bali to komodo

TRIP REPORT
BALI TO KOMODO
29 October to 7 November 2014
MV Mermaid I, Rinca
Komodo Dragons
By tour leader Dr Chas Anderson
WildWings / WildOceans
Tel:
0117-9658-333
Email: tours@wildwings.co.uk
Web: www.wildwings.co.uk
Sperm Whale off Lombok
BALI TO KOMODO
Indonesia, 29 Oct to 7 Nov 2014
Summary
A wonderful 10-day wildlife cruise from Bali to Komodo and back. There were plenty of cetacean
sightings, with ten species recorded in all, including hundreds of Spotted, Spinner, Fraser’s and
Bottlenose Dolphins, as well as Melon-headed Whales and Sperm Whales. Seabirds were also
plentiful, with key species including Abbott’s Booby, Streaked Shearwater, Bulwer’s Petrel, Golden
Bosunbird and Christmas Island Frigatebird. While birding on land we picked up several very nice
species including Orange-footed Scrubfowl (=Megapode), Yellow-crested Cockatoo and Helmeted
Friarbird. However, the big terrestrial attraction was the Komodo Dragon. We had walks ashore on
both Komodo itself and Rinca, with many Dragons seen both times. For many, though, the best
encounters were on a beach at the southern tip of Rinca where we could view the Dragons from the
safety of our launches, just a few feet offshore. There was also plenty of time for snorkelling (and
diving for some), which was world-class. The coral reefs were magnificent, and diversity of reef
fishes overwhelming. But highlight must be our visits to Manta Alley at the southern end of Komodo
Island, where we twice enjoyed fabulous encounters with Manta Rays. All this on the very
comfortable MV Mermaid I, where we were pampered by the delightful crew, and overindulged by
the chefs.
Day 1, Wednesday 29 Oct 2014
After arriving in Bali at different times we all
converged on our expedition vessel, MV
Mermaid I, in the early afternoon. The engines
were soon started and we were off, with our
safety briefing and orientation talk still
underway.
the clouds over the land dissolved we had
great views of the classic volcanic cone of
Gunung Agung (3142m). After the glorious
sunset there was time for a shower, a leisurely
drink for those who wanted, and dinner.
Day 2, Thursday 30 Oct 2014
What a fantastic day! We had sailed through
the night, past the north of Lombok, and as
dawn broke we were still heading east, off the
north coast of Sumbawa. The sea was calm
and the cetacean sightings started early, with a
glimpse of distant glimmering shapes. They
were dolphins, and as we approached they
rushed in to bowride. Now we could make out
their short snouts and small triangular dorsal
fins – Fraser’s Dolphins.
MV Mermaid I
We were soon out in the channel between Bali
and Nusa Penida, and heading northeast
towards Lombok. Among the birds seen were
three
gorgeous
golden
White-tailed
Tropicbirds (aka Golden Bosunbird), a small
flock of Bridled Terns, a trio of Brown
Boobies and a couple of migrating Barn
Swallows. Sailing up the coast of Bali we
passed the busy ferry port of Padangbai, and as
Fraser’s Dolphin
There must have been over 300 Fraser’s in all,
and then we noticed some slightly larger and
darker animals, Melon-headed Whales, of
which there were perhaps 30-40. The whole
mass of dolphins was moving slowly
westwards, and we went with them, allowing
group after group to bowride. Eventually it
was time to move on, and we turned back on
course.
After the morning’s rush of cetaceans, this
afternoon started rather slowly. But eventually
we found some schools of Spotted Dolphins
on the way in to Satonda. The clouds over
Sumbawa cleared as we approached, giving us
our first view of Tambora (2935m), the
volcano that in 1815 produced perhaps the
greatest eruption in recorded history. At
Satonda there was the choice of a dive or a
snorkel on the nearby reef (which among other
things produced a Blue-spotted Stingray, a
host of Anemonefishes, and numerous
Featherstars emerging to feed at dusk), or a
trip ashore (to see the crater lake, with roosting
Fruit Bats and several birds).
Melon-headed Whales
Next up, a big group of Spotted Dolphins
(well spotted, Kenny!). They were spread out
over a wide area, but again small subgroups
readily came in to bowride. After leaving the
Spotteds it wasn’t long before our next
encounter, this time with an active group of
Common Bottlenose Dolphins. Later, looking
at our photos, we noticed a single Fraser’s
Dolphin in amongst them.
Bottlenose Dolphin
By now we were approaching Moyo Island,
and the site of our first snorkel, Angel Reef.
The reef flat here is carpeted with dense coral
growths, and supports a dazzling variety of
reef fishes. But a real highlight here is the
Banded Sea-snake (Colubrina laticauda), and
we were able to follow several as they hunted
over the shallow reef. Another attraction,
found further round the reef slope, is the dense
meadow of Garden Eels (Gorgasia
maculata).
Once we were back on board, lunch was ready
and MV Mermaid got underway. We headed
around the top of Moyo to Satonda Island.
Banded Sea-snake
In addition to the landbirds on Satonda, out at
sea today there were Red-footed Boobies,
Brown Boobies, a Red-necked Phalarope,
Bridled Terns (one being chased by a
Pomarine Skua), a Lesser Frigatebird and a
Christmas Island Frigatebird. But the most
interesting birds seen at sea today were
migrant landbirds, including Barn Swallow,
Pacific Swift (=Fork-tailed Swift), and a most
unexpected Northern Hawk-owl (=Northern
Boobook) flying resolutely SW, which twice
alighted (briefly) on the Mermaid. This owl
breeds in East Asia and is a regular winter
visitor to Wallacea, but was still a pleasant
surprise for us. Back on board after our
various activities, there was just time to grab a
hot shower or a cold drink, and head up to the
upper deck to watch the last of the sunset and
the first of the Fruit Bats heading across from
their roost in Satonda to their feeding grounds
on Sumbawa.
Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 1)
Back on board, breakfast was soon ready and
we were off. After leaving Sangeang, it was
not long before we had our next cetacean
sighting: a mixed group of Fraser’s and
Risso’s Dolphins. The Fraser’s bowrode, but
the Risso’s avoided us. Several did, however,
lift their flukes up in the air, in their
characteristic style. Soon after leaving this big
group we found another small school of
Risso’s Dolphins, but they also avoided us, so
we moved on.
Day 3, Friday 31 Oct 2014
Another fabulous day! We had sailed
overnight, and as the sun came up we were
still underway, approaching Sangeang Island.
This is an active volcano, with smoke still
issuing from the crater. Near the island we
found an active group of Melon-headed
Whales and Fraser’s Dolphins. And a single
Lesser Frigatebird sailed overhead. Soon
after anchoring we were into the dinghies for
our morning snorkel or dive, at the site known
as ‘Hot Rocks’. Here gas bubbles up from the
sea floor, and the underlying rocks are, if not
exactly hot, then certainly warm. Soft corals
were especially abundant here. And on the
vertical surfaces of the rocks, bright orange
Tubastrea corals were thriving. Other
highlights included an extremely well
camouflaged
Scorpionfish,
several
Nudibranchs, and an Octopus.
Nudibranch sea-slug (Nembrotha cristata)
Near Gili Banta we came across an
aggregation of some 80+ Red-footed Boobies,
feeding in association with a large group of
Spotted Dolphins and there were Spinner
Dolphins too. We spent a long time here,
enjoying the Spotteds’ bowriding and
energetic leaps. By the time we left, it was
time for late lunch. Soon afterwards we
anchored in Mota Bay, at the northern end of
Komodo Island. All into the dinghies for
snorkelling or diving on the nearby reef, which
was covered with luxuriant growths of hard
corals, soft corals and sea fans. There were
numerous schools of fish, giant sea anemones
with Anemonefishes, a giant Batfish and
Sweetlips.
As we moved on from this site, the breeze,
which had picked up earlier in the afternoon,
died away completely, and the sea became
mirror-calm. Further round the coast we
spotted our final cetaceans of the day, a small
school of Spinner Dolphins. The sun set
behind Komodo.
Volcanic gas at ‘Hot Rocks’
Birds today included a smattering of Rednecked Phalaropes, one Lesser Frigatebird,
a Whiskered Tern which flew around the
boat first thing, a Barn Swallow, Pacific
Swifts, White-bellied Sea-eagle and an
unidentified Buzzard.
was perhaps the most diverse we had seen so
far. I counted nine species of Angelfish alone.
There were also Blacktip Reef Sharks, and
several Hawksbill Turtles, feeding on the
reef.
Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 2).
And after dinner, cake: Happy Birthday Dave!
Day 4, Saturday 1 Nov 2014
We woke to a lovely calm, sunny day,
anchored off Rinca Island. The dinghies took
us on the short run ashore, where we were met
by a small troop of Long-tailed Macaques. At
the ranger station, our guides were waiting,
armed with stout forked sticks to ward off any
over-interested Komodo Dragons. And there
were plenty about, with five medium-sized
individuals, plus a couple of smaller ones, just
nearby. A walk with the rangers through the
woods produced another Dragon, this time a
large female on her nesting area. The nests are
dug out initially by Megapodes (=Orangefooted Scrubfowl), a pair of which were
scratching through the undergrowth just
nearby. Other birds seen included Yellowspectacled White-eye, Great Tit, Wallacean
Drongo, Imperial Green Pigeon and Largebilled Crow. There were Timor Deer (Rusa)
too.
Back on board, there was time for a cooling
shower before a very welcome breakfast. Just
as we had finished, and were getting underway
a White-bellied Sea-eagle swooped down to
pick up some morsel from the sea surface just
alongside. Our cruise across to Tatawa Besar
island produced two sightings of Indo-pacific
Bottlenose Dolphins, both small groups
hunting along reef edges for fish.
Swedish Flag Angelfish
At Tatawa Besar we enjoyed a superb snorkel
(and dive for two) on the long reef. With
wonderful visibility and bright midday light,
the corals looked magnificent. And the fishlife
Hawksbill Turtle
Back on board it was time for lunch. Then we
were off, cruising across to Gililawa Darat
island, for our second snorkel and dive. Here
the visibility was not quite so good as before,
but the corals were if anything even more
impressive. And the fishlife again was
stunning. Among the several highlights: a
really giant Bumphead Parrotfish, a
filterfeeding
Sea
Cucumber,
Spotfin
Lionfish and more Hawksbill Turtles.
It was now time to start heading towards our
night’s anchorage at Komodo. As the sun set,
we made our way southwards over the mirror
calm sea. In such conditions we were able to
spot no fewer than three large Manta Rays.
But highlight for many was a new bird for the
trip, Streaked Shearwater.
Evening talk: Whales of Indonesia.
Day 5, Monday 2 Nov 2014
An early-ish start with a run ashore in the
dinghies to Komodo Island. We went in two
groups: one with birders who wanted to spend
more time on the island, and the rest for a
shorter dragon walk. Both groups had close
encounters with hungry and persistent
Komodo Dragons. There were also Timor
Deer (=Rusa) and the birders had a nice clutch
of sightings, including Yellow-crested
Cockatoo, Golden Whistler, Lemon-bellied
White-eye, Green Junglefowl, Wallacean
Drongo, Flame-breasted Sunbird and
Helmeted Friarbird. Both walks ended at the
small market, which offered a tempting range
of locally carved dragons.
we turned in towards our anchorage at
Komodo.
Evening talk: Alfred Russel Wallace.
Day 6, Tuesday 3 Nov 2014
After breakfast we set off into the deep-water
Linta Strait. We spotted Spinner Dolphins
almost immediately and spent a little time
them, before moving on towards the southern
tip of Komodo Island. Here we anchored and
set out for our snorkel or dive at Manta Alley.
The Mantas were moving from the Alley
round to the outer rocks, so we moved around
too. Within seconds of jumping in there were
Mantas beneath us. For some time there were
just ones and twos, but gradually the numbers
built up, and before the last of us got out of the
water there perhaps 20 swimming along the
reef. For the divers too there was a continuous
succession of Mantas. Wow!
Manta Ray
We all returned to the boat abuzz with
excitement, and ready for our late lunch. As
we moved off, we passed through a school of
Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins. Offshore
there were hundreds of Red-necked
Phalaropes,
and
good
numbers
of
Frigatebirds. But our big sighting was of
Spotted Dolphins. We found an enormous
school, perhaps 600-strong, charging across
the ocean. As we travelled with them, small
groups rushed in to ride our bow. We finally
left this superpod, and headed back in to the
Linta Strait. Despite the calm conditions we
did not find any cetaceans, and as the sun set
The sea was mirror-calm again when we woke.
At 0730 we were off in the dinghies for our
morning snorkel and dive at Pink Beach. The
wide reef was covered with soft corals and
hydrozoans, as well as a smattering of sea
fans. A big Cuttlefish and a couple of
Hawksbill Turtles also kept us happy.
Heading out into Linta Strait we passed the
regular group of Spinner Dolphins. As usual,
they were dozy after their night’s feeding, and
avoided us when we approached. So we left
them and sailed out into the deep water. Here
we found a largish group of Indo-pacific
Bottlenose Dolphins, which gave several
good views.
As we rounded the southern tip of Rinca,
Brown Boobies were flying in to what
appeared like nest sites on the steep cliffs of
Pulau Nusakode. Offshore, we found a large
mixed school of Spotted and Spinner
Dolphins. They were charging across the
ocean, and we turned to travel with them. In
due course we left them and continued on our
way. There were thousands of Red-necked
Phalaropes, more Brown Boobies and some
Common Terns, but unfortunately despite the
continuing flat calm conditions we did not find
any more cetaceans.
We completed a wide circuit, arriving back at
Horseshoe Bay at the very south of Rinca in
time for our afternoon excursions. First, a trip
to the beach for everyone to see the Komodo
Dragons. There were three out on the beach,
and they lurched down to the very shoreline as
we approached. Once everyone had had a good
look, and a chance to take plenty of photos, it
was back to the main boat. We then diverged,
with some going for a snorkel (enjoying Bluespotted Stingray, soft corals and featherstars),
others for a dive, and the rest back to the
beach. There we spent time again with the
large Dragons at one end of the beach.
However, another couple of slightly smaller
Dragons had wandered on to the other end. On
our way back to the boat we diverted to have a
look at them. They were busy eyeing each
other up for a fight, hissing and then erupting
into a fierce but brief tussle. There was still
time for another change of boats, with an
opportunity for one dinghy to go in search of
birds, while the other headed back to the
Dragons.
greater numbers. There may have been 20 or
more in our small area, some up to nearly 3m
across, with up to 5 in view at one time. After
over an hour we reluctantly pulled ourselves
out of the water, and returned to the boat,
tingling with excitement.
Komodo Dragons tussling
After a superb sunset, bats appeared in the
lights behind the boat. Those who wanted
headed off for an exciting night dive on a
nearby reef.
Day 7, Tuesday 4 Nov 2014
We left Rinca before dawn, to make the
crossing over to Komodo. With a calm sea we
made good time, although we did divert for a
large school of Spotted Dolphins, which
rushed in to bowride.
Spotted Dolphins
At south Komodo we anchored near Manta
Alley, although such a current was running
that we had to move anchorage before the
Captain was happy. A check of the site
showed that the current was very strong
indeed, so we decided to wait until it
moderated. Just 30 minutes later we were in
the water. Within seconds we had seen
Mantas swimming underneath. Several were
passing to and fro along the reef edge beneath
us. For a few minutes they seemed to
disappear, but then they reappeared in even
Manta Ray
After breakfast we set off, up the Sape Strait,
along the west coast of Komodo. There were a
few Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins as we
left our anchorage, then a large mixed school
of Spotted and Spinner Dolphins, with
Lesser Frigatebirds in attendance. Not long
afterwards we found a few more Indo-pacific
Bottlenose. After that we had several Sailfish,
jumping and swimming at the surface. But the
highlight of this transit was undoubtedly
provided by the seabirds. There were several
Bulwer’s Petrels on passage, flying south and
west down the Strait. And just after noon we
spotted a Wilson’s Storm-petrel, which
approached close enough for photos to show
the characteristic yellow webbing on the black
feet. This was interesting enough, but just 10
minutes later we approached a white-looking
booby sitting on the water. Only as we passed
alongside and it took off did we realise that it
was an Abbott’s Booby – bird of the trip for
some. Later there were more Red-footed
Boobies, a second Wilson’s Storm-petrel,
and a distant viewing of a Pomarine Skua
chasing what looked like another Abbott’s
Booby. And there were land birds too, with
both Barn Swallows and Pacific Swifts
crossing over from Sumbawa to Komodo.
Off the northern tip of Komodo some distant
splashing drew us offshore. It was another
large school of Spotted Dolphins, with Redfooted Boobies in attendance. Again they
rushed in to bowride, providing some
wonderful photo opportunities. With the day
drawing on, it was time to turn towards our
next anchorage, off the island of Gililawa.
This is the setting off point to visit the offshore
pinnacle of Crystal Rock for our late afternoon
snorkel or dive. And what a great one! With
superb visibility, luxuriant soft corals and
abundant fish life, it really is a cracking site.
Highlight for the divers were the sharks – with
some 7-8 Whitetip Reef Sharks and one
Grey Reef Shark hanging in front of the
current point.
Evening talk: Wildlife photography, by Tom
Day 8, Wednesday 5 Nov 2014
The morning started with a snorkel or dive off
Gill Lawalaut, at Lighthouse Point. On the
boat out some spotted Indo-pacific Bottlenose
Dolphins, and a pair of Ospreys (with a
massive nest on the light post). There was also
a Spotted Kestrel on the island. The reef itself
was gorgeous – patches of hard and soft coral
interspersed with white coral sand, reflecting
the bright morning light. The current changed
at least twice during our snorkel, which made
for an interesting time in the water.
Back on board for breakfast and we were off,
heading westwards on the start of our long
transit back towards Bali. Not long after
setting off some splashes drew us towards
some Spinner Dolphins, which bowrode
exuberantly. Among the seabirds seen during
the morning were several Bulwer’s Petrels
heading SW on passage, and a single Streaked
Shearwater. Later we spotted a Wilson’s
Storm-petrel and a Skua, probably an Arctic
Skua, harassing a Red-footed Booby.
As we approached Sangeang volcano, we
could see smoke billowing from the main
crater, and a new fissure on its flank. But
before we arrived we had three more cetacean
encounters. First, a couple of prau manching
(local fishing boats) attracted our attention. As
suspected, they were fishing for tuna in
association with Spotted Dolphins, which
seemed happy to bowride. Next, a distant
sighting of a cetacean back. We moved closer
and waited, and were rewarded with two
beaked whales surfacing. We moved closer
again, and again saw them clearly at the
surface, although not quite clearly enough to
allow specific identification. Then as we made
our final approach to Sangeang a tight bunch
of dolphins surfaced directly in front of us.
They immediately moved away so we could
not be sure what they were, but once they
surfaced again we could see that they were
Fraser’s Dolphins – our fifth species for the
day.
The reef on the south side of Sangeang
provided us with a superb dive and snorkel.
The black coral sand contrasting nicely with
the corals. At depth the reef was luxuriantly
covered with corals, hydroids, sponges and an
astonishing array of featherstars, many of
which were luminous lime green. Also present
were many technicolor nudibranchs and an
orang-utan crab. Afterwards, we continued
westwards, with the sun setting over Sumbawa
ahead of us, and the full moon rising over
Sangeang astern.
Evening talk: Tuna fisheries and cetaceans.
Day 9, Thursday 6 Nov 2014
Our last full day on board, and a great one!
Mermaid had travelled overnight, and when
we woke this morning we were anchored off
Moyo Island, near the small fishing village of
Labuanhaji. There was a choice of a snorkel at
Angel Reef, or a dive at the adjacent Little
Angel Reef. For both, the water was
exceptionally clear, and at both sites there
were the same great corals, schools of fishes,
and Banded Sea-snakes. For the divers there
were also Jawfish holding eggs in their
mouths, Mantis Shrimp, and a wonderful
Lionfish.
Common Lionfish with Featherstars
Back on board, after breakfast, we were off,
heading west towards Lombok and Bali. The
sea was still calm, and got even calmer as the
day progressed. There were several seabirds
about including Brown Boobies, Bridled
Terns, at least one Pomarine Skua, a
Wilson’s Storm-petrel and several Bulwer’s
Petrels.
Our cetacean sightings started with a superbly
energetic group of Bottlenose Dolphins. After
spending some time with them, we passed
seamlessly on to a school of Spotted
Dolphins. Not long afterwards we had more
Spotted Dolphins, and then a distant sighting
of 6 or more large whales, possibly Sperm
Whales. We approached the spot where they
had been logging, but could not find them. We
waited and waited, but nothing appeared. This
was the start of a rather frustrating interlude
with perfect viewing conditions but no
cetacean sightings. Our luck finally changed
late in the afternoon, as we were approaching
Lombok. A small group of Spotted Dolphins,
Sangeang Volcano
this time with local fishing boats, caught our
attention. Then not far off the boat’s side a
mother and calf Dwarf Sperm Whale
surfaced. We watched them for some time
before noticing a much larger Sperm Whale
in the distance, which promptly fluked. But as
we made our way in that direction another
appeared, and then four more, plus a couple of
Pilot Whales, one of which spy-hopped. As
the sun dipped over Lombok, silhouetting the
giant volcano Rinjani, we had Sperm Whales
ahead in the orange glow of the setting sun,
and more astern in the glimmering silver
reflection of the full moon. What a stunning
finale!
Evening presentation: Trip video.
Day 10, Friday 7 Nov 2014
Breakfast was served as we made our final
approach to Bali. We docked at Benoa at 0800,
and disembarked soon after.
CETACEANS
During this trip we recorded a very respectable total of 48 sightings, of 10 different species:
Species
Scientific Name
Spotted Dolphin
Spinner Dolphin
Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin
Common Bottlenose Dolphin
Bottlenose Dolphin
Risso’s Dolphin
Fraser’s Dolphin
Melon-headed Whale
Pilot Whale
Sperm Whale
Dwarf Sperm Whale
Beaked Whale
Unidentified cetacean
Stenella attenuata
Stenella longirostris
Tursiops aduncus
Tursiops truncatus
Tursiops sp.
Grampus griseus
Lagenodolphis hosei
Peponocephala electra
Globicephala macrorhynchus
Physeter macrocephalus
Kogia sima
Ziphiidae
No.
Sightings
Est. no.
Individuals
14
7
2
7
1
2
5
2
1
1
1
1
4
2308
455
130
72
3
50
600
130
2
6
2
2
12
48
3772
White-tailed Tropicbird (Golden Bosun)
BIRDS
Orange-footed Scrubfowl
Green Junglefowl
Little Grebe
Bulwer’s Petrel
Streaked Shearwater
Wilson’s Storm-petrel
White-tailed Tropicbird
Abbott’s Booby
Brown Booby
Red-footed Booby
Australian Pelican
Christmas Island Frigatebird
Lesser Frigatebird
Great-billed Heron
Pacific Reef-heron
Striated Heron
Osprey
Pomarine Skua
Metallic Pigeon
Island Collared Dove
Spotted Dove
Barred Dove
Green Imperial Pigeon
Yellow-crested Cockatoo
Northern Boobook
Cave Swiftlet
Fork-tailed Swift
Collared Kingfisher
Sacred Kingfisher
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Helmeted Friarbird
Large-billed Crow
Black-naped Monarch
Barn Swallow
Brahminy Kite
White-bellied Sea-eagle
Japanese Sparrowhawk
Spotted Kestrel
Beach Thick-knee
Common Sandpiper
Whimbrel
Red-necked Phalarope
Bridled Tern
Little Tern
Gull-billed Tern
Great Crested Tern
Lesser Crested Tern
Contact details
WildWings
Tel:
01179658 333
Email: tours@wildwings.co.uk
Web: www.wildwings.co.uk
On Komodo
Pacific Swallow
Great (Cinereous) Tit
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Pied Bushchat
Golden Whistler
Yellow-spectacled White-eye
Plain-throated Sunbird
Olive-backed Sunbird
Flame-breasted Sunbird
Black-naped Oriole
Wallacean Drongo
White-breasted Wood-swallow