Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
Transcription
Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine
, t u s a ü n c he n t i s i V sM ines 016, s u B et i c - 9, 2 Cosm June 8 oth D18 3 Bo Ha ll 6 English/German Contents: Editorial 5 Cover Story Interview A conversation with Andreas Schindele, 6 CEO FrankenChemie GmbH & Co. KG Names & News10 ERFAHRUNG WirarbeitenmiteinerumfassendenPalettevon PRODUKTE leistungsstarkenQualitäts-Rohstoffen. Über30JahresindwirderzuverlässigeRohstofflieferantder kosmetischen,pharmazeutischenundtechnischenIndustrie. Company Portrait CARECOS Kosmetik GmbH 16 Highest standard of full service for cosmetics Interview A conversation with Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, 24 C N O U Technical Articles A Rejuvenating Effect through26 Intercellular Communication IO D SERVICE Research Director BioMaterials, Ashland Inc. on Emerging Category of Sun Protection Fabrics N IC E A T M N C E IO R T T IF TA By Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Albert Soley, Raquel Delgado The skin microbiome: Balancing the 30 ecosystem for normal skin function QUALITY ASSURANCE I N N OVAT I O N By Justine Cotton Nanomaterials in cosmetic products34 By Dr. Jens Reiber B IC S LA Interview Dr. Patricia K Farris, Clinical Assistant Professor, Tulane University School of Medicine R IS T O R LO TO G A Y SUPPORT about the cutting edge research in Stem Cells for Cosmetics KNOWHOW Wehavebeenthededicatedsupplierofrawmaterialstothe cosmetics,pharmaceuticalandtechnicalindustriesassociated withthesefor30years. PRODUCTS 39 Weworkwithacomprehensiverangeofhigh-performance qualityrawmaterials. New Ingredients40 Packaging & Machines41 In-Cosmetics Paris – Survey Results By Alster Consulting 43 on behalf of EURO COSMETICS Events Postreport from the 34th Winter-Seminar 47 in Davos Advertiser’s Index51 Market-Place52 Impressum51 FrankenChemie GmbH & Co. KG · D-90530 Wendelstein · Richtweg 81 · Tel. +49 (0) 9129 2818-0 · info@frankenchemie.de · www.frankenchemie.de Euro Cosmetics Anzeige Titel 2016.indd 1 18.05.16 09:48 June 2016 24. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 24 5 Editorial 6 Cover Story Interview EURO COSMETICS Ein Gespräch mit Andreas Schindele, Geschäftsführer der FrankenChemie GmbH & Co. KG · Volume No. 24 · June 2016 Cover Story– Seite 6 Namen und Nachrichten – Seite 10 10Namen & Nachrichten 16 Firmenporträt CARECOS Kosmetik GmbH Kosmetischer Full-Service auf höchstem Niveau 24 Interview Firmenporträt – Seite 16 Ein Gespräch mit Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, Research Director BioMaterials, Ashland Inc. Fachbeiträge – Seite 26 on Emerging Category of Sun Protection Fabrics 26 Fachbeiträge 26 A Rejuvenating Effect through Intercellular Communication von Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Interview – Seite 41 Albert Soley, Raquel Delgado Neue Inhaltsstoffe – Seite 41 30 The skin microbiome: Balancing the ecosystem for normal skin function Von Justine Cotton 34 Nanomaterialien in kosmetischen Mitteln Von Dr. Jens Reiber 39 Interview Verpackung & Maschinen – Seite 41 Dr. Patricia K Farris, Clinical Assistant Professor, Tulane University School of Medicine über die neueste Forschung in der Stammzellenkosmetik 40 Neue Inhaltsstoffe 41 Verpackung & Maschinen Luminia Granatum PRCF 43 In-Cosmetics Paris – Survey Results Umfrage-Ergebnisse von Alster Consulting Plasma Rich in Cell Factors Effektive, natürliche Whitening-Strategie mit dreifachem Ansatz auf Basis der Stammzelltechnologie: im Auftrag von EURO COSMETICS • • • 47 Veranstaltungen 34. Swiss SCC Winterseminar in Davos Brightening Perfector Texture & Tone Evener Radiance Enhancer PRCFTM ist das innovative und proprietäre Konzept der MOLECULAR SYNERGY, die Kraft der Pflanzen wirklich zu nutzen. 51 Advertiser’s Index weitere Informationen, Muster & Rahmenrezepturen unter: info@mani-gmbh.com 52 Marktplatz 51 Impressum 6-2016 3 EURO COSMETICS EDITORIAL Dear Readers, Liebe Leserinnen und Leser, Anti-Aging – wrinkle reducers – miracle cure? Anti-Aging – Faltenglätter – Wundermittel? STEM CELLS are supposed to act as a stimulant for producing new skin cells. Numerous cosmetic products advertise that they contain extracts from plant stem cells as an ingredient for making skin look younger. What do these products do and what are the latest insights of stem cell research? We spoke with Dr. Patricia Farris, Dermatologist and Clinical Assistant Professor at the Tulane University School of Medicine, about this latest development in stem cell research (interview start on page 39). STAMMZELLEN sollen anregend wirken, um neue Hautzellen zu produzieren. Zahlreiche Kosmetikprodukte werben mit Extrakten aus pflanzlichen Stammzellen als Inhaltsstoff zur Verjüngung der Haut. Was leisten diese Produkte und was sind die neuesten Erkenntnisse der Stammzellenforschung? Wir haben mit Dr. Patricia Farris, Hautärztin und Clinical Assistant Proffessor der Tulane University School of Medicine, über die neueste Entwicklung in der Stammzellenforschung gesprochen (Interview ab Seite 39). We also spoke to Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, Director of Research for BioMaterials at Ashland Inc., about another very hot topic: She was able to tell the Euro Cosmetics team about the new types of sunscreen ingredients (interview on page 24). Zu einem weiteren hoch aktuellen Thema stand uns Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, Direktor Forschung BioMaterialien bei Ashland Inc., zur Verfügung: Sie konnte das Team der Euro Cosmetics über die neue Art von Sonnenschutzstoffen befragen (Interview Seite 24). In addition, we present to our readers three excellent specialized articles about our topical focal points (starting on page 26); we would especially like to point out the one by Justine Cotton, Marketing Manager Skin Care at Ashland France, entitled “The skin microbiome: Balancing the ecosystem for normal skin function“ (page 30). Darüber hinaus haben wir für Sie, liebe Leserinnen und Leser, wie gewohnt drei exzellente Fachartikel zu unseren Themenschwerpunkten aufbereitet (ab Seite 26), insbesondere den Fachartikel von Justine Cotton, Marketing Manager Skin Care bei Ashland Frankreich, zum Thema: „The skin microbiome: Balancing the ecosystem for normal skin function“ (Seite 30). As a follow-up to the reports about InCosmetics Paris in our May issue, we are pleased to be able to present the results of our survey about the current trends there; this survey was conducted by Alster Consulting (starting on page 43). Nachfolgend zu unserem Nachbericht über die InCosmetics Paris in unserer Mai-Ausgabe, freuen wir uns schließlich, Ihnen nun die Auswertung unserer Umfrage über die dortigen aktuellen Trends präsentieren zu können, die Alster Consulting in unserem Auftrage durchgeführt hat (ab Seite 43). We are curious to see whether and how these trends will continue at CosmeticBusiness in Munich. We look forward to welcoming you to our booth (Hall 3 Booth D18). Sind wir gespannt, ob und in welcher Art und Weise diese Trends auf der CosmeticBusiness in München ihre Fortsetzung finden. Wir freuen uns, Sie an unserem Stand (Halle 3 Stand D18) begrüßen zu dürfen. Your EURO COSMETICS team Ihr EURO COSMETICS Team 6-2016 5 EURO COSMETICS NAMES & NEWS exclusive UK & Ireland distributor for IOI Oleo GmbH (formerly Cremer Care), Symrise AG, Sabo S.p.A., The Innovation Company and BASF Beauty Creations. Neue Unternehmensspitze KemCare produces and distributes a wide range of actives, surfactants, emulsifiers, oleochemicals, natural oils, synthetic oils and synthetic oil Hendrik Balcke und Dr. Jörg Seubert Hendrik Balcke und Dr. Jörg Seubert bilden die neue Geschäftsführung der Follmann GmbH & Co. KG Von wässrigen Druckfarben über Beschichtungen und Mikroverkapselungen bis hin zu Schmelz- und Dispersionsklebstoffen – Follmann bietet seinen Kunden ein breites Produkt- und Leistungsspektrum. Um für die aktuellen Marktbedingungen optimal gerüstet zu sein, stellt Follmann seine Geschäftsführung mit zwei ausgewiesenen Experten neu auf. Nachdem der bisherige Geschäftsführer Stefan Wernecke aus dem Unternehmen ausgeschieden ist, zeichnen ab sofort Hendrik Balcke und Dr. Jörg Seubert als neue Geschäftsführer der Follmann Sun Chemical Names Jeffrey Shaw Chief Supply Chain, Quality and Business Improvement Officer GmbH & Co. KG verantwortlich. Sun Chemical named Jeffrey Shaw chief supply chain, quality and business improvement officer. Hendrik Balcke, 46, verfügt als Diplom-Ingenieur und technischer Betriebswirt über mehr als 20 Jahre Erfahrung in unterschiedlichen Bereichen der Klebstoffindustrie, die er unter anderem als Key Account Manager und als Product and Sales Manager sammelte. In this role, Shaw will be responsible for optimizing Sun Chemical’s entire supply chain, from the purchase of raw materials and the scheduling of the company’s plants, to managing market-based stock levels and the shipping of finished products to customers worldwide. Dr. Jörg Seubert, 49, ist promovierter Diplom-Chemiker und besitzt eine umfassende Expertise im Bereich Druckfarben. Zuletzt war er als Global Head of Product Management & New Business Development bei Eckart, einem der weltweit führenden Hersteller von Metallic- und Perlglanz-Pigmenten, tätig. n Program supports improved color management across the packaging industry X-Rite Incorporated, a global leader in color science and technology, and its subsidiary Pantone LLC, today announced that it has formed a partnership with Flexolahti Oy, a leading packaging production services company based in Finland, to bring the PANTONE® Industrial sectors in the UK and Ireland. KemCare is a leading distributor of specialty chemicals and fashion products with a focus upon the UK and Ireland market. The company is the 6-2016 Shaw brings over 22 years of supply chain experience and knowledge to the position and most recently worked as the global vice president of integrated supply chain and manufacturing at Sun Chemical since 2010. Shaw replaces Ed Pruitt, who retired after nine years serving as Sun Chemical’s chief procurement officer. n X-Rite and Flexolahti Oy form strategic partnership to expand the PANTONE certified printer program in the nordic region Safic-Alcan UK acquires KemCare Safic-Alcan UK, a major distributor of specialty chemicals and subsidiary of the SaficAlcan Group, announces that it has acquired 100% of KemCare, a leading chemical distributor specialising in the Personal Care, Home Care & derivatives, as well as a specialty personal care portfolio grouped under the KemCare family umbrella. The Company also has a trend advisory and formulation service, KemCreate™, that works closely with its Principal partners and the leading global trend forecasting companies in order to deliver tailormade formulation concepts. n 12 EURO COSMETICS Certified Printer program to the Nordic region. Flexolahti Oy will provide commercial printers and packaging converters with the training, tools and technology printers needed to become a PANTONE Certified Printer. Together, X-Rite and Flexolahti Oy bring a new level of color management and control to the way packaging is produced in the Nordic countri es. n We are developing a new anti−aging cream that feels nourishing and non−greasy and is globally compliant . It must also have high UVA protection and be ready in time for a spring launch . Today’s customers want more—more functionality, more protection and more natural ingredients. That’s where Hallstar comes in. Our collaborative approach and specialty chemistry expertise help you stay ahead of the trends, work within tight requirements and manage global regulations. Need a competitive edge? Contact Hallstar about a custom formulated solution today. www.hallstar.com/ec NEW INGREDIENTS manufacturers create personal care products with the sensory characteristics consumers prefer and expect. AkzoNobel’s following solutions from its portfolio of ingredients for personal care: AkzoNobel – ElfaMoist™ AC humectant AkzoNobel’s newest active for highperforming skin care formulations: ElfaMoist™ AC humectant. AkzoNobel’s latest innovative ingredient for personal care applications enables formulators to meet consumer demand for long-lasting and high-performance skin care products. ElfaMoist AC humectant (proposed INCI Name: N-Acetyl DGA) easily penetrates inside the skin (stratum corneum), delivers and increases hydration, and keeps skin moisturized for 30 hours, even after a single application. Equally important, this effective humectant is safe and gentle on skin, performing exceptionally without disrupting the skin barrier. ElfaMoist AC humectant was scientifically designed to deliver instant and long-lasting moisturization without the negative sensory impact of other humectants. With ElfaMoist AC humectant, formulators can create the highest quality skin care products in leave-on emulsion systems and rinse-off products. Keying on Function AkzoNobel continues to supply advanced ingredients and insights that help •Film-Forming Polymers for Hair Styling: AMPHOMER® polymers provide superior hold and humidity resistance performance in hair spray systems, regardless of VOC level, noted Melissa Vitale, Global Marketing Manager, Hair Styling. “BIOSTYLE® hybrid polymers offer excellent hair volume boosting along with superior solution and gel clarity for styling products with a more natural touch,” she said. “And BALANCE® RCFg polymer, a multifunctional film former and rheology modifier, offers versatile performance in a variety of hair styling systems • Film-forming Polymers for Sun Care: DERMACRYL® 79 and DERMACRYL E polymers give superior water resistance and SPF retention in sunscreens ranging from alcohol-based continuous sprays to emulsion-based sun care products. Offering broadspectrum UV-protection, they impart rinse-off and rub-off resistance, and a light, non-tacky feel on skin. RAHN received Gold LIFTONIN®-XPERT from RAHN received Gold in the category “most innovative raw material – natural products” of the BSB Innovation Prize for Cosmetics and Raw Materials 2016. During in-cosmetics 2016 in Paris, the BSB European Innovation Prizes were awarded for the 14th time by the independent German BSB – Beratungs-and Servicebuero Dr. Riedel. This innovation prize was brought to life with the aim to promote the global dissemination of upto-date knowledge. LIFTONIN®-XPERT is an intelligent collagen booster obtained from the leaf sap of the South African medical plant Bulbine frutescens. Smart skin collagen management is essential, because uncontrolled activation of collagen synthesis can lead to the induction of inflammatory processes and the development of low quality collagen. Thanks to the active substances knipholone and acetylated polymannose, LIFTONIN®-XPERT recalibrates the equilibrium between the decomposition and reconstruction of dermal structures, thus providing the skin with an extra portion of high quality collagen. The active ingredient heralds a new era of natural high quality collagen boosters and paves the way for exciting cosmetic applications: •Conditioning Agents: AkzoNobel conditioning agents enable formulators and manufacturers to strike the right balance of performance and sustainability. Derived from natural resources, they enable formulators to develop luxurious-feeling rinse-out and leavein personal care products. CELQUAT® polymers provide excellent conditioning and they improve deposition of actives from rinse-off systems to hair and skin. ARMOCARE® VGH-70 and ARQUAD® SV-60P quaternary surfactants offer superior wet and dry combing of hair with excellent sensory properties. Anti-ageing / Lifting / Wrinkle filling / Contour remodelling 138 % improvement of wrinkle appearance and 100 % more facial collagen density as compared to placebo. Reduction of stretch marks 53 % reduction of stretch marks volume and 212 % visible improvement of stretch marks appearance as compared to placebo. Nail care Visible repair of cracked cuticles. Tattoo aftercare Immediate soothing effect on tattooed skin. www.akzonobel.com/personalcare www.rahn-group.com 6-2016 40 n EURO COSMETICS n PACKAGING & MACHINES LESSONIA - EASY MASK Soaked masks 100 % French As a Best seller of beauty industry in Asian countries, the soaked mask is becoming a must for all cosmetic brands in Europe. Lyocell: ideal support to include a large amount of serum. lBlack Oak Detox: porous and antipollution support allowing the absorption of impurities. designed for purifying skincare. lBio-Cellulose: very popular material in Asia that behaves like a second skin. lCotton non woven: very soft medium that offers a range of very competitive prices. l plete, WestRock expects to maintain its current annual dividend of $1.50 per share. www.westrock.com n Aptar Beauty + Home Launches New oGS Adoré Lotion Pump with Clip No preservative added Lessonia took advantage of the latest technological innovations in cosmetology and make serums and lotions for impregnation, without addition of preservative. This is a real asset for this type of product, sometimes responsible for redness or itching, due to the large amount of product applied to the face. www.lessonia.com n WestRock Announces Completion of Ingevity Separation To cope with this growing demand, which requires substantial investment and a very specific technology, Lessonia invested in the manufacturing and packaging process of face and eyes soaked masks. Thus, at its location is in France, Lessonia is the only European company to have the expertise to: lDesign products lControl the regulatory Product Information File lManufacture serums or lotions lCustomize packaging lFill up the masks in its own factory A customizable offer Lessonia offers 4 types of support to help meet different market needs: WestRock Company (NYSE:WRK) announced today that it has successfully completed the separation of its specialty chemicals business, Ingevity Corporation, as an independent public company whose shares are listed on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) under the symbol “NGVT”. Under the terms of the separation, WestRock stockholders received one share of Ingevity common stock for every six common shares of WestRock stock held as of the close of business on May 4, 2016. WestRock stockholders received cash in lieu of fractional NGVT shares. NGVT shares will commence trading on the NYSE on May 16, 2016. WestRock will continue to trade on the NYSE under the symbol “WRK.” With the transaction com- 6-2016 41 EURO COSMETICS Aptar Beauty + Home’s new GS Adoré lotion pump with clip is specially designed to guarantee on-shelf differentiation. GS Adoré follows the market trend with a modern design applied to a standard product family. GS Adoré is a new design that uses the Aptar Beauty + Home standard GS lotion pump platform and allows the client to introduce a new aesthetic without requiring a customized solution. GS Adoré has a matte finish and is available with dosages of 1.2 or 2cc, with a lockable feature and a special clip that protects the orifice of the actuator. Different closure neck finishes and styles are available in 24 and 28mm diameter. Key features of GS Adoré by Aptar: Lock up design Special clip that protects the orifice of the actuator lDifferent closure necks and different closure styles available on 24 and 28 mm diameter l Metal shell option available only without clip l l www.aptar.com n PACKAGING & MACHINES Follmann – Frische aus der Kapsel Quelle: Fotolia Follmann stellt auf der „Cosmetic Business“ in München seine einzigartige Technologie für die Verkapselung von Wirkstoffen für Kosmetika vor Aufgrund der großen Auswahl an Kosmetikprodukten heutzutage wird es für Hersteller zunehmend wichtiger, sich vom Wettbewerb abzuheben und ihren Kunden einen besonderen Mehrwert zu bieten, wie zum Beispiel durch die Mikroverkapselung von Duft- und anderen Wirkstof- fen. Ob für Deodorants, Bodylotions oder Haarpflegemittel – Follmann bietet mit seinen Mikrokapseln der Marke Folco Capsolute eine einzigartige Technologie an, dank derer ein verlängerter Frischeeffekt oder eine längere Pflegewirkung erzielt werden kann. Dabei sind die Kapseln lagerstabil in dem Kosmetikprodukt und der Wirkstoff wird erst bei Bedarf durch eine mechanische Beanspruchung, wie zum Beispiel eine Berührung, kontrolliert freigesetzt. Zudem können durch die Verkapselung teure Wirkstoffe eingespart werden, da die Wirkstoffe in der Formulierung nicht zerstört werden und die Wirkung gezielter ist. Ein weiterer USP ist, dass Follmann als unabhängiger Hersteller sowohl Duft- als auch Wirkstoffe verkapseln kann. www.follmann.de n Qosmedix Introduces Refillable Fragrance Bottles Qosmedix recently introduced two new innovative 5 ml travel-friendly fragrance bottles featuring a refillable base that allows you to transfer liquids without using a traditional funnel or pipette. Available in two styles, the refillable spray bottle (Part # 29394) and refillable roller ball bottle (Part # 29395) allows consumers to easily create their own travel size version of their favorite scent. These items are conveniently packed with a separate adapter piece, which will help them fit almost any perfume bottle. These fragrance bottles can also be used in a retail setting to create travel size promotional giveaways during special events. www.qosmedix.com n DISCOVER THE WORLD OF BEAUTY Log in · Discover · Learn more Brand new international articles and much more Print & Online Ask for a sample copy h unic us at Visit ess in M Busin 1, 2015 etic -1 Cosm June 10 oth D 18 Bo 3, Hall 6 7/8 English/German 1955 2015 OF PASSION English/German Contents: 5 Editorial 5 Names & News 6 Names & News 6 Interview A conversation with Nilesh Shah, 8 Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Institutional and Personal Care Solutions, about new effective anti-aging technologies One ingredient that solves all the eye contour concerns Technical Articles 13 Use of Plant and Human Stem Cell Extracts in Cosmeceutical Anti-Aging Products and Vibrant Hair Styles By Yuliya Berezkin and Dr. Yash Kamath Specialty Silicones Provide Long-Lasting 26 Color Cosmetics: Their Anti-Aging Efficacy, L I N K T O I N N O V A T I O N S I N C E 1 9 5 5 Rossow - Headquarters, FRANCE - Tel: +33 (0)1 41 21 87 87 - contact@rossow.fr - www.rossow.fr Rossow USA - New Jersey, USA - Toll free: +1 (855) 776-7769 - contact@rossow-usa.com - www.rossow-usa.com 33 Issues, Opportunities and Innovation By Jeannette Graf, M.D. Trends & Markets Trends in ethnic cosmetics: 34 36 targeting the needs of a growth demographic By Imogen Matthews 35 New Ingredients New Products By Sara Mason New Ingredients 38 New Products 40 Formulations 30 Color and Unique Sensory Experience By Marc Eeman et al. 30 By Imogen Matthews Sara Speaks – The Promise of Stem Cells for Skin & Hair Rejuvenation 22 Film Formers for Creating Long Lasting European Business Development Manager Cosmetics, Brenntag Holding GmbH, about INNOVI’s new GPS-S (Guiding Performance System - Surface) Supported by 60 years of experience, ŽƵƌĐŽŵƉĂŶLJ͛ƐƌŝĐŚŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞĂŶĚƉƌŽƐƉĞĐƟǀĞǀŝƐŝŽŶĐĂŶƉƌŽǀŝĚĞLJŽƵǁŝƚŚ the resources to formulate your future. 16 By Howard Epstein, Ph. D. – Part 2 Unique Multifunctional Polyurethane By Jeannette Jacknin, MD Trends & Markets Skin ageing: the evolution of the anti-ageing trend The Significance of Homeostasis on Skin Aging 19 22 By Shyam Gupta, PhD News & Talk A conversation with Dr. Francois Bouton, 11 Cosmetics Application Technology, Worlée Cosmetics By Alicia Gimenez et al. Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing: A Bird's Eye View A conversation with Director of Development/ A cosmetic approach against cellular ageing processes By Angela Kleiner EXPERIENCE AT YOUR SERVICE Interview Florian Preuße, Dipl. Ing. (FH), 10 Senior Director of Customer Marketing, MeadWestvaco (MWV) Technical Articles When skin is getting on in years Specia Contents: Editorial A conversation with Tracy Doherty, 20 Volume No. RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015 41 Packaging & Machines 43 Events Beyond Beauty Paris Cosmetics Packaging 46 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 37 39 Formulations 42 Packaging & Machines 44 Events CosmeticBusiness in Munich in-cosmetics Brazil in-cosmetics Korea 45 45 46 Advertiser’s Index 47 Market-Place 48 Event Calendar 51 Event Calendar 51 Impressum 47 Impressum 47 June 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 July/August 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBH Euro Cosmetics P.O.B. 440255 · D-80751 München/Germany Phone: +49 (0) 89 / 36 03 74 27 · Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 32 66 75 53 info@eurocosmetics.de www.eurocosmetics.de BRODATECH l
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