LEG 4 DUBROVNIK to SPLIT HOW EXCITING TO

LEG 4 DUBROVNIK to SPLIT
HOW EXCITING TO HAVE THREE TASMANIANS SAILING THE ADRIATIC AND THE DALMATIAN
COAST!
Ian and Vicki Pearce arrived in Dubrovnik ready for a great adventure: a treat for the Birthday
Boy!
May 23 was great day for getting on supplies as the weather forecast was predicting gales and
rain.
All stocked up we make an early get away and a short shake down hop back to Okuklje, home of
Maran’s yummy food! After a while the wind fills from the SW and Ian is able to squeeze 6.4k on
a reach to Mljet with jib safely half furled in case of “squirts”. Vicki enjoys the breeze and the
stable comfort of Manca’s heavy ballasted keel.
Our first sail out of Dubrovnik to
Mljet
The master at the helm of the First
44.7 Great concentration!
We easily make Okuklje (a small cove with a few houses and two cafes), do a perfect job of
backing and picking up the “lazy lines” just before the random gusts, bullets and squirts begin
from the hills and saddles that completely surround the bay!
The afternoon is whiled away with walks to the Chapel where the Birthday Boy makes one short
bell pull for his 69th! Happy Birthday Ian!
Ring the Okuklje bell for the Birth Day Boy
(An aside: off stage! As I write a very large Croatian, with hands the size of a small elephant foot,
has squeezed his massive body into the aft head. Here he is taking off doors, heaving on pipes; in
an attempt fix the plugged toilet! Oh boy sailing is fun!)
Later that evening we have a guitar jam session by the dock calling up long forgotten tunes from
the past! Some docksiders smile and yes: there is applause!
Jam session at Maran's Café
Jam at Maran’s
Happy hour over we have a 1930 date with some oven baked fish and a few liters of the house
red. Maran is quite the Chef!
Slow baked fish in covered oven
Ian and Vicki enjoy Maran's great
hospitality
8 A great dish of scorpion fish
potatoes and...
May 25 is the birthday of Marshall Tito and Mr. Ian Pearce. It was also a full May moon. We
decide to wait out the scary, changeable forecast, enjoy Okuklje and have a quiet celebration
with Ian. The fried calamari is soft, sweet, juicy and tasty. Ian has been sailed, wined and dined in
style!
We enjoy a great hot breakfast. Life is good! Thanks Vicki. Ian is good on the dishes!
Thanks Vicki for a hot breakfast!
Well other things happen on full moons. The aft head is completely bunged up. A lovely job
ahead for Terry.
May 26 a late start for Polace on the NE end of Mljet. It is an easy distance for us. We weave our
way around the many small islands guarding the entrance to the ancient harbor. The old Roman
castle comes into view. Yep we’ve found the right place: Polace! The nasty squalls have gone and
now no wind. We putter up to the Bourbon café and quickly tie stern to in clear, clean, 6 meters;
just before the squalls and rain start again! Oh what luck!
The Roman castle comes into view in
Polace
Very fine dinig here
During the afternoon Vicki and Ian enjoy a stroll around the ancient forest and hamlet. I struggle
for three hours with the ****** head. I manage to clear it a bit but still stuffed solid. Oh! The
joys of the yacht owner.
The aromas from Bourbon café are amazing. We take the 15 metres walk up from Manca to
enjoy some five star dining:
Sardine starter
Grilled octopus appy
Terry: delicious tender wild boar with polenta,
Vicki: barbie lamb chops
Ian: barbie calamari Salad and Red wine.
No room for desert!
Bourbon staff prepare our meals
A five star feast
May 27 the very helpful owner of Bourbon Cafe arranges Ivo a local fellow with hands the size of
small elephant feet…see above…to fix the head. He has now been at it for three hours and is
nearly done. Excellent news!
Vicky and Ian have gone off to the wonderful little monastery – Sveta Marija - on the island of St
Mary’s in the lake of Veliko Jezero. So incredibly cute for the Benedictine Monks to arrange all
that for us!
Ian at St Mary’s chapel
The cloisters
I have just shared a Karlovačko with Ivo. We toast the renovated head! What a nice kind man.
”Pay me next time you are back if you don’t have 400 kuna!” So nice to have the head working
again. Sweet!
I now I hope to clean up and catch Ian and Vicky at the Monastery!
Dedication to sailors
Manca at Polace
Safey docked at Bourbon café
Tomorrow we plan to sail to Korcula site of an incredible naval battle.
Nite!
May 27 2013
WE SAIL INTO ANCIENT KORCULA
May 28 plans to leave the pleasures of Bourbon café behind are scrapped as we check the
forecast over and over only to find repeated bad weather ahead. So we end up with another
night of wonderful food; sharing octopus and calamari.
May 29 the weather is now safe but, oh boy, no wind! We putter off to Korcula. We arrive nice
and early. Ian and Vicki do a perfect job of picking up the lazy line and tying off the bow line. We
are docked right under the ancient city walls with an excellent view across the channel. We have
time to explore and ramble around the narrow back streets. A local young woman guards the
diorama of Marco Polo in jail after being on the losing side of the naval battle of Korcula
between the Venetians and Genoas. (Not sure but I think the Venetian lost 400 ships!). Marco
Polo, according the young guide, spent a few days here before being sent back to Venice.
VICKI
APPROACHING KORCULA FROM THE SEA
KORCULA RAMPARTS
CANON
YIKES THIS CANNON IS AIMED AT MANCA
IAN AND VICKI KORCULA HARBOR
KORCULA WOMAN
THREE TASMANIANS IN KORCULA
MARCO POLO IN PRISON CELL KORCULA
STEPS TO THE CITY GATE KORCULA
T SHIRTS OF KORCULA
THE MANY NARROW STREETS OF KORCULA ARE UNCHANGED
MUCH OF KORCULA IS BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED
THERE ARE MANY SHIP WRECKS IN THE
CHANNEL OF KORCULA
MANCA SAFE FROM THE APROACHING STORM
In the evening we are treated to an exquisite risotto on board prepared by Vicki! Ian is super at
the dishes! I could get to like this voyage! The same night an incredible storm of thunder,
lightening, pounding rain, hail and violent winds screeches through the dock.
A STROLL AROUND THE VINYARDS OF LUMBARDA
May 30 the forecast is again scary- (oh and as I write on June 1st, with only 7-10 forecast, a gust
of 30 has just ripped through the “completely protected Marina Palmizana) - so we decide to
stay put. In the afternoon we hire a taxi to take us wine tasting in the ancient Lambarda
vineyards where for centuries past they have developed a super white: “Grk”. The vintner
entertains us for a while; we stroll to a local beach, an easy walk past the vineyards, admire a
nicely restored church then back to the little port of Lambarda where we enjoy a cold toceno
(draft) beer with our driver.
LUMBARDA VIEW
LUMBARDA HARBOR
A SMALL CHAPEL IN THE VINYARDS LUMBARDA
WE ENJOYED A BEAUTIFUL WALK AMONG THE
VINEYARDS
THE SUN PASSING BEHIND THE SPIRE LUCKY SHOT
SUN DIAL TIME AND RESTORED CLOCK TOWER
DID NOT QUITE AGREE
WE TASTED THE POPIC FAMILY WHITE VERY
GOOD SMALL PRODUCTION
YACHT SAILS BY LUMBARDA VINYARDS
TASMANIANS THREE
In the evening we are astounded by a stunning performance: “The Seven Dances of the Swords”.
The Red Knights are determined to recapture the Princess from the Black Nights. We were asked
not to sit in the front rows! The swirling slashing, crashing, heaving, thrusting of the heavy knives
was indeed dangerous! Sparks flew from the swirling blades. The noise evoked a real battle.
Pieces of handles break off and fly across the stage. Blades of the heavy steel bend. The
performers, as they plunge on, get sweaty and begin to tire. Blood is dripping from the hands of
some of the younger men until finally with the last chaotic frenzy the Black Nights give up and
the damsel in great distress is handed back to her love… The Red Night! We are exhausted from
watching the famous show that has toured the world. The director proudly explains that Korcula
is the only town now that preserves this ancient sword dance: “THE MORESKA.”
The double handed knife slashing 7
dances.
The night continues with more thunderstorms.
May 31 the forecast looks ok. We are up early and ready to leave at about 0800. The heavens go
crazy!
HAIL STONES POUND THE DECK OF MANCA
A raging storm pounds the deck of Manca for 2 hours. It stops the forecast is still ok. We leave
Vela Luka on the west end of Korcula. We exit the naval battle grounds and then! The sky goes
black and explodes once more. Off to port, a water spout grows and appears to be advancing on
Manca. The wind builds. The rain starts! A new forecast suggests strong overnight westerlies and
more thunderstorms. Three sailing guides all agree: “Vela Luka is open to westerly winds”! We
alter course for Palmizana on St Klement island near Hvar and well protected from all winds. We
complete the 36.6nm in time for happy hour and a nice cold beer!
Later we take a short stroll over the Klement Island. Here we find a beautiful sheltered cove, a
beach and A 4-5 star restaurant. In the evening glow we enjoy super food, “St. Klement Cabernet
Sauvignon” from the island, stuffed peppers and a Kilo of grilled and fried tasty squid!
THE LOCAL GRK GRAPE WHITE IS SUPERB
HVAR: A WALK TO THE RAMPARTS
June 1 we wait for the rain to clear. Eventually in the early afternoon we take the pricey “sea
taxi” (minimum 500 kunas or 68 euros) to Hvar for a ramble about the fortified city. The ride is
fun!
WE ENJOY A FIGH SPEED, HIGH PRICED RIDE
FROM ST.KLEMENT TO HVAR
F
First is a stagger up the steps to the ramparts. Then the path eases off snaking around the base,
affording great views while your aching lungs try to recover.
Guess which one is the wise man from Hvar!
Vicki making a determined attack of the Hvar fort
Stunning views of Hvar on the path to the top
Late rains this year have kept the flowers blooming
Some of the coats of arms inside the castle
Black bird preening.
The red rooves of Hvar
The guns silent the flowers can grow
Ian and Vicki keeping the powder dry.
Hvar Castle Lupi coat of arms
Wild sage grows on the Hvar ramparts. Next day
we pass the islands and sail west to beautiful VIS
just out of the photo to the right.
VIS WHAT A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE ISLAND
AFTER IAN SAILED US AWAY FROM HVAR WE ENJOYED TWO LAZY DAYS ON THE BEAUTIFUL
ISLAND OF VIS. IT IS WONDERFUL THAT AFTER THE TROUBLES, THE ARMY HAS DESERTED THE
STRONG HOLD AND SOMETIME AGO VIS IS BECAME A DESTNATION FOR MANY SAILORS. I WAS
LAST THERE IN 2008. NOW FACILITIES FOR YACHTIES ARE GREATLY IMPROVED WITH MANY
SPACES FOR DOCKING AND IN THE CORNER BY KUT A LOT OF MOORING BOUYS. IN ADDITION IN
KUT A NEW DOCK IS BEING BUILT OUT OF BEAUTIFULLY FINISHED MARBLE.
JUNE 3 VICKI DID A GREAT JOB OF ARRANGING A 4X4 TOUR OF VIS. INTO THE BACK ROADS AND
VINYARDS WE ROAMED TASTING THE GREAT WINES AND ENJOYING SPECTAULAR VIEWS OT THE
MOUNTAINS, FARMS, COAST LINE AND DISTANT SMUDGE OF ITALY OFF TO THE WEST.
VIS STILL HAD WONDERFUL FLOWERS IN JUNE;
UNSEASONALL RAINS TO HELP THEM ALONG.
DAWN PAINTS A BEAUTIFUL WATER COLOUR
OVER VIS HARBOUR
THE CENTURIES OF FARMERS HAVE PILED UP
THE ROCKS TO MAKE WAY FOR VINES AND
VEGGIES
THE PILED ROCKS OF ANCIENT FARMERS' HARD
WORK CREATING VINYARDS.
IAN DREAMING OF BIG REDS. BENEATH HIS FEET A NEW VINYARD HAS BEEN
PLANTED.
FROM THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN OF VIS WE
COULD LOOK DOWN ON KOMIZA.
The fort is centre of photo.
KOMIZA AND LOOKING NORTH WEST
KOMIZA HARBOUR AND THE TERRACED FARM
LANDS. VIS AND KOMIZA ARE RIVALS FOR
EVERYTHING!
THERE HAS BEEN A BURST OF VINYARD
EXPANSION. THE HUNGRY LIMESTONE SOILS
PRODUCE GOOD DRY WHITES.
VIS OFFERS SOME GREAT ANCHORAGES IF THE
WIND IS RIGHT. BUT LOOK AT THE WHITE
HEADLANDS. STORMS HAVE REMOVED ALL
VEGETATION 20 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
LEA, OUR LOCAL GUIDE WAS GREAT FUN. SHE KNEW HER ISLAND HISTORY.
THE PHEASANT MALES ARE THE ONLY ALLOWED
TARGET. THE HUNTING IS POPULAR BUT
CONTROLLED TO PRESERVE THE SPORT AND THE
BIRDS.
APPARENTLY THE LOCALS HAVE A VERY SPECIAL WALK. COULD BE THE
MOUNTAINS OR THE WINE. RESEARCH CONTINUES.
GOOD TO SEE THE RESTORATION OF THE
ROOF.THE GREEK THEATRE IS UNDER THE
MONASTERY
THE SMALL POPULATION OF VIS IS WELL SERVED
WITH A LARGE FERRY
AFTER THE STORMY WEATHER I HAD TO SAY GOOD BYE TO AN OLD
FRIEND. 5 YEARS OF A SALTY LIFE ON MANCA IN THE MED HAD RUSTED
HIS BONES: BYE CHARLIE!
LEA, VICKI, IAN ENJOY JAM TASTING, COOKIES,
WINE AND HERBS
VIEW OF TWO SMALL HAMLETS: VIS AND KUT
BOTTOM LEFT.
LEA AND THE 4X4 HELPED US EXPORE THE
BACKROADS AND NEWLY PLANTED VINYARDS.
HEAD AND SHOULDERS ABOVE THE THREE
TASMANIANS, THE TALL CROATIAN LEA WAS A
GREAT GUIDE!
WILD LILLIES OF VIS THRIVE IN THE OLIVE
GROVES
GREAT WINE TASTING! A GIGANTIC BARREL IS
SET INTO THE WALL. LEA HAD TAKEN WINE
TASTING COURSES. LONG LEGS ON THE REDS
WITH A WESTERLY WIND THE ANCIENT SAILORS
COULD SAIL RIGHT INTO VIS AND THE
PROTECTED HARBOR
VICKI WAS GOOD AT SPOTING SPECIAL LOCAL DISHES: FISH
SOUP WITH WHITE BEANS
MILNA, MASLINICA, KREMIK, PRIMOSTEN, SKRADIN AND KRKA FALLS
While Milna could do with a bit of a face lift, the restoration of the old mansion and the new marina
at Maslinica has won awards for such a beautiful project. The new marina is finished white marble.
Bollards replicate the ancient port styles.
Milna Old Town Hall from ACI Marina
MASLINICIA BEAUTIFUL NEW MARINA IN WHITE
MARBLE ON SOLAT ISLAND
AWARDS WERE GIVEN FOR THE FANTASTIC DESIGN THAT ECHOES A GREEK
THEATRE
MASLINICA - CLEAR WATERS INVITE US TO
SWIM JUNE 5
MASLINICA - VICKI AND IAN ENJOY A NICE COLD
TREAT. AFTER ALL THE COMBINED YEARS OF
PROFESSIONAL WORK- HOW SWEET!
MASLINICA - YACHTS SAIL TO THE HARBOR. VIS
IS IN THE DISTANCE
MASLINICA - MODERN MEGA YACHT DESIGN
COMBINES SOME CLASSIC LINES: PLUMB BOW
WITH A CLASSIC TRANSOM.
Maslinica - Mega yacht dwarfs islet
MASLINICA - MANCA BESIDE THE BEAUTIFUL MARINA GARDENS
MASLINICA - YACHT SAILS BY GARDENS AND HARBOR
Maslinica - Terry and Manca hat
KREMIK
IT IS A FAIRLY SHORT HOP FROM SOLAT TO KREMIK. We used the Marina to secure Manca and
take the 10 minute taxi ride to Primosten.
Kremik - On the way was fun to see a cat
making a good effort with the light winds.
KREMIK - ON WAY TO KREMICK. A CHARTER
FLEET STARTING A RACE.
Kremik - Yachts drift by ancient stone walls.
THUNDER CLOUDS FOLLOWED US TO BRAC . WE
DECIDED TO HIDE IN THE SAFE PORT OF MILNA.
PRIMOSTEN
According the Thompson pilot, our trustworthy sailing guide book, Primosten was built on the island.
Walls surrounded it for protection against the Turks. Today the island is joined to the Croatian
mainland by a small causeway. A ramble around the old town, the intact small stone homes with
stone rooves, the great food at the Panorama Restaurant, the vistas and the sunset all make for a
magical ashore excursion.
Primosten. Many of the ancient stone homes
remain, some are still intact.
PRIMOSTEN - IAN BESDIE OLD STONE HOUSE
NOW A SMOKE HOUSE: WE THINK!
Primosten - Mural in the Primosten cathedral
depicts the old island city.
Primosten - Panorama Cafe we enjoy fine food
and wine with the sunset. Owner's olive groves
are in the background.
Primosten - sunset looking over Adriatic to Italy.
Primosten - sunset after the free schnapps locally known as travarica.
JUNE 7 SAIL UP THE KRKA RIVER TO SKRADIN AND THE FALLS
The putter up the Krka river brings many vistas and delights. There was also a bit of fear and
trembling as we pass under two bridges and the power lines. Manca’s mast is over 20 metres; plus
the radio antenna. Raymarine and Trevor and Dianah Thompson in the Adriatic Pilot give the
clearance details. We had room to spare but it always looks as if you won’t make it as you pass
under. The human eyes do not do a good job on perspective and range. We were also dogged by
Pirates.
On way to Krka Falls and Skradin we are attacked by pirates...or were
they tourists?
Submarines were hidden in these caves on the
Krka River. Nice to see them empty now.
Chugging up the river to Skradin Vicki checks the
mast height to pass under the bridges. We need
about 21 metres.
Oh No! Not more pirates! We fired a broadside
and the disappeared in a puff of smoke!
Croatia is very proud of their mussels used in
many dishes. The river near Sibenik is lined with
the farms.
Dalmatian limestone strata along Krka River.
The river is also well marked with navigation
aids. Some of the bends are 180 degrees.
The beautiful setting of ancient Skradin on the
Krka River.
Swans enjoy a pristine river in a well preserved
Krka Falls Park
Krka Falls in flood!
On hot summer days the falls are a Mecca for
bathers. These brave ones survive an unseasonal
cold snap.
Ian and Vicki enjoy the roar of the flooded falls.
Light and shade. The racing river.
How do the bending reeds cling against the
raging river forces?
1895 hydro electric history is made.
Ian and the historic turbine powered lights for
Sibenik.
Travertine terraces in the Krka falls.
This young local man liked Vicki’s foot!
The power of the water was used to run many
machines. The village and machines have been
beautifully restored.
Working grinding machines making flour.
The river gives life to a unique biodiversity.
Krka froggy! They make an incredible clacking
chatter when calling for a mate.
Vicki and Ian enjoy tasting in a great Skradin
wine cellar.
This hungry swan ate my non-skid on the
boarding plank.
View from the ACI Skradin Marina.
Ian listens to the roar of the river as the thunder
explodes right over our beer tent. The deluge
wrecked a great beer garden. The customers all
drenched squeezed into the small pub. The floor
soon flooded with the downpour making for
very soggy beer drinking.
Krka falls and flowers.
RETURN DOWN THE RIVER AND SAIL ON TO SPLIT
The ancient bastion guards the entrance to Krka
River. Canadian vessel Manca swept by avoiding
the cannon blasts.
On the return to Split we pass Primosten in the
early morning light.
Primosten speed boats are a hazard. My mate
Klaus had his 7m yacht destroyed by one of
these flying objects.
Our first view of Split with the Dalmatian
mountains behind.
Marina Kastella Gomilica is just off to the right.
The old towns were built out over the water.
There are about seven of these Kastellas along
the coast between Split and Trogir.
MIRAN ARIVES FROM SLOVENIA WITH A BAG OF REQUIRED ARC SAFETY GEAR
FOR MANCA
After leaving Manca in Athens Miran returned to Slovenia. He spent the next month working on an
order from AWN and preparing fitting for the AIS installation. Now on June 11 has driven over 500
km to rendezvous at Kastella Marina to complete the AIS installation. A project we thought would
take about 1 day, took three days!
Miran arrives with a box full of safety gear for the
ARC Rally including an orange storm jib, AIS,
flares, spare running lights and...
For three days Miran and his side kick Terry
struggled to install the AIS transponder, VHF and
GPS. Oh no! Not another hole in Manca!
The final touches to the antenna built for Manca
by one of Miran's Slovenian sailing mates!
FINALLY AFTER THREE DAYS THE JOB IS DONE. AIS TRANSPONDER WITH DEDICATED GPS AND VHF
ANTENNA. PLUS WE WERE ABLE TO RIG, REDY FOR USE, SPARE RUNNING LIGHTS; ANOTHER STEP IN
THE MIRIAD OF ISSUES WITH ARC SAFETY COMPLIANCE. Thank you Miran!
I HAD A COUPLE OF DAYS NOW TO COLLECT MY WITS BEFORE THE LEG FIVE CREW ARRIVE FOR THE
700 MILE LONG CROSSING FROM CROATIA TO SALERNO. WHILE THE HEAT AND THE BUSTLE OF SPLIT
DID NOT HELP MY FOCUS ON THE NEXT LEG IT WAS A GREAT BREAK FROM THE YACHT CHORES AND
MANCA’S DEMANDS. FOR EXAMPLE I WAS WORRIED ABOUT A WATER LEAK IN THE COOLING PUMP.
TRIED TO GET A MECHANIC. HE DID NOT COME! WOULD YOU BELIEVE I LEFT WORRIED SICK.. TURNS
OUT THERE WAS NO PROBLEM AT ALL!
A STAGGER AROUND SPLIT
SPLIT - JERI ARRANGES HER OWN BODY GUARDS
SPLIT - BRONZE MODEL OF SPLIT DIOCLETIAN’S
PALACE IN MIDDLE.
SPLIT - HATS
SPLIT - ACCORDEON PLAYER WITH PIDGEON
SPLIT- FISH HOOK AND YACHT
SPLIT - END OF WEEK CHARTER BOATS CIRCLE
AROUND TO GET A TURN AT THE FUEL DOCK
SPLIT - GREAT TO SEE THE LASER TEAM HAS
BEEN OUT SAILING
SPLIT - BRONZE MODEL OF SPLIT DIOCLETIANS
PALACE ON FORE GROUND
END OF LEG 4 DUBROVNIK TO SPLIT
CREW FOR LEG FIVE ARE DELAYED WITH CHANGE TO FLIGHTS. MIRAN RETURNS TO SLOVENIA. WE
FINALLY LEAVE SPLIT 3DAYS BEHIND SCHEDULE WITH A BIG PUSH AHEAD TO MAKE SALERNO BEFORE
JULY 3. BUT WE HAVE TIME TO SAIL INTO SOME OF THE BEST CROATIAN BAYS AND ENJOY A REVIST
TO SOME OF MY FAVOURITES.
TIME FLIES WHEN SAILNG FAST
ONE MONTH LATER I AM FINALLY FINISHING THIS ON TH AMALFI COAST NEAR THE HISTORIC GREEK
CITY OF PAESTUM. WE ARE SAFE IN AGROPOLI HARBOUR. AFTER A SUPERB MEAL ON JULY 5TH WITH
ALAN AND HIS DAUGHTER I AM MORE THAN READY FOR BED.
MAY BE TOMORROW WIL HAVE A CHANCE TO CATCH UP WITH LEG 5 SPLIT TO SALERNO…
MEANWHILE LEG 6 IS OFF TO A GREAT START TODAY WITH A BEAM REACH FROM SALERNO TO
AGROPLI
NITE,
FROM TERRY AND MANCA
July 5 2013