inYAMHILL VALLEY - News

indulge
YAMHILL VALLEY
INSIDE
2016
Champion declared
Summer Food & Drink events calendar
Catering the county
Vino esoterica
plus Dining, Happy Hour and
Memorial Weekend wine tasting guides
Celebrating life through food + drink in the Heart of Oregon Wine Country • Summer 2016
IndulgeYamhillValley.com
There’s something different here. Maybe it’s our charming historic
downtown dotted with majestic maple trees. Or maybe it’s our commitment to making the best Pinot Noir,
Pilsner, and farm-to-table cuisine on the planet. Or just maybe, it’s our unmistakable genuine friendliness
and authenticity. Whatever it is, McMinnville’s got it, and we’re waiting to share it with you. Discover
McMinnville today, and find out why a trip to the heart of Oregon wine country will keep you smiling for days.
visitm c minnville.com
2 indulge MAY 2016
Photography by Jim Fischer & Carolyn Wells-Kramer
The wild yam
WHAT'S HAPPENING? QUITE A LOT, IT TURNS OUT
OSSIE
BLADINE
is editor of
Indulge
Yamhill Valley.
PUBLISHER
Jeb Bladine
EDITOR
Ossie Bladine
WRITERS
Ossie Bladine
Matt Meador
Rockne Roll
Nicole Montesano
SALES REPRESENTATIVES
Terry Conlon, Kelly Hyder,
Janet Pilling, Amy McNeill
& Rebecca Garcia
PUBLICATION DESIGNER
Teri Gunn
GRAPHIC ARTISTS
Teri Gunn, Amber McAlary
& Kathey Sweeney
COVER PHOTO
Biscuit & Pickles Catering
503-472-5114
©2016 The News-Register
Publishing Co.
PO Box 727, McMinnville, OR 97128
Printed at Oregon Lithoprint, Inc.
All featured photos are property of the
News-Register Publishing Company.
The heart of Oregon wine country
is busier than ever and the calendar of
events continues to grow.
When Indulge launched its new
website earlier this year, a main goal
was to create an events page to become
a comprehensive source for food and
drink events in the Yamhill Valley.
So far, so good.
The wineries, breweries, chefs, farms
and craft food producers of the region
are actively coming up with new ways
to celebrate the local bounty. I was surprised by the sheer number of events as
I began filling the calendar for this summer. From 'Porchetta Nights' to outdoor
activities paired with wine, winemaker's
dinners and restaurant supper clubs to
educational classes and fundraisers.
It is pleasing to have the calendar
printed in an issue of Indulge for the
first time (See page 6). I hope readers,
locals and visitors to the Yamhill Valley
view the calendar as much an asset as I
do, and that food and drink businesses
keep us in mind when promoting their
events. As much fun (not fun) as it
can be spending hours on the Internet
tracking down events, it's always nice
to be sought out with an event or news
submission.
The events calendar also guides our
brainstorming process when coming up
with posts for the Indulge blog and social media profiles. On the blog you can
find photo galleries, news bits, event
previews and questionnaires, along
with all the content from our quarterly
print issues.
It's a step by step process to define
the Indulge Yamhill Valley brand and
product. Our family-owned newspaper
and publishing company also operated the Oregon Wine Press, the state's
industry monthly magazine with prized
reputation.
The staff working on Indulge are eager to build a similar level of reverence.
Luckily, there is an apparently endless
supply or stories to tell, dishes to photograph and landscapes to cover. And, of
course, events to inform people about.
Table of contents
FEATURES:
SUMMER FOOD & DRINK EVENTS 6
CATERING THE VALLEY 8
LA BELLEZZA DELLA SEMPLICITA 12
BURGER BRACKET 18
VINO ESOTERICA 28
A BITTERSWEET ENDEAVOR 32
GLUTEN-FREE FRIENDLY 35
COLUMNS: THE WILD YAM 3
BREW NEWS 23
AROUND THE VALLEY 38
LOCAL SECRET 40
CELLAR DWELLER 42
GUIDES:CATERING 10
DINING 20
HAPPY HOUR 24
MEMORIAL WEEKEND WINE TASTING 31
LIVING HERE 39
indulge MAY 2016 3
Best Kept Secret in Yamhill County.
Now serving Billy Bob Mike’s Pizza at the iconic Carlton Corners service station!
Billy Bob Mike’s Pizza
Pssst! Have you heard?
Our burgers were voted BEST BURGERS
in all of Yamhill Valley in 2015!
Thank you voters!
Life is
Good on
the Corner
FUELING STATION • RESTAURANT • PUB
4 indulge MAY 2016
On the corner of Yamhill & Hwy 47
503.852.7439
MON–THURS 6:00AM–9:00PM
FRI & SAT 6:00AM–10:00PM
SUN 7:00AM–9:00PM
www.CarltonCorners.com
indulge MAY 2016 5
Summer
FOOD & DRINK
JUNE
MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND
5. 27-30
Throughout the valley
One of the two busiest weekends in Oregon wine country. For individual events listings, visit oregonwinepress.
com/event.
SUPPER CLUB
6.4
Red Ridge Farms, Dayton
Menu created by Chef Devon
Chase of Portland’s Hamlet.
WINEMAKER’S DINNER
6.8
Spirit Mountain Casino,
Grand Ronde
Willamette Valley Vineyards
winemaker Joe Ibrahim pairs
wines with dinner created
by Spirit Mountain Casino
chefs.
SUNDAY SOMMELIER
6.12
Brooks Wines, Amity
Studying plant biology and
vine physiology.
REBECCA’S PINOT NOIR
VERTICAL TASTING
6.18
Kramer Vineyards, Gaston
Owner and vintner Keith
Kramer discusses history and
range of expression spanning
six years.
VINEYARD TOUR &
AL FRESCO LUNCH
6.18
Red Ridge Farms / Durant
Vineyards, Dayton
Behind-the-scenes look with
owner Paul Durant.
DINNER & VERTICAL
TASTING
6.18
Winderlea Estate Tasting Room
Celebrating the final release of Pinot Noir from the
Juliard Vineyard, with fiveyear vertical dinner prepared
by Chef Paul Bachand of
Recipe.
MAKE YOUR OWN PIZZA
6.18
Winter's Hill Estate, Dayton
Red Hills Market is firing up
their wood-fire oven for your
own pie creations.
PORKLANDIA
6.18
Downtown Carlton
Celebration of all things
piggy. Special sips and tastes
at various places.
SMOKIN PINOTS
6.18
Solena Estate, Yamhill
Pinots served with threecourse, BBQ-style dinner.
FLIGHTS & BITES
6.18
ArborBrook Vineyards, Newberg
Eats by Phat Cart food cart,
music, yard games.
FATHER’S DAY LUNCH
6.19
Youngberg Hill, McMinnville
Menu created with dads in
mind, music and views.
PAWS FOR PINOT II
6.19
Hyland Estates, Dundee
Wine tasting benefitting
Oregon Dog Rescue.
PIE FEST
6.25, 7.23, 8.27
Bella Luna Patisserie, Yamhill
Free pie, entertainment, food
trucks and more.
VC SUPPER SERIES
6.25, 7.30
Valley Commissary,
McMinnville
See valleycommissary.com
for menu.
JULY
BARREL TASTING
7.2
Kramer Vineyard, Gaston
Taste how Pinot Noirs from
the 2015 vintage are coming
along, with music and food
for purchase.
More online
For times, prices, addresses and more listings, and to stay up to date on upcoming culinary and wine country events at
www.indulgeyamhillvalley.com/events. GET LISTED by submitting event information to indulge@yamhillvalley.com.
6 indulge MAY 2016
FUELED BY FINE WINE
PRE-RACE DINNER
7.9
Winderlae Estate Tasting
Room, Dundee
Appetizers and family style,
three-course meal prepared
by Chef Shiloh Ficek.
FUELED BY FINE WINE
7.10
Stoller Family Estate, Dayton
Half marathon through
wine country followed by
wine tasting from over 20
wineries.
VINEYARD HIKE
7.16, 8.6
Twelve Oaks Estate, Sherwood
Walk the vines that produce
two-thirds of Anne Amie
wines.
WINEMAKER DINNER
UNDER THE STARS
7.16
Kramer Vineyards, Gaston
Catered by White Pepper.
CARLTON HISTORIAL
PROGRESSIVE DINNER
7.23
Downtown Carlton
A six-stop tour with wine
and food pairing along the
way, complete with history
lessons of buildings that
today make unique tasting
rooms, wineries and shops.
COUNTER CULTURE
7.28
Anne Amie Vineyards, Carlton
“A Celebration of Urban
Street Food and International
Wines” to kickoff IPNC.
INTERNATIONAL PINOT
NOIR CELEBRATION
7.29-31
Linfield College, McMinnville
Seminars, walkaround tasting
and unforgettable meals, with
plenty of corresponding dinners and events throughout
the region. Weekend $1,195,
Salmon Bake $225, Sunday
Passport to Pinot $125.
BREWS & BBQ
7.29
Downtown Newberg
Just the thing for a hot summer evening.
AUGUST
LADIES NIGHT
8.4
Downtown Carlton
Food and drink specials at
more than a dozen locations.
MUSIC BENEFIT
8.11
Youngberg Hill Vineyards,
McMinnville
Concert by Aaron Meyers and
friends, benefitting Linfield
College music programs.
Wine & beer available for purchase, outside food welcome.
COURY COCKTAIL HOUR
8.11, 4-6pm
Hyland Estates, Dundee
Taste several vintages of
Hyland’s signature Pinot Noir
with gourmet appetizers.
ITALY IN THE VALLEY
8.21
Cana’s Feast Winery, Dundee
Oregon wineries gather
on the lawn to serve their
Northwest take on classic
Italian Wines, with music
and a light lunch.
SUNDAY SOMMELIER
8.21
Brooks Wines, Amity
Studying biodynamic
practices in the vineyard.
BOUNTY OF
YAMHILL COUNTY
8.26-28
Throughout the valley
See page 38 for info.
SANGIOVESE GROSSO
DINNER
8.27
Cana’s Feast Winery, Dundee
Meal prepared by Chef
Wendy Bennett and paired
with several vintages of
Tuscany-style varietal.
indulge MAY 2016 7
Keeler Estate Winery . Rockne Roll
8 indulge MAY 2016
Biscuit and Pickles Catering's Dustin Joseph plates a course during a private event at the recently opened Hazelfern Cellars north of Newberg in April.
Catering
THE VALLEY
“Some places will tell you they have a fully
equipped kitchen and you’ll show up and it's a
1970s stovetop range with no hood system.”
Catering has been around
as long as people have wanted to eat somewhere that
wasn’t either a restaurant or
their own home. The Yamhill
Valley has seen an increase
in new catering companies
recently as the wine industry
grows exponentially.
“There’s always the need
for food to go with wine,”
explains Janet Bleck of The
Rogue Gourmet Catering in
Newberg. “Every day, I read
about a new winery that’s
opened. There’s a lot of calls
for catering at the wineries.”
And just as the quality
of local wine is recognized
more every day, the superiority of the food they serve is
a calling card for so much of
the rapidly growing catering industry in the area. The
Yamhill Valley’s best chefs
are increasingly becoming
the valley’s best caterers.
“What we’re getting
to now is showing that
chefs are caterers. For us,
it’s much more of a chefdriven world,” explains
Photos and story by ROCKNE ROLL
Jesse Kincheloe of Valley
Commissary in McMinnville.
“I’m stoked for it. As amazing as the wine is, the food
should be amazing.”
The transition from cooking in a successful brickand-mortar to cooking for a
successful catering operation
is not necessarily seamless.
Bleck explains that, other
than the basic technical
and culinary skills, the two
worlds are quite different.
“It’s apples and oranges.
Quantity cooking is a very
specialized field. You’ve
got to know your stuff. In
a restaurant, you have the
ability to cook something to
order and then it’s immediately consumed,” she said.
“In catering, it's completely
different. You can’t go on
site and cook everything
from scratch. You have
to know the chemistry of
food. There’s so much more
involved in catering chefing
than regular chefing.”
The key is organization,
because the logistics
of cooking food and serving
it on unfamiliar terrain —
metaphorically or literally —
can easily be overwhelming.
“Logistically, you have
to know everything,”
explains Dustin Joseph of
Biscuit & Pickles Catering in
McMinnville. “If you’re not
an organized person, you’re
going to get lost.”
The preparation is also
immense. For a recent
20-person dinner, scheduled to start at 6 p.m. on
a Saturday night, Joseph
started at 10 a.m. Biscuit
and Pickles is based in the
kitchen at Pura Vida in
McMinnville, where Joseph
had previously stocked all
the ingredients for four
courses, plus appetizers.
“If there’s pureed parsnips
on there, if there’s braised
meat, if there’s salmon or
halibut, there’s cleaning and
portioning; I’ll get all those
things set, wrapped up and
ready to go into coolers,” he
explained.
Continued on page 10
indulge MAY 2016 9
Continued from page 9
After four hours of work,
the process shifts to loading
all the dishes — some nearly
finished, some still as raw
ingredients — for the ride to
the event site; in this case,
Hazelfern Cellars outside
Newberg. The loading is a crucial step: If Joseph happened
to forget something that isn’t
available on site, he’d be stuck
without it all night.
“I know what they have
there, I need to bring a
couple pans just because, I
need to make sure I have my
knife kit, make sure we have
towels,” he said of his mental checklist. “All the little,
random things.”
That’s merely for a 20-person dinner; prep work for a
600-person event can stretch
to a week or more.
“You look at your menu
items, and you prioritize.
Does something need to
be cured for three days?
Does something need to be
smoked? We don’t order
in an already-cooked pork
tenderloin we’re going to
be slicing; we need to get
an animal in, then we need
to butcher the animal,”
Kincheloe said. “It’s prioritizing those tasks. Most likely,
the little garnishes, the sauces, the little things that make
it have more eye appeal are
usually the last things or the
on-site things.”
“It’s done in stages,” Bleck
noted. “If you’re doing a
protein, you might be marinating it for a couple of days,
you might be braising it the
next day and saucing it the
last day.”
Once the planning and
preparation is done, a caterer
still must execute the menu.
And while there’s not the
unpredictability of waiting for the orders like in a
restaurant, there are still
some unknowns — the parts
Joseph enjoys most.
"…a lot of people
end up very happy."
Top: King crab ceviche, with honey tangerine and avocado crema on a crisp tostada. Above: Aleppo
grilled Oregon Spot prawns with pickled strawberries and pecorino cream over tarragon polenta.
“The fun part is the unknown, because you know
so much already. ‘Oh, the
birthday girl isn’t here yet, so
let’s not serve anything.’ It’s
when to fire food and when
not too,” he said.
The other unknown
involves the location of
those final steps — catering
takes a chef out of his typical
environment and throws
him into a variety of kitchen
spaces that may or may not
be well equipped to handle
the task at hand.
“There’s a winery we’re
cooking for in a few weeks
where I’m going to write the
menu based on the equipment they have and/or what
I’m bringing with me,”
Catering guide
CHAN'S
503.474.2828
FARMER'S PLATE & PANTRY
503.899.8731
www.FarmersPlateAndPantry.com
HAAGENSON'S CATERING
503.472.1309
www.HaagensonsCatering.com
10 indulge MAY 2016
HARVEST FRESH GROCERY & DELI
503.472.5740
www.HarvestFresh.com
LONE STAR BBQ RESTAURANT
AND CATERING
503.864.4176
Facebook.com/lonestarbbqcatering
PURA VIDA
503.687.2020
PuraVidaMac.com
THE ROGUE GOURMET CATERING
503.538.2225
www.RogueGourmet.com
TRASK MOUNTAIN CATERING
503.662.4025
www.TraskMountainCatering.com
VALLEY COMMISSARY
503.883.9177
www.ValleyCommissary.com
Kincheloe said. “Some places
will tell you they have a fully
equipped kitchen and you’ll
show up and it's a 1970s
stovetop range with no hood
system and it hasn’t been
cleaned in a while.”
Joseph recalls cooking a
dinner for an event in a log
cabin with no running water
and no electricity.
“We had 12 really highrolling, well-to-do people,
and they wanted six courses,
and we had a woodstove,” he
said of the event, which he
prepared by candlelight. “It
went great.”
That final part is the focus
of what makes catering so
rewarding for those who do
it — it’s a new challenge each
time out, and when it’s done
well, a lot of people end up
very happy.
"It’s different all the time.
I love that you’re challenged
to keep current and come up
with new ideas,” Bleck said.
Dustin Joseph and Matthew Anderson work in the kitchen during a recent catering gig.
“You’re interacting with a
breadth of different types of
people.”
And for the chefs, there’s
a great degree of culinary
freedom inherent in catering.
“I have the luxury of
not doing the same thing
every day. It’s scary at some
points, but it's wonderfully
creative on other levels. In a
restaurant, you can’t change
a menu that fast. I get a
broader canvas,” Joseph said.
That freedom is delicious.
LONESTAR
BBQ
RESTAURANT
in off-premise
specializing in
Homemade BBQ,
Tex-Mex & more!
312 Ferry Street
Dayton, Oregon
Find us on
Facebook!
discover more at
CATERING
(503) 864-4176
facebook.com/lonestarbbqcatering
indulge MAY 2016 11
LA BELLEZZA
DELLA SEMPLICITA
AgriVino one of the
valley's most unique
dining experiences
Left: Chef Dario Pisoni adds truffle shavings to Gene Wise's
Pappardelle noodles during an evening dinner at the AgriVino
Event Center. Right: Suffle Di Asparagi, (Asparagus souffle
served on cream cheese.
Story by MATT MEADOR Photos by MARCUS LARSON
G
rowing up, one of my best
friends was Italian-American.
I’ve never been one to decline a dinner invitation, but my
more restrained English-family habits
demanded a measure of planning and
forewarning which didn’t lend itself to
sudden guests — at least not as a kid
bringing home friends for dinner. My
friend’s family, on the other hand, was
12 indulge MAY 2016
gregarious and welcoming, always ready
to lay an extra place at their table. And
it was a table generously laden with
excellent food, a table where both talk
and wine were free-flowing and enthusiastic. And, hey, where else could a
teenager actually drink wine with his
hosts’ blessing?
My friend’s Italian-American family was possessed of a joie de vivre I
admired and tried to emulate as I grew
older. A seat at their table promised an
evening where food, wine and fellowship mingled to create an unforgettable
experience nearly every time I joined
them. Most hosts can only hope for this
sort of seamless coalescence. Not only
were they proud of their appreciation
for life, they were good at it.
Sheena Bell appreciated the Italian
zest for life, too.
Sheena was enjoying her annual
vacation in Cancún when a too-suave
guy approached her after a free-spirited
karaoke performance and stated simply,
“I’m Italian.” Sheena laughs at that
approach today. “Like him being Italian
was supposed to be something special,”
she said.
Still, Sheena must have seen something in this confident Italian fellow
named Dario Pisoni. “The next morning, he helped me find something to eat
when I wasn’t really liking anything at
the buffet,” she said. Later that evening,
Sheena let Dario take her for a walk on
the shore, where he kissed her. After
making plans to meet the following
day, a misunderstanding occurred and
the pair parted ways without getting to
know each other any better. “I cried on
the flight home,” said Sheena.
But Dario had a small secret. “Sheena
didn’t know I found her on Facebook
that same night,” he said. “When I got
back to Portland, I posted some photos and changed my Facebook status
to ‘single,’” said Sheena. That did it
for Dario. Six weeks later, Sheena flew
south to visit Dario and he followed,
traveling to Portland two months later.
Today, Dario and Sheena are married
and have created the most authentically Italian culinary experience in
the Yamhill Valley — and possibly the
entire region. The couple’s passion
for great food is palpable. My friend,
Henry “Budd” Kass, and his wife, Rose,
introduced me to this affable, talented
young couple and their exceptional
Italian fare.
“I love Italian-American food,” said
Budd, a retired professor of government
and public administration. “But ItalianAmerican cooking lacks subtlety.”
Budd said Italian-American cuisine,
with its roots in immigrant thrift, was
denied access to some key ingredients.
“Italian-American
food sometimes
hits the diner over
the head,” said
Budd. “AgriVino
does not do that.”
Sheena echoed
Budd’s point by
emphasizing
Dario’s passion
for authenticity.
“Dario doesn’t
cook for the
American palate,”
she said. Dario
went further, decrying a particular
staple on Italian menus in this country.
“When I got here, I asked, ‘who is this
Alfredo?’” said Dario.
On the night Budd, Rose and I
visited Dario and Sheena, the ubiquitous Alfredo was nowhere to be found.
Instead, vellutata di lenticchie (slowcooked lentil soup topped with pancetta), suffle di asparagi (asparagus soufflé
served on fondue) and pappardelle al
tartufo (pasta with freshly shaved black
truffles) awaited us. We chose between
porchetta alla maremmana (roasted
rolled pork belly served with roasted
potatoes and cannellini beans) and salmone, spinaci e cannellini (baked salmon
with sautéed spinach and cannellini
beans) for our entrées, but the three
of us agreed ravioloni alla cigliegia (a
lemon-zested shortbread cookie filled
with cherry jam) would perfect our
evening with aplomb. To make things
“This meal goes from
triumph to triumph,”
simpler, wine — and gratuity — were
included in our prix fixe multi-course
meal. Completing everything, Dario
explained his choices and pairings to
every table as the evening progressed.
With an ever-changing menu and
a dynamic vision, parsing a single
Dario menu might be a disservice to
the entire endeavor. Even the humble
cannellini bean is elevated by Dario’s
touch. Similarly, our chef’s fondue, a
masterpiece of cheeses, was delicately
yet insistently expressive. “This meal
goes from triumph to triumph,” Bud
Continued on page 14
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PH: (503) 472-1309 www.Ribslayer.com
indulge MAY 2016 13
Continued from page 13
exclaimed after sampling Dario’s pappardelle noodles with black truffle. His
wife enthusiastically agreed. “This is
absolutely food for thought,” said Rose.
They’re both right. Our meal was as
much a study in partnerships as it was
in contrasts.
Let me be clear: wine is included
with an AgriVino meal for a reason.
Dario is one of those rare people to
possess an innate understanding of
the fundamental relationship between
food and wine. To sip one’s wine
before and after an AgriVino course
might almost be a sin. Dario’s artistry
is meant to be enjoyed while sipping
the chosen wines and a diner’s failure
to embrace that principle will diminish the AgriVino experience. “With
Italian wines, you must eat something
to get the full expression,” said Dario.
Nowhere was this truth more evident
than the dessert course, where the
ravioloni alla cigliegia didn’t reach
perfection until married with its accompanying tart cherry wine. In my
opinion, sipping wine between bites
allows the diner to savor a Dario dish
for the first time with each mouthful
Sheena Pisoni pours three glasses of Adriatico Ribolla Gialla 2013 wine from Italy.
— in effect, every bite becomes the
first bite.
“AgriVino is a classic example of
beautiful simplicity,” said Budd. His
wife agreed and elaborated further.
“Dario is truly connecting you with
your food, the sourcing, the pairings,
everything is explained,” said Rose.
Overwhelmingly, ingredients used
at AgriVino are imported from Italy.
Produce is sourced locally and the
Pisonis maintain an on-site garden
from which they harvest fresh herbs,
asparagus and more. “We’ll be planting
a lot in the coming weeks,” said Sheena,
noting that farm-fresh local eggs are
also used.
AgriVino is located outside Lafayette,
a couple miles past the Trappist Abbey.
NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY CUISINE
OPEN NIGHTLY FOR DINNER
TUESDAY—SATURDAY FOR LUNCH
RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED
503.538.8880 | TINASDUNDEE.COM
760 HIGHWAY 99W, DUNDEE
14 indulge MAY 2016
Continued on page 16
Casual Local
Dining
───────
www.FarmersPlateAndPantry.com
Food
hand tossed
artisan pizzas
seasonal salads
daily specials
Drinks
8 local beer taps
including 2 nitro taps
growler fills
local & imported wine
craft cocktails
Pantry
local & house
condiments, coffee
& more
beer & wine to go
local art
Catering
let us cook for your
family & friends, any
size event
our place or yours
───────
119 W Main St, Carlton
503.899.8731
301 Main St. Dayton, OR
503.864.8412 | theblockhousecafe.com
TUE•WED•THURS•SAT•SUN 7am-3pm ~ FRI 7am-8pm
indulge MAY 2016 15
AgriVino chef Dario Pisoni carefully prepares Pappardelle al Tartufo (Pappardelle noodles served
with freshly shaved black truffle).
Continued from page 14
411 NE 3rd St • McMinnville, Oregon • 503 435-0880
Find us on
920 NE 8th Street
McMinnville, Oregon
503-883-9177
valleycommissary.com
16 indulge MAY 2016
facebook.com/The411Eatery
At 10280 N.E. Oak Springs Farm Rd., the address is technically in Carlton but access is just as easy from Lafayette. With
an ever-changing menu of exquisite Italian cuisine and an
intimate dining room, guests are well-advised to visit the web
site or make reservations to plan a visit — you can’t just show
up. Visit www.agrivinocarlton.com or call (503) 421-8133 for
more information.
“We don’t compete,” said Dario. “We complete.” His statement might be the perfect summation yet of AgriVino, our
area’s matchless Italian cuisine. But don’t take my word for it:
taste the magic of AgriVino for yourself. I promise you a passionate dining experience.
Breakfast • Brunch • Lunch • Catering
Mon-Fri 7am-3pm, Sat & Sun 9am-3pm
indulge MAY 2016 17
Carlton Corners repeats
By Indulge Yamhill Valley staff
Revisiting the Yamhill Valley Burger
Bracket was an easy decision given the
popularity of the 2015 inaugural contest.
Indulge mixed it up a bit this year by
creating a West Region (McMinnville,
Carlton, Yamhill and West Valley) and
an East Region (Newberg, Dundee,
Lafayette and Dayton) from the readersubmitted nomination process.
The bracket again presented some
enticing match-ups, all decided by
reader voting, but in the end, even
the up-and-coming Block House Café
couldn't prevent Carlton Corners from
repeating as champion.
Both finalists have all the attributes
to earn a widespread reputation for
their burgers and success in such a competition: affordable prices, accessibility,
great atmosphere, community support,
sound marketing and, of course, great
tasting burgers.
Carlton Corners, 150 N Yamhill
Street, is located inside a gas station convenience store in the "Capital of Oregon
Wine Country." Owner Vince Larson and
his son, Mike, have built a restaurant
that is both a local hangout and destination for wine-tasting visitors. They
serve hearty country breakfasts and a full
menu of traditional American lunch and
dinner fare. But it's the eatery's burger
menu that has garnered the most attention, especially when paired with its
rotating beers on tap.
The Corner's latest creation is the
Carlton Firehouse Burger (pictured
18 indulge MAY 2016
below), a tribute to local, hardworking
volunteer firefighters. It features two
patties, cheese, a grilled egg, jalapeño
peppers, bacon and, as always, the restaurant's secret sauce that helps perfect
each burger.
The bracket runner-up is another
must-go for burger lovers. Jason and
Erin Aust opened the Dayton café in
2010, and in November 2014 moved it
to its current location, the renovated
1886 First Baptist Church of Dayton,
located at 301 Main Street.
The Block House's burgers are made
with local grass-fed beef from Childers
Courtesy Carlton Corners
Meat, Inc., from Eugene, and freshly
baked buns that perfectly compliment
the meat and ingredients. Combinations
include BBQ and bacon, mushroom
Swiss, bacon and blue cheese crumbles
and a Patty Melt with Swiss cheese, grilled
onions and Thousand Island on rye.
Carlton Corners, The Block House
Café, the 22 other participants in the
2016 burger bracket, and dozens of
other wine country restaurants contribute to the vitality of the Yamhill Valley
in their individual ways. One common
theme seems to be the passion to make
great burgers.
Courtesy The Block House Café
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indulge MAY 2016 19
Dining guide
AMITY
McMINNVILLE (cont.)
McMINNVILLE (cont.)
BLUE RAEVEN FARMSTAND
20650 S Hwy 99W, Amity
CORNERSTONE COFFEE
216 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
SAGE RESTAURANT
406 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
THE BLUE GOAT
506 S Trade St, Amity
503.835.5170
www.AmityBlueGoat.com
GEM CREOLE SALOON
236 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.883.9194
www.McMinnvilleGem.com
SANDWICH EXPRESS
711 N Hwy 99W, McMinnville
CARLTON
BARREL 47
111 W Main St, Carlton
CARLTON CORNERS
150 N Yamhill St, Carlton
503.852.7439
www.CarltonCorners.com
GOLDEN VALLEY BREWERY
& RESTAURANT
980 NE 4th St, McMinnville
503.472.BREW
www.GoldenValleyBrewery.com
GROCERY OUTLET OF MCMINNVILLE
568 N Hwy 99W, McMinnville
SOUPER SANDWICH HUT
1250 SE Booth Bend Rd, McMinnville
THE 411 EATERY AND LOUNGE
411 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
THE BARBERRY
645 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.857.0457
www.TheBarberry.com
FARMERS' PLATE AND PANTRY
119 W Main St, Carlton
503.899.8731
www.FarmersPlateAndPantry.com
HARVEST FRESH GROCERY & DELI
251 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.472.5740
www.HarvestFresh.com
THE HORSE RADISH
211 W Main St, Carlton
HONEST CHOCOLATES
575 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
THE GRAIN STATION BREW WORKS
755 NE Alpine St, McMinnville
503.687.BREW
www.GrainStation.com
LONE STAR BBQ RESTAURANT
312 Ferry St, Dayton
LA RAMBLA RESTAURANT AND BAR
238 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.435.2126
www.LaRamblaOnThird.com
VALLEY COMMISSARY
920 NE 8th St, McMinnville
503.883.9177
www.ValleyCommissary.com
THE BLOCK HOUSE
301 Main St, Dayton
503.864.8412
www.TheBlockHouseCafe.com
LAUGHING BEAN BISTRO
2274 SW 2nd St, Ste A, McMinnville
DAYTON
DUNDEE
TINA'S RESTAURANT
760 Hwy 99W, Dundee
503.538.8880
www.TinasDundee.com
LAFAYETTE
AMERICAN CAFÉ
176 W 3rd St, Lafayette
McMINNVILLE
1882 GRILLE
645 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
971.261.2370
www.1882Grille.com
3RD STREET PIZZA CO.
433 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
20 indulge MAY 2016
MAZATLAN MEXICAN RESTAURANT
2714 N Hwy 99W, McMinnville
MCMENAMINS HOTEL OREGON
310 NE Evans St, McMinnville
503.472.8427
www.McMenamins.com
MUCHAS GRACIAS
220 NE 12th St, McMinnville
503.434.6367
www.MuchasGraciasMexicanRestaurant.com
PARKWAY NATURAL FOODS
1351 NE Hwy 99W, McMinnville
RIBSLAYER BBQ TO GO
575 NE 2nd St, McMinnville
THE DINER
2580 SE Stratus Ave, McMinnville
NEWBERG
NORTHWEST FRESH SEAFOOD
611 N Main St, Newberg
RECIPE
115 N Washington St, Newberg
SUBTERRA RESTAURANT
1505 Portland Rd, Newberg
503.538.6060
www.SubterraRestaurant.com
YAMHILL
TRASK MOUNTAIN OUTPOST
195 W Main St, Yamhill
503.662.4025
www.TraskMountainOutpost.com
PIE FIXES EVERYTHING!
PIES • Jams • Syrups
Fresh Produce
Cinnamon Rolls
Cookies • Ice Cream
Gourmet Foods
503.835.0740 FoR PRICES and oRdERInG
BlueRaevenFarmstand.com
20650 S. Hwy. 99W, amity | Mon-Sat 9a-5:30p Sun 10a-5p
Thoughtfully Prepared Wine Country Cuisine
Lunch and Dinner
Tue - Sat 11:30am - 9:00pm
115 North Washington • Newberg, OR 97132
503-487-6853
www.recipenewbergor.com
indulge MAY 2016 21
Voted
Best
of Mac
2014
& 2015
Home
of the
“Oregon
Burrito”
Open 24/7. Convenient Drive Thru
Order Our
Gourmet
Boxed Lunches
Perfect to take wine tasting!
BREAKFAST
SPECIALS
6AM-11AM
Box lunches
include sandwich,
salad and cookie.
LUNCH
SPECIALS
11AM-4PM
FREE
HORCHATA
Call ahead we’ll have it
ready for you!
Our full service deli
offers fast service for
dine-in, takeout
or catering.
We feature artisan
breads, gourmet, local
cheeses, delicious
meats and a wide
assortment of
salads and
desserts.
DINNER
SPECIALS!
4PM-10PM
MuchasGraciasMexicanRestaurant.com
McMinnville
Newberg
220 NE 12th St.
2009 Portland Rd.
503-434-6367
22 indulge MAY 2016
503-554-8777
Harvest Fresh
Grocery & Deli
251 NE Third St • 503-472-5740 • HarvestFresh.com
Brew news
Cultivating culture
NEW BREWERY IN NEWBERG
OPENS ITS BARN DOORS
FOR PUBLIC CONSUMPTION
By OSSIE BLADINE
The reputation of Wolves & People
Farmhouse Brewery was built up as
much as any brewery in the nation
when it opened to the public May 14.
“It’s going to be an easy place to
romanticize,” said head brewer Jake
Miller, who moved to McMinnville in
December from Tulsa, Oklahoma, where
he worked for Prairie Artisan Ales in its
experimental small batch division.
The ales he prepares along with
owner Christian DeBenedetti feed off
their surroundings — literally. With
help from some friends along the way,
the two have captured wild yeast from
the working hazelnut orchard and farmland and cultivate cultures in the onsite
barn — circa 1850s.
“It’s not an every brewery kind of
thing to do, the wild yeast. But I love it.
It’s definitely my favorite,” Miller said.
The farmhouse fermentation process
involves lengthier boiling times and
even longer cask-conditioning.
“(The barrel process) is one of
our more interesting aspects,” said
DeBenedetti, who was inspired by
his studies in southern Belgium and
northern France in creating the brewery nearly two years before it opened.
“Historically, farmhouse brewing
entailed making beer with whatever was
on hand. We’re doing an extension of
that,” he said. The abundance of nearby
farms provides what ingredients are not
growing on the farm, which has been in
DeBenedetti’s family for generations.
The eight or so beers ready for
unveiling ran the gamut of ales, from a
Belgian-style grisette with 3.2 percent
ABV to a 7.4 percent strong ale with
cinnamon. Also on tap was a kvass with
a 2.2 percent ABV (“The Poet”), which
is actually a high ABV for this Slavicstyle rye beer.
A glass of cinnamon-infused strong ale by Wolves and
People Farmhouse Brewer. // Photo by Rockne Roll
Miller first sought a position at
Wolves & People to assist its first head
brewer, Jordan Keeper, as a sabbatical
of sorts from his job in Tulsa. When
Keeper was offered a job at a Swiss
brewery he couldn’t pass up, Miller
was available to help with a seamless
transition.
“It was perfect timing for everyone,”
Miller said. The only demand Miller
had was that the production would
include ales made through spontaneous
fermentation. That involves a coolship
(think of giant baking sheet) filled with
wort being exposed to the air, and introduced to wild yeast and bacteria as it
cools. It was a request DeBenedetti was
obliged to grant.
“It’s the most obscure and crazy way
to make beer,” DeBenedetti said, “Very
risky and unpredictable by the very nature of it.” The method is also quite rare,
yet growing in popularity in the U.S.
Wolves & People opened with a
temporary small tasting room next to
the brew house and a dozen or so picnic
tables outdoors, covered by umbrellas from various small breweries in
Germany. DeBenedetti purchased the
brew house from Rick Allen of Heater
Allen, the McMinnville brewery’s original setup. Without the money up front,
Allen accepted a bag of hazelnuts for
the deposit.
The barn is the former home to
J.K. Carriere Wines, which sparked
DeBenedetti’s imagination for doing his
own fermenting business there. Those
ideas turned into a plethora of writeups
across the country long before the May
opening.
“It’s exciting. It’s humbling, because
there are so many great breweries in the
country. We have so many friends making great beers,” DeBenedetti said. “It
feels good to be working and (the hype)
lights a fire in our bellies to work hard
and make great beer every day.”
Miller explained how he’s used to
high expectations. “(Prairie Artisan
Ales) has a huge cult following; If you
Continued on page 26
indulge MAY 2016 23
Happy hour guide
1882 GRILLE
Happy Hour: Daily, 3–6PM
645 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
971.261.2370
www.1882grille.com
CARLTON CORNERS
Happy Hour: Mon–Sun, 3-6PM
150 N Yamhill St, Carlton
503.852.7439
www.CarltonCorners.com
Gem Creole Saloon
Happy Hour: Weekdays, 4–6pm
236 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.883.9194
www.McMinnvilleGem.com
Great prices on favorites everyday!
Plates and drinks change weekly, so call
971.261.2370 or visit website at
www.1882grille.com for this week’s
special.
Carlton Corners, run by the Vincent
Larson family, has long been a fixture
in the Carlton community. Three years
ago Vincent's son, Mike Larson, had a
vision to expand the family business.
They have provided fuel, towing, and a
convenience store for many years. Mike
has expanded the only gas station in
town to include a restaurant with the
best burger in Yamhill County and a
growler fill station.
The menu selections are what
truly makes Carlton Corners stand out.
Award winning burgers, specialty sandwiches, pizzas, salads, fish and chips,
and a complete breakfast menu. You
can always find cold craft brew from the
10 tap lines up in the Growler Room.
Enjoy the laid-back fusion of cultures
and food at the Gem Creole Saloon
in Historic Downtown McMinnville
during happy hour, weekdays from
4 to 6 p.m. Featuring fresh oysters,
gumbo, étouffée, and fried chicken. A
perfect place for the food and sporting
enthusiast, the Gem presents the iconic
sounds and legendary foods of old New
Orleans with classic American style.
Open seven days a week, the Gem also
features Oregon Lottery games. Let the
good times roll!
Barrel 47
Happy Hour: Mon–Fri, 2:30–5pm
111 E Main St, Carlton
Situated in the heart of wine country,
on the corner of Main and Highway
47, Barrel 47 brings dining and a
relaxing environment to Historic
Downtown Carlton.
GOLDEN VALLEY BREWERY
Happy Hour: Daily, 3–6PM, 9PM–Close
980 NE 4th St, McMinnville
503.472.BREW
www.GoldenValleyBrewery.com
Golden Valley is a family owned
brewery and restaurant started in 1993.
We offer finely crafted beers, food and
wines from the great Willamette Valley,
featuring our all-natural Angus beef
raised on our family farm. Open 7 days
a week, Golden Valley has a full bar and
a full menu all day.
24
GRAIN STATION BREW WORKS
Happy Hour: Sun–Fri, 3–6PM
755 NE Alpine St, Ste 200, McMinnville
503.687.BREW
www.GrainStation.com
McMenaMins hotel oreGon
Happy Hour: Daily, 3–6pm & 10pm–12am
310 NE Evans St, McMinnville
503.472.8427
www.HotelOregon.com
In addition to our craft beers brewed
on site, we also offer a hand-picked
selection of local wines, a full bar, and
both lunch and dinner menus with
weekly dinner specials. Our atmosphere
is family-friendly, and outside in our
courtyard, dogs are family too.
We invite you in to McMenamins
Hotel Oregon, where you have your
pick of happy hour spots – from the
new extended hours at the Carter the
Great Bar and Cellar Bar to the Pub
or Rooftop Bar. Our handcrafted ales,
spirits, Edgefield wines and cider round
out the experience in the comfortable
ambience of our historic location.
Sample more of our signature beverages
with the Wine or Beer Taster Tray,
Edgefield Whiskey or Brandy Flights on
special for happy hour, and pair ‘em
with favorites such as Cajun Tater Tots.
SUBTERRA RESTAURANT
Happy Hour: Mon–Fri, 3–6PM
1505 Portland Rd, Newberg
503.538.6060
www.SubterraRestaurant.com
All small plates are half price. We
have wine specials, beer specials, and
cocktail specials too!
La RambLa
Happy Hour: Weekdays, 4–6pm
238 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.435.2126
www.LaRamblaOnThird.com
La Rambla is nationally-known as
a culinary gem nestled in the heart of
Oregon’s gorgeous wine country. Deftly
blending Spanish influences with the
freshest Northwest ingredients,
La Rambla also hosts a happy hour
weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. Sip select
wines, beers or specialty drinks and
sample La Rambla’s famous tapas while
you relax, the perfect way to cap off
a busy afternoon or to experience the
welcoming magic of La Rambla for the
first time!
THE BLUE GOAT
Happy Hour: Fri–Sat, 4–6PM
506 S Trade St, Amity
503.835.5170
www.AmityBlueGoat.com
Savor the romance of wood-fired
cooking straight from our giant handsculpted earthen oven. You can even
watch our chefs at work while you eat!
Serving the best local wine, beer and
spirits in a relaxed, family-friendly environment. And featuring locally grown
fresh produce, eggs, meats, and cheeses
— from small, sustainable farms in
Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
25
Christian DeBenedetti discusses plans to expand the tasting room. // Photo by Rockne Roll
Continued from page 23
WANT TO TRY SOME?
Find our artisan ciders at:
Farmhouse Provisions
•
Harvest Fresh
•
New Seasons
•
Market of Choice
•
Fred Meyer
•
Bitter Monk
•
Urban Decanter
971-241-9682 • www.CarltonCyderworks.com
26 indulge MAY 2016
were going to make an IPA, you better make it great; same
with sours; same with saisons,” and so on, he said.
The Wolves & People tasting room currently is open
Saturdays from 2 to 8 p.m. Visit www.wolvesandpeople.com
to verify hours and for more information.
NEW BREWER AT GRAIN STATION
Joseph D’Aboy has taken over as head brewer for the Grain
Station Brew Works in McMinnville. After homebrewing in
his kitchen and garage for a time, his interest in the industry
peaked with a chemistry of brewing course at Linfield College.
He started as an assistant when the Granary District brewery opened, then took a short hiatus from beer to work at a
nearby winery. He’ll continue to refine the company's flagship brews — the Rose Marie, a wheat IPA aged in Ransom’s
Old Tom Gin barrels will return this summer — and experiment with some original recipes. He has a series of saisons
planned including a farmhouse, an apricot and a tart cherry.
One of his first marks was a coffee stout blended with coffee
from neighboring Flag & Wire Coffee Company.
For more information and an updated beer list, visit www.
grainstation.com.
SUMMER RELEASES AT GOLDEN VALLEY
Jesse Shue of Golden Valley Brewery continues his impressive series of special releases, featuring a new brew on tap every two to three weeks. One beer to anticipate is the LaGrein
Brett Thistle, aged in La Grein grapes courtesy of Remy Wines
and Belgian candi sugar, due out July 7. He's also prepared a
double IPA (July 28), an oak-aged sour blend (August 11) and
"Buzzed Barista," an organic coffee blonde (August 25). See
www.goldenvalleybrewery.com for updated menus.
LONG'S PILS OUT FOR SUMMER
Under-the-radar Long Brewing of Newberg had its Pils, a
German-style lager, ready for release mid to late May. The
self-distributed operation of retired engineer Paul Long
is available at several Yamhill Valley restaurants or at the
brewery by appointment. For more information, visit www.
longbrewing.com.
OLCC Permits
Just 3 mi. from Carlton,
Stag Hollow features
distinctive pinot noirs,
dolcetto & 2014 Pinot Noir
futures in a personal and
friendly atmosphere.
Permits filed by the Oregon Liquor Control Commission
in the Yamhill Valley from Jan. 1 to May 10, with the
most recent on top
to Newberg
HWY 240
H
W
Y
YAMHILL RD
7930 NE Blackburn Road
Yamhill, Oregon
503.662.5609
Tasting Fee Refundable
STILLERS MILL RD
to Forest Grove
YAMHILL
00 OREGON
winery, new outlet; 111 5th Street, Amity
COUGAR’S MARK VINEYARD
winery, new outlet; 2803 Orchard Avenue, McMinnville
DOMAINE ROY ET FILS
winery, new outlet; 8351 NE Worden Hill Road, Dundee
MILLS WINE COMPANY
winery, new outlet; 18200 NE Lewis Rogers Lane, Newberg
GRANVILLE WINES
winery, new outlet; 2515 NE Orchard Avenue, McMinnville
ESTHER GLEN FARM AND WINERY
winery, new outlet; 259 SE 8th Street, Dundee
MARGARITAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT
full on-premises sales, new outlet; 314 N Kutch Street, Carlton
THE OLD OAK
full on-premises sales, new ownership; 326 NE Davis Street,
McMinnville
OPPRESSED WINES
winery, 2nd location; 20875 NE Ribbon Ridge Road, Newberg
DOMAINE VERDANT
winery, change of location; 9200 NE Abbey Road, Carlton
ET FILLE WINES
winery, second location; 718 E 1st Street, Newberg
QUAILHURST VINEYARD ESTATE
winery, new outlet; 240 SE 5th Street, Dundee
ROCKY POINT CELLARS
winery, change of location; 130 W Monroe Street, Carlton
SEQUITUR
winery, new outlet; 15155 NE N Valley Road, Newberg
FLANEUR; WINERY
change of location; 258 N Kutch Street Suite A, Carlton
FOUNDATION WINES RED HILLS DISTRIBUTION AND STORAGE
winery, new outlet; 2515 NE Orchard Avenue, McMinnville
NEIGHBORHOOD MARKET NO. 5
off-premises sales, change ownership; 1591 NW Highway 99W,
McMinnville
CHILMARK WINE COMPANY
winery, change of location; 9200 NW Abbey Road, Carlton
COMMUNIQUE WINES
winery, new outlet; 1140 SE Westland Lane, Dayton
RED HILL DISTILLERY
distillery, new outlet; 15800 NE McDougall Road, Dayton
NEWBERG FAMILY MARKET
limited on-premises sales and off-premises sales, new outlet; 500 E
1st St.re, Newberg
TUMWATER RESERVE
winery, new outlet; 20980 NE Niederberger Road, Dundee
BERT’S CHUCKWAGON
limited on-premises sales; 203 Villa Road, Newberg
4
7
BLACKBURN RD
FRYER RD
STAG
HOLLOW
to Carlton
Open Memorial Day Weekend
Holiday Specials up to 25% off
Sat-Sun 11am-5pm, Mon Noon-4pm Also By Appointment
indulge MAY 2016 27
Vino
esoterica T
The wine region known for
Pinot is home to dozens
of other varietals to enjoy
By OSSIE BLADINE
28 indulge MAY 2016
Gewürztraminer grapes, difficult to say by easy to enjoy // Stock photo
he rise of Oregon Pinot has
been well documented. It
now is attracting major
investment by the country’s
largest wine producers. But there’s just
as many stories about dozens of other
varietals grown in the Yamhill Valley,
which made their way into local production in a variety of ways.
When Carl Dauenhauer of Hauer
of the Dauen started his familyrun vineyard in 1980, he planted
Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling
and Pinot Noir.
“Back in those days, that’s what was
most popular,” he said, adding how
Pinot Noir was the outlier of the first
plantings, the whites by far the most
commercially successful. “Pinot Noir
was just over to the side and we sold
mostly white wine grapes.”
In 1987, the farm expanded its grape
ranges by planting Gamay Noir and
Lemberger. The first, Dauenhauer says,
is a much more palatable wine with a
long flavor to it, useful in the beginning for mixing with Pinot for its “nice
blueberry color.” The latter, provided
by Erath Vineyards founder Dick Erath,
was selected because Dauenhauer — the
grandson of a German immigrant — felt
he needed to grow grapes connected to
his ancestry.
Lemberger, described by Dauenhauer
as a step away from Cabernet
Sauvignon, is a red varietal from the
Franconia region in southern Germany
that is relatively obscure in America.
“We could have bought Cab or
Merlot, but we wanted something
that represented us,” he said. Several
European winemakers have visited the
winery, located a few miles west of
Grand Island and part of the Eola-Amity
Hills AVA, because of Lemberger wine,
Dauenhauer said, who started a winery
with his own family in 1999.
There are many reasons vintners
and vineyard managers of the Yamhill
Valley choose to work with less common, less proven grapes here: curiosity,
“The climate creates the opportunity”
market influences, embrace of the challenge, recognition of
its success in European regions with similar climates. It might
just be pure ignorance.
“Coming from California, we had no idea what would
work up here,” says Patty Green, owner of Deux Vert
Vineyard, in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, with her husband
Mike. “Total ignorance.”
To avoid competing with the rising popularity of Pinot,
the Greens started their vineyard in 1994 with two lesser
known white varietals: Melon (Melon de Bourgogne) and
Viognier. The first they liked when introduced to it during a
visit to Panther Creek Cellars. Then-winemaker Ken Wright
helped it earn a local following, Mike said. The Viognier they
planted because it was a favorite in California and they felt
there was a market here for it.
“When we were interviewing for a vineyard manager, one
guy shook his head and thought we were nuts,” Patty said.
Another interviewee, Bruce Biehl, now owner of Eugene
Wine Cellars, had taken several trips to the Rhone wine
region in Southern France where his brother, Brad, was a
winemaker, and also believed in the potential of those wines
in the Yamhill Valley. “That’s all the encouragement we
needed.”
The following year, they planted Syrah, another Rhone
grape like Viognier. “Then we got smart and planted Pinot
Noir,” Mike quipped, and more Syrah. They moved from
Oakland in 1998 and Mike took over operations on the vineyard in 2000. They soon added a fifth varietal to the land, a
half-acre of Tempranillo, a Spanish grape grown in similar
climates. Patty produced wine from those grapes for several
years, but now it goes to Rob Stuart Wine Co.
“It was a labor of love,” Patty said. “I loved making wine
but hated selling it.”
While challenging times existed for some of Deux Vert’s
crop, it has no problem today selling grapes not named Pinot.
“In the last five years we have had a waiting list for all the
esoteric varietals,” Mike said. “I call it my vineyard portfolio. It provides an opportunity to work with winemakers I
wouldn't normally be in contact with. It also provides a safeguard for when the Pinot market is being volatile.”
Markets have grown for dozens of other varietals from the
six local AVAs, like Muscat, Grüner, Müller-Thurgau, Friuliano
and so on. Still, selling the unknown is never easy.
“Gewürztraminer’s biggest problem is that no one can
pronounce it,” Dauenhauer joked.
They also pose a challenge to growers and vintners to
properly produce the grapes and wines. Jason Lett of The
Eyrie Vineyards spent eight years learning how to produce
quality Chasselas Doré before the winery released a vintage.
“I couldn’t figure out how to make it,” he said. “That’s the
problem with new varietals in new areas.”
Syrah grapes, a Rhone varietal planted in the Yamhill Valley in the '90s. // Stock photo
Eyrie Vineyards had been growing the grape since the '60s
without knowing it. The vines came from California, disguised as Muscat, with founder David Lett. Eventually, a Swiss
researcher visited and identified it as Chasselas, the most
popular white variety in Switzerland. (A similar case occurred
with Melon, which was believed throughout California as
Pinot Blanc, and was brought by David labeled as such.)
In 2013, Jason realized he had been letting the Chasselas
grapes ripen too long, as long as his Pinot Gris. “When you
do that, it tastes like canola oil,” he said. “I picked it at a level
of ripeness way before any of the other grapes grown in the
area. At 9.25 ABV. At that level, it’s just right.”
Jason’s newest varietal is Trousseau Noir, from the Jura
region in southeast France. He was the first to plant the
grape in Oregon, joining a dozen or so California vineyards.
Why take the leap of a faith an that uncommon grape will
work here?
“The same reason my dad planted Pinot Noir here: the
climate creates the opportunity,” he said. “You can impose
style in the winery, but if you’re not getting style from the
vineyard, then you’re not growing it in the right region.”
Jason said people are always fascinated with what’s new
and unusual in the market. But attention spans can be short
in the wine industry, he added, and a varietal may seem
destined to succeed but find the market’s moved on after a
few years.
With thousands of varietals grown in European regions
influenced by the Mediterranean climate, there’s potential for
a large number of new varietals that could grow well in the
Yamhill Valley. Growers and winemakers will continue to be
led by their curious nature, pioneering spirit, sense of adventure and even ignorance, so that the local wine industry is
ever-changing.
indulge MAY 2016 29
located at Wine Country Farm B&B
6855 NE Breyman Orchards Rd
Dayton OR 97114
503-864-3446
www.winecountryfarm.com/winery.aspx
Tasting Room Open 12-5
Wine CountryFarm
6855 NE Breyman Orchards Rd. Dayton, Oregon 97114
www.WineCountryFarm.com | 503-864-3446
kramervineyards.com
Visit us at one of our two tasting rooms:
Vineyard & Winery
Downtown Carlton
26830 NW Olson Road
258 Kutch Street
Gaston, Oregon
Carlton, Oregon
(503) 662-4545
(503) 852-3045
Open Daily 11am-5pm May-Oct
Fri-Sun, 11am-5pm Oct-April
Thurs-Sun 11am-5pm Nov-April Thurs-Sun 11am-5pm May-Sept
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30 indulge MAY 2016
Memorial Weekend
wine tasting hours
AMITY
BROOKS WINES
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–30, 11am–5pm
21101 SE Cherry Blossom Ln, Amity
503.435.1278
www.BrooksWine.com iOTA CELLARS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 11am–5pm
7895 SE Amity Rd, Amity
503.507.8063
www.iotaCellars.com
MYSTIC WINES
Memorial weekend hours:
May 27–29, 12pm–5pm
11931 SW Hood View Rd, Amity
CARLTON / GASTON /
YAMHILL
CARLTON CELLARS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 11am–4pm
130 W Monroe St, Carlton
503.852.7888
www.CarltonCellars.com
ELK COVE VINEYARDS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 27-30, 10am–5pm
27751 NW Olson Rd, Gaston
503.985.7760
www.ElkCove.com
DAYTON / DUNDEE
McMINNVILLE
ARMONÉA
Memorial weekend hours:
Daily, 12pm–5pm
6855 NE Breyman Orchards Rd, Dayton
ELIZABETH CHAMBERS CELLAR
Memorial weekend hours:
May 27–30, 12pm–6pm
455 NE Irvine St, McMinnville
CATHEDRAL RIDGE WINERY
Memorial weekend hours:
Mon–Sun, 11am–5pm
974 Hwy 99W, Dundee
503.537.9977
www.CathedralRidgeWinery.com
WALNUT CITY WINEWORKS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28, 11am–4pm
475 NE 17th St, McMinnville
503.472.3215
DOMAINE TROUVÉRE
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 11am–5pm
155 SW 7th St, Dundee
503.487.6370
www.DomaineTrouvere.com
HAUER OF THE DAUEN
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 12pm–5pm
16425 SE Webfoot Rd, Dayton
LANGE ESTATE WINERY
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 11am–5pm
18380 NE Buena Vista Dr, Dundee
503.538.6476
www.LangeWinery.com
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS
IN MCMINNVILLE
Memorial weekend hours:
May 27–28, 11am–8pm;
May 29, 12pm–6pm; May 30, 11am–6pm
300 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
NEWBERG
ARBORBROOK VINEYARDS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29, 11am–5pm
May 30 11am–4:30pm
17770 NE Calkins Ln, Newberg
CLIFF CREEK CELLARS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 26–30, 12pm–5pm
214 E 1st St, Newberg
503.487.6692
www.CliffCreek.com
KRAMER VINEYARDS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 26–29, 11am–5pm
26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston
STAG HOLLOW WINES
AND VINEYARDS
Memorial weekend hours:
May 28–29 11am–5pm; May 30, 12pm–4pm
7930 NE Blackburn Rd, Yamhill
503.662.5609
www.StagHollow.com
TROON VINEYARD
Memorial weekend hours:
Sun–Thurs, 11am–6pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm
250 N Kutch St, Carlton
indulge MAY 2016 31
More than 30 varieties of traditional cider
apples and pears grow on the Carlton
Cyderworks orchard outside Carlton,
next to founder Keenan Bailey’s family’s
farm. The orchard was planted when the
company was founded in 2009.
A bittersweet
FAMILY-OWNED MICRO CIDERY SEEKS TO
INTRODUCE NEW APPLES TO THE VALLEY
Photos and story by ROCKNE ROLL
Most people know that Oregon’s
wine industry was born in the Yamhill
Valley, but 30 to 40 years in the future,
it might follow that a major part of
Oregon’s cider industry was spawned
here, too. The foundations are already
established in a small commercial space
next to an automotive shop on the
south side of McMinnville.
Carlton Cyderworks, born in 2009
as the third licensed cider maker in
Oregon, started the same way cider
making developed in the days before
Prohibition in this country.
“The tradition of cider-making,
pre-Prohibition, was that every farmer
made cider, because apples are easy to
grow,” co-owner Keenan Bailey said.
“That’s how we got started; my parents
32 indulge MAY 2016
endeavor
had planted 30 apple trees on our farm.
My dad had this crazy idea of ‘Lets start
making cider with it.’”
Bailey, his brother Mark and Allen
Gould didn’t intend simply to craft
cider — they wanted something different. So they went to where American
cider-making began — England.
“We toured some larger cideries,
some smaller ones. We had some terrible
cider, we had some good cider,” Keenan
Bailey recalled. “They have a tradition
of drinking cider for hundreds and hundreds of years. That’s where we wanted
to go, we wanted to emulate the better
examples of cider we found there.”
However, there are two distinct challenges to selling English-style cider in
the U.S. The first is that while apples
in a general sense are easy to find – 60
percent of all U.S. apples come from
Washington state — the traditional
bittersweet and bittersharp apples used
in English cider are not natives. And
even if they were, they have a flavor the
American palate simply isn’t ready for.
“The consumers' palate has not caught
up to England,” Bailey explained. “With
craft beer, you see all sorts of crazy stuff.
It’s really grown over the last 30 years,
but it's taken 30 years to get there.”
Gould framed it another way: “It’s
similar to when someone turns 21 here,
what do they drink? They drink Mike’s
Hard Lemonade; they drink sweet Rosé
wine. Ten, 20 years down the line,
they’re drinking big, bold Pinots and
imperial IPAs. The Northwest is in the
21, 22-year-old stage of cider."
Instead, Carlton Cyderworks uses
juice from Northwest-grown apples and
Continued on page 34
Wines of
elegance await
Weekdays 11am – 4:30pm
Weekends 11am –5pm
17770 NE Calkins Lane
Newberg, Oregon
arborbrookwines.com
indulge MAY 2016 33
Continued from page 32
pears, plus some fruit from the Bailey Family's 2 ½ acre orchard in Carlton and additional fruits, like cherries and Asian
pears. The cider ages for three to six months — a unique step
that gives Carlton Cyderworks cider its distinctive, richer
flavor. The cider is blended into a finished product after aging
because, like wine, each batch of juice is slightly different.
“There’s differences in tannins and sugar content from
year to year,” Bailey explained.
Most of the company’s cider is aged in airtight, palletized
food-grade bags — a “bag in a box,” as it's called, but a portion is bourbon barrel-aged and blended in to give a hint of
the more traditional English flavor enjoyed by Bailey, Gould
and other cider makers.
“You get these tannins that you’d normally associate
with red wine. This is what we like to drink,” Gould said.
“We like all our other ciders, of course, but this is where
we’re aiming to get.”
And just as David Lett pioneered growing pinot noir
grapes in Oregon, the crew at Carlton Cyderworks is working
to introduce traditional cider-making apples from England
and the rest of Europe.
“We’re trying to figure out what apple varieties grow really
great here,” Bailey said. “The varieties they use in England,
maybe they’ll grow great here; maybe we’ll need to use varieties from Northern France. Maybe the Spanish varieties are
what’s going to grow here. I want to be on the forefront of
figuring that out.”
If the present is any indication of the future, the results
will taste delicious.
Top: Keenan Bailey, left, and Allen Gould of Carlton Cyderworks bottle a batch of cider at the
company's facility in McMinnville. Above: Bottles of cider on sale at Farmhouse Provisions in
Carlton, which serves tastes of Carlton Cyderworks' drinks on weekends. // Photos by Rockne Roll
“One of Five Must-See Oregon
Wineries” - USA Today July 2015
Featured on Fox TV’s
“Strange Inheritance”
Featured in acclaimed film
“American Wine Story”
Fifteen years after we began making wine, we finally have our own home! Located on our estate with
its incredible view of Mt. Hood and the Willamette Valley, the new 13,500 square foot winery houses
our production facilities, tasting room, and biodynamic gardens. Come enjoy hand crafted riesling
and pinot noir while you enjoy one of the best experiences that the Willamette Valley has to offer.
BrooksWine.com info@brookswine.com 503.435.1278
Open Tuesday–Sunday 11–5 & Monday by appt. 21101 Cherry Blossom Lane, Amity, Oregon
34 indulge MAY 2016
Brooks Wines
Brookswinery
Bella Luna Bakery in Yamhill. // Photo by Marcus Larson
Gluten-free friendly
By NICOLE MONTESANO
It's becoming easier to find glutenfree options for dining out, in Yamhill
County, as in the nation. But county
residents have a couple of special treats
available to them: A dedicated glutenfree patisserie, in Yamhill, and a glutenfree bakery in McMinnville.
Bella Luna Gluten-free Patisserie and
Pie Shop, at 185 S. Maple St. in Yamhill,
offers a mouthwatering array of pastries, pies, cheesecake and even cakes.
In addition, it includes a selection of
take-and-bake entrees, also gluten-free,
including pot pies, both vegetarian and
meat lasagna, and more. View the menu
online at bellalunapatisserie.com.
Angie's Gluten-Free Kitchen, at 214
N.E. 11th Street in McMinnville, is also
strictly gluten-free, as well as dairy-free,
with none of the gums often used in
gluten-free baking. In addition, the
bakery, which sources organic and local
ingredients whenever possible, avoids
soy products, oats, peanuts, bean flour,
hydrogenated oils and “highly-refined
sugars.” However, its products are not
considered sugar-free. Many products
are dairy-free; there are also vegan and
some “paleo” options.
It produces a wide range of products:
breads, bagels, tortillas, buns, muffins, pizza crust mix, pancake mix, pie
dough and pastries. On Friday, it makes
doughnuts.
Learn more on its facebook page, at
angiesgfkitchen.
There's also Luckee Dutch in
Newberg (see story on page 40).
For more take-and-bake options, the
Blue Raeven, famous for pies and pot
pies, makes gluten-free fruit pies, using
the dough from Angie's Gluten-free
Kitchen.
Numerous restaurants around the
county either offer gluten-free options
on their menus, or work with patrons
to ensure orders are free of problem
ingredients.
Marna Porath of Amity recommends
Thai Country Restaurant in downtown
McMinnville, noting that “They do use
soy sauce, but are happy to substitute
with tamari.”
Porath also enjoys the gluten-free
wrap offered by the 1882 Grille in
downtown McMinnville.
Some other restaurants advertising
gluten-free options include La Rambla,
and Pura Vida Concina, both in downtown McMinnville and Jac's Deli &
Continued on page 37
indulge MAY 2016 35
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36 indulge MAY 2016
Continued from page 35
Frozen Custard in Newberg.
Restaurants advertising the ability to
substitute gluten-free bread include The
Horse Radish in Carlton and Red Hills
Market in Dundee.
Susan Chambers, president of
Gluten-free Friends in McMinnville,
said dining out as a gluten-intolerant
person has been easier in general over
the past 15 years, and that “Oregon
is one of the greatest places to eat
gluten-free.”
Chambers said McMinnville is definitely part of that trend.
“It's wonderful. Most people are
amazed. My sister lives in Davis,
California and loves to come visit and
go out to eat; almost every restaurant
on Third Street is super accommodating to a gluten-free diet. Especially
because so many high end restaurants
on Third know what the ingredients
are, can tell you what has gluten and
doesn't,” she said.
Chambers warned, however, that
fast food restaurants can still pose
a problem, in part because so many
foods are prepared off-site for cooking
on-demand, and so the staff may have
no control over them, and may not
know all of the ingredients.
However, she said, some pizza restaurants are now offering gluten-free
crusts. It is particularly helpful, she said,
when those crusts are made off-site, to
reduce chances of cross-contamination.
Not only have people in general
become more aware of the issue, she
said, but a new federal regulation, passed
in 2004, makes it easier to determine
whether purchased items like sauces and
salad dressings contain allergens. The
law requires that the eight most common allergens, which include wheat, be
specifically listed, and companies can no
longer use the catch-all term “modified
food starch,” a former pitfall for people
studying ingredient lists.
The list includes any ingredients
derived from milk, eggs, fish, shellfish,
tree nuts, wheat, peanuts and soybeans.
However, it does not include barley,
which is among the foods that people
who have celiac disease or are otherwise gluten-intolerant, must avoid,
Chambers warned. Barley malt is an
ingredient to watch for, particularly in
cereal, she said.
Chambers said she still takes care
to talk with servers about her dietary
needs, and to confirm, when served,
that she is receiving a gluten-free meal.
“I always ask a lot of questions,” she
said, particularly about the ingredients
of sauces and dressings.
“I always ask a lot of
questions.”
She said that when planning to eat
at a restaurant you haven't tried, it
may be helpful to call ahead and make
inquiries.
Gluten-free Friends offers a handout
on its website, www.glutenfreefriends.
org, that also advises making sure that
restaurant servers understand how
gluten-free foods must not be placed on
cutting boards or other surfaces used
for bread or flour, cooked in the same
oil used for foods containing wheat or
breading, or cooked on the same surface
used for wheat-containing foods.
CHANGE PERSPECTIVE
DesignateD Drivers
& Wine tours
voted “Best” Car service
2015, 2014, 2013 & 2012
Prices starting at $35.00 an hour
servicing the greater Portland
and Willamette valley regions
mainstreetdrivers.com | 888.327.4460
Fun • Romance • Special Occasions
• helicopter & airplane
• scenic tours
• private charter
• wine tasting tours
• flight instruction
Phone: 503-376-0190
konect-aviation.com
indulge MAY 2016 37
Around the valley
SEASON OF MARKETS
There's no shortage of local produce
and other craft foods for sale at local
farmers markets in the valley, including
the all-new Yamhill Farmers Market.
Located at 185 S Maple St. in
Yamhill, the market opened May 7. It
will run Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2
p.m. through October. For more information, visit yamhillfarmersmarket.
com.
Other markets to check out include:
 Carlton Farmers Market; Saturdays
10 a.m. - 2 p.m.; Carlton Corners, 150
N Yamhill St.; carltonfarmersmarket.
com for more info.
 Dundee Farmers Market; Sundays
10 a.m. - 2 p.m., through early October;
Highway 99W and 7th St.
 Farmers Market at the Grange;
Saturdays 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., yearround; 1700 SW Old Sheridan
Road, McMinnville; facebook.com/
McMinnvilleGrangeFarmMarket.
 Granary Marketplace; Saturdays
9 a.m. - 3 p.m., year-round; 740 NE
Alpine Ave., McMinnville; facebook.
com/GrainStationMarketplace for more
info.
 McMinnville Downtown Farmers
Market; Thursdays 1 - 6 p.m. through
October 13; Cowls St. between 3rd and
4th streets; downtownmcminnville.
com/mcminnville-farmers-market for
more info.
 Newberg Farmers Market;
Wednesdays 1:30 - 6 p.m., through
September 28; Newberg Cultural
District Pavilion, E. 1st and S. Howard
streets; newbergdowntown.org/newberg-farmers-market for more info.
 Willamina Farmers Market;
Sundays 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., starting July
10; West Valley Community Center,
266 SE Washington St.; willaminafarmersmarket.com.
YAMHILL'S TASTING ROOM
The city of Yamhill has its first wine
and beer tasting room in Oregon Vines,
opened in April by Kat Kellogg. Housed
in a small farmhouse at the corner of
Highway 47 and Maple Street, the shop
features rotating beer and wine flights
to taste on site, along with glass sales
38 indulge MAY 2016
Patrons enjoy the company and drinks during a recent Final Friday event at J Wrigley Vineyards in Sheridan. The winery hosts the
gathering each month, with BBQ on site to purchase. For more information, visit wrigleywines.com. // Photo by Rockne Roll
for on site consumption, bottles and
growlers to take home.
“Oregon Vines is a unique tasting
room and community gathering place
promoting the culture and heritage of
the Oregon beer and wine industries,”
Kellogg said. “Our purpose is to educate guests about the unique aspects
of Oregon’s AVAs and to celebrate the
state’s historic tradition of craft beer
and wine.”
The "small taste of Oregon" also features numerous locally produced craft
food items and gifts for sale.
The back patio is perfect for gatherings and events, including live music
trivia nights and pop up art shows. To
view upcoming events or read more
about the shop, visit orvines.com.
SOCIAL GOODS AND WINE LOCKERS
Social Goods Market recently opened
in downtown Newberg, 500 E 1st Street,
offering local and specialty goods, with
the unique twist that the products come
from companies that have some socially conscious mission as part of their
business plan. An adjoining business,
Newberg Wine Lockers, is modeled after
Portland's Willamette Wine Storage.
The Lockers have storage, a member
tasting room, a reference library and
more. For information on both businesses, visit vinooregon.com.
BOYC TICKETS ON SALE
Tickets are on sale for Bounty of
Yamhill County 2016.
The annual event is Friday to
Sunday, Aug. 26 to 28. Now in its sixth
year, Bounty of Yamhill County is the
major annual fundraiser for the Yamhill
Enrichment Society. The wine and food
festival is YES’ largest fundraiser and
provides funds for efforts such as the
Early Childhood Literacy Program.
Several activities have been added
this year, including hiking, yoga, hot-air
ballooning and horseback riding. The
evening events are:
Friday — Winemaker Grill & Chill:
Dinners to be served at Remy Wines in
McMinnville with Valley Commissary
and Anam Cara Vineyard in Newberg
with Ruddick/Wood.
Saturday -— Winemaker's Dinners:
Dinner is served between 6:30 and 9:30
p.m. at Winderlea Estate in Dundee
with Dundee Bistro and Penner-Ash
Wine Cellars in Newberg.
Sunday — Big Night: The weekend
concludes with a dinner at 5:30 p.m. at
Sokol Blosser Winery outside Dayton,
with dozens of participating local restaurants, vintners and more.
For tickets, call 503-883-9654 or email
info@bountyofyamhillcounty.com. More
information is available online at www.
bountyofyamhillcounty.com.
Living here guide
CARLTON CYDERWORKS
971.241.9682
www.carltoncyderworks.com
KONECT AVIATION
503.376.0190
MAIN STREET DRIVERS
888.327.4460
Kyle Rosalez flambes prosciutto-wrapped apples during an
April whisky social and tasting hosted by Hood River Distillery
at Wine Country Cooking Studio above Red Hills Market in
Dundee. Red Hills Market recently took over the studio located
on its second floor. They will have a few classes through the
summer, but plan to really expand the events schedule in the
fall. // Photo by Rockne Roll
CARLTON OPEN LATE ON FRIDAYS
The Friday Night Flights series in
Carlton celebrated the opening of its
sixth series on May 20. Town merchants, restaurants and tasting rooms
stay open until 7 p.m. and many offer
special offers and discounts. The event
series runs through September 2. Visit
carltonbusinessassociation.com for
more info.
MORE WAYS TO TOUR WINE COUNTRY
Myriad services are available to make
sure your party can enjoy wine country
NEW LEAF CANNA CENTER
3325 NE Riverside Dr, McMinnville
503.435.2837
www.newleafcannacenter.com
TOTAL HEALTH & WELLNESS
119 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
800.784.0032
www.TotalHealthandWellness.org
VISIT MCMINNVILLE
328 NE Davis St, Ste 1, McMinnville
503.857.0182
www.visitmcminnville.com
VISTA BALLOON ADVENTURES
503.625.7385
www.vistaballoon.com
WINE COUNTRY SHIPPERS
1271 NE Hwy 99W, McMinnville
without worrying about designated
drivers, including local businesses TheTrolly and Wheels-in-Time
New to the Yamhill Valley is Main
Street Drivers, a New York-based company that keeps costs down by using
your car. The company has a collection
of background-checked designated drivers who will chauffeur you from winery
to winery in the comfort of your own
car at $35 an hour on weekdays and
$40 an hour on weekends, plus gratuity.
Visit mainstreetdrivers.com/ for booking information.
LUNCH SERIES IN THE DUNDEE HILLS
Winderlea Estate is hosting a unique
10-week lunch series this summer most
Fridays from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. from July
8 through September.
Each week, a guest chef prepares
lunch to be paired with current
Winderlea releases along with a featured
library wine. The events are $60 per person, all-inclusive. To reserve a seat call
503-554-5900 or email infor@winderlea.
com. Lineup or guest chefs and more
info at winderlea.com.
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EST. 1984
indulge MAY 2016 39
Local Secret
Conveniently baked goods
By OSSIE BLADINE
Like the orders it fills dayto-day, the business model
of Newberg bakery Luckee
Dutch is customer driven.
"We're a custom bakery,
so we do what people want
us to do," said Marilynn Van
Grunsven, part of the familyowned operation located
in the Shell gas station on
the south end of town, 204
Highway 99W.
The family bakes a slew of
goods for customers, but it's
the wheat-free items that sell
best so far.
"We never intended to be
a big gluten-free bakery," said
Casey, who works the shop
daily with his mother and father, Dave. His sister, Angela,
a graphic artist, works
Saturdays in the bakery,
mainly with custom cakes.
But the niche of wheat-free
has generated the most buzz
thus far for the hidden gem.
Casey graduated from the
Western Culinary Institute
(now Le Cordon Bleu College
of Culinary Arts) in Portland.
His foray into gluten-free
did not stem from any of
his family's dietary needs,
but from those of friends in
Portland.
"As I started baking more
in Portland I had a lot of
friends who did have diatary
intolerences, so they could
not eat what I was baking," he
said. "At the same time, what
they were giving me that they
were eating was terrible."
Having had a core group
of taste testers to practice on,
it was natural for Casey to
include a wheat-free menu
40 indulge MAY 2016
Casey Van Grunsven butters up some pastries in his family-owned bakery, Luckee Dutch, location
inside the Shell Station on the south end of Newberg // Photo by Ossie Bladine
when the Van Grunsven's
opened Luckee Dutch in 2011.
The merits of the bakery certainly outweigh the
unlikely location and its following thus far. The family
is making do, but Casey said
it's been difficult to get the
word out that a kitchen of
such epicurean delights can
be found inside a Shell.
"Baking in a gas station,
we have to tongue-in-cheek
it a little bit."
Another favorite includes the cinnamon roles,
both standard and glutenfree, which are meals in
themselves.
Luckee Dutch makes about
any baked good anyone
desires. The family combines
lessons passed to Marilynn
from her mother and grandmother with the French and
European traditions Casey
learned both in school and
through his own experimentation. Their loaf breads range
from soft white to asiago
cheesebread, and can also
be purchased at Farmhouse
Provisions in Carlton.
They source local ingredients and make everything
from scratch — except the
cheese dip served with
pretzels baked fresh daily,
but even that is bulked up to
their liking.
The family caters to
dietary needs whenever possible, even taking lists of customers' allergies and baking
orders especially for them,
when possible. They also
thrive on making custom
cakes for parties, weddings or
just for fun.
"We're not 'Cake Boss' yet,
but that's what we aspire to
be," Casey said.
Also a deli, Luckee Dutch
serves handmade sandwiches
and salads. The breakfast
sandwiches are served on a
blend of Danish dough and
croissant dough, resulting
in a rich and savory meal.
Casey will also use that
dough mix for bear claws
and stuffed bread twists.
Five years into business,
many people are still discovering Luckee Dutch from
pies, cookies, cupcakes (buy
11 and get the 12th free) and
custom baked orders. "It feels
like we're still starting out in
ways," Casey said.
The bakery also has a
drive-up window for convenience and they deliver with
a handling and shipping fee
For more information, visit
www.luckeedutch.com.
indulge MAY 2016 41
Cellar dweller
MATT
MEADOR
A big guy who
likes big wines,
Matthew
Meador is an
advertising
copywriter and
designer for the
News-Register.
42 indulge MAY 2016
I’m not opposed to good manners
when they’re called for. On the contrary, the occasional black-tie-level
dinner and its accompanying highfalutin’ fare is something I anticipate.
But bluntly put, habitually sacrificing
enthusiasm for rigid table expectations
tends to separate us from our food.
When food is an integral element of
family life, meals can be exuberant
and passionate events where a family’s
sense of community is strengthened not
only by food, but also by fellowship.
When family friends are added into the
recipe, meals can be truly communal
experiences.
Growing up, meals with my mother’s
English-Irish family could be lively
affairs, but dinner with my father’s
English family was more staid and
even the children were expected to
know their place. In hindsight, the
ideal of the 1950s nuclear family meal
may have been a little too unyielding.
Americans could take a lesson from the
near-rowdy camaraderie at tables in
other places.
And the well-reported American
obesity epidemic needn’t be worsened
by introducing a little passion to our
meals. As Sheena Pisoni of AgriVino
pointed out during an interview for
a feature elsewhere in this magazine,
people in Italy eat all the time, but
invariably an Italian meal is followed
by a walk or some such calorie-burning
healthful activity. I’m even convinced
the current American penchant for family members eating separately — with
meals almost relegated to afterthought
status — might have been avoided if
our mealtimes hadn’t evolved from
quiet eating-only affairs. If dinner was
truly a time family members used to
learn about each other’s days and not
just a time for silent eating, maybe
the everyone-together dinner hour
wouldn’t have fallen by the wayside.
Whatever the case, I’m advocating
injecting a little passion into our meals.
When we’re passionate about our food
and we demonstrate that at our tables,
we’ll almost certainly be passionate
about our companions with whom
we’re enjoying these meals. Surrounded
by the tempting culinary offerings
of the Yamhill Valley, we might be
ground-zero for the launch of a passionate-eating revolution.
Here’s to eating with enthusiasm!
making wine in the hear t of the
Sin ce 1 9 87
Visit us and
a l ove f o r
Ol d W o r l d Cl a ss ics
New Wo r l d Styl e
f ro m t h e
T em pr a nil l o
Syr a h
V io g nier
Inspired NW cuisine
celebrating local farmers
Local beer, wine, spirits,
specialty cocktails
503.835.5170
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44 indulge
Lunch:
Wednesday – Sunday
MAY 2016
506 s. trade st., amity, or
Dinner: Friday, Saturday, Sunday