ThereconnaissanceinMayerKangriand JomoRimountains
Transcription
ThereconnaissanceinMayerKangriand JomoRimountains
FEATUREARTICLES• JANUSZMAJER& GRZEGORZCHWOLA T h er e c o n n a i s s a n c ei nM a y e rK a n g r ia n d JomoR im o u n t a i n s ,C h a n gT a n gp l a t e a ui nT i b e t 24daysi nT i b e t (23.09.08 ・ 16.10.08, 2008) On2 3S e p t e m b e r2008wef l e wfromKathmandut oLhasa.Ouraimwast og e tt oMayerK a n g r i m a s s i f ,l o c a t e donT i b e t a np l a t e a u-CHANGTA1吋G. 百1e h i g h e s tp e a k-MayerK a n g r i ,w h i c hh a s6 , 2 6 6 ma b o v es e al e v e l(N33ー 2 4 ',E86°46 ’), i sa l s oc a l l e dB o n v a l o tP e a k ,b e c a u s eo ft h enameo ft h ef i r s t t r a v e l e rwhosawi td u r i n gh i sj o u r n e yt h r o u g hChangTangb e t w e e n1 8 8 9 1 8 9 0-aFrenchman e a ro l dR u s s i a nmapsw h i c hweu s e d .The G a b r i e lB o n v a l o t .T h i snamei sp r o v i d e dbymorethan 血irty y Ipub. i n namec a nb ea l s of o u n dont h emapi n c l u d e di nSvenH巴din ’ s book-“Trans-Himalaya”(vol. I Londoni n1 9 0 9byMacmillana n dCoL t d. ) . C o n t e m p o r a r yW e s t e r nt o u r i s tmapso fT i b e ta n dC h i n e s er o a dmapsp r o v i d et h enameMayerK a n g r ia n d t h eh e i g h to f6 , 2 6 6m.Onlyonemap-“The M o u n t a i n so fC e n t r a lAsia”ー scale 1:3, 000, 000 (publish巴d b yMacmillanLondonL t d.C o p y r i g h tR o y a lG e o g r a p h i c a lS o c i e t ya n dMountE v e r e s t e i g h tof7, 0 l lm.T h i sh e i g h ti sa l s or e p o r t e dbyJ i i lN e a to n F o u n d a t i o n1 9 8 6, B a r t h o l o m e w )gives 出e h al i s to fu n c o n q u e r e d7, 0 0 0summitsi nt h ebook-“High A s i a " MayerK a n g r iR a n g e ,w i t hp e a k sl i k e Z a n g s e rK a n g r i and S e r uK a n g r ii nt h ew e s ta n d Purong K a n g r i( D u p l e xM o u n t a i n s )a n d Geladandong( T a n g g u p l aS h a n )i nt h ee a s t ,b e l o n g st ot h em o u n t a i n so fT i b e t a np l a t e a u. S e r i o u s l y ,t h ee x p l o r a t i o no fMayerK a n g r iplat巴au b e g a ni nt h el a s ttwodecad巴S o ft h en i n e t e e n t h centuη. I th a p p e n e da sif “ by t h eway”, because t h em a i ng o a lof 凶velers, s p i e sa n dp i l g r i m swast og e tt o t h ei s o l a t e d ,h o l yc i t yo fL h a s a-出e c a p i t a lo fT i b e t .D u r i n gt h el a s ttw巴nty y e a r so ft h enineteen出 cen旬ry, s e v e r a ldar吋evils 出巴d t or e a c hL h a s a .P e t e rH o p k i r kd e s c r i b e st h e ma sfollowing:“Th巴y c泊nefrom n i n ed i f f e r e n tcoun仕ies, a n dmad巴出eir a p p r o a c h e sf r o ma l m o s te v e r yp o i n to ft h ec o m p a s s .A l lexc巴pt o n e -aJ a p a n e s e-w e r ew h i t e ,a n da l lw e r ei n d i v i d u a l so fe x c e p t i o n a ld e t e r m i n a t i o na n dc o u r a g e .T h r e eo ft h e m o s tin仕巴pid wer'巴 women. Noneo fthemf o ramomentd o u b t e dt h e i rr i g h tt og a t e c r a s hTibet. 百1e f i r s t ,who started 出is r a c e ,wasac o l o n e lo fRussian 紅my -N i c h o l a sP r z e w a l s k i ,a n dh ewast h eo n l yo n ewhot r i e d twot i m e s-1 8 7 2a nd1 8 7 9 .D u r i n gh i ss e c o n dj o u r n e y ,j u s t1 5 0m i l e sfromL h a s a ,h ewass t o p p e dby otumb a c k .Wew出 concentrate o nt h e s etravel'巴rs, whose e m i s s a r i e so fT i b e t a ng o v e r n m e n twhof o r c e dhimt p a s s i n gl i n e st h r o u g hChangTangw e r et h ec l o s e s tt oMayerK a n g r im a s s i f . Theyw e r e : 1 .AF renchmanG a b r i e lB o n v a l o t ,whot r a v e l l e dw i t hyoungHenry-t h ed u k eo fO r l e a n( 1 8 8 9 1 8 9 0 ) 2.Ac a p t a i no fBritish 紅my i nI n d i a-H a m i l t o nBower( 1 8 9 1 1 8 9 2 ) 3.AnE n g l i s hP r e s b y t e r i a n-AnnieRoyleT a y l o r( 1 8 9 2 1 8 9 3 ) 4 .AFrenchmanJ u l e sD e t r e u i ldeR h i n sw i t hF e r d i n a n dG r e n a r d( 1 8 9 3 1 8 9 4 ) 5.AnE n g l i s hm a r r i a g e-L i t t l e d a l e( 1 8 9 5 ) G a b r i e lB o n w a l o tsawMayerK a n g r im a s s i ff o rthe 白rst t i m e ,whenh ewasc r o s s i n gt h em o u n t a i n sw h i c h h enamedD u p l e i x .I nh i sr e p o r tfromt h ej o u r n e y( d a t e d1 5J a n u a r y1 8 9 0 ) ,d e s c e n d i n ge a s t w a r d s f romD u p l e i xP a s s, h enoted:“In t h em i s tW巴 catch aglimps巴 of snowyp e a k s ,whichwec a l c u l a t et ob e a tl e a s t2 6 . 0 0 0f e e thigh ;…”(“Across T h i b e t "-English 仕anslation o fh i sbook“ Paris a uT o n k i nAT r a v e r s 8 9 1 ) .I n“ Across Thibet” Bonwalot i n c l u d e damaps h o w i n gth巴 route o fh i s LeTib巴t Inconnu” from 1 j o u r n e y . D e t r e u i ld eR h i n sp a s s e di nt h ec l o s e s td i s t a n c et oMayerK a n g r i . 65 eJAPANESEALPINENEWS2010 Mapo fMajerK a n g r iandJomoR 1 66 FEATUREA R T I C L E Se M a y e rK a n g r iIM a i n( 6, 2 8 6 m ) P 1 ( c a5 , 9 0 0 m ) M a y e rK a n g r iIS o u t h( 6, 1 6 5 m ) M a y e rK a n g r iN ( 6, 1 2 0 m ) " ' 6 , 2 0 0 m / M a y e rK a n g r iIE a s t( 6, 0 6 5 m ) F 1-MayerK a n g r ia s c e n tt h r o u g he a s t e r na n ds o u t h e r ns i d e 2 F2 ・ Mayer K a n g r id r o g a Thel a s ty e a r so ft h en i n e t e e n t hc巴ntury andt h ef i r s to ft h et w e n t i e t hweret h et i m e so fa c t i v i t yo ft h e s i aa n dTibet” , published i n g r e a t e s te x p l o r e ro fHighA s i a-aSwedeSvenH e d i n .I nh i sbook“ Central A 1 9 0 3 ,h eplaced “ A Mapo fT i b e ta n dE a s tTurkiestan”, which showedHedin ’s r o u t e sb e t w e e n1 8 9 9 1 9 0 2 andr o u t e so fp r e v i o u st r a v e l l e r s .Ont h i smap,t h e r ewasa l r e a d yt h enamePeakB o n w a l o t .A f t e rn e x t 3 , 0 0 0, 000map- “ A Map j o u r n e y sb e t w e e n1 9 0 6 1 9 0 8, h ep u b l i s h e d3-volume “ Trans-Himalaya” with 1: o fT i b e tShowingD r .SvenHedin’ s Routes” .Ap征t 企om t h enameM t .Bonvalot,白e mapp r o v i d e dnames o fO r l e a n sMtsヘ“Dutreuil d eR h i n sMt人“Dupleix Mts ”, “ Prevalski Mts” . Between1 9 1 7 like “ Prince H. 1922,H巴din p u b l i s h e d12-volumeworkentitled “ Southern Tibet” with twomapalbums.I nt h e s e a l b u m s ,wec a nf i n d1:1 , 0 0 0, 000map(G巴neral Mapo fE a s t e r nT u r k e s t a na n dT i b e t ) ,whichshowst h e r o u t e so fD u t r e u i ld eR h i n s ,Bowera n dSvenHedini nMayerK a n g r ia r e a. Then e x tw l l l t et r a v e l e rt u r n e d upi nMayerK a n g r ir e g i o ni nt h e1 9 8 0 s-i twasa nAmericanb i o l o g i s tGeorgeB .S c h a l l e r ,whomade s巴veral j o u r n e y st oChangTang 紅巳a betw巴en 1 9 8 7 1 9 9 4 .H i sj o u r n e y sb o r ef r u i t-i n1 9 9 3 ,ag r e a tn a t u r a l r e s e r v e( 3 0 0 , 0 0 0km2) wasc r e a t e d .S c h a l l e ri n c l u d e dt h er e p o r t sfromh i sj o u r n e y si nt h ebook “ Tibet ’ s HiddenWilderness-WildlifeandNomadsoft h eChangTangReserve ”( 1997). Thed e s c r i p t i o no ft h er田erve anda n i m a l sl i v i n gth巴r巴 was i n c l u d e di nt h ea r t i c l e-“Threats t ot h eChang R e s e r v e, Tibet” written byD a n i e lJ .M i l l e randGeorgeB. S c h a l l e r , whichwasp l a c e dont h ew e b s i t e o fT i b e t a nGovernmenti ne x i l e(www . t i b e t . c o m / e c o / g r e e n 9 8 / c h a p 1 0 ) . GeorgeB .S c h a l l e rv i s i t e d ChangTangr e g i o na g a i n .R e p o r t sfromt h ej o u r n e yb e t w e e n1 6and25O c t o b e r2006, youc a nf i n du n d e r T叩g 67 FEATUREA R T I C L E Se F3-J omoR iM o u n t a i nG r o u p-H i g h e s tpa同 F4-J omoR iM o u n t a i nG r o u p-S e c o n dl a r g e s tpa吋 t h et i t l e“ The G r e a tChangTangTrav巴rse -P r e l i m i n a r yR e p o r tt ot h eN a t i o n a lG e o g r a p h i cSociety” on t h ew e b s i t e www.loe. o r g / i m a g e s / 0 7 0 3 0 9 / t h e g r e a t . I nAtumn2 0 0 8 ,aC h i n e s eJ u n t a oJ i a n gmadeac y c l ej o u r n e yi nJomoR im o u n t a i n sr e g i o n-fromt h e p l a c ec a l l e d Rongma a l o n g Jomo Ri,next 巴astwards t ot h e plac巴 called Shuanghu a n da g a i n s o u t h w a r d st oS e r l i n gTsoLake. Hepublish巴d ap h o t or e p o r ti nt h eP i c a s s aWebAlbumu n d e ran i c kS i n g l eS i n g e r( 2 0 0 8 ,Tibet)ー picasaweb.googl巴 .com/junta/2008tibet. F o u rp i c t u r e sfromt h i salbuma r e i n c l u d e di no u rwork. f r o mno口h t os o u t h )wasp e r f o r m e dbyaSwedeJann巴 Corax a n d Thef i r s tChangTang ’ s cycle 位averse ( 69 FEATUREARTICLES• h i sp a r t n e rN a d i n e ,Summer2 0 0 3( J a p a n e s eA l p i n eNews2007o rw w w 3 . u t s i d a n . s e ). AsC o r a xs t a t e si n h i sa c c o u n t-f o r3 1d a y st h e ydidn ’ t meeta n yhumanb e i n g .T h e i rr o u t ea l m o s to v e r l a p p e dw i t hSven o u t ed u r i n gh i sf i r s tj o u r n e yt oT i b e ti n1 8 9 9 1 9 0 2 . Hedin ’s r The c l i m b i n ga c t i v i t yi n ChangTangm o u n t a i n s was t a k e nu po n l yi nZ a n g s e rK a n g r im a s s i f (no巾west f romMayerk如gri) . Thef i r s ta s c e n twasp e r f o r m e dbyaJap如ese-百betan expe制on i n1 9 9 0 (AAJ1 9 9 1p .2 9 9 ) ,th巴 second asc巴nt, i nt h ea l p i n es t y l ea n djoin巴d w i t hChangTang ’s trav巴rse, was p e r f o r m e dbyF r a n kKauperandS t e f a nSimmerer(AAJ1 9 9 8p p .1 2 4 1 3 0 ) . F i r s t l y ,wehadt or e a c ht h ev i l l a g ec a l l e dNyima.On24S e p t e m b e rweg o tfromLhasat oS h i g a t s e .We 仕avelled i ntwoT o y o t aLandC r u i s e r s5400a n d ,ap紅t f r o mt w od r i v e r ,w巴 W巴re a c c o m p a n i e dbyag u i d e andacook.Then e x td a y ,weh e a d e dn o r t h w a r d sa n dp a s s i n gNamlingwer e a c h e dKikuLaP a s s (N30。 14〆 941, E8 9ー 1 8 ' 3 4 0, 5, 1 2 0m)i nT r a n s h i m a l a y a s( N y e n c h e nT a n g l aR a n g e ,W e s t ) .Wh巴n wew e r e c r o s s i n gth巴 pass, t h eChin巴se p o l i c es t o p p e du s .I tturn巴d o u tt h a tS h a i n z ad i s t r i c twasc l o s e dt o f o r e i g n e r s .Wehadt ot u r nbackt oLhasaanda t t e m p tt og e tt oNyimat a k i n go t h e rway .A f t e ra b i v o u a con5 , 0 0 0m,wer e t u r n e dt oL h a s at h ef o l l o w i n gd a ya n da f t e r w a r d s ,on2 7Septemb巴r, wed r o v e t h r o u g ht h eLhasa-Golmudhighwayt oNakchu.2 8Septemb巴r, a f t e rs e v e r a lkmo fa na s p h a l tr o a d, we t u r n e dw e s t w a r d si n t ot h ep r a i r i e .I nt h ee v e n i n gwer e a c h e dab i v o u a cp l a c en e a rt h es巴ttlement c a l l e dB a i n g o i n(N31ー 2 6 '4 7 2 ,E89 ° 59〆 653 , 4 , 7 6 9m). On2 9S e p t e m b e r ,weg o tt oa n o t h e rb i v o u a cw e s t w a r d sfromS巴rling T s oLake,b u tb e f o r eNyima(N3 1ー 40〆 591, E 8 8ー 3 2 '2 1 1,4 , 5 5 4m ) .3 0 S e p t e m b e r ,a f t e rp a s s i n g Nyima wher巴 we r e f u e l e do u rc a r s , we bivouack巴d i n aplac巴 with g e o g r a p h i cc o o r d i n a t e s-N 32ー 0 7 '1 0 4 ,E 86ー 5 3 ' 3 2 3 ,ont h el e v e lo f4 , 6 5 1m.On1O c t o b e r ,we , 9 0 0m ) ,fromw h i c hwesawMayerK a n g r iPeakf o rt h e c r o s s e dt h ep a s s(N32°39 ’ 974, E86 ° 31 〆 035, 4 f i r s tt i m e .Wed r o v edownhill 企om t h ep a s st oY i b u kT s a k aLakea n dr e a c h e dt h el a s ts e t t l e m e n t-Rongma. A f t e rwep a s s e dt h ev i l l a g e ,t h er o a ds t a r t e dt u r n i n gn o r t h w a r d si n t ot h eb a c kv a l l e y( o nt h el e f ts i d e, we hadm o u n t a i n smarkedont h eR u s s i a nmap5 , 9 8 1 m ). Wer e a c h e da n o t h e rp a s sa n de n t e r e dav a l l e yw i t h al a k e( 4 , 7 9 7m a c c o r d i n gt ot h eR u s s i a nm a p ) .From 出at p l a c eweh e a d e de a s t w a r d sa n db i v o u a c k e do n , 0 3 5 m ). t h ec h a r a c t e r i s t i cp l a t e a u(N3 3ー 1 2' 3 8 5 ,E86°43 ’ 265, 5 l a c ef o rab a s ecampa n d Then e x td a y , wet o o kj u s to n ec a ra n d , w i t h o u tb a g g a g e ,d r o v et ofind 出巴 best p o u n t a i nits巴If. B e c a u s ei twasi m p o s s i b l et od r i v eup 血emountain 台om 血e n o r t h , t h eb e s twayt oreach 血e m we 印rned e a s t,c r o s s e dahugep l a t e a uandtaking “ the mainr o a d "g o tt ot h emoutho ft h ev a l l e y . Ther巴, we d e c i d e dt oe s t a b l i s ho u rbas巴 camp (N3 32 47 7 6 ,E8 64 8760 , 5 , 0 5 7m ) .Wes e ti tup 血e n e x t d a yand,出血e a f t e r n o o n ,madear e c o n n a i s s a n c eof 由巳 eastern s i d e .At8A.M . ,出e t e m p e r a t u r ein 由巳 bas巴 campf l u c t u a t e dfromm i n u s1 5t ominus1 2d e g r e e sC e l s i u s-t h es u na p p r o a c h e dt h eb a s ea t8. 3 0 A.M. Thef o l l o w i n gd a y ,weasc巴nded h i l l sont h es o u t h e r ns i d eo fMayerK a n g r i( 5 , 7 0 0m ) . 0 / 0 / On5O c t o b e r , wemadea n o t h e rr e c o n n a i s s a n c eont h ee a s t e r ns i d eG r z e g o r zr e a c h e dt h ee a s t e r ns u m m i t ( 6 , 0 5 3m)andIr e a c h e dt h ep o i n tont h er i d g e( 5, 8 6 5m ) .On6O c t o b e r ,wed r o v eonm o t o r b i k e sw i t h nomadst ot h en o r t h e r ns i d eo fMayerK a n g r im a s s i f ,wherewet o o kp i c t u r e sfromt h en o r t ha n dt h e n o r t h e a s t .Th巴 most w e s tadvanc巴d p o i n thadg e o g r a p h i c a lc o o r d i n a t e s-N3 33 36 5 4 ,E8 64 92 0 5 .The n e x td a y ,wemadea 出p along 出巴 plateau m 出e d i r e c t i o no fJomoR i-m o u n t a i n sl o c a t e dm 出e s o u t h e a s t fromMayerK a n g r i( 6 , 0 1 5a n d6 , 0 0 2onth巴 Russian m a p ) . 。 On8O c t o b e r ,wel e f tt h eb a s ecamp.D u r i n go u rr e t u r n ,wet o o kadi妊erent way t h a ti s ,from B a i n g o i nd i r e c t l yt oNamtsoLak巴ー to t h ep l a c ec a l l e dT a s h iD o o r .Fromt h eh o l yT a s h iDoorh i l l ,t h e r e i sab e a u t i f u lv i e wo v e rNyenchenT a n g l aRange, W e s t .1 2October.,出rough L a r g e nLaP a s sw巴 got t ot h e Golmud-Lhasar o a d ,w h i c hwed r o v et ot h eT i b e t a nc a p i t a l .Wes p e n tt h r e ed a y si nL h a s av i s i t i n gP o t a l a , N a b u l i n k aandJokhandt e m p l e. On1 6O c t o b e r , wef l e wt oKathmandu. 71