Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
Transcription
Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
ay rs'D e i l p up at S ersey s u J t Mee in New , 2016 1 10 -1 y a M 5 English/German Contents: Editorial 7 Cover Stories Focus Sun: Interview with Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, 3 Interview with Dr. Jochen Klock, 8 President & CEO Sytheon Ltd. Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM Names & News16 Technical Articles Expanded Protection Wavelength18 Testing Breakthrough for Enhanced Evaluation of Sunscreen Agents By Artyom Duev and Olga Dueva-Koganov The Emerging New Face 22 of the Beauty and Health Category By Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D. Targeted Delivery of Natural Skin Components28 to Restore Barrier Integrity: Achieving Anti-Aging Health Benefits By Dr. Sam Shefer News & Talk Dorota Niemczycka, Marketing Communications Manager, Lipotec 32 introduces their new product development from Ayurveda tradition Trends & Markets European suncare trends 34 By Imogen Matthews Regulation & Legislation Navigating Sunscreens Regulations 36 By Karen Yarussi-King ISO 16128 – truths and myths 38 A statement on what new ISO rules for natural and organic cosmetics are – and what not By BDIH In-Cosmetics Paris – A Review By Raluca Popescu-Erdmann 40 on behalf of EURO COSMETICS New Ingredients45 Formulations48 New Products49 Packaging & Machines50 Events 52 CosmeticBusiness 2016 52 SUPPLIERS‘ DAY EDUCATION SESSION 53 65 Years BDiH 54 Advertiser’s Index55 Market-Place56 Impressum55 May 2016 24. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 24 7 Editorial Cover Stories 3 Fokus Sonne 3 Interview mit Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, EURO Präsident & CEO Sytheon Ltd. 8 Interview mit Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM COSMETICS Volume Cover Stories – Seite 3, 8 16Namen & Nachrichten 18Fachbeiträge 18 Expanded Protection Wavelength 22 28 · No. 24 · May 2016 Namen und Nachrichten – Seite 16 Testing Breakthroughfor Enhanced Evaluation of Sunscreen Agents Von Artyom Duev and Olga Dueva-Koganov The Emerging New Face of the Beauty and Health Category Von Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D. Targeted Delivery of Natural Skin Components to Restore Barrier Integrity: Achieving Anti-Aging Health Benefits Fachbeiträge – Seite 18 Neue Inhaltsstoffe – Seite 45 Von Dr. Sam Shefer 32 News & Talk Dorota Niemczycka, Marketing Communications Manager, Lipotec präsentiert ihre neue Produktentwicklung aus der ajurvedischen Tradition Neue Produkte – Seite 49 News & Talk – Seite 32 34 Trends & Markets European suncare trends Von Imogen Matthews 36 Regulation & Legislation 36 Navigating Sunscreens Regulations Von Karen Yarussi-King ISO 16128 – truths and myths A statement on what new ISO rules for natural 38 Verpackung & Maschinen – Seite 50 and organic cosmetics are – and what not By BDIH 40 In-Cosmetics Paris – A Review Von Raluca Popescu-Erdmann im Auftrag von EURO COSMETICS 45 48 49 50 52 Neue Inhaltsstoffe Formulierungen Neue Produkte Verpackung & Maschinen Veranstaltungen 52CosmeticBusiness 2016 53SUPPLIERS‘ DAY EDUCATION SESSION 5465 Jahre BDiH 55 Advertiser’s Index 56 Marktplatz 55 Impressum Luminia Granatum PRCF Plasma Rich in Cell Factors Effektive, natürliche Whitening-Strategie mit dreifachem Ansatz auf Basis der Stammzelltechnologie: • • • Brightening Perfector Texture & Tone Evener Radiance Enhancer PRCFTM ist das innovative und proprietäre Konzept der MOLECULAR SYNERGY, die Kraft der Pflanzen wirklich zu nutzen. weitere Informationen, Muster & Rahmenrezepturen unter: info@mani-gmbh.com EDITORIAL Dear Readers, Liebe Leserinnen und Leser, Summer – sun – fun? Sommer – Sonne – Freude ? We spoke with two experts about this issue’s topic: sun. Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM, tells us about the emulsifier AMPHISOL® K, newly-developed by DSM and suitable for all types of sun and skin care formulations. It can also be used for a broad spectrum of other products including body lotions and make-up products. Dr. Klock sees a significant trend in sun care oils that leave a shimmer effect on the skin; these are especially favored in Europe and in Latin America. More on page 8. Zum Fokus Thema Sonne haben wir zwei Experten befragt. Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM, erzählt uns über den von DSM neu entwickelten Emulgator AMPHISOL® K, der für alle Arten von Sonnen- und Hautpflege Formulierungen geeignet ist und der darüber hinaus für eine breite Produktpalette wie Körperlotionen oder auch Make-upProdukte verwendet werden kann. Einen bedeutenden Trend in der Sonnenpflege sieht Dr. Klock in Sonnenschutzölen, die einen Schimmer Effekt auf der Haut hinterlassen, besonders beliebt in Europa und Lateinamerika. Mehr dazu auf Seite 8. Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, President and CEO of Sytheon Ltd. tells us what's new in sun protection research and reveals new solution approaches (page 3). Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, Präsident und CEO von Sytheon Ltd. erzählt uns Neues aus der Sonnenschutz Forschung und deckt neue Lösungsansätze auf (Seite 3). The need for multi-functional products in skin care is great; in particular, the demand for UV protection in skin care and makeup products is increasing. Imogen Matthews provides us with the latest data and explains what kind of progress there has been in the development of innovative sun care products (page. 34). Das Bedürfnis nach multifunktionalen Produkten in der Hautpflege ist groß, besonders die Nachfrage nach UV-Schutz in Hauptpflege- und Make-up Produkten steigt. Imogen Matthews gibt uns dazu die neuesten Daten und welche Fortschritte es in der Entwicklung innovativer Sonnenpflegeprodukte gibt (Seite 34). Karen Yarussi-King tells us more about the sun screens regulation and their classification between the different markets around the world (page 36) Mehr zu den Sonnenschutz Regulierungen erzählt uns Karen Yarussi-King, Seite 36, und erklärt die unterschiedlichen Einstufungen auf dem weltweiten Markt und deren Auswirkungen. Now that we are back from in-cosmetics in Paris with many new impressions, inspirations, and innovations, we have compiled everything you need to know in this issue. Read our report on page 40. Wieder zurück aus Paris von der in-cosmetics mit vielen neuen Eindrücken, Inspirationen und Innovationen haben wir für Sie alles Wissenswerte zusammengetragen. Unseren Nachbericht dazu können Sie auf Seite 40 nachlesen. In our next issue we will present the results of the survey about current topics that we conducted among the exhibitors at in-cosmetics in Paris. In unserer nächsten Ausgabe werden wir Ihnen dann die Ergebnisse unserer Umfrage, die wir auf der in-cosmetics in Paris mit den Ausstellern zu aktuellen Themen geführt haben, präsentieren. We wish you great pleasure reading this issue. Wir wünschen nun viel Freude beim Lesen dieser Ausgabe. Your EURO COSMETICS team Ihr EURO COSMETICS Team 5-2016 7 EURO COSMETICS NAMES & NEWS wide, with the exception of Korea. BioSpectrum is renowned for its experience in researching and developing natural raw materials that can be used in skin and hair care products. The company has strong scientific capabilities in bioassay, efficacy testing and claim substantiation,which allows the design and development of high-quality actives ingredients for the cosmetics industry. All of the ingredients are based on state-of-the-art technology and have been widely tested and developed to meet the demands and trends of the cosmetics industry. n The project team working together for the strategic partnership (from left to right): Stephan Lynen, Head of Regional Business Line Asia BU ICS; Dr. Deok-Hoon Park, CEO of BioSpectrum; Christian Vang, Head of Clariant BU ICS; Dr. Younghyun Kim, Head of Sales and Marketing of BioSpectrum; Guido Appl, Head of Sales & Application Personal Care and Industrial & Home Care Asia-Pacific Region. (Photo: Clariant) Seppic and Total Partnership l l Bio-sourced emollients New development opportunities for cosmetics The increasingly high expectations of cosmetic formulation chemists and consumers for naturality, ingredient safety and the sensorial feel of products are becoming major development focuses in cosmetic ingredients. To meet these expectations, Seppic and Total Fluides combine their applied and commercial expertise, respectively in cosmetic markets and development and production of highly purified molecules. Total Fluides, a recognized international producer and marketer of high-purity fluid alkanes, and Seppic, a designer of cosmetic specialty ingredients, signed an agreement on April 11, 2016 for emollient development and marketing. Their cooperation will lead to the launch of a complete range of high-purity alkane emollients including a brand new range of bio-sourced, biodegradable emollients that fully responds to the strong demands of today's cosmetics market. n 5-2016 Kevin Gallagher Wins in-cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award Kevin Gallagher, Croda International PLC’s recently retired president of Global Personal Care and Actives was announced as the winner of the “Lifetime Achievement Award” at this year’s in-cosmetics exhibition in Paris, France. The Lifetime Achievement Award recognises the outstanding professional accomplishments of individuals who have made a significant impact on the cosmetic and personal care industry and is handed out only once every three years. The Award attracted entries from all corners of the globe and Kevin was shortlisted by a panel of industry leaders for a public vote. He was revealed as the winner of this coveted award at a ceremony at the Paris Exhibition, Porte de Versailles on 13 April 2016 amongst tough competition from the other two finalists – R. Randall Wickett of R. Randall Wickett Consulting and Patrice Bellon, President of the French Society of Cosmetic Chemists, both of whom are highly regarded within the industry. 14 EURO COSMETICS Kevin Gallagher’s illustrious career with Croda spanned almost four decades and he left a lasting legacy of innovation within Croda’s business and the industry itself, on his retirement in January 2016. He began his career with Croda as an applications chemist in 1978 and held positions in R&D, QA, Sales and Marketing before moving into general management in 1989. He became the first President of Croda’s Global Personal Care and Actives when the group structure was changed in 2014. Speaking of his award, Kevin Gallagher said “winning the Lifetime Achievement Award is a wonderful accolade that recognises true innovation and commitment to the industry. I am proud of my career with Croda and for having been an important part of the global leadership team that created the most successful personal care ingredients”. n We want to market a new sunscreen applies clear when wet and is sprayable , with no sticky feeling . It must be stable , highly water−resistant and use mineral filters . It should also be fragrance− free , while helping even skin tone . that Today’s customers want more—more functionality, more protection and more natural ingredients. That’s where Hallstar comes in. Our collaborative approach and specialty chemistry expertise help you stay ahead of the trends, work within tight requirements and manage global regulations. Need a competitive edge? Contact Hallstar about a custom formulated solution today. www.hallstar.com/ec NEW INGREDIENTS The Dow Chemical Company (NYSE:DOW), shared its latest personal care technologies and concepts at in-cosmetics in Paris Optical blurring with great feel: EcoSmooth™ OptiTouch More than six out of 10 consumers (51 percent male, 72 percent female) say they worry about fine lines and wrinkles. At the same time they consider the sensorial characteristics as the third most influential factor when choosing a skin care product (Source: Datamonitor, December 2013). Dow’s new multifunctional sensory additive EcoSmooth™ OptiTouch helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin imperfections while offer- ing an additional velvety touch. It thus combines highly desirable optical and sensorial benefits. As a monodispersed polyolefin with a high refractive index it enables an excellent blurring and mattifying effect without whiteness. The innovative technology is very efficient at levels as low as three percent active and can be added to the water phase of a formulation. Possible product applications range from facial care to foundations. Dow introduced further debut seven creative hero product concepts and 11 formulations for applications in sun care, facial care, skin care, cleansing, and hair care, all of which are aligned with the latest market trends and needs. These novel concepts and formulations combine prod- uct innovations and existing technologies from Dow in ingenious ways to create amazing textures and sensorial benefits that are capable of lifting the consumer experience to new heights. www.dow.com n AkzoNobel launched new humectant and enhanced styling product at In-Cosmetics Paris AkzoNobel’s latest innovative ingredient for personal care applications provides formulators with the ability to meet the growing consumer demand for longlasting and high-performance skin care products. ElfaMoist AC humectant (pro- www.etol.de Ihre Produkte in sicheren Händen Lohnherstellung für Arzneimittel – Medizinprodukte – Kosmetika > Lohnherstellung (auch ATEX-Explosionsschutz) von flüssigen und halbfesten Produkten > Lohnabfüllung, Konfektionierung (auch ATEX-Explosionsschutz) Tuben, Flaschen, Kanister Spezialist für Oral-Care Produkte Halle 3 Stand D 22 > Fertigung und Dokumentation nach GMP Herstellungserlaubnis gemäß § 13 AMG. Zertifiziert nach DIN EN ISO 9001 und DIN EN ISO 13485 > Rezepturentwicklung > Zulassung von Medizinprodukten etol Gesundheitspflege- und Pharmaprodukte GmbH • Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 3 • D – 77704 Oberkirch T. +49 7802 9265-0 • www.etol.de • info@etol-oberkirch.de etol-Pharma_Cosmetic_210x148_RZ.indd 1 5-2016 45 EURO COSMETICS 26.01.16 14:58 NEW INGREDIENTS Europe and Asia, looking to develop global chassis hair spray systems.” www.akzonobel.com/personalcare n Sederma unveils a new approach to pollution defence posed INCI Name: N-Acetyl DGA) is an effective active that easily penetrates inside the skin (stratum corneum), delivers and increases hydration, and keeps skin moisturized for 30 hours, even after a single application. Equally important, ElfaMoist AC humectant performs exceptionally without showing disruption to the skin barrier, making it safe and gentle on skin. ElfaMoist AC humectant was scientifically designed to deliver instant and long-lasting moisturization without the negative sensory impact of other humectants. “AMPHOMER EDGE polymer (INCI Name: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer) provides the excellent stiffness and high humidity resistance of our current AMPHOMER polymer but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and unsurpassed style retention,” said Melissa Vitale, AkzoNobel Global Marketing Manager, Hair Styling. Designed for high alcohol aerosol and non-aerosol sprays, the polymer keeps volume in place for over 24 hours. It also can be used in aqueous styling gels, mousses, creams and waxes, where strong, long-lasting hold is desired. “In addition,” said Vitale, “AMPHOMER EDGE polymer is compatible in high levels of hydrocarbon and/or dimethyl ether systems, which makes it a great selection for formulators, particularly in With their new ingredient Citystem™, Sederma is expanding the conversation around the adverse effects of pollution on skin. The new active ingredient is designed to fight against visible and invisible pollution damage to the skin. This natural active ingredient provides a new approach to pollution’s effects on skin, with proven results including: –Protection of skin cells from the penetration of pollutants, –Removal and neutralisation of toxic oxidant species, – Strengthening of the skin barrier, –Repair of cell metabolism. Futhermore, Citystem™ is proven to provide instant and long term cosmetic benefits through consumer and clinical studies. After four weeks, skin grain is refined, the complexion looks radiant and purified and skin feels soft and smooth. An instant overall improvement of skin appearance was also observed in study with 100 volunteers after only one application of a cosmetic containing Citystem™ for 10-15 minutes. Almost 80% of them found their skin had long-lasting moisturisation and a healthy glow, while 84% of them felt their skin was still refreshed the next morning. Additionally, to further the fight against pollution, Citystem™ is developed from Sederma’s eco-designed HTN™ plant cell culture process. It also complies with the Chinese regulation for cosmetic ingredients. www.sederma.com n Univar Presented New “Savage Glamour” at in-cosmetics in Paris 2016 Citystem T0 Univar has unveiled an edgy mix of the latest personal care prototypes that spark creativity and help create a fierce and high-fashion look. The Savage Glamour collection features 15 innovative skin care, sun care, hair care, body care, and makeup formulations designed using Univar’s broad portfolio of specialty ingredients from leading producers, including Dow Corning, Dow Personal Care, Kao, and Naturex. Citystem T4 weeks 5-2016 46 EURO COSMETICS Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerland, Phone + 41 (0)62 836 17 31 RoyalEpigen P5 Rejuvenation through epigenetic science Inspired by epigenetic science, RoyalEpigen P5 has been designed to delay the aging of skin. Both lifestyles and environmental factors have an impact on the epigenome of skin cells and thus influence their vitality. This revolutionary active is based on a biologically active peptide that mimics the function of royalactin. Recently, this protein has been discovered in Royal Jelly as being responsible for the epigenetic programming of the queen bees in hives. The peptide is formulated in a soft sphere carrier system to ensure bioavailability and the best skin regeneration results. • Accelerates epidermal regeneration for smoother skin • Activates the cellular cleaning process • Reveals a more evenly toned skin RoyalEpigen P5 successfully stimulates the proteasomal activity to reduce the accumulation of aged proteins in skin cells and activates epidermal cell renewal for a refined and uniform skin texture. www.mibellebiochemistry.com PACKAGING & MACHINES The packaging with that extra special something Packaging with viewing windows builds trust as it offers the customer a view of the contents. Whether it’s sausages, pet food, cosmetics, or liquor, marketing managers across industries are looking for packaging concepts that give the customer the option to see the product without opening the package. The new Optima website adapts automatically to mobile devices such as smartphones and tablets. Digitalization at OPTIMA: New Website Online Since April 25th, Optima from Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, has been representing itself at www.optima-packaging. com with an updated design and through innovative technology. Glimpsing into the Extensive Machine Portfolio for the first Time The featured machine solutions are the central aspect of the new Optima website. A specially designed and programmed product database is working in the background for this very purpose. The users can immerse themselves in Optima's machine portfolio using different categories and customized filters. In doing do, the results are updated on-the-fly and with tremendous speed. There are additional details for each machine as well as the option to contact Optima. The product database also works as a technical basis for promoting media-neutral data storage in the future. As a result, additional marketing and sales activities will be implemented faster and with sustainability. redesign. The goal of implementing a flat hierarchy with no more than three levels has been achieved. This ensures that website users are able to access information conveniently. The new and easy to locate search function also provides a quick and easy alternative. Worldwide Launch in Multiple Steps The company's new website had initially been revised for its four main branches of business: Pharma, Consumer, Nonwovens and Life Science. The international branches and subsidiaries will also appear in the new, state-of-the-art look by the end of the year. Discover Optima's new digital world: www.optima-packaging.com n But there’s more: Visually attractive effects due to the packaging design underscore the high quality of the products and pique the curiosity of the shopper. With the FoilPatch packaging, the STI Group has created an innovation in folding box design that offers more than just a simple viewing window. FoilPatch offers new possibilities in design and finishing that cleverly combine the folding box and viewing window. The print image of the folding box can be carried precisely onto the foil, showcasing the contents in an eye-catching manner. Design from one cast The packaging shape stands out too, because, regardless of the packaging design, the viewing window of the Foilpatch can extend over one, two or three sides of the packaging and can also have various contours. Concave, convex or diamondshaped sides convey elegance, catch the eye and give stopping power to the packaging on the shelf or the display. www.sti-group.com User-friendliness and Easy Navigation Special attention was given to the user interface and content structure during the Insights of a special kind allows the new carton series of STI Group. 10-2015 51 EURO COSMETICS n DISCOVER THE WORLD OF BEAUTY Log in · Discover · Learn more Brand new international articles and much more Print & Online Ask for a sample copy h unic us at Visit ess in M Busin 1, 2015 etic -1 Cosm June 10 oth D 18 Bo 3, Hall 6 7/8 English/German 1955 2015 OF PASSION English/German Contents: 5 Editorial 5 Names & News 6 Names & News 6 Interview A conversation with Nilesh Shah, 8 Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Institutional and Personal Care Solutions, about new effective anti-aging technologies One ingredient that solves all the eye contour concerns Technical Articles 13 Use of Plant and Human Stem Cell Extracts in Cosmeceutical Anti-Aging Products and Vibrant Hair Styles By Yuliya Berezkin and Dr. Yash Kamath Specialty Silicones Provide Long-Lasting 26 Color Cosmetics: Their Anti-Aging Efficacy, L I N K T O I N N O V A T I O N S I N C E 1 9 5 5 Rossow - Headquarters, FRANCE - Tel: +33 (0)1 41 21 87 87 - contact@rossow.fr - www.rossow.fr Rossow USA - New Jersey, USA - Toll free: +1 (855) 776-7769 - contact@rossow-usa.com - www.rossow-usa.com 33 Issues, Opportunities and Innovation By Jeannette Graf, M.D. Trends & Markets Trends in ethnic cosmetics: 34 36 targeting the needs of a growth demographic By Imogen Matthews 35 New Ingredients New Products By Sara Mason New Ingredients 38 New Products 40 Formulations 30 Color and Unique Sensory Experience By Marc Eeman et al. 30 By Imogen Matthews Sara Speaks – The Promise of Stem Cells for Skin & Hair Rejuvenation 22 Film Formers for Creating Long Lasting European Business Development Manager Cosmetics, Brenntag Holding GmbH, about INNOVI’s new GPS-S (Guiding Performance System - Surface) Supported by 60 years of experience, ŽƵƌĐŽŵƉĂŶLJ͛ƐƌŝĐŚŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞĂŶĚƉƌŽƐƉĞĐƟǀĞǀŝƐŝŽŶĐĂŶƉƌŽǀŝĚĞLJŽƵǁŝƚŚ the resources to formulate your future. 16 By Howard Epstein, Ph. D. – Part 2 Unique Multifunctional Polyurethane By Jeannette Jacknin, MD Trends & Markets Skin ageing: the evolution of the anti-ageing trend The Significance of Homeostasis on Skin Aging 19 22 By Shyam Gupta, PhD News & Talk A conversation with Dr. Francois Bouton, 11 Cosmetics Application Technology, Worlée Cosmetics By Alicia Gimenez et al. Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing: A Bird's Eye View A conversation with Director of Development/ A cosmetic approach against cellular ageing processes By Angela Kleiner EXPERIENCE AT YOUR SERVICE Interview Florian Preuße, Dipl. Ing. (FH), 10 Senior Director of Customer Marketing, MeadWestvaco (MWV) Technical Articles When skin is getting on in years Specia Contents: Editorial A conversation with Tracy Doherty, 20 Volume No. RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015 41 Packaging & Machines 43 Events Beyond Beauty Paris Cosmetics Packaging 46 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 37 39 Formulations 42 Packaging & Machines 44 Events CosmeticBusiness in Munich in-cosmetics Brazil in-cosmetics Korea 45 45 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 Event Calendar 51 Event Calendar 51 Impressum 47 Impressum 47 June 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 July/August 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBH Euro Cosmetics P.O.B. 440255 · D-80751 München/Germany Phone: +49 (0) 89 / 36 03 74 27 · Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 32 66 75 53 info@eurocosmetics.de www.eurocosmetics.de BRODATECH l
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