
E. Giron
Hubert de Givenchy
Azzi Glasser
Enrique J. Gomez-Dueso
Robert Gonon ( 1926 - 1988 )
Adam Gottshalk ~ natural
Ann Gottlieb
Michel Gouges
Gerard Goupy
Camille Goutal
Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Sidonie Grandperret
Martin Gras
Fanny Grau - Jr. Perfumer
Antoine Gaillard
Jean Louis Grauby
Claude Galien
Jean Babtiste Grenouille - murderer
John Gamba
Sophia Grojsman
Catherine Ganahl
Alessandro Gualtieri
Nathalie Garacia-Cetto
Pascal Guarin
Luis H. Garcia
Pierre-Constantin Gueros
Bruce Garlick
Aimé Guerlain ( 1834 - 1910 )
Michel Garnero
Jacques Guerlain ( 1874 - 1963 )
Valerie Garnuch
Jean-Paul Guerlain
Rene-Maurice Gattefosse 1881 - 50 Pierre-François Guerlain ( d. 1864 )
Robert Gaudelli Jr.
Aurelien Guichard
Robert Gaudelli Sr. - “Bob” ( d. )
Jean Guichard
Pascal Gaurin
Pierre Guillaume
Christiane Gautror
Marion Guillot
Clement Gavarry
Yuri Gutsatz
Max Gavarry
John Geiger
Edouard Hache
Isabelle Gelle ~ natural
Jean Hadorn
Jean-Jacques Genet
Randa Hammami
Constance Georges-Picat
Yosh Han
Violet Ghamemi
Yoshiro Hara
Gerald Ghislain
Leon Hardy
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Stacy Hartenstein
Lyn Harris
Albert Hauck
Raphael Haury
V. Hausmann
Gregoire Hausson
Claude André Hébert ~ natural
John Heffernan ~ natural
Martin Heiddenreich
Pierre-Jean Hellivan
Jane Hendler
Jean-Christophe Herault
Richard Herpin
Carolina Adriana Herrera
Patty Hidalgo
Rich Hippie ~ natural
Clito Hoedicke
Daniel Hoffmann
Wolfgang Höppner
Christoph Hornetz
Sarah Horowitz ~ natural
Jean-Francois Houbigant
Cécile Hua
Jacques Huclier
Richard Hudnut 1862 - 1928
Marie Hugentobler
Kai & Kalani Hughes ~ natural
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ natural
Suk Jee Hyun
Michel Hy
Richard Ibanez
Florence Idier
Lou Ingoglia
Paulette Iaropoli
Jean Jacques
Jennifer Jambon
Olivia Jan
Jacques Jantzen ( 1917 - 1978 )
Catherine Jarno
Delphine Jelk
Nick Jennings ~ natural
Natacha Jerome
Kazumi Jin’no
Ambrosia Jones ~ natural
Arturo Jordi-Pey
Alexandra Jouet
Gaby Joustra
Sylvie Jourdet
Bruno Jovanovic
Mary Pierre Julien
Roman Kaiser
Serge Kalouguine
Akiko Kamei
Juliette Karagueuzoglou
Vivek Karulkar
Veronica Kato
Howard Kennedy
Jean Kerleo
Vero Kern
Karyn Khoury
Joa Kim
Desmond Knox-Leet
Andrew Kobus
Angela Kohut
Dino Kong
Stef Korver
Zarah Kosasih
Alexandra Kosinski
Cecile Krakower
Linda Kramer
Spencer Krenke
K. Krishnan
Fred Kritzer
James Krivda
Vincent Kuczinski
Tejinder Kumar
Francis Kurkdijan
Pierre Kuzenne
Jeanne Lanvin
Jean Laporte
Benoît Lapouza
Christelle Laprade
René Laruelle
Jean Francois Latty
Christophe Laudamiel
Aerin Lauder
Evelyn Lauder
Mathilde Laurent
Alec Lawless ~ natural
Brian Lawrence Phd - Author
Emma Leah ~ natural
Delphine Lebeau
Frédérique Lecoeur
George Lee
Gerard Lefort
Paul Leger
Paul Leget
Dominique Lelievre
Vito Lenoci
Annick LeGuerer
Laurent Le Guernec
Laurent LeLorec
Maia Lernout-Frattini
Jean Yves Leroy ( d. 2004 )
Les Christoph’s
Bruno Leyssene
Mike Licciardello
Céline Lhéritier
Antoine Lie
Jacques Lions
Dwight Loren
Trudi Loren
Nathalie Lorson
Pierre François Lubin
Andrea Lupo
VOLUME III M - Z
Sophie Labbe
Sidonie Lancessuer
Arturetto Landi
Ulrich Lang
Antoine Maidondieu
Shyamala Maisondieu
Christina Malcolm
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Sandrine Malin
Frederic Malle
Nicolas Mamounas
Carl Mann
Eurico Manzzini
Vincent Marcello
Amandine Marie
Francoise Marin
Dennis Maroney
Jean Martel
Marianne Martin
Jean Pierre Mary
Alienor Massenet
Ruth Mastenbroek
Georges V. Matchabelli
Norina Matchabelli
Rosendo Mateu
Christian Mathieu
Celine Matton
Raymond Matts
Daniel Maurel
Maurice Maurin
Agnes Mazin
Eurico Mazzini
Anne McClain
Lori McCormick
Anya McCoy - natural
Maria McElroy
Paul McGee
Darius McLean
Alan McRitchie
Keiko Mecheri ~ natural
Adriana Medina
Annick Menardo
Domitille ( Bertier ) Michalon
Isabelle Michaud
Auguste Michel
Kristen Michele
Jean-Paul Millet Lage
Tony Mills
Alix Miral
Mitchev Miroslav
Petkov Miroslav
Nicolas Mirzayantz
Daniel Moliere
Montserrat Moline
Ellen Molner
Ramon Monegal
Alexandra Monet
Louis Monnet
Pierre Montale
Braja Mookjerjee
Rene Morgenthaler
Ayala Moriel ~ natural
Alberto Morillas
Edwin T. Morris - Author
Neil Morris
Michel Morsetti
Jack Mowen
Wilhelm Mülhens
Judith Muller
Junko Nagano
Yukiko Nagano
Christine Nagel
Pierre Negrin
Patricia Nicolai
Trevor Nichol
Stephen Nicoll
Jean-Charles Niel
Stephen Nielson
Itsuo Nishino
Rachana Nossin
Pierre Nuyens
Veronique Nyberg
Egon Oelkers
Keiko Ogi
Daniel Paillasseur
Joseph Palazzolo
Martine Pallix
Philippe Paparella-Paris
Michael Papas
Paul Parquet ( 1862 - 1916 )
Mike Parrot
Sillon Pascal
John Pascale
Fabienne Pascour
Fabienne Pastor
Subha Patel
Ruhi Patil
Elise Pearlstine ~natural
Fabrice Pellegrin
Roger Pellegrino
William Penhaligon
Fabrice Penot
Gino Percontino
Persephenie ~ natural
Olivier Pescheux
Armand Petitjean
Julie Petrov
David Phybus
Michael Pickthall
Constance Georges-Picot
Lena Pierottie
Theo ten Pierik
Linda Pilkington
Edward Pinaud
Dorothee Piot
Beatrice Piquet
Lucien Piquet
Robert Piquet
L.T. Piver
Christiane Plos
Cosimo Policastro
Jacques Polge
Olivier Polge
William Arthur Poucher - Author
Miuccia Prada
Dominique Preyssas
Christian Provenzano
Henri Racine
Donna Ramanauskas
Vellidum Joe Ramsammi
Francois Rance
Gabriel Bernard Raphel
Gaye Straza Rappaport
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Dave Raymond
Christophe Raynaud
Alice Rebeck
Marius Reboul
Anthony Reichert
Robert Ricci
Romano Ricci
Eugene Rimmel
Achille E. Riviello
Francois Robert
Guy Robert
Henri Robert ( 1899 - 1987 )
Marie-Helene Rogeon
Eli Roger
Maurice Roger
Philippe Rogues - Phd
Shere Rolo
Philippe Romano
Giles Romey
Dominique Ropion
Vincent Roubert ( 1889 - 1972 )
Maurice Roucel
Jacques Rouche ( 1862 - 1957 )
Victor Rouchou
Edmond Roudnitska ( 1905 - 96 )
Michel Roudnitska
Theresa Roudnitska
Ineke Ruhland
David Ruskin
Alfred Saalfield
Caroline Sabas
Jean Dennis Saisse
Yasuzo Sakuda
Marie Salamagne
Ayala Sander
Jean-Marie Santantoni
Michele Saramito
Iku Sasaki
Enrico Scartezzini
Vincent Schaller
Franc Schiet
Monique Schlienger
Geza Schoen
Ralf Schwieger
Shrri Sebastian
Ayala Sender ~ natural
Magali Senequie
Janna Sheehan
Christopher Sheldrake
Ernest Shiftan
Naoki Shimazaki
Pandurang Shinde
Miya Shinma
Nobi Shioya
Koichi Shiozawa
Maarten K.J. Shoute
Mary Shroff
Robert Siegel
Jean Louis Sieuzac
Lucas Sieuzac
Heather Sims
Shishir Kumar Singh
William J. Slattery
Rohanna Goodwin Smith ~ natural
Kristin Smithie
Persephenie Snyder ~ natural
Georgy Sokoloff
Hilde Soliani
Maria Sovero
Veeraraghavan Srinivasan
Marlene Stang
Catherine Poensin-Stefani
Marina Stepanova
John Stephen
Laura Stern ~ natural
Jean-Pierre Subrenat
Shuji Suzuki
Yasuko Takeda
Yes Tanguy
Andy Tauer
Cary Tenenbaum
Roland Tentunian
Francis Thibaudeau
Sampath Thomas
William Thompson
Sissel Tolaas
Michael Tolmasoff
Laura Tonatto
Haresh Totlani
Julie Towle
William Francis Truefitt
Rafael Trujillo
Marcus Tschirren
Luca Turin
Louise Turner
Paul Vacher ( d. 1975 )
Christian Vacchiano
Emilio Valeros
Arnold L. Van Ameringen
Cees Van Beizen
Henry Van Den Heuvel
John Varvatos
Vera Vanore
Felicie Vanpouille
Yann Vasnier
Daniel Vaudd
Rayda Vega
Sreevidhya Venkatesh
Kevin Verspoor
Karoline Vieth
Agusti Vidal
Clio Vidal
Lino Vidal
Roxana Villa ~ natural
Lorenzo Villoresi
Carlos Vinals
Karine Vincho
Sandrine Videault
Daniel Visentin
Frank Voelkl
Marc Von Ende
Ben Vos
Shelly Waddington ~ natural
Raj Walavalkar
Amanda Walker ~ natural
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Catherine Walsh
Ursula Wandel
Pierre Wargnye
Thierry Wasser
Patrick Whelan
Peter Whipps
Ashley Wilberding
Ron Winnegrad
Arnaud Winter
Richard Wirtz
Brigitte Witschi
Nobuyuki Yamada
Shigeru Yamazaki
Nathalie Zagigaëff
Pauline Zanoni
Cecile Zarokian
Madame Zed
Jörg Zimmermann
Barbara Zoebelein
Lisa Zorn
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The Questions
Article
Author
Year
Interview with Michael Edwards - May 1, 2001
2001
Any books you could recommend for anyone interested in learning more about fragrances?
If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance,
which would it be and why?
Interview with Marian Bendeth - November 1, 2001
How did you get your interest in the perfume industry?
How did you get your interest in the perfume industry?
What made you decide to create the Fragrance
Advisor?
How did you first get involved in the industry?
Do you personally smell everything in the guidebook? What made you decide to become a 'fragrance profiler'?
Do evaluators always agree with your initial classifications?
What are the common mistakes made by men, with
fragrances?
Say, if I had developed a fragrance. How would I go
about getting it listed? What stages does the fragrance How should a someone apply a cologne/EDT? What
go through before it is listed?
pitfalls should be avoided?
When a fragrance is discontinued, how long is it What tips could you give on choosing a fragrance?
before you remove it from the book?
Which male fragrances do you think have been the
Anything else you would like to mention about the most important for the men's fragrance industry as a
book?
whole? Why?
What are your favourite fragrances (male/female) and What are your thoughts on the future of the industry?
why?
( On natural ingredients being sacrificed in some fraWhich male fragrances do you think have been the grances )?
most important for the men's fragrance industry as a
whole? Why?
If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance,
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
which would it be and why?
remained one of the world’s great all-time fragrance
classics though it was introduced in 1921.
Any books you could recommend for anyone interested in learning more about fragrances?
Jacques Polge also shared with us his thoughts about
how dramatically our industry has changed in contemInterview with Perfumer Christin Nagel - January
porary times.
2002
We spoke of what had inspired him to become a perfumer.
Christine, what is your astrological sign?
Please define your personality in just three words.
When we asked Jacques Polge what he thought
women wanted from fragrance in today’s world
What was your career like before you became a per- As for the influence of fashion on the fragrance experience
fumer?
Where did your vocation for perfumery come from?
Jacques Polge expressed his personal feelings about
fragrance in an extremely introspective way
Have you known someone in perfumery who was a
His observation triggered a discussion of the current
role model to you?
trend in America in which the public is increasingly
Have you known someone in perfumery who was a looking for fragrances with benefit beyond a pleasurable and beautiful scent.
role model to you?
Do you have an obsession for a particular ingredient?
Mr. Polge explained he’s been hearing a lot about the
trend.
Among your own creations, which ones are you most
Finally, I asked, if he could look into his crystal ball,
proud of?
what does he think fragrance will be like in the future.
Which fragrances convey a real emotion to you?
Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich - Sept. 3, 2002
Besides perfumery, what other passions are you guilty
of?
Nathalie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the
fragrances you’ve created.
How do you see perfumery in the next Millennium?
What influences you as a designer?
If you had to link your creative sensibility to a pictorial style, which one would you choose?
How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What
are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characterisJacques Polge - An Interview - May, 2002
tics?
Of course, we were eager to have Jacques Polge share Do you think that being a woman influences the way
his thoughts about the reasons why Chanel No 5 has you create, and if so, in what way?
12
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you table émotion?
had created? And why?
En dehors de la création en parfumerie, quelles sont
How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do vos passions avouables?
you have any hopes for the future?
Quelle est votre vision de la Parfumerie du prochain
Creativity in Perfumery? - January 1
millénaire?
2003
Si votre sensibilité créative devait se rattacher à un
courant pictural, quel est celui que vous choisiriez?
Do marketing and market pressures restrain creativity
The High School Classroom - Interview with IFF
and innovation in perfumery?
Perfumer Christopher Laudamiel - January
What is your definition of creativity in perfumery?
2004
Are humans limited in their ability to smell certain
odors or is nature limited in the production of odors? What inspired you to become a perfumer?
Do you feel free to create your fragrances?
What does a perfumer do?
Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin - Parfumeur Créateur How do you use science in your job?
Planète Parfumeur
What educational background and skills are needed to
June 3, 2003
be perfumer?
Puis-je vous demander quel est votre signe Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques
astrologique?
Polge - January 29, 2004
Pouvez-vous définir votre personnalité en 3 mots?
He will only say so if pressed. Although why he
should be so hesitant is unclear.
Quel a été votre parcours avant de vous consacrer à la
Parfumerie?
"And what might that accurate description be, Mr.
Polge?", his interviewer insists, evidently eager to hear
Comment votre vocation est-elle née?
him articulate the magic words. "Well", Polge replies
a little uneasily, "I am a nose".
Avez-vous eu un Maître en Parfumerie?
And therefore surely something of a difficult act for
Avez-vous des matières fétiches?
Mr. Polge to follow, n’est ce pas?
Parmi vos créations personnelles, quelle est celle dont So how does Mr. Polge go about creating a new fravous tirez le plus de fierté?
grance?
Quels sont les parfums qui vous transmettent une véri- "Please forgive me if this sounds rather rude - but your
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nose looks quite ordinary to me."
In case you're wondering where Dove gets his grand
ideas and expertise from, his infatuation with fraInside Global Fashion Trends - Interview Coming Up grance began in the time-honoured way:
Noses with Lynn Harris - June 3, 2004
Scent & the City - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo
And how did this change the way consumers want to Flores-Roux - Sept. 2004 - Page 84
smell?
Rodrigo Flores-Roux is the child of 'a Joy and an
A response to a time when everyone wore Gucci Envy Aramis marriage'. This is his way of explaining how
and Calvin Klein Obsession?
he was destined from birth to become a perfumer.
For Miller Harris, is the main aim to represent scents Flores-Roux is not a snob when it comes to scents.
in their purest concentration or to create unusual fra- When he takes me to his office at Quest International
grances?
(where a 1948 advertisement for the perfume Indiscret
hangs behind his desk), he explains that ingredients by
There's a certain amount of truth to that.
themselves may smell vile can be combined with other
items to produce a luscious fragrance.
But is this movement for personalized scents only
about introducing new scents?
A nose - even a talented one - has to put up with his
share of it in the workplace. When one catty colleague
Tell us about the personalization process that you offer spots Flores-Roux being interviewed, he wonders
to customers?
aloud why he isn't the subject of a profile when he had
just been selected to design Britney Spears's forthDo you consider your services part of the quiet luxury coming perfume.
trend where only the wearer knows about the personalization of their fragrance?
Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents - September 8, 2004
Is it about discretion?
Is it men and women using both of your services?
It sometimes happens that I have to get up and walk
around the garden to clear the smell from my mind. It
stops me from sleeping - it's a real pain.
And why are people taking the time now? To invest in He believes perfume making is heading down the
getting the right scent can take some time whereas wrong path.
buying into the image of a hot fragrance doesn't...
One does not create a perfume to illustrate a concept It's a new era in shopping for fragrances.
it is a matter of creating a scent, a desire, of giving
pleasure," he says. "It is from creating and giving
Genius With a Bottle - Roja Dove “ Professor of pleasure that the very idea of perfume comes."
Perfume” - Sept. 2004
Hermes for its part shuns the very idea of market tests.
So what might the ardent seeker of olfactory perfection expect to find?
It seemed urgent given the current context, since we
are completely losing the roots of perfume.
14
Inspiration can come from any quarter - once from the fun.
taste of a pineapple and ginger tart, once from the
wood and pepper scent of an old oak being cut down Every 15 minutes there's a mini-movie featuring
in the Midi.
diaphanously dressed couples on beaches, incomprehensible until you realise it's a perfume ad.
When I started, I used about 150 products but I have
reduced my palette and I am still reducing it.
The 'what's new?' question has many answers. Last
year, 163 new women's fragrances were launched on
He carries notebooks he fills with words and sketches to the market (compared to 20 in 1980). It seems as
that can powerfully revive a particular smell.
though every market segment is covered, every niche
filled with product.
If he has a style it is one that aims for simplicity, elegance, lightness and generosity.
The reality is that marketing companies identify positionings and brief several fra grance factories who
He does not believe in different scents for men and compete to fulfil the brief at the price. The product is
women.
picked by committee and tested against focus groups,
then launched with a promotional spend of millions.
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite And how much do these fabulous essences that we are
Novels - September 16
so supposed to covet actually cost to make?
Ms Tonatto, who has made fragrances for 20 years and In our business, you have to essentially reinvent your
is an expert in historical perfumes, created a deep portfolio every five years'. Why would you want to
vanilla scent to accompany the extract from the novel. reinvent something that was really precious and special?
Ms Tonatto, who is based in Turin and whose clients
include Giorgio Armani, was inspired as a youngster James Craven of Les Senteurs and Roja Dove share
when she would constantly imagine the smells to the view that most modern launches are bland.
accompany books she read.
So what makes a truly satisfying fragrance?
Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris - December 19, 2004
It is time to go back to Lyn Harris, to see what she's
Shapely bottle, celebrity name, tantalising elixir with- come up with in her Notting Hill basement among her
in. It's the time of year when thoughts turn to perfume, little alu minium phials of essences.
but with 163 new women's brands last year alone, how
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han - Dec. 26
can you tell which is the one for you?
I visit Lyn Harris, proprietor of Miller Harris, at her Few perfumers might proudly describe one of their
custom fragrances as "noxious and alarming," but San
shop in Mayfair.
Francisco's Yosh Han does.
Still, she's agreed to do Observer, the perfume, so
I explain to her our qualities. I don't need to spell them The literary-olfactory connection may seem unusual,
out here, because they are also yours: suffice to say but Han, 33, sees a natural affinity between the two.
that they include high intelligence, vast erudition and
15
Glen O. BRECHBILL
A person may love or despise a certain scent because What were the major obstacles that you faced?
of the emotional memories it triggers, like a grandmother's rose garden or a childhood home.
What was the result?
After further nasal "editing" sessions, she takes out What are your goals for 2005?
her droppers and Pyrex beakers and begins blending
and bridging the fragrance, then decants it into square Vive La Vie - The House of Roure - March 22
flacons imported from France.
We all know what smells bad to us but it must be dif2005
ficult to discern from the 'good' smells, what will then
be a successful fragrance.
Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo - January 21
What about when people first smell a new fragrance
The day before my appointment with Jean Kerleo, I go instinctively, they try to put it in a place in time, perto a Sephora beauty shop for a sample of Jean Patou haps it jogs their memories of a past experience or of
perfume.
another fragrance. Is that not an emotional response?
Kerleo has arranged to meet in Versailles at the House How then does one begin to deal with explaining the
of Perfumes, or Osmotheque, next to France’s famous process?
perfumery school, Isipca.
What do you suspect then that you will discover and
In an era when perfume is more ephemeral than ever, how in turn will that reflect back on the industry in
I ask him, are there still creations that mark mile- determining the 1 out of 100 fragrances that will be the
stones?
enduring classic?
Is he always conscious of his olfactory sense?
It is very interesting as a consumer to note that the promotion of new fragrance takes into account almost all
You are wearing a Bulgari perfume, aren’t you?
of the senses in that you see the product and the packaging, you hear the music associated with the adverI would never have asked Kerleo to guess my perfume, tising automatically your attention is grabbed and perfor it is the thing everybody wants perfumers to do and haps you don't even realise that all your senses have
they hate it, but I have no choice.
joined together to promote smell.
As we are sipping our espressos, Kerleo talks of the The way that fragrance language borrows from other
future. He is sure haute parfumerie will have a resur- areas like colour is interesting - the way that people
gence.
seem to be able to smell 'green'....
Caroline Sabas - Creates New Fragrance - March 15
How do you as an olfactive scientist work with the
perfumer?
What did you accomplish in 2004?
How did you do it?
So again even the perfumer describes his/her reactions
anecdotally.
16
That would obviously have repercussions on productivity within the company, in that if perfumer A is
more acute in the morning then the bulk of his work
could be done then whilst perfumer B fires in the afternoon.
perhaps perversely want to look at it again?
How far have we come in terms of our understanding
since the first modern commercial fragrances such as
Jicky or Mitsouko? Were they conducting fundamental research into the sort of questions you are addressing or is this a relatively new field?
Strong, Man - April 24
The olfactory system is such a fascinating area and so
little is known about it, can it develop any more and
what can research ultimately tell you about it?
The Nose was Ann Gottlieb. She describes herself as
the "director of the orchestra." Gottlieb has had her
own self-named business for 23 years and before that
worked in the fragrance industry in product developApart from the projects you are working on now, what ment.
do you see as the longterm relationship between the
olfactive scientist and the perfumer?
She has the kind of New York accent that always
makes her sound rushed, and with her clipped,
We were discussing previously the affects that certain straight-to-the-point demeanor, it is hard to imagine
climates and differences in various cultures have on her dealing in metaphors and allusions. Her most
the response to a particular fragrance. Taking these essential tool, her actual nose, looks rather dainty and
considerations into account, how then does one create unassuming.
a universal, cross-cultural fragrance one that is going
to not only smell the same everywhere but have the Gottlieb has worked on fragrances for Carolina
same attractive appeal?
Herrera and continues to be the Nose for Unilever's
Calvin Klein scents.
If a product has a purely functional purpose, like a
dishwashing liquid why is there so much emphasis put Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears - July 14
on making it smell as nice over time as a couture fragrance?
What woman who lived through the 1980's can forget
the sickly-sweet, pass-me-the-insulin aroma of
Does one's sense of smell deteriorate as we age like Giorgio Beverly Hills?
eyesight and hearing fall foul of the years?
More important, will I ever be able to erase the muskyIs this replacement a throwback to some primitive sweaty bouquet of Brut from my memory bank?
function that the nose had to perform?
I like the names of your perfumes?
Fundamentally, why is the fragrance industry so successful: Why do people want to mask their own natu- Scent of the Young & Happy - August 1
ral smells with the products of the perfumer's workshops?
What was the first image that came to your mind when
you received the fragrance brief for Miss Dior Chérie?
Why do we have such an immediate knee-jerk often
physical reaction to something that smells offensive Did you work on different directions for Miss Dior
where if something is visually upsetting, we often, Chérie before finding the definitive one? How did you
17
Glen O. BRECHBILL
proceed?
mas or smells in general, or more specifically out of an
appreciation of perfumes, and if the latter, what are
Did you start with the existing Miss Dior to create some of the first perfumes you remember being captiMiss Dior Chérie?
vated by?
What is the link with Miss Dior?
You have rejected the use of synthetic chemicals in
your own line. Was this something you set out to do
What are the common elements? What makes them from the start, or was it was a decision that you came
totally different?
to gradually as you learned more about perfumery?
How would you describe this fragrance? It’s in the Have you had any mentors, or are there specific perchypre category, but it seems to have opened the way fumers or perfume lines that have influenced your
for a new, sweeter kind of chypre. Can you explain? style?
What makes it modern?
Are there particular fragrance notes or ingredients that
Why will it attract young women?
attract you and that you like to work with whenever
possible? And are there particular notes that you don’t
Who is the Miss Dior Chérie woman?
care for and would rather not use in your own work?
Were you thinking about someone in particular during Which of your perfumes is your personal favorite, and
the creative process?
why?
Was it important for you to have a clear image of the Tell us about your new boutique and perfumery that
Miss Dior Chérie woman? Is that always the case will open in late September?
when you create a new fragrance?
What are you passionate about besides perfume?
How did you become a perfumer?
An Interview with Yann Vasnier - Sept. 6
Do you think that it is more difficult for a woman to
become a perfumer?
Olfactory memories can be very strong. What scent
takes you back into the memories of your childhood?
Which fragrance do you prefer?
What is your favourite ingredient to work with (natuWould you say that a fragrance always has to create a ral and/or synthetic) and why?
strong imaginary world?
Do you have visual analogues for particular scents?
What have you got to say about Dior?
How would you characterize your signature in the fraHow would you describe the Dior olfactory world?
grances you have created?
An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis - Sept. 5
Whose work in perfumery do you admire the most?
Did this obsession come out of an appreciation of aro- Given the trend towards watery florals and fruity-flo18
rals, where do you see a room in today’s market to be eries. Her favourite materials include many notes that
radical and innovative?
are not conventionally beautiful.
What is your personal measure of success for your fra- As for her current goals
grances?
Interview with Michael Roudnitska - October 15
Do you think that your work in fragrance leads you to
approach other things that concern olfactory percep- From luminous dryness of Frédéric Malle Noir Epices
tions (i.e. wine and food), in an analytical way?
to elegant sensuality of Parfums DelRae Amoureuse,
creations of Michel Roudnitska are marked by sensiDo you have other passions besides creating fra- tivity to form and originality of expression.
grances?
Their sources of inspiration are diverse, based on their
What perfume do you still wish to create?
creator’s extensive travels and observations unfettered
by traditional views.
Since you have been living in New York, have you
managed to form an olfactory image of New York His ability to break through the crust of conventional
City?
is no doubt fostered by his other life-long passions in
photography, sculpture, drawing, and video montage.
Conversation with Mandy Aftel - Oct. 11
What is the most satisfying aspect of the process of
Mandy Aftel’s passion for perfumery is contagious. fragrance creation, and what is the least?
When she speaks about her creations, one realizes that
this is an individual whose love for perfume is as Which of your fragrances did you enjoy composing
immense as her knowledge of essences and perfume the most?
history.
It is common to hear that perfume is a luxury comOriginally from Detroit, Ms. Aftel graduated from the modity item which cannot be treated in the same way
University of Michigan with degrees in English and as a work of art. What are your thoughts on this topic?
Psychology. Ms. Aftel found her calling more than 10
years ago, when she took a workshop on how to make So for me the real question is: in which conditions and
solid perfume. This one-day workshop led her onto the for what purpose is this creation done?
path of perfumery, from which she has not swerved
I read in one of your interviews that you do not incorsince.
porate many vanillic notes in your compositions,
When Ms. Aftel begins to speak of her creations and while jasmine is one of your favourites. Is there a
of the thinking that goes into her fragrances, nothing material you have only started exploring in your work
can distract her. In this world of hers, perfumery is the recently?
main focus.
Which natural materials do you consider to be irreTalking about essences is one of the most interesting placeable by synthetics?
topics for Ms. Aftel, whether the discussion touches
upon the qualities of antique oils or the recent discov- Do you feel that your exposure to the art of perfumery
19
Glen O. BRECHBILL
from an early age affected your perceptions of the spent a year in New York before returning to Italy to
world around you?
complete degrees in philosophy and religion.
Subsequent travels in North Africa and the Middle
What scent triggers your childhood memories?
East sparked an interest in spices and other fragrant
materials, and eventually he was asked to create fraAs a son of Edmond Roudnitska, how would you grances for friends, and then scented candles for
describe your father’s approach to teaching you when Fendi.
you decided to take up perfumery?
I understand that you have a degree in philosophy, and
Which of your father’s fragrances is your favourite?
I am wondering what career you would have pursued
if you had not become a perfumer?
You speak highly of Jean-Claude Ellena’s work. Have
you ever worked together?
And do you think your studies in philosophy have
influenced the way you work with fragrance?
Do scents have visual or audible analogues for you?
Do you think there is an Italian style of perfumery that
What are your passions besides perfumery?
is distinct from the French style?
Is it possible to speak of these passions as being out- As far as Lorenzo Villoresi is concerned, it is perhaps
side of perfumery, or are they intrinsically connected possible to talk of Italian style with regard to the large
with it?
use of raw materials typical of the Florentine and
Tuscan tradition which made "Made in Italy" famous
How did the idea of spectacle olfactif "Quintessence" in the world.
in 1996 come about?
How do you think your own approach to perfumery
Are you continuing your work on the multisensorial fits in? Or would you say that the Middle Eastern trashows?
dition has been a more important influence on your
work?
I understand that you are an avid traveler. Can you
please describe one of your favourite places to visit in Are there any notes or smells that you are particularly
terms of its olfactory image?
drawn to, and are there any that you dislike intensely?
Are you planning to add another fragrance to the You have said of your custom work: "I am merely an
Parfums DelRae range?
interpreter, the person who knows the alphabet of
smells. I translate words into scents; I serve as a mediAre you planning to establish a line under your own ator between their desires and the fragrance phial." I
name?
am curious to know if you are ever surprised by what
you develop for a client, that is, do you ever create
An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi - Nov. 22
something wonderful that you would not have thought
of on your own?
Florentine perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi came to the fragrance business in a rather round-about way. After Or something that you find unpleasant but that suits
studying psychology at the University of Florence, he the client?
20
Which of the perfumes in your ready-made line is your paper, printer’s ink, steaming coffee, the starch of your
own personal favourite, and why?
shirt?
Can you tell me a few perfumes from other lines that Ideas for fragrances strike Ellena like proverbial lightyou particularly admire or like to wear?
ning boltsor they ferment, their recipes jotted down
and left to steep in palm-sized leather notebooks.
2006
One thing he assiduously avoided was any involvePerfumery Draws Fire over a Scent - Feb. 23
ment with the bottle’s design or packaging. “I’m afraid
of marketing,” he says. “You don’t make a painting to
Laurice Rahmé, has a temperament too volatile to be match a frame and the bottle is the frame.”
contained in a bottle. But that, in a manner of speakSophia Grojsman of IFF - March
ing, is exactly what she has set out to do.
A former Parisian, has found success with her Bond Finding the perfect scent to compliment the individual
No. 9 fragrances, which until now have been named is what drives top perfumer Sophia Grojsman to create
some of the most admired and recognizable fragrances
for neighborhoods in New York.
in the world. For her, scent enhances expression, and
Her latest fragrance, the ambitiously christened "Scent she strives to create fragrances to awaken the imagiof Peace," is a departure, in that its blend of grapefruit, nation.
black currant, cedar and musk.
At the time, when fragrances were created using
To critics who charge that Ms. Rahmé has built her several hundred components, she started composingssuccess on little more than fancy wrappings (bottles cents, the main accord of which weaved only four to
with racy, dancer-like curves, emblazoned with the seven ingredients. And in those few masterfully selectimage of a subway token) and canny marketing gim- ed strokes she was able to conjure images and sensations that were previously rarely experienced.
micks.
"She does business her way or no way, and that is very Indeed, the learning and the dedication required were
hard," said a retailer who declined to be named, citing significant, because Ms. Grojsman’s path towards
becoming a perfumer was not straightforward. The
company policy.
test entailed identifying 10-12 different ingredients. I
Her reputation for ferocity was reinforced three years passed the test with flying colours, but it did not mean
ago by the very public rupture of her business alliance anything
with Olivier Creed, the owner of Creed fragrances.
We speak about her early work. “You came with difMs. Rahmé commissions her scents from internation- ferent experiences to perfumery.”
ally renowned perfumers, luring them with the promEach creator has a style that favours some ingredients
ise of creative independence.
and avoids others.
Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena - Feb. 28
If asked about the creative process, Ms. Grojsman
What can you smell, right now, reading this? Glossy would say that each creation is an experience.
21
Glen O. BRECHBILL
With the number of releases increasing rapidly every Chanel perfumes. After all, Chanel No5, the compayear, it is difficult not to wonder what might happen to ny's greatest fragrance hit, has been popular since its
the industry. Can the current oversaturation of the mar- launch in 1921.
ket be sustained?
Its iconic bottle is the most easily recognisable and
Right now the situation is not ideal. Why should there most photographed of any fragrance flacon.
be 50 fragrances that smell exactly the same? Some
change will have to take place in the industry, whether Despite the agelessness of the existing Chanel frait might be that the number of fragrance companies grances, Polge believes that the company mustn't rest
will decrease, or through the introduction of patenting on past glories.
of some sort.
Originally from Provence, Polge moved with his famAnother problematic issue has to do with the shortage ily to Grasse, known as the capital of perfume, when
of oil and the restrictions placed on the use of naturals he was in his early teens and soon developed an interthrough the incredible increase in their costs and the est in the traditional art of perfumery.
discoveries of their allergenic potential. In this light, it
is going to be difficult for perfumery to be as elaborate Although he didn't study chemistry, Polge went to unias it was before.”
versity before serving a traditional apprenticeship in
Grasse, where he learned a great deal from Jean
Channeling Chanel - March 31
Carles, the creator of the classic fragrance Ma Griffe.
His name and his face may not mean anything to them,
but Jacques Polge has undoubtedly found his way into
the bedrooms, bathrooms and handbags of women the
world over.
To create a version of the famously fresh, simple and
understated Allure which reflected the provocative
qualities Polge sensed in Mouglalis's husky voice, he
went back to the original, floral oriental fragrance.
He has earned compliments for women and indirectly For his next project, Polge is planning to delve into the
brought about first dates, second dates and even mar- company's past once more. He is about to start work
riage proposals. How? By creating some of the most on some more lost Chanel fragrances.
seductive fragrances on the market.
A Conversation With - Jacques Polge - April
Polge, you see, is a perfumer, or, as he is known in the
business, a "nose". And not just any nose. He is in Of course, we were eager to have Jacques Polge share
charge of perfumes at Chanel, one of the world's most his thoughts about the reasons why Chanel No 5 has
prestigious, successful and luxurious fashion brands. remained one of the world’s great all-time fragrance
classics though it was introduced in 1921.
Sitting at his vast desk, half of which is covered with
little bottles and jars of cardboard testers, Polge Jacques Polge also shared with us his thoughts about
agrees. "Curiously enough, the longest part of the how dramatically our industry has changed in contemprocess is to find a name for the fragrance because porary times.
more or less every name has been taken."
We spoke of what had inspired him to become a perCertainly, timelessness is a key characteristic of fumer.
22
When we asked Jacques Polge what he thought If you could think of one scent that you wished you
women wanted from fragrance in today’s world, he had created, which would it be and why?
was quick to respond.
Oh, please tell us more! Do you personally use any of
As for the influence of fashion on the fragrance expe- the above?
rience.
Your company name is AYREL Perfumes: Please
His observation triggered a discussion of the current review for us the scents that are available to our readtrend in America in which the public is increasingly ers and how they may be purchased.
looking for fragrances with benefit beyond a pleasurable and beautiful scent.
Thank you so much for taking the time to introduce
yourself and to discuss your ideas about fragrance. I
Finally, we asked, if he could look into his crystal ball, certainly hope there will be a new scent coming out
what does he think fragrance will be like in the future. soon...Wishing you all the best!
An Interview with René Laruelle - May 12
Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez - May 5
Proudest Moment -
Jean Patou, Hermes, Cartier and Chanel are the only
companies with in-house perfumers in the world. How
Fragrance notes that intrigue you (tell me the first that does it feel to be in such rarefied company?
come to mind as of this moment):
You must have an amazing sense of smell. Does that
Your compositions range from original fragrances to extend to everything?
reconstructions of historical scents. The ability to
bring a long forgotten aroma back to life is a very How do you train your sense of smell?
exciting prospect. Could you tell us about this
process?
How should a woman select a fragrance?
And how have the aromas of history influenced you as Have you ever been overwhelmed by a person wearing
a composer of fragrance?
way too much fragrance in an elevator?
Wow, René! I wouldn't say you were crazy, but rather, How much is too much?
inspired! About the incense, this is a very interesting
story.
Where should you apply it?
Do you continue to use incense in your home or work- When you smell several fragrances in a store, how do
place?
you clear your nose?
How do you feel about the current state of affairs in Your new fragrance, Sira des Indes, has a hint of
the international fragrance industry?
banana-milkshake aroma. Why are more fragrances
today food-related?
René - do you have your own theories?
23
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Life of a Perfumer - May 15
market he finds most disappointing, his reply would be
unequivocal.
"After years of fresh, fruity scents, what women now
want are textured, rich perfumes with an air of mystery Ineke Perfumer San Francisco - Aguust 10
and high quality.
The Education of a Classically Trained Perfumer
The success of Clinique's Elixir, thirty years after it
was first created, just goes to show the current mood. Asked to mention some of her mentors at ISIPCA, she
said, "I studied and worked with a lot of talented perWomen want new emotions: they want a distinctive fumers along the way.
scent that sends out a real message, which means
beautiful floral scents, new versions of vintage clas- When asked why she chose to organize her perfumes
sics, or contrastings scents made with the finest of in an alphabetical collection.
ingredients - pure luxury!
Ineke turned a longstanding love of literature and the
"Being a perfumer is a bit philosophical in that you visual arts into what she calls a "storytelling approach
have to listen out for and decode what people want. to perfume.
Through intuition and feeling we learn to tell stories
through scents and transform our brief into a fra- Ineke's perfumes throw a spotlight on the sensual
grance. Each collaboration with a brand is totally dif- details in a moment of scent.
ferent.
An Interview with Ayala Sender - August 17
Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger - July 10
What are your earlier fragrance experiences, and when
Is perfume an object of art or is it a luxury commodi- did you start to gain more than a passing interest.
ty?
Tell us about Ayala Moriel Parfums?
“Mystery.” Why is it that we smell; what do we smell;
how do we react to scents?
When and how did you start creating your own perfumes, were you self taught?
We sit inside the café in Montmartre with the sugar
white dome of the Sacré-Coeur basilica rising in the What are your favourite creations, and why?
distance.
Which other fragrances / houses do you admire, and
I notice an interesting ring Mr. Schwieger is wearing why?
and comment on its beautiful combination of various
metals and its slender facets that move within their set- Why did you change the house name from Quinta
tings.
Essentia?
“If you created a fragrance to represent Paris, what What is the process of creating a bespoke parfum for a
would you include?”
client?
If Mr. Schwieger is asked what about the fragrance What do you see as the future for Ayala Moriel?
24
What are you wearing at the moment?
Thank you for your time, Ayala.
An Interview with New York Times Critic - Aug. 22
are much more pleasant. She’s a fragrance designer
who’s worked for Calvin Klein, Elizabeth Arden and
Christian Dior, just to name a few. She’s sort of an
olfactory sociologist who can tell you which scented
soaps are popular in every part of the globe. And she
knows the science of scent.
Firstly, we wanted to know where his interest in scent
came from. Surprisingly, it all starts with Tom Cruise It’s something scientific involving molecules speeding
up in the heat, right?
Really? "Problem with air mass," he said. How's that?
But this pungent blend of car exhaust, sewage and
garbage is also competing with nicer smells. Just take
We started talking about the column.
a walk through Little Italy.
Do you think that by having their products criticised as
well as praised in the NYT will lead perfume houses But the semolina loaves and baguettes we see in the
window are baked at another site nearby. Joe Parisi
to do things differently?
says we were actually lured inside by the warm scent
We also asked Chandler his view on the fragrance of the pizza place across the street.
industry today.
So what are we smelling in here?
On the rise of the celebrity in perfume and it technically any different to a designer putting his name to a I almost smell herbs in there?
fragrance?
That other dirty, however, can be found just a few feet
On summer variations of scents ) Maybe I'm nuts, and away?
maybe I haven't smelled enough of them, but to make
a pretty categoric statement, every single one I've ever So are you saying there’s an equalizing effect here, if
you have enough of these food places outside will it
smelled has struck me as ( Fill In The Blank )?
get rid of the smell of the garbage?
On the meddling of classics - the way things don't
So we could see subway elevators sponsored by a frasmell like they used to?
grance company to make them smell better?
Eau D’New York in the Summer - August 25.
An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis - Oct. 26
Every fragrance consists of a blend of smells. A single
perfume for example may have as many as 200 differ- The question I asked was whether there were any particular smells from her childhood that had stayed with
ent ingredients some stronger than others.
her and influenced her career?
“That” is a sewer grate. Ann Gottlieb literally stopped
in her tracks when she noticed the odor while walking But when did she realise that this would be her career?
in Herald Square.
With this in mind how does a perfumer decide which
Gottlieb usually spends her days smelling things that ingredients would best fit their client's profile?
25
Glen O. BRECHBILL
For example how do colour, music and literature sug- "Today, the pressure is huge," she admits. "You can
gest suitable ingredients?
become very obsessed with one fragrance for a week
or two, but you can't spend too long on any one thing,
With so much time and energy being poured into the because you need to be thinking about winning more
design of a custom fragrance I ask Alexandra what she business."
hopes people take from her fragrances?
Birth of a Perfume - December 11
Knowing that Balahoutis is a well-read and extensively travelled person I wonder how much of her inspira- The presentation of an essai is a vulnerable moment
tion comes from the arts?
for a perfumer. Finally, Gautier said, 'Good. So what
do you have?'
Of course I cannot finish the interview without asking
the botanical perfumer herself which essences would Interview - Alain Boucheron - Dec. 31.
feature in a fragrance perfectly engineered to fit her
character?
Alain Boucheron talked to us about how consumer
attitudes have changed since 1988.
What the Nose Knows - Nov. 5
Of course, we had to ask Alain what role fragrance
"Fragrance is like a ribbon going through the past, plays in his life.
present and future."
He was very happy to learn about our program at the
Sitting at her desk in Paris, surrounded by phials of Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.
yellow liquids and photos of her three children,
Daniela Andrier is telling me how, as a child growing Interview - Massimo Ferragamo - Dec. 31
up in Germany, she used to spend hours in the bathroom mixing her mother's perfumes to form new ones. We met in his elegant offices in New York this Spring
to discuss Ferragamo's first fragrance, Salavatore
As recently as a decade ago, perfumery was an almost Ferragamo Pour Femme and to preview the company's
exclusively male profession.
upcoming introduction of Salvatore Ferragamo Pour
Homme.
Secrets of the trade were handed down from father to
son over generations. Lore had it that men have better When we asked Mr. Ferragamo if he was enjoying
noses because a woman's sense of smell was distorted being part of the fragrance world, his response was
by her menstrual cycle.
immediate and enthusiastic, "Yes!
When designers want to launch a perfume, they tender In discussing the proliferation of fragrances in recent
to Givaudan and its three main rivals.
years.
Their perfumers compete to fulfil the brief, working We laughed together about women's insatiable
out perfume "formulas" at their laptops in corporate- appetite for shoes and fragrances.
looking offices, which are then mixed in labs by
robots, before being refined, refined and refined again. We asked about the clearness, the clarity of the fragrance itself. We wondered if the absence of color was
26
a conscious choice.
today?
As for fragrance being considered one of Ferragamo's What is the first step in choosing a signature scent?
fashion accessories, Mr. Ferragamo stressed
Should they pick just one or use several scents
We asked Mr. Ferragamo where he looks for inspira- depending on their moods?
tion.
Can you talk about how scent triggers certain emoComing back to the present, we asked Mr. Ferragamo tions and feelings in our brains?
why he thinks designer fragrances are so popular.
Why do fragrances smell different on different people
Then, he spoke about what makes a fragrance classic. and how can someone feel comfortable trying something new?
Looking to the future and the role of fragrance - especially for people who will be working from home, we What should your scent say about you?
agreed it will require something really different.
How do you wear perfume during the winter season?
Interview - Donna Karan - Dec. 31
Which materials and ingredients tend to lend themselves to this season?
Donna is quick to reveal that she always relates fragrance to fashion. "The common denominator," she When applying fragrance, is it better to spritz it all
over you, or dab just at your pulse points?
explained, "is honesty and integrity."
Interview - Paco Rabanne - Dec. 31
Lastly, how can you tell when you’ve found the right
fragrance?
What Are Your Thoughts About The Future?
Conversations: Laurice Rahme - Feb 3.
What Do You See In The Future For Women?
Good Morning, Lauric e - Bonjour! Ca va?
What Inspired You To Create A Fragrance?
What Do You Believe Is The Future Of Fragrance?
2007
Ca va bien, merci! What would you like to talk about
today?
Excellent, tell me more about "Bonding" at Valentines
Day! Lol!
The Art of Perfume - Jan. 2007
That would be the new West Side, yes?
I asked Francois what the L’Artisan philosophy was
Lol! Where did you get the idea for West Side?
and he had this to say?
What is the L’Artisan customer like?
Ok, but let's go a step further - why the West Side for
this latest launch as opposed to any other locale?
What are your views on the fragrance industry of
27
Glen O. Brechbill
I see. Laurice, what are you wearing right now?
"ready"?
AHHHHH! Let's talk a little about this! When is the Ohhhh, I'm gonna be pushy about this one! I'm both a
launch date?
painter and a composer, I think this is why fragrance
appeals to me on so many different levels...I always
Any ideas about the bottle - Bond has become leg- have difficulty saying something is "finished". Have
endary for the beautiful bottles, especially most you experienced this with your perfumes?
recently with the Bleecker Street, Fire Island,
Chinatown bottles, etc.
I see! So speaking of music and perfection, back to
West Side! Inevitably, customers will on some level
Will all new Bond scents be decorated bottles?
associate the name with the legendary musical by
Bernstein and Sondheim. I put it on and started singing
So let me ask you this, Laurice: To what extent do you "tonight, tonight, I'll dah dah dah dah dah...."
listen to your own inner voice about "the final product" and to what extent do you feel you need to honor Yes, and that's why I love the bottle for West Side!
the customer?
While Bleecker's bottle is like stunning abstract art,
Great response. So, right now, you are wearing Bryant West Side makes me think of the new Jazz at Lincoln
Park, yes?
Center...The rose, the amber - the warmth of the composition is beautiful.
Ok, not sure if you've seen it, but Sacre Nobi (New
Yorker) of S-perfumes started a project last year enti- Do you know what surprised me most?
tled "Made by Blog". He chose two bloggers and two
perfumers to create each blogger’s "holy grail" per- At Sniffa, as everyone was putting on the scent and
fume. Readers now have an understanding of what it offering their wrists for sniffing, I loved how differtakes to make a great perfume, how many prototypes, ently the scent projected on each wearer. Some offered
etc. So you mentioned last time we spoke that you had more of the floral aspect, while others offered rich
been wearing “one of the versions” of Bryant amber tones...
Park...How many versions have there been so far?
So to this end, how do you consider how your fraLaurent is one of my favorite perfumers and I was so grances develop on other people when making the
thrilled to receive a beauitful bottle of Chelsea final decisions about a new scent?
Flowers during the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball 2006
breakfast. Thank you, Laurice. I want readers to real- When your perfumers are masters such as Michel or
ize that even with a name like Chelsea Flowers, the Maurice, or Laurent, I believe that you can trust them,
scent is green and fresh and men should not shy away and this is partly what makes many Bond scents so
from trying it!
dear to my heart.
That would be an absolute gift to not just me, but to Well, my heart is always in New York, always has
other Sniffapalooza participants as well! So 25 ver- been, always will be. Though I was born in Florida,
sions of Bryant Park?
my family is all from New York and so each time I
come to Manhattan, it feels like a homecoming. I think
Laurice, how do you know when a perfume is many people feel this way about New York, even if
28
they are not natives.
Already working on Spanish Haarlem? Geeeessh!
Laurice, we must have been friends in a past life, yes?
Now that I have magnificent scented memories,
specifically with the evocative Bond scents, I feel like
I have my own personal scents of New York always
with me, no matter where I go. Moreover, it seems that
each time I visit New York, I spend at least one day
wearing a Bond scent, and with all the adventures I
have during my visits a lot of strong scented associations have been formed.
So, to conclude for today, I want to turn the discussion
for a moment to the amazing staff at Bond.
I love it! The energy, the warmth, the excitement....the
international faces! Well done! I was most impressed!
I’ve spent quite a bit of time now with your staff.
Scented Memories - Feb. 18
So let's talk for a moment about what Bond has in
store for 2007.
Is it possible to bottle time in hope of capturing the
memory of a very special person and the poignant
That sounds amazing! I hope the international moments of her life?
PerfumeCritic team can assist you in getting the word
out! Any idea what we might expect Brooklyn to smell An Interview with Christopher Chong - April 2
like? Matzoh Balls? Russian Tea? Cannoli?
First, may I ask you how you became involved with
Oh wow! How exciting! Coney Island is about to have fragrances? Or again, where does this love of fraa major facelift, right? It’s about time that glorious grances of yours spring from?
playground returned to its original grandeur. Coney is
So New York!
When one talks about the creation of perfumes today,
a lot of focus is put on perfumers. A debate has arisen
My mind is already reeling with colors and notes that recently around the question of authorship in perI might find in a bottle of Coney Island - playful is my fumery with, as you know, different conclusions in
main image!
Holland and France. Yet at the same time it is quite
obvious that perfumery appears more and more to be
It seems that Bond launches a scent every summer - is the result of sophisticated teamwork akin to the level
this true? Can we expect summer releases to be a tra- of collective effort found in the making of a movie,
dition?
from designing the perfume, to composing it, blending
it, to packaging it and marketing it etc. What is exactThat's great. Bond has steadily been growing over ly the role of an artistic director in that enterprise, at
these past few years. At what point do you say, "Ok, least in the way that you see it?
we're done, enough is enough?" Where is all this
going?
The Royal family of Oman seems to be very close to
Amouage especially since they are the ones who
Will certain scents be retired to make room for new established the house in 1983. How much input do you
scents? And at what point do we see offshoots of receive from them? Are they the ones who come up
neighborhoods such as Spanish Haarlem of with the original briefs?
Williamsburg?
It is fascinating to see that Amouage did not start just
Seems like we're thinking along the same lines!
as a business venture but also seems to have been
29
Glen O. BRECHBILL
structured to correspond to the royal family's needs of establish more of a masculine and feminine character?
gift-giving and hospitality. Does this orientation lend a It seems that the Arabian heritage in this case works
particular character to your perfume house?
towards the creation of flamboyant masculine fragrances.
Regarding the latest Amouage releases, Reflection
Men and Women, how did the back and forth with I have noticed that the Amo-uage fragrances have a
Maurice Roucel and Lucas Sieuzac take place? What soothing, calming effect. Has this characteristic been
were your sources of inspiration?
brought to your attention before? Is it due to the high
proportion of natural ingredients that you use? Has silThe perfume market seems very much driven by ver frankincense any particular properties?
trends. There are certain conflicting notions about
whether perfumery ought to be more of an art-for- What is your next project? You mentioned that you
art's-sake phenomenon, versus being unabashedly a were going to create oil-based perfumes?
fashion phenomenon. Luxury, it seems to me, is more
about aiming at conveying an image of timelessness; Finally, a little ritual. Apart from the Amouage perthe Amouage perfumes all seem to bear a classic, fumes, what are the 10 perfumes that you think everyatemporal quality. What kind of balance do you try to one should experience at least once in their lifetimes?
achieve?
Exposing the Perfumer - April 3
In what ways has Guy Robert left his mark and continues to leave his mark on Amouage?
As you see it, what are the advantages of heightening
traditionally trained perfumers’ profile in the industry
It is striking to see how the discourse around perfume- and media?
wearing in the Middle East puts emphasis on the inner
life. Amouage is no exception. Why do you think there In your educated opinion, what are the makings of a
is this propensity to evoke the moral life? What does genuine “perfumer”?
"Reflection" mean by the way here exactly?
What are the roots of the fragrance industry’s secrecy?
Amouage with its Arabian heritage is also very much
a cross-cultural product of Western and Middle- Coinciding with your article, Givaudan perfume
Eastern influences. How do you take these influences school head Jean Guichard has allowed the partial
into account in your work? Do you have perfumes that publication of Jean Carles’ olfactive training charts.
sell more in the Middle East and others more in the What is their historical significance and why is it
West?
important that they be displayed to the wider fragrance
industry?
When experiencing the different perfumes in your
line, one cannot but be struck by the beauty of the What, if anything, do you make of the natural vs. syningredients and compositions, their luxuriance and thetic debates taking place among traditional and selflushness. So much so that conventional coded gender trained “perfumers”? What is the significance of those
lines in perfumery start feeling blurrier. Gold Men is conversations?
as rich as Gold Women, if not even more so. How do
you determine these differences? What accords or
ingredients or proportions of ingredients allow you to
30
Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions
Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer - April 15
and its History?
What's your favourite beauty product?
As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and
what keeps it fresh and interesting?
Do you have a beauty secret?
What are your best and worst features?
What has been your biggest beauty disaster?
Would you ever consider having cosmetic surgery?
What's in your bathroom cabinet?
What are you most excited about sharing with the
Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or
products in the range and what about them do you
think makes them register to so many people?
What can our guests look forward to in the New
Product/Release department?
Shave or wax?
Neil Morris - The Proust of Perfume - May 22
Would you leave chipped nail varnish on or remove it
right away?
Neil, your approach to fragrance reminds me of the
great author Proust’s approach to literature. Explain to
Do you prefer a real or bottled tan?
our readers your relationship with fragrance.
What is your signature fragrance?
You have a custom clientele in Boston and fragrances
were created for individuals only. When was the retail
How would you recommend going about buying a business launched?
new perfume?
What are your two newest scents? And of course, what
Are you brand-loyal?
are the “stories” that influence you to create them.
What's the best beauty treatment you've had?
How did you learn to put on your make-up?
What inspires you when creating perfumes?
Although your focus is on growing your retail business, I know our readers would love to learn a little
about your custom clientele business. Ok, pretend, I
am a new customer and I want you to create a fragrance just for me. Then what?
Coming Up Smelling Roses - May 16
BTW, I have trouble wearing florals, you are right.
They smell too strong on me. Neil, any DO’S and
What do you remember your mother smelling like don’ts of wearing fragrance in summer?
when you were a child? Vanilla cake? Laundry powDavid, you have been so quiet, what is the biggest
der? Perfume?
challenge in growing the Neil Morris Fragrance retail
business?
Perfumer Neil Morris Interview - May 17
Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your perfumes,
31
Glen O. Brechbill
Conversation - Serena Ava Franco - June 4
They are edgy in some way...
It certainly was meant as a compliment!! How long
does it usually take you to create a scent, and how do
To jump right in, how did you first get into making you know when a scent is done?
perfume?
That's a lot of work. Which scent gave you the most
How long have you been mixing your own perfumes trouble in terms of perfecting the scent?
in this way?
Yet it is, I think, one of your masterpieces. It is one of
How did you come to the decision to open your own my favorite interpretations of "loukhoum".
business?
I only speak the truth. J What are your strengths and
I can imagine, though, that opening your own business weaknesses, do you think, as a perfumer?
must have been difficult in many ways. What did you
have the most problem with and how did you over- I know from your blog that you’re also interested in
astrology. Can you tell me your sun, moon, and ascencome it?
dant sign? (Your sun sign is Aries, yes?)
I can't believe you have no helpers! How do you keep
My sun moon and ascendant are Taurus, Scorpio, and
your turnaround time so fast?
Gemini.
I really admire your work ethic!
I have no idea. My birthday is on the 26th
I've read on your site that you draw your inspiration
I think so. With the Sun in an opposite sign as the
from pop culture. Can you be more specific?
moon, that makes a full moon
But more about you...
Do you think the signs describe you well?
What are some of your favorite notes in perfume? And
In what other ways are you an Aries?
what are your least favorite?
Are you up to answering some questions?
What is your personal favorite from your line, and I wish I could see you in real life!
where did you draw the inspiration for that scent?
That would be fun to see! ...What are some favorite
I was wondering about that! My personal favorite is scents from other houses?
Angel Face. Where did you get the inspiration for that
You have great taste! Speaking of taste, what is your
scent?
taste in clothes? How do you usually dress?
It really does smell like that...Show me a glimpse of
your process. How do you decide on your top, heart, Okay, one last question. What’s in the future for Ava
Luxe?
and bottom notes for a scent?
You've captured the essence of your scents perfectly.
32
That's wonderful. I know many ask about a brick-and- Don't let Anna Wintour hear you say that...unless she
mortar store in the San Diego area.
wants me to do the blogging! But hey, what effect do
you think bloggers have had on your own fragrances
Well, thank you, Serena. It's been a lot of fun chatting or your own creative vision?
with you!
Yeah! You’d have a lot of disappointed readers.
Conversations: Andy Tauer - June 20, 2007
So this is an interesting phenomenon readers influencing the creation of a fragrance.
Hey Andy, how ya doin?
I'm great, thanks. What are you up to?
You’re faced with a wish from the community about
an idea which you don’t necessarily agree with.
And I can't wait to try it. So this is your 3rd fragrance
So, I see that you’ve been busy with interviews recentfor Tauer Perfumes; how did you get started?
ly. What have you been learning about yourself or
your creative process as a result of these interviews?
It does seem an odd place to start...
And what else have you learned?
Ah-hah!
And I really love the richness of the notes used in Hmmm. You know, some composers say that they
Maroc. It reminds me of a Middle Eastern attar, but don’t want to listen to other people’s music so as not
with deeper tones and a much more layered approach. to taint their mode of expression or approach…how
about a perfumer?
So how were sales when you first put Maroc in the
I mean, do you worry about the comments and sugstore?
gestions?
What changed things?
True. I listened to my readers when re-designing my
Isn’t it amazing how the internet and more specifical- newer site
ly, blogs, can support sales of fragrance?
I was surprised to see comments on similar topics, but
It’s true. I get samples from fragrance companies and with completely opposite perspectives. Still, it’s been
they send me emails asking if my reviews will be pos- fun taking this creative journey. Of course it does at
itive. In a couple of instances, when the reviews times feel like a job. Do you have a fear that this busiweren’t glittering, the fragrance companies just ness could get too big for you, that you may in fact
turn into a larger company?
stopped communicating with me.
Yeah, I know that Chandler Burr has an upcoming article about just what the current definition of niche is. I
think he’s writing it for the New York Times…God, I
would love to write for the Times…Hey if any of you
Times folk are reading, here I am! ( sorry for that
shameless plug, Andy ).
Tell me about it. A number of perfumers have been
bemoaning the growing difficulty of obtaining the
quality ingredients they need to fulfill their own creative visions. On a different note though, let’s look at
a company like Jo Malone bought out by Estee Lauder
what do you think of this?
33
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Andy, your creations are not just special, they are When did you establish your business ROUGE
spectacular. Do you think you are influenced by CURACAO and why this name in particular?
scents you already know and love?
Could you explain to us what you do as a fragrance
Scents from those very houses that are creating mass- consultant? On what perfumes have you worked?
market fragrance?
What were some of your best experiences?
What draws you to other people’s scents? The images? What do you make of the increased number of launchThe bottles? The concepts?
es that now seem ready to invade the market not even
on a yearly basis, but on a quarterly basis? It seems
You’re braver than I am. I usually just have to “play” that more perfumes are "improvised" over the course
at the perfume counter…though recently I feel more of a 3-month period, perfumes that were not even
like a trainer. It’s amazing the things that the salespeo- announced in advance but seem to correspond to the
ple don’t know. But that could be another conversation perceived need to respond to a very competitive marentirely. What do you look for when choosing a per- ket. What is the shortest period of time in which you
fume for personal use?
know that a marketed perfume was created?
Ok, so if you could revive a long lost scent and bring Do you think that most perfumers think of their proback the original composition.
fession as an art or do they think more commonly or
realistically perhaps of it as a craft with more limited
My feelings about Jicky… well…I can understand the goals?
creative vision behind it, and I do actually wear it from
time to time, but I prefer my lavender and civet in a lit- Do you think that there is a crisis in perfumery today?
tle mouchoir…Mouchoir de Monsieur is a wonder and If not, what are the optimistic signs of well-being? If
easier to wear than Jicky in my opinion…perhaps even yes, what do you think should be done to overcome the
for a woman.
crisis?
Do you ever worry about including odd notes?
Do you have any favorite perfumers?
So Andy, bottom line (you know I love to use that What is your position on authorship in perfumery?
phrase), what makes a great perfume…well, great.
Should or can perfumes be copyrighted?
Interview with Nicolas Olczyk - July 6
What are the differences that you see between French
and American tastes for perfumes, if any? Are these
How did you become interested in perfumes and when taken into account for the creations of different formudid you know it was going to become your profession? lations for the "same perfumes" that will be sold in difWas there an epiphany, an aha moment or was it more ferent markets?
progressive?
What interesting trends do you see emerge in perHow did you become interested in perfumes and when fumery today? What future developments do you predid you know it was going to become your profession? dict are going to take place?
Was there an epiphany, an aha moment or was it more
What are the launches you are looking forward to?
progressive?
34
And now for our little ritual: what are the 10 perfumes trip to the orient: tell me about the creation of Alamut
you think that people ought to experience at least once - what was that journey like?
in their lifetime?
A shelter, a “place of the flow ers” as the word
Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi - July 11
Gulistan suggests, where you can dream…?
Good morning, Dr. Villoresi.
First of all, I congratulate you for having won the prestigious award “François Coty 2006”. Previous editions
winners (among which I remember were Jacques
Cavalier, Maurice Roucel, Francis Kurkdjian, and
other renowned international noses) are certainly
linked by close collaborations with the Majors of the
perfume industry. This award is a great acknowledgement to your art and your commitment and of course a
great pride for the artistic perfumery and the Italian
tradition: there must be something new in the air?
Speaking of scented visions, your Florentine office
located at Via de’ Bardi is famous in the general imagination of people passionate about scents as a crossroad of famous people from show biz, international
politicians, intellectuals, and fellow perfumers. With
regard to this, you describe yourself as a medium, a
simple interpreter of the desires, even the intimate
ones, of the customer. Here the curiosity teases us
about how many anecdotes you could tell! Has your
approach to a custom tailored perfume always been to
act as a medium, or is it simply a result of experience?
Have you always been such an able interpreter of different visions for personalized scents?
Definitely your words correspond to a passion for
excellence, the link with the tradition and the Italian
taste for perfumery, in particular its Florentine roots this has brought you to other cultural projects related
to the world of perfumery. For example, the commitment you made, since several years ago, participating
in Italy’s Pitti Immagine, an event that brings together
creative minds of all sorts, in the making of
“Fragranze ”, a celebration of olfaction with numerous
famous panelists and guest speakers (such as Guy
Robert, Chandler Burr, etc.). The event, in its fourth
year, has seen 102 brands participating and is becoming more and more one of the most important
European references for arts and culture related to the
artistic perfumery. Certainly we’d like to be invited to
participate in the next event. As for the past events,
could you make tell us about some of your impressions?
This cultural project features you also at the front line
in creating a Perfume’s Art Academy based in
Florence As an Italian, I must confess I’m proud and
also very curious about it… Can you tell us more
about this?
It’s interesting this all-round approach; hence not only
education so but also creation. Good!
I understand, but in the beginning there must be found
a meeting point, a common ground between you and Certainly this is an ambitious project that requires lots
of energy. We wish you good luck! I can figure out
the customer, mustn’t there?
that, taking care of so many projects going on, you
In addition to custom tailored perfumery, you dedicat- have very little free time left to think about the longed yourself also to your own perfume line, among term future. Nevertheless, would you comment about
which I like to remember the ancestors Donna and your future personal projects?
Uomo, but also other successes like Musk, Teint de
neige and Yerbamate. The last born, that has certainly Well, I can say nothing more but to wish you continbeen a lucky charm to you, Alamut, is inspired by a ued enthusiasm and passion. I eagerly await your new
35
Glen O. BRECHBILL
ventures and look forward to trying these new “scent- What advice would you give to someone with an aspied visions”.
ration and creative passion for perfume or music?
What’s In a Summer Scent - July 24
Fabrice Penot of Le Labo - July 30
What's in a summer scent?
How did it come about that Kirsten Dunst wore this
perfume for her role as Marie-Antoinette in the Sofia
Coppola's movie?
Her all-time classic perfume:
Did you create the perfume with some historical specifications in mind? (I am thinking of the presence of
the cologne accord and perhaps the tuberose note that
Marie-Antoinette is said to have loved.)
Her fave spice: nutmeg
Her fave herb: lemongrass
Wishes she'd created: L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
One can find the tuberose to be quite present in the fragrance in the end; why however this preference for a
What's your idea of a summer scent?
"hidden" tuberose that makes a noted delayed
Is cologne still cool or has it been overtaken by fresh entrance?
eaux de toilette?
Who is the perfumer that created Tubéreuse 40 and
how did the perfume project and the perfumer meet or
What ingredients do summer perfumes contain?
establish connection (do you work with briefs)?
What's in this summer in the world of perfume?
Thank you very much.
The Interpreter of Accords - July 27
Interview with a Perfumer - August 6
Are there any new scents that you admire?
Did you have formal training?
Can you tell us about your beginnings with scent?
What's an average day?
How did you intially get into the business?
Conversations: Sharon Bolton - August 7
Are you a perfumer?
I'm not too bad, thanks. How about you?
When you are composing a piece of music, do you use
scent as a tool for inspiration?
Oh, nice Smile … business-related?
Do you think there is a correlation between fragrance Oh very cool, we may have to talk about that a bit later
classifications and genres of music? How do you per- (if it's not top secret! LOL).
ceive their similarities - Could you give us some
examples of what a fragrance classification would So, shall we get started with some questions?
sound like if it were a piece of music?
So am I. Firstly, how did you come up with the idea of
36
making your own scents?
Oh yeah, Santa Barbara would have that feel to it as
well Smile
Very interesting! Just out of curiosity, what was the
discontinued fragrance that you used to wear?
Definitely it's winter here in Australia at the
moment…so I've purposely been wearing both Soul &
Yep...heard of them (they have some yummy smelling Luv the past couple of weeks, so it takes my mind off
stuff!!
the fact that it's cold here.
So you're originally from Canada! What part?
They are, thank you Smile
Oh nice I'd love to go to Canada one day!! I have a lot Why did you decide to make your scents as perfume
of friends from college there.
oils, rather than Eau de Parfum or Parfum? Was it
because of the reactions you had to EDPs?
Definitely!! Lol. So, when did you start Sharon Bolton
Scents? And how did that come about? Because, I read I can imagine… but the perfume oils are great,
on your site that you weren't always in the fragrance because (at least on me) they last so much longer than
industry.
traditional EDPs and parfums
Really interesting. On your site, you liken scents to
music, saying they “flow in a tantalizing rhythm evoking fond memories and stirring emotions”. As a musician, I found this to be absolutely true!!! I love that
description!! Is music something you enjoy a lot of?
Are there any stories behind the names of your scents,
Luv, Soul & Truth?
Oh that is very cool!! And it's so true that you can't
live without those 3 elements in our lives.
I listen to a whole lot of different genres...but I love Sounds like a good plan to me. As well as the perfume
my rock (especially classic rock!!) How about you?
oils, you also have other products in each of the 3
scents. Can you tell us a bit about them?
Very cool Jazz is great..and Hip-Hop's good as well.
My sister's a bit Hip-Hop/Rap fan, so I'm always hear- And, I also read on your website that your products
ing that coming out of her stereo!
have no dyes or pigments added, are cruelty free and
the packaging is 100% recyclable. I think that’s great!
Getting back to your company...what was the first
product you introduced, and what was the inspiration Are you a very hands-on boss? I know you mentioned
behind it?
that you drove to LA to see the progress of your new
candles…. do you help make your other products?
Gardenias are gorgeous... and you can really smell How many people have you got on your team to help
them in Luv. Both Luv & Soul are so tropical...they're you out?
really beautiful scents! I've never been to Hawaii, but
I can imagine it'd smell like your scents, for sure! I Oh nice, so it's a very intimate (is that the right word?)
have been to Bali though, and I got a bit of déjà vu environment to work in.
when I tried both Luv & Soul...made me want to be
back there in the tropics!
Now, you don’t just sell these gorgeous scented products either you sell sarongs and jewellery! Can you tell
37
Glen O. BRECHBILL
us a bit about them?
PerfumeCritic, so that's good to know.
They are beautiful I've been asking my parents (nicely, of course), if they can buy me one for my birthday
next month!!! I haven't had a reply yet…but you
never know.
Finally (because I think we're running out of time),
what’s next for Sharon Bolton Scents? Are there any
secrets you’re willing to share with us at
PerfumeCritic? lol
Your scents have been reviewed by a few different
websites and publications, including StyleBakery.com
(in their “Designers on the Rise” section),
BlogforBeauty.com… what do you think of the
reviews you’ve been given?
Well...thanks so much for taking some time out of
your busy schedule to chat with me!! It was so much
fun, and I learned a lot about Sharon Bolton Scents,
and the fabulous lady behind the company.
Haha...thanks! You know, I've never thought about
J Marlen recently reviewed Truth on PerfumeCritic - journalism as a career... plus, it would mean I'd have to
fantastic review! And I hope to review both Soul & go to school again (noooooooooooo!! lol).
Luv very soon…
Thanks again Sharon - catch up with you soon.
No problem! Now...you’ve even got a celebrity fan, in
Soul queen Patti LaBelle!! How did you find that out? Conversations with Sarah Horowitz -Thran - Sept. 1
Wow!! That's fantastic!! A great story too Smile
Hi, Sarah. Thanks again for agreeing to chat. I was
looking at the bio on your website and saw that you
She seems like a nice lady, from what I've read about started your career working part-time at a Boston perher on the net she's got a great heart (and a fantastic fumery while you were studying theatre at
voice too!!).
EmersonCollege. Was this when your love for fragrance began to develop, or did you always feel you
Your scents are available in selected boutiques and had a special connection to it?
stores in California, plus Hawaii, Michigan &
Pennsylvania, as well as a couple of online stores (all It makes sense that you were a theatre major if you
info can be found on your website www.sharonbolton- love all things sensual. Also, It sounds like you have a
scents.com ) do you have any plans on expanding your natural curiosity about people. I can't imagine anyone
sales to include stores in other US states, and possibly working at that particular perfumery if they did not.
internationally?
What you do sounds almost like aromatherapy, or,
maybe like short-term aromatherapy. Do you think of
And, speaking for Australia, we'd love to have your yourself as an aromatherapist?
products sold here!!
You take your clients what you call The Fragrance
And, of course, all of your products are available on Journey to bring out that "profound emotional
your website can they be purchased by non-US resi- response." It sounds like this process evolved over
dents?
time. I looked at the online Fragrance Journey. How
different is it from one that you take a client on perFantastic - because we have a few different countries sonally? Are the questions the same, more involved,
represented by the visitors (and even writers) on etc.?
38
Say I had an appointment with you for a Fragrance What are your influences as a designer?
Journey. What could I expect?
How did you come up with the idea of scent layering, are, in your opinion, their characteristic features?
or "wardrobing?" Do you consider yourself to be a
pioneer when it comes to this?
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you
The idea of layering scents is something that’s never
really appealed to me. I find it too challenging. I guess How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fraI’m afraid of making a mistake and smelling bad!
grance brands?
What scents do you, yourself, like to combine?
Do you have a wish for the future?
Are drawn more drawn to particular types of scents? An Interview with Ineke Ruhland - October 3
(Florals, gourmands, citrus…?
Had you made any commercial perfumes prior to your
Do you think there's a particular reason why you've Ineke fragrances?
been craving green notes lately, or is it "just because?"
Which other perfumers do you admire?
Yes, it makes sense. It's like you don't need a fragrance
to make you feel sexy at this point in your life.
What happens when you get to Z and how long is that
expected to take?
I really love the Joy Comes From Within sample you
sent! I know you said it’s all about a California.
Do you feel that the internet is becoming a way for
independent perfumers to market themselves effecWhich of your perfumes is your personal favorite and tively?
why?
What inspires you?
So what’s next for you? What are your future plans for
Creative Scentualization?
Apart from D - Z, what are your future plans for the
Ineke brand?
What's the book you're writing about?
Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge - Oct. 4
Sounds very interesting. I hope I get to read it one day!
I'd love to hear about your other projects as you're able They say a bottle of Chanel No. 5 is sold every thirty
to talk about them. Also…let me know when you're seconds. What's the key to such success?
making any appearances in NYC again so I can stop
by and say hello! Thanks again and enjoy your week! But lighter perfumes are becoming popular. Isn't that
the worldwide trend?
Marie Salamagne - An Interview - Sept. 5
Is there a right way to use perfume?
Marie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the fragrances you’ve created.
Are some perfumes particularly suited for certain peo39
Glen O. BRECHBILL
ple while others are not?
How interactive is the dinner for a guest? What kinds
of things are asked of someone in attendance? Need
You can distinguish an ingredient among thousands of they be well-versed in fragrance before they attend?
others just by very slight differences. What's the secret
of doing that?
What are your future plans for the Rosewood Scent
Dinners? Can we expect a regular series of them?
Which perfume would you recommend for a woman
in her mid-twenties who is falling in love?
The Man Behind the Hat - Romano Ricci - Oct. 8
Interview with Chandler Burr - Oct. 4
My invitation from Canada's high-end retail fashion
and beauty store Holt Renfrew arrived via email.
How did the idea for the scent dinners first come Would I like to meet Romano Ricci, the force behind
about? Had you been thinking about it for a while or 'Juliette has a gun’?
was it more of an idea that you acted on impulsively?
I initially wondered who Juliette was and what exactWhat made you choose the Rosewood chain of hotels? ly did she have in mind with that gun?
Did you approach them or did they approach you?
I wonder if he is Romeo? and if he has a muse? If not,
To plan for this event, where did you start - obviously could he describe this woman to me?
with the fragrances themselves, yes?
Conversations: Laurie Erickson - Oct. 9
What was the process of choosing the particular fragrances that corresponded to the courses like? Once When did you become interested in perfume and what
the fragrance was chosen, did you work with chef was the first perfume you ever wore?
Jimmy Sakatos closely to conceive the course or did
you let him have complete control over the food part So did Sonoma Scent Studio get started due to your
of the event?
love of flowers and the desire to preserve their fragrance - can you tell us the story of what led you to
What kind of work did you have to do to prepare for start your own perfumery?
the dinner - research, etc.?
How do you feel about using natural versus synthetics
What did you find was the hardest thing about the in perfume?
entire process?
Is there really a difference between using organics and
Did you only use gourmand fragrances? Would you scents created in a laboratory?
ever choose a Chypre or a White Floral?
I agree with you - I find that many 100% organic fraWhat was the most surprising thing that has happened grances don't last on my skin or in the bottle, and they
during one of your scent dinners?
turn fairly quickly.
As a guest of your scent dinner, what should I know Can you explain the difference between an Absolute
before attending?
and an Essential oil for our readers?
40
So perfumery is both an art and a science!
grance? (You can only choose one!)
Do you distill your own essences (tinctures), and could As a self-taught perfumer, what one piece of advice
you briefly explain the process for our readers?
would you give to a student of perfume who wants to
create their own fragrances?
It sounds absolutely fascinating, which brings me to
my next question: what is the strangest/most unusual Do you create bespoke (custom private blends) for
thing you've ever tried to distill? I recall a natural per- your clients?
fumer telling me she once tinctured the hair of a billy
goat, and it gave me a good laugh, as billy goats are I would imagine there's so much work involved, but
quite smelly animals!
also tremendous satisfaction. There is something so
special about having a fragrance made that is only creIt sounds beautiful. Is Sonoma Scent Studio open for ated for you - that nobody else has! It’s very personal.
tours by appointment and do you see yourself conducting a perfume workshop for those who'd like to Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques - Oct. 19
learn more?
Asked on the future of fragrance notes for the upcomWhat distinguishes Sonoma Scent Studio from other ing seasons.
independent perfumeries?
What is your most cherished fragrant memory?
In my opinion, your Fireside perfume is one of the
best interpretations of wood smoke and a blazing fire- What's your favourite spice?
place I have ever smelled. It's an authentic, incredible
smelling perfume that somehow smells more complete Your favourite colour?
than other fragrances that try to capture wood smoke
and fire, like Annick Goutal Eau de Fier and John What music to prefer to listen to?
Galliano's room spray. Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside
is a beauty. Do you think you'll make a matching Your favourite season?
scented candle for Fireside in the future?
Favourite time of the day?
Which fragrance is your best seller and which one is
your personal favorite?
Which country do you like best?
I'm curious; do fragrances have visual images and And what city, if at all?
sounds for you when you create a new one? For example, when I wear Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, I 'see' Do you have an everyday indulgence?
it as an indigo perfume, and the music I associate with
it is Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata. What are your Which alcoholic beverage do you prefer?
thoughts on this?
And your favourite dish?
Do you have a favorite theme like woods/incense
/fruits/florals?Whom would you consider the greatest Do you have an idol, someone you admire a lot?
master perfumer, and what is your Holy Grail fra-
41
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Who wouldn't ask a perfumer what perfume he hasn't Is it possible to re-launch those 'Napoleonic' colognes
created himself he admires a lot...So which is it?
from 18-19 centuries and could they have the same
success nowadays?
Do you have a dream you hope it gets realised?
Could you describe your vision or concept of Lubin
Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin - Oct. 23
House development (or should I say Evolution?) in
next 3-5 years? Do you prefer re-launches – or new
How did the idea to revive The House of Lubin came scents? Do you prefer unknown beauty – or commerto you? Isn't it a great responsibility to make perfumes cial success?
under this historical brand name?
About Lubin bottles. I've seen the new bottle models
Some info about the Idole-2005 project: Why did you and like them very much. But Lubin's bottle for Eva
choose to launch this scent at Lubin first, instead of made by Lalique is just marvelous are you going to
others? How did you choose Olivia Giacobetti and make luxury editions of Lubin again?
Serge Mansau for that project?
All the people have their dreams. What are the dreams
You are working on new colognes: "Le Vetiver" and of Gilles Thevenin?
"L'Eau Neuve". Could you give more information
about those scents? Why did you choose those themes: Imagine yourself as a futurologist. How the Perfume
Vetiver and Citrus-Patchouli colognes? Is it homage to industry will look like in 2007? In ten years? 50 years?
classic themes – or you feel that there`re no perfect
scents in those categories? What are their briefs given What are your 10 favourite perfumes – The "Best of
the World" Perfumes?
to perfumer? Timing of launches?
Some perfume aficionados cry over a lot of French
perfumes (like Guerlain, Rochas and Dior) they were
beautiful at the days of launch, but now are the shady
copies. They are buying vintage bottles… Would you
change the formulas of new relaunches?
You mentioned that another perfumer from Grasse,
Lucien Ferrero, instead of O. Giacobetti has created
the last fragrances. Would you please name some reasons for that switch? Could you give us more info
about his perfumes made for other brands?
Are you going to re-launch some other Lubin's classic,
like Gin-Fizz, Nuit de Longchamp, Fougère, Eva,
Fumée, etc.? Do you have all those archives with original formulas – or ready perfumes stock? Could you
describe your work with archives (should I say Lubin's
Perfume Treasury?)? Any relations your House has
with Osmothèque Paris?
Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi - Nov. 7
First of all, I congratulate you for having won the prestigious award “François Coty 2006”. Previous editions
winners (among which I remember were Jacques
Cavalier, Maurice Roucel, Francis Kurkdjian, and
other renowned international noses) are certainly
linked by close collaborations with the Majors of the
perfume industry. This award is a great acknowledgement to your art and your commitment and of course a
great pride for the artistic perfumery and the Italian
tradition: there must be something new in the air?
Speaking of scented visions, your Florentine office
located at Via de’ Bardi is famous in the general imagination of people passionate about scents as a crossroad of famous people from show biz, international
politicians, intellectuals, and fellow perfumers. With
regard to this, you describe yourself as a medium, a
42
simple interpreter of the desires, even the intimate
ones, of the customer. Here the curiosity teases us
about how many anecdotes you could tell! Has your
approach to a custom tailored perfume always been to
act as a medium, or is it simply a result of experience?
Have you always been such an able interpreter of different visions for personalized scents?
This cultural project features you also at the front line
in creating a Perfume’s Art Academy based in
Florence As an Italian, I must confess I’m proud and
also very curious about it… Can you tell us more
about this?
It’s interesting this all-round approach; hence not only
education so but also creation. Good!
I understand, but in the beginning there must be found
a meeting point, a common ground between you and Certainly this is an ambitious project that requires lots
the customer, mustn’t there?
of energy. We wish you good luck! I can figure out
that, taking care of so many projects going on, you
In addition to custom tailored perfumery, you dedicat- have very little free time left to think about the longed yourself also to your own perfume line, among term future. Nevertheless, would you comment about
which I like to remember the ancestors Donna and your future personal projects?
Uomo, but also other successes like Musk, Teint de
neige and Yerbamate. The last born, that has certainly Well, I can say nothing more but to wish you continbeen a lucky charm to you, Alamut, is inspired by a ued enthusiasm and passion. I eagerly await your new
trip to the orient: tell me about the creation of Alamut ventures and look forward to trying these new “scent- what was that journey like?
ed visions”.
A shelter, a “place of the flowers” as the word Gulistan Conversations: Jo Hook - Nov. 18
suggests, where you can dream…?
Hi Jo. How are you feeling?
Definitely your words correspond to a passion for
excellence, the link with the tradition and the Italian That's good Smile Well, I guess we should get started!
taste for perfumery, in particular its Florentine roots this has brought you to other cultural projects related Can you tell us how The Goddess Line started?
to the world of perfumery. For example, the commitment you made, since several years ago, participating Ok, great. Before you started Lakshmi, did you work
in Italy’s Pitti Immagine, an event that brings together in the fragrance industry? Or was it a passion of yours?
creative minds of all sorts, in the making of
“Fragranze ”, a celebration of olfaction with numerous Oh ok. Wow, I like that phrase you used.
famous panelists and guest speakers (such as Guy
Robert, Chandler Burr, etc.). The event, in its fourth Hmmm Smile Well, I think you're doing it the right
year, has seen 102 brands participating and is becom- way, no matter how it started! :)
ing more and more one of the most important
European references for arts and culture related to the So what industry did you work in before your acciartistic perfumery. Certainly we’d like to be invited to dent, and before you started Lakshmi?
participate in the next event. As for the past events,
could you make tell us about some of your impres- Ok. For those who don't know what a life coach is,
sions?
could you briefly explain what you do? (And then
we'll get into the scents! Smile)
43
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Now, let's get back to The Goddess Line. Which of the Oh true! :) Before we go on with the scent, can I say
scents was the first to be developed?
that you've picked 3 great goddesses to represent your
scents
Ah, of course, hence the company name Smile Let's
talk about that one first then Smile
Livia: The lemongrass is strong; Athena would've
been a strong lady god Smile
Could you please tell us who Lakshmi is?
I guess it's time to look at the third scent, Parvati
Alright - just thought I'd ask because we have a lot of
international readers who may not know who she is She's the Indian goddess of...
Smile
Oh true! :) Before we go on with the scent, can I say
What kind of a fragrance is Lakshmi?
that you've picked 3 great goddesses to represent your
scents
I'm just having a bit of a sniff as you're explaining it...
definitely sultry! Smile
Ok, back to Parvati - can you tell us about this scent,
please?
Definitely. I find that with Egyptian musk brings out
that aspect of a scent.
I've got to say, I love all 3 of your scents, but Parvati
is the one I've worn most, I really love the
Oh yeah. I haven't tried too many scents with that vanilla/musk/amber combination
ingredient so far, but of the couple I have tried, they've
always had that same feeling
All 3 scents come in various products - including the
limited edition bottles.
For sure! The next scent we could look at is Athena.
Could you tell us a bit about the goddess the scent's Where are the bottles made? They're gorgeous!
named after?
Smile Close enough - next state on from New York,
Now, Athena is a Greek goddess, whereas Lakshmi & isn't it?
Parvati are Indian, am I right?
And the bottles are different for each scent... just
Smile You know, I can definitely see why this one is thought I should point that out, for the readers who
linked with Athena it's clean and fresh, something an haven't been to your site
active person would wear And Athena would've been
very active, being the warrior goddess
Then you have the roll-on scents. Was this the original
way you wanted the scents to be stored?
The lemongrass is strong; Athena would've been a
strong lady god Smile
Smile Your scents don't contain water or alcohol, is
that right?
I guess it's time to look at the third scent, Parvati
Nice! Smile What do you use a base for the scents?
She's the Indian goddess of...
Oh nice. It’s got a nice feel to it when you put it on!
44
Very luxurious Smile
in aromatics at the time?
I like that! Smile So, your scents also come in other What did your mother use?
body products, could you tell us what other products
you have?
Reeked in a bad way? Lol?
Oh nice! Lots of great products.
That earlier comment about being drawn to gardens
reminds me of my first encounter with Kinmokusei, or
Conversations: JoAnne Bassett - Nov. 25
Japanese osmanthus! I kept walking by an area where
the most incredible scent lingered...I had to seek out
So, JoAnne, you and I met in cyberspace about a year and discover what it was...and this is a good point to
transition into my first experiences with your fraago...what prompted you to contact PerfumeCritic?
grances. Your fragrance, Camille, is the most intriguWell, I'm very glad you did! Today I'm wearing a little ing osmanthus scent I've yet to discover. I do love
bit of 4 of your scents. I have Napoleon and your nat- Ormonde Jayne's Osmanthus, but Camille is so different from anything else I've ever experienced.
ural Jasmine Sambac attar on one arm...
On the other arm I have Colette and Versailles. Simply Speaking of real flower absolutes, tell me about the
by the names of these creations, I can tell you are very jasmine attar you sent me. It's incredible!
interested in French culture and perfumery.
Is this something you created or imported?
I like the juniper top note in Napoleon - it's different
from what I'm used to with commercial juniper scents. Oh, my closest friend is in a constant search for the
perfect gardenia aroma...so far the best thing we've
So how did you get started in perfumery, JoAnne? found, and we both agree, is surprisingly, Yves
Rocher! I'd love to see, er, sniff what you've come up
Let's go back as early as possible!
with!
So you started in the 70's...but why? What got you
So, JoAnne...you have quite a selection of fragrances
started in aromatics?
on your website - are there a few that you hold closer
to your heart than others for specific reasons?
Perhaps in a past life?
Go back even further - what prompted you to do those Are you currently working on any new scents now?
things?
Wow! What fantastic news - any hints about what we
So we could say that in a sense, you've always been can expect?
drawn to aromatics in one form or another. Who's to
say if the events that led to you becoming a perfumer Do you think this is a movement that will be more than
were merely serendipity or simply part of your life's just a trend, going "green" with fragrances?
path.
Wow! That's quite a change from stockbroker to perfumer! Had anyone else in your family been interested
45
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Interesting. With the amount of fragrance I use, I often continued success.
find myself wondering just what exactly I'm spraying
on my skin (and inhaling)...
I just want to remind readers that you are offering
them 10% off their purchases at JoAnne Bassett when
And the results of those studies have shown?
they mention PerfumeCritic at checkout! Have a great
holiday JoAnne, and please keep us informed of your
So let's talk about Le Voyage for a moment - there new releases! Bye!
have been some very enthusiastic responses to our
November Voyage promotion. Where did the concept Interview with Roja Dove - Perfumer - Dec. 1
for this fragrance come from?
First, thank you for accepting to take our questions. I
And how did you decide upon the composition of Le might perhaps start with a question about the origins
Voyage?
of this perfume creation project. Because you have
been for so long in this industry, more than thirty
Le Voyage was one of my first "natural" perfumes. As years, it must have been quite a long time in the makI said, they are quite different from synthetic scents, ing. And also, was it initially your motivation for
and it's taken me a number of tries and a lot of patience entering the perfume industry, to pursue a career as a
to achieve an understanding, no, an acceptance that perfumer?
they too are valid and valuable forms of perfumery.
Gail Adrian and Ayala Moriel really helped me with The fragrances you refer to that are hidden in a drawthis journey, or should I say, voyage!?!
er, are these, the ones Clement referred to when he
spoke about the Roja Dove fragrances?
So onto the lightning round of questions!
So you want to keep the romance of perfume alive,
What was the first perfume you purchased for your- preserve a little bit more magic than is common these
self?
days?
What was the last perfume or scented product you pur- Mmm, I see a very intuitive rapport with people. This
chased for yourself?
gives rise to two questions for me. Do you yourself
really do creative fragrances or do you work with perWhat scented product would you most like to add to fumers?
your collection at this point in time?
So you are actually technically speaking, a “nose”,
Is there any scent (perfume or product) that you've and… all right, I see. And so it’s interesting to learn
been longing to buy or receive?
about the history of the Haute Parfumerie. It looks
wonderful, from the pictures.
Is there anything else you'd like readers to know about
you or your creations, JoAnne?
It looks like it’s a little dream nook that you have
thought of for, you know, people.
Well, then I'm happy one of our readers will get a
chance to explore the intimacy involved between you How lovely Moving on to the questions about the
and your creations! Thank you so much for taking the names for the perfumes, the new trio. They were very
time to chat with me today, JoAnne, and I wish you intriguing I thought, you know, punchy, a bit provoca46
tive why these names?
perfumes, gender-oriented perfumes?
I see, so there was a sort of common philosophy Yes, so that there is a little bit of room for personal
behind them, you wanted to promote a certain idea of inspiration
perfumery, and then you dedicated each perfume to a
different classic genre, apparently.
So then of course it’s always interesting to ask you if
you had some great classic references of perfumery
And so, logically, you are going to add more fra- when you created this recent trio of perfumes?
grances then, to cover more families? Oh, maybe?
It’s subtler?
Part II
Yes, there is this stereotype, absolutely, yes.
And so, logically, you are going to add more fragrances then, to cover more families? Oh, maybe?
PART III
The Secret.
I don’t know, some fragrances have succeeded thanks
to their sheer qualities so.
Yes, and on the other hand I was just thinking of this
point, the fact that Les Parfums de Rosine are often,
you know, quoted as an example of (early) bad marketing that could have gone right if it had been done
better but then I read this interesting remark by
Edmond Roudnitska who said that there were problems with the compositions of Les Parfums de Rosine.
So I don’t know precisely why, but it was interesting
to see that, you know, there is this dynamic between
the commercial and creative sides.
Certainly, there was this question raised by Octavian
Coifan who visits the blog and he is a perfume historian and he pointed out that there might be a problem
with the name “Scandal” because it referred to such a
classic.
Yes, I understand, I mean I understand. I mean I am
not going to say exactly what I think but I do think that
the chypres have a sophistication sometimes that orientals don’t have to them. They are more complicated
in a way than orientals and they also put a distance, a
social distance, with mmm, you know, potential suitors let’s say. Yet they have this sillage that is sometimes extraordinary and like a rope.
Oh yes, there is definitely one, absolutely.
Which ones are the good ones?
Oh yes, the base should do that.
It’s the last word.
And so I thought, I mean this is maybe a little bit
didactic but you made this rather strong comment to
Cosmetic News, that “five great vultures have killed
the industry….”
and I thought it would be interesting to hear you elabI haven’t seen it. I have seen it without the “e” pre- orate a bit on that position.
cisely and I verified that to see, you know, if there was
this detail missing or added and….
This is paradoxical when you say that marketers are
more in the forefront and perfumers have become
A different question now. Do you think there are mas- more like secondary personalities. At the same time
culine and feminine accords, masculine and feminine however, in the culture, I mean, in our perception of
47
Glen O. BRECHBILL
perfumers and perfumery, the perfumers have come to Tell us more about the launch of your first commercial
the fore more thanks to the media. So how do you fragrances.
explain this paradox, if there is one?
What inspired you to launch these?
Yes, absolutely, yes….I am trying to think of.
What have been the surprise successes of the Haute
Yes. Mmm, I mean this is a historic question and this Perfumerie?
is probably not really the place to address it, but it’s
true that the perfumers have come to the fore more in What trends do you predict/see for the future of the
the past few decades and it started before there were fragrance market?
blogs for example. So, you know it’s interesting.
What are your plans for the future in terms of fraAh, I remember right now an interview with Olivier grance?
Cresp in which he said himself that I can’t remember
now in which decade this started but that journalists How do you see the role of PR in a successful frastarted interviewing perfumers and that, that was new. grance launch?
This is a very interesting point and I'm sure it must How does the media playa role in this?
have been a contributing element.
Are there any journalists currently setting the agenda
There is also your work as a historian of fragrances.
for beauty at the moment?
PART IV
Do you see a strong link between fashion and fragrance?
There is also your work as a historian of fragrances
and we have heard about your attempts at resurrecting Whiff of Haute Couture - Frederic Malle - Dec. 23
a number of fragrances. Could we have a clearer
understanding of what you do? How do you convince In fashion, the mentor can see if the seams are poorly
people to put old perfumes back into production?
constructed, but how can you tell if a scent is on the
right track in the early stages?
The Editor Meets Roja Dove - Dec. 10
Are perfumers a temperamental lot? What are they
How has fragrance and the industry changed since you like to work with?
began working in it?
What is the ultimate goal in the lab?
How do you feel about the current celebrity fragrance
What makes Chanel No. 5 such a great fragrance?
phenomenon and is it a sustainable market?
What are the key directions in fragrance and what are How would you rate your own nose on a scale of 1 to
10?
the catalysts?
How has fragrance quality been affected by the race to
produce celebrity scents?
48
2008
What’s your favorite fragrance designed by someone
else?
In Praise of Synthetics - Jan. 9
The fragrance you wish you had designed?
As you see it, what are some of the unique benefits of
Your favorite author?
synthetics?
What would the fragrance industry look like if syn- Your bedside book?
thetic materials were lost?
Your favorite movie director?
What are some of your favorite synthetic materials to
Your cult film?
work with and why?
Can you please give - few examples of scents that What about music?
exploit synthetics particularly well?
Your favorite drink?
Can you please give a few examples of how synthetics
and naturals might be employed in tandem to construct The thing you hate most of all?
a winning fragrance?
The innate talent you’d most like to have?
Interview with Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Jan 12
Your motto?
What is your main character trait?
Jean-Pierre Bethouart, angel or devil?
What do you look for in men?
Interview with Annie Buzantian - Jan. 12
What do you look for in women?
Aside from yourself, who would you like to be?
are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characterisWhere would you like to live?
tics?
What was the first fragrance you wore?
Do you think that being a woman influences the way
you create and if so, in what way?
What is your favorite color?
Your favorite flower?
Your favorite smell?
How do you envision the future for fragrances? Do
Which is your favorite among the fragrances you’ve you have any hopes for the future?
designed?
49
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Interview with Jacques Cavallier - Jan 12
Interview with Oliver Cresp - Jan 12
The main trait of your personality?
The dominant feature of your character?
The most important quality in men?
The quality you most appreciate in other people?
The most important quality in women?
Besides yourself, who would you have liked to be?
Aside from yourself, who would you like to be?
Where would you like to live?
Where would you like to live?
The first fragrance you wore?
The first fragrance you wore?
Your favorite color?
Your favorite color?
The flower that you love?
Your favorite of the fragrances you’ve designed?
Your favorite fragrance of your own creation?
Your favorite fragrance designed by someone else?
Your favorite fragrance of someone else’s creation?
The fragrance you wish you had designed?
The fragrance you wish you had created?
Your bedside reading?
Your beside book?
Your favorite movie director?
Your favorite film director?
Your cult film?
Your cult film?
What you hate most of all?
What do you hate above all else?
An innate gift that you would like to have?
Cowardice
Your motto?
The gift of nature that you would like to have?
Spiritual or materialistic?
Your motto?
50
Interview with Isabelle Doyen - Jan 12
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fraHow can we recognize one of your fragrances? What grance brands?
are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characterisInterview with Etat Libre d’Orange Jan 12
tics?
Do you think that being a woman influences the way What are your influences as a designer?
you create… and if so, in what way?
are, in your opinion, their characteristic features?
How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do had created? And why?
you have any hopes for the future?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fragrance brands?
Interview with Elisabeth de Feydeau - Jan 12
When we talk about perfume nowadays, we almost Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena - Jan 12.
automatically evoke the notion of seduction. Is that
specific to our time, or has that been present in the his- How does being surrounded by greenery inspire you?
tory of perfume throughout the ages?
What’s your favorite “green” ingredient?
Can you tell us any historical anecdotes about that?
Is there a “green thread” connecting the different fraDo some perfumes incarnate the idea of seduction grances in the Jardins d’Hermès collection?
more than others for you?
Jean-Claude Ellena, what makes you turn “green with
How do you interpret this trend: is the phenomenon anger”?
linked to fashion, to nostalgia, to a desire to get back
to our roots or to consumers’ interest in perfume his- An intererview with Hervé Gambs - Jan 12.
tory?
We visited your new boutique on Paris’s Rive Gauche
What about you, is there a perfume that you would like last year. You have a strong presence in France, and
to be able to rediscover?
you’re highly admired in Japan, too. Where else can
we find your creations?
What other era would you have liked to live in, and
why?
In addition to floral design, you have a large catalogue
of home fragrances and candles. Do you see fragrance
Interview with Celine Elenna - Jan 12.
as part of a continuum of your desire to recreate the
plant world?
What are your influences as a designer?
51
Glen O. BRECHBILL
As part of your fragrance lines, you have designed Interview with Lalurice Rahme - Jan 12.
unusual scented objects, like the ‘Monolithe’ and the
collection ‘Une fleur, un parfum’. Why is that?
Laurice Rahme, you were born in France, but it’s New
York that your heart chose. Why?
While you used to make chic but relatively classic or
contemporary fragrances (orchid, cut grass, fig tree, What conduced you to create Bond N°9 ? The spirit of
etc.) you now seem determined to explore new territo- NYC, the challenge to put into scents an entire city, the
ry, like salty, crunchy green, cashmere and other wish to propose a new brand that got off the beaten
ranges.
path?
With their clean, pure lines, 100% plant-based wax
and 10% fragrance concentration, your candles have
been very successful with connoisseurs. Which fragrances are your favorites?
Another unusual thing you do is to present your plantinspired objets seasonally, like fashion, with a springsummer collection and a fall-winter one. What trends
can you recommend? What will “the best-dressed interiors be wearing” his winter?
Which neighborhood in New York was for you the
easiest, the most natural to transform into scent ? On
the opposite, which one seemed the most difficult, the
one that you may still wait to ‘perfume’ ? Could you
tell us about these places in a few words?
When you think about NYC, is there a typical smell or
raw material that evokes you the city ? And for other
American cities like Los Angeles or Miami, do you
also have precise olfactory ‘correspondences’?
To get back to fragrance, what are your favorite olfac- Besides, would it inspire you to put into bottle other
tory accords? What is your eau de toilette or fragrance cities, like L.A, Paris, London or Roma, today ? Or
brand of choice?
maybe more confidential cities or regions?
What about yourself, Hervé Gambs… have you been If you had created the fragrances Rive Gauche, 24
considering the possibility of designing fragrances for Faubourg or Champs Elysées (respectively Yves St
people rather than just for the home?
Laurent, Hermès and Guerlain), would you have ‘perfumed’ these places of Paris differently?
An Interview with Aurélien Guichard - Jan 12.
After the USA, you have decided to win Europeans’
hearts. You launch Bond N°9 in the UK, in France.
What are your ambitions on the Old Continent?
How do you think to seduce a clientele that may not
necessarily know NYC and the very particular mood
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you of its neigborhoods ? Are you going to have a more
hedonistic approach?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Your brand proposes 26 creations so far. Which Bond
grance brands?
N°9 fragrance resembles you most, Laurice Rahme?
What were the first perfumes that you wore? Do they
52
evoke you today accurate places?
Good point...And let's talk about the men's
scents...what was your inspiration? I mean, when
What fragrance by another perfumer do you prefer ?
crafting the actual aromas, what were your points of
reference? I have both on at the moment (Rebel
What fragrance would you have loved to create?
Ambush and Utopian) and both are fascinating in that
they seem to constantly be changing on my skin on
Conversations: Russell Newell - Jan 14.
moment I think I prefer Utopian, and then something
musky jumps out of Rebel and I think I prefer that
I’'ve been looking over your website and am wearing one...Actually, I think I meant that the other way
both samples you sent...how would you describe your round.
fragrances to our readers?
The lavender and myrtle are an interesting pairing and
add a slightly vegetal feel to the aroma...
and your fragrances are natural perfumes?
What made you decide to approach fragrance this You described it as "rising smoke" on the website, and
I can definitely get that note.
way?
And you are the sole perfumer of the SocialCreatures' I also have to note that neither scent is as "in-yourface" as mass-market fragrances - they stay close to
creations?
the skin.
How & Why did you decide on perfume?
At present, there are three scents available, two of
which I have tried...are there more scents in the
Tell me more about "the opportunity to train".
works?
And initially what attracted you to fragrance - I know
from reading your website that you are a photogra- Congrats, Russell - you definitely have a sense of
where you'd like this project to go!
pher, painter, writer...
I think that's a great idea, Russell. The bottles are obviously works of art, and the website explains the
process very well. I realize that natural essences, Orris
for example, are quite pricey due to 1) high quality, 2)
the difficulty to obtain such essences, and 3) the rarity
of the product. But in terms of selling a fragrance to
people who are looking at fragrance as a gift, or for
that matter, to those of us who know fragrance as an
obsession, the price is still quite high. I think a lower
price point, and even a smaller size (15ml?) might
make the scents even more approachable...? Then
again, if a luxury product is the intention, I think you
hit the nail on the head...What an incredible combination of artistry and perfumery!
We recently showcased a photographer's interpretation
of olfactory images...How did you select the photos
you use on the site?
The inclusion of the photos definitely helps create the
brand image.
And SocialCreatures is a family affair, isn't it?
M: Going back to you, Russell, I have some standard
questions that I like to ask perfumers - this is kind of
like the lightning round, answer with whatever comes
to mind first, ok?
What was the first fragrance you ever wore?
53
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Dunhill as in the original, yes?
might want to bring to the table in 2008?
I see - Dunhill Edition. What was the last fragrance Perfumer’s Interview - Jan 29.
you purchased for yourself?
What was your inspiration for the CK IN2U fraAnd what was the last fragrance you purchased as a grance?
gift for someone? Who was it bought for?
Please describe both CK IN2U fragrances?
What fragrance would you most like to add to your
collection?
Are there any unique ingredients that make the fragrances special or different?
Is there anything else you'd like readers to know about
you, the fragrances, or the company?
Are there any olfactive similarities between CK One
and CK IN2U?
Any plans for future collaborations, and will your fragrance be available in any shops outside Europe?
CK IN2U is positioned as a scent for the “technosexual” woman/man, how is that communicated in the fraWow! Way to go, Russell!
grance?
My pleasure, Russell. Thanks so much for giving us a How do the fragrances appeal to both women’s and
chance to get to know you and your creative process a men’s senses?
bit better. I wish you the best of luck, and please let me
know if there is any way we can help spread the word! How are the CK IN2U fragrances different from other
women and men’s fragrances?
Conversations: An Interview - Marian Bendeth - Jan 23.
How long did it take you to develop the fragrances,
So, after having worked in show business as a jazz and how many attempts?
music critic, what made you choose to focus your life
on fragrance? Is there an importance that goes beyond What are the current trends in women’s and men’s frajust nice smells in other words, is it personal to you grances and how does CK IN2U set a new trend?
and in what way?
What occasion will CK IN2U be worn for and how
Where do you see fragrance trends going today? will it make him/her feel?
Where would you like to see trends go?
Collaborations & the Golden Rule - Feb.
How does fragrance marketing affect our characterization of ourselves as women and men? Does marketing When Juicy Couture launched in 2006, how far out did
affect how we see our own personalities and sexuali- you look?
ties? Where do you see the marketing trend going and
where would you like to see it go?
Was there a sense of how the product would fit with
scent trends over a period of time?
How do you want your unique services to affect the
world in which we live--are there any awarenesses you How does a marketer consider both the current market
54
and tomorrow’s?
grances are driving growth in both Western Europe’s
and North America’s fine fragrance markets. Do you
Is the partnership role the supplier plays key to the agree?
long-term success of fragrances?
Can it be expected that premium fragrances continue
How do you consider what’s going on in the market, to be the key driver of these markets?
how you’re serving marketers today and how you’re
looking forward at the same time?
In “The Forgotten Fragrance Consumer” presentation,
it was stated that fine fragrances are competing in a
In a presentation called “The Forgotten Fragrance new beauty world where everything has a significant
Consumer,” Barbara Preyssas, global vice president, fragrance. Do you agree? How does this change how
Analysis Scent International, said that fine fragrances you brand, market and sell a scent?
are competing in a new beauty world where everything has a significant fragrance.
Does this actually provide other opportunities such as
more strength in fragrance brand extensions skin care,
Do you agree? Is there competition between fine fra- lotions, etc.?
grances and say, a personal care product?
Is there more of an advantage for fragrance brands in
Does that change how you approach the creation of a competition from scented products?
fine fragrance?
What is IFF’s assessment of the growth potential of
Is the experience that that fragrance represents or fos- fine fragrance, and what do you see for the market as
ters the ultimate goal of its creation?
a whole for both the short and long-term?
How important is the overall concept and appeal of the As those markets open up and perfumers experience
brand itself to the success of the fragrance?
those markets, do they explore more native raw materials for each of those markets or regions?
Does a strong initial brand connection make a bigger
impact for the release of a new fragrance or for that Conversations: Janna Sheehan - Feb. 10
fragrance’s longevity?
It's been a while since I've been so excited about a new
In the online gaming world Second Life, osMoz is a fragrance line! But actually, you're almost ready to celvirtual perfume island a location where your avatar ebrate your one-year anniversary, right?
[online character] can visit and fulfill your fragrance
fantasies created by Firmenich. It’s the first of its kind When did this entire project begin for you?
and is one example of current and growing marketing
strategies. What is the key to being both innovative And tell me about how this all got started! Spare no
and successful in marketing a fragrance?
detail!
Are there one or two golden rules that can be applied Ok, you know I gotta ask - what was the perfume you
across markets and segments?
had for 25 years?
Euromonitor International states that premium fra- Ahhh, interesting! And would I know this friend of
55
Glen O. BRECHBILL
yours?
First of all, I LOVE Thievery Corporation - have you
sent them the scent yet? And what a great story about
So if you had only ever worn one scent, why was fra- Whyte Rabitt, amazing how life and art intermingle
grance in your future?
(and aren't they really the same?)
Hence the "essential oil" perfumes?
It is incredibly unusual - I can smell the banana, but it's
not like what I would typically associate with banana:
The Trance Essence Eau de Parfum line is unusual, There's no synthetic, cloyingly sweet fruit note.
Janna - not quite mainstream perfume, not quite "natural perfumes". Would you say they are “mixed I have to know, is there any sandalwood in there? Or
media”?
am I just willing that note to be there?
Yes, I think that's so. And how many years was the line I was once told by a perfumer/professor acquaintance
"in the making"?
of mine that actually sweet pea has no real smell what creates this aroma in Hail Merri?
And you'd never had a go at creating scented products
before that?
So now what's this about "You Decide"? Tell me about
this new project?
Tell us a little more about you. For example, your
scent Hail Merri (one of my faves) was said to have So these personalities are the inspiration for the
been inspired by the Indiana woods - is that where you scents?
are from originally?
I do hope you're writing about it!!! Would make a fasWhen I first read that description for Hail Merri in cinating read.
your Exquisite Nectar oil sample pack, I was a little
surprised! The city I currently live in is "Indiana"...but Can you give me an example?
of course, I'm in PA. So considering the perfume biz is
somewhat new to you, tell us more about your back- Wow! I can see Edie making her own perfume!
ground.
When can we expect this line to launch?
Are you the designer of the Trance Essence packaging?
Tell me more! What will it smell like?
I can't wait! Let’s be sure to come back to that later in Hmmm. Anything lined up that will be slightly darker,
our conversation…Please keep us in mind when we're warmer than the current scents?
you're ready to launch! So back to Abbey Rose…
Before I forget, I wanna come back to your previous
I know you mentioned that Goldie Hawn bought that comment about HM - "I am so close to it I cannot wear
scent for her daughter, Kate Hudson, yes?
it!" What do you mean?
Where did all of these ideas for fragrance blends come Hmmm, but you did say that you're drawn to Abbey
from?
Rose?
56
I couldn't agree more, Janna. Well, we're getting to the How were they "in the field"?
end of our conversation, hopefully only the first of
many! Are you ready for the lightning round?
Does your mother still design fragrance?
Ok, here we go...Janna, are you a perfumer or an And your father?
artist?
Do you have siblings that are in the fragrance biz?
What's the last scented product you purchased?
So Raffy, what fragrance are you wearing right now?
What one fragrant note best represents you as you are
in this moment?
And it has a very unusual woody aroma, perhaps agarwood(?),
What was the first smell you remember falling in love
with?
What was your inspiration for these two scents?
What perfume note have you not worked with yet that I see, and how about Mogul?
you're longing to play with?
And that's Mogul, yes?
What would you most like our readers to know about
you and your artistry?
What prompted you, being a retailer of so many fragrances, to develop your own line? Was it inevitable Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique - Feb. 22
is it something you had always dreamed of?
Your own fragrances are the single notes scents?
How did you get started creating perfumes?
Tell me a little more about your new line of fraWere there other scents that served as a starting point
grances?
when designing American Gypsy?
Any advice you would give to aspiring entrepreneurs?
Is there almond present?
Who are your favorite designers?
So Raffy...How were the scents actually created - did
you do the blending "in-house" or did you work with
Conversations: Raffy - Feb. 26
an outside firm?
I've been following your online shop for quite some
years now. I think most people who purchase fra- I see. And are there plans to also create coordinating
bath and home accessories?
grance on-line know your name and shop.
Raffy, as I see it, you are playing out three different
roles - fragrance aficionado, businessman /entrepreWell, before we get into the new line, let's talk a bit neur, and perfumer/artist. How do these roles compete
more about you. Where are you originally from, or facilitate each other?
Raffy?
Do you have a favorite Crown?
Sounds great, at what point next year?
57
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Are there any other lines that you sell that we should started?
know about, perhaps disappearing or hard to find?
Where did the name Opus Oils come from?
So what lines will you be taking on in 2008? Are you
going to be carrying more niche lines?
Do you enjoy music?
Can you tell me anything about it? I'm often contacted Has the fragrance industry always been something you
by smaller companies looking for representation - wanted to work in?
should I be sending them your way?
Oh cute. You've worked as one of the developers for
How did you discover it?
The Apothecary at Barneys New York, and founded a
natural perfume line called Precious Petals...was this
Yeah - I think that's the downside, all the hand decant- before Opus Oils started?
ing...So about my previous question - I'm often contacted by smaller companies looking for representa- Your company is based in Hollywood, California does
tion - should I be sending them your way?
this give you inspiration for the scents you develop?
And that sounds like a smart business decision! Ok, so Do you get to spend a lot of time there?
Raffy, we're coming to the end of our chat (for now, at
least). I have a few standard questions, I call it “the Did you like my segue?
lightning round!” Ready?
For those who haven’t tried Opus Oils scents (or other
First scent you ever bought for yourself?
fragrances made of natural ingredients), what’s so
unique about trying oil-based fragrances, as opposed
Last scent you gave as a gift to someone, and who did to alcohol-based scents?
you give it to?
What’s involved in the development process of your
What scent would you most like to acquire?
scents? How long does it take to make a scent?
Is there anything else you'd like our readers to know Where did you get the idea to use those?
about you, the shop, or your fragrances?
You just said that the postcards inspired you to create
Well thank you so much for taking the time to chat the scents in the line...could you tell us about the 6 perwith me. I feel we've just gotten started - let's talk fumes?
again sometime soon, ok?
Next, Absinthe which is obviously based on what it’s
Conversations: Kedra Hart - March 2
named after. When I read the ingredients, and the
description of the collection on your site, I couldn’t
Time differences confuse me! LOL Anyway, are you help but think of Kylie Minogue’s character in Moulin
Rouge! Can you tell us a bit about the two scents in
ready to get started?
that range, and how you got the inspiration for them?
Ok...You’re the co-founder and ‘Master Blender’ (love
that title!) of Opus Oils. Can you tell us how Opus Oils Let's quickly go through the Divine collection, which
58
consists of 4 scents named after gods and goddesses. upcoming classes?
Can you tell us a bit about them?
Cery cool! Opus Oils has gotten a lot of publicity
Fetish is the next collection we’ll look at where did the through various fragrance blogs and publications, such
idea for this set of scents come from?
as Now Smell This and Scented Salamander, plus by
Russian and Chinese press. What do you think of the
Ok, the last of the collections is Island Girl – which attention that Opus Oils has attracted?
has 5 scents based on different islands around the
world. Have you visited all the places the scents are What are your favourite fragrance notes?
inspired by?
Do you have a favourite scent from Opus Oils?
Ok, so we've talked about Mantra, which is inspired by
Bali - what's in that, for all those who haven't tried it? What about a favourite fragrance from a company
And can you tell us about the other 4 scents as well, other than yours?
please?
Livia: Nice! And finally, what’s next for Opus Oils?
Livia: All the scents in all the above collections come Any new releases ahead, or are they top secret?
in various body products as well, like bath salts, body
butter, bath & body oil, and body lotion. Do these use Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers - March 14
natural ingredients as well?
How did the cooperation with Thorsten Biehl come
Ok, so we’ve talked about your collections – now, onto about?
the new scent. Roller Girl is Opus Oil’s latest release
– launched in May 2007. The tagline is “The Perfume How did your fragrances eo01, eo02 and eo03
That Packs A Punch” and it certainly does! It has an emerge?
attitude about it!! Could you please tell us about where
this scent came from?
How do biehl. parfumkunstwerke differ from ordinary
perfumes?
So, what does it smell like, for those who haven't tried
it yet?
Does this freedom make it harder or simpler to compose a fragrance?
All of your fragrances are available directly from your
website, which is - can our overseas readers purchase How does it function at all, the composition of a perscents from you?
fume?
Fantastic!! Now, not only do you make all these gor- How long did it take you to create your biehl.pargeous fragrances, but you also make custom scents for fumkunstwerke?
boutiques and salons. What goes into making a custom
scent?
How did cooperation with other perfumers look?
You also teach perfume classes both in California and Is being a perfumer your dream job?
in Paris. How long have you been doing this? What
topics do you cover? And where can we find out about
59
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle - April
Why do you think so many women and men are part
of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and
We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve natural trend?
mentioned your love of perfume dates from childhood.
An Interview with Ulrich Lang - April 14
What’s your favorite scent memory?
How did you go about opening your business and what As many readers will relate, fragrance often becomes
do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncer- part of one's life at an early age. What were the early
tain times?
reference points for the perfumer?
What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of To Smell & Back - Chandler Burr - April 17
running your business?
Why do celebs want fragrances?
What advice would you give to anyone contemplating
becoming a perfumer?
Do you think the perfume world will ever become less
secretive?
I love the three fragrances in your line: Notes Fraîches,
Fleurs Blanches, and Épices Orientale. They are very Will we get to a place where we don't need any more
different from one another, which gives your cus- perfume?
tomers a nice variety to choose from. Can you give me
an idea of your creative process? Do you start with a Have any recently released fragrances surprised you?
concept or fragrance note in mind?
Are there any perfumes debuting soon you're looking
What’s up next? Do you have a new fragrance in the forward to?
works?
Do you think other celebs will follow Parker's examWhen someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance, ple?
how do you go about creating it for your client? How
do you decide about the notes, how long does the Conversations with Ulrich Lang - April 21
process take, and what’s the price range?
Nice to meet you too. Well fist of all I must confess I
Interview with - Laurie Stern - April 12
know very little about you and so I tried to find some
info about you on the web. But I wanted to get to know
Can you tell us briefly about yourself and your per- you myself, it’s far warmer and personal, so I will
fumery?
begin by asking about your background and how your
experience influenced you and led you into perfumes.
What was your favorite fragrance growing up?
Ok, Uli, now let’s talk a bit more about your scents.
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever How did Anvers begin?
smelled?
So have you been directly involved in the concoction
What power do fragrances have power over people, do of the scent?
you think, if any?
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Usually talking about scents is not easy, scents are
perceived from every person in a different way; moreover you cannot see or touch or ear them… you can
just try to describe with sinaestesie what you perceive.
So I guess it’s been hard to let noses understand what
you wanted exactly.
Oh really? And how did you do it?
spectrum of perfume, from aromatherapeutic products,
to natural perfumes, to the classically styled fragrances, and even the off the shelf drugstore brands,
PerfumeCritic can bring the beauty and social significance of fragrance use and olfaction to the public. So
let's get to know more about you - how did you get
started in perfumery? Just how young were you when
struck with the realization that scent is fascinating?
What about your second fragrance, Anvers 2?
Hmm, well, we'll come back to the mainstream in just
a bit...That reminds me...My piano teacher (when I
What about the packaging of your fragrances?
was 12) lent me her entire set of essential and perfume
oils for a few months - she had no idea she was creatWell, we have talked about your past, your present, ing a monster! Do you still wear Chanel #5?
and now what about your future?
Part II
Conversations with Anya McCoy - May 10
I think there are some perfumers who are just inspired
First of all it's a pleasure to chat with you!
and can effectively create entire wardrobes of fragrance in a short time - perhaps the ideas have been
I know a little bit about you, Anya, from reading your percolating?
website and our few email exchanges, but where are
you from originally?
Ok, so back to you...you were obsessed with scent
when you were a child - when did you create your first
And how did you get into academia?
perfume?
Yes! Orange juice! I just noticed that in the list of notes
from your website, but it didn't register to my
nose...now that you've pointed it out, I can get a citrus
rind note slowly fading as the warmth of the middle
notes is emerging. Another reason I find Temple so
special is that you have dedicated it to a specific group
of people. Would you like to talk more about that?
So, back to you - first scent created?
I see - what was the deciding factor that brought you
to the creation of your first perfume, though? What
made you decide "yeah, I'll make one on my own?"
Can anyone be a perfumer, Anya?
So Temple is a scent for spiritual healing and medita- Anya, how has your history and background inflution?
enced your perfumery?
Interesting I don't think the average consumer truly When am I coming over?
understand the distinctions among various styles of
fragrance. Is that part of your mission as an artist/per- So Anya, your own perfumery, teaching, the Guild,
fumer?
philanthropy...what does the future hold for Anya's
Garden?
Completely! I am hoping that by addressing the entire
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Ok, are you ready for the lightning round?
names of your scents affecting the customer’s view of
themselves?
Lol here we go! What's the last fragrance you purchased for yourself?
Are there any particular notes or blends in your coffret
that excite you the most? Why?
What's the first fragrance you ever wore?
For you, is fragrance a force of habit? A lifestyle
What's the last scent you purchased for someone else? choice? A reflection of one’s imagination or self
Who was it for?
esteem? Or a revelation of one’s apparent taste and
good breeding?
What fragrance would you most like to have in your
possession?
Which vintage fragrance in your opinion should last
for an eternity and always be maintained as an original
There's no retail fragrance you've been curious about formulation with the original materials?
or wanting for your own?
What has surprised you the most since the launch of
Anya, is there anything else you'd like readers to know By Kilian fragrances? Is there a anecdote that you can
about you or your creations?
share?
Il Fragrance Delecto - May 22
If your fragrances are an extension of something
innate within your psyche, what exactly would that
There is an obvious black and white theme to femi- be? And what direction do you see it traveling to for
ninity, masculinity, romance and sexuality to your the future?
scents. Does an ingenue theme denote naivety or the
ultimate artisan’s muse for you? Or Straight to Heaven If you could compare your scents and flacons to a parwith White Cristal, is that your interpretation of the ticular Artist, who would that be?
dark side of humanity? Are these names and subtitles
(and oh Kilian, why the subtitles?) autobiographical? An Interview with Olivia Giacobetti - May 26
When you left the corporate world of fragrance, what What was your encounter with Andrée Putmann like?
differences were you absolutely resolute and bent on
making and were foremost in your mind when devel- What guidelines did you have for the creation of the
oping the By Kilian scents?
fragrance?
Can you explain the correlation between the written Is the creative approach for a brand such as Hermes
word or music such as hard-core hip hop lyrics in different from creating for a personality like Andrée
imagery and your style of blends?
Putmann?
Would you call yourself an aesthete? A precisionist? If Does the notion of unisex fragrance mean anything to
so, how have these traits invaded and assisted your you?
choices with your new company?
Do you think this applies to perfumery too?
Who is your customer? How do you see the blends and
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Jean Claude Elenna - Q & A - May 28
ed for you, Henri Alméras?
How long did you spend in Kerala researching?
If you could team up together in that time period, who
would you like to co-create a fragrance for?
What were your first impressions?
Were these impressions included in the perfume?
If you could bring anything back with you, what
would that be?
Were there any elements you were unsure of?
Conversations: Liz Zorn - June 25
How would you describe your working process when What brought you to the art/craft/science of percreating a perfume?
fumery?
Describe a typical day of yours.
What do you enjoy most about creating perfumes?
What do you try to achieve in a perfume?
I won’t ask you to choose amongst your own perfumes, but what would you list as your top 5 favorite
perfumes? Or perhaps the perfumers / perfume houses
that most influenced you?
What is your favourite part of creating perfume?
Do you think you have a signature?
What are your top favorite notes?
If you had to choose, which is your favourite creation?
SOIVOHLE’ – what does this mean to you?
Which fragrances, from other perfumers, do you
admire?
What are the most difficult scents/fragrances/notes to
create? Have you had one (or more) perfume that took
Scent Treks Through Time - 2008
ages to perfect but ultimately worked?
If it was possible to travel back in time to any particu- How long does it normally take you, from the idea all
lar century and decade of your choice to meet your the way through to a finished perfume?
number one inspirational Perfumer:
Can you explain to our readers, (in lay person’s terms)
how you go about creating a perfume? Approximately
When would that be?
how many different ingredients are needed? How
many “tries/tweaks” does it take?
Who would that be?
What specific questions would you want to learn from Is there a trend in perfumery that you’re excited
about?
them?
I wouldn’t have any questions, but the wish to live a Is there a trend in perfumery that disappoints you?
week with him, in his fantasy, share his carefree life,
his parties. Well finally I would ask him one question: Have you read Perfume: The Guide by Luca Turin and
How did you collaborate with the perfumer who creat- Tania Sanchez? What did you think?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Conversations: George Wuchsa - July 19
So first, it's great to meet you George!
So, George, in what other places in the world do you
discover new lines? Any great stories you'd like to
share?
I remember first ordering from you back in 2003,
Villoresi Yerbamate and L'Artisan Jour de Fete, and
the package was amazing! It was like a celebration
with confetti and feathers...I really liked the idea of
opening a package that felt like a party. But your business has actually been around for quite some time,
how did you decide to focus on niche fragrances?
Where's the most unusual place you discovered a fragrance line that you now carry?
Yes, I remember hearing about you on MakeupAlley everyone was going nuts about all of the European
hard-to-find fragrances. I used to get Villoresi samples
with silver stickers on them that read "Wuchsa" and I
used to wonder what that was! Of course, now I know
that Wuchsa is YOU!
Wow! What was the most recent fragrance you fell in
love with?
Have you had many offers to produce a fragrance line
for the shop?
Do you remember your very first fragrance?
I’ll have to add that to my First-in-Fragrance sample
wishlist. So is there anything else you’d like to share
with readers, George?
So you are as much a "perfummaniac" as many of your How does shipping from Germany to the US work
nowadays? Is it expensive?
customers?
I know the feeling. Will you tell us what some of your That sounds like a great idea, George. What other new
lines can we expect to see at First-In-Fragrance in the
first scents were?
future?
George, have you had holy grail moments, where you
find something and you think "this is it...this is what Lol! Any lines you'd like to take on that you haven't
I've been..." and then you realize that there are still a approached yet?
ridiculous number of aromas left to be experienced
The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - July 26
and you wonder if you'll ever find it?
What are a few of the lines you've most recently taken Are there scents which have been impossible to reproon?
duce?
"Septimanie Perfumes, an independent luxury perfume house founded by a garden designer, is launching a sensuous white floral fragrance, Pavillon des
Fleurs, inspired by the ethereal scent of a nocturnal
garden. Underpinned with jasmine absolute and ylang,
notes of orange blossom, lily of the valley, English
leather and iris, and a barely suppressed hint of
cloves..." How did you find this line?
An Interview with - Bertrand Duchaufour - July 30
Mr. Duchaufour, you have created some of the most
memorable fragrances of the past decade, including
Timbuktu and Dzongkha of or L'Artisan Parfumeur.
Are you going to collaborating with the Company's as
its sole perfumer going forward? Will you be doing
other projects as well?
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What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan creation Fleur de Liane? What was the vision for this
feminine scent and and please share some highlights
of your personal journey. Please tell us from start to
finish.
An Interview with Perfumer - Thierry Wasser - Aug.11
Hello Thierry, and thank you for taking the time to talk
to me and Congratulations on your new appointment!
What an incredible honour! I am curious to know how
your first few months working with Guerlain have
L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and been? Has it been very different from your years
not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some working at a Fragrance & Flavour Houses like
of the regulations on raw materials effect how you cre- Givaudan and Firmenich?
ate a fragrance?
Do you find you have more time for creation now?
You told us you are devoted to the female world, yet
most of your fragrances are non gender specific, Since you will be doing so much, what is your official
please explain?
title now?
Who is the woman you created Fleur de Liane for?
You are now working with the Creative Director,
Sylvaine Delacourte who has directed and overseen so
What is she like?
many fragrances for the House. How long does it take
to develop a sympatico with someone who you work
Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you together with?
had created?
What is like to be in the company of Jean-Paul
Why is their a lack of great masculines in the contem- Guerlain?
porary market?
I recently smelled your new Guerlain Homme it is just
How do you feel about the state of contemporary superb! You collaborated with Sylvaine Delacourte on
'commercial' fragrance? Will the rise of niche and bou- this but Did M. Guerlain work on this with you as
tique fragrance force change to the landscape?
well?
What do you think of the internet bloggers and the role Speaking of men’s scents, would you say the Guerlain
of the "perfume critic" who do not declare their sub- customer of 1965 who wore Habit Rouge is the same
jectivity?
customer of today who could also wear Guerlain
Homme or has the customer changed in your opinion?
In what way do the same people help educate and
champion fine fragrance?
Speaking of classic Guerlain fragrances, which scent
do you wish you had personally made for the House?
What advice would you give new perfumers in terms
of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially In terms of development and creation, which side of
if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a com- the House do you get a kick out of? The more commercial hit?
mercial side? Vintage? Fragrances Exclusives or
Bespoke?
Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with,
that you have not been able to create?
You have already created beautiful and very elegant
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
fragrances for the House such as Iris Ganache and from there?
Quand Vient La Pluie for the La Maison Fragrances
Exclusives Divisions, very different styles from the What’s your favourite note to work with?
more commercial appeal for the global market. How
do you intend to approach this wider sector?
Do you have a favourite fragrance from a company
other than your own?
Do you find that you should research absolutely everything about the House before you entered the position? What was the last scent you bought for yourself, or
Or do you feel your creativity will add a new freshness were given as a gift?
and you will learn along the way?
What can we expect from Michael Storer Fragrances
Was there any particular Guerlain feminine scents?
in the future?
What legacy do want to contribute to the house?
Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer - Aug 23
Conversations - Michael Storer - Aug. 17
Can you tell us a little bit about how you came to be a
Perfumer?
Could you please tell us a bit about "the man behind
the scents", including how you got started with fra- What aspects of the field are people unaware of?
grance?
How long does it take to develop a perfume?
Now, your tagline for your scents is "niche fragrances
designed for the individualist". Can you explain this How great a role do cultural changes play in the popidea to us?
ularity or prevalence of particular scents? How does
this dynamic inform your creations?
Ok, back to your unisex fragrances - which of the three
was the first to be developed? What was the inspira- Interviewing Romano Ricci - Perfumer - Aug. 25
tion for the scent? What notes does it contain, and how
to they convey the image you were looking to create What are your influences as a designer?
for the fragrance?
Who could ever ask for a more surprising and perfect are, in your opinion, their characteristic features?
compliment?
Well, I guess it’s time for you to tell us about these had created? And why?
three scents?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fraI know this almost sounds cruel Smile but do you have grance brands?
a favourite fragrance out of the six? Or maybe one that
you find yourself wearing the most?
At the moment, your fragrances are available at your
website. Can our International readers purchase them
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Conversations - Neil Morris - Aug. 28
Tell us, is there a trend in perfumery that you're excited about?
This is my typical first question, what brought you to
That’s a fascinating point about the comparison
the art/craft/science of perfumery?
between perfume and wine. I've noticed some perWhat is it that you enjoy most about creating perfume houses creating 'harvest editions' or 'limited editions' based on an especially good crop of mimosa in
fumes?
India (or insert any ingredient here) that year. This has
Is there anything you dislike about creating perfumes? always made me think of wine and a good vs. bad year
for the grape harvest. Given your expertise, are the
Harvest Editions truly superior/unique or a marketing
Is there a part that is tedious?
ploy?
I won't ask you to choose amongst your own perfumes,
but what would you list as your favorite 3-5 perfumes? Onto a different topic…Do you read reviews by
Or perhaps the perfumers / perfume houses that most Chandler Burr, Luca Turin, Tania Sanchez and the perfume bloggers?
influenced you?
Now, let’s talk about the niche & indie perfumers. What do you think of this relatively new phenomenon
Which of this category, aside from yourself Wink, do of perfume reviewers?
you think is creating some beautiful perfumes?
Is there a trend in perfumery that disappoints you?
So, this is something I’ve wanted to ask you, what's
your take on the distinction between fragrances for So what's new for Neil Morris? Do you have some
men and fragrances for women? Do you like to wear fragrances in the works that you'd like to tell us about?
floral or not stereotypically masculine colognes yourAn Interview with - François Demachy - Sept. 19
self?
Let’s see… for you…what have been the most difficult How do you feel about being a Dior “nose”?
scents/fragrances/notes to create?
What are the main characteristics of Dior perHave you had one or more perfumes that took ages to fumes...what makes them unique?
perfect but ultimately worked?
Have you ever persisted in implementing your own
How long does it normally take you, from the idea all ideas at Dior…for a perfume you felt you absolutely
the way through to a finished perfume?
had to create?
Can you explain to our readers, (in lay person's terms) How do you (and the House) feel about the use of nathow you go about creating a perfume?
ural vs. synthetic ingredients - is there a difference in
quality?
Approximately how many different ingredients are
needed?
A primary ingredient he hasn’t yet mastered?
How many "tries/tweaks" does it take?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
And what is the phase of perfume design you like Interview Chanel Nose - Jacques Polge - Sept. 28
best?
I believe that it takes a very sensitive, particular perAre perfumers “the elite” of the beauty business?
son to create such exquisite fragrances. So, who is
Jacques Polge?
Having created many perfumes, and major ones at
that, is there a fragrance you still dream of capturing? Where did you grow up?
For a creator, what is a “provocative” fragrance?
Did your early-childhood surroundings contribute in
any way to your becoming one of the great noses of
Should there be harmony between a fragrance and its our century?
bottle?
What are Beige’s notes?
Do you have any advice about how to apply perfume
and how best to store it?
Was it created in the usual way, from top to bottom?
Which notes do you see as a major trend in 2009?
What emotions do you hope this scent will trigger?
And the perfume of tomorrow?
Did Mademoiselle Chanel have inspirational words
that you drew from when creating a scent for this
extremely versatile color?
Among perfumers, who are your role models?
Which perfumes to you consider “key fragrances”?
What are the characteristics of women who would
wear Beige?
What do you think about that?
Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury - Oct. 17
Do you miss Grasse and your years of training and
apprenticeship?
What came next?
A perfume you would have loved to create?
And, then you were promoted?
Your most beautiful fragrance experience?
What does a fragrance evaluator do?
Do you sometimes wonder if your work takes more What kinds of things did you work on at Norda?
out of you than it puts back in?
How did you make the move to Estée Lauder?
Advice to young, would-be perfumers?
Should the opening be larger or smaller?
From a philosophical point of view we asked, “nose,
perfume creator, composer” - how would Demacy What was the meeting like?
describe himself?
What did you learn from Estée Lauder?
And, on a final note, what’s your favorite smell?
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What are you working on now?
Tell me what you love about fragrances, why is it
important to all of us?
Do you have any career advice?
Thierry Wasser - Questions - Nov. 2008
What are your favorite smells and which ones do you
dislike?
How does it feel to be the ‘nose’ of such a fabled What power do perfumes have power over people, do
house of perfume and to inherit the mantle from Jean you think, if any?
Paul?
What is it about the fragrance industry that you find
most disappointing?
When was this fragrance launched?
How do you visualize and conceptualize a perfume?
I absolutely love “your look” on your marketing and
PR materials, it is quite stunning. How did you come
up with this imagery?
You say it takes two to make a scent.
How did that come about?
In your profession what thrills you the most?
In any of your future fragrances will you have an How are you this morning?
Arabic touch?
How are you?
Which is Guerlain’s main market for scents?
When did this entire project begin for you?
Which is your personal favourite?
Hence the "essential oil" perfumes?
What is the secret of Guerlain’s success?
And how many years was the line "in the making"?
Intrviewing - Janna Sheehan - Nov. 6
And you'd never had a go at creating scented products
Could you please tell us a bit about your background before that?
leading up to your career in perfumery?
Janna - tell us a little more about you. For example,
your scent Hail Merri (one of my faves) was said to
What inspired you to start a fragrance line?
have been inspired by the Indiana woods - is that
What differentiates your fragrance from other fra- where you are from originally?
grance lines in the niche market and makes them speAre you the designer of the Trance Essence packagcial?
ing?
What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or
products in the Trance Essence line and what about I know you mentioned that Goldie Hawn bought that
them do you think makes them register to so many scent for her daughter, Kate Hudson, yes?
people?
Where did all of these ideas for fragrance blends come
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Glen O. Brechbill
from?
Perfumers - Jean Paul & Thierry Wasser - Dec 10
First of all, I Love Thievery Corporation - have you
sent them the scent yet? And what a great story about
Whyte Rabitt, amazing how life and art intermingle
(and aren't they really the same?)
Monsieur Guerlain, there was talk back in 1999 of you
passing on the mantle of in-house perfumer at
Guerlain, but it didn’t happen. What makes it right
now, with Thierry?
So these personalities are the inspiration for the What part did you play in the appointment of Thierry?
scents?
But you were always going to go back to work for the
Can you give me an example?
family firm, weren’t you?
When can we expect this line to launch?
So when did you two first meet?
Oh really?
You had already been hired at this point, Thierry?
Tell me more! What will it smell like?
So do you feel like you are going through a process
together?
Anything lined up that will be slightly darker, warmer
than the current scents?
This sourcing part of the job is new to you isn’t it?
I couldn't agree more, Janna. Well, we're getting to the Is it a dying art to see the fragrance development
end of our conversation, hopefully only the first of through from the sourcing of materials to the creation
many! Are you ready for the lightning round?
of the juice?
Ok, here we go...Janna, are you a perfumer or an So you are obviously learning quite a lot, Thierry, even
artist?
though you have practised perfumery already for
sometime?
What's the last scented product you purchased?
You obviously get on well. Do you think it is working
What one fragrant note best represents you as you are because of your personalities?
in this moment?
So that’s what you have to pass on this passion?
What was the first smell you remember falling in love
with?
Thierry, you are learning about the sourcing side of the
business, but what have you learnt in terms of perWhat perfume note have you not worked with yet that fumery from M Guerlain. You’ve talked about the
you're longing to play with?
‘Guerlinade’, the Guerlain signature, have you
cracked the code?
What would you most like our readers to know about
you and your artistry?
And these are things that are new to you?
In a way Guerlain mentored you before even met M
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Guerlain?
Which designers do you cooperate with and what
would you like your customer to feel in your bouSo, M Guerlain, your grandfather was your mentor. tique?
How did he pass things on to you?
How much do you follow your contemporaries? In
That formula is not touched now?
your opinion, can your fragrances be referred to as
modern?
I know, M Guerlain, that you put a lot of emphasis on
literature and music they are very important to you?
How does Christmas smell for you and what did
Ormonde Jayne prepare for their customers for holiHow have they influenced your work?
days?
Are you looking to poetry and music and literature for Your favorite destinations?
your inspiration, Thierry?
Your favorite scents of nature?
How will the next big perfume evolve collaboratvely?
Favourite scent of nature is Belle de Nuit (not availThierry, What would you like to pass on?
able in a natural oil sadly - one day maybe?)
Do you appreciate that you are inspiring another gen- Which are your favorite fragrances by other designeration, M Guerlain?
ers?
Do you feel like you are teaching, M Guerlain, or is it Do you have a need to take a rest from all scents from
a very natural process.
time to time?
Interview with Linda Pilkington - Dec. 14
Do you wear your own perfumes (which one is your
favorite)?
First of all, we would like to find out more about your
latest perfume for men, Zizan. Where did you find Do your loved ones share your passion for fragrances?
inspiration for it?
Interviewing Mandy Aftel - Dec. 23
Your first fragrance, Ormonde Woman, is based on a
rare and unusual ingredient Black Hemlock. How did Is perfume just about smelling good?
you discover it for yourself?
What differences should a fragrance enthusiast accusWhat, besides flower, do you try to reflect in a com- tomed to mainstream perfumes (i.e. not natural) expect
position and how important is it for you to reflect the when they encounter natural perfumes for the first
natural scent of a flower?
time?
Could you tell us more on design of your bottles, Do you think the layering of notes is more distinct
packages, boutiques, since everything seems very with natural perfumes than with synthetic ones?
impressive?
You give your perfumes no gender classifications.
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
What is your opinion of gender classification in per- well for you?
fumery? Are all perfumes unisex?
In your Perfume Prive, I smell deep inedible animalic
Is natural perfumery in the developed world counter accords which give it a very solid quality. Can you tell
culture or a luxury niche for the wealthy elite?
me about that one?
Is natural perfumery necessarily Esoteric?
Is it real Ambergris?
I’m thinking of the association with alchemy you
make in your book and also that it seems to be often
tied up with mysticism or different ways of looking at
the world which are outside the conventional norm.
If alchemy and natural perfumery have a relationship
(as you describe in your book) and modern chemistry
and synthetic based perfumes have relationship, what
is the difference in those two relationships?
Are you interested in mainstream perfumery, including
the so-called niche perfumes?
2009
Interview - Dawn Hurwitz - Jan. 2009
If so what are your thoughts on the current state of
play?
Dawn, you are an Aromatherapist and a Perfumer,
which came first and did the aromatherapy training
Does it give more depth?
help in any way with becoming a perfumer?
Is there a connection between natural perfumery and You were also an artist (painter) before you became
aromatherapy?
perfumer, tell us about this please... and do you still
paint?
Is this a good thing or a bad thing?
What differentiates your fragrances from other niche
Most perfumery materials are processed in some way fragrance lines?
or another. Where do you draw the line between natural and non-natural?
Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created, you have
so many...
So is it the source material which is important?
Your newest collection is Limited Editions by Parfums
Can you describe in general terms how you go about des Beaux Arts, please tell us about them.
composing?
I am very fascinated by the Les Rouges Collection:
So you find an essence or a note which you like... and “PASSION, POWER, LUST, RAGE, ECSTASY...
then what happens next?
such are our associations with RED; our wildest emotions and greatest HEAT are bound to this primal
So is it then about decorating that pairing?
color. Inspired by the radiance and intensity of RED
my Les Rouges Collection enters Perfection
I notice that quite a few of your perfumes contain a Connoisseur Fragrances label” Tell us about these.
Blood Orange note, something I have not often come
across elsewhere. What is about this which works so As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?
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There must have been a defining moment that led you Has this process been one of spiritual growth for you,
to become a perfumer. How did that happen?
along with the development of a commercial product?
Were you inspired by any one perfumer?
In your newsletter, each Tarot card had a message, as
well as the ingredients in that specific perfume.
Through what process did the messages and ingredients come to you?
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever
smelled?
What message would you like our readers to take
away regarding the Arcana Fragrance line?
You also recently opened your new boutique; the
Essence Studio in beautiful Boulder, Colorado, how is Interview with perfuemr Rodrigo Roux - Jan. 3
that?
Thank you for joining us, Rodrigo. To learn more
Is there anything else you would like our readers to about who you are today, tell us about your childknow about you or your perfumes that we have not hood?
discussed?
What are your most pervasive olfactive memories:
Interview with Gail Adrian - January
What was your mother’s scent?
Gail, I want to thank you for taking the time to do this
interview.
When did you decide to become a perfumer?
Before we get into the area of fragrance, let's talk Where did you study?
about the role of Tarot in your life. How did you come
to work with the Tarot, and what place does it hold in Did you have a mentor?
your life?
What was your first fragrance as a nose?
The long or short version?
What raw materials do you enjoy working with?
What do you hope to accomplish through your work
with fragrance?
What raw materials do you find the most challenging?
How did you become interested in developing a line Rodrigo, there were over 600 fragrances launched last
based on the tool of Tarot?
year thoughts?
What was the reasoning behind including the Minor There is much debate on the term ‘niche perfume’.
Arcana and Court Cards in this line (along with the What does it mean to you? Does it have any meaning?
powerful Major Arcana archetypes)?
You have created Every scent for the designer John
How do you choose which cards you will be working Varvatos. Please tell us about how your met and your
with - or do they choose themselves?
relationship.
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
You have what I call a ‘dubious honor’; you are the What fragrance and perfumer influenced you the
only Latin American perfumer who studied fine fra- most?
grance through the industry and is not self taught. How
do you feel about that?
What is the fragrant thread that connects all your
scents, no matter the price or the materials used?
Now about you what music do you like to listen to?
Favorite fine artists, how do they influence you?
What was your last dream?
When you need to escape where do you go?
Please name your favorite Latino artists.
What are your favorite hot spots in NY and Paris?
If you were not a perfumer, what would you be doing?
What’s your favorite adult beverage? Tequila and soda
What are the most brilliant perfume(s) you have or vodka soda with lime?
smelled?
Your favorite music?
Thoughts on the influence on blogging and perfumery?
Do you have any phoebias?
Ok, the hot button of the decade ( IFRA ).
If you could bottle a sight, a sound, a taste or an
abstract idea, what would it be?
A sneak ‘sniff’ on what you are working on.
Is the ‘nose’ now more important than the brand?
Interview with Perfumer - Yann Vasnier - Jan. 3
What distinguishes your ’scentsibilities’ from your
Where did you grow up? Can you share with our read- colleagues?
ers some stories from your childhood, and what you
Many perfumistos wring their hands at change, i.e. the
were like as a kid?
discontinuation or reformulation of a vintage scent due
to regulations or other factors. Do you think one
Talk about your decision to become a perfumer?
should disclose these changes?
What are the challenges of two or more great noses ‘in
How are you bridging 20th century perfumery with
the kitchen’ so to speak?
21st century technology?
You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-roux and
most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are I am still looking into developments in new naturals
the challenges of two or more great noses in the and new synthetic materials?
kitchen so to speak?
Raw materials vs. synthetics. Which are the most chalWhat was it like to work with Kimora Lee Simmons lenging to work with why?
who created Baby Phat?
Your proudest moment as a perfumer?
Naturals are really challenging, for safety reason, for
74
stability in color, in odor, their quality, their price
What do you think has to be done to further reinforce
the idea of perfumery as art?
Is the Art of perfumery, evolving or dying?
What is your feeling about marketing fragrances to
men and to women, or do you believe that most fragrances can be shared. For example our reviewer Mark
Behnke, a strapping married man is so confident in his
masculinity he wears Feminite du Bois and your
Mythique?
Serge Lutens Interview - Jan. 5
On the topic of commercial perfumery, what do you
think is the greatest tragedy or problem that afflicts it?
What scents trigger your childhood memories?
If you were to create something special (a perfume, a
photograph) for a person from history (your favourite
artist, poet, author or anyone else) alive or deceased,
who would it be?
In one of your interviews, you said, Morocco gave me Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault - Jan 25.
the taste of perfume.” Can you please tell me more
about your first experience there and what moved and The traditional perfumery with ethnographic referinspired you about Morocco so much?
ences is almost an unexplored land for our contemporary "nose". How would you describe your olfactive
What are some of the olfactive memories that are experiences during the creation of Manoumalia?
indelibly linked for you with Morocco?
How traditional perfumery and ethnographic experiWhat, on the other hand, is the most challenging?
ences can enrich in terms of composition or technique
(manufacture) the modern perfumery?
Do you already have a story in mind when embarking
on creating your next scent?
What are for you the "fragrant fingerprints" of New
Caledonia?
Or does it develop organically throughout the whole
process?
What is the relation between fragrance and man in the
culture that inspired you?
I recently saw photos of your beautiful garden in
Morocco that were published in the Shiseido brochure How do they wear a scent?
for Japan. Does it often provide you with inspiration?
What is the relation between fragrance and the sacred
If one would take a walk through your garden today, / profane world, are there any favorite scents or even
what would one smell?
forbidden scents?
Given your background as an artist and photographer, For somebody that has never smelled "fagraea
how do you conceive of a synergy between perfume flower", what would be the closest description?
and other fine arts?
You speak in Manoumalia fragrance about a sincere
When you think of smells, how do you visualize them and profound olfactive culture that has inspired you. If
as colours, shapes, sounds etc?
somebody lives in a big city like Paris or New York,
how this culture can inspire and enrich?
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Glen O. Brechbill
Are there any raw materials that inspire you right now, What led you to perfumery, especially natural perthat intrigue you or even resist you?
fumery?
What are the most beautiful memories you keep from What about all those other perfumes in the ether that
the meeting with Edmond Roudnitska, your master are crying out to be manifested onto the planet?
perfumer?
What is the oddest ingredient that you have used in
Interview with Perfumer - Cécile Krakower - Jan. 27
perfumery?
As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?
Do you believe in fairy tales?
But is it really possible for a blonde heiress to trans- There must have been a defining moment that led you
form her perfume into a success with the simple wave to become a perfumer. How did that happen?
of her magic wand?
How do you tie in your artwork with your fragrances?
What was the inspiration behind Fairy Dust?
of this fragrance explosion, especially the natural
Talk about the vision behind Fairy Dust.
trend?
Do you know if Paris had any specific likes or dislikes
that she wanted you to take note of as far as creating Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A - Feb 3
this fragrance?
Which fragrance in your extensive line are you most
Would you consider Paris Hilton to be an inspirational proud of, and/or which would you most like to draw
woman?
attention to as possibly an overlooked gem?
What about the other notes found in Fairy Dust?
Among perfume fans, you’re admired for your work
with roses, spices and comfort scents. (I also like that
Why is Fairy Dust the ideal fragrance for women of all your comfort scents aren’t super sweet bakery items.)
ages?
Do you feel you have a particular affinity for these?
Are there any plans of you and Paris Hilton collabo- I find your simpler scents layer quite nicely. Do you
rating again in the future?
ever layer scents, or recommend layering? Any suggestions?
Interview with Lynn Ayre - Feb. 09
You also do dupes/interpretations of some classic
scents, in addition to your own vintage-style creations.
Can you tell us briefly about yourself?
Was this driven by your own interest in vintage scent
Could you please tell us a bit about your background styles, or customer demand? To you, what smells
“vintage?”
leading up to your career in natural perfumery?
Can you tell us about Natural Perfumery and how you Your website is really extensive some would say
intimidating, due to the sheer number of scents. If you
relate to it?
76
could ask the Posse Blog readership for input, what How is your work for Les Nez different than the one
would you want to know?
for Annick Goutal brand? Obviously Les Nez has
much more limited distribution, while Goutal is
Finally, can you tell me more about your “X” scent?
owned by a large American group, yet your style is
discernible in both. This brings me to the question of
I found it really fascinating. On me it goes through how much is a perfumer you specifically - restrained
phases of being something like a drugstore musk, only by a "brief"?
its perfect, idealized version with alternating whiffs of
what I’d describe as sweaty male armpit, only in a What is it?"
really good, sexy way.
How do you feel about a fragrance writer pondering
What do you learn about perception and skin chem- and writing about associations to a perfume's name?
istry from X?
Is there so much thought given behind the onomastics
Interview with Perfumer Isabelle Doyen - March 2
of perfumes or are we overanalysing?
Isabelle, you are the daughter of a meteorolist, who So how does the fragrance connect those aspects,
spent time as a child in the South Pacific. How did you what's the story?
childhood and past shape you into the perfumer that
Is it a means of therapy through the senses, through
you are?
art?
You have been composing fragrances for Annick
Goutal for years. There is a very discernable aesthetic Do you perfumers have some secret library of a
to the brand which I respect: gauzy, transparent and plethora of scent “snapshots”?
graceful. How much of it is Goutal's vision and how
Do you find yourself loyal to the above axiom?
much of it is yours?
What does your teaching position entail and do you
feel that young, aspiring perfumers have new things to
I have also heard they’re meant to be layered (one on offer to the world of perfumery?
top of the other). Is this true and would you recomSurely there is no parthenogenesis in art, but do you
mend it or not?
ever feel that everything has been already done with so
It is the same with every perfume we create: it may be many new perfumes out, so unless there is some techimportant to know that we never ask ourselves "Are nological innovation things are bound to repeat themwe in the right Goutal direction, would Annick create selves?
this type of perfume?
You're a mother of two (a boy and a girl) and I had fun
On that point, how do you feel about the materials’ hearing Emilie say that iris fragrances smell "like
restrictions as posed by IFRA guidelines and the EU grandmother" to her. Do you believe there are some
smells that are inherently/universally tied to specific
law-frame?
images/impressions (ie. vanilla standing for comfort
or iris for melancholy) or is it only a factor of personHow can a skilled perfumer bypass such obstacles?
What do you respond to that?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
al associations and memories?
you proudest of, or most satisfied with?
What is your opinion about fragrance writing in the You’ve been known to design for other brands, like the
press and on the Net, especially in relation to taking niche brand Parfums MDCI. Do you intend to keep
perfumery as an art form and in shaping the doing that?
niche/mainstream market?
Tell us what you’re up to right now, in olfactory
Is it flattering to be acknowledged/ frustrating to be terms?
critiqued?
How do you see the future of fragrance? And do you
Iso E Super - Its Merits, Its Faults - March 6
personally have a specific hope for the future?
Interview with Natural Perfumer Dawn Hurwitz March 20
What the hell is Iso E Super?
Interview - Perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï - March 19
Dawn, you are an Aroma-therapist and a natural
Patricia de Nicolaï, can you describe your first Perfumer, which came first and did the aromatherapy
training help in any way with becoming a perfumer?
encounter with fragrance for us?
What made you want to take over?
( Why not have both beauty and therapy if both are
possible )?
How may people visit the Osmotheque a year?
You were also an artist (painter) before you became
perfumer, tell us about this please and do you still
paint?
Who visits it?
Do fragrance brands ever come to look for ideas for
What differentiates your fragrances from other niche
their future creations?
fragrance lines?
If you could name just five, what would you say are
the most emblematic fragrances in the Osmotheque’s Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created, you have
so many...
collection? Do you have a “pet perfume”?
What other designers’ fragrances do you wish you had Your newest collection is Limited Editions by Parfums
des Beaux Arts, please tell us about them.
designed?
What influences you, as a designer?
Do you have favorite ingredients?
There must have been a defining moment that led you
What are the Nicolaï brand’s most successful fraWere you inspired by any one perfumer?
grances?
On a more personal level, which of your creations are What was your favorite fragrance growing up?
78
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever munity who is so attached to classics of older times,
smelled?
some which are revered without the people in question
even having the chance tosmell them as they truly
You also recently opened your new boutique; the were at their prime?”
Essence Studio in beautiful Boulder, Colorado, how is
that?
And what about the new trend of corporate blogs (I
mention a few names)? Is Hermès thinking of launchIs there anything else you would like our readers to ing one too?
know about you or your perfumes that we have not
discussed?
So from all the experiences in your life, which one is
the most precious which you would have loved to turn
Interview with Jean Claude Elenna - March 28
into a perfume?
Being Greek I had always wanted to ask whether there Are you an optimist then? I tentatively ask.
is some truth to that, much as it is for Bulgari for
instance (whose grandfather was indeed Greek, immi- An Interview with Jean-Claude Elenna - March 29
grating to Italy). At any rate I perceive you as very
Mediterranean-inspired. Do you agree?”
Mr Ellena, please describe yourself in ten words or
less.
“Apart from the aesthetic choice is there also some
practicality into opting for sparse formulae?
If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive,
deceased, historical or fictional who would they be
One tends to rely much less on ready-made bases like and why.
it was customary in the past, therefore there is better
control of quality/supply of raw materials (and less Your first olfactive memory?
variability on their standards), and also it gives the
opportunity to start one’s own small niche house, like Your muse?
you did with The Different Company. Would you
agree?” I ask him
Does your creativity come always from within YOU,
or has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself
“What would you have to say to this, Jean Claude, in ever involve itself in your work?
relation to your scents created for Hermès, especially
the latest Un Jardin après la Mousson, Hermessence Your favourite food?
Osmanthe Yunnan, the exclusive Japan-only issue Eau
de Ginza based on cherry blossom {Eau de Ginza was An artist whose work fascinates you?
part of specific Hermès creations- including a silk
scarf- especially designed to celebrate the Hermès Most memorable book?
Boutique of Ginza re-opening in 2006} and the new
Hermès Colognes?”
Your birth sign?
Would you love the result in six months from now?
The last dream you can remember?
How do you feel about the perfume-enthusiasts’ com- Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
say you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time. and choice. Yet, it seems that the industry continues to
Does one sacrifice a bit for the other?
recreate the benchmark fragrances you mentioned…
like carbon copies.
Each Hermessence seems to be an etude of a single
ingredient. For example Brin de Réglisse is an etude of Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend
lavender. The Hermessence line seems built around towards 'unisex' fragrances with Bvlgari Eau
the notion of reinventing an ingredient and presenting Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about
it in a thought provoking interpretation. Which raw unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional
material has presented the most challenge and why?
genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are
so few new ideas for masculines?
The great Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor to you.
Would you share a personal story about him that You have composed a trio of new fragrances I prespeaks to his true nature and to your friendship?
viewed that will be released in May 2009. Please share
with us what they are and their raison d’etre?
Your favourite ingredients or raw materials?
Your quote from the New York Times:
The fragrance you dream of creating?
Tell us more about fragrance as a lingua franca.
Which of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound,
touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your Making Scents of It - April 1
work?
What makes a great perfumer?
Many of your compositions share the quality of transparency. What does that quality mean to you? What Perfumers work in close partnership with the marketemotions does it evoke? Are there other works of art ing czars of the global beauty business, such as Estee
in addition to perfume (e.g. paintings and music) that Lauder and Elizabeth?
seem to share this quality & feeling?
Interview with Keiko Mecheri - April 3
Five years ago, your name was known to a much
smaller group of people, mostly in the industry. Today, As we remain, however, in the era of everyday life,
with the impact of Chandler Burr's recent book, always, it took some time before we both were finally
groups like Sniffapalooza and the blogosphere, you able to focus on the interview I thank her very much
are famous. Did you ever think you would be known for taking the time to answer our questions.
to such a wide circle of people and have groupies like
a rock star, who follow your every creation?
When were Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri founded and
what was your vision for the brand at the time?
Why is there a lack of great masculines being created
in the past few years, although 78% of men wear fra- How would you define in your own words the Keiko
grance?
Mecheri style of perfumery?
Terre D' Hermes is an example of an outstanding mod- How would you define in your own words the Keiko
ern masculine. Hundreds of new men’s fragrances are Mecheri style of perfumery?
launched every year; men deserve quality fragrances
80
People often note a parallelism between your per- to date, do you think?
fumes and those of Serge Lutens, do you agree with
that?
Can you tell us a bit more about the new packaging for
your fragrances?
As an artistic director for the brand, how do you find
inspiration?
Do you think that your perfumes that bear, implicitly,
more narrative titles such as Scarlette, Paname, Les
What is your style of work? Are you more like Zazous, Loukhoum, Génie des Bois, are different on
Frederic Malle, say, an editor, or more visionary, like the whole or were conceived differently than the ones
Serge Lutens, or do you think that you have your own that are more avowedly based on an inspirational natstyle?
ural-world raw material?
Is it fair to say that one of the ambitions of a line such How important is for you the selection of a perfume
as Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri is to offer its own inter- name and how do you go about it?
pretations of as large a range of real-world scents: a
violet perfume, an amber perfume, an osmanthus per- Will your new website be an e-commerce site?
fume etc?
Any new creations or new artistic directions to look
Is you ideal, in other words, to constitute an extensive forward to in 2009-2010?
and comprehensive library of perfumes?
Patricia Bilodeau - Perfumer - April 8
Do you think that the opposition between naturals and
synthetics is a relevant one?
When did your realize you wanted to be a parfumeur?
Do you have favorite aromas and/or aromachemicals? How has your career changed during your different
positions at various firms?
What are currently the bestsellers of the brand? What
are your favorites?
What are your favorite and least favorite scents, and
why?
Can you tell us a bit about the background history of
Gourmandises on which you worked with perfumer What mistakes do people make when choosing perYann Vasnier?
fume?
Was Mitsouko a distant inspiration?
What mistakes do people make when wearing perfume?
With what perfumers did you work on Loukhoum, its
variants, and the new Crystal d'Ambre? And Scarlett? What have you learned most about scent in your
Do you embrace more transparency regarding this career?
type of information that connoisseurs usually appreciate or do you think perfume more generally needs What is your favorite place to be in NYC?
mystery, universality?
What is your favorite shop?
What would be your most original or risk-taking work
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
What is your favorite drink?
What is your favorite restaurant?
Céline Ellena - An Interview - April 25
What is your favorite thing to do in NYC that you can What are your influences as a designer?
do nowhere else?
Natural Perfumer Exhibits - April 19
What is natural perfume?
What's the difference in the way it smells?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fraWhy does it cost so much? (Aftelier’s are $195 for .25 grance br
oz.)
How long does the scent last?
Christophe Laudamiel Talks - April 30
Has the natural perfume industry been growing?
How many individual scents were created for the
Is the making of natural perfumes more environmen- World Economic Forum?
tally friendly than the making of synthetic fragrances?
Can you briefly describe each of them and perhaps
Interview - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - April 22
some of the novel materials employed therein?
Stéphanie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the Can you name a couple of the novel materials
fragrances you’ve created?
employed in the creation of these fragrances that are of
special interest to you?
The scents are described as “air sculpture” to your
How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What thinking, how does this differ from a perfume? How
was your creative process different?
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you What are the challenges of creating scents that don’t
live in a bottle or on individuals?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- People form deep attachments to their favorite fragrance brands?
grances, can you create the same kind of connections
between a fragranced place and a person?
On the other hand, to what extent can you stay rare and
alternative?
Can a fragrance create or facilitate a connection
between a person and a place?
Who’s right? Dior or Santa Maria Di Novella?
82
How will perfumers’role change with these expres- cracked the code?
sions of scent?
And these are things that are new to you?
"The real challenge is, how do you give a scent meaning?
In a way Guerlain mentored you before even met M
Guerlain?
Interviewing Perfumer - Jean-Paul Guerlain - May 5
Would I be stupid enough not to listen? Not to absorb
that experience?
What makes it right now, with Thierry?
What part did you play in the appointment of Thierry? So, M Guerlain, your grandfather was your mentor.
How did he pass things on to you?
Firmenich offered you a job didn’t they in the 1950s?
You worked with your grandfather on Ode didn’t you?
But you were always going to go back to work for the
That formula is not touched now?
family firm, weren’t you?
So when did you two first meet?
I know, M Guerlain, that you put a lot of emphasis on
literature and music they are very important to you?
You had already been hired at this point, Thierry?
How have they influenced your work?
So do you feel like you are going through a process
Are you looking to poetry and music and literature for
together?
your inspiration, Thierry?
This sourcing part of the job is new to you isn’t it?
How will the next big perfume evolve collaboratively?
Is it a dying art to see the fragrance development
through from the sourcing of materials to the creation Thierry, What would you like to pass on?
of the juice?
Do you appreciate that you are inspiring another genSo you are obviously learning quite a lot, Thierry, even eration, M Guerlain?
though you have practised perfumery already for
Do you feel like you are teaching, M Guerlain, or is it
sometime?
a very natural process?
You obviously get on well. Do you think it is working
Interview with Jean-Claude Elenna - May 7
because of your personalities?
So that’s what you have to pass on this passion?
Mr Ellena, please describe yourself in ten words or
less?
Thierry, you are learning about the sourcing side of the
business, but what have you learnt in terms of per- If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive,
fumery from M Guerlain. You’ve talked about the deceased, historical or fictional who would they be
‘Guerlinade’, the Guerlain signature, have you and why?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Your first olfactive memory?
Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend
towards ‘unisex’ fragrances with Bvlgari Eau
Your muse?
Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about
unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional
Does your creativity come always from within YOU, genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are
or has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself so few new ideas for masculine?
ever involve itself in your work?
Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some
Your favourite food?
say you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time.
An artist whose work fascinates you?
Which raw material has presented the most challenge
Most memorable book?
and why?
Your birth sign?
The last dream you can remember?
What story are you telling with Vanille Galante? And
how does the word "Galante" using the feminine
instead of the masculine relate to this story?
The great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor What image or experience was your point of departo you. Would you share a personal story about him ture?
that speaks to his true nature and to your friendship?
I would love to know more about the salicylates in the
base of Vanille Galante; as far as I've been able to puzzle it out, they don't seem to be aroma chemicals as
much as structural elements. Is this correct? If so,
how do they transform the other notes?
Which of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound,
touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your As a follow up, is it unusual for Hermès to create what
work?
some in the industry call ‘flankers’, or updates on a
fragrance?
Many of your compositions share the quality of transparency. What does that quality mean to you?
You have composed a trio of new fragrances that I previewed has just been released as of April 30, 2009.
Five years ago, you were known to a very narrow Please share with us their raison d’etre?
group, mostly in the industry. Today, with the impact
of Chandler Burr's³ recent book you are famous. Did Questions & Answers with Ormande Jayne - May 22
you ever think you would be known to such a wide circle of people and have groupies like a rock star, who Hi Linda, great to meet you. Tell us a bit more about
follow your every creation?
your luxury perfume house, Ormonde Jayne how did it
come into being?
Why is there a lack of great masculine being created in
the past few years, although 78% of men wear fra- What a glamorous beginning! We’re now imagining
grance?
you as a modern-day inhabitant of Patrick Süsskind’s
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exotic world of Perfume (only, without murderous What is your favorite flower?
intent, of course). What skills do you need to be a
world-class perfumer?
What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring?
Is there still a cut-throat element of competition in Suggest a fragrance for our readers and your fans.
your industry?
An Interview with Laurie Erickson - June 1
How do you go about creating a new perfume does it
start with a fantasy ‘end result’, or with a new ingredi- When did you become interested in perfume and what
ent?
was the first perfume you ever wore?
During what sounds like an incredibly stimulating life,
you have lived in Argentina, Poland, Belgium,
Germany, Israel and South Africa, among other places
where have you felt most at home?
So did Sonoma Scent Studio get started due to your
love of flowers and the desire to preserve their fragrance can you tell us the story of what led you to start
your own perfumery?
Is there a scent that always transports you somewhere How do you feel about using natural versus synthetics
special?
in perfume? Is there really a difference between using
organics and scents created in a laboratory?
If you could live anywhere in the world, where would
it be and why?
Can you explain the difference between an Absolute
and an Essential oil for our readers?
Holiday in South of France at La Pinede PlageWhat’s
your favourite holiday destination at the moment?
Do you distill your own essences (tinctures), and could
you briefly explain the process for our readers?
Shopping in London Ormonde Jayne perfume boutique You have a prestigious boutique on Bond Street Where do you get your ideas and inspiration to create
and are stocked in the oh-so-chic Middle Eastern a new fragrance?
equivalent of Colette or X Corso Como in Dubai,
Boutique 1: what are your favourite shops in London It sounds beautiful. Is Sonoma Scent Studio open for
and Dubai?
tours by appointment and do you see yourself conducting a perfume workshop for those who'd like to
If you could travel in time, where would you go?
learn more?
What do you never leave home without?
What distinguishes Sonoma Scent Studio from other
independent perfumeries?
What’s the most romantic place you’ve ever been?
Interview with Joanne Bassett - June 1
As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you?
Do you think you'll make a matching scented candle
for Fireside in the future?
Which fragrance is your best seller and which one is
your personal favorite?
What is the perfume that best represents Spring?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
I'm curious; do fragrances have visual images and
sounds for you when you create a new one? For example, when I wear Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, I 'see'
it as an indigo perfume, and the music I associate with
it is Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata. What are your
thoughts on this?
ments?
In this perfumery field, the scent will not be a massive
one and that is good, however don't you think that an
artist wishes to be recognised by a considerable audience, participating on the process of "art education"?
Do you have a favorite theme - like woods/ incense/ You owe an olfactory gallery and use a strong art
fruits/ florals?
approach, what is opinion about it?
Whom would you consider the greatest master per- Sure! And don't you feel some responsability in edufumer, and what is your Holy Grail fragrance? ( You cating noses, participating in directly of the "perfume
can only choose one )!
education of the masses"?
What's your # 1?
Do you think is it a risk for the niche perfumery principles, for a future banalization?
As a self-taught perfumer, what one piece of advice
would you give to a student of perfume who wants to What is your opinion about this issue now and how do
create their own fragrances?
you envisage it?
Do you create bespoke (custom private blends) for What is to be radical in perfumery creation?
your clients?
Since there the artist is free to create, apart from each
perfumer style, is there, at least, some alignment or
focus on each fragrance development in order to have
a diverse and rich perfumes range?
What is your favorite flower?
Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl - June 3
My direction for the perfumers was to show me
their favorite ideas, something new, different, or something existing but with very high quality. But in the
end, it was my job to select the fragrances I most liked.
Of course, I try to select a variety of different directions, so not everything smells similar.
What are the main advantages and disadvantages in
What is the sensuality you capture in your perfumery
this change?
you judge being the "ideal sensuality scent" for indiIf we look at your role as the role of a art gallery cura- viduals?
tor, how is the process of joining an incredible team
The great writer E. H Gombrich in his classic book
and selecting these fragrances?
"The story of Art" confirms "There really is no such
Since Biehl Parfumkunstwerke is a free space for fra- thing as Art. There are only artists", so the controvergrance artists, is your idea to join more revolutionary sial point is "finally, what is art in perfumery"? Is
and radical fragrance artists, under some require- always perfumery an art? How do we measure the art
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in perfumery and the artisanship value since "scent" is As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?
something so undefined and sensorial?
Moreover what is art for someone, perhaps is not art
for other one, for example, someone can see art in What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever
Franz Marc but not in August Macke, the same may smelled?
happen between perfumers and their perfumeworks?
What power do fragrances have power over people, do
Star Perfumer - Maurice Roucel, Symrise - June 6
you think, if any?
How did you start the path of your perfumery art and Why do you think so many women and men are part
which were the creativity influences on your work of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and
natural trend?
(people, places, concepts and others)?
During your initial perfumery learning do you have Meet Jean-Claude Elenna - June 10
some influences that collaborate to form you as a perfumer?
If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive,
deceased, historical or fictional who would they be
How do you balance in your creative process the con- and why?
cepts of having a light smelling skin but also vibrant
and seductive?
Your first olfactive memory?
What is opinion about?
Your muse?
What is sensuality for you?
Does your creativity come always from within you, or
has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself ever
And how it smells if we consider that there is a sensu- involve itself in your work?
ality concept which is collective?
Your favourite food?
How do I define sensuality?
Interview - Laura Stern - June 8
Most memorable book?
Could you please tell us a bit about your background
Your birth sign?
There must have been a defining moment that led you The last dream you can remember?
The Friend?
Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you?
The great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve to you. Would you share a personal story about him
that speaks to his true nature and to your friendship?
created?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
ture?
I would love to know more about the salicylates in the
base of Vanille Galante; as far as I've been able to puzWhich of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound, zle it out, they don't seem to be aroma chemicals as
touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your much as structural elements. Is this correct? If so,
work?
how do they transform the other notes?
Many of your compositions share the quality of trans- You have composed a trio of new fragrances that has
parency. What does that quality mean to you?
just been released. Please share with us their raison
d’etre?
Did you ever think you would be known to such a
wide circle of people and have groupies like a rock Nose of Guerlain - June 13
star, who follow your every creation?
What inspired you to enter this field?
Although 78% of men wear fragrance, why is there a
lack of great masculine being created in the past few What’s the essence of Guerlain?
years?
What makes Guerlain so timeless?
Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend
towards ‘unisex’ fragrances with Bvlgari Eau Marketing perfumes has always been risky. how do
Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about you manage?
unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional
genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are What’s the one scent that has appealed across the
so few new ideas for masculine?
globe and why?
Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some Is there a panel that designs the brand? Or is it a onesay you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time. man show?
We need inspiration, intuition, feeling, convictions to
Which raw material has presented the most challenge feel the right product. We are a small team which
and why?
decide what’s going to work and why and what’s not
going to work and why not?
Do you have any plans for a Hermessence with this
raw material?
Why has Guerlain only stuck to fragrances and make
up?
For your latest Hermessence Vanille Galante, I have a
number of questions: What story are you telling with How do you select the fragrance?
Vanille Galante? And how does the word "Galante"
using the feminine instead of the masculine relate to How should people select a perfume?
this story?
Do fragrances relate to personality?
What image or experience was your point of depar-
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There are smells one may like but may not be suitable What are your favorite smells?
what then?
Which fragrance do you wish you had created?
Your personal choices?
What power do perfumes have over people, do you
What is it like to be the nose of such an exquisite think, if any?
brand?
How do you tie in your artwork with your fragrances?
Why did you take such a long time to launch in India?
I have to tell you, I am also totally smitten with Mandy
Any special fragrances for India?
Aftel and her fragrances. She is a goddess. (so are you)
Has she influenced you in anyway?
An Interview with Roxana Villa - June 14
Could you please tell us a bit about your background of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and
natural trend?
When I think of you, I believe that you have chosen a
metaphysical path in perfumery as well as your everyWhat led you to perfumery, especially natural per- day life. Is this true?
fumery?
Is there anything else you would like our readers to
What differentiates your fragrance from other natural know about you or your perfumes that we have not
discussed?
fragrance lines?
Can you tell us about Natural Perfumery?
Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created?
What is the oddest ingredient that you have used in What is the perfume that best represents Spring?
perfumery?
Where do you draw your inspiration?
An Interview with Johann Maria Farina - June 18
There must have been a defining moment that led you
Most fragrance pyramids tend towards fiction anyway,
don’t they?
Were you inspired by any one perfumer?
Is there a principal difference then between Eau de
Cologne and the earlier Eau Admirable?
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever What is the relation between the firm of Jean Marie
smelled?
Farina in Paris which ultimately became part of Roger
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
et Gallet, who market an Eau de Cologne Extra Vieille What do your distribution channels look like?
Jean Marie Farina to this day?
How important are foreign markets?
Considering Napoleon’s excessive use of perfume
pretty much everybody must have supplied him?
And do you have particularly strong markets? How
about the US?
Still, was not the Farina family and corporate identity
shaped by the need to constantly defend yourself Did you ship to North America in colonial times?
against innumerable plagiarizers and forgeries?
Will you tell me how much cologne you produce?
So were there actually any other genuine Farinas in the
cologne business?
Production has moved to the city perimeter.
Was Wilhelm Mülhens (the founder of what became How has buying essential oils changed through the
4711) the first person to falsely adopt the Farina years?
name?
That’s hard to find, though, isn’t it, at least the genuine
I am wondering how the Farina and Mülhens families Mysore variety?
interacted with each other socially?
One of the biggest challenges for you must be the new
The Farinas were prominent citizens and the Mülhens IRFA regulations. There are currently attempts to ban
were becoming increasingly successful through the certain citrus oils.
19th century. Were they hostile or did they avoid one
another, were there Romeo and Juliet stories of war- What have you done about that? Taken it out?
ring clans?
As the head of such a venerable house, what is your
But your family was deeply involved in the develop- view of “modern” perfumery that is based on the use
ment of German trademark legislation.
of synthetics?
Is it true you were taken over by Roger et Gallet in Is there a perfume you particularly like?
1975?
Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour - July 9
Your father was the first company director in the 20th
century who bore the name Farina. How did that come How do I describe Bertrand?
about?
Bertrand, you have created some of the most memoIs ownership still widely distributed among the family rable fragrances of the past decade, including
today?
Timbuktu and Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are
you going to collaborating with the Company's as its
Was this move driven by a new vision for Farina sole perfumer going forward?
Gegenüber?
Will you be doing other projects as well?
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What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan
Parfumeur creation Havana Vanille. Please tell us from
start to finish. Everyone seems to believe it is about
Cuba? Is it part of L’Artisan’s ‘travel’ series’?
of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially
if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a commercial hit?
L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with,
not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some that you have not been able to create?
of the regulations on raw materials effect how you create a fragrance?
Favorite Artists?
You told me once that you are devoted to the female What’s on your ipod these days?
world, yet most of your fragrances are non gender specific, please explain?
Where did you grow up?
Of all the fragrances you have created during your First memory of scent?
career, which presented the greatest challenge in terms
of composition?
A Life Less Ordinary - Estee Lauder - July 17
Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you When did your interest in fragrance begin?
had created?
At what age were you allowed to start wearing makeYou have traveled the globe, Is there a place you want up?
to see and study?
Do you ever experiment?
How do you feel about the state of contemporary
'commercial' fragrance?
What was your first favorite product?
Will the rise of niche and boutique fragrance force Where do you draw inspiration for the brand?
change to the landscape?
What upcoming trends do you foresee?
How do you think bloggers and "perfume critics” have
changed the fragrant landscape. There is a lot of trans- What’s the best beauty advice Estée passed down to
parency, everything is in real time. In what way do the you?
same people, few of them are perfumers, help or hurt
fine fragrance?
Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand - July 18
There are about dozen great perfumers who have a cult How did your career start, how did you find this vocafollowing, and often overshadow the brand Bertrand tion?
you’re a rock star, seriously… to thousands of perfumistos. How does that feel?
That is what practically everyone calls you so how
does it feel to be a living legend?
How do you keep it real and be true to the core values
of the brand?
So tell us about the early days, you worked with some
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
of the biggest designers right from the start, didn’t gotten over the years. Givaudan has created iconic
you?
unforgettable fragrances as Thierry Mugler Angel,
Robert Piguet Fracas, etc, what you think it essential
You were one of the first to work with American for perfumers to create winning fragrances nowadays
brands. How did that come about?
which become modern classics for the present and the
future?
What about France in all that?
By the way, do you think the IFRA regulations of
A Visit with Linda Pilkington - July 21
some materials will impact on how perfumers create
their fragrances, that is, their creativeness on perfume
“What is your stand on the current situation with the making will be affected? In general, what you think
about this issue?
restrictions in perfumery?”
Interview with Perfumer - Oliver Gillotin - July 22
When did your love for perfumery begin?
What are your deepest fragrant memories? Do you
think they have influenced what you are today as a
perfumer?
Where are your main sources of inspiration and/or Do you have a fragrance dream? Some raw material
you would like to explore on a fragrance, some accord
general influences to make fragrances?
would you like to develop and/or some personal focus
How is your style in perfumery, I mean, how you asso- on fragrance creation you envision from now to the
ciate your creative and technical works in practical future and never had the opportunity to work on?
way?
Givaudan has some excellent initiatives in sustainabilDo you think you have an “olfactive signature” on ity on raw materials through its Innovative Naturals
your perfume creations? Something that is like a fin- Programme such as the sustainable sourcing of
Venezuelan Tonka Beans and of the Laotian benzoin in
gerprint of Olivier Gillotin
Northern Laos and the preservation of sandalwood oil
When you are creating a fragrance, what is the most from Western Australia. In general lines, how do you
contribute actively to these initiatives?
challenging issue you deal with in?
As a master perfumer and also a Vice President with
an outstanding background in one of the leading companies in Flavors and Fragrances, what were the main
initial achievements you had in your career you think
were important to establish you as a legendary perfumer and a renowned fragrance executive?
Now a very special question: What is the scent that
expresses yourself, your essence?
Beautiful scented memory! And now, a classic question for a perfume industry professional. How do you
envision the future of perfumery?
Making fragrances now is very different from how Olivier, to finalize this unforgettable interview, some
was in the past mainly because there is few time to news about your next fragrance works you would like
perfumers to perfect their creations against the strong to share with us?
demand of the recent market. With hundreds of releases per year are on shelves, some of them are easily for92
Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska - July 24
Kurkdjian just did… the House of Roudnitska fragrances?
You grew up the son of perfumers. As a child were you
Are you working on a new parfum Can you share any
aware that your family was not like your friends?
details?
And as a follow up, at what age did you know you
An Interview with Artist Mathilde Laurent - Aug. 5
wanted to create perfume?
I have read your father start training you in the Art of Mathilde Laurent, besides yourself, who would you
perfume at age 7. How intensive was this training?
have liked to be?
At what age did you create your first ‘perfume’ and Your first encounter with fragrance?
what does it smell like?
What’s the very first scent you ever wore?
What was your first commercial perfume and what
inspired its creation?
Please describe the home and gardens of your family? Your favorite flower?
What is your favorite of all your father’s perfumes? Your favorite fragrance components?
Did you ever collaborate on a fragrance with you
father?
What fragrance by a different designer do you wish
you had designed ?
Which raw materials is your favorite to work with?
Why?
Which Cartier fragrance would you like to have
designed?
What is your view on ‘natural’ perfumery?
Which fragrance was the most difficult to create
among your perfumes for Frederic Malle, Parfums Which perfumer(s) style do you admire?
Delrae, Ellie D and Hors la Monde. I know they are
collaborations, can you explain the process?
Please explain about the company Art et Parfum? Its A travel destination that you really enjoy ?
origin and where it is today? Also about your mother?
A fashion designer you particularly enjoy?
What are your thoughts about the future of perfumery?
What are the three most difficult issues? In which After custom-made perfumery, you designed Roadster,
ways is the 21st century’s issues than from previous for men, and you have just unveiled a Fine Perfumery
generations? Is there a crisis?
collection, ‘Les Heures de Parfum’. Which one brings
you the most creative enjoyment?
Now this is very close to my heart… Would you ever
consider starting your own perfume company, the way Which leads us to the next question: are the work
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
methods very different?
sole perfumer going forward?
Mathilde Laurent, what is your own personal luxury?
Will you be doing other projects as well?
Fabrice Penot - An Interview - August 7
What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan
Parfumeur creation - Havana Vanille. Please tell us
Fabrice, tell us a little bit about yourself and your from start to finish. Everyone seems to believe it is
about Cuba? Is it part of L’Artisan’s ‘travel’ series’?
brand, Le Labo. What made you want to do it?
You told me once that you are devoted to the female
world, yet most of your fragrances are non gender speHow can we recognize one of your fragrances? What cific, please explain?
Of all the fragrances you have created during your
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you career, which presented the greatest challenge in terms
of composition?
How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you
had created?
grance brands?
You have traveled the globe, Is there a place you want
to see and study?
Anything else you’d like to add?
The Not So Glamorous World of Scent - Aug. 9
The result?
How do you think bloggers and "perfume critics” have
changed the fragrant landscape. There is a lot of transparency, everything is in real time. In what way do the
same people, few of them are perfumers, help or hurt
fine fragrance?
Let’s be honest, when was the last time you heard
There are about dozen great perfumers who have a cult
about the perfumer behind a successful fragrance?
following, and often overshadow the brand Bertrand
So when it came our turn to create our own fragrances, you’re a rock star, seriously… to thousands of perwe decided to turn the tables. Are approach is simple: fumistos. How does that feel?
who are we to tell an artist what is interesting, releHow do you keep it real and be true to the core values
vant, or acceptable?
of the brand?
Inside the Creative Mind - Bertrand Duchaufour - Aug
28
Bertrand, you have created some of the most memo- if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a comrable fragrances of the past decade, including mercial hit?
Timbuktu and Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are
you going to collaborating with the Company's as its Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with,
94
that you have not been able to create?
grances? And how is the process of creation according
to this concept?
Favorite Artists?
What’s on your ipod these days?
You have developed exclusive fragrances for the Park
Hyatt Hotels of many cities. Does the location influence in the way you design them?
I learned that the hotel’s motto is that Luxury is personal. Is this the reason why they looked for developing their own fragrances?
First memory of scent?
Perfumer - My Gig - Sept. 1
What is your typical day like?
How did you get where you are?
I believe hotels want to give to their guests a
unique and exclusive experience. Each branch is different; especially in the luxurious world, they have to
offer a unique service to their guests. Perfume is surely part of this exclusive and unique experience.
What do you like most about your job?
I have already published about your work with the
Japanese brand Visvim. How did a French perfumer
started to work with a Japanese designer?
What don’t you like?
How much money do you make?
What brought you two together to create a line of fraCan you share your favorite fragrance and explain grances?
how you created it?
Was that a challenge to you?
Interview With Perfumer Blaise Mautin - Sept. 1
Do you have a signature for your fragrances? Can
Do you recall what was the first and most pleasant someone recognize your work or the perfume is one
experience you had in your life with fragrances, hundred percent devoted to the client?
scents, smells or even odors?
Interviewing Pierre Guillaume - Sept. 9
How would it be possible, to capture the magic of such
How did Parfumerie Générale come about?
a moment and to make it last?
How did you start in the art of creating fragrances?
Most interviewers want to know what inspires or
influences the work of a perfumer. I myself have
already asked these questions more than once. Today I
would like to explore a different angle: How does fragrances influence you life? Or your way of relating to
others?
What is your perfume motto?
Are all Parfumerie Générale scents created by you?
Have you had any perfume mentors?
What are your favorite perfumes?
In your point of view, how would you describe fra- Which of your creations are your favorite?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Does Parfumerie Générale plan to export the line to What influences you as a designer?
the U.S.?
Does your shop have a sample program?
are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteristics?
Parfumerie Générale perfumes have very unique
names. How do you choose names for your creations? Do you think that being a woman influences the way
What piece of advice would you give to a perfume
lover?
An Interview with Sarah Horowitz - Sept. 11
How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do
But how, exactly, does one become an expert in such a you have any hopes for the future?
realm?
Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle - Sept. 17
So what is your official title? I honestly have no idea
what to call you?
What inspires your fragrances?
Take me back to the beginning how did this all start for When creating custom scents, how are you able to capyou?
ture intangible things like emotions and memories in a
bottle?
Do you have to have formal training?
What’s the strangest fragrance you’ve been asked to
Where do you begin?
create?
In essence, your education came in the form of every- We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve
one you met along the way, yeah?
You were fearless for someone who had just moved to
L.A!
How did you go about opening your business and what
do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncerWhat can you tell me about the companies you've tain times?
done blending for?
What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of
Why?
Do you prefer working with people one on one, or What advice would you give to anyone contemplating
working with a big company better... or is that com- becoming a perfumer?
paring apples and oranges?
Can you give me an idea of your creative process?
How do the in-person experiences vary from the
online version?
Do you start with a concept or fragrance note in mind?
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What’s up next? Do you have a new fragrance in the What aspect of culture has had the most profound
works?
effect on your work?
When someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance, Favorite food?
how do you go about creating it for your client? How
do you decide about the notes, how long does the Favorite artist?
Favorite place to vacation?
Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger - Sept. 17
If you could capture elements of nature in a fragrance
what would they be?
Where were you born?
What was your first olfactive memory?
If you weren't a perfumer, you would be...?
At what age did you begin to study perfume and You have worked on both high end niche and mainstream fragrances. Is it difficult to switch 'hats'?
where?
As a perfumer at Mane, we realize your work is highly confidential. is there a glimpse into a fragrance you
Do you believe that Lipstick Rose from the Editions are working on now?
de Parfums Frederic Malle was a turning point in your
career, as before that, your name was not known out- Guerlain’s Idylle Man - Sept. 28
side the industry. Since many believe perfumers have
a cult following, have you noticed more interest in He smokes! Does it interfer with your memory?
your work?
“How do you say that?”
Can you tell us about the collaboration between yourself and Fredric Malle?
Interview with Fabrice Penot - Sept. 30
What was your first fragrance as a nose?
Which raw material has been the most problematic in What exactly is your role in the creation of perfume?
creating a fragrance?
Le Labo offers masculine, feminine and unisex scents.
Which fragrance was the most challenging?
What distinguishes each category?
What was its inspiration and please explain the devel- What role do you think scent plays in relationships?
opment of its composition from concept to your final
achievement?
I’ve read that scent helps to solidify memory. I’m curious, do you have specific memories affiliated with
Were you surprised that Jean-Claude Ellena, created specific scents?
an interpretation of this scent and how does it compare
and contrast with your original?
Have you ever tried to capture specific memories with
a scent?
What perfume do you wish you had created?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
What’s the idea behind creating exclusive scents for Which perfume was your first as ‘le nez’?
different cities?
In your collaborations, which fragrance was the most
Any hints regarding the scent?
challenging to create?
But I can’t know the smell of New York’s scent unless Why?
I visit your store in New York?
Which collaboration do you believe put you on the
Perfume Talk with Yosh Han - Oct. 3
map as a famous and talented perfumer?
Do you have fragrance “cravings”?
How much has the internet and bloggers and aficionados contributed to your fame?
Or maybe you need a change in fragrance between
Many of our readers consider you to be their favorite
burgers and fries, too!?
perfumer, are you aware that so many thousands of
Do you think it is possible to make a perfume for both perfumistos follow your every accord? How do
genders that will move them or touch both genders the ground yourself, knowing you are recognized by so
many?
same way? .
Are they thinking the same thing?
What are the greatest challenges to the future of the
Art of Perfumery?
Do we have also a collective olfactory conscience?
There is much buzz about IFRA….as an artist do these
So, do you think there is a relation there or is t just rules restrict your creativity? Please explain.
coincidence and my theory has no logic at all?
Do you start a fragrance with its story or the raw mateWere you meant to be a perfumer? What does it take rials?
to be one?
Do you believe in ‘masculines’, ‘feminines’ or in
You describe in your site how is the process of creat- shared perfumes. Is there a need for all three?
ing a personal perfume for a client. But how long does
it take to design a personal fragrance? ( in terms of If you weren’t a perfumer, you would be?
timing ). Do you keep records for future orders?
Favorite artists?
Exclusive Interview with Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 5
Favorite fashion designer?
Where did you grow up? Please describe your childWhere do you go to escape?
hood…
When did you realize you were destined to be a per- What music is on your ipod?
fumer?
What was the last book you read?
What was your first olfactive memory?
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What is your greatest personal fear?
ularity or prevalence of particular scents?
Please share your vision for your boutique in Paris. How does this dynamic inform your creations?
Are you the first recognized nose to create a shop.
What was the driving force behind this concept?
Interview with - Raymond Matts - Oct. 10
What can we look forward from you in the near Raymond, we know that you are a very important part
future?
of the fragrance industry and have been for over 20
years. I am very curious to know if there was a turning
Interview with - Natural Perfumer Persephenie - Oct. 7 point in your early career that made you gravitate
towards the Fragrance Industry. What was that
Persephenie, what led you to perfumery, especially moment and why? Was it a personal experience or a
natural perfumery?
personal experience with a fragrance that affected
you?
What differentiates your fragrances from other natural
fragrance lines?
When did you realize that you had a great sense of
smell?
Where will your fragrances be available at?
Who did you train with?
What power do fragrances have over people, do you
think, if any?
Was there anyone influential in your life that mentored
you or assisted you in your path to be a fragrance
Why do you think so many woman and men are part designer?
of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and
natural trend?
Do you have any favorite memories in working with
any perfumers?
You teach classes in perfumery, own a boutique, and
are a Certified Aromatherapist and a perfumer. How Any funny or somber stories you can tell us?
do you manage it all?
I am aware that you have worked with a multitude of
Tell us about your upcoming events for all the Los perfumers, do you have your favorites or do you work
Angeles people that are interested.
with any perfumer that the client wishes you to?
An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer - Oct. 9
You have worked with many houses such as
Abercrombie and Fitch, Clinique and Aramis. In your
Can you tell us a little bit about how you came to be a own personal creativity are there any fragrance that
stands out for you and why?
Perfumer?
What aspects of the field are people unaware of?
What were the notes involved that you felt made the
scent very individual?
How long does it take to develop a perfume?
You also have helped many well known perfumers
How great a role do cultural changes play in the pop- create very well known perfumes. Does this encom99
Glen O. BRECHBILL
pass what you do as Fragrance Architect?
Isn't it a great responsibility to make perfumes under
this historical brand name?
What is a Fragrance Architect?
You are working on new colognes: "Le Vetiver" and
What do you think is lacking in the general fragrance "L'Eau Neuve". Could you give more information
media that should be addressed?
about those scents?
Are there any problem areas today they you think Why did you choose those themes: Vetiver and Citruscould be improved upon in the fragrance industry or at Patchouli colognes?
the sales counters, could you enlighten us a little?
Is it homage to classic themes – or you feel that
If I could give you a perfume magic wand and change there`re no perfect scents in those categories? What
the style of perfumery, what direction would you like are their briefs given to perfumer? Timing of launchit to go?
es?
Talk to us about “olfactive poetry”. What does this You mentioned that another perfumer from Grasse,
mean to you?
Lucien Ferrero, instead of O. Giacobetti – has created
the last fragrances. Would you please name some reaIf you had an opportunity to write for Sniffapalooza sons for that switch?
Magazine would you?
Could you give us more info about his perfumes made
Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian Oct. 13
for other brands?
Are you going to re-launch some other Lubin's classic,
like Gin-Fizz, Nuit de Longchamp, Fougère, Eva,
How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Fumée, etc.? Do you have all those archives with origare, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteris- inal formulas – or ready perfumes stock? Could you
describe your work with archives (should I say Lubin's
tics?
Perfume Treasury?)? Any relations your House has
Do you think that being a woman influences the way with Osmothèque Paris?
Is it possible to re-launch those 'Napoleonic' colognes
What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you from 18-19 centuries and could they have the same
success nowadays?
How do you envision the future for fragrances?
Do you have any hopes for the future?
Interview with Perfumer - Roger Broudoux - Oct. 14
Could you describe your vision or concept of Lubin
House development (or should I say Evolution?) in
next 3-5 years? Do you prefer re-launches or new
scents? Do you prefer unknown beauty or commercial
success?
How did the idea to revive The House of Lubin came About Lubin bottles. I've seen the new bottle models
and like them very much. But Lubin's bottle for Eva
to you?
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made by Lalique is just marvelous – are you going to Interview with Rodrigo Flores Roux - Oct. 27
make luxury editions of Lubin again?
You know, wear and love many of his fragrant creAll the people have their dreams. What are the dreams ations, so now meet the perfumer, the man and his art.
of Gilles Thevenin?
Thank you for joining us, Rodrigo. To learn more
Imagine yourself as a futurologist. How the Perfume about who you are today, tell us about your childindustry will look like in 2007? In ten years? 50 years? hood?
What are your 10 favourite perfumes The "Best of the What are your most pervasive olfactive memories?
World" Perfumes?
What was your mother’s scent?
Interview - Chandler Burr - October 20
When did you decide to become a perfumer? Where
Often a bystander to the mental perception of art, did you study?
scent is (quite ironically) the most deeply corporeal
and imaginative of all the senses. This most precise Did you have a mentor?
ability permits us to detect the sharp hint of citrus, the
questionably musty signature of a city street, or the What was your first fragrance as a nose?
musk romanticism of an Oriental spice. What better
medium to express the natural beauty of scent than What raw materials do you enjoy working with?
through perfume?
What raw materials do you find the most challenging?
What is your favorite part of your work?
Rodrigo, there were over 600 fragrances launched last
How would you describe the appeal of perfume to an year… thoughts?
individual unfamiliar with its intricacies?
There is much debate on the term ‘niche perfume’.
One of your books, The Emperor of Scent, discusses What does it mean to you? Does it have any meaning?
Luca Turin’s vibration theory of olfaction. What
inspired you to write about this subject?
You have what I call a ‘dubious honor’; you are the
only Latin American perfumer who studied fine fraYour work as the New York Times’ perfume critic is grance through the industry and is not self taught. How
very much a balance between creativity, precision, and do you feel about that?
originality. Which do you feel is most important when
creating and marketing a perfume?
Now about you… what music do you like to listen to?
What do you feel is the most exciting implication that What was your last dream?
your work may have?
Please name your favorite Latino artists?
What topics or ideas are you currently researching?
If you were not a perfumer, what would you be doing?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
What are the most brilliant perfume(s) you have Having worked with both independent perfumers like
smelled?
Divine, Keiko Mecheri, and Parfums DelRae and
more mainstream companies like Avon and Baby Phat,
Thoughts on the influence on blogging and per- can you compare and contrast your experiences.
fumery?
Ok, the hot button of the decade….IFRA?
A sneak ‘sniff’ on what you are working on?
You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-roux and
most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are
the challenges of two or more great noses in the
kitchen so to speak?
Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview - Oct. 27
What was it like to work with Kimora Lee Simmons
who created Baby Phat?
When we asked Mr. Ferragamo if he was enjoying
being part of the fragrance world?
Your proudest moment as a perfumer?
We asked about the clearness, the clarity of the fra- What fragrance and perfumer influenced you the
grance itself. We wondered if the absence of color was most?
a conscious choice?
What is the fragrant thread that connects all your
Then we talked about the type of person who is a scents, no matter the price or the materials used?
Ferragamo customer. "It's a man or woman who likes
to be up to date but has a classic lifestyle and doesn't Favorite fine artists, how do they influence you?
look for extreme trendy fashions, someone despite the
ups and downs of fashion, she or he are always behav- When you need to escape where do you go
ing in the same way?
What are your favorite hot spots in NY and Paris?
Coming back to the present, we asked Mr. Ferragamo
why he thinks designer fragrances are so popular?
What’s your favorite adult beverage? Tequila and soda
or vodka soda with lime.?
Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier - Oct. 28
Your favorite music?
Where did you grow up? Can you share with our readers some stories from your childhood, and what you Do you have any phoebias?
were like as a kid?
Is the ‘nose’ now more important than the brand?
Talk about your decision to become a perfumer?
What distinguishes your ’scentsibilities’ from your
You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-Roux and colleagues?
most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are
the challenges of two or more great noses ‘in the Many perfumistos wring their hands at change, i.e. the
kitchen’ so to speak?
discontinuation or reformulation of a vintage scent due
to regulations or other factors…. Do you think one
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should disclose these changes?
How do you create many fragrances without duplications?
How are you bridging 20th century perfumery with
21st century technology?
Is there fashion in fragrances and how is it created?
Raw materials vs. synthetics. Which are the most chal- How long did it take you to become a good perfumer?
lenging to work with why?
Is there something that can not be learned, a talent,
What is your opinion of the ‘prophecy’ that within 10 maybe?
years there will be a small death in perfumery, due to
depleted resources, and IFRA regulation. Is the Art of Does your sense of smell decrease after too much
perfumery, evolving or dying?
work?
What is your feeling about marketing fragrances to
men and to women, or do you believe that most fragrances can be shared. For example our reviewer Mark
Behnke, a strapping married man is so confident in his
masculinity he wears Feminite du Bois and your
Mythique.
Your three favourite ingredients?
Glamorous Inspirations - Nov. 14
Your top 3 fragrances?
Factors to keep in mind when selecting perfumes?
How do you tell cheap perfume from quality fragrances?
What are the hurdles you face as a perfumer? How do What's the worst thing that can happen to a perfumer?
you create ‘the smell'?
Interview With Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva - Nov. 15
What do you do when not creating a perfume?
How was your previous experience in Perfumery busiAny one smell you feel you should have created or ness before joining ABIHPEC?
could have done better?
How did you start as president of ABIHPEC?
Your inspiration for ‘Glamour'?
What is the role of ABIHPEC and how is its relationWho, according to you, will choose “Glamour”?
ship with the associated companies?
What is the secret of creating a unique and captivating Tell us how ABIHPEC started to perform its role in the
fragrance?
industry and reach what the association is today.
Do you need inspirations while creating a fragrance? Was the tax burden already a big challenge?
What is your muse?
Across the last years, how has the Brazilian consumer
Do you have a favourite fragrance among those you reacted to the development of the perfumery market?
have created?
In 2009 consumer habits in perfumery were not affect103
Glen O. BRECHBILL
ed, Brazilians continued to consumer even in the glob- rich kid playing with perfume. Almost 3 years later,
al financial crisis and our market share numbers are your fragrances are outselling and outperforming so
very relevant in global participation. Could you please many others... do you feel vindicated?
comment about it?
I noticed the last time we met you were drinking
Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci - Nov. 20
Veuve Clicqot champagne with ice… What’s with the
ice?
Rebonjour Romano…Where were you born and
please share with us some memories of your child- Please share with us how you Lou Doillon, the daughter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is now the
hood?
‘muse’ of Calamity J?
What is your first olfactive memory?
No top notes…why?
Growing up a Ricci, was there any pressure put on you
What is in store for 2010? At one time you suggested
to follow in your grandfather's footsteps?
breaking into fashion design like your great grandmother or will you continue on your path in perWhere did you study perfumery?
fumery?
The burning question: why did you name the compaAn Interview with Dominique Durbana - Nov. 22
ny Juliette has a Gun?
Why are your fragrances are called ‘episodes’?
Dominique, I must tell you, you have a fascinating
web site and blog. You have articles on all sorts of fasPlease talk about the evolution of the brand from its cinating subjects as well as carry many products-I love
debut with Lady Vengeance to Calamity J)?
your web site. Tell us about what you have created?
When you hired Francis Kurkdjian for Miss Charming Please talk to us about your work in olfactory
and Lady Vengeance, explain the collaborative research?
process. Was Francis a ‘gun’ for hire?
Please tell us about olfactory psychology. I understand
You were a race car driver and also someone who that this is also one a favourite topic?
enjoys the night life. When did you say, “OK, now I
am ready to be a serious perfumer”?
Tell us about the natural scents, of which you are surrounded with; and in your words “you live
Are you and Erwin Creed, (the seventh generation of immersed”?
the House of CREED), still good friends? How did
you meet?
I loved your section and article on Ambergris and I
understand you have Ambergris tincture available and
Please share with us how you met Lou Doillon, the that they are samples available of raw ambergris?
daughter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is
your ‘muse’ for Calamity J? When you first launched This is all the more surprising that pheromone play a
Lady Vengeance, (and I was there), I remember there primary role in the reproductive process of all living
was a lot of blah blah blogging that you were just a species.
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This is what I call “three-dimensional perfumery”.
How does your poetry link to your paintings and
scents?
I also loved the olfactory images from your “Scents of
the Soul”. Tell us about that if you please?
Who do you see wearing a couple of your key scents?
Please tell us your thoughts about the ethics and phi- What are some of the most significant scents either by
losophy of the profession?
other perfumers, or essential oils throughout history?
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot - Nov. 26
composed?
What’s the philosophy behind your brand?
Had you always had a fascination with perfume?
What is the most amazing thing you have ever
smelled?
How should one know if a scent suits them?
Is there anything else you would like our readers to One won’t know, one will feel it. Spray the perfume on
know about fragrances that we have not discussed?
your skin, close your eyes and ask yourself: does this
scent smell like a woman or man? What I am, or I
Perfumer Stephane Humbert & the Art - Nov 22
want to be is this the message I want to send to others
about me?
What do you see when you smell your scents?
Your thoughts on celebrity fragrances?
How does the process of creation relate to painting?
Do you have a specific fragrance memory that stands
How is the art of creating perfume similar to the art of out in your mind?
painting?
Which fragrance do you wear or is there a scent you
Do the colors of your scent relate to the colors you see always come back to?
when you smell them?
Which Le Labo creation are you particularly proud of?
How do you choose the ingredients?
Who, what or where inspires you?
Do you know that colours you will see when you creWhat are you working on at the moment?
ate a scent?
How do you create a scent based on that?
Your ultimate getaway destination?
Your scents are linked to specific words; what made Favourite restaurant?
you choose those words?
Latest obsession?
Explain your creative process step by step?
Proudest career moment?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Best piece of advice you’ve learnt so far
Please try to describe what your vision for Wode Scent
and Paint?
Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen - Nov. 30
Is perfumery an Art or an art?
Hi Geza… my unexciting opening question: please
tells us about your childhood and where you grew up? What is the difference between creating fragrances
without a brief and on your own?
What olfactive memory is the most powerful for you?
What is the most challenging raw material for you
Has it influenced your perfumery?
work with, why?
How important is blogging to shaping consumers'
I have heard you are working on a new collection for
knowledge of perfumery?
an Indie brand, please share what you can?
Describe your personality in less than 20 words?
How to Sniff Out Fragrances - Dec. 1
What fragrance do you wish you created?
What’s it like to possess that kind of sense?
Do you prefer synthetic over natural ingredients?
Isn’t that sort of like Michael Phelps telling me
What do you think of the future of perfumery in the Olympic gold is just a few swim-team practices away?
21st century?
A Green Interview - Jean Claude Elenna - Dec. 4
Why do you think this fragrance strikes such an accord
with people?
What does “a green scent” mean to you, Jean-Claude
Ellena?
What’s on your ipod?
How does being surrounded by greenery inspire you?
Which artists inspire you?
What’s your favorite “green” ingredient?
Also how have your travels effected you personally
and your perfumery?
Is there a “green thread” connecting the different fragrances in the Jardins d’Hermès collection?
Each time you travel you bring back some memory of
new sensual experiences, that is the most valuable, as Interview with - François-Raphaël Balestra - Dec. 6
it inspires me to create new perfumes?.
Vous rêvez de créer un parfum?
If you weren’t a perfumer what would you be?
Connaissez-vous le langage du parfumeur?
You have worked mostly with edgy companies,
Diesel, FCUK, biehl parfumkunstwerke and Wode. Thierry Wasser - An Interview - Dec. 8
What attracts these companies to your style of perfumery?
Thierry Wasser, besides yourself, who would you have
liked to be?
106
Your first encounter with fragrance?
If you could bring anything back with you, what
would that be?
Your favorite fragrance components?
Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview - Dec. 26
Where and when did the two of you meet and marry?
Does Caroline work for a competitor?
What fragrance by a different designer do you wish
you had designed?
Do you talk about work at home, or is that off limits?
Which Guerlain fragrance would you like to have Is there any sense of rivalry between you and do you
designed?
ever collaborate on projects?
Which perfumer(s) style do you admire?
If perfumery is an art born of an inherent gift as many
agree that it is do you think that your gift was always
there, just waiting to be tapped? Was there an “aha”
moment?
In your view, is perfumery more art or more science?
A travel destination that you really enjoy ?
A fashion designer you particularly enjoy ?
When you set about your work, where do you look for
inspiration?
Is it hard to follow in the footsteps of a whole genera- When creating a fragrance, what do you hope to
tion of Guerlain perfumers?
accomplish?
And do you think you’ll be able to bring something That said and given that client needs must be met
new, a change of style, to Guerlain’s fragrances?
what, in your personal view represents the true value
of a fragrance…commercial success or the pure and
How do you envisage the future for fragrances?
absolute beauty of a perfume (knowing, of course, that
the two are sometimes compatible and sometimes
Your own little luxury?
not)?
If it was possible to travel back in time to any particu- What do you most enjoy about your work?
lar century and decade of your choice to meet your
number one inspirational Perfumer?
Among perfumers, past and present, whom do you
admire and why?
What specific questions would you want to ask?
And which, in your view, are the greatest perfumes the
If you could team up together in that time, who would classics of all time?
you like to co-create a fragrance for?
Given the number of fragrances that launch each year
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
and the short attention span of the consumer do you ciate your creative and technical works in practical
think that any new fragrance has a chance of real way?
longevity of becoming a forever classic like Shalimar
or Chanel No 5?
Do you think you have an “olfactive signature” on
your perfume creations?
What do you think sent the industry on this downward
spiral, and what can be done to reverse the trend?
Something that is like a fingerprint of Olivier Gillotin?
Is there a “wish fragrance” in your future; one you When you are creating a fragrance, what is the most
dream of and hope to create?
challenging issue you deal with in?
In the process of creating fragrances for fashion
designers Hugo Boss, Armani, Calvin Klein and Ralph
Lauren are some you’ve worked with do you study the
design aesthetic, or particular style, of the designer,
and to what extent do the designers participate in the
actual creation of the fragrance?
As a master perfumer and also a Vice President with
an outstanding background in one of the leading companies in Flavors and Fragrances, what were the main
initial achievements you had in your career you think
were important to establish you as a legendary perfumer and a renowned fragrance executive?
And speaking of fragrances you’ve created, we know Making fragrances now is very different from how
that you’re a winner of both American and European was in the past mainly because there is few time to
FiFi® Awards. Tell us about them
perfumers to perfect their creations against the strong
demand of the recent market. With hundreds of releasWe all have very distinct “scent memories”; aromas es per year are on shelves, some of them are easily forthat evoke vivid recollections of times, places or gotten over the years. Givaudan has created iconic
events of the past. What are yours?
unforgettable fragrances as Thierry Mugler Angel,
Robert Piguet Fracas, etc, what you think it essential
On another, more personal, note, we know that you for perfumers to create winning fragrances nowadays
have two sons. Have either of them inherited your pas- which become modern classics for the present and the
sion or shown any interest in fragrance?
future?
And what’s your own favorite smell?
By the way, do you think the IFRA regulations of
some materials will impact on how perfumers create
Can you tell us something about you that nobody their fragrances, that is, their creativeness on perfume
knows?
making will be affected?
Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Dec. 30
In general, what you think about this issue?
What are your deepest fragrant memories? Do you
think they have influenced what you are today as a
Where are your main sources of inspiration and/or perfumer?
general influences to make fragrances?
Do you have a fragrance dream?
How is your style in perfumery, I mean, how you assoWhen did your love for perfumery begin?
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Some raw material you would like to explore on a fra- An Interview with David Ruskin - Jan 8
grance, some accord would you like to develop and/or
some personal focus on fragrance creation you envi- Hello David, tell us about yourself.
sion from now to the future and never had the opportunity to work on?
What would you create if you had no brief?
In general lines, how do you contribute actively to Are there any downsides of being a perfumer today?
these initiatives?
What are the fun parts?
Now a very special question: What is the scent that
expresses yourself, your essence?
Are you looking forward to accepting briefs from a
community of fragrance lovers from around the
Beautiful scented memory! And now, a classic ques- world?
tion for a perfume industry professional. How do you
envision the future of perfumery?
Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy - Jan. 12
2010
An Interview with Mike Parrott - Jan. 6
Pierre Guillaume: PARFUMERIE GENERALE = a
play on my initials PG PIERRE GUILLAUME, and
also because I am coming from the chemical industry,
it was a twist about the idea of luxury?
Mike, how did you first get into the perfume industry?
Where did you grow up and what is your first olfactive
What would you create if you had no brief or restric- memory?
tions?
First olfactive memory?
What are the downsides of working in the industry
today?
What fragrance did you mother wear?
How do you feel about creating a fragrance? They're What did you do before you were a perfumer?
a very discerning bunch!
Why are your fragrances numbered?
An Interview with Beverly Bayne - Jan. 6
Most of your fragrances evoke ideas and stories Eau
Hello Beverley, how did you get into perfumery?
de Circe, Querelle, Jardin de Kerylos, Aomassai,
Musc Maori, Une Crime Exotique, just to name a few.
What are the challenges?
Which comes first the fragrance or the concept (a
place, material, character or time)?
If you had no brief, what type of fragrance would you
create?
What concentration of pure perfume is in your fragrances?
Are there any fragrances you wish you had created.
Which are eau? de parfums?
How do you feel about creating a fragrance?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Pierre, you number each of your fragrances on a scale What is next for you and for us?
that measures “sillage”, i.e. Coze has a lasting number
assigned to it of 5 on a scale of 1-5, please elaborate? An Interview with Mandy Aftel - Jan. 14
Can you explain the photo affinage process: how it is How has the human sense of smell evolved?
done, how it?affects the behaviour of substances in
perfumes, and to what extent it?contributes to your In what ways have fragrances and perfumes impacted
perfumes' unique character?
world history? How important were aromatics to the
trade along the legendary Silk Road?
Why are some of your fragrances differentiated by the
name ‘Private Collection”?
What makes smell such a powerful sense?
Pierre, you call yourself a chemist, but perfumery is Why? What are the advantages?
much more than chemistry. How do you function as
both a chemist and a perfumer?
What are some of your favorite natural ingredients for
perfumes, and why?
Which of your six senses: touch, smell, taste, hearing,
seeing, and intuition guides you?
How do you go about creating a signature fragrance
for a person? What sorts of questions do you ask when
Pierre Guillaume: Seeing! Definitely.
you begin?
Please explain for our readers the meaning of In your book, Essence and Alchemy: A Natural
“Diolene” which is used in your flacons.
History of Perfume, you write that “as potent as it can
be, however, smell is the most neglected of our sensIf someone loves and is attracted to one of your fra- es.”
grances, say Iris Oriental, does that tell you anything
about their “chemistry”?
Why is that?
All 20 of your children your perfumes are special, but Will that trend change in the future?
is there one that is perhaps the most evocative of you
and your company?
Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview - Feb. 1
How do you define a great fragrance. A fragrance you How do you feel about being a Dior “nose”?
love?
What are the main characteristics of Dior perIn an interview several years ago you said "I have just fumes...what makes them unique?
one friend in the world of perfume, that’s Francis
(Kurkdjian)". What perspectives do the two of you Have you ever persisted in implementing your own
share today?
ideas at Dior…for a perfume you felt you absolutely
had to create?
Will you expand into home fragrances?
How do you (and the House) feel about the use of natDo you believe that fine fragrance is an art?
ural vs. synthetic ingredients is there a difference in
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quality?
out of you than it puts back in?
A primary ingredient he hasn’t yet mastered?
Advice to young, would-be perfumers?
In moving on to a discussion of perfumery itself, we From a philosophical point of view we asked, “nose,
wondered Is creating a perfume like creating a work of perfume creator, composer” how would Demacy
art?
describe himself?
And what is the phase of perfume design you like And, on a final note, what’s your favorite smell?
best?
Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen - Feb. 7
Are perfumers “the elite” of the beauty business?
Having created many perfumes, and major ones at
that, is there a fragrance you still dream of capturing? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What
are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characterisFrancois DemachyFor a creator, what is a “provoca- tics?
tive” fragrance?
Do you think that being a woman influences the way
Should there be harmony between a fragrance and its you create… and if so, in what way?
bottle?
Do you have any advice about how to apply perfume had created?
and how best to store it?
And why?
Which notes do you see as a major trend in 2009?
How do you envisage the future for fragrances?
And the perfume of tomorrow?
Do you have any hopes for the future?
An Interview with David Vaudd - Feb. 13
Which perfumes to you consider “key fragrances”?
Why did you decide to create your own line in this cliFrancois DemachyIt’s been said that in order to create mate?
a fragrance, one must have a woman in mind. What do
you think about that?
How long did it take for you to develop the collection?
Do you miss Grasse and your years of training and Why the Chypre?
apprenticeship?
What was your inspiration for the Vaudd Affair
Trilogy?
Do you sometimes wonder if your work takes more
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Glen O. Brechbill
An Interview with Alec Lawless - Feb 23
“What is the difference between organic, botanical and
natural perfumes?”
What makes your “Essentially Me” perfumes distinct?
DelRae Roth - an Interview - Feb. 28
So from the beginning of the use of synthetics in perA few key words that describe your personality?
fumery?
So do you use the synthetic replacements?
Aside from yourself, who would you have liked to be?
What about Ambergris? That can be found on the Your first encounter with fra-grance?
beach.
So what type of synthetics do you use and why?
Your favorite fragrance components?
The two main ideas which came into my mind when I
smelled your perfumes were “soft” and “complex”
What about the IFRA regulations and the coming Your favorite drink?
changes will they affect how you compose?
A travel destination that you really enjoy ?
Do you stick to those regulations?
Does it affect your work... does it make it more diffiA fashion designer (or boutique) that you particularly
cult?
appreciate?
Your perfume Souk, which I really enjoyed, has oppoAn artist whose work fascinates you?
ponax in it.
In the early part of the heart note there is a wonderful Which perfumer(s) style do you admire?
accord of cedar and sandalwood. Often I smell cedar
used to “pad out” a sandalwood note but here the cedar The fragrance you wish you had designed?
seems to be the feature and the sandalwood is in supHow do you envisage the future for fragrances?
port. It is a beautiful note can you tell me about it?
In your book, you mention Roudnitska, the legendary Do you have any hopes for the future?
perfumer. Are there contemporary perfumers you
Your own little luxury ?
admire?
Green Goddess - Mandy Aftel - Feb. 26
Francis Kurdjian - An Interview - March 4
“Why is it you choose to work only with natural, We read that, for a festival in the fall of 2006, and for
Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes of the following two
botanical or organic fragrances”? and
summers, you were called upon to fragrance the foun112
tains at Versailles how did that come about?
time classics?
Along with your extraordinary work in olfactive performance art, we know that you’ve created fragrances
for Lanvin, Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Dior,
among others. Now that you have your own shop and
your own fragrances, will you continue to create fragrances for others?
Iindustry studies and numbers - indicate that the ranks
of “lapsed fragrance users” are growing each year.
What do you think is the reason and what can be done
to reverse this trend?
Given the circumstances, what do you see as the major
fragrance trends of the next few years?
That said, what would be your most memorable fragrance experience?
Pursuant to that, what do you see as the major contribution of The Fragrance Foundation to the success and
When was it that you actually decided to become a future of the industry?
perfumer - did your background or family history
influence your career choice? And once you had On a personal business note,how many fragrances are
decided to become a perfumer, where did you train?
launching at Bergdorf and what has been the consumer
response to your boutique there and the shop in Paris?
From a philosophical point of view, how would you
describe yourself…nose, perfume creator, composer? What are your plans for the future? And do you think
you’ll expand distribution of your fragrances beyond
And do you think that creating a perfume is like creat- Bergdorf’s and/or will you open a Francis Kurkdjian
ing a piece of music, a sculpture or a painting?
boutique in the U.S.?
In your work as a perfumer, what inspires you?
And so when you were honored as a Chevalier des
Arts et des Lettres by the French minister of culIs there a particular scent, or aroma, you dream of capture,what did that mean to you personally and to your
turing in a perfume?
family?
Is there an ingredient or raw material that eludes you An Interview with Andy Tauer - March 7
that you haven’t yet mastered?
Are you a peace-nick? Please explain.
When you create a fragrance, do you envision the bottle/package as well?
Are you a poet? would you share a line (just one perhaps?)
If you could create a fragrance for anyone in the
world, who would that be…and why?
I’ve been dying to use the words Pongee and Poncho
in a sentence. would you write a sentence with these
What’s your own favorite smell and why?
words and make it relevant to you?
Among perfumers, do you have any role models and, Marie Petit - Naming Consultant - March 20
if so, who would they be?
What should we call our latest fragrance?
And what perfumes, in your mind, are the great, all
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Glen O. Brechbill
With the ever-increasing number of new fragrances, Do you work in a specific department if yes, is there a
how do brands manage to find new names that are cre- mix of speciality staff?
ative, attractive and… available?
What other departments/professions do you work with
What do you think about foreign brands that choose e.g. production, marketing, sales?
French names for their creations? Do they sell better?
Does it make customers think the brand is French?
What made you choose your current job and why in
the cosmetics industry?
Can’t finding a name that works all over the world get
tricky sometimes?
What are the most exciting aspects of what you do?
Could you give us some examples of product names Are there any smells or scents you don’t like?
that would have been ill-chosen for an international
item, or even any slip-ups made by big brands?
Is there anything you don’t really enjoy in your day-today work?
In fragrance and cosmetics, are there products or
ranges whose names change depending on the coun- Are there any specific skills that are essential to have
try?
in the job you do?
What about the other way around, do you know any Are you careful about what you eat to preserve your
names that refer to different products in different sense of smell?
countries?
Could someone come into your job straight from
Liza Zorn - An Interview - March 22
school?
What skills/qualifications would they need?
Did you receive any special training either before or
during your first year of working in your current role?
Did your previous job prepare you for this one?
Suggest a fragrance for our readers and your fans.
Is there anything you wished you had studied or done
differently when you were younger?
Meet Arthur Burnham - March 29
At school what did you think you would do for a living? For instance, did you envisage your sciences
What is your job title and what are the main charac- being used in the cosmetics industry?
teristics of your day-to-day work?
What subjects are you glad you studied?
What area of science ( if any ) do you use in your curWere there any that were not immediately obvious as
rent job?
useful to your career but now are proving helpful, e.g.
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languages?
How was class with master perfumer Isabelle Doyen?
What was she like as a teacher?
With your skills and qualifications, what do you hope
to achieve next in your career?
There are chemists, and there are alchemist which are
you?
Alexander Lee - A Perfume Student - March 30
How have other Arts influenced your art?
Alex, what is it like to be an Asian -American perfume student in Paris?
What is the difference between an aroma and a perPlease describe a day in the life of Alexander Lee and fume?
a typical semester at the ISIPCA
Life is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett - April 13
When did you know you wanted to be a perfumer and
where did you grow up?
What was your first memory related to a scent?
So, tell us is true .. for fragrance inspiration from a Do you do dedicate a perfume to certain emotions or
young age it was ‘cherchez la femme’?
states of mind?
You were fascinated by fragrance prior to your formal Was there a prominent teacher leading you to a maseducation, can you please share with us what inspired tery?
you to pursue a career in fragrance?
Are there some exercises involved in keeping your
You have a special place in your heart for Jean- Claude level of integrity?
Ellena. Is he your role model?
Can tell me little bit more about the process of workWhat fragrance do you wish you created?
ing "with the plant energy".
What are your favorite raw materials?
How would you describe your "French gene"?
Have you created a fragrance yet?
How does your Divine Collection satisfy all the senses?
SyntheticDo you read blogs or go on forums?.
According to NPD, among the best selling fragrances
in the United
States
for 2009
are Coco
Mademoiselle, Chanel No.5, Beautiful by Lauder, and
Cool Water- all can be bought just about anywhere.
Yet, many bloggers and perfumistos chase the obscure,
unusual, the new, and the the hard to find. How much
influence do we really have in purchasing power in
your opinion?
To what extent do you research the market before
launching a new perfume or a collection?
What is wrong with the way perfumes are presented
and sold to the public?
In the entire perfume industry, what percentage of perfumers is natural. Is there a movement or a trend that
will grow and eventually revolutionize the industry?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
The trend seems to be toward using less chemicals and
more natural essential oils in our scented products.
According to the National Academy of Sciences; over
90% of chemicals used in fragrance today are synthetic and out of the 4,000+ chemicals used for fragrance,
per the FDA, 95% of these chemicals are derived from
petroleum. That is an alarming fact. I can't imagine
what this is doing to our bodies. More cancer? More
lung conditions?
The people side seems at least as important as the
ingredients themselves. Could you explain your connections with the local populations?
So what do the local populations stand to gain from
your work?
Do your clients and business partners go along with
your methods?
Can you outline the difference in technologies used in Which ingredients inspire you the most?
commercial perfumes and in your collection?
Can you tell us a little more about Australian sandalHow long do you typically work on a perfume?
wood: the main concept, what it brings in olfactory
terms and how it is grown by TFS and Mount
When you create a perfume, do you look more in the Romance?
future or in the past?
Which items on the market can we find your ‘ecoWhat specific journeys gave you memorable experi- friendly’, sustainable and fair products in?
ences?
What are your plans for the future?
Can you please describe the role of California for your
professional life as perfumer?
Interview with Ayala Sender - April 27
Do you still learn?
You also have perfumed tea with some of the fragrances? Tell us about that.
Do you still get surprised by a combination of scents?
Your course in Natural Perfumery sounds amazing,
With spring comes unfortunately the season of aller- has that been successful? It looks very through and I
gies. Can you recommend a quick aromatherapy rem- wished I lived closer to you as I would sign up immeedy for our readers?
diately but you do also offer a Correspondence Natural
Perfumery Course, correct?
Can you tell us about your workshops in aromatherapy?
Your web site offers all sorts of ways to purchase fragrance, there are different types of sample packages
Stéphane Piquart - Ingredient “Sourcer” - April 20
available as well as perfumed pendants, poison rings,
roll ons, travel size perfumes, gift sets, bottles, Crème
Stéphane Piquart, how would you define your profes- Parfum Silver Pendant and parfume Parfum Extrait,
sion?
how on earth do you keep up with it?
How did you get into it?
So what do you actually do on a day-to-day basis?
Is there anything else you would like our readers to
know about you or your fragrances that we have not
discussed?
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Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you? You opened Good Judy in 2008, but how long had you
been blending before that?
What are the most popular fragrances out of your line?
And what specifically attracted you to the art of makWere you ever inspired by any one perfumer?
ing perfume?
One of your most intriguing lines for me is the Curio
Shoppe, in which you've made scents in homage to
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever such mythic curiosities as Jacob's Ladder, jackalopes,
smelled?
and gazing mirrors. What's the draw of these and other
legendary and often frightening objects?
Which famous fragrance do you wish you had created?
I've enjoyed reading the write-ups that accompany
each of the curio scents, in which you quite literally
Why do you think so many women and men are part take the reader on a tour of a dusty curiosity shop.
of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and Let's talk about the intersection between perfume and
natural trend?
creative writing. What do each lend to one another?
Please talk to us about your work in olfactory research. Since you opened Good Judy, you've offered a line of
scents that pays homage to anime and manga genres
Tell us about the natural scents, of which you are sur- and tropes from magical girls and bishounen to yaoi
rounded with; and in your words “you live and yuri or manga featuring male and female couples,
immersed”?
respectively. How did this line suggest itself to you,
and what smells good about these art forms?
Please tell us your thoughts about the ethics and philosophy of the profession.
A few years ago, you had a line of perfumes based on
various "punk" genres: diesel, cyber, steam. What
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve became of this line, and will we see something like it
composed?
again?
You've taken inspiration from a number of countries,
cultures, myths, and traditions for Good Judy's cataWhat is the most amazing thing you have ever log. Can you talk a little about the process of researchsmelled?
ing and developing a scent from a culture or society
that isn't your own, and the burdens that doing so
Is there anything else you would like our readers to entails?
know about fragrances that we have not discussed?
In just two years, you've gone from exclusively blendInterviewing Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato - May 3
ing perfumes to making candles, bath salts and lotions,
and even diffuser charms. What prompted you to
Good Judy is such a unique name for a perfumery. move into these areas?
What's the story behind it?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
L’Osmothèque - Preserving the Past - May 4
And how do you feel about the use of natural vs. synthetic ingredients and is there a difference in quality?
What is this L’Osmothèque?
What is its purpose?
Is there an ingredient that eludes you…that you
haven’t yet mastered?
Where is it going?
Who comes to L’Osmothèque?
That said, what advice would you give to would-be
perfumers?
Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview - May 3
And what do you see as the perfume of tomorrow?
Speaking of the FiFi® award, what was your inspiraReturning to the subject of the FiFi® Award, we asked
tion for A Travers Le Miroir Thierry Mugler?
Dadier what is the importance of The Fragrance
Can you share with us some of the other fragrances Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire Award?
you’ve created?
And what does winning the Perfume Extraordinaire
For you, is creating a perfume similar to creating a Award of The Year mean to you and to Mane?
work of art?
And, on a final note, we wondered what’s your
Given that thought, which perfumes, in your mind, are favorite smell?
the great, all time classics or works of art?
Interview with Tanja Bochhnig - May 16
I am curious to know if there is something special
And is there a particular scent, or aroma, you would about the month of April, because to me it is a very
special month. My son was born in April because I
love to capture in a perfume?
wished him to. It is the most beautiful month in Israel,
And what would be your most memorable fragrance where my son was born. It is also the month of Aries,
which was a perfect combination with Leo. So, is there
experience?
any story behind the name?
From a philosophical point of view, how would you
Where does your interest in fragrances come from?
describe yourself…nose, perfumer, composer?
Do you think perfumers are the "elite" of the fragrance Childhood memories are so nice! Especially when we
remember them vividly with the scents related to
business?
them! Do you have a special one?
Turning to the art, skill and science of perfumery, we
asked, how does chemistry affect your art and how I see that your parents had a lot to do with it than?
important is formal chemistry training in the overall
I remember my mom had Joy in her closet. I also
education of a perfumer?
remember Fidji and Opium. Do you remember your
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first fragrance?
Really?
previous experience, say in aromatherapy or other
related business that deals with scents, or are they
completely untrained with little odor recognition and
simply like the idea from an intellectual standpoint?
That is so interesting. Can you give my readers one
example?
It has often been said that not everyone can become a
‘nose’, with the capability of discerning and identifyHow exactly did you get involved with Natural ing thousands of different scent molecules. What
Perfumery?
stages of development do you think your perfume
training gives a student in developing this ability, and
And how did you develop your skills from a personal what is your opinion about this somewhat limiting
experience and need?
statement based on your experience working with
developing a student’s abilities?
What is the idea behind your brand?
I’ve often felt that it takes time and certainly hard
You also have a special like related to Yoga right? Can work to establish a vocabulary that intellectually
you tell me a little bit about it?
describes the myriad senses, thoughts and feelings that
come into play when working with aromatics. What
We all know that you have a new born in your life. advice can you give to prospective students or even
How does motherhood affect the life of a perfumer?
the layperson who wants to embark on understanding
odors and articulate them well?
Interviewing Justin Crane - May 18
Smell consciously, and study and do. The first step
You’ve been quietly pursuing your aromatic art for to building a full aromatic vocabulary is to train onesome time, what or who have been your greatest influ- self to smell consciously, every day, and write down
whatever thoughts come through, no matter how
ences and why?
strange they may be. Not everyone does this conscious
If you could pick the 10 most important aromatic smelling thing, but as a perfumer, I feel it’s extremely
important to mentally acknowledge every scent and
ingredients, what would they be and why?
think about how the scent makes me feel.
How much do you rely on actual textbooks and how
much of your teaching comes from personal experi- Do you feel that you are somewhat limited in an online
mentation? If you could split these into percentages, course study and that some aspects might be better
understood in a classroom setting, and how do you
how would this be reflected?
overcome any barriers this might present?
Those who practice natural perfumery are beginning
to shy away from traditional perfumery training. Is it Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes - May 25
because so much emphasis is put on synthetics, and
what are the factors that have spurred those working Tolaas is in town “for only a few days, collecting
with naturals to seek or create perfumery training that scents that represent the neighborhoods of Kansas City
focuses exclusively on natural ingredients?
and sending them back to her lab in Berlin for analysis.” To what end? To “create a smell tour of our city.”
Do you find that most of your students come with a
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
Simple minds might ask, can’t one create a smell How do you feel about the state of contemporary
tour just by walking around with a notebook?
'commercial' fragrance? Will the rise of niche and boutique fragrance force change to the landscape?
What does the “analysis” in her “lab” add?
What do you think of the internet bloggers and the role
How does being obvious make the Folgers plant smell of the "perfume critic" who do not declare their subnonrepresentive of Kansas City?
jectivity? In what way do the same people help educate and champion fine fragrance?
But if local residents don’t know the smell, how representative of their town can it be?
So what part of Hidden Kansas City does Tolaas if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a comuncover?
mercial hit.
Interviewing Bertrand Duchaufour - July 7
You have created some of the most memorable fragrances of the past decade, including Timbuktu and
Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are you going to
collaborating with the Company's as its sole perfumer
going forward? Will you be doing other projects as
well?
Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with,
that you have not been able to create.
You are in the process of creating a new fragrance for
L’Artisan. Can you please give us a little ‘hint’ of what
to expect later this year?
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian & Lights - July 12
L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and Like an event, a fragrance is ephemeral yet leaves
not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some behind a lingering memory. How do you create a
of the regulations on raw materials effect how you cre- scent that will be remembered?
ate a fragrance?
You’ve traveled the world seeking inspiration but still
You told us you are devoted to the female world, yet consider Paris to be your home and heart. What are
most of your fragrances are non gender specific, your favorite places in the City of Light to dine, enterplease explain?
tain and enjoy?
Who is the woman you created Fleur de Liane for?
How would you describe your entertaining style?
What is she like?
What is your signature drink?
Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you What is your signature gift?
had created?
Tell us about an incredible event that you have attendWhy is their a lack of great masculines in the contem- ed recently?
porary market?
You are hosting a fantasy dinner party. Who are your
guests and what do you serve them?
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Perfumer’s Decrypt - Marie Wright - IFF - July 18
line?
Want a bottle of perfume fragrance with a virgin?
Are there any other products in the By Carina line?
How can I become a perfumer?
What is your advice for other young adults that want
to start their own beauty line?’
The United States less than five hundred perfumers.
What are your plans for your future?
How do you enter this industry?
Professional than the work of other chemicals to be I have to ask a simple question does anyone actually
purchase a product from this kid?
more close to life, right?
Your professional field strengths?
Does she really know what she is doing?
What a strange habit it?
Interviewing Françoise Donche - June 25
Odor with our psychological matter?
You are often called Givenchy’s “olfactologist” or
“fragrance expert.”
You prepared the strangest perfume or the smell that?
Can you tell us what that actually entails?
Is Virgin’s navel has a special fragrance?
Are you a kind of ‘olfactory orchestra conductor’?
Colleagues argue that you have been “climax” in the
end that is the taste?
The ‘Récoltes’ (Harvests) collection, which now
comes back to Givenchy every year, was your idea.
What is a good way to give you creative inspiration?
What is that collection’s position in the current marQ & A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas - July 22
ket?
How did you get started creating your own line?
And how are the ingredients that go into the different
fragrances selected?
What was the inspiration behind making fragrances?
How did you select each scent for your fragrance?
Do you have any anecdotes, or special memories about
the actual harvests?
How did you come up with each of the fragrance Is it difficult for the perfumers to communicate with
the house’s other departments when they’re talking
names?
about perfume?
Which scent is your favorite?
Do they use different vocabulary?
What makes By Carina scents special?
Is the perfumers’ olfactory and technical knowledge
What was the process of developing your fragrance an obstacle?
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Glen O. BRECHBILL
How do you help them understand each other?
What led you to this occupation, and where and how
did you start?
Do you take part in consumer focus groups testing
new fragrances?
Well, that was a pretty good way to begin ! So, can you
tell us one of the best memories you have of your
If so, how do you reconcile innovation and surprise, career, a particular moment of your career which carwhile at the same time giving consumers what they ried with it tremendous portent or a wonderful memowant?
ry for you?
Do you ever go to sales points in order to meet the On an entirely different subject, what are your favorite
sales team?
raw materials?
Or even customers?
Interesting… So the things that you developed for
BBW then had an impact on fine fragrance?
If so, does that provide feedback for creating futures
fragrances?
And are there those raw materials with which you
don’t like to work?
Which essences would you say are most characteristic
of Givenchy’s olfactory heritage?
Are there some notes or accords that, for you, equal
the idea of seduction more than others?
What about you personally, do you have any ingredients you’re addicted to?
Ann, on an entirely different topic, how do you see the
future of fragrances?
How do you see fragrances in the future? Do you have
any specific hopes for the future?
What are your hopes for the future, and what are your
concerns?
Let’s wind up with a personal question: what perfume(s) do you yourself like to wear?
So what do you think would be a first step toward a
positive future for fragrance?
Perfumery Professions - Ann Gottlieb - Aug. 10
Do you have any crazy idea of how to communicate
Of the many fragrances you have created over the fragrance to people something that you would love to
see happen?
years, of which are you most proud?
Well, that’s a credit to your ability to put yourself in And to conclude, what fragrance or fragrances do you
other people’s shoes… So, how would you define your usually wear?
occupation? What do you feel it is that you do? Or,
when you are at a cocktail party and someone asks you Like what?
“What do you do?” … what do you say?
Questions & Answers with Jacques Polge - Sept. 2
What would you say is the most thrilling aspect of
your job?
A Chanel executive once told me that of all the fragrances you've created at Chanel, Egoïste is your
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favorite. Is that true?
How did the adventure start?
Aroma M perfume is now sold worldwide. Have you
noticed differences in tastes in perfume in the United
States as opposed to in Japan or China? If so, do you
have any theories about why?
It still wasn't called Egoïste?
You are very connected to Japanese culture. If you
You once said fragrances were divided into two could visit any period in Japan’s history, which would
groups, those for cleanliness and those for sex. Where it be, and why?
does Egoïste lie?
Thierry de Baschmakoff, Designer of Bottles - Sept 20
Speaking of America, you've said Americans have
changed the fragrance business, making it more sani- Thierry, tell us a little bit about yourself, and about the
tized?
fragrance bottles you have designed?
What is the inspiration behind Bleu, your new men's Who are your influences as a creator?
fragrance, which has just hit stores?
Where do you find new ideas?
In the decades you've been a perfumer, what changes
have you noticed?
Which of the fragrance bottles you have designed are
you proudest of?
Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer - Sept. 9
And which one was the hardest to create?
You have an MFA in painting. How did your journey
from painting to perfumery come about?
How exactly do brands go about choosing a bottle
designer?
Your perfumes have Japanese themes and the packaging is beautiful. How did you develop your line of per- Do you compete with other designers the way frafumes, and why the emphasis on Japan?
grance designers do?
How did you develop your business, and what are the Or do you have an exclusive relationship with certain
challenges facing you as your business expands?
brands?
What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of A few years ago, in reference to alternative brands,
you often used to hear, “It’s not the bottle, it’s the fragrance… ”. Today it seems, au contraire, like alternaGeisha Pink had an event on QVC earlier this year, tive brands are focusing on the bottle more and more
which must have been exciting, as aroma M was the before they launch anything. As a designer, but also as
first niche perfume house sold on QVC. How did the the co-creator of the alternative brand The Different
partnership with QVC come about, and do you envi- Company, how do you feel about that?
sion partnering with QVC or a similar site again?
Do ecological considerations have greater weight now
Do you have any new fragrances or products planned? in clients’ choice of materials for new bottles?
123
Glen O. BRECHBILL
What other designer’s fragrance bottle do you wish thetic sources?
you had created?
You have written: "New extraction and olfactory phoWhat unusual new ideas for fragrance bottles (shape, tography methods allowing for living matter to be
texture, function, etc.) do you think we’ll see in the analysed and captured now give a say to common or
near future?
exotic plants, roots, flowers, wood or simply fruit,
until now totally mute to the perfumer." Are these
Interview with Pierre Guillaume - Sept. 26
methods able to derive extracts from lilies of the valley and gardenias, flowers that up until now have been
Any new perfume from Pierre Guillaume is always recreated primarily from synthetic materials?
regarded with great anticipation, but in this case
because there is also an entirely new range with a new Your new perfumes feature many unique and unfamilname, the anticipation is heightened by a bit of mys- iar plant materials, for instance pear, mango bark,
tery. Why did you decide to create a new brand in olive twigs, African red orris (Kegelia Africana) and
Are these examples of materials
addition to your already successful Parfumerie Zebrano wood.
derived from new extraction methods?
Generale?
Will you also continue to create new Parfumerie
Generale perfumes as well Huitieme Art perfumes and
Did you collaborate with the perfume critic Octavian continue to grow both brands simultaneously?
Coifan in the concept of perfume being an Eighth Art?
Roja Dove The Professor of Perfume - Sept. 29
Did Octavian also collaborate with you in other
aspects of these perfumes beyond the overall concept? Would you say there's a difference between a British
and a continental European perfumer?
In neurophysiology, "cyclopean perception" is a term
used to describe how the brain integrates two separate I'm aware of the releases of Buzz and Diaghilev.
flat images, one from each eye, in order to produce a What's next for Roja Dove Perfumes?
single image with three dimensional depth. Your new
Cyclops bottles seem to promise a similar integration. I ask him if the new scents have been given names yet?
Can you talk about two perspectives in perfume making that are integrated to produce depth in your new Interview with Kristen Dunagan - Oct. 1
perfumes?
We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve
Did you coin the term 'phyto-perfumery'?
Why did you decide to break free from the traditional
olfactory pyramid in these new perfumes?
How did you go about opening your business and what
do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncerPlease describe the difference in methods and in tain times?
results in creating odorant molecules with the biotechnology of phytoperfumery that derives from natural What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of
plant materials as opposed to using completely syn- running your business?
In what way will they differ?
124
What advice would you give to anyone contemplating How much latitude are you given in each fragrance's
becoming a perfumer?
creation?
I love the three fragrances in your line: Notes Fraîches, Which comes first in developing a perfume… the
Fleurs Blanches, and Épices Orientale. They are very sense of location , of place, or an idea?
different from one another, which gives your customers a nice variety to choose from. Can you give me Will that be your next perfume?
an idea of your creative process?
L'Artisan's Limited Editon Special Harvest series last
Do you start with a concept or fragrance note in mind? fragrance was Iris Pallida in 2007. Any plans to create
a new one?
What’s up next?
If so what would you choose as the soliflore?
Do you have a new fragrance in the works?
How much time do you spend traveling?
When someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance,
how do you go about creating it for your client? How What is your greatest passion outside of perfumery?
do you decide about the notes, how long does the
When I last saw you, you told me that and that you
would return to Africa. Have you?
Live from N.Y. its Bertrand Duchaufour - Oct 10
In our last interview you stated emphatically that the
Rebonjour Bertrand! Wow this is some set-up. Please blogging community must be responsible for the
tell me the story behind creating "Traversee du veracity of their information? It was quite a controversial a proclamation among some bloggers. Have you
Bosphore"?
changed your opinion?
When we last met, at the launch of "Fleure De Liane",
you had just joined L'Artisan Parfumeur in a new role, You are the nose behind Frapin's new fragrance . What
a different relationship which I called a "Perfumer-in- is the story behind it?
Residence". Can you please explain the exact nature of
What do you drink?
how you work with the Company?
You have had a very active role in reviving Whiskey. I love whiskey.
Penhaligon's. What is your charge when you reformuSo many perfume lovers feel a strong connection to
late or create an new Penhaligon's scent?
your fragrances. In your opinion, with so many fraWhat inspired you to compose Penhaligon's new scent grances on the market, why do so many of your perfumes resonate with the public?
"Sartorial"?
Did you buy a bespoke suit?
Do you remember the first fragrance you created?
Do you work from a brief?
In order to be considered Art, must a fragrance smell
good?
125
Glen O. Brechbill
Are you a Kindle person or a book person?
How did the adventure start?
What is the last movie you saw?
It still wasn't called Egoïste?
What is your idea of a perfect social evening?
Then there was the fabulous commercial...
Reflecting on your past journeys, is there a place that You once said fragrances were divided into two
you have been that you wish you could bottle?
groups, those for cleanliness and those for sex. Where
does Egoïste lie?
Anything you would like to tell me before the next
time we meet?
What is the inspiration behind Bleu, your new men's
fragrance, which has just hit stores?
My Favorite Nose - Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 13
In the decades you've been a perfumer, what changes
have you noticed?
And what smells stay with him from childhood?
His least favorite?
A Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen - Nov. 1
What perfumes does he admire?
Recipe for a Perfume - Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 14
Escentric O3 and Molecule O3 feature the synthetic
vetiveryle acetate. There are tons of vetiver fragrances, so why are these different?
The recipe for a great perfumer?
Take us through the creative process of 03.
How do you get inspiration for a new fragrance?
You've been a hot topic in the blogs lately, specifically that a niche perfumer ‘stole’ your formula for
Escentric02. True?
What do you look for in a great perfume?
Your most important tip in choosing a new scent?
An Interview with Jacques Polge - Oct. 27
Not only were its gender-bending scent and provocative name immediately, and forever, etched in our collective memory (particularly in France), but who could
forget Jean Paul Goude's gorgeously camp TV commercial, with its over-the-top Prokoviev soundtrack
and hysterical women shouting from balconies?
Speaking about Abroxan, which you featured as the
core of Escentric 02 in 2008; in 2010 it’s ubiquitous.
In your opinion, can a perfumer plagiarize or is the
scent a derivative.
You have worked with briefs (for example for Clive
Christian X and 1872 for men), as a collaborator, ie.
Wode, A Beautiful Mind: Intelligence and Fantasy and
solo as in your Escentric series. How does the process
differ and how does it affect your creativity?
A Chanel executive once told me that of all the fra- Escentric 01, with its overdosing of Iso E Super is on
grances you've created at Chanel, Egoïste is your its way to becoming a cult classic…worn by fashionistas, perfumistas, and celebrities like Will Smith. Did
favorite. Is that true?
you know that you were onto creating a fragrance that
126
really resonates with such diverse group of people You handpick many of the ingredients at Creed. What
worldwide?
does that entail?
Besides yourself, is there a contemporary perfumer Do you do much traveling?
you admire for risk taking?
Any tips for finding the right fragrance?
Of course one of your most 'famous' quotes is "who
wants to smell like Paris Hilton". In your opinion are Who are you favorite designers?
all celebrity fragrances vapid. Are there any you like?
Where do you like to shop in New York?
Again: who wants to smell like…?
How would you describe your personal style?
Ca Fleure Bon was one of the first to review Your
Beautiful Mind Series: Intelligence and Fantasy, an What are you saving up to buy?
opus to Christiane Stenger on March 26, 2010 (in the
first week we published)! Do you have plans for Part What should every man have in his closet?
2. Can you give us a hint as to who your next ‘beautiful mind' will be?
What's something you never leave the house without?
In light of the above, how did it feel to formulate a Interview with Jessica Buchanan - Nov. 8
scent called Pussy Galore?
'Must a fragrance smell good to be considered Art'?
Please describe your childhood olfactively.
What do you think?
What perfume did your mother wear?
Is there a work of art or literature you wish you could
bottle?
What were some of your most memorable experiences
at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery?
When I interviewed you last year you said if you could
be someone other than yourself, you would be a really Did you have a mentor in school?
cool lamp post… still true?
What is the back story of your first ‘commercial’ fraIf you could have dinner with any person/ or character grance Reglisse Noire?
fictional or real, alive or dead who would it be?
Actually, when I first wore your perfume, I thought it
Erwin Creed - An Interview - Nov. 2
was natural. What is the ratio of natural to synthetic
materials?
Did you always know you would join the family perfume business?
Favorite raw materials?
You're known to have rather adventurous hobbies.
Do you plan on staying ‘indie’? How did you decide
on this path rather than join a large fragrance compa127
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu - Nov. 19
ny as a nose?
Which perfumers work have influenced you the most? That’s one of many reasons why her bilingual, Parisbased blog, Grain De Musc, has generated a loyal
What was the last song you downloaded?
readership since she started it in May 2008. So it isn't
surprising that when I ask her for her views on the
If you could bottle a memory which would it be?
increasingly vexing issue of IFRA regulation, she opts
for a form of words that is firm yet relatively inoffenJSB: The scent of April rain and orange blossoms at 3 sive. The specific question that prompts the above
o’clock in the morning in Monaco.
response is focused on packaging: can she imagine a
time when perfumes will carry warning labels in the
If you could meet any perfumer who would it be (sic manner of cigarettes and products containing nuts?
:alive or deceased)
Sticking with IFRA, I ask her if she really believes
Hidden talent?
the situation is at a crisis. Is all this a storm in a teacup
or is it going to get worse?
Which of your six senses influence you the most?
You wrote in a relatively recent blog post that sillage
Where do you see yourself in five years?
has become a crime. Could you expand on that?
Your next fragrance? What are you working on?
It's probably fair to say that there's a proliferation of
perfume blogs at the moment. What do you think the
What does being a perfumer in the 21st century mean effect of this will be?
to you?
Many people keep going back to Grain De Musc
French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents - Nov. 12
because of your elegant prose and insightful reviews.
How long does it take you to write them?
How did you develop your sense of smell?
Are they written in English first?
Like wine, are there good years?
Your blog is also notable for the fact that you reliPutting those ingredients together is the hard part. Do giously respond to every single comment from your
you make mistakes?
readers. Is there a specific reason for that?
What are some of your favorite smells?
What can you tell us about the book you're writing?
Which cologne do you wear?
But it's not a novel?
Creed doesn’t advertise or use celebrity endorsements. I know you'll be back in London again in midIs Creed like an estate wine?
December to run an 'Understanding Fragrance' course
that's open to applicants from outside the College.
So you are 29 years old and Creed is now your job.
When will you be a master perfumer like your father?
128
Could you tell us a little about it?
Interview with Sylvie Ganter - Nov. 24
I understand that December will be the first time the When Atelier Cologne debuted in March of 2010, it
course will have an extra day, so what will happen on was during a real slow down of consumer spending.
the new Day 4?
Was it difficult to get placement at retail?
Is there one scent that gets a particularly strong reac- Can you please talk about your years at Hermes and
tion from students?
how it has changed since Jean Claude Ellena came on
board?
Are you aware if any your students have made practical use of their newly-found olfactory skills?
How did you meet the three perfumers Ralf
Schwieger, Jérome Epinette and Cécile Krakower who
Would you say that there are some innate skills that are created the current line?
required for someone to be able to access the course?
Your relationship with Christophe is personal as well
So perfume appreciation really is something that can as professional. How do you balance the business and
be taught and learned?
the private life?
Have you found that some groups of people are more How do we balance business and private life?
'olfactorily starved' than others?
Our Managing Editor, Mark Behnke, wrote that there
So how did you develop your own olfactory autobiog- is a fragrance for everyone in the line. I agree. Can you
raphy?
explain to our readers the difference between a
cologne absolue and an eau de parfum, (besides the
Looking back at the last eleven months, what are your term), as both use comparable amounts of perfume
favourite perfumes of the year?
extrait?
And what sorts of perfumes can we expect in the In the press materials, it reads that the idea of Atelier
immediate future?
Cologne was ten years in the making. Can you explain
in detail when the idea occurred to you and the process
If the First Lady of France asked for your advice on of bringing the line to market?
which scent to buy for Monsieur Sarkozy, what would
you say?
Which Atelier Cologne do you wear? Christophe?
And finally, when you travel back to Paris, which per- Atelier coined the term "Cologne Absolue", now
fume would you like them to pump through the Maison Francis Kurkdjian also use it… I am curious
Eurostar's air conditioning to make the journey more how you feel about that
bearable?
I read a blogger article that called your fragrances a
Hasn't that been discontinued?
well-marketed line. As a marketer, I agree, but without
great jus no amount of marketing could create success.
What are the core values of your brand and why has it
struck such an 'accord' with so many perfumistas.
129
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Will you continue to create only colognes, soaps and ParfumWhat is the most important lesson you have
candles or will you branch out into perfume?
learned in your career?
Will the same noses continue creating your fra- Describe your creative process
grances?
What is your favourite fragrance?
What was your inspiration for Orange Sanguine?
What do you want your customers to take away from
What does Orange Sanguine conjure up for you?
your products?
Can you describe the key ingredients of Orange Who’s work do you admire in you field?
Sanguine and their properties/specificities?
Sweet Smell of Success- Dec. 24
What sets Orange Sanguine apart?
Did you always want to be a perfumer?
Thank you Ralf… back to Sylvie. Paris or New York?
The Creed label says 'From father to son since 1760'.
Favorite place to vacation?
Are men better perfumers?
The last book you read?
What made Creed come to Thailand?
What's the recipe for success?
First olfactive memory?
Can you give us an example of a new perfume?
Favorite meal?
What's special about the Millesimes range?
Addicted to…?
How do you feel about turning 30 this month?
Historical figure you wish you could meet?
How do you keep yourself young and healthy?
What is next for Atelier Colognes?
What folks don’t realize as a seventh generation perfumer he is creating exactly what his father, grandfather, greatgrandfather and so on created.
Behind a Fragrance - Linda Pilkington - Nov. 29
Have you always been passionate about fragrance?
He has a formulation book of past creations, and he
makes variations of it. All perfumers do this.
How did you get your start?
Between 1,000 creative artists, and add in the folks at
IFRA there is nothing new. I mean how many ways
When and how did you decide to start your own com- can one create an apple, or pear?
pany?
He travels the world seeking new aroma materials
Orris Noir Eau De ParfumOrris Noir Eau De when there aren’t any. The world’s fragrance ingredi130
ents are in two books that will never be available to the
fragrance industry.
All in all it’s a pretty exciting gig.
131
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Articles
Name of Article
Year
Pages
Perfume & Politics A Profile of Francois Coty
1930
Janet Flanner
Where are We Going
1969
Edmond Rudnitska
Perfumery & Marketing
1972
Edmond Rudnitska
The Novice & His Perfume Palette
1982
Edmond Rudnitska
1930 - 2006
The Challenge of Creativity
Bernard Chant
Concerning the Circumstances Favorable
1986
Hommage to Edmond Roudnitska
Edmond Rudnitska
Author Unknown
International Report; Making Fragrance from 3000 Odors
1988
Nancy H. Kreisler
Works In Progress - Nose Job
1989
Bruce Weber
About New York; Pros’ Noses Turn to ‘Royal Family
132
Douglas Martin
Why Some Perfumers Turn Up Their Noses
1992
Michele Loyer
Interview with Edmond Roudnitska
1993
Author Unknown
Computer Aides for “Noses”
Jacques Neher
A New Nose in Perfume
1994
Jean Rafferty
The World of Perfume - Allure of the Art
1995
Shanon L. Karppinen
Scent Solutions
1995
Pam Frost
Edmond Roudnitska: A Tribute
1996
Author Unknown
Nose Job
1997
Roy Rivenburg
Guerlain
Author Unknown
Synthetic Ingredients Increasinly Part of the Mix
Michele Loyer
Appearances; Hitting It On the Nose
May Tannen
The Bitter Sweet Smell of Success
1998
Kate Worsley
The Sweet Smell of Success - Meet Givaudan’s Perfumers
Lisa Chadderdon
A Lecture by French Perfumer - Guy Robert
Author Unknown
Armed Gang Raids Perfume Scion’s Home
Suzy Menkes
Perfume - The Essence of Illusion
Cathy Newman
Public Eye ( Nose ); Scents of the Everyday Locked In a Bottle
Phil Patton
Les Senteurs Perfumery Course
Author Unknown
Sniffing the Air With Oliver Creed
1999
Rick Marin
On the Trail Of a Scent
Anette Heist
Eau de Rain Forest
Marliese Simons
A Scent Is Not Easily Put Into Words
Author Unknown
133
Glen O. BRECHBILL
From a Perfumer’s Point of View
2000
Author Unknown
Counterintelligence: Snapshots in Scent
Alex Mitchell
IFF’s Space Research Results - Space Rose
Author Unknown
On the Scent of Something Different
Author Unknown
Attract at Any Price
2001
Sabine Chabert
Past Notes of Princely Passion
Author Unknown
Q & A - The Sense of Smell
Claiborne Ray
The Great Chef’s Aromas
Agnes Zamboni
French “Nose” Keeps Alive a Pungent Art
Caroline Brothers
The Home Front; A Nose With an Eye
Julia Szabo
Three Scent Specialist
Cheryl Moore
Interview With Michael Edwards
Grant Osborne
Fresh Heirs
Author Unknown
The Nose Knows - Jean Michel Duriez
Mathilde Gendron
Interview With Marian Bendeth
Grant Osborne
The Sweet Smell Of the Fragrance Industry
Vivien Jones
Interview with Perfumer Christin Nagel
2002
Bernard Bourgeons
How the Fragrance Industry Will Benefit from Internet
Michael Mane
An Interview with Perfumer - Alberto Morillas
Author Unknown
The Classical Perumers Apprenticeship
Arthur Burnham
Perfumer - How One is Trained
Author Unknown
A Nose - How a Perfumer is Selected
Author Unknown
134
Making Scents - Lorenzo Villoresi - Secrets of the Art
Author Unknown
Perfumers Design Fragrances No Nose Knows:
James Sherwood
Jacques Polge - An Interview
Anette Green
Making Scents
Silke Tudor
The Seven Artist
Sacre Nobi
Perfumery School Sniffs Out Talent
Jasmin Mueller
Awash with Perfume
Elisabeth King
Perfumers In a Stink - IFRA
Author Unknown
Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
The Perfume School
Adam Sage
The Day I Was Led By the Nose
Elizabeth Grice
The Color of Fragrance
Author Unknown
A Nose For It
Susie Rushton
Flowers in Orbit
Kate Melville
Creativity in Perfumery?
2003
Author Unknown
Scents & Sensibility - The Seven Deadly
Amy Bracken Sparks
Good Scents - Mandy Aftel
Bary Caine
In the World of Fragrance, Reputations Rest on the Nose
Enid Nemy
Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin
Author Unknown
Beauty - Take a Deep Breath & Smell the Summer
Catherine Turner
Follow Your Nose
Andrew Jefford
Indulging the Chemical Senses
Maureen Rouhi
135
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Creative Work of the Perfumer
Author Unknown
Perfume is Scent to India
Author Unknown
Sniffing Out Your Favorite Fragrance
Author Unknown
The Bloom of Yough
Cara Birnbaum
Evelyn Lauder: Beauty Queen
Author Unknown
Sniffing Out a Fragrant Future - School of Perfumery
Author Unknown
The High School Classroom - Interview with IFF Perfumer
2004
Author Unknown
Chemistry Perfumes Your Daily Life
Anne Dominique Fortineau
Follow Your Nose
Andrew Jefford
Career of the Month - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Pages From a Perfumers Journal
Gail Adrian
Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques Polge
Jeremy Josephs
The Seven Perfumers - Firminich Artists
Author Unknown
French Perfumers In a Stink
Author Unknown
Scents & Sensibility - Dr. George Dodd
Author Unknown
The Art of Conjuring Up a Fragrance
Vicky Elliott
Dollars & Scents
Reema Ameer
Custom Scents
Reema Ameer
Master Perfumer - Knows Perfect Fragrance is Heavenscent
Angela Allen
The Perfume Market - A Sweet Monopoly
Karoly Kiralyfalvi
Luca Turin’s Presentation to the BSP
Clio Vidal
Explores a World of Scent - to Find Our Sensual Selves
Isabelle Aurel
136
Michael Edwards Presentation to BSP
Clio Vidal & Helene Pizet
What an Artist Needs to Know to Formulate a Scent
Felix Buccilato
Celebrity Fragrances: What Price, Fame?
Author Unknown
Lorenzo Villoresi - Self Trained Perfumer
Marcello Aspira
Sure Sure Smells Good
Hemangini Gupta
Innter Global Fashion Trends - Lynn Harris
JCR
You Smell Delicious Enough to Eat - Fine Food Scents
JCR
The Pleasure Principal
Corinne A. Marasco
Perfume of the Rain Forest
Patrick Cunningham
Allergen Article: Could this Be the End for Natural Perfumes?
John Stephen
Head Space Technology - Industries New Perfumer
Samtha Critchell
Clive Christian’s Scent by Numbers
Tom Julian
Traditional Perfumers Smell Trouble as Technology Cracks Scents
Author Unknown
Genius With a Bottle
Author Unknown
Scent & the City
Author Unknown
French Master-Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents
Caroline Brothers
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite Novels
Thomas Pettifor
A Waft From the Past
Jennifer Laing
New Jersey & Company; A Chemist & the Lot
Kirsty Sucato
Scent of a Woman
Coeli Carr
Business Scents & The Art of Nose
Bronwyn Cosgrave
Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris
Geraldine Bedell
137
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han
Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo
Anastasia Hendrix
2005
Annick Vandorpe
Givaudan Perfumer Has Nose for Success
Natalia Dudareva
Making Sense of Smell
Zoe Cormier
Jean Patou, In-House Perfumer Visits Cayman Islands
Author Unknown
The Scent of the Nile - Jean Claude Ellena Creates New Perfume
Chandler Burr
Perfume Creation
Shawn Taylor
Caroline Sabas - Givaudan Perfumer
Author Unknown
Vive La Vie - The House of Roure
Author Unknown
An Interview with Luca Turin
Robin
Strong, Man
Author Unknown
Luca Turin’s Perfume Criticism
Chandler Burr
Of the Essence
Jennifer Steinhauer
The Chocolate Connoisseur
Author Unknown
Putting on the Spritz
Cat Callendar
Experiments in Smell at a Williamsburg Perfumerie
Rima Suqi
The Perfume Market - A Complex Monopoly
Karoly Kiralyfalvi
The Alchemist’s Life - Mandy Aftel
Anastasia Hendrix
Lui pour Elle
Luca Turin
The Fall Of the House of Guerlain
Luca Turin
Yes, but Which? - Classifying Fine Fragrances
Luca Turin
Nose Of the Week - Olivia Giacobetti
Author Uknown
138
The Perfect Floral
Luca Turin
Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears
Alex Kuczynski
Master Sniffer Clears Shuttle for Lift Off
Philip Sherwell
Doean Pickett - The Nose Knows
Clyde Park
The Unbearable Lightness of Scent
Author Unknown
Perfumer
Author Unknown
Scent Of the Young & Happy
Author Unknown
An Excellent Nose for Business
Auhor Unknown
Mark Constantine & His son Simon
Caroline Scott
Perfumery & the Art
Author Unknown
An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis
Robin
An Interview With Yann Vasnier
Author Unknown
Making Perfume: Why I Think I’m a Nose
Cathy Newman
Perfume Time
Luca Turin
Givaudan Reopens Its Perfumery School
Author Unknown
Natural Perfumery: Conversation with Mandy Aftel
Author Unknown
Edmond Roudnitska - Le Parfum
Author Unknown
Interview with Michel Roudnitska
Author Unknown
On the Rise: The Scent of Rubber Cement
Author Unknown
Pinay in Singapore Helps Make World Smell Sweeter
Candy G. Villanueva
Perfumer Germaine Cellier
Author Unknown
Fragrance Education
Author Unknown
139
Glen O. BRECHBILL
An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi
Robin
Nose Around, You’ll Find New Scents
Kathryn Wexler
Perfume Making: The Art of “Les Nex”
Author Unknown
The Fabulous World of Fragrances
Neesha C. Salian
Perfumer
Author Unknown
Perfume - The End of Civilization
Isabelle Rousseau
Francois Coty - Four Great Discoveries that Created a Modern Industry
Author Unknown
An Astrological Guide to Scent
Author Unknown
2006
Attract at Any Price - Givaudan “Rigor Refound”
Sabine Chabbert
The Nose Has Its’ Reasons
David Colman
Time In a Bottle
Kate M. Jackson
Aimé Guerlain ( 1834 - 1910 )
Author Unknown
Perfumers Lose the Scent of Profit with Oversupply
Carl Mortished
Perfume Notes - The End Of the Road For a Theory?
Tony Burfield
Professional ‘Noses’ Know the Sweet Smell of Success
Author Unknown
Most Expensive Perfumes
Sophia Banay
Beauty Beat: Goutal’s Lates Scent a Dream...
Ellen Groves
What Are Set to Be The Hotest Fragrance Notes in 2006?
Author Unknown
Sniffing Out New Markets
Jean Abelson
Perfumer Draws Fire Over a Scent Called ‘Peace’
Ruth La Ferla
Master Perfumer Jean-Calude Ellena
Mark Grischke
140
Capturing the Essence of New York in a Flask
Ruth La Ferla
Sophia Grojsman of IFF
Author Unknown
Chanel No. 5 & Other Perfumes Naming
Elico Martiano
Natural Perfumers
Author Unknown
A Fragrance for You, & Only You
Nia Elizabeth Shepherd
Interview with Perfumer Sophia Grojsman
Author Unknown
Channeling Chanel
Alison Kerr
A Conversation with - Jacques Polge
Annette Green
The Perfect Perfume
Author Unknown
Biologists Help Perfumers Capture New Scents
Author Unknown
Bottled Memories
Chin Mui Yoon
True To Its Creed
Author Unknown
An Interview with René Laruelle
Marlen Harrison
Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez is On the Scent of the Next Big Thing
Clifford Pugh
An Explorer Following His Nose
Alex Butterworth
The Life of a Perfumer
Author Unknown
A Sensory Superpower is Both a Blessing & a Curse
Christopher Elliott
Smell Leaves Hotel Guests Wanting More
Neil Curry
Top Dollar for Personal Scents
Author Unknown
Guerlain - The Master Perfumer
James Phillips
Only the Nose Knows the Scents of This Exhibit
Joann Loviglio
Making Scents of Branding
Luca Rino
141
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Tuberose For the Innocent & Timid
Author Unknown
Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger
Author Unknown
Is a Scent Like a Song? Qui & Non
Elaine Sciolino
Fishy Perfume of Sydney Gets Up Frenchman’s Nose
Georgina Safe
Fragrance: Scents of Direction
Author Unknown
The Aristocrat
Alison Kerr
Perfume Scoop! Ineke Perfumer San Francisco
Catilin Shortell
Creating Your Own Perfume
Jenny Callison
An Interview with Ayala Sender
Grant Osborne
Scent of Success
Judith Keeling
An Interview with The New York Times - Perfume Critic
Grant Osborne
‘Naomi’s is Hideous’
Lara Barton
Eau D’New York in the Summer
Beth Fertig
Francois Coty - Corsican Father of Modern Perfumiers
William Keyser
The Sweat Hog
Susie Rushtons
Perfumery as Artistry
Raquel Laneri
What’s the Best Way To Get Into the Scent Business?
Caroline Hayden
Fragrance - Travel Notes
Lesa Hannah
IFF’s Fragrance + Fashion Competition
Author Unknown
Roja Dove’s Aromatic Adventures
Ian McCurrach
The Fragrance Market is Saturated with Celebrity Scents
Author Unknown
IFF Prize
Author Unknown
142
Annie Buzantian - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Ilias Ermenidis - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Harry Fremont - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Annick Menardo - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Alberto Morillas - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Thierry Wasser - Perfumer - Firmenich
Author Unknown
Carlos Benaim - Perfumer - IFF
Author Unknown
Loc Dong - Perfumer - IFF
Author Unknown
Sophia Grojsman - Perfumer - IFF
Author Unknown
Christophe Laudamiel - Perfumer - IFF
Author Unknown
Bethan Cole: The Sybarite
Bethan Cole
Sweet Smell of Success - Roja Dove
Alison Kerr
Artisian Natural Perfumers Guild
Author Unknown
Lets Talk About Naturals
Author Unknown
Ann Gottlieb - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Fragrance - Revival of the Fittest
Emma Reinhold
Copyright Protection for Perfumes
Thomas G. Field Jr.
IFF Success Stories - Sophie Labbe
Author Unknown
There’s No Common Scents In Perfumier’s City Outlet
Lynn Gilmour
Spotlight: The Precise Smell of Success
Caroline Brothers
Captured, The Sweet Scent of Happiness
Zeeya Merali
143
Glen O. BRECHBILL
It’s a Stinky Job, but Astronauts are Grateful
S.Derickson Moore
Danielle Osborne
Would ‘Cleaner’ Perfumes Smell Just as Sweet?
James Kanter
Brand Profile: Art of Perfumery
Grant Osborne
What the Nose Knows
Author Unknown
Perfumes Tied to Film do Not All Smell Well
Coeli Carr
Start-Up Fragrance Companies - Catch a Whiff of Success
Ronald D. White
Entrepreneur Pulling in Dollars with His Scents
Ronald D. White
Good Vibrations
Katherine Kizilos
Scents & Sensibility - Bespoke Fragrances
Celia Lyttelton
Park Hyatt Commissions Own Perfume Line
Sarah Gam
Tracking Down the Scents of the Natural World
Robert Brookes
Smelling is Believing
Rodrique Ngowi
It All Makes Sense
Susie Rushton
Birth of a Perfume
Author Unknown
Perfume Designer & Fragrance Publisher - Frédéric Malle
Author Unknown
Passing the Sniff Test - A New Perfume Tries to Capture the Impossible
Elizabeth Snead
Luxury Items
Boey Ping Pin
Heaven Scents
Susie Rushton
Perfumes Tied to Film Do Not All Smell Well
Coeli Carr
Jean-Babtiste Grenouille - A Perfumer Murderer
Author Unknown
On the Scent in Paris
Louise Roddon
144
How France Makes Sense of Scents
Caroline Wyatt
Interview - Oscar De La Renta
Anette Green
Interview - Alain Boucheron
Anette Green
Interview - Massimo Ferragamo
Anette Green
Interview - Carolina Herrera
Anette Green
Interview - Karl Lagerfield
Anette Green
Interview - Donna Karan
Anette Green
Interview - Lolita Lempicka
Anette Green
Interview - Bob Mackie
Anette Green
Interview - Nicole Miller
Anette Green
Interview - Paco Rabanne
Anette Green
Interview - Sonia Rykiel
Anette Green
Interview - Yves Saint Laurent
Anette Green
Interview - Anna Sui
Anette Green
Interview - Vivienne Westwood
Anette Green
2007
The Art of Perfume
Allison O’Rourke
Written In the Stars
Author Unknown
Feature: Rare & Costly ‘Bespoke’
Author Unknown
Perfume’ - It’s Not Another Snuff Film
Susan Stone
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Dr. George Dodd
Catherine Deveney
Master Perfumers Nose Ahead with Made-To-Measure Scents
Author Unknown
145
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Boulder Perfumer Blends Scents with Passion
Brooke Wagner
Interview with Les Christophs’s Perfumers of Le Coffret
Marian Bendeth
The Art of Fragrance - Christopher Brosius
Mary Rayme
Traces of Marie Antoinette, Perfume
Molly Moore
Smell Like a Queen for a Princely Sum
Molly Moore
A Fragrance is a Fleeting Thing
Author Unknown
Making Scents: Natural Perfumery
Jan DeGrass
Job Vent
Author Unknown
Synthetic Perfume Versus Natural Scents - Which is Better?
Joanna McLaughlin
A New World of Haute Perfume
Georgina Safe
Conversations: Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9
Marlen Harrison
The Joy of 6
Susie Rushton
Artisian Natural Perfumers Guild Joins Crop Watch
Author Unknown
Perfect Scents
Edwina Ings- Chambers
Coming Up Roses
Sara Glassman
Uncommon Scents - Natural Perfumers Extract Lush Life
Michelle Devera Louie
Threat to Artisian Perfumers
Author Unknown
Scented Memories
Dzireena Mahadzir
The Scent of a Woman
Becky Linhardt
Symrise Establishes Perfumers’ Academy
Author Unknown
An Interview with Sylvie Jesua
Marie-Helene Wagner
Making Perfect Scents
Author Unknown
146
Perfumers & The 40th Amendment
Tony Burfield
Made by IFF
Author Unknown
Future Shock
Horacio Silva
Fragrance Science Part 3: Developing & Testing
Author Unknown
Take a Whiff: The Fragrance Industry Caters to Our Memories
March 2007
Lori Grannis
A Royalty’s ‘Creed’
Candy M. Veneeracion
Can Calvin Klein Seduce the ‘Millennial’
Eric Wilson
IFF’s Christophe Laudamiel Talks Scents
Author Unknown
Symrise - Trains Perfumers Of the Future
Louise Prance
For Old-Line Chanel, Audacious New Edge
Chandler Burr
How Do I Become a Perfumer
Emily Ford
Sales Guide - Counter Assistance
Roja Dove
An Interview with Christopher Chong
Marie-Helene Wagner
Exposing the Perfumer
Krell Kydd
The Craft of Designing Fragrances
Sarah E. Needleman
A Skillfull Blend of Art & Science
Author Unknown
In the Trenches: The Small-House Perfumer
Author Unknown
Secret Formula Perfumer Flying High
Author Unknown
Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer
Author Unknown
Firmenich Perfumer - Alberto Morallis
Sandra Low
Down with Perfume
Tim McKeough
Olfactory Girls
Linda Laban
147
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Smell of Competition
Jeremy Caplan
International Department
Author Unknown
Fragrance Families
Author Unknown
Natural Selection
Bethan Cole
Coming Up Smelling Roses
Helen Greenwood
The House of Creed
Boy Abunda
Perfumer Neil Morris Interview
Mark David
Green In Perfume - How to Build a Better Rose
Chandler Burr
Neil Morris: The Proust of Perfume
Michelyn Camen
What are Perfumes?
Roman Franczak
International Award For the 2008 Creative Perfumer
Isabel Dever
Creating Effective Natural Fragrances
May 2007
Author Unknown
Breathing in Coney Island, At Just $ 178 a Bottle
Anthony Ramirez
Spending Quality Time with Isabelle Doyen & Camille Goutal
Marcello Aspira
Featured Perfumer: Francis Kurkdjian
Author Unknown
People Whose Noses Know
Author Unknown
The Dark Aromas Seduce Us
David Livingstone
Conversations: Serena Ava France of Ava-Luxe
Minsun Lee
Conversations: Andy Tauer
Marlen Harsen
Uncommon Scents To a Virtuoso Parfumier
Angela Murrills
Paris Made to Measure
Author Unknown
Interview with Nicolas Olczyk
Marie-Helene Wagner
148
Uncommon Scents
Kupluthai Pungkanon
The Fragrant Gourmet
Helen Greenwood
Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi
Ermano
What’s In a Summer Scent?
Sarah Horrocks
Fredric Malle, Style & Design - Visionaries
Deirdre Van Dyk
Reminiscent Of a Woman
Jo Abbie
So You Want to Work in Fragrance & Cosmetic Science
Liz Ford
Eau d’Embargo
Pranay Gupte
Composing Perfumes
Cathy Redig
The Interpreter of Accords - Laurent Assoulen
Marian Bendeth
Annick Goutal Fragrances
Rachel Clinton
Perfumer Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier
Marie-Helene Wagner
Perfumer & Artistic Director François Demachy
Marie-Helene Wagner
Composing Perfumes
Cathy Rideg
Q & A with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
Marie-Helene Wagner
Fragrance Millionaires
Author Unknown
Perfumer Anne Flipo
Marie-Helene Wagner
Shiloh - A Perfume & a Baby
Joe Bargmann
For Hire: Perfume Nose
Siobhan Roth
Scent Sleuth: From Profile to Perfume
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer Alberto Morillas
Marie-Helene Wagner
Interview with a Perfumer - Celene Elenna
David Pescovitz
149
Glen O. BRECHBILL
IFF Perfumer Promotions
Author Unknown
Conversations: Sharon Bolton
Livia Scarcella
Sarrah Horrocks
Niche Perfumers
Author Unknown
How is Your Favorite Perfume Made?
Author Unknown
What it Takes To Drive Them Wild
Marian Bendeth
The Stories Around the First Gres’ Fragrances
Author Unknown
Birth of a Fragrance
Sept. 2007
Author Unknown
The Long Path to Becoming a Nez
Bill Oae
Invent Your Own Scent with a Fragrance Expert
Author Unknown
Sustainable Scents
Jeb Allured Gleason
Conversations: Sarah Horowitz - Thran
Bernadette
Lyn Harris - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Organic Perfumer Growing at Her Own Pace
Jondi Gumz at Jgumz
Marie Salamagne, Perfumer - An Interview
Author Unknown
A Life in the Day: Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier
Ria Higgins
Jean Claude Ellena - Le Parfum
Author Unknown
BT Woman - Purple Haze
Author Unknown
Garden of the Senses - Astrological Signs
Author Unknown
Inside Symrise’s Perfumer’s Academy
Author Unknown
An Interview with San Francisco Based Perfumer, Ineke Ruhland
Grant Osborne
The Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge
Author Unknown
150
P & G Enters Luxury Perfume Market
Author Unknown
Interview with Chandler Burr - Perfume Critic
Mark David Boberick
The Man Behind the Hat: An Interview with Romano Ricci
Marian Bendeth
Perfume Industry Aims to Regain Prestige
Kate Weisman
Conversations: Laurie Erickson
Ashne
Symrise Establishes Perfumers’ Academy
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Sophie Labbé
Marie-HeleneWagner
Inside Symrise’s Perfumers’ Academy
Author Unknown
New Perfumers for Symrise
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Ernest Shiftan
Marie-Helene Wagner
Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques
Author Unknown
Meox Mix
Chandler Burr
Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin
Sergey
Her Nose Knows
Carrie MacMillan
An Interview with Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna
Lanie Goodman
A Brief History of Scent
Lanie Goodman
What’s That You Are Wearing? Roast Beef?
Josh Ozersky
Germany: Symrise GmbH Establishes ‘Perfumer’s Academy’
Author Unknown
IFF Finds Newest Scents in New Jersey
Joseph R. Perone
Connecticut Grown Perfumers’ Website
Nov. 2007
Phil Hall
Something’s In the Air at IFF
Michael L. Diamon
Ermano
151
Glen O. BRECHBILL
How to Take the Stress Out of Christmas Shopping
Charlotte Metcalf
What Goes Inside
Molly Prior
Conversations: Jo Hook
Livia Scarcella
Conversations: JoAnne Bassett, Natural Perfumer
Marlen Harrison
The Home Where Fragrances Live
Elena Knezevic’
Interview with Roja Dove
Marie-HeleneWagner
Scents & Sensibility - Celebrity Perfumes
Paul Dalgarno
The New Scentsations
Nikki Goldstein
Jan DeGrass
Natural Perfumery - An Art
Jn De Grass
Isabelle Aurel - Explorers a World of Scent
Author Unknown
The Smell of Money
Janet Kersnar
The Editor Meets Roja Dove
Caroline Lucey
International Award for the 2008 Creative Perfumer
Author Unknown
Scent of Success for Woman with Nose for Business
Jill Armstrong
The Fragonard Perfume Launch
Chandler Burr
Perfume - The Evolution of Scent in the Fragrance Industry
Evelyn Vincent
Guerlain
Author Unknown
Whiff of Haute Couture Fragrance, - Perfumer Frederic Malle
Sylvia Rubin
Scent Journey: Guerlain’s 180th Birthday
Rita Silvan
Why the Perfume Business is Beginning to Stink
Christina Passariello
152
The Smell of Money - Making Scents of the World’s
Author Unknown
Scent of a Man - Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna
Author Unknown
IFF Promotions
Author Unknown
Perfumer Technician
Author Unknown
Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics
Bruce Garlick
Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Perfumer
Author Unknown
2008
Author Unknown
Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Oliver Cresp - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Isabelle Doyen - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Elisabeth de Feydeau - Historian
Author Unknown
Celine Elenna - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Interview ‘Etal Libre d’Orange’ - Perfumer
Author Unknown
A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena
Author Unknown
Hervé Gambs
Author Unknown
Aurélien Guichard - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
Clara Molly - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Fabrice Penot - Designer
Author Unknown
Laurice Rahme - Perfumery
Author Unknown
Romano Ricci - Designer
Author Unknown
Ineke Ruhland - Perfumer
Author Unknown
153
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Marie Salamagne - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Sara Horowitz Thran - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Frank Voelkl - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Alberto Morillas
Author Unknown
Smell is a Potent Wizard
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer - Ulrich Lang
Danielle Cooper
Davos Aromas Deodorize Subprime Stench
A. Craig Copetas
Perfumer’s Talent is Heaven - Scent
David Livingstone
Conversations: Russell Newell, Social Creatures
Marlen Harrison
Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics Part II
Author Unknown
World Economic Forum & Fresh Scents from IFF
Mark Champton
Conversations: An Interview with Marian Bendeth
Sali Oguri
Smelly Davos Unveils New World Odor
Barry Neild
Blown Away by Fragrant Typhoon
Helen Greenwood
IFF Promotions
Author Unknown
Perfumer’s Interview
Author Unknown
India Scent Expedition
Feb. 2008
Venikat Lyer
Scent Sleuth - When is a Rose Not a Rose?
Nancy C. Hyden
Collaborations & the Golden Rule
Jeff Falk
On the Scent of a Winner
Author Unknown
Conversations: Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence
Marlen Harrison
154
Smells of London - Roja Dove
Maggie Davis
New Regulations for Perfume Ingredients
Ellina Tzvetkova
The Moment Scent Notes - Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi
Chandler Burr
Jobs In Perfume & Aroma Industry
Heidi
The Italian Nose: Laura Tonatto
Lisa-Anne Sanderson
Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique Perfume Oils
Mallory Whitfield
For Perfumes, Synthetics Smell Sweeter
Chandler Burr
Synthetic Ingredients - Are Killing the Use of Essential Oils
Chandler Burr
Sold on Scents
Author Unknown
How To Create Perfume: The Journey of A Perfumer
Patricia Warner
Conversations: Raffy of Parfums Raffy
Marlen Harrison
L'Osmothèque - The Fifth Sense in the News
Marie-HeleneWagner
Scent Trail Leads Here
Maxine Gordon
An Old World Perfumer Races Sarah Jessica Parker
March 2008
Chandler Burr
Conversations: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils
Livia Scarcella
Andy Warhol Gets Another Scent
Jen Carlson
Business Relies on Noses for Its Profits
Michael L. Diamond
Leading by a Nose - Perfumer Anne Gottleib
Diana Uy
5 Day Perfumery Course in New York City
Philip Goutell
Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers
Marie-Helene Wagner
All In a Stink About Perfume
Derek McCormack
Bottling Your Own Personal Smell
Author Unknown
155
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Why It’s Good to Smell
Vicky Allan
Christophe Laudamiel: Perfume in a Poem
Author Unknown
Dove Gets Fresh with Women
Vanessa L. Facenda
Uncommon Scents - Roja Dove
Stella
Cutting Edge Creativity - Linda Pilkington
Suchitra Steven Samuel
Perfumes on Trial - The Truth About Our Scent Industry
Ashley Pearson
Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle
April 2008
Violet Devereaux
All in a Stink About Perfume
Derek McCormack
Edwin Creed Not to Become TV Star
Grant Osborne
Perfumes are Back to the Future
Raquel Laneri
Interview with Natural Perfumer Laurie Stone
Author Unknown
Fabienne Antoniewski
An Interview with Ulrich Lang
Danielle Cooper
Perfumers’ Help Women Smell Like Babies
Author Unknwon
The Body Beautiful - Perfumer Lynn Harris
Hillary Alexander
Everyone’s A Critic - Luca Turin
Ruth La Ferla
To Smell & Back - Perfume Critic Chandler Burr
Beth Luberecki
Conversations with Ulrich Lang
Ermano
Serge Lutens Interview: Stakes & Professions
Author Unknown
The World’s Best Perfume
Raquel Laneri
Now, Everyone’s a Perfume Critic
Ruth La Ferla
Live From New York - HBA Addressed Industry Trends
Nancy Jeffries
156
Bond No. 9 Unveils - Second Andy Warhol Perfume
Rachael Taylor
Conversations: The Creators of Le Labo
Cris Rosa Negra
Conversations with Anya McCoy
Marlen Harrison
Natural Perfumers - Acording to Jean Pierre Subrenat
Author Unknown
Growing Your Own Perfume
Author Unknown
The Talk; Liquid Assets
Phoebe Eaton
Guerlain Names Thierry Wasser Exclusive Perfumer
Rebecca Mann
The Scent of Peace - IFF Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel
Katherine Marshall
Oman: A Perfumer’s Dream
Rhona Wells
2008 Young Perfumer of the Year Named
Author Unknown
Paying Through Your Nose for Your Very Own Scent
Author Unknown
Booksmart
Mary Welp
Il Fragrance Delecto
Marian Bendeth
Coming Up Roses’ Jean Patou’s Perfumer - Michael Durez
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer - Olivia Giacobetti
Author Unknown
Jean-Claude Ellena Does Vetiver
Author Unknown
Jean Claude Ellena - Q & A
Author Unknown
A Whiff of Scandal
Author Unknown
Hermes Fragrance - Beauty
Author Unknown
To Spray or Stay Away
Luca Turin
Luxury with Lucia - Bespoke Perfumes
Lucia van der Post
Natural Perfume Notes
Ayna McCoy
157
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Arabian perfumes: An Essence of Tradition
Shiraz Hasan
Vanity Mirror - Alphabet Scents
Laura Katzenberg
Odor Among Aromas
June 08
Larry Nielsen
Scents of Home Interview with IFF Perfumer - Subha Patel
Vicki Hyman
Jennifer Jambon Wins International Young Perfumer Awardt
Grant Osborne
Blaise Mautin - Creates a Personal Scent for Park Hyatt Zurich
Author Unknown
Scent Trek Through Time - Part I
Marian Bendeth
Symrise Opens New Creative Center in Shanghai
Author Unknown
The Art of Perfume Making in the World’s ‘Perfume Capital’
DPA
Narciso the Painter & Padma the Perfumer
Bennet Marcus
Secret Formula, Intrigue, Copycats
Joanna McLaughlin
Yosh Han on Chocolate Perfumes
Author Unknown
Scent Treks Through Time - Part II
Marian Bendeth
Fragrance of the Orient
Syida Lizta Amirul Ihsan
A Perfumer’s Passion - Musk Ingredients
Michael Storer
How Green is Your Spritz
Helen Greenwood
Scent Treks Through Time - Part III
Marian Bendeth
All in a Stink About Perfume
Derek McCormack
Scent Treks Through Time - Park IV
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part V
Marian Bendeth
Conversations: Liz Zorn of Soivohle’
Abigail
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VI
Marian Bendeth
158
Carlos Cramer Perfumer
July 2008
Author Unknown
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VII
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIII
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer’s Playground
Phoebe Eaton
I Do Everything Classic with a Twist - Perfumer Romano Ricci
Gemma Champ
Conversations: George Wuchsa of First in Fragrance
Marlen Harrison
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIIII
Marian Bendeth
Perfume Choice More than Skin Deep
Emmy Fitri
Scent Treks Through Time - Part X
Marian Bendeth
Robert Piguet | Designer, Scentmaker, Legend
Tim Girvin
The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - Christopher Brosius
Liz Upton
An Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XI
August 2008 Marian Bendeth
Filling the Gilded Shoes of Guerlain - Thierry Wasser
Marian Bendeth
Small-Batch, big-Passion Scent
Elizabeth Wellington
Clive Christian Smells Expensive
Derek McCormack
For Aveda, The Problem with Common Scents
Dee De Pass
Conversations: Michael Storer
Livia Scarcella
How to Smell Like a Used Bookstore
Dwight Garner
Perfumer Disdains Common Scents
Dee De Pass
Interview with Perfumer Linsa Kramer
Author Unknown
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XII
Marian Bendeth
159
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Romano Ricci - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Conversations: Neil Morris
Abigail
Chemical Romance
India Knight
Natural Perfumers: Ayala Moriel, Claude Andre Hebert
Nathan Branch
Fragrance Facts - How to Pick, Buy & Keep a Perfume
Sept. 2008
Luca Turin
Niche Perfumer Creates Fragrance’s
Author Unknown
Talking Scents
Hadley Freeman
Roja Dove’s New Book: Essence of Perfume
Marlen Harrison
Interview with a Perfumer: Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne
Author Unknown
Perfumer - François Demachy
Author Unknown
Conversations Frank Voelkl
Cris Rosa Negra
Meet the Perfumistas
Karen Wheeler
Red Flower Power
Laura Katzenberg
Chanel “Nose” Jacques Polge
SunHee Grinnell
Bertrand Duchaufour & L’Artisan Parfumeur
Oct. 2008
Ligo Shea
Heaven Scent: The Best Independent Perfuemrs
Harriet Walker
Live from New York: Russian Middle Class Grows
Nancy Jeffries
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIII
Marian Bendeth
How To Create Perfume: The Journey Of a Perfumer
Patrica Ward
Jean Claude Ellena - Conference Presentation
Author Unknown
The Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury
Author Unknown
Scents Made to Suit
Author Unknown
160
The Talke of a Nose - Luca Turin
Jancis Robinson
On the Nose
Emma Reinhold
‘Nose” Thierry Wasser
Nov. 2008
Author Unknown
IFF - Helps Fashion Students Stiry Their Creative Juices
Author Unknown
Symrise - Sponsors Six Scents to Benefit Adis Research
Author Unknown
Bottling This Moment
Sarah Caden
An Interview with Perfumer - Janna Sheehan, natural
Author Unknown
Yes, I Inhaled, boasts a Man with Perfume in His Blood
Helen Greenwood
Nathalie Feishauer Joins Symrise as Senior Perfumer
Author Unknown
Perfumer - John Stephen
Author Unknown
The Demise of Natural Perfume Ingredients from Grasse?
Author Unknown
Awards for Symrise Perfumers
Author Unknown
Obituary - Perfumer - Bruyère Passed Away Today
Author Unknown
Laurent Bruyère & Mane
Author Unknown
Smelly Masterpieces - Why is Great Perfume Not Taken More Seriously
Angus Trumble
Perfumer - Lorenzo Dante Ferro
Author Unknown
Jean-Michel Duriez - Named In House Perfumer Rochas
Author Unknown
The Bespoke Perfumes of Paris
Deidre Woollard
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIV
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer - Christophe Laudamiel - Creates Scent for Amanda Lepore
Grant Osborne
Sniffing Auerlien Guichard - Givaudan
Raphaella Barkley
Dec. 08
Dirty Secrets
Frédéric Malle
161
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Sweet Scent of Success
Nirmal Khanna
Myth Debunking I
Author Unknown
Let us Spray
Hannah Betts
Jean-Michel Duriez to Perfume Rochas
Author Unknown
Making Scents - Azzi Glasser
Kate Mikhail
Perfumers - Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser
Emma Moore
Best-Kept-Secret Career: Creative Perfumer
Marty Nemko
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XV
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer/Author Michel Roudnitska
Author Unknown
Interview with Linda Pilkington, Perfumer
Jeca
The Sweet Smell of Success
Steve Goldstein
Fragrance Resources: Making Moves
Author Unknown
Finding the Perfect Perfume
Tracy Nesdoly
The Guerrilla Perfumers - Mark & Simon Constantine
Pia Long
Fragrance Marketing Campaign - Solicits Piano Compositions
Author Unknown
Message In a Bottle
Susanne S. Brown
An Interview with Mandy Aftel
Walter Minton
Eau de Brilliance
Alison Kerr
2009
Interview - Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz
Raphaella Barkley
Perfumer at Dullberg - Konzentra in Hamburg
Author Unknown
Interview with Gail Adrian
Bonnie Cehovet
162
ASP Perfumers’ Choice Awards
Author Unknown
The Rising Star - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Roux
Michelyn Camen
The Rising Star: Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier
Michelyn Camen
Oman: A Perfumer’s Dream
Rhona Wells
Editing Nature: a Look Inside Laboratoire Monique Remy
Kelly Frederick
Serge Lutens Interview: “All of My Perfumes Are Sixty-Six Years Old”
Author Unknown
Perfumes: The Guide - a Portal to a Whole New Art
Charlotte Higgins
Frederick Malle Editions de Parfums
Author Unknown
Q&A with Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne
Nathan Branch
Scent Sleuth: Fragrance Empowers Private Label
Nancy C. Hayden
Invisible Attraction
Tania Sanchez
Scent & the City - 5th Avenue Nights
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault
Author Unknown
The Nose Knows
Author Unknown
Enzo Galardi - The Man Behind Odori & Bois 1920
Ali Nakhai
Point of View - An Opportunity to Reinvent the Fragrance
Pascal Gaurin
Making Magic: Perfumer Cécile Krakower
Stephanie Nolasco
The Sound of Perfume
Grant Osborne
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Lyn Ayre
Feb. 09
Author Unknown
The Sweet Scent of Success
Emma Davies
An Interview with a Natural Perfumer - Lisa Fong
Author Unknown
François Demachy and Dior
Author Unknown
163
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Michael Edwards Strikes Partnership
Melody Ng
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Claude Dir
Author Unknown
Annick Goutal Un Matin d’Orage
Author Unknown
Book Review - The Essence of Perfume - Roja Dove
Ana McCoy
Perfumer Has a Nose for Simple Style
Author Unknown
Green Aria - A Scent Opera
Author Unknown
Sylvaine Delacourte - Answers Grain de Musc
Author Unknown
Interview with a Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen
March 09
Author Unknown
Buzz Without a Hangover
Eric Wilson
Scent of a Celebrity
Christopher Muther
Iso E Super - Its Merits, Is Faults
Author Unknown
Hermès’ Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena
Alexandra Marshall
Interview with Perfumer Michael Edwards
Grant Osborne
Halloween Costumes: I Want to be a Perfumer!
Author Unknown
Food for Thought
Jeb-Gleason Allured
Interview - Perfumer - Patricia de Nicolaï
Author Unknown
Interview with Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz
Raphaella Barkley
Aftel’s Living Perfume Exhibit at Bendel’s
Grant Osborne
Interviewing a Self Taught Artist - Lorenzo Villoresi
Author Unknown
Made In New York City - Perfume
Author Unknown
Symrise Scent Trek to India
Nancy Jeffries
164
Seven Top Bespoke Perfumers
Camilla Webster
What a Nose
Camilla Webster
Interview with Master Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena
Author Unknown
The Perfume of the Wind - An Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena
Michel Camen
Old World Gets Fresh in Latest from Frederic Malle
Renata Espinosa
Françoise Donce and Givenchy
April 09
Author Unknown
Making Scents of It
Marion Hume
Interview with Keiko Mecheri ( Passion for Perfume - Portrait )
Author Unknown
Movers & Shakers - Patricia Bilodeau, Perfumer
Peachy Deegan
Exhibit Provides Sense of the Future
Robert Campbell
Perfumer Dominique Ropion
Marie-HeleneWagner
Perfumer Emilie Bouge
Marie-HeleneWagner
Perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur
Marie-HeleneWagner
Smelling Like Roses or Not
Mildrade Cherfils
Jean-Claude Ellena - Making Sense of Making Scents
Amy Verner
Neil Morris Perfumes
Beth Schreibman Gehring
Natural Perfumer Exhibits at Bendel
Julie Gordon
Interview - Perfumer - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan
Author Unknown
Céline Ellena - An Interview with a Perfumer
Author Unknown
Haute Parfumerie
A. Tamjeed
The Chance of Renewing
Author Unknown
Interview - Christophe Laudamiel Talks
Author Unknown
165
Glen O. BRECHBILL
IFF Explores Culinary Trends
May 09
Nancy Jeffries
Interviewing Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain
Author Unknown
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel
Christopher Muther
A Roja Dove Date
Danielle Cooper
Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena In House Perfuemr for Hermes
Michelyn Camen
Return to Scenter
Nathalie Atkinson
Roja Dove - a Profile
Danielle Cooper
Interviewing: Pierre-Constantin Gueros
Author Unknown
Where We Are At in Fine Fragrance - 2009
Nathan Branch
An Interesting Conversation with Aurélien Guichard
Author Unknown
Interview with Ilias Ermenidis
Elena Knezevic
ASP Honors Perfumer Ellen Molner
Mel Fabrikant
The Creative Pair From Guerlain: Sylvaine Delacourte & Thierry Wasser
Author Unknown
This Opera Hasn’t Even Opened
Alexandra Alter
Thierry Mugler is Back
Sheryl Garratt
The Story of Geza Schoen’s Escentric Molecules
Marian Buckley
The First Scent Opera is Here!
Author Unknown
Making Scents
Sarah Cristobal
We Ask Questions - Q & A with Linda Pilkington
Author Unknown
My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part I
Christane Gonçalves
The Nose Knows No Bounds
Author Unknown
The Smell of Music
Author Lubow
166
Genie Behind the Bottle:
Liza Wade
Perfumer - Jacques Polge - An Interview
Author Unknown
IFF Celebrates Fifi Award Win
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Jean Carles
Author Unknown
Opera to Sniff at: A Score Offers Uncommon Scents
June 09
Anthony Tommasini
My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part II
Cristiane Gonçalves
The Nose Behind the Scents: Secrets of Perfume Making
Author Unknown
Opening! Green Aria - a Scent Opera
Author Unknown
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Joann Bassett
Author Unknown
An Interview with Natural Perfumer
Cirstiane Gonçalves
Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl
Jean Claude Ellena & Hermès
Author Unknown
Green Aria: An Opera for Your Nose
Amanda Gefter
Conversation - Star Perfumer Maurice Roucel, Symrise
Author Unknown
Thierry Mugler Sponsors - IFF Competition
Rebecca Mann
Laura Stern - Natural Perfumer
Raphaella Barkley
Meet Jean Claude Elenna - The In House Perfumer
Michelyn Camen
Valentino Rock’n Dreams ( 2009 ):
Author Unknown
Scentsation
Author Unknown
Scent of a Woman
Author Unknown
The Nose of Guerlain
Archana Subramanian
An Interview with Natural Perfumer Roxana Villa
Author Unknown
167
Glen O. BRECHBILL
An Interview with Johann Maria Farina
Tom Clark
Perfumers Breathe in Sales Data, & Strategize
Chandler Burr
IFF Promotes Several Senior Perfumers
Guy Montague-Jones
Biography of Ann Gottlieb - Her Career
Author Unknown
Fragrance Marketing - Pierce Mattie Interviews Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian
Pierce Mattie
Linda Pilkington of Ormondy Jayne Perfumery London
Author Unknown
Smelling a Rose Through a Rose-Tinted Nose
July 09
Mariani Dewi
Thierry Mugler Sponsors - IFF Competition @ The Royal College
Rebecca Mann
Scents of Self
David Meagher
Miller Harris’s Bespoke Perfumes
Lauren Sozio
Aerin Lauder’s Newest Addition to the Estee Lauder Private
Roopika Malhotra
Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour
Author Unknown
Lifestyle: Notes From the Côte
Josphine Fiarley
Perfumer Roxana Villa - The Oaky Scent of Philanthropy
Megan Walla-Murphy
A Life Less Ordinary
April Long
Fragrance Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand, an Interview
Julien Levy
Karine Dubreuil & Mane
Author Unknown
A Visit with Linda Pilkington ( Ormonde Jayne Perfumery )
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer - Olivier Gillotin
Author Unknown
Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska
Michelyn Camen
Study Notes: Back to School
Pia Long
Vetiver Men’s Perfume Eau de Toilette
Nina Saville
168
Estee Lauder - Story of Ungaro Lauder Perfume
August 09
Yuri Gutsatz
Yuri Gutsatz - An Artist Extrodinary
Author Unknown
Givaudan - Sensing an Opportunity
Katie Rodgers
Fläkt Woods Creates Air System for NY ‘Scent Opera’
Greg Pitcher
An Interview with Perfumer - Mathilde Laurent
Author Unknown
2009 SCS Spring Symposium
Author Unknown
Fabrice Penot
Author Unknown
Field Notes from Paris
William O’Such
Scenting Women
Lim Ai Lee
The ( Not So ) Glamorous World of Fragrances
Nathan Motylinski
Scents and Sensibility
Franck Ferrand
Scents & the City
Rym Ghazal
Introduction to Perfumery by Anne McClain
Jinal Shah
The Sweet Smell of Success
Author Unknown
Bringing Back the Original Craftsman Perfumer
Bonnie Kimberly Taylor
Comparing Notes: Carlos Benaim, Pascal Gaurin & Laurent Le Guernec
Jeb Allured Gleason
Learning to Let Go: Perfumers & Teamwork
Jeb Allured Gleason
Designers to Create Scents for Charity
Author Unknown
Vintage Perfume - Mitsouko by Guerlain
Victoria Robinson
Jicky by Guerlain
Victoria Robinson
Perfumery Schools
Author Unknown
The Creative Pair from Chanel: Jacques Polge & Chrostopher Sheldrake
Author Unknown
169
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Inside the Creative Mind of Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Perfume Studio Master Class at Bloomingdale’s
Carly Zinderman
Perfumer - Laurent Le Guernec
Author Unknown
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Goes Bespoke
Author Unknown
Perfumer My Gig
Amanda Coggin
Interview with French Perfumer Blaise Mautin
Simone Shitrit
Miller Harris Launches in Dubai
Author Unknown
Ernest Beaux
Author Unknown
Entrevista com o Perfumista Blaise Mautin
Simone Shitrit
Interviewing Pierre Guillaume a Perfumer
Author Unknown
An Interview with Sarah Horowitz
Author Unknown
The Perfumer & the Fixation Process
Remy Baker
Entrevista com um Perfumista de Sucesso! Napoleão Bastos Jr.
Simone Shitrit
Why Luca Turin Stopped His Quarterly Updates to the Guide
Abdes Salaam Attar
Interview with a Perfumer:Kristen Michèle
Violet Devereaux
Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger
Michelyn Camen
Scents & Sensibility
Susan Kurosawa
Guerlain’s Inhouse Perfumer Thierry Wasser
David Lackie
“One Drop Changes Everything”
Author Unknown
Sweet Scents & Classic Revivals
Katie Bird
The Scent Of England
Emma Hartley
Why Francis Kurkdjian is a Great Perfumer
Author Unknown
170
Interview with 7th Generation Perfumer Oliver Creed
Author Unknown
Pauline Zanoni & Lancome
Author Unknown
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Comes to Los Angeles
Merle Ginsberg
Guerlain’s Idylle Man
Eva Friede
Perfumista Tip: On Reformulations
Robin
Interview with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
Jessica Herman
First Look Fridays: Perfumer Maria McElroy
Oct. 2009
Jamie
Interview with Perfumer Lynn Harris
Anthony Rose
Perfume Talk with Yosh Han
Simone Shitrit
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again - Luca Turin
Alder
Interviewing Perfumer Spencer Krenke
Author Unknown
The Wunderkind of Perfumery - Franics Kurkdjian
Michelyn Camen
Takasago & Dominique Gindre
Author Unknown
Inspiration in Perfumery
Author Unknown
Interview with Natural Perfumer Persephenie
Author Unknown
The Scent of a Designer: Purple Couches?
Elva Ramirez
Perfume Make - Designer Style
April Long
An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer
Author Unknown
Interview with Fragrance Designer Raymond Matts
Author Unknown
Smell is Memory Insists Perfumer Thierry Wasser
Author Unnown
Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Roger Broudoux
Author Unknown
171
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Six Scents
Author Unknown
Emperor of an Invisible Kingdom - Paris Perfumer Richard Fraysse
dpa
Evoking Thoughts with Fragrance
Author Unknown
Fragrance Trends & Jean Claude Ellena
Author Unknown
Interview - Synthetics to Shalimar - Chandler Burr
Nina Sinatra
Dream Job - Perfumer
Jessica Griggs
Mathilde Laurent Respons to Questions
Author Unknown
Jacques Flori and Robertet
Author Unknown
Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, the Legendary Fragrance
Inessa Hyder
Perfumer Oliver Polge Wins Top Prize
Author Unknown
They Smell Like Nature
Romina McGuinness
Modern Perfume Classics - Samsara
Victoria Robinson
Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux
Michelyn Camen
Designer - Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview
Author Unknown
PFW’s Patchwood Perfumery Contest
Paul Hodges
An Interview with Perfumer Delphine Jelk
Author Unknown
Patricia de Nicolai In Partnership
Author Unknown
Interiors - The Paris Flat of the Perfumer Jacques Polge
Elfreda Pownall
The Rising Star: Inerview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier
Nov. 09
Author Unknown
Studio Visit - Sissel Tolaas Scent Expert
Monica Khemsurov
News Special: Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Sandra Rose
First Person - ‘I can Identify 1,000 Different Scents’
Rob Sharp
172
Entrevista: Givaudan Perfumista Thierry Bessard
Author Unknown
Vain Glorious | Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Christine Muhlke
Glamorous Inspirations
Archana Subramanian
43rd Amendment Takes Effect Banning Chypre Fragrances
Inessa Hayder
Perfume Scents
Dudley Benjamin
Interview with Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva
Romantic Notes - Interview with Perfumer Dominique Ropion
Wong Li Za
Whiffs of Memory as Art
Author Unknown
Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci
Michelyn Camen
An Interview with a Natural Perfumer Dominique Durbana
Author Unknown
Perfumier Stephane Humbert Lucas Discusses Nez
Elizabeth Monson
Photos: Ineke Field Notes From Paris
Nathan Branch
Scent Profile: Lorenzo Villoresi - Perfume Artisian
Allison O’Rourke
Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot
Mel Cornford
Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen
Michelyn Camen
The Scent Detective - How to Sniff Out Fragrances
Dec. 09
Maggie Bullock
Creating the First Fragrance of the 21st Century
Author Unknown
Bottling the Scent of Sydney
Helen Greenwood
The Power of Fragrance
Sarah Maisey
Interview with Perfumer - François-Raphaël Balestra
Anthéa Gutknecht
Enrico Scartezzini & M&M Fragrances
Author Unknown
173
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Making Scents
Jessica Hume
Perfumes, The Perfumer and the Fixation Process
Remy Baker
Thierry Wasser, a Considerable Interview
Authors Unknown
Rose In Zurich: Andy Tauer’s Une Chypre Rose
Michelyn Camen
Now Smell This, and See Its Maker
Terry Trucco
Interview - Della Chuang
Simone Shitrit
Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Spot a Brighter Future
Author Unknown
Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Be Your Own Nose
Author Unknown
Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Tell a Tale
Author Unknown
Ineke Rühland - Perfumer San Francisco
Author Unknown
Natural Perfumers Wish You a Happy Holiday
Author Unknown
Terry Trucco
Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview
Author Unknown
Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Givaudan Senior Perfumer
2010
The Perfumers Association Bands Popular Perfumes
Inessa Hayder
Emile Copperman & Symrise
Author Unknown
Breaking the Mould
Libby Banks
Captive Cabernet
Neil Pendock
Symrise: Flavours and Fragrances
Lim Yan Wen
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Mike Parrott
Grant Osborne
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Beverley Bayne
Grant Osborne
174
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, David Ruskin
Grant Osborne
Perfumes: The A-Z Guide
Anastasia Hendrix
Memories of Bint el Sudan
Alison Bate
Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy
Michelyn Camen
Renowned Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel
Author Unknown
Fracas by Robert Piquet
Victoria Robinson
Best Men’s Fragrances - Dior Eau Sauvage
Victoria Robinson
IFF Perfumer - Juliette Karagueuzoglou Wins 2010
Author Unknown
New Fragrance is Classical Not Retro
David Livingstone
Candle Companies - Banking on The Power of Fragrance
Kim Kimzey
Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview
Feb. 2010
Author Unknown
Wall Street Journal Highlights Tucson Perfumer
Jamie Manser
Bandit by Robert Piguet
Victoria Robinson
Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen
Author Unknown
The Art of Natural Perfumery
Tatiana Serafin
Instyle Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Author Unknown
A Short Interview with Perfumer - Daniel Vaudd
Author Unknown
Francis Kurkdjian & Takasago
Author Unknown
A Real Perfumer on Corporate Perfume
Erin Weinger
Perfume Designer - Clara Molloy
Author Unknown
An Interview with Alec Lawless of Essentially Me
Walker Minton
Oman’s Royal Family - Scents Global Profit
Daniela Deane
175
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Legendary Perfumer - Ernest Beaux of Chanel
Author Unknown
Scents & Sensibility - The Osmothèque
Franck Ferrand
Meet the Green Goddesses of Natural Perfume
Michelyn Camen
Global Art of Perfumes
Katie Nichol
Let Me Dream a Perfect Scent: Timothy John
Hieronimuss
DelRae Roth - an Interview
Author Unknown
Art and Matter - How to Sculpt the Molecule ( Part I )
March 2010
Sabine Chabbert
Indulge In the Ruth Mastenbroek Fragrance
Author Unknown
Perfume Fountain Planned for Brooklyn
Deidre Woolard
Headspace on Scent as Design
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Francis Kurkdjian - An Interview
Author Unknown
Headspace: A Symposium on Scent as Design
Author Unknown
The Prize of Luxury ( Interview with Erwin Creed )
Author Unknown
Art and Matter - How to Sculpt the Molecule ( Part II )
Sabine Chabbert
Luxury Doesn’t Have to be Expensive’
Margaret Kemp
A Beautiful Mind
Viola Levy
An Interview with Perfumer Will Andrews
Author Unknown
Olfactory Pursuits
Vivienne Khoo
In Memoriam Perfumer Béatrice Piquet
Marie Helene Wagner
Interview with a Perfumer Andy Tauer
Author Unknown
Perfumery Professions - Marie Petit, Naming
Author Unknown
Natural Perfumer - Liza Zorn, an Interview
Author Unknown
180
Scent as Design
Eva Wisten
Lorenzo Villoresi
Author Unknown
Say It With Scent
Stephanie Rivers
Global Art of Perfumes
Author Unknown
Choosing the Right Scent: Artisian Perfumer Frederic Malle
Nana-Adwoa Ofori
Sweet Stank of Innovation
Linda Tischler
Meet Arthur Burnham, A Perfumer
Author Unknown
Making Scents
Adam Zacharias
Alexander Lee - An American Perfume Student in Paris
Author Unknown
A Rose by Another Name
April 2010
Corby Kummer
Perfumer - Rodrigo Flores- Roux - An Interview
Author Unknown
Quick Sniffs - Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Nathan Branch
Yosh Han, The Magic of Custom Scents
Jenn Klein
The Results Are In: The Patchwood Perfumery Contest
Paul Hodges
Christine Nagel & Fragrance Resources
Author Unknown
Sniffing Out Scent Clues to New Classics
Nancy Hayden
Fresh Relaxing Carefree: Green Tea Lavender Fragrance
Author Unknown
Art that Enters Through the Nose
Michael Stenski
Perfumes of the Land and Sea
Dr. John King
Interview - Life Is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett
Author Unknown
The Scent of Wine & Chocolate
Author Unknown
Tauer Perfumes Orange Star
Nathan Branch
181
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Osmothèque: A Perfume Museum & Library
Jamie B
L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain - Perfume Review
Victoria Robinson
Perfumery Professions: Stéphane Piquart, “Sourcer”
Author Unknown
A Voyage of Discovery with Ormonde Jayne’s
Danielle Cooper
Jean-Claude Ellena’s Latest Reflections on Perfumery
Author Unknown
Scent of a Pontianak - Tuberose
Vivienne Khoo
Interview: Perfumer Vajra Wright
JoSelle Vanderhooft
Visualizing the Invisible - Michel Roudnitska
Marlene Goldsmith
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Ayala Sender
Raphaella Brescia Barkley
What’s New in Princeton & Central New Jersey?
Scott Morgan
Making Scents
Author Unknown
1000 Flowers Reglissee Noire-Olfactory Black Jujubes
Mark Behnke
Following Her Nose
May 2010
Siobhán Dowling
Interview- Maurice Roucel, Master Perfumer
Anne Lueneburger
Philippe Romano & Drom International
Author Unknown
Interview: Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato
JoSelle Vanderhott
Scent Dinner - Chandler Burr
Chandler Burr
L’Osmothèque Preserving The Past To Ensure The Future
Sarah Cotton
Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview
Author Unknown
Led Around by Our Noss
Richard Gray
The Fragrance Industry & The Golden Boomer Consumer
Nathan Branch
The Nose Knows - Sandra Anderson natural
Kim Triegaardt
178
Interview with Perfumer & Owner Tanja Bochhnig
Author Unknown
Vol de Nuit - Perfume Review
Victoria Robinson
An Interview With Botanical Natural Perfumer Justine Crane
Author Unknown
Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes How They Smell
Avery Gilbert
Tranquil Notes
Patsy Kam
Snapshots From My Visit to a Fragrance Field
Author Unknown
Marie Benoît’s Diary
Marie Benoit
What Does Singapore Smell of?
Vivienne Khoo
Lorenzo Dante Ferro
June 2010
Author Unknown
Humiecki & Graef Bosque: Laudable Laudamie
Mark Behnke
Givaudan - Looks to Rare Species for Inspiration
Katie Bird
The Move to Restrict Perfume Ingredients
Rebecca Johnson
Making Flowers Into Perfume
Michael Tortorello
Holy Smoke & Good Oudh
Vivienne Khoo
A More Perfect Scent - A Perfume Addict Goes Organic
Amanda Walker
Scent Branding Sweeps the Fragrance Industry
Spencer Morgan
Perfumery Schools
Michelle Renee
Uncommon Scents: The Rise of Unisex Fragrances
Author Unknown
Talking Nose
Nicola
Romancing the Whale
Vivienne Khoo
Scent Branding
Spencer Morgan
Firmenich & Master Perfumer Harry Fremont
Author Unknown
179
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Alberto Morillas & Firmenich
July 2010
Author Unknown
How to Make Your Own Perfume
Mistra Ini
The Lost Interview with Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
The Mystery of Musk
Skye Miller
The Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain
Atanova Lydia
Passing the Sniff Test
Stephanie Findlay
The Scent of Asphalt
Tim Grivin
Moriel’s Natural Scents Subtle & Intimate
Sarah Rowland
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian - Entertians in the City of Light
Author Unknown
Diaghilev by Roja Dove
Victoria Robinson
Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers
Author Unknown
Eau Manny - Boxer Pacquiao Markets His Own Cologne
Gendy Alimurung
Requirements for Chemistry Perfume Careers
Alessandra Lotuaco
Perfumers Decrypt, How to Have a Virgin Fragrance
Marie Wright
Genderless Perfumes - By Karl Lagerfield
Author Unknown
The Watermill Center Benefit
Douglas Harrington
Fragrance - Something in the Air
Author Unknown
Think Perfumers Only Make Perfumes?
Author Unknown
Q&A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas
Samantha Antopol
Perfumery Professions: Françoise Donche, Givenchy’s Fragrance Expert
Author Unknown
Cancer & the Queen - Jasmin
Vivienne Khoo
Select the Perfect Scent for Your Wedding Day
Jessica Pauline Ogilvie
180
Antoine Maisondieu & Givaudan
Author Unknown
Vir Sanghvi
The History of Perfume
Michael Bywater
Perfumer - Jean Claude Elenna
Vir Sahghvi
Jardins de Bagatelle - Perfume Review
Aug. 2010
Victoria Robinson
Smellscape - Sissel Tolaas
Christina Agapakis
Fragrance Review: Ralpha Lauren’s Bit Pony II
Chandler Burr
Sights Meet Smells at the Denver Art Museum
Sari Padorr
The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part II )
Nathan Branch
Perfumery Professions: Ann Gottlieb
Author Unknown
How Michelle Bam - Helped Miller Harris’ Business
Liz Hoggard
Exploring the Market of Men’s Perfume
Vir Sanghvi
Aftelier: Long-Distance Bespoke Fragrance Service
Nathan Branch
The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part III )
Nathan Branch
Has the Fragrance Market Reached Saturation Point?
Author Unknown
Winner By a Nose
Sept. 2010
S.S. Yoga
From the Front - Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie
Julia Rebaudo
Something Old, Something Bleu
S.S. Yoga
Questions & Answers with Legendary Chanel Perfumer
Stéphane Gaboué
Oliver Polge & IFF
Author Unknown
Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer
Violet Devereaux
Christophe Laudamiel - Perfumer
Author Unknown
181
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Most Interesting Fragrances
Carla Long
Sketch & Sniff: The New Cross-sensory Fragrances
Pei-Ru Keh
Perfumer - Francis Kurkjidian Absolue Pour Le Soir Fragrance
Catherine Saint Louis 1025
Ruth Mastenbroek - Talks About Her First Eau de Parfum
Grant Osborne
The Language of Fragrance - Christoph Laudamiel
Andrew Dermont
Creating the Scent of a Virgin
Author Unknown
Yosh Han Mixes Your Special Scent - Take a Whiff
Steve Rubenstein
An Audience With Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser
Persolaise
How We Met: Jane Birkin & Lyn Harris
Rhiannon Haries
Perfumery Professions - Theirry de Baschmakoff
Author Unknown
An Evening with Francis Kurkdjian
Grant Osborne
Jean-Paul Guerlain’s New Book - Parfums d’Amour
Author Unknown
ODin 4 Petrana: Desert in Bloom
Mark Behnke
Interview with Pierre Guillaume: Huitieme Art Perfumes
Michelyn Camen
Mandy Aftel & Andy Tauer: Letters to a Fellow Perfumer
Nathan Branch
Roja Dove - The ( Professor of Perfume )
Persolaise
A Chaque Parfum sa Tenue
Guillaume Crouzet
Symrise Establishes Perfumery School in India
Author Unknown
Interview With a Natural Perfumer: Kristen Dunagan
Oct. 2010
Violet Devereaux
Art of Fragrance Lecture
March
An Evening of European Perfumery at Harrods
Persolaise
How to: Make Your Own Scratch-And-Sniff Map
Nicola Twilley
182
Symrise Establishes Perfumery School in India
Author Unknown
Best Bet: Create Your Own Custom Scent
Anne McClain
Live, From New York Its Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Eau My!
David Light
Symrise Opens Perfuemry Academy in India
Nicola Popplewell
The Science of Scent at Harrods Perfume Diaries
Nick Gilbert
The Samurai Shopper | My Favorite Nose
S.S. Fair
Francis Kurkdjian: Recipe For a Great Perfumer
Author Unknown
Bois Noire or Egoiste - Chanel’s Jacques Polge Explains
Author Unknown
Ajmal: A Tradition that Lingers
Parimita Barooah Bora
Top French Perfumer: ‘I set myself to Work Like a Nigger’
Author Unknown
Guerlain’s - $ 19,000 Perfume
Amy Ma
Bottled By Baccarat - The Final Event at Harrods
Author Unknown
An Interview with Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge
Stéphane Gaboué
The House of Creed’s Young Heir Plans a U.S. Tour
Author Uknown
The Escentric World of a Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen
Nov. 2010
Michelyn Camen
Erwin Creed Thinks Finding the Right Perfume
Lauren Murrow
Herr “Professor” Geza Schoen - Gives a Chemistry Lesson
Mark Behnke
The Art of Composing Fragrance, Naturally
Yuko Fukami
Interview with Jessica September Buchanan of 1000 Flowers
Michelyn Camen
French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents at Fashion Island
Cindy McNatt
Blogging The Forbidden - Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu
Persolaise
183
Glen O. BRECHBILL
10 Questions to Frédéric Malle
Author Unknown
Interview with Sylvie Ganter
Michelyn Camen
Esscentual Alchemy: Perfumes by Amanda Feeley
Monica “Skye” Miller
Behind The Fragrance
Dec. 2010
Author Unknown
Michael Edwards - Tracks the Risking Importance
Melody Ng
A New French School of Perfumery
Marie Helene Wagne
Roja Dove is Making Sense of Scents
Helen Greenwood
Odour Classification of Perfumes
Savitha C. Muppala
Chemical Romance: How Did Chemists Become
Erin McAvoy
Perfume Scent From Childhood
Andrea Klassen
Interview: Roja Dove, Perfumer
Lee Randall
Symrise Perfumery School Opens in India
Author Unknown
Scent of a Woman - Patricia de Nicolai, 54
Nathalie Atkinson
Cooking with Angel
Marcy Goldman
Sweet Smell of Success
Author Unknown
184
The Interviews
Name of Article
Year
Author
Interview with Edmond Roudnitska
1993
Author Unknown
From a Perfumer’s Point of View
2000
Author Unknown
1930 - 2006
Interview With Michael Edwards
Grant Osborne
The Nose Knows - Jean Michel Duriez
Mathilde Gendron
Interview With Marian Bendeth
Grant Osborne
Interview with Perfumer Christin Nagel 2002
Bernard Bourgeons
An Interview with Perfumer - Alberto Morillas
Author Unknown
Making Scents - Lorenzo Villoresi - Secrets of the Art
Author Unknown
Jacques Polge - An Interview
Anette Green
Author Unknown
Creativity in Perfumery?
2003
Author Unknown
Good Scents - Mandy Aftel
Bary Caine
Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin
Author Unknown
185
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The High School Classroom - Interview with - Laudamiel
2004
Author Unknown
Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques Polge
Jeremy Josephs
Scents & Sensibility - Dr. George Dodd
Author Unknown
Luca Turin’s Presentation to the BSP
Clio Vidal
Michael Edwards Presentation to BSP
Clio Vidal & Helene Pizet
Innter Global Fashion Trends - Lynn Harris
JCR
Genius With a Bottle
Author Unknown
Scent & the City
Author Unknown
French Master-Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents
Caroline Brothers
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite Novels
Thomas Pettifor
Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris
Geraldine Bedell
Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han
Anastasia Hendrix
Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo
2005
Annick Vandorpe
Givaudan Perfumer Has Nose for Success
Natalia Dudareva
Caroline Sabas - Givaudan Perfumer
Author Unknown
Vive La Vie - The House of Roure
Author Unknown
Strong, Man
Author Unknown
Luca Turin’s Perfume Criticism
Chandler Burr
The Alchemist’s Life - Mandy Aftel
Anastasia Hendrix
Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears
Alex Kuczynski
Doean Pickett - The Nose Knows
Clyde Park
Scent Of the Young & Happy
Author Unknown
186
An Excellent Nose for Business
Auhor Unknown
Robin
An Interview With Yann Vasnier
Author Unknown
Natural Perfumery: Conversation with Mandy Aftel
Author Unknown
Interview with Michel Roudnitska
Author Unknown
On the Rise: The Scent of Rubber Cement
Author Unknown
An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi
Robin
The Nose Has Its’ Reasons
David Colman
Beauty Beat: Goutal’s Lates Scent a Dream...
2006
Ellen Groves
What Are Set to Be The Hotest Fragrance Notes in 2006?
Author Unknown
Perfumer Draws Fire Over a Scent Called ‘Peace’
Ruth La Ferla
Master Perfumer Jean-Calude Ellena
Mark Grischke
Sophia Grojsman of IFF
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Sophia Grojsman
Author Unknown
Channeling Chanel
Alison Kerr
A Conversation with - Jacques Polge
Annette Green
The Perfect Perfume
Author Unknown
An Interview with René Laruelle
Marlen Harrison
Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez is On the Scent of the Next Big Thing
Clifford Pugh
Author Unknown
Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger
Author Unknown
Fishy Perfume of Sydney Gets Up Frenchman’s Nose
Georgina Safe
187
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Perfume Scoop! Ineke Perfumer San Francisco
Catilin Shortell
An Interview with Ayala Sender
Grant Osborne
An Interview with The New York Times - Perfume Critic
Grant Osborne
Eau D’New York in the Summer
Beth Fertig
The Sweat Hog
Susie Rushtons
Fragrance - Travel Notes
Lesa Hannah
Roja Dove’s Aromatic Adventures
Ian McCurrach
Spotlight: The Precise Smell of Success
Caroline Brothers
Danielle Osborne
What the Nose Knows
Author Unknown
It All Makes Sense
Susie Rushton
Birth of a Perfume
Author Unknown
Heaven Scents
Susie Rushton
Interview - Alain Boucheron
Anette Green
Interview - Massimo Ferragamo
Anette Green
Interview - Carolina Herrera
Anette Green
Interview - Karl Lagerfield
Anette Green
Interview - Donna Karan
Anette Green
Interview - Lolita Lempicka
Anette Green
Interview - Bob Mackie
Anette Green
Interview - Nicole Miller
Anette Green
Interview - Paco Rabanne
Anette Green
188
Interview - Sonia Rykiel
Anette Green
Interview - Yves Saint Laurent
Anette Green
Interview - Anna Sui
Anette Green
Interview - Vivienne Westwood
Anette Green
2007
The Art of Perfume
Allison O’Rourke
Conversations: Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9
Marlen Harrison
Perfect Scents
Edwina Ings- Chambers
Scented Memories
Dzireena Mahadzir
IFF’s Christophe Laudamiel Talks Scents
Author Unknown
Sales Guide - Counter Assistance
Roja Dove
An Interview with Christopher Chong
Marie Helene Wagner
Exposing the Perfumer
Krell Kydd
Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer
Author Unknown
Firmenich Perfumer - Alberto Morallis
Sandra Low
Down with Perfume
Tim McKeough
Coming Up Smelling Roses
Helen Greenwood
Perfumer Neil Morris Interview
Mark David
Neil Morris: The Proust of Perfume
Michelyn Camen
Marcello Aspira
Marcello Aspira
Conversations: Serena Ava France of Ava-Luxe
Minsun Lee
189
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Conversations: Andy Tauer
Marlen Harsen
Paris Made to Measure
Author Unknown
Interview with Nicolas Olczyk
Marie-HeleneWagner
Ermano
What’s In a Summer Scent?
Sarah Horrocks
So You Want to Work in Fragrance & Cosmetic Science
Liz Ford
Eau d’Embargo
Pranay Gupte
The Interpreter of Accords - Laurent Assoulen
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier
Marie Helene Wagner
Q & A with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
Marie Helene Wagner
Shiloh - A Perfume & a Baby
Joe Bargmann
Interview with a Perfumer - Celene Elenna
David Pescovitz
Conversations: Sharon Bolton
Livia Scarcella
Sarrah Horrocks
Conversations: Sarah Horowitz - Thran
Bernadette
Marie Salamagne, Perfumer - An Interview
Author Unknown
An Interview with San Francisco Based Perfumer, Ineke Ruhland
Grant Osborne
The Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge
Author Unknown
Interview with Chandler Burr - Perfume Critic
Mark David Boberick
The Man Behind the Hat: An Interview with Romano Ricci
Marian Bendeth
Conversations: Laurie Erickson
Ashne
Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques
Author Unknown
190
Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin
Sergey
An Interview with Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna
Lanie Goodman
Ermano
Conversations: Jo Hook
Livia Scarcella
Conversations: JoAnne Bassett, Natural Perfumer
Marlen Harrison
Interview with Roja Dove
Marie Helen Wagner
Jan DeGrass
Natural Perfumery - An Art
Jn De Grass
Isabelle Aurel - Explorers a World of Scent
Author Unknown
The Smell of Money
Janet Kersnar
The Editor Meets Roja Dove
Caroline Lucey
Scent of Success for Woman with Nose for Business
Jill Armstrong
The Fragonard Perfume Launch
Chandler Burr
Whiff of Haute Couture Fragrance, - Perfumer Frederic Malle
Sylvia Rubin
Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics
Bruce Garlick
2008
Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Oliver Cresp - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Isabelle Doyen - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Elisabeth de Feydeau - Historian
Author Unknown
191
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Celine Elenna - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Interview ‘Etal Libre d’Orange’ - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
Hervé Gambs
Author Unknown
Aurélien Guichard - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
Clara Molly - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Fabrice Penot - Designer
Author Unknown
Laurice Rahme - Perfumery
Author Unknown
Romano Ricci - Designer
Author Unknown
Ineke Ruhland - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Marie Salamagne - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Sara Horowitz Thran - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Frank Voelkl - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Alberto Morillas
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer - Ulrich Lang
Danielle Cooper
Conversations: Russell Newell, Social Creatures
Marlen Harrison
Conversations: An Interview with Marian Bendeth
Sali Oguri
Perfumer’s Interview
Author Unknown
Collaborations & the Golden Rule
Feb. 2008
Conversations: Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence
192
Jeff Falk
Marlen Harrison
Smells of London - Roja Dove
Maggie Davis
The Italian Nose: Laura Tonatto
Lisa-Anne Sanderson
Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique Perfume Oils
Mallory Whitfield
Conversations: Raffy of Parfums Raffy
Marlen Harrison
Conversations: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils
Livia Scarcella
Business Relies on Noses for Its Profits
Michael L. Diamond
Leading by a Nose - Perfumer Anne Gottleib
Diana Uy
Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers
Marie HeleneWagner
Christophe Laudamiel: Prfume in a Poem
Author Unknown
Uncommon Scents - Roja Dove
Stella
Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle
April 2008
Violet Devereaux
Interview with Natural Perfumer Laurie Stone
Author Unknown
An Interview with Ulrich Lang
Danielle Cooper
Everyone’s A Critic - Luca Turin
Ruth La Ferla
To Smell & Back - Perfume Critic Chandler Burr
Beth Luberecki
Conversations with Ulrich Lang
June 2008
Ermano
Serge Lutens Interview: Stakes & Professions
Author Unknown
Conversations: The Creators of Le Labo
Cris Rosa Negra
Conversations with Anya McCoy
Marlen Harrison
The Talk; Liquid Assets
Phoebe Eaton
Il Fragrance Delecto
Marian Bendeth
193
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Coming Up Roses’ Jean Patou’s Perfumer - Michael Durez
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer - Olivia Giacobetti
Author Unknown
Jean Claude Ellena - Q & A
Author Unknown
Scents of Home Interview with IFF Perfumer - Subha Patel
Vicki Hyman
Scent Trek Through Time - Part I
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part III
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Park IV
July 2008
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part V
Marian Bendeth
Conversations: Liz Zorn of Soivohle’
Abigail
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VI
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VII
Marian Bendeth
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIII
Marian Bendeth
I Do Everything Classic with a Twist - Perfumer Romano Ricci
Gemma Champ
Conversations: George Wuchsa of First in Fragrance
Marlen Harrison
Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIIII
Marian Bendeth
Perfume Choice More than Skin Deep
Emmy Fitri
Scent Treks Through Time - Part X
Marian Bendeth
Robert Piguet | Designer, Scentmaker, Legend
Tim Girvin
The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - Christopher Brosius
Liz Upton
An Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XI
Aug. 2008
Filling the Gilded Shoes of Guerlain - Thierry Wasser
194
Marian Bendeth
Marian Bendeth
Small-Batch, big-Passion Scent
Elizabeth Wellington
Conversations: Michael Storer
Livia Scarcella
Perfumer Disdains Common Scents
Dee De Pass
Interview with Perfumer Linsa Kramer
Author Unknown
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XII
Marian Bendeth
Romano Ricci - Perfumer
Author Unknown
Conversations: Neil Morris
Abigail
Natural Perfumers: Ayala Moriel, Claude Andre Hebert
Nathan Branch
Interview with a Perfumer: Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne
Author Unknown
Perfumer - François Demachy
Author Unknown
Conversations Frank Voelkl
Cris Rosa Negra
Chanel “Nose” Jacques Polge
SunHee Grinnell
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIII
Marian Bendeth
Jean Claude Ellena - Conference Presentation
Author Unknown
The Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury
Author Unknown
On the Nose
Emma Reinhold
‘Nose” Thierry Wasser
Nov. 2008
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer - Janna Sheehan, natural
Author Unknown
Yes, I Inhaled, boasts a Man with Perfume in His Blood
Helen Greenwood
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIV
Marian Bendeth
Making Scents - Azzi Glasser
Kate Mikhail
Perfumers - Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser
Emma Moore
195
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Scent Treks Through Time - Part XV
Marian Bendeth
Perfumer/Author Michel Roudnitska
Author Unknown
Interview with Linda Pilkington, Perfumer
Jeca
An Interview with Mandy Aftel
Walter Minton
2009
Interview - Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz
Raphaella Barkley
Interview with Gail Adrian
Bonnie Cehovet
he Rising Star - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Roux
Michelyn Camen
The Rising Star: Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier
Michelyn Camen
Serge Lutens Interview: “All of My Perfumes Are Sixty-Six Years Old”
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault
Author Unknown
Point of View - An Opportunity to Reinvent the Fragrance
Pascal Gaurin
Making Magic: Perfumer Cécile Krakower
Stephanie Nolasco
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Lyn Ayre
Feb. 2009
Author Unknown
An Interview with a Natural Perfumer - Lisa Fong
Author Unknown
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A
Author Unknown
Sylvaine Delacourte - Answers Grain de Musc
Author Unknown
Interview with a Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen
March 2009
Author Unknown
Iso E Super - Its Merits, Is Faults
Author Unknown
Interview - Perfumer - Patricia de Nicolaï
Author Unknown
Interview with Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz
Raphaella Barkley
Interviewing a Self Taught Artist - Lorenzo Villoresi
Author Unknown
196
What a Nose
Camilla Webster
Interview with Master Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena
Author Unknown
The Perfume of the Wind - An Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena
Michel Camen
Making Scents of It
Marion Hume
Interview with Keiko Mecheri ( Passion for Perfume - Portrait )
Author Unknown
Movers & Shakers - Patricia Bilodeau, Perfumer
Peachy Deegan
Smelling Like Roses or Not
April 2009
Mildrade Cherfils
Jean-Claude Ellena - Making Sense of Making Scents
Amy Verner
Natural Perfumer Exhibits at Bendel
Julie Gordon
Interview - Perfumer - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan
Author Unknown
Céline Ellena - An Interview with a Perfumer
Author Unknown
Interview - Christophe Laudamiel Talks
Author Unknown
Interviewing Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain
Author Unknown
Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena In House Perfuemr for Hermes
Michelyn Camen
Interviewing: Pierre-Constantin Gueros
Author Unknown
We Ask Questions - Q & A with Linda Pilkington
Lucy
The Nose Behind the Scents: Secrets of Perfume Making
Author Unknown
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Joann Bassett
Author Unknown
An Interview with Natural Perfumer
Cirstiane Gonçalves
Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl
May 2009
Conversation - Star Perfumer Maurice Roucel, Symrise
Author Unknown
Laura Stern - Natural Perfumer
197
Glen O. BRECHBILL
Meet Jean Claude Elenna - The In House Perfumer
Michelyn Camen
Scent of a Woman
Author Unknown
The Nose of Guerlain
Archana Subramanian
An Interview with Natural Perfumer Roxana Villa
Author Unknown
An Interview with Johann Maria Farina
Tom Clark
Biography of Ann Gottlieb - Her Career
Author Unknown
Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour
June 2009
Author Unknown
A Life Less Ordinary
April Long
Fragrance Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand, an Interview
Julien Levy
A Visit with Linda Pilkington ( Ormonde Jayne Perfumery )
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer - Olivier Gillotin
Helene Marie Wagner
Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska
Michelyn Camen
Study Notes: Back to School
Pia Long
An Interview with Perfumer - Mathilde Laurent
Author Unknown
Fabrice Penot
Author Unknown
Scenting Women
Lim Ai Lee
The ( Not So ) Glamorous World of Fragrances
Aug. 2009
Nathan Motylinski
Comparing Notes: Carlos Benaim, Pascal Gaurin & Laurent Le Guernec
Jeb Allured
The Creative Pair from Chanel: Jacques Polge & Chrostopher Sheldrake
Author Unknown
Inside the Creative Mind of Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Perfumer - Laurent Le Guernec
Author Unknown
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Goes Bespoke
Author Unknown
198
Perfumer My Gig
Amanda Coggin
Interview with French Perfumer Blaise Mautin
Simone Shitrit
Entrevista com o Perfumista Blaise Mautin
Simone Shitrit
Interviewing Pierre Guillaume a Perfumer
Author Unknown
An Interview with Sarah Horowitz
Author Unknown
Entrevista com um Perfumista de Sucesso! Napoleão Bastos Jr.
Simone Shitrit
Interview with a Perfumer:Kristen Michèle
Sept. 2009
Violet Devereaux
Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger
Michelyn Camen
Susan Kurosawa
“One Drop Changes Everything”
Author Unknown
Sweet Scents & Classic Revivals
Katie Bird
Why Francis Kurkdjian is a Great Perfumer
Author Unknown
Interview with 7th Generation Perfumer Oliver Creed
Author Unknown
Guerlain’s Idylle Man
Eva Friede
Interview with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
Jessica Herman
Interview with Perfumer Lynn Harris
Anthony Rose
Perfume Talk with Yosh Han
Simone Shitrit
Interviewing Perfumer Spencer Krenke
Author Unknown
The Wunderkind of Perfumery - Franics Kurkdjian
Oct. 2009
Michelyn Camen
Inspiration in Perfumery
Author Unknown
Interview with Natural Perfumer Persephe
Author Unknown
The Scent of a Designer: Purple Couches?
Elva Ramirez
199
Glen O. BRECHBILL
An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer
Author Unknown
Interview with Fragrance Designer Raymond Matts
Author Un
Smell is Memory Insists Perfumer Thierry Wasser
Author Unnown
Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer - Roger Broudoux
Author Unknown
Emperor of an Invisible Kingdom - Paris Perfumer Richard Fraysse
dpa
Interview - Synthetics to Shalimar - Chandler Burr
Nina Sinatra
Mathilde Laurent Respons to Questions
Author Unknown
Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux
Michelyn Camen
Designer - Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview
Author Unknown
An Interview with Perfumer Delphine Jelk
Author Unknown
The Rising Star: Inerview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier
Author Unknown
First Person - ‘I can Identify 1,000 Different Scents’
Rob Sharp
Entrevista: Givaudan Perfumista Thierry Bessard
Author Unknown
Glamorous Inspirations
Archana Subramanian
Interview with Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva
Romantic Notes - Interview with Perfumer Dominique Ropion
Wong Li Za
Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci
Michelyn Camen
An Interview with a Natural Perfumer Dominique Durbana
Author Unknown
Perfumier Stephane Humbert Lucas Discusses Nez
Elizabeth Monson
Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot
Mel Cornford
Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen
Michelyn Camen
200
The Scent Detective - How to Sniff Out Fragrances
Dec. 2009
Maggie Bullock
Creating the First Fragrance of the 21st Century
Author Unknown
The Power of Fragrance
Sarah Maisey
Interview with Perfumer - François-Raphaël Balestra
Anthéa Gutknecht
Thierry Wasser, a Considerable Interview
Author Unknown
Interview - Della Chuang
Simone Shitrit
2010
Natural Perfumers Wish You a Happy Holiday
Author Unknown
Terry Trucco
Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview
Author Unknown
Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Givaudan Senior Perfumer
Breaking the Mould
Libby Banks
Symrise: Flavours and Fragrances
Lim Yan Wen
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Mike Parrott
Grant Osborne
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Beverley Bayne
Grant Osborne
An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, David Ruskin
Grant Osborne
Memories of Bint el Sudan
Alison Bate
Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy
Michelyn Camen
Renowned Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel
Author Unknown
Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview
Feb. 2010
Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
201
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Art of Natural Perfumery
Tatiana Serafin
A Short Interview with Perfumer - Daniel Vaudd
Author Unknown
An Interview with Alec Lawless of Essentially Me
Walker Minton
Meet the Green Goddesses of Natural Perfume
Michelyn Camen
DelRae Roth - an Interview
Author Unknown
Perfumer - Francis Kurkdjian - An Interview
Author Unknown
The Prize of Luxury ( Interview with Erwin Creed )
Author Unknown
A Beautiful Mind
Viola Levy
An Interview with Perfumer Will Andrews
Author Unknown
Interview with a Perfumer Andy Tauer
Author Unknown
Perfumery Professions - Marie Petit, Naming
Author Unknown
Natural Perfumer - Liza Zorn, an Interview
Author Unknown
Say It With Scent
Stephanie Rivers
Choosing the Right Scent: Artisian Perfumer Frederic Malle
Nana-Adwoa Ofori
Sweet Stank of Innovation
Linda Tischler
Meet Arthur Burnham, A Perfumer
Author Unknown
Alexander Lee - An American Perfume Student in Paris
Author Unknown
A Rose by Another Name
April 2010
Corby Kummer
Perfumer - Rodrigo Flores- Roux - An Interview
Author Unknown
Yosh Han, The Magic of Custom Scents
Jenn Klein
Interview - Life Is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett
Author Unknown
Perfumery Professions: Stéphane Piquart, “Sourcer”
Author Unknown
202
Jean-Claude Ellena’s Latest Reflections on Perfumery
Interview with Natural Perfumer - Ayala Sender
Author Unknown
June 2010
Interview- Maurice Roucel, Master Perfumer
Anne Lueneburger
Interview: Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato
JoSelle Vanderhott
L’Osmothèque Preserving The Past To Ensure The Future
Sarah Cotton
Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview
Author Unknown
The Nose Knows - Sandra Anderson natural
Kim Triegaardt
Interview with Perfumer & Owner Tanja Bochhnig
Author Unknown
An Interview With Botanical Natural Perfumer Justine Crane
Author Unknown
Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes How They Smell
Avery Gilbert
Tranquil Notes
Patsy Kam
Marie Benoît’s Diary
Marie Benoit
A More Perfect Scent - A Perfume Addict Goes Organic
Amanda Walker
Talking Nose
Nicola
The Lost Interview with Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian - Entertians in the City of Light
July 2010
Author Unknown
Eau Manny - Boxer Pacquiao Markets His Own Cologne
Gendy Alimurung
Perfumers Decrypt, How to Have a Virgin Fragrance
Marie Wright
Q&A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas
Samantha Antopol
Perfumery Professions: Françoise Donche, Givenchy’s Fragrance Expert
Author Unknown
Select the Perfect Scent for Your Wedding Day
Jessica Pauline Ogilvie
Perfumer - Jean Claude Elenna
Vir Sahghvi
203
Glen O. BRECHBILL
The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part II )
Nathan Branch
Perfumery Professions: Ann Gottlieb
Author Unknown
How Michelle Bam - Helped Miller Harris’ Business
Liz Hoggard
Aftelier: Long-Distance Bespoke Fragrance Service
Aug. 2010
Nathan Branch
The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part III )
Nathan Branch
Something Old, Something Bleu
S.S. Yoga
Questions & Answers with Legendary Chanel Perfumer
Stéphane Gaboué
Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer
Violet Devereaux
The Most Interesting Fragrances
Carla Long
Ruth Mastenbroek - Talks About Her First Eau de Parfum
Grant Osborne
The Language of Fragrance - Christoph Laudamiel
Andrew Dermont
Yosh Han Mixes Your Special Scent - Take a Whiff
Sept. 2010
Steve Rubenstein
An Audience With Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser
Persolaise
Perfumery Professions - Theirry de Baschmakoff
Author Unknown
Interview with Pierre Guillaume: Huitieme Art Perfumes
Michelyn Camen
Mandy Aftel & Andy Tauer: Letters to a Fellow Perfumer
Nathan Branch
Roja Dove - The ( Professor of Perfume )
Persolaise
Interview With a Natural Perfumer: Kristen Dunagan
Oct. 2010
Violet Devereaux
Art of Fragrance Lecture
March
Live, From New York Its Bertrand Duchaufour
Michelyn Camen
The Samurai Shopper | My Favorite Nose
S.S. Fair
Francis Kurkdjian: Recipe For a Great Perfumer
Author Unknown
204
Bois Noire or Egoiste - Chanel’s Jacques Polge Explains
Author Unknown
An Interview with Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge
Stéphane Gaboué
The Escentric World of a Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen
Nov. 2010
Michelyn Camen
Erwin Creed Thinks Finding the Right Perfume
Lauren Murrow
Herr “Professor” Geza Schoen - Gives a Chemistry Lesson
Mark Behnke
The Art of Composing Fragrance, Naturally
Yuko Fukami
Interview with Jessica September Buchanan of 1000 Flowers
Michelyn Camen
French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents at Fashion Island
Cindy McNatt
Blogging The Forbidden - Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu
Persolaise
10 Questions to Frédéric Malle
Author Unknown
Dec. 2010
Interview with Sylvie Ganter
Michelyn Camen
Behind The Fragrance
Author Unknown
Roja Dove is Making Sense of Scents
Helen Greenwood
Perfume Scent From Childhood
Andrea Klassen
Interview: Roja Dove, Perfumer
Lee Randall
Scent of a Woman - Patricia de Nicolai, 54
Nathalie Atkinson
Sweet Smell of Success
Author Unknown
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Perfume`s Creative Art - The Questions

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