St Tropez

WPStTropezFINALnew text.qxd
10/5/07
09:51
Page 11
ST TROPEZ
Go ahead, close your eyes and say “Saint Tropez” out loud. Can you feel the heat of the Mediterranean sun
as you dig your toes into the white sand on the Plage de Pampelonne? What are you drinking? An iced
cappuccino? Champagne? Or maybe a chilled cocktail? Or perhaps you fancy rubbing shoulders with one of
the stars seen strolling the cobbled streets – Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, the Beckhams, P. Diddy.
BY CHRISTOPHER PITTS
throughout the town that every step you take
seems to cross an iconic moment in the
world of fashion. Of course, like everywhere
else on the French Riviera, there’s a rich
cultural legacy just waiting to be discovered.
But first things first: where do you find the
hottest beaches?
East of town is the 5km stretch of white
sand known as the Plage de Pampelonne,
which boasts the most exclusive beach clubs,
all offering classy restaurants and some form
of glitzy entertainment – think fashion shows,
international DJs and lots of beautiful people.
At the top of this year’s list is Nikki Beach,
which exudes the legendary Saint Tropez jetset vibe (complete with champagne
spraying). Next up is La Voile Rouge, a cashonly, sun-drenched playground that flirts with
the wild side. If you’re after something
slightly more scaled back, head for the highend Plage Tahiti or Club 55; the latter got its
start as a makeshift hut catering for the cast
and crew of Roger Vadim’s And God Created
Woman in 1955.
Of course, Saint Tropez is much more than
a simple strip of celebrated beach life. Sitting
PHOTO © SMACT
Whatever the image that comes to mind
when you think of “Saint Trop” (as the French
call it), it’s bound to involve something
resembling rest and recreation in a style that
borders on opulent. On the celebrity in-list for
over half a century now, this tiny sixteenthcentury fishing village has somehow retained
its unmistakable pastel-hued Riviera chic
without ever going out of vogue. The largerthan-life landmarks, like Club 55 – which
dates from the era of Brigitte Bardot and the
world’s most famous bikini – and the plush
Hotel Byblos, are sprinkled so liberally
Sainte Maxime
JUNE 2007 WHERE PARIS 11
WPStTropezFINALnew text.qxd
11/5/07
10:08
Page 12
opened Pan Deï Palais,
a 19th-century
mansion originally
built for a Punjabi
princess, the Château
Hôtel de la
Messardière,
overlooking the town
from its secluded
hillside location, and,
in the nearby hamlet
of Gassin, the Hôtel
Villa Belrose, with jawdropping panoramas
to help get your day
off to the right start.
SUMMER
EVENTS LINE-UP
You’ve lounged on
the beach and
perfected your tan, hit
all the hippest
restaurants and even
tried jet skiing. So
what’s next? By all
accounts, the summer
of 2007 will be
another exciting year
for culture vultures,
with the opening of
“Mediterranean
Dialogues” at Saint
Tropez’s 16th-century
citadel. The spotlight
Ramatuelle
this year is on the
legendary soprano Maria Callas, with a
special tribute commemorating the thirtieth
anniversary of her death. The tribute features
live performances followed by a giant
projection of the opera Tosca. Shows are on
June 22 and June 23 only, so book your seats
as soon as possible.
Other events taking place at the citadel this
summer include a monumental sculpture
garden, with exhibitions set up within the
citadel’s keep (reopened for the first time
since 2002). There are no fewer than six
other Mediterranean-themed exhibits around
town from July to October, including a special
Picasso “Mediterranean Myths and
Landscapes” collection, on display at the
Musée de l’Annonciade. Various video and
sculptural installations throughout the town
quayside at the harbour face-to-face with
luxury yachts as you read the morning paper,
window shopping for the latest high-end
fashions, taking in a game of boules at the
place des Lices, or visiting the Musée de
l’Annonciade – which houses an extraordinary
collection of Post-Impressionist paintings
from Signac, Matisse, Dufy and Bonnard – it’s
all part of that exquisite southern French
allure.
And no trip to the Côte d’Azur is complete
without indulging in the ultimate of French
indulgences: la cuisine gastronomique. Local
favourites include l’Escale, a hip new seafood
spot with a retractable roof and sand-covered
floor; La Villa Romana, a long-time celebrity
favourite that features outrageous décor
(and, incidentally, delicious Italian cuisine);
and Colors, whose grilled steaks and fresh
fish are served in an intimate courtyard.
Ramatuelle
Wherever you wind up, make sure you
have enough to keep you going until dawn.
If you thought Saint Tropez’s beaches were
wild, the nightlife – featuring clubs like the
VIP Room, Papagayo and Les Caves du Roy
– certainly won’t disappoint, provided you
have the cash to keep the buzz going until
sunrise.
Sleeping might seem like an
afterthought for the summer crowds, but
you’ll still want to reserve one of the town’s
choice hotels for that early morning siesta.
In addition to the famed Hotel Byblos,
other luxury choices include the newly
12 WHERE PARIS JUNE 2007
itself promise a return to Saint Tropez’s
bohemian roots.
AROUND SAINT TROPEZ
For some, the most captivating aspects of
the Côte d’Azur are the undeveloped, rolling
hills and picturesque Provençal villages that
lie within view of most seaside resorts.
Whether you need a break from the crowds
or are simply in the mood for a little day-trip,
the following towns are our top picks.
SAINTE MAXIME
With its sheltered location facing Saint
Tropez across the gulf, the resort town of
Sainte Maxime tops the list for those who
enjoy active water sports like windsurfing,
sailing, scuba diving and water skiing. Highend accommodation and personalised
hospitality make this a good base for families
on holiday or couples looking for a little
privacy. Don’t settle for anything second-rate:
Le Beauvallon has a private beach, two
restaurants, a pool and access to a golf
course; La Belle Aurore is a gorgeous
boutique hotel situated right at the sea’s
edge; and the chateau-like Amarante Golf
Plaza boasts its own sauna, pool, private golf
course and tennis courts.
PORT GRIMAUD
Nicknamed Little Venice, Port Grimaud is a
tiny harbour built around canals, with home
owners (like Joan Collins) using yachts
instead of cars to get around. There are
plenty of restaurants and cafés where you
can sit, soak up the sun and admire the view,
but keep in mind that you’ll need to hire a
boat to get around. A few kilometres straight
uphill from the port is the breathtaking village
perché of Grimaud, lorded over by the
remains of its medieval castle. Spectacular
views over the azure sea and the undulating
coastline reward those who manage to follow
the steep rue des Templiers to the top of the
village.
RAMATUELLE
Those who enjoy savouring a glass of
chilled rosé on summer afternoons won’t
want to miss Ramatuelle. A medieval village
in the St. Tropez hinterlands, Ramatuelle
overlooks a picturesque patchwork of Côtes
de Provence vineyards, verdant forest and
A
WPStTropezFINALnew text.qxd
10/5/07
09:52
Page 13
A ADDRESSES
Saint Tropez Tourist Office
Quai Jean Jaurès
Tel: 08 92 68 48 28
www.ot-saint-tropez.com
Hotels
Hotel Byblos
Avenue Paul Signac
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 56 68 00
www.byblos.com
Château Hôtel de la
Messardière
Route de Tahiti
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 56 76 00
www.messardiere.com
ST TROPEZ © VILLE DE SAINT TROPEZ
Hôtel Villa Belrose
Boulevard des Cretes La
Grande Bastide
Gassin
Tel: 04 94 55 97 97
www.villabelrose.com
Le Beauvallon
Boulevard des Collines
Ste. Maxime
Tel: 04 94 55 78 88
www.lebeauvallon.com
La Belle Aurore
5 Boulevard Jean-Moulin
Ste. Maxime
Tel: 04 94 96 02 45
Amarante Golf Plaza
Domaine du Golf
Ste. Maxime
Tel: 04 94 56 66 66
www.jjwhotels.com
Restaurants
L’Escale
9 quai Jean Jaurès
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 97 00 63
glittering blue sea. Like most hilltop towns, its
snail-like form – with lanes and covered
passageways spiralling outward from the
centre – was designed for defensive
purposes. The Église Notre-Dame, its 17thcentury church, was part of the original outer
wall that protected the village, with a bell
tower that doubled as a lookout perch. Inside
you’ll find two 16th-century statuettes (the
Virgin Mary and Joseph) and a bust of the
town’s spiritual protector, Saint André, carved
from a fig tree stump. In the heart of the
village is the former feudal castle, refurbished
in the 18th century by a local family. After
wandering the narrow streets that wind past
bougainvillea- and jasmine-strewn trellises,
you can continue your promenade à pied by
following one of the local nature paths that
lead down, to hidden coves, or up, past the
Moulin de Paillas, a 19th-century stone
windmill 325 metres above the sea.
St. Tropez’s celebrated beaches are easily
reached from Ramatuelle, however those in
the know will want to head out to the
preserved coastline of Cap Camarat, marked
by the Camarat lighthouse at the cape’s tip.
From here, a pleasant two-hour walk south
along the sea’s edge, past the tiny, secret
coves known as les criques du Canadel, will
bring you to beautiful, wind-swept Cap Taillat.
For a real treat, ask at the tourist office about
visiting these areas by boat to go snorkelling.
Villa Romana
Chemin des Conquettes
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 97 15 50
Colors
3 rue du Temple
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 97 00 15
Beach Clubs
Nikki Beach
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel. 33 4 94 79 82 04
www.nikkibeach.com/sttro
pez
La Voile Rouge
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel: 04 94 79 84 34
Tahiti
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel. 33 4 94 97 18 02
www.tahiti-beach.com
Club 55
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel. 33 4 94 55 55 55
www.leclub55.com
La Citadelle de Saint Tropez
Montée de la Citadelle
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 97 59 43
Musée de l’Annonciade
Place Grammont
St. Tropez
Tel: 04 94 97 04 01
Closed Tues.
Of course, you’ll want to save the best for
last: make sure to tour the region (preferably
in a convertible) and sample some of the
local wine appellations – these are the top
vineyards along the coast, producing quality
rosé wines, with 75% of the production given
the distinguished A.O.C. (appellation d’origine
contrôlée) label. Once you’ve completed an
Baie Pampelonne
afternoon of wine tasting, it’s time to head
back to the village for evening entertainment.
Ramatuelle’s outdoor theatre plays host to a
continuous line-up of performances
throughout the summer, ranging from
classical music and jazz concerts to the
town’s famous theatre festival in August.
EATING OUT
Candle-lit tables draped in Provençal linens
set the scene at L’Ecurie du Castellas,
Ramatuelle’s ambassador of the worldrenowned cuisine du soleil (Route des
Moulins de Paillas, tel: 04 94 79 11 59). For a
more relaxed meal consisting of the most
authentic bowl of bouillabaisse (fish stew)
this side of Marseille, follow the locals down
to the plage de Bonne Terasse where you’ll
find the beachfront Chez Camille
(tel: 04 98 12 68 98). W
St Tropez
JUNE 2007 WHERE PARIS 13