CWT 26 Spring 2008 Issue for web.qxd
Transcription
CWT 26 Spring 2008 Issue for web.qxd
Traveller C A N A D I A N W O R L D In This Issue Spring 2008 / Vol 6 / No 3 Middle East Jordan Focus on Asia Japan Mongolia India North America Chicago Europe France / Monaco / Italy / Greece Canad a’s Only P rint an d On-lin e Consu mer Tr avel Magaz ine Photo: George Fischer Printed on 100% Recycled & Recyclable Paper A word from the editors W elcome to the Spring 2008 Issue of Canadian World Traveller, which is being distributed across Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations in the Greater Toronto Area. For those not familiar with our magazine, this is the sixth year of its publication. This issue, as well as all of our previous 25 issues are archived on our website at www.canadianworldtraveller.com. In addition, an electronic version of Canadian World Traveller is distributed by email to over 9,000 travel specialists across Canada. You will note that our publication is printed on 100% recycled paper. This is just our small but significant contribution to our collective efforts to help preserve the forests of our beautiful planet. We hope that our initiative will inspire other print media to follow suit and that you will recycle this magazine after reading it. Published by Canadian World Traveller In this issue, we conclude our ten-day odyssey in the peaceable Kingdom of Jordan. If you missed Part One in which we visited awe-inspiring Petra, we invite you to access it on our website. In the Focus on Asia segment of this issue, we visit truly incredible India; ride across the Steppes of Mongolia; and marvel at the ancient and modern traditions of mysterious Japan. Finally, we explore the many sides of the exciting windy city of Chicago and take you along on a fun-filled family vacation across Europe. 4055, Ste-Catherine Street West, Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com Publisher Editor-in-chief Graphic Artist Advertising Marketing Distribution Ecotourism Contributors Have a Great Spring Vacation! Cover Photo: Table of Contents Page Jordan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Mongolia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 France / Monaco / Italy & Greece . . . . 26 W hy spend days recovering when you can take this homeo-pathic remedy during the flight and feel fresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time. www.nojetlag.com Michael Morcos Greg James Al Cheong Leo Santini Tania Tassone Royce Dillon Dave Taylor Mike Cohen David J. Cox Natalie Ayotte Lise Giguère Erez Gordon Xerxes N. Marduk Petra, Jordan by George Fischer Printed in Canada Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers. A unique, safe and natural homeopthic remedy for motion sickness. 32 easy to take chewable tablets in each packet. www.tripease.org NO-JJET-LLAG TM Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311 Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : gaelft@no-jet-lag.com Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Jordan A Peaceable 4 Kingdom Part Two By Greg James info@georgefischerphotography.com Photo: George Fischer I n Part One of our incredible ten-day odyssey in the peaceable Kingdom of Jordan, we began by exploring its capital city Amman, a surprisingly modern, hospitable and bustling metropolis. Next on our exciting countrywide tour, was a pleasant drive to Jordan's northern regions, which boast lush pine forests, olive groves and the famed hilltop castle of Ajloun. A drive southward then brought us to the imposing ruins of the Roman city of Jerash. Adding to our ambitious yet intriguing itinerary, were stops at Mount Nebo, where Moses viewed the Promised Land; Madaba, famous for its historic mosaics; and Kerak, the almost impenetrable fortress built by the Christian Crusaders. But our two-day stay at Petra, which was carved out of towering rose-red rock cliffs some 2000 years ago and recently named one of the "Seven New Wonders of the World", was truly awe-inspiring! "What could top that?" I thought. I would soon find out as we headed further south for Wadi Rum! See Jordan on page 5 Jordan 5 Continued from page 4 The Amazing Wadi Rum It is almost impossible to describe this amazing expanse of desert that is the largest wadi (valley or dry riverbed) to be found in Jordan. Rum (pronounced more like ramm) is derived from an Aramaic word meaning 'high' or 'elevated'. Unlike my previous conception of deserts as just miles and miles of undulating, featureless sand dunes, Wadi Rum boasts spectacular soaring mounds of sandstone and granite rock rising out of the surrounding endless sea of sand. This area has been inhabited by many human cultures since prehistoric times. Many of these cultures, including the Nabateans of Petra fame, left their mark in the form of rock paintings, graffiti and temples, which are still visible. Photo: Jordan Tourism Board Photo: George Fischer Seven Pillars of Wisdom Solitary Walk In the 1980s, one of the impressive towering rock formations in Wadi Rum was named "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom" in memory of Lawrence's book penned in the aftermath of the war and this is where we started our incredible desert safari. After a wonderful meal at the remarkably comprehensive interpretation centre, we boarded our 4-wheel-drive Jeeps for the ride of a lifetime across the seemingly endless expanse of Wadi Rum. Protected from the scorching rays of the desert sun by hats, sunglasses and sunblock lotion, we revelled in the exhilarating ride along the barely marked trails. One soon began to understand why only certified local drivers are allowed to venture into the Rum, as it would be so easy to lose your way and end up driving in circles! Our Jeeps pulled up in the shadow of one of the many rock formations and our intrepid guide invited us to take a solitary walk in whichever direction we wanted. He explained that to truly experience the Rum one must get away from the madding crowd, listen to the subtle sounds of the wind, feel the sand running away from under your footsteps and let all of the cares and stress of modern-day life gradually slip away. As I got farther away from our caravan, I could understand what he meant. All I could hear was the sound of my own breathing and the soft whispering of the wind. It was indeed a unique experience, but it was comforting to know that I was not really alone in this strangely beautiful yet totally unforgiving environment! See Jordan on page 6 Today, several Bedouin tribes (and their camels) inhabit Wadi Rum and the surrounding area. But when you are there, you have the distinct feeling that you are all alone with nature and whatever higher power you believe in. Lawrence’s Legacy For most Westerners, Wadi Rum is best known for its connection to British army officer T. E. Lawrence, portrayed by Peter O'Toole in the film Lawrence of Arabia. Lawrence and his Arab allies crossed Wadi Rum during the Arab Revolt of 1917-1918 against the Ottoman Turks. Much of the award-winning 1962 film was shot on this actual breathtaking location, but the cinematic images pale in comparison to the real thing. Photo: Jordan Tourism Board Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 6 Jordan Continued from page 5 Natural Bridge After stopping to view one of the most visible examples of ancient graffiti carved into Wadi Rum's rock formations by longforgotten civilisations, we came upon one of the Rum's most astounding natural features, a soaring natural rock bridge that was created by eons of wind-driven sand. After gingerly climbing up one of the steep "banks" a group of us reached the middle of the span and did a high-kicking cancan routine as our less adventurous travelling companions clicked away with their cameras from terra firma. Photo: George Fischer The camp consisted two rows of continuous tents forming a v-shape against one of Wadi Rum's soaring rock formations. The remarkably comfortable units were separated from each other by thickly woven blankets, which were also used as "doors" to each unit. The furnishings consisted of a single bed and a night table with a candlestick and matches. Part of the charm was the lack of electricity and other modern amenities in the tents but the common bathroom facilities did have lights and running water. Moonlit Supper Photo: Jordan Tourism Board Desert Sunset As the shadows grew longer and the temperature dropped we arrived at a picture-postcard spot to view the sun finally setting on the desert horizon. It was a moment to be forever cherished. Silhouetted against the waning ball of fire were two Bedouins on their camels heading for their camp. The sky turned every imaginable hue then darkened as a full moon began its ascent. Our Bedouin hosts were wonderful. They made us an incredible meal, slowly cooked in a pit filled with preheated rocks. As we savoured the meal seated in a circle around a campfire, Bedouin musicians entertained us under the light of the desert moon. What more could one ask for? After a remarkably restful sleep, we said goodbye to our charming hosts and left for our journey south to an entirely different world, the Red Sea resort town of Aqaba. Aqaba Sojourn Aqaba is strategically important to Jordan, as it is the country's only seaport. The town has been an inhabited settlement since 4000 BC, profiting from its location at the junction of trading routes between Asia, Africa, and Europe. It is very easy to locate on the map as it is at the southernmost tip of Jordan where the country comes to a point at the Gulf of Aqaba, an arm of the legendary Red Sea. During World War I, the occupying Ottoman forces were forced to withdraw from the town after the 1917 raid led by T. E. Lawrence AKA Lawrence of Arabia and the Arab forces of Sharif Hussein. See Jordan on page 7 Welcome to Your Tent Perhaps the most unusual accommodations you could ever imagine would be to spend a night in a Bedouin camp in the middle of the desert! Yet that was exactly what was in store for us. I had visions of spending a sleepless night on a thin bedroll with all sorts of creepy crawlers as bedmates and strange nocturnal creatures howling at the flap of my temporary abode. How wrong could I be? Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Photo: Jordan Tourism Board Jordan 7 Continued from page 6 Four Countries Meet Lying on Jordan’s short coastline between Israel and Egypt to the west and Saudi Arabia to the East, Ababa's location is truly unique. With the warm crystal clear waters and the cool breezes of its Gulf, its no wonder that this is a favourite holiday spot among both locals and foreigners. After checking into the Intercontinental Hotel Aqaba, we spent a wonderful afternoon on a boat ride around the gulf, stopping to plunge into the waters to do some snorkelling. The gulf is recognised as a world-class diving site because of its wonderful coral reefs. Discover the Wonders of Petra & Jordan with GMTOURS C hoose from our unique tours of Jordan lasting from three days up to two weeks. Itineraries include visits to Amman, Desert Castles, Um Qais, Bethany, Dead Sea Spas, Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba & More. Book any of our tours before July 15, 2008 for departures from September 2008 to February 2009 and save $100. per couple. Guaranteed departures for two or more people for all our tours. For more info or to order our brochure contact: 5004 Timberlea Blvd, Suite 205 Mississauga, ON L4W 5C5 Tel.: 905-624-6300 Toll-free: 1-800-836-6836 Email: sales@gmtours.com www.gmtours.com Photo: Jim Pitts Jordan Tourism Board North America www.visitjordan.com Photo: Jordan Tourism Board The affably crew even managed to orchestrate an impromptu dance on the upper deck! Most of us joined in, cavorting to the quick-tempo of the recorded Arabic music, as we sailed by the coasts of Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia. Dead Sea Spas The following day, we headed back north and drove along the shore of the Dead Sea, which is the lowest place on earth. Because of constant evaporation, the water is 30 percent saline. The result is that when you lie in it, you cannot sink! Taking advantage of the health-giving quality of the salty water and the black shinny mud that is dredged from the depths of the Dead Sea, several luxury spa hotels grace its fairly steep shores. See Jordan on page 8 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 8 Jordan Continued from page 7 Swimming to the Sea I was fortunate to be staying at the 5star Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea. This extraordinary hotel features seven interconnecting pools starting from the high perch of the main building and descending in steps to the edge of the sea. One of my travelling companions and I literally swam our way to the sea, stopping at each pool for a refreshing dip! Once there, we rolled in laughter as the members of our group took turns slathering each other from head to foot in the pitch-black mud contained in pots along the rocky shore. After letting the mud dry, true spa aficionados then lie on their backs in the sea, making sure mot to get any of the salty water into their eyes or mouths. This was a truly unique experience! Bethany Beyond the Jordan A totally different experience awaited us the following day. We drove to the spot on the east bank of the River Jordan where Saint John is said to have baptized Jesus Christ. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Photo: George Fischer Whatever one’s beliefs, it was truly moving to walk along the pathways that led to the revered spot, which is marked by a sheltered baptismal font. Ironically, you could almost reach across the narrow rivurlet to Israel on the other bank. Fond Memories of Jordan With so many unique experiences awaiting you in this remarkable peaceful country, even the most jaded traveller will be astounded over and over again! Getting There Royal Jordanian Airlines Website: www.rja.com.jo Where to Stay Intercontinental Hotel Aqaba www.Intercontinental.com Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea www.kempinski-deadsea.com For More Info on Jordan Jordan Tourism Board North America 6867 Elm Street, Suite 102 McLean, VA 22101 Tel.: 703-243-7404/5 Toll-free: 1-877-seejordan (733-5673) Email: info@seejordan.org www.visitjordan.com Office National du Tourisme Tunisien 1253, av McGill College Montréal, Québec H3B 2Y5 Tél. : (514) 397-1182 Fax : (514) 397-1647 E-mail : tunisinfo@qc.aira.com Site Web : www.tourismtunisia.com 10 Mysterious Japan By Michael Morcos T here is something that has always intrigued me about Japan. It is where my Nikon camera, my Nissan car, and our Sony television were made. It is the origin of karate, the wonderful sushi, sake, and the land of the bullet train. It's a mystery how such a small island nation with few natural resources can dominate so many industries worldwide. My ten day tour of central Japan on the main island of Honshu would bring us to Mount Koya, the city of Sakai, Osaka, Yokohama, and finally Tokyo. See Japan on page 11 Photos: Michael Morcos Japan Continued from page 10 The weirdest one was from a termite company that had a monument for the termites they exterminated. Mt. Koya Getting to Mount Koya (Koyasan) was a thrilling bus ride that twisted and turned up a narrow cliff occasionally stopping to let small cars and motorcycles pass. Over one hundred temples stand in the small town on top of the wooded mountain. Koyasan is one of the best places to experience a night at a temple. About fifty temples in the area function as shukubo, where tourists are welcome to stay overnight, try shojin ryori, the vegetarian cuisine of monks and participate in the morning prayers. Mount Koya is the centre of Shingon Buddhism, a Buddhist sect that was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi (aka Kukai), one of the most significant personalities in Japan's religious history. Koyasan is home to an active monastic center founded twelve centuries ago by the priest Kukai for the study and practice of Esoteric Buddhism. It is the headquarters of the Koyasan sect of Shingon Buddhism, a faith with a wide following throughout Japan. Situated on a small plain at the top of Mount Koya is the sacred area known as the Danjo Garan, a complex of temples, halls, pagodas and Buddhist statues that welcome visitors to this serene and hallowed place. Danjogaran Complex The Konpon Daito pagoda is a very impressive site and is seen as a symbol of Koyasan. This great pagoda was struck by lightning five times and was last rebuilt in 1937. Many other historical buildings of great importance including Fudo Hall, the oldest building on the mountain, were found here. A very important part of the pilgrimage trail was witnessing individuals who were on their trail including a young monk who would read a long verse out of a book. Okuno-In Memorials Surrounded by a thick forest of massive cedars, the area known as Okuno-in, or the Inner Sanctuary, is the setting for a vast cemetery that features the mausoleum of numerous famous Japanese figures, including that of the samurai ruler Toyotomi as well as memorials to the spirits of soldiers killed in the Pacific War. Many well known Japanese companies buy plots here, placing large elaborate marble monuments with their company name engraved in them. Mizumuke Jizo Towards the back of the park was a holy shrine and large Buddha statues where worshippers commemorated their ancestors by pouring water over them three times before saying a prayer. The kids seemed to be totally amused by the ritual while the elderly were far more solemn bowing, closing their eyes and praying. Overnight Experience A major highlight of my trip to Japan was the overnight stay at a temple that was run by Buddhist monks. We checked in to the monastery just in time for the evening meditations. It was a great experience sitting in a dark room with the head master. It seemed as though not much happened. There was nary a sound and everyone was still. After an hour the head master turned to greet us and explained that we are all part of the same universe that is dominated by the Cosmic Buddha and by being still and quiet we would have the powers of this Buddha pass through us. He also made it clear that meditation is a lifetime practice and takes time to master. That evening we were treated to a vegetarian supper prepared by the monks which was served in a traditional 11 style on low tables, sitting on pillows on the floor. After supper we took Japanese style baths in a common room where men would first wash themselves while sitting on small chairs. This seemed a social event, as the men would discuss matters while lathering, scrubbing and rinsing themselves. Afterwards they would sit in a small pool of hot water almost too hot for comfort, and chat away the night. The total temple experience would have me in my own room that faced a beautifully and meticulously cared for Japanese garden. My room was simple with only a thin mattress on the floor, a small table and rice paper doors. What stood out was the contrast between these very traditional rooms and the state of art bathrooms with heated toilet seats and automatic self-flushing bowls. Our short Temple experience would end much too soon but not before a very early morning ceremony with five monks that had them chanting while playing drums and bells. I was moved by the devotion of the monks and their way of life, serene, juxtaposed against the everchanging quick paced world in which I live. Town of Swords Sakai is well known for its knife making, but has many other notable places including the burial place of the first Japanese emperor. The burial grounds are on a forested island in the heart of the city that is forbidden to everyone except the royal family. Legend has it that the first emperor was not even Japanese but a Korean which many consider scandalous. Our city walk brought us to many interesting temples and historical places including a well cared for Japanese public park. There we had a personnel unscheduled privet tour of the manicured grounds by a proud city gardener. See Japan on page 12 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 12 Our brief stay in Yokohama was at the redeveloped docks area of Minato Mirai 21 that has many high scale hotels, a convention centre and an amusement park. Among the many things to see in Yokohama is Japan's largest China town, the Landmark Tower; Japan's tallest tower with the fastest elevator and the Yokohama Museum of Art. Although Yokohama is thirty-five kilometres away from Tokyo, it is still part of a very large urban centre of Tokyo as travelling between the two cities found only more urban development. Japan Continued from page 11 We also had a tea tasting ceremony and a demonstration in traditional cookie making. Most interesting to me was a knife making shop that was owned and run by a long generation of sword makers. The pleasant husband and wife greeted us with warm inviting smiles and gave us a tour of the small production shop in the back. They explained the whole process of knife making had changed little over the centuries. They made everything from tailor's scissors to sushi chef knives and every samurai style sword which were all on display and for sale. Tokyo The Great Shinkansen The Shinkansen, also known as the bullet train, was first introduced in 1964. This Japanese state of-the-art transportation masterpiece remains a symbol of national pride. With much excitement we entered the Osaka train station to take the train to Yokohama. Like a little kid I marvelled at the sleek aerodynamic bullet trains that came and went on other platforms. With but a few minutes to spare I had to run to a different platform to take pictures of one that was stationed. Our train would arrive and depart at the exact times announced! No time deviations were permitted. Our train would bring us from Osaka to Yokohama at an astonishing 300 k/h. Even at this speed the ride was smooth enough that many of the passengers were able to sleep in their ever comfortable airplane style seats. Osaka Yokohama Osaka, Japan's third largest city is laid back compared to Tokyo. After pleasant conversations with several of its' citizens, my impression was that they thought of themselves as having a good living with all of the modern amenities yet at a slower gentler pace. Many Oskaians eat out as often as six times per week. Even though the city was hit hard during World War II there is still a balance between modern and historic buildings. Most notable is the contrast between the Umeda Sky building with its' futuristic two tower glass facade and Osaka Castle that was rebuilt to a smaller scale than its' original from 1586. One outstanding feature was the great pedestrian streets that seemed to go in all directions and are mostly covered to protect pedestrians from the elements. With the little time I spent in Osaka I was able to see the many stores that lined this area, but unfortunately did not buy many souvenirs here. Yokohama is Japan's second largest city. A large earthquake in 1923 destroyed 95% of the city and WW II bombings again destroyed more than half the city. Today the city is as modern as any to be found in Japan. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 No first time trip to Japan would be complete without a stop in Tokyo and this would prove to be a great city to end my trip. I would find out that there is nothing like this capitol city. What stood out the most is how clean the city was, the incredibly efficient subway system and the people, lots and lots of people, crowding every street. The Ginza District With so much to do and see I decided that I wanted to get a small feel of the different parts of Tokyo. The Ginza district located in central Tokyo was my first destination. I visited the five-floor Sony house to see the latest new electronic marvels, a Nissan show room that had an amazing high-end luxury sports car, and shopped at the classic Tokyo Mitsukoshi department store and its Kimono department and sampled its' exquisite food department. Luckily, I also managed to get in to the Kabuki-za theatre to experience a traditional Japanese play that is known for the stylization of its drama and for the elaborate costumes and make-up. I visited many other important and interesting districts: East Shinjuku where I See Japan on page 13 Travel Insurance Claims Corner A young man went to Nagano, Japan for a ski trip, when an accident occurred in which he broke his leg in several places, leaving him hospitalized. Total Bill for the Claim Provincial Government Coverage $ 22,000 CAD $ 825 CAD Japan Continued from page 12 was mesmerized by all the colourful, huge neon lights and signs, Shabuya district where I saw more young people than on most university campuses, the electronic district of Askaska where just about everything electronic (old and new) can be found and Ropponigi, the restaurant and music district. Fashionable Tokyo It is quite conceivable that Tokyo is the most fashionable city in the world. Its people are all well dressed, carefully choosing and paying attention to their appearance. Men are more conservative while the women dress up for an evening out all the time. Senso-ji Temple The Senso-ji temple in northern Tokyo is the city's most sacred and spectacular temple. The many buildings in the complex were all in traditional Japanese style. I spent a long time in this area and although there were many people it still had a serene feeling. The incense burner was a focal point and was constantly surrounded by people fanning smoke all over them to keep them healthy. In the main hall there was a ceremony going on as I was able to see and hear it but unfortunately its purpose remains a mystery to me. I also witnessed many locals going through their prayer rituals. In the same area was the Nakamisedori, which had many small shops selling traditional wares. This was the perfect time for me to catch up on my souvenir buying for family members including fans, combs and even antique Sake bottles. Tokyo Hilton My stay while in Tokyo was in the Tokyo Hilton situated in the West Shinjuku-Ku district; a stone throw away from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building. This district was extremely clean, quiet and safe and was near two major subway lines that made getting around Tokyo very easy. A private hotel shuttle ran by every twenty minutes between the hotel and the Shinjuku subway station, which is the worlds busiest train station with two million people passing through it every day. This was a great bonus as the hotel kept me away from the noise and congestion but the shuttle kept me close to it all. I had a spectacular view of the whole area from my 18th floor window. Office buildings filled the skyline. It was especially striking at night as they illuminated the night sky. My best meals while in Tokyo were had at the hotel. The breakfast buffet served American style foods but also had some traditional Japanese cuisine. This was a great way to start the day. By far the most memorable lunch was at the Musashino Japanese restaurant. Our personal chef prepared the fresh vegetables, rice and a Shabu Shabu (beef hotpot) meal on a grill right in front of us. The well-decorated restaurant and relaxed ambiance added to the delight of the experience. Call Sue at Ogilvy & Ogilvy 514-932-8660 or slanglois@ogilvy.ca We have the best rates! Berry music, young rock and roll 13 bands playing their hearts out, rappers, techno rockers… no this was not Central Park in New York but a weekly event every Sunday where the people of Tokyo gather to let it all out! Yoyogi is a must visit place for seeing the other side of Tokyo. As with any great city and country, three days in Tokyo and ten days in Japan is not nearly enough time to experience all its pleasures and culture. It was all I could do running around just to get a taste of this world-renowned city and country, tasting just enough to know that I wanted to return. I was already planning the trip on the plane home! If you go: Japan National Tourist Organization 481 University Avenue, Suite 306 Toronto , ON M5G 2E9 Tel.: 416-366-7140 www.jnto.go.jp Tokyo Hilton www.hilton.com or www1.hilton.com/en_US/hi/hotel/TYOHIT W-Hilton-Tokyo-hotel/index.do Sunday in Yoyogi Park A walk in this park is unlike any other park experience. At the entrance to the Yoyogi Park is a kaleidoscope of sounds and music; middle aged men dressed in fifties style clothing dancing to Chuck Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 14 Mongolia On the Steppes of Eastern Asia By By Erez Erez Gordon Gordon erez@mundusperegrinus.com M ention Mongolia and it conjures up images of fierce warriors ranging across Asia and Eastern Europe on horseback in a dominating display of imperialism. The unification of the country's various warring tribes in the 13th century created a culture that remains easily identifiable today, despite centuries of Manchurian rule and a more recent dose of heavy-handed Soviet influence. Geography explains much of this, since landlocked Mongolia lies between the two powerful nations of Russia to the north and China to the south. See Mongolia on page 15 Photos: Erez Gordon Mongolia 15 Continued from page 14 Ulan Bataar The capital Ulan Bataar or UB City, as locals refer to it, is a product of Mongolia's recent dalliance with the former USSR and its own unique history. In general, the architecture consists of simple concrete buildings with little adornment, except for the odd propagandist mosaic depicting moments in Soviet history. Scattered amongst these prosaic structures are traditional Mongolian nomad huts called gers, with their folding timber frames and felt walls. Able to be constructed in an hour and dismantled in half that time, gers remain a potent symbol of a persistent Mongolian culture. Mongol Empire Genghis Kahn who was responsible for the strength and success of the Mongol Empire, created an army feared for its ferocity and admired for its horsemanship. No other mounted force could match the Mongols in skill and strategy. A visit to Mongolia must therefore include at least some horseback riding. The tourist information centre in the centre of Ulan Bataar put me in touch with a local guide, Oyunbold, who met me at my hotel with a torrent of American English and a denim-clad swagger. Nadaam Festival Oyunbold is a new breed of Mongolian and a product of his country's recent history. His English is courtesy of working with Americans stationed in Mongolia, while he credits the Russians for his general education. He also confided that he is rather good with horses, having been raised as a herder's son and competing in the Nadaam festival as a child. This festival is held each year on July 11, also known as Revolution Day, when Mongolia celebrates its independence from China. The day is marked by a series of horse races, each over 30 kilometres long, and only employing child jockeys. Despite the obvious dangers and the often-resulting fatalities of both horses and jockeys, Oyunbold sighed wistfully at the memory of his youthful participation in the races. Zaisan Monument Our first stop before leaving UB City was at the Zaisan Monument for a small dose of Mongolian irony. The Russians constructed this highly stylized memorial to its fallen soldiers on a southern hilltop overlooking the city. See Mongolia on page 16 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 16 Mongolia Continued from page 15 Part of the monument is a fascinating account of Soviet achievement, told in tessellation or overlapping tiles. It depicts broad-shouldered cosmonauts, grim-looking soldiers and indomitable women. More interesting is the makeshift Shamanistic shrine called an ovoo at the rear of the monument. Gorkhi-Terelj National Park Leaving the UB city limits, we drove through a brown dusty landscape only recently exposed by the melting winter snows. A half hour later we turned north and entered the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. Almost immediately we dropped into a valley of green pastures at the foot of conifer-covered slopes. With the dramatic change in landscape came evidence of rural life. Clusters of gers lay in open fields, smoke rising from their chimneys. They were surrounded by small herds of livestock. Mongolians tend sheep, goats and horses, as well as Bactrian camels, the two humped variety. A herd of shaggy-haired yaks ambled across the road, forcing us to stop. As we headed down a rutted, muddy track toward a collection of gers and cattle corrals, Oyunbold yelled out the car window until an old man appeared wearing a traditional del, a long coloured robe tied with a bright wide sash. A cigarette rolled from newspaper hung from his lips. As master of the farm he would happily hire out his ponies for 3000 togrogs ($2.50 US) per hour. I was invited to wait inside his family's ger. Entering a Ger Mongolian Ovoos An ovoo is a mound of stones with a timber pole at the centre to which are tied multi-coloured prayer flags. Mongolians visiting an ovoo will walk around it three times in a clockwise direction adding a rock with each circuit. During the 1930's, the Stalin-influenced Mongolian communist government did its best to eradicate religion by destroying hundreds of monasteries and murdering thousands of monks. As the USSR disbanded, Mongolians quickly reverted to their old ways and erected a number of these ovoos. Oyunbold circled the ovoo three times praying for a safe journey and once we were back on the highway heading east out of the city, I understood why. The main road was nothing short of abominable. Pot holes and cracked bitumen made driving in a straight line impossible and at times left me gasping as we swung out into oncoming traffic to avoid another chasm. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Mongolia is filled with ritual and custom and being invited into a ger can be a complicated experience, as your host will take the idea of offering you hospitality quite seriously. There are a number of things to know before stepping inside. First of all, you must enter a ger forwards and exit backwards. Secondly, while inside the ger, always move in a clockwise direction, never lean on the centre pole, never point your feet at the altar or icons and only sit where you are told to. In such a small space, there is a strict demarcation between areas for men, women and visitors. Thirdly, you will be fed and you must not demur. There is no need to eat everything, but a small nibble of each item should be enough to satisfy your host. Tea & Biscuits I was shown to a low stool. The old man sat on his bed with arms akimbo, reminding me of Yul Brynner in 'The King and I', while his wife presented me with some boortsog and Mongolian milk tea. Boortsog is a dense flour biscuit cut into various geometric shapes and fried in the fat remaining in the pan from cooking meats. It was easy to imagine how a diet of boortsog might see you through a Mongolian winter, when the temperature falls below -40 Celsius. To wash this down, Mongolian milk tea, Suutei Tsai, is served in tin bowls. This is made with brick tea and cow's milk. Salt is added, as well as a dollop of butter to enrich the flavour. Also on the table was a semi-hard curd cheese made from 'first milk'. This airdried cheese uses the first milk of a cow that has recently calved. The ger was warm inside thanks to a central wood-fired stove and decorated with a mixture of the old and new world See Mongolia on page 17 Mongolia 17 Continued from page 16 artefacts. It was obvious that living in a portable felt hut did not require going without the convenience of a television or microwave oven. Riding through the Steppes The old man's son Miga arrived with the horses and I prudently confessed my inexperience. A quick conversation in Mongolian followed and it was agreed that Miga would accompany me at an extra cost. I happily agreed. I needn't have worried. During the entire time, my pony barely rose to more than a trot. Actually, riding through the Mongolian countryside at walking pace allowed me to absorb the cinematic scope of my surroundings. Miga and I rode through barebranched woods along dried riverbeds filled with worn boulders. Flat white sheets of the past winter's ice and snow still covered the banks. We ambled past resting cattle, ger farms and out onto a grassy plain in a wide valley set between snow-capped peaks. On the horizon, a dray pulled by a team of four galloping horses passed by. For the rest of the time, the only sounds I heard were the steady hoof-falls of our ponies and the regular sharp 'choo' sounds Miga made to goad them along. A Proud History For two hours astride my swaying saddle, I felt the Mongolian terrain rise and fall beneath me. I sensed the power of the landscape and marvelled at how the steppes of Eastern Asia remain to this day the cherished home of a nomadic people living harmoniously with such extreme physical and climatic conditions. To ride a horse in Mongolia is to delve a little deeper into the true Mongol nature and I highly recommend it. Mongolians may have rushed headlong into the 21st century but they have defiantly brought their proud history and unique culture along for the ride. For More Info: Mongolia Tourism Websites: www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn www.travelmongolia.org Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 18 India More than a journey... A life experience By Michael Morcos T here is a reason why the slogan "Incredible India!" is used to promote India. It is because there are literally no better words to describe this unbelievable country. My long awaited twelve-day trip through central India was definitely an educational and enlightening experience. Every day was a new day of discovery and like a child at the circus eagerly awaiting the next act I found all my senses filled. India was more than a vacation destination, more than a trip… it was a life experience. My first guide said, "India is a spiritual journey." That stopped me. It wasn't until my second guide echoed the exact same words that it made me want to find out what exactly they meant. See India on page 19 Photos: Michael Morcos India 19 Continued from page 18 State of Gujarat Situated on the Arabian Sea in central India, the state of Gujarat is often overlooked by travellers but there is plenty to see and do in this hot and arid part of the sub-content. Our first day in Ahmedabad would start with a two-hour car ride to see the fabulous Modhera Sun temple. Along the way I was thrilled by the landscape and rural village life including camel caravans, goat shepherds and water buffalo ranchers. The Sun temple was conspicuously devoid of people. I had this hidden gem all to myself. Precisely built in an east-west direction, sunrays would hit the centre of an inner chamber at high noon everyday. A large water basin dominated the area with elaborate carvings in the steps leading down to the fresh water reserve. The temples too were decorated with richly carved images of deities. Gujarat Step Wells The Gujarat Step Wells would be yet another amazing place to visit in the area. Again, I had this heritage site all to myself. This football size complex was mostly underground. Seven stories deep, the red sandstone walls and pillars had some 800 elaborately detailed carvings all the way down to the fresh water table. To my surprise there were other step wells in the area as we visited one closer to Ahmedabad. Most step wells were no longer in use and were now protected as heritage sites. The purpose of these wells was to provide a place of rest and replenishment for weary travellers. At the end of the day they would have a source of water for washing and drinking before another day of travel. Beautiful Art of Dyeing Indian Cowboy Lunching at a nearby restaurant, a group of men dressed in white linens and turbans congregated in the shaded outdoor terrace. They were having animated conversations while sipping tea. This intrigued me enough to ask my guide for an explanation as to who they were. 'Indian cowboys' was her response. That brought a smile to my face. It seemed that these were local cow owners (ranchers) that met on occasion to discuss their affairs. So totally absorbed were they that I sheepishly interrupted to ask permission to take pictures and received a humble welcome to do so. A side trip to the town of Patan brought us to a special home of a family that produced silk Patolas (sari) in a traditional and very labour intensive way. This process was once common and the people skilled with this craft many but there is but a couple of families left keeping the art form alive. The Patola that was to be weaved by two different threads both horizontally and vertically was first dyed with all natural colours at the precise place the two threads would meet. I could not imagine the patience it took to weave large pieces. Mistakes were not permitted, as this would render the piece useless and the months of labour producing the piece lost. Waiting time for a specially made Patola is an astonishing six years. Again, I was struck by the people's humility and kindness. My second and last day in Ahmedabad, would prove to be very full. Our morning started at the Siddi Saiyad Mosque, a very simple building open to the elements. The most striking feature was 'the Tree of Life' carving that was made out of one piece of stone with extraordinary detail that let light shine through it. Also, interesting was the intricately carved Hatheesing Hindu temple dedicated to Dharmanath. This Hindu temple was of the Jain sect, a people who believed in non-violence and were vegetarian. The most orthodox of this sect would not even eat potatoes and onions because they believed it caused great pain to these plants when uprooted. Gandhi's Ashram Having watched the movie 'Gandhi' before leaving on my trip, I found the Sabarmati Ashram where Mahatma Gandhi lived for fifteen years a very interesting place. Situated in a quiet area by the riverfront, the complex had a museum dedicated to the life of the 'Father of India'. His cottage was a very simple structure while his personal room only had a few items. I also learned the famous 200-mile 'Salt March' was started from this area. See India on page 20 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 20 India Continued from page 19 Other places of interest visited were the historical Jami Masjid Mosque which Sultan Ahmed Shah built in 1423, The Rani Sipri mosque with its beautiful facade and slender minarets, and The Colico museum, a very important textile museum that housed royal tents, carpets, cloth paintings and costumes. The old town found inside the city walls is a trip back in time with its small streets, spice market and bazaar atmosphere. Mumbai My stay in Mumbai was limited to only two nights, which is surely not enough time for this cosmopolitan city, but I still managed to visit very important and interesting places. Dhobi Ghat An interesting visit to the local Dhobi Ghat (Laundromat) saw many young men working hard cleaning clothes. Workers would clean all the clothes individually by soaking the garment in soapy water and then beating them on a hard surface. In a different area the clothes were placed on lines to be air dried in the hot sun. This scenario repeated itself many times over and I could not help but think how strong and fit these men must be to do all this manual work day after day Interesting Schoolhouse Next to the Laundromat was an oldfashioned schoolhouse. I noted how simple the classroom was and the amount of primary school students that packed the small room. From the tree lined park there were spectacular views of the Mumbai ocean front and the boulevard named 'the queens necklaces' that winds its way in a semi-circle as far as the eye could see. Victoria Terminus The Victoria Terminus was yet another UNESCO world heritage site in Mumbai that I visited on the same day. This was a stunning Victorian Gothic building made mostly of red bricks but also had stone carvings, stained glass windows and statues, all exquisitely detailed. A very unique building, I appreciated the many arches, oriental style domes and spires. This busy train station has a mind boggling 1000 trains and two million passengers go through it daily. Oval Ground While inching along in the late afternoon traffic I was intrigued by an extra large field where many young men were playing cricket. See India on page 21 Elephanta Island A 45-minute boat trip from the Mumbai harbour brought us to Elephanta Island to see a remarkable UNESCO world heritage site. The cave temple that is dedicated to Lord Shiva was located 125 steps up a steep hill where many exquisite statues were etched right into the mountain. I marvelled at the details in the many huge art pieces that depicted the Hindu god Shiva in many well-known Hindu stories. Shamefully, Portuguese soldiers used these masterpieces for target practice and broke many statues. The three-headed Shiva statue Mahesamurti, the largest sculpture, found in the back of the cave was spared due to it being concealed behind large wooden doors. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Boys and girls shared wooden benches and worked harmoniously with each other. I lingered watching them smiling as I did so, remembering my own early school years when life was much simpler and the world was an innocent place. Hanging Park The city water reserve was found at the highest point in Mumbai. It also doubled as one of the city's best-kept parks. This area was in the more affluent part of town as apartments were beyond the affordability of even most westerners. India Continued from page 20 In haste I asked my driver to pull over and I dashed through the cars to witness India's most popular sport being played by tomorrow's stars. With the British style architecture of the Bombay high court and the Bombay University towers as a back drop, palm trees lining the perimeter of the grounds, the ever enthusiastic amateur players played in the hot sun. It felt like a quintessential Mumbai moment. Gandhi's Bombay Home In as little as two days I was now visiting the second place of residence of Gandhi. Like his home in Ahmadabad, his living quarters were very simple and were kept just as he had lived. A small room with a balcony had only a frameless thin bed, a small table and his famous spinning wheel. This was yet another lesson learned about the simple life. Madhya Pradesh The State of Madhya Pradesh located in central India has much to offer the visitor and like the state of Gujarat, it too is often overlooked. This state has two mountain ranges and prides itself on having some of the most forested areas in India including two national parks teaming with wildlife including the Indian tiger. In my new area of discovery I would visit among many things a memorable temple in Indore, the great Stupa of Sanchi, the Bhimbetka caves and experience the easygoing atmosphere of Bhopal. band must be disposed of properly 21 and not just thrown away. This meant throwing it into a certain specific river for example. I have not disposed of mine as yet. I still wear it to this day. Another very interesting place I visited in Indore was the Central Museum with a superb and diverse collection of Indian and Western art. Lalbag Palace was very impressive in its interior structure, particularly the grand ballroom. Kanch Mamdir Temple had an amazing interior made of small coloured glass pieces and small mosaic mirror pieces that gave off a surreal feel while in there. The old town is a fascinating place to walk around at night and is famous for street food and gold and silver merchants. To Be Continued Join us again in our summer issue as we continue our journey through India visiting such places as Sanchi, Bhopal, Delhi and Agra. Indore Temple Experience If you go: The Khajrana Ganesh Hindu Temple in Indore was a far different experience than my earlier visits to the previously mentioned sparsely populated temples. I could not believe the amount of people here and it was only mid-week! I later found out the numbers swell up to 20,000 people on the holiday. The large temple area had many smaller places of worship, each one with a different Hindu god. In each one I was greeted with smiles and given small gifts. In the main central temple I was honoured to meet the main Guru who waved me over past the guards. He first placed a large fresh flower reef around my neck, then sweets in my hand and finally tied a cloth band on my wrist. I found out from my guide this was the band of god and it would help me attain my goals. I was also informed that this India Tourism 60 Bloor Street W. Suite 1003 Toronto, ON M4W 3B8 Tel.: 416-962-3787 indiatourism@bellnet.ca www.incredibleindia.org Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 22 Chicago America’s Remarkable Windy City By Mike Cohen Photos: Illinois Tourism & Chicago Convention & Tourism Bureau info@mikecohen.ca T he Windy City of Chicago, located on the southern shore of Lake Michigan, is a bustling, energetic place that never stops, no matter the season. It's a destination with world-class cultural attractions, diverse neighbourhoods and a wealth of architectural wonders. Chicago is widely known for its critically acclaimed restaurants, world-famous museums, first-class shopping, adventurous nightlife, action-packed sporting events and thriving theater scene. See Chicago on page 23 Chicago 23 Continued from page 22 Vibrant Theatre Chicago's theatre industry pushes the envelope with cutting-edge performances on historic and state-of-the-art stages. The Chicago Theatre Goodman, LaSalle Bank, Cadillac Palace, Auditorium Theatre of Roosevelt University and the Ford Center have made visiting the city's downtown core a must for theatre lovers. Applause, Applause! Distinctive theaters can also be found throughout Chicago's neighborhoods. Theatres like the Steppenwolf and The Second City are woven into the fabric of local districts, solidifying Chicago's reputation as a world-class theatre destination. Until I visited this exciting Midwestern city for the first time, I always thought one had to travel to New York City to see true Broadway productions. Was I wrong! A Wicked Success! Wicked, the Broadway musical phenomenon telling the previously untold story of the Witches of Oz continues to cast its spell on Chicago audiences in an unprecedented run at the Ford Center (24 W. Randolph Street). This wildly popular production by its Chicago cast opened in June 2005 and has since become the city's longest running Broadway musical. The ticket hot line of 'Broadway In Chicago' (the portal for many of the city's theatres) is 312-902-1400. Tickets can also be obtained online at ticketmaster.com. In the Navy Millennium Park Navy Pier is the city's lakefront playground and the state's most popular destination, offering visitors a unique blend of activities for individuals, couples, families and groups. This is a must-see attraction! Chicago's most recent global icon is Millennium Park, which opened in 2004. The 24.5-acre park became an instant world-class attraction and Chicago landmark. It contains an outdoor performing arts pavilion, an indoor year-round theatre, a restaurant, a skating rink and a contemporary garden. This remarkable park also features public art, fountains, a promenade area for special events, landscaped walkways and lots of lush green spaces. Other Chicago Must-sees Other Chicago must-see sights include Buckingham Fountain at Grant Park, the Hancock Observatory and the view from the Sears Tower Skydeck. A Myriad of Museums The city is world-renowned for its diverse museums, which explore a variety of subjects including Chicago history, fine arts, African-American culture, astronomy, natural history and much more. Visitors should plan on spending quite some time at the Museum Campus. See Chicago on page 24 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 24 Chicago Continued from page 23 This scenic lakeside park offers convenient direct access to the Adler Planetarium & Astronomy Museum, the Shedd Aquarium/Oceanarium and the Field Museum of Natural History. Something for Everyone Other premier Chicago museums include the Chicago History Museum (the city's oldest cultural institution); McCormick Tribune Freedom Museum (Chicago's latest museum); the Museum of Science and Industry; the DuSable Museum of AfricanAmerican History; the Art Institute of Chicago (recognized as one of the world's leading art museums); the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Contemporary Photography. Outstanding Attractions In addition to world-renowned museums, Chicago is home to a variety of spectacular attractions. The Chicago Cultural Center is described as a "neoclassical masterpiece" that features two art-glass domes and glittering mosaic walls. The many galleries in the Cultural Center exhibit local contemporary art as well as notable works of artists hailing from around the world. Six Flags Great America Six Flags Great America (www.sixflags. com/greatAmerica) is located in Gurnee, Illinois, half way between Chicago and Milwaukee. The 31-year-old park, which is open May through October, boasts eight themed sections, a 13-acre water park called Hurricane Harbor, three especially themed children's areas and various other forms of family-oriented entertainment. There are 13 roller coasters, including everything from traditional woodies to a bone-rattling hypercoaster. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Altogether the park boasts over 75 rides and attractions. If you purchase a special flash pass, you will have the benefit of not having a long wait in line for some of the more popular rides. Unique Architecture Visitors from around the world come to Chicago, the birthplace of the modern building, to admire its architectural marvels. From historic landmark buildings to contemporary technological masterpieces, Chicago is built in the unique and innovative designs that have shaped American architecture. Chicago is home to the world's first skyscraper designed by William Le Baron Jenney in 1885. Although his Home Insurance Building no longer stands, Chicago is today the home of three of the world's 10 tallest buildings including the 110-storey Sears Tower (the tallest in North America), which opened in 1974. Other landmark buildings include the Chicago Cultural Center, completed in 1897 in the Beaux Arts style; Adler and Sullivan's 1889 Auditorium Building; and the Art Deco era Chicago Board of Trade Building, designed by Holabird and Root in 1929. Extended Stays When visiting Chicago for an extended stay of 10 nights or more like we did, you will want to find accommodations that are comfortable, affordable and conveniently situated. Homewood Suites (www.homewoodsuiteschicago.com) is located right in the heart of downtown at 40 East Grand See Chicago on page 25 Chicago 25 Continued from page 24 Avenue. Guests can overlook Chicago's well-known architectural landmarks while enjoying their daily complimentary 'Suite Start' hot breakfast or the 'Welcome Home' reception, featuring a complimentary light meal including beverages, on Monday through Thursday evenings. With the hotel's fully equipped kitchens in every suite, you can enjoy all the convenience and comforts of home during your entire Chicago stay. Dining Out Right next door to the Homewood Suites is the best restaurant in town. In 2000, Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab™ (www.icon.com/joes) opened its doors in Chicago. The Chicago Joe's builds upon the grand tradition that began in the Miami Beach dining establishment of the same name in 1921 by adding a uniquely urban twist to the dining experience. The restaurant's signature dishes of stone crab claws with mustard sauce and bone-in filet mignon are both exceptional but Joe's also features an extensive selection of fresh seafood, flown in for the restaurant on a daily basis. Excursion to Lisle If you are in Chicago during the summer, another "must" excursion is to the Village of Lisle. In the Lisle Park District (www.lisleparkdistrict.org) you will find Sea Lion Aquatic Park, one of the most attractive water-feature facilities I have ever experienced. It boasts two exhilaratingly fast, steep body flume slides and two drop slides. Its Teen Leisure Pool is designed for ages 12 and up and its baby pool and sand play area features age-appropriate interactive water play activities for children aged five and under. There is even a mini-lazy river and an outdoor Jacuzzi. What a perfect place for a family outing! The River Bend Golf Club (www.riverbendgolfclub.org) is just down the road at 5900 S. Route 53. Rated as one of the top three nine-hole courses in the state of Illinois, it is also home to a great dining spot, The View Restaurant & Bar. Second to None After visiting Chicago, most would have to admit that this fascinating and entertaining city is second to none! For More About Chicago Chicago Convention & Tourism Bureau 2301 S. Lake Shore Drive Chicago, IL 60616 Tel.: 312-567-8500 Fax: 312-567-8533 Website: www.choosechicago.com Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 26 European Family Vacation The Dream Comes True By Natalie Ayotte T he thought of a family vacation to Europe would always excite me. My husband and I talked about such a trip for the past decade. Our kids Mathieu 17 and Jasmine 15 were getting to the age where they would soon start summer jobs or plan trips with friends.. We had to do it. It was now or never. After much reading and researching we decided on a three-week vacation in France, Monaco, Italy and Greece. See Europe on page 27 Photos: Michael Morcos Europe Continued from page 26 Planning Ahead Looking for suitable family accommodations was at times a frustrating exercise especially in cities that we knew little about. We needed to find hotels in Paris, Nice, Florence and Athens. We finally decided we would stay at one hotel chain. The Best Western chain of hotels website made it all easy. We returned to the same site many times to get more detailed location info including maps of each hotel and all their amenities. Once we chose the hotels we wanted, the actual booking took less than fifteen minutes. We decided against renting a car for transportation. We thought the conveniences of having our own car was outweighed by the stress of getting in and out of these congested cities, compounded by the fact that parking in these cities is not always easy. We felt the best way to travel the long distances was by using the efficient railway systems in France and Italy with a convenient Eurail pass for each person. Paris Four days was surely not enough for this magnificent French capitol but by following my husbands' agenda we would see the city's most important sites. Our first destination was on everyone's list: The Tour d'Eiffel. We opted to walk to the site and with a city so steeped in history it was inevitable we would get sidetracked. Along the way were the Champs-Élysées and the many stores that lined this magnificent landmark boulevard. Our daughter Jasmine, a wallet full of Euros in her pocket, had to stop along the way to spend money. Our son Matt found his own favourite stores while my eversmiling husband took pictures and videos of the well-dressed Parisians socializing at the outdoor cafes. As for me, I simply stood there, eyes closed for a moment, overwhelmed by the sudden realization that our dream was no longer a dream, but reality! I opened my eyes, and watched my family scurry about, content. 27 Arc de Triomphe Onward we strolled until we reached the Arc de Triomphe. What a sight! There was so much to see at the monument but time was running late and my husband said we had to move on and so, we were unable to give the Arc the proper attention it deserved. However, just standing under the massive structure that is such a recognizable Parisian landmark was quite a thrill! Eiffel Tower The Tour d'Eiffel was now in sight. Winding our way through the small side streets, we would get teasing glimpses of this giant, growing ever bigger as we neared. We were so excited at the thought of finally arriving that we almost missed the superb Palais de Chaillot. Determined not to get diverted again we snapped off dozens of pictures and ran to our final destination. Getting to the top of the Eiffel Tower was an experience in itself. There was a two and a half hour line up for the elevators and so with a deep breath, we resolved to climb the steps! 328 steps up to the first level and 340 steps up to the second level! Catching our breath we looked up to incredible views of Paris and its many landmark buildings. The Tower was built for the World's Fair marking the centennial celebration of the French Revolution but was not always so welcome. The Parisians at the time found it an eyesore against the Paris skyline, so much so that they had made plans to demolish it after the Fair! Alexander is a work of art disguised as a bridge. Unbelievable statues line the two sides. We went through Place Vendome where Jasmine and Mattieu argued playfully as to what to do next. Jas wanted to shop some more at the upscale shops and Matt wanted to get back to the hotel to get some rest. At a stalemate, they looked to my husband and myself. It was no contest. Matthieu won. Whirlwind Tour The following days we would see a lot more of Paris including the world class Louvre museum, the historical Notre Dame Cathedral, the department store Le Printemps, La Madeleine church, Le Opera, Le Quartier Latin, the Les Halles district and day trip out of the city to see the awe-inspiring Château de Versailles. Côte d'Azur France's TGV or high-speed train whisked us quickly and comfortably from northern France to the warmer climate of the French Riviera. See Europe on page 28 Parisian Promenade Tired from the climb we decided to walk back to the L'Horset Opera hotel, near the Paris Opera house. Of course, Paris being the city it is, one cannot take a walk without coming across ever more landmarks. We walked along the Parc des Champs des Mars at the end of which is the Ecole Militaire, one of the most prestigious French military academies in France. We cut through les Invalide where Napoleon's remains rested. The Pont Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 28 Europe Continued from page 27 Nice would be our base city for the next three days as we planned to take day trips from there to see Monaco and the always charming village of Saint-Paul de Vence Our hotel, The West End Hotel was in the heart of it all and faced the Mediterranean Sea. We changed gear from the hectic pace of Paris and instead spent many relaxing moments just sitting on the balcony listening to the waves crashing on the beach or watching the locals walking the Avenue des Anges (Angels). Nightly walks along the waterfront and dining on the pedestrian streets were a welcome change to the marathon tour of Paris. I could understand that they were exhausted by the over charged program but I secretly suspected Matt wanted to check if the girls really did sunbathe topless. I was not sure what to expect from this trip but my husband assured me this was a recommended site in our guidebook. I was not disappointed. It was love at first sight! Small winding cobblestone streets, beautiful little boutiques, coffee houses and quaint restaurants all made for a romantic day away from the kids. Venice Monaco The Principality of Monaco, a constitutional monarchy, made an everlasting impression on us all. Even at a glance, Monaco was stunning. Our day here turned out to be one of my favourites of our whole vacation. We started our day on top of the hill, giving a perfect view of the many twisting city roads and the luxury yachts in the aqua-blue harbour. We slowly made our way to the centre of town to the Casino Royal. Matt was very excited by the many expensive cars that filled the streets. It seemed there were more high-end luxury convertible cars than Matt could possibly photograph. Our walk brought us to another hill, this one with the Royal palace perched on top offering a spectacular 360-degree view. I found myself daydreaming while looking out at the beautiful city of Princess Grace and the fairy tale Royal family. Saint-Paul de Vence Jas and Matt opted to spend the day at the beach while my husband and I took a bus to the medieval hill town of Saint Paul. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Our over night train trip to Venice would have been the perfect comedy show. Although our cabin was clean and comfortable it was obviously too small for a family of four. Loaded down with lots of luggage and newly bought items our sleeper was tight but we made the best of it. It wasn't much of a laughing matter at the time, but I sit here chuckling at the memory. Venice was like a post card. We all marveled at its beautiful canals and small allies. Gondolas and small boats carefully navigated the quiet waterways as we crossed the many bridges that spanned this island city on our way to the lagoon area. Hot and crowded with tourists we spent the day doing what most tourists do, sightsee. Our first stop was the Piazza San Marco and the nearly thousand-year-old cathedral that contained his remains. We took a well-needed rest at the three hundred year old landmark Caffè Florian. Jas could not believe how many pigeons filled the enormous square. She tried to feed them and they jumped all over people in order to get to her while Matt conversely found it amusing to chase them away and see a cloud of pigeons fill the sky. The brief visit brought us to the Rialto Market. Merchants sold everything from tourist souvenirs, to finely made Venetian glass and carnival masks to vegetables and even the days catch in the fish market. Below us was the Grand Canal, the biggest waterway in Venice; it looked like rush hour in Manhattan on water! Florence The city of art was now our base for three days, as we would explore the province of Tuscany. We all had wished we had more time in Florence. My husband wished we had more time at the Uffizi museum to see the many other renaissance masterpieces that filled the city. Jas could not get enough shopping for fashionable Italian clothing. See Europe on page 29 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Europe Continued from page 28 Mat wanted more time to eat the famous Tuscan beefsteaks while I wanted a break from it all and just people watch while sipping a cappuccino in this great Italian gem. Our hotel Lauras was perfectly situated in the heart of the city and we would walk to the main sites. Our visit brought us to the Piazza della Signoria where amongst many incredible gems was Michelangelo's colossal statue of David. Also close by was the fantastic Ponte Vecchio bridge. The famous 11th century Duomo (St. Maria del Fiore) was only a block away and was clearly visible as we sat and had breakfast on the hotel's balcony on the roof. We were close to many great restaurants and the luxury stores on Via Tornabuoni, the San Lorenzo market and the Santa Maria Novella train station. Pisa Yes, the tower of Pisa was leaning! But we had to see it for ourselves. Our day trip to Pisa brought us to the world famous icon. A beautiful building on its own it sits in the Campo dei Miracoli or field of dreams. We all took turns doing the clichéd tourist thing: taking individual pictures of ourselves pushing the leaning tower down. Unoriginal yes, but fun nonetheless! Piazza del Campo. Here twice a year bareback horse races are held to the delight of the fans filling the whole square. 29 Rome Sienna Our Eurail pass made it very easy for us to jump on and off trains on local routes. Sienna was a real delight. Perched on top of a hill, we found ourselves buying bread, cold cuts and even wine and having a great picnic in the heart of this medieval town. Dominating the city was the Palazzo Pubblico (town hall), which was built in 1326 and found in the public space We had but a day to enjoy the eternal city as we had a plane to catch to Greece. Rome is a great walking city and our day started by visiting the incredible Coliseum and Roman forum. Surprisingly to me, both Mat and Jas loved the ruins and I was startled when they started taking pictures. We slowly made our way towards the Vatican. No trip to Rome would be complete without visiting the Holy Capitol of Catholicism. No matter how much you've read, no matter how much you've heard, you cannot help but have your breath taken away when entering. We followed up with a trip the Pantheon. The "Temple of all the gods" is the best-preserved building from Roman times and had the largest dome in the world until 1436 when the Florence Cathedral was constructed. Close by, we visited the Piazza Navona with its Fountain of the four Rivers and an Egyptian obelisk. See Europe on page 30 We w ill pay y when our GST you p this A resent d Enter a draw for free night stay and breakfast at www.vacation1000islands.com Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 30 Europe Continued from page 29 The last site of the day was the Fontana di Trevi. Truly a masterpiece, we had to wrestle our way through the crowds to get to the front. Legend has it if you toss a coin in the fountain you would return again to Rome. And so we all took turns throwing coins over our shoulders into the fountain hoping to one day return to this great city. After all, a snapshot is all one can hope for in a day. Athens Athens was our last big city before our seven-day retreat to Crete. Our three days in Athens were very hot with the temperate reaching 38 degrees Celsius. Our days were leisurely spent at the very impressive National Archaeological Museum. It houses some of the most important artifacts from a variety of archaeological locations around Greece dating from prehistory to late antiquity. We were all impressed by the many well-preserved pieces of artwork. My favourites pieces were the Antikythera Ephebe and the mask of Agamemnon. The following day we visited the Acropolis, which was situated on top of a hill in the middle of Athens. A very impressive site it was, filled with tourists and justifiably so. My husband and the kids loved the spectacular view of Athens and we took our time while perusing the most important monuments such as the Parthenon, the Erechtheon, the Propylaea and a small temple for Athena Nike. Our nights were spent at the Plaka where we enjoyed great food and shopped for gifts and souvenirs. Mat was in heaven as souvlaki was the order of the day, everyday. The portions were extra large and by the intense look on his face while eating, I would conclude very tasty. Jas could not resist shopping for gifts while I looked to find that very special gift for my Uncle in Crete, our next stop. Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008 Crete In a word… Heaven! The last leg of our trip was spent like kings and queens. Our stay would be on a hill top house that was surrounded by centuries old olive groves. From the large wrap around balcony we would enjoy our breakfasts and dinners with breath taking views of the surrounding countryside. On one side were the central mountains that showed snow in the winters. The middle view was of the valley filled with olive trees and to the left were the crystal clear blue waters of the Mediterranean. My Uncle Marcel and friend Emmanuel were the perfect hosts to a perfect ending of our European trip. A few years back he and Emmanuel decided to leave hectic pace and cold winters of Montreal and built a small castle like house on family land. We would spend our remaining days on the sandy beaches and our nights eating garden grown meals before venturing into the beautiful harbour cities of Rethymno and Chania. rabbits for food. Jas was horrified and wanted to open all the cages and set them free. She didn't. However she did spend considerable time bemoaning their fate. Europe in our hearts Until my husband mentioned it, I had not realized that we had never spent 3 weeks together on vacation. Nor had we ever spent that long with the kids on vacation. This trip was more than visiting France, Italy and Greece. It was, as I mentioned earlier, a lifetime dream come true. A dream shared, a dream fulfilled, with family. Three weeks spent together, experiencing the history, the culture, and the beauty of these places. The memories will last a lifetime. If you go: Maison de la France Tel.: 514-288-2026 www.franceguide.com Italian Government Tourist Board Tel.: 416-925-4882 www.italiantourism.com and www.enit.it Many special moments were had while in Crete. On one occasion we visited the oldest tree in all of Greece. The olive branches from this tree were used in making the victory crowns for medal winners during the Athens summer Olympic Games. Equally special was a visit to Emmanuel's fathers' home where he grew Greek National Tourism Organization Tel.: 416-968-2220 www.gnto.gr Best Western Hotels www.bestwestern.com Eurail www.eurail.com China National Tourist Office Tel.: 416-599-6636 Email: cnto@tourismchina-ca.com www.tourismchina-ca.com