spirits with sophistication
Transcription
spirits with sophistication
s e i k n i P SPEED TASTING REPORT QUARTERS NOBU HARD ROCK WAS HEAD FOR OUR “SPIRITS WITH ING SOPHISTICATION” SPEED TAST by Meridith May / photos by Mona Shield Payne Our Panelists (left to right): Raul Faria, Mixologist at Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill, Caesars Palace; Meridith May, Publisher/Editorial Director, THE TASTING PANEL; Cody Fredrickson, Bartender at Paris Las Vegas; Mariena Mercer, Mixologist/GM at The Cosmopolitan; and Jeremy Merritt, Mixology Consultant. october 2014 / the tasting panel / 113 TP1014_098-132.indd 113 9/26/14 2:20 PM SPEED TASTING REPORT More Panelists! (left to right): Ricardo Murcia, Property Mixologist at The Bellagio; Jeff Evans,GM/Sommelier at N9NE Steakhouse at The Palms; Juyoung Kang, Mixologist at BLVD Cocktail Company at The Linq; Dave Ponte, Bar Manager at NOBU, Caesars Palace (seated); Tim Weigel, Mixologist at Hakkasan, MGM Grand Hotel; and our host, Josh Monisavis, Bar Manager at NOBU Hard Rock. MEET THE PANELISTS Josh Monisavis Dave Ponte Cody Fredrickson Raul Faria Juyoung Kang A city built in the lap of luxury, Las Vegas is an adult dreamland, catering to the ultimate wishes of visitors and offering opulence at every turn. Likewise, there are spirits that embody this level of class and elegance, with enough refinement to make even Sinatra sing. It’s this inspiration that brought the following brands together at NOBU HARD ROCK for our latest Speed Tasting adventure: “Spirits with Sophistication.” Each brand had ten minutes to prepare a sophisticated cocktail to best show off its illustrious flavor profile and tasteful character. Ricardo Murcia Tim Weigel Mariena Mercer Jeff Evans Jeremy Merritt Meridith May Bar Manager, NOBU Hard Rock Bar Manager, NOBU Caesars Palace Bartender, Paris Las Vegas Mixologist, Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill, Caesars Palace Mixologist, BLVD Cocktail Company at The LINQ Property Mixologist, Bellagio Mixologist, Hakkasan at MGM Grand Hotel Mixologist/GM, The Cosmopolitan GM/Sommelier, N9NE Steakhouse at The Palms Mixology Consultant Publisher/Editorial Director, THE TASTING PANEL WHEEL OF FORTUNE: ROCA PATRÓN Think of it: It takes a Mexican artisan, an entallador, almost a month to create just one tahona wheel from four tons of stone. It’s this stone (roca in Spanish) that slowly and continually rolls over the cooked agave to break the fibers and release the juice. Labor intensive and time consuming, this traditional method of processing tequila is what sets Roca Patrón apart. The juice and fibers are then placed together into wood vats for 72 hour-fermentation, then put in copper pot stills and twice distilled. The Bets Are In: “Roca Patrón Silver, on its own, is broad and focused, tremendously textural, with sugared mocha and black tea notes. The aroma off the dehydrated grapefruit and the David Homan, Nevada Area chipotle spice add herbal sweet and hot Manager at Patrón Spirits. to this agave-resonant tequila. Fresh and delicious! ” —Cody Fredrickson, Paris Las Vegas “The tequila has ginger, smoke, lemon and volcanic salt—reminiscent of a great mezcal. The drink, a great twist on the Paloma, balances the richness of the tequila. ” —Jeff Evans, N9NE Steakhouse, The Palms Hotel LA FLOR ♠ 1½ oz. Roca Patrón Silver ♠ ½ oz. green Chartreuse ♠ 1½ oz. fresh pink grapefruit juice ♠ 1 oz. grapefruit soda ♠ Dehydrated grapefruit slice garnish (brushed with agave nectar, pink Himalayan sea salt and dry chipotle pepper) 114 / the tasting panel / october 2014 TP1014_098-132.indd 114 9/29/14 2:28 PM KING OF THE JUNGLE: SELVAREY RUM Selvarey’s Master Blender is the legendary Francisco “Don Pancho” Fernandez, who once worked in Cuba with Havana Club Distilleries and became the Cuban Minister of Rum. He left Cuba and purchased fields of sugarcane and a sugar mill in Chitré, in the jungles off the Gulf of Panama. Selvarey White is a blend of three- and five-yearold rums, distilled in 1922 copper column stills, aged in bourbon casks and carbon-filtered to remove the color without losing the deep flavors imparted from the aging process. The three-year-old rum brings youth and vibrancy, which is then rounded off by the full-bodied richness of the mature five-year-old. The Bets Are In: “A finely aged rum that balances the sugar cane with the finesse of barrel aging—neither overshadowing nor fighting for the spotlight. The cocktail is perfect to sip by the pool on a hot Las Vegas day. This interpretation of the Piña Colada is bright and acidic without the weight and viscosity of Mixologist Marcos Tello cream.” —Mariena Mercer, The Cosmopolitan let the Selvarey rum shine “Selvarey White rum has character: Guava and through in his Panama Piña other tropical notes come on initially, with cinnamon, Colada, a modernized twist vanilla on the finish. The rum allows the fruit juices on the classic cocktail. in the cocktail to shine through, and this would make a great base for any tiki cocktail! ” —Tim Weigel, Hakkasan at MGM Grand Mor Mix N9N at B Man Mix Jos PANAMA PIÑA COLADA ♥ 2 oz. Selvarey White Rum ♥ ¾ oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut ♥ ¼ lime, squeezed and dropped in ♥ 2 oz. fresh pineapple juice ♥ Pineapple leaf garnish A eve leve ma the for Sop sop FRENCH ELEGANCE: LE GRAND COURTÂGE SPARKLING WINE pro ME Jos Entrepreneur Tawnya Falkner imagined creating an elegant yet affordable French sparkling wine, a cuisine and cocktail-friendly bubbly styled for the American palate. The grapes used for this Charmat-method Blanc de Blancs Brut are a veritable Tour de France: Chardonnay from Burgundy, Chenin Blanc from the Loire, Ugni Blanc from the Cognac region and Colombard from Gers. Available in 750-ml. and 187-ml. bottles, Le Grand Courtâge Blanc de Blancs Brut or Brut Rosé makes for a lovely sipper or adds sophistication to sparkling cocktails. Jim Pollock from Le Grand Courtâge. The Bets Are In: “The Brut’s aroma is bright and fresh with delicate bubbles. Pretty floral tones and a creamy middle with a dry finish. The cocktail is perfect for brunch, creating bigger, even brighter citrus flavors. ” —Raul Faria, Gordon Ramsey Pub & Grill, Caesars Palace “Le Grand Courtâge’s blending of grape varieties shows off a beautiful dichotomy of creamy and yeasty, while still remaining floral and bright. The cocktail is so refreshing; I can picture drinking it in a Parisian café.” —Mariena Mercer, The Cosmopolitan Dav Cod Rau Juy Ric Tim NOMAYO ♣ 1½ oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ♣ ¾ oz. St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur ♣ ½ oz. Aperol ♣ Top with Le Grand Courtâge Blanc de Blancs Brut ♣ Orange peel garnish Jef Jer Mer october 2014 / the tasting panel / 115 TP1014_098-132.indd 115 Ma 9/26/14 2:20 PM SPEED TASTING REPORT PAWS AND EFFECT: BUMMER & LAZARUS GIN For those of us who believe that dogs are natural heroes, Bummer and Lazarus prove us right beyond the tales of Lassie and Rin Tin Tin. These former strays of San Francisco’s 19th century were revered for cleaning the city of its vermin. So heralded were they that, upon their deaths, 30,000 people attended Lazarus’s funeral and Mark Twain, a great fan of the city, wrote Bummer’s eulogy. The one-man operation that is Raff Distillerie is run by owner and Master Distiller—and fifth-generation San Franciscan—Carter Raff, who manufactured all his 200-gallon stills from scratch and built his own bottling line and pump heads. And then there’s the gin: Only 850 bottles made at a time (that’s one run of the still), this 100% California grape-based gin offers up a delightful pack of floral and citrus notes. The Bets Are In: “Besides its great backstory, this gin is filled with surprises: violet, fruity and just the right amount of astringency to bring it all together. The bright Carter Raff is owner and juniper jumps out in the Martini: very classic.”—Juyoung Master Distiller for Bummer & Kang, The Linq Lazarus Gin. “This craft gin has so much character: citrus and flower power. The simple whisper of vermouth doesn’t hide its attributes.”—Ricardo Murcia, The Bellagio CLASSIC MARTINI ♦ 2¼ oz. Bummer & Lazarus Gin ♦ ¾ oz. Dolin Dry Vermouth ♦ Twist of lemon peel ♦ Mix with one piece of ice. SWEDISH LUXURY: ABSOLUT ELYX Named after the Swedish word for “luxury,” ELYX is indeed the sophisticated side of ABSOLUT’s expressive vodka portfolio. Produced in small quantities in Sweden, this copper column still– distilled spirit is made from single-estate wheat, sourced from one farm. “Our silky textured vodka is a result of the single estate wheat, the truly handcrafted production and the increase usage of copper during the distillation process,” says Kristen Schaefer, ABSOLUT ELYX Brand Ambassador. The Bets Are In: “This hand-crafted vodka is a significant advancement for the category. It possesses amazing character and offers up a smooth mouthfeel with perfect balance. Its delicate balance with a wine-based aperitif like Lillet showcases the spirit’s mixability, but I can also still taste the foundation of wheat in the vodka.” Kristen Schaefer is a Brand —Cody Fredrickson, Paris Las Vegas Ambassador for ABSOLUT ELYX. “This vodka does have a luxurious quality with subtle notes of creamy wheat and a mineral stone-vanilla toast and licorice middle. The finish is exceptionally long. Kristen’s drink lightens up the palate, taking a medium-bodied vodka into a lovely, delicate dimension with floral charm.” —Meridith May, THE TASTING PANEL THE PERFECT CUT ♠ 1 oz. ABSOLUT ELYX ♠ 1 oz. Lillet Rosé ♠ 3 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6 ♠ Orange swath garnish 116 / the tasting panel / october 2014 TP1014_098-132.indd 116 9/26/14 2:20 PM THE DO-GOOD TEQUILA: KARMA TEQUILA Karma Tequila co-founder and President Gary Eisenberger says it succinctly: “We want to do something great for organizations that assist children with education and health needs” he says, referring to why they named the brand Karma. Giving back to charity is a must-do for Gary and his team, but they also happen to produce an outstanding spirit. “It took three years to formulate the final product, made from Highland agave, with trimmed heads and tails, proprietary yeast and a blend of double and triple-distilled tequila from a copper/stainless -steel pot still.” The resulting liquid from the 11¾ months aged Karma Reposado aged in American oak bourbon barrels, which we tasted at the event, is clean and round, with notes of cedar and clay, brown sugared agave and oatmeal. INSTANT KARMA! ♥ 1½ oz. Karma Tequila Reposado ♥ ½ oz. Del Maguey Mezcal VIDA ♥ 1½ oz. fresh-squeezed and strained lemon juice ♥ ¾ oz. Karma Organic Agave The Bets Are In: “The oak and agave perform a nice duet. I get some chocolate and clay-anisette notes off the tequila. The drink brings in the complexity of a smoky layer and a citrus wake-up; the grapefruit jumps out with the sage. This hits all the right spots. ” —Tim Weigel, Hakkasan “Karma Reposado is a very well balanced tequila with forward fresh agave notes. I like the cooked piña quality and the slight smoke. I love it!! Max’s drink was refreshing with a perfect amount of spice coming out of the tequila.”—Josh Monisavis, NOBU Hard Rock Instant Karma! is the drink from Las Vegas mixologist Max Solano. Nectar, infused with sage and grapefruit ♥ 3 dashes grapefruit bitters ♥ Sage leaf and grapefruit peel garnish A HERO’S TRIBUTE: DON Q GRAN AÑEJO RUM Since 1865, six generations of the Serrallés family have created fine rums, and today, sixth-generation family member and environmental scientist Roberto Serrallés is the man behind Don Q. Don Q Gran Añejo is a blend of 6- to 12-year-old rum aged in American white oak barrels and Solera rums aged up to 20 years in Sherry casks, creating a balance between sweet and dry. It is smooth, elegant, well-structured and has all the nuances of a fine bourbon or Scotch. The Puerto Rico-based rum was a knockout in The Novel Experience, named in homage to Don Quixote, the inspiration behind the brand’s name. Southern Wine & Spirits Master Mixologist and Spirits Educator J. R. Starkus created The Novel Experience cocktail, a nod to Don Quixote, the inspiration behind the name of Don Q rum. The Bets Are In: “The rum itself is high-end, Cognac-like: notes of antique wood, cherries, rich chocolate, toffee and orange peel. The drink is appealing to eye and palate. It is not a shy drink—but neither is the rum.”—Mariena Mercer, The Cosmopolitan “The aromas and flavors of the rum are luxurious and the stylized ingredients bring a balanced, herbal component that makes the drink delicious but also beachready.” —Ricardo Murcia, The Bellagio and Raul Faria, Gordon Ramsey Pub THE NOVEL EXPERIENCE ♣ 1½ oz. Don Q Gran Añejo ♣ ½ oz. Menta Fernet Vittone ♣ ½ oz. xtabentún (Mexican anise liqueur) ♣ ¾ oz. fresh lime juice ♣ Red apple, fresh mint, paper straw and paper umbrella garnish october 2014 / the tasting panel / 117 TP1014_098-132.indd 117 9/26/14 2:20 PM SPEED TASTING REPORT HIGH CLASS IN GLASS: ZYR VODKA ZYR Vodka’s new parent company, Davos Brands, is an all-encompassing beverage importer and marketing company for luxury wine and spirits brands. So this Russian vodka, made from a proprietary blend winter wheat and rye—and nine-times filtered, five-times distilled and three- times tasted before bottling—fits that pristine, prestigious image. “The water itself is tasted for texture and against previous batches for consistency,” says Davos Brands Southwest Market Manager Ron Newman. “No sugar, glycerin or spices added. ZYR is one of those best-inclass brands that fits right in our portfolio.” Hakkasan Las Vegas Mixologist Emilio Tiburcio and TY KU/Davos Brands’ Ron Newman. The Bets Are In: “ZYR is a big-bodied, buxom vodka with sweet citrus, powdered milk and cocoa hints; round, with no edge at all. Emilio’s cocktail brought out the citrustangerine tang, lemon oils and vanilla extract. As he himself said, ‘It makes magic in your mouth.’” —Meridith May, THE TASTING PANEL “As delicate as the vodka is on the palate, it has weight and a creaminess with a sweet finish. The hand-crafted perfume was enticing and added to the subtle aromas from the vodka.”—Dave Ponte, NOBU Caesars Palace THE PERFECT 100 ♦ 2½–3 oz. ZYR Vodka ♦ 3 spritzes of homemade perfume (13 drops tangerine oil, seven drops lemon oil, four drops fresh vanilla extract and 1 oz. ZYR Vodka) ♦ Tangerine and lemon garnish AGE-WORTHY: AZUÑIA TEQUILA — BLACK If Azuñia Añejo is one of the most sippable ultra-premium tequilas (aged in excess of the required 12 months for añejos), Azuñia Black is even more luxe going down. This two-year-aged, special edition añejo speaks of honeyed-oak and dark chocolate biscuit. It is aged first in used Jack Daniel’s barrels and six months in an “undisclosed” finishing barrel. Azuñia Black is made from organic, estate-grown 100% blue Weber agave from the Lowlands of Jalisco. Kailee Gielgens is Arizona and Las Vegas Sales Manager for Azuñia Tequila. The Bets Are In: “Caramel and cinnamon flow along the palate, with a salty finish. Root beer and mint play with banana and grassy notes for this special edition tequila. The cocktail is creamy and well-balanced with a light citrus finish and sweet floral nose.”—Juyoung Kang, The Linq “This tequila is intensely aromatic: chocolate, caramel, fenugreek seed and banana play on the nose and mouth. And the cocktail: delicious. The use of banana was a great play off the tequila’s already tropical character and a wonderful showcase for a smooth and spicy extra añejo.”—Cody Fredrickson, Paris Las Vegas BLACK DAHLIA ♠ 1½ oz. Azuñia Black 2 Year Old Añejo Tequila ♠ 1 oz. Dolin Dry Vermouth ♠ ¾ oz. banana syrup ♠ ¾ oz. lemon juice ♠ ¾ oz. egg white ♠ Flower garnish 118 / the tasting panel / october 2014 TP1014_098-132.indd 118 9/26/14 2:21 PM HIGH ROLLER IN GIN CITY: BOLS GENEVER Before there was gin, there was genever. The Dutch predecessor of modern-day gin, genever’s base spirit is white-dog whiskey or “malt wine.” Today, Bols offers two genevers: Bols Genever and Bols Genever Barrel Aged. Both are still made according to the original 1820 Lucas Bols recipe. The malty flavor comes from using over 50 percent malt wine, which is made from longfermented rye, corn and wheat, triple-distilled in copper pot stills. This malt wine is then blended with a carefully selected distillate of botanicals and brought to 42% ABV. The Bets Are In: “The malty tones of Bols Genever remind me of Scotch, but also yeasty (wet clay), musk and redolent of baking bread—very Old World. The cocktail in all its tiki glory is refreshing with high-toned honey tones. The fresh mint tickles the nose and all the ingredients play well Anthony Pullen is National Brand with the genever, bringing out its herbal components.”—Mariena Mercer, The Cosmopolitan Ambassador for Bols Genever. “There are so many layers of complex flavors in Bols Genever, from pine nuts to citrus peel to yeast. And coconut. As a whisky drinker, I can confess that this drink satisfies my taste—it’s refreshing and has that malty component with a touch of the tropical.”—Josh Monisavis, NOBU Hard Rock DUTCH GROG ♥ 1½ oz. oz. Bols Genever ♥ 1 oz. Bols Crème de Banana Liqueur ♥ ¾ oz. lime juice ♥ ¾ oz. grapefruit juice ♥ 4 dashes Jamaican Bitters #2 ♥ 2 oz. soda water EARNING ITS STRIPES: WHITE TIGER VODKA Just anointed with a 92-point score from THE TASTING PANEL, this new cat is on the prowl. Water from SikhoteAlin mountain in the Amur River basin—one of the ten biggest waterways in the world—remains ecologically clean to this day and provides the liquid base for this Russian vodka. White Tiger is made from 50 percent winter wheat and 50 percent rye, twice-distilled and dedicated to the Amur tigers: A portion of funds from consumer sales go to support these animals in their Russian forest habitat. White Tiger Brand Owner Ilia Lerner with Mixologist Daniel “Double-D” DeAnda-Fast. The Bets Are In: “An unctuous vodka with a massive heart, but it’s still balanced and tastes of grass, white tea, white pepper and sweet wheat bread. The cocktail purrs when you mix in the compote.”—Raul Faria, Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill “It’s got a good story behind it and a great cause in helping the animals in the Russian forest. The vodka is creamy, wheaty and quite clean with a meaty mouthfeel and a spicy finish. The ingredients in the drink do not camouflage the unique profile of the vodka, but do add a sweetness that makes it refreshing.”—Jeff Evans, N9NE Steakhouse at The Palms SIBERIAN SNOW CAT ♣ 2 oz. White Tiger Vodka ♣ ¾ oz. Lillet Blanc ♣ ¾ oz. lemon juice ♣ ½ oz. white tea and ginger syrup ♣ Lace glass with blackberry and black peppercorn compote ♣ Candied ginger garnish october 2014 / the tasting panel / 119 TP1014_098-132.indd 119 9/26/14 2:21 PM