la confidential - Los Angeles

THIS ISSUE: BRUNCH
BELOW: Tavern’s natural
light–filled atrium is the place
to see and be seen for
brunch on the Westside.
And on the
Seventh Day…
BRUNCH!
ABOVE: No
breakfast is
complete without
a latte, freshly
concocted
Bloody Mary
infused with bay
leaves and
rosemary, and a
basket of Chef’s
Choice pastries.
LEFT: Head
bartender
Christiaan Rollich
blends farmers
market finds to
create his
signature
cocktails.
FOR LA’S POWER CROWD, “FANCY BRUNCH” IN
BRENTWOOD HAS BECOME A HOLY SUNDAY
RITUAL. BY JEN JONES DONATELLI
“There is a relaxed
festiveness that
happens at brunch—
the space really comes
alive during that time.”
106
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA SAMPLE
S
unlight streams in through the atrium’s glass ceiling (maybe too bright for Brentwood’s power-brunch haven upon opening four years ago. Following in
some), as Tavern’s bevy of brunchgoers sip on seasonal Bellinis and nosh the footsteps of Goin and Styne’s other LA eateries (Lucques and A.O.C.), the
on Larder Cobb salads and lemon ricotta pancakes. As always, the faces restaurant carried an impressive pedigree, and Eater anointed the spot “the
are varied—pick a Sunday and the crowd likely includes recognizable regulars new black” after Anna Wintour visited early on. Plus, the time was just right to
like Reese Witherspoon and James L. Brooks alongside Brentwood socialites, introduce a stylish new concept in Brentwood, according to Stacey Snider,
food bloggers clamoring to try chef Suzanne Goin’s latest creation, and well-to- DreamWorks SKG Studios principal partner, cochairman, and CEO.
“Brentwood has a lot of great spots, but it surprisdo soccer moms freshly showered after morning
ingly lacked a central watering hole,” says Snider, a
SoulCycle jaunts. The common denominator? A
regular who lives nearby. “As food-conscious an
sense of foodie-fueled fun—driven by one of the
area as this is, there was this vacuum. Tavern fits the
Westside’s most vibrant brunch scenes.
bill—it hits every need and addresses every mood.”
“There is a relaxed festiveness that happens at
To that end, the restaurant’s key vision has indeed
brunch at Tavern—the space really comes alive
been to accommodate virtually any type of occaduring that time,” says sommelier and co-owner
sion—whether it’s a girlie lunch date for Witherspoon
Caroline Styne. “It’s a fabulous place to hang.”
—CAROLINE STYNE
It’s not surprising that Tavern swiftly became
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WHAT TO ORDER
A pastry chef adds a layer of
sinfully rich chocolate buttercream to a
chocolate cake; a Meyer lemon crostada;
Dustin Hoffman and Anna Wintour
helped put Tavern on the map. RIGHT:
Soft-scrambled eggs with Fontina and
crème fraîche.
continued from page 106
and Mindy Kaling or a high-powered
Obama fundraising dinner. Influenced by
NYC’s Balthazar, Goin and Styne designed
Tavern with the vision of seamlessly going
from early morning through late night.
They chose a sprawling space on San
Vicente that had previously housed
Hamburger Hamlet, creating three distinctly different spaces within. In front sits
The Larder, a bustling quick-service area with a farmto-table feel; in the center, ground zero for happy
hour, the low-lit “Blue Room” (which Goin correctly calls “sexy and moody”); and in back, the
aforementioned atrium, a formal dining room
with real trees and abundant natural light.
This versatility has made Tavern a favorite
with celebs like Adam Sandler, Jennifer
Garner, Jessica Alba, and Dustin Hoffman,
as well as its loyal Westside regulars. “There
is something for everybody—it’s like a threepart restaurant,” says head bartender
Christiaan Rollich. “The thing that brings it
all together is the philosophy and integrity
with the way everything is made.”
Like Lucques and A.O.C., Tavern’s menu
changes seasonally; most everything is made
from scratch each day. Rollich likens the kitchen
to a “nonstop machine” constantly in motion—
from the bakers who work overnight to the pastry
chefs who show up before sunrise. Even Rollich
often reports to work at 4:30 AM to start making
fresh juices for The Larder and prepping his market-fresh ingredients and homemade liqueurs.
continued on page 110
108
Signature brunch dishes include soft-scrambled eggs with
Fontina and crème fraîche; bacon-wrapped dates stuffed
with Parmesan; and brisket hash. Co-owner Caroline
Styne’s personal favorite is the smoked fish plate, served
with a rye baguette: “It’s the perfect alternative to a
bagel,” she says. “Suzanne [Goin] uses this really delicious
goat cheese instead of traditional cream cheese, and the
lovely capers take it beyond.” Thirsty? Order a classic gin
fizz cocktail, or try the restaurant’s top-selling “Tavern on
the Green” (a Thai-inspired cane rum cocktail with basil,
lime, jalapeño, and cilantro).
BEST TABLES
IN THE HOUSE
Think outside the box, as the four corners of Tavern’s
inviting atrium house the restaurant’s most desirable
tables. Many regulars consider the atrium itself the best
place to sit, an ironic turn of events according to chef
Suzanne Goin. “The atrium was the biggest mess when we
got the space—it was actually closed and used for storage
[by Hamburger Hamlet],” she says. “It’s funny that what
was initially the biggest design challenge ended up being
the most sought-after of the spaces.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA SAMPLE (CHEF, CROSTADA); MICHAEL BEZJIAN/WIREIMAGE (HOFFMAN); BEN GABBE/GETTY IMAGES (WINTOUR)
FROM TOP:
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Bloody Good
ALL HAIL THE MARY—THREE LA MIXOLOGISTS
GIVE THEIR INSIDE SECRETS TO MAKING THE
CLASSIC COCKTAIL. BY JEN JONES DONATELLI
D
continued from page 108
liqueurs. “There are no shortcuts to what we do,”
says Rollich. “Everything has to be perfect.”
Though the restaurant stays steadily busy from
opening until closing, brunch is one of the busiest
service times. “Brunch is sort of becoming a big
deal here,” says executive pastry chef Christina
Olufson, adding that the brunch menu receives the
most Yelp reviews. The buzz around brunch is
partly due to Olufson herself—her “Chef’s Choice”
basket is one of the most popular picks, featuring
treats like monkey bread, almond croissants, and
bacon-topped pecan sticky buns. She also uses a
Pacojet to experiment with different ice cream flavors, using fresh produce from the Santa Monica
Farmers Market; her latest flavors are lemon verbena ice cream and labne (strained yogurt)
sherbet.
The hard work seems to be paying off for Goin’s
young protegé. Named one of Zagat’s “2012 Los
Angeles 30 Under 30,” Olufson is now getting her
due. And she’s not alone—it’s been a big year in general for the Tavern family. Along with relocating
A.O.C. in February, Goin and Styne have
expanded The Larder brand to include three additional locations (one at LAX, one in LA, and one in
Beverly Hills), and they’re getting ready to open a
wholesale bakery on Robertson to accommodate
the high demand from the new Larder offshoots,
plus Goin is releasing her first cookbook in seven
years this October, focused on dishes from A.O.C.
and featuring wine notes by Caroline Styne. “We
actually didn’t mean for it all to happen in one year,
but it just sort of fell into place like that,” says Goin.
“We feel like [The Larder] is a concept that works in
every neighborhood.” But fear not, brunch aficionados—home base will always be Brentwood, where
stylish Sunday repasts reign. 11648 San Vicente
Blvd., LA, 310-806-6464; tavernla.com LAC
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Fashionably Infused Mr. C Beverly Hills
Summertime is Bloody Mary time at this chic hotel. “At our Sunday
pool parties, it’s one of our best-selling drinks,” says restaurant manager Daiano Morassi. When mixing Marys, Morassi’s secret is to use
rich, high-quality San Marzano tomatoes from Naples rather than
tomato juice. Infusion is also key—first thing in the morning, Morassi
dresses the tomatoes in celery salt, fresh-ground pepper, Tabasco, and
Worcestershire sauce so they’ll be full flavored by serving time. His
other trick? Don’t use ice inside the Bloody Mary—instead, shake it on
ice and strain. “Adding ice to a thick juice makes it watery,” Morassi
explains. 1224 Beverwil Dr., LA, 310-277-2800; mrchhotels.com
Va-Va-Voom Vegan Crossroads
Making a vegan Bloody Mary doesn’t have to mean sacrificing big flavor. To make the Mary mix at Crossroads, Jones utilizes freshly shaved
horseradish, fresh-squeezed tomato and lemon juices, soy sauce, dry
mustard, onion and garlic powder, and a gluten-free, vegan
Worcestershire sauce. Other unique touches include quinoa-based
vodka and pickled celery root as garnish. Yet Jones’s top-secret weapon
is celery seed: “Lots of premade mixes and Bloody Marys I’ve tried are
missing this ingredient; you should add it if you’re making your own,”
he advises. 8284 Melrose Ave., LA, 323-782-9245; crossroadskitchen.com
The perfect
Bloody Mary is
a brunch
must-drink!
Posh Spicey Fig
At Fig, brunch revelers have two options for sipping: the traditional
Bloody Mary and the Bloody Maria (made with reposado tequila and
served with a bacon-salted rim). Bartender Angela Tabora’s philosophy is essentially “the more spice, the better,” adding horseradish and
both Tabasco and Tapatio hot sauces to that end. She’s also a big
believer in mixing things up. “Feel free to explore—be creative,” urges
Tabora. Some of her favorite variations include substituting sake and
wasabi for vodka and Tabasco, or making a homemade gazpacho mix
with peppers, tomatoes, and onions. Fairmont Hotel & Bungalows,
Santa Monica, 310-319-3111; figsantamonica.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TK; ILLUSTRATION BY TK
Luscious cherry pie à la
mode with almond ice
cream and cornmeal
cookie crumbles.
eemed the world’s most complex cocktail, the Bloody Mary is
essentially guaranteed to pep up any palate—thanks to its
potent blend of vodka, vegetables, and liquid heat. Though
certain staples like tomato juice and Worcestershire sauce are a given,
the recipe is ripe for experimentation. Down at Manhattan Beach’s
MB Post, the cocktail is garnished with a hard-boiled quail egg, caper
berry, and a slice of picante salami, while the new DIY Bloody Mary
Bar at Public Kitchen and Bar includes options like artichoke hearts,
jumbo shrimp, and Spanish chorizo. “It’s like a salad in a cocktail
glass,” explains Scot Jones, executive chef at Crossroads. “People love
to add that extra kick.” But with so many takes on this classic brunch
cocktail, how can you be sure your own recipe is on point? Get some
tips from three of LA’s top Mary makers.
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