Heritage

Transcription

Heritage

Industry
&
Heritage
4 walks
showing the industrial heritage
of the estuary of Bilbao
Before the titanium came iron
European
Industrial
and Technical
Heritage
Year
2015
Walk 2
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
MERCHANDISE
Industry
Industry
6
El Pontón
Along the Los Caños route
to the Ribera Market
From the Area of the
Mines to Harino Panadera
New Areas/Classical
Ensanche/Old Quarter
ASSESSMENT
VERY INTERESTING
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
IN THE BOTXO
30
ROUTE
BILBAO
CARD
This card is your passport to savings when
planning your stay in Bilbao; use it for public
transport, museum and theatre tickets,
restaurants, shops and other leisure activities.
Request it at any tourist information office or on:
www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo
54
ASSESSMENT
UNMISSABLE
ROUTE
9 km
Version: MAY 2015. Version one
Published by: Bilbao Bizkaia be Basque
Content: Rúbrica
Printers: Artes Gráficas Munguía, S.L. / Legal Deposit: BI-625-15
Back to Bilbao
ASSESSMENT
INTERESTING
8.4 km
Walk 3
IRON: THE RED
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
Industrial architecture of the twentieth century
ROUTE
6.3 km
Heritage
From the temple of knowledge to the old
shipyards
Larreineta funicular railway
La Arboleda - Zugaztieta
Miners and mines: the
devoured mountain
Ortuella
EXTENSION 1:
Mining remains between
Kobaron and Pobeña.
From Ortuella: 10 km.
EXTENSION 2:
El Pobal foundry.
From Ortuella: 10 km.
Walk 4
ONE RIVER,
TWO WORLDS
76
Barakaldo. The industrial leader
Sestao. The factory city
Portugalete. Fusion of both sides of the river
Getxo. The mansions of the industrialists
ASSESSMENT
UNMISSABLE
ROUTE
EXTENSION 3: La Encartada
textile factory.
From El Pobal: 18 km.
12 km
106
PRACTICALINFORMATION
4 WALKS SHOWING THE
Comparison between 1863 (before the emergence of extraction and production) and 1910.
INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE OF
THE ESTUARY OF BILBAO
Walk 4
Walk 3
Industrial Bilbao is to
iron as contemporary Bilbao
is to the thousands of jobs
related to knowledge and
innovation
“
”
Walk 2
Walk 1
Comparison between Sestao and Portugalete in 1864 and 1962.
You are in a city that has been recognized
internationally as an example of urban
regeneration. In the last 20 years it has evolved
dramatically from a worn-out industrial
metropolitan model to a service-oriented urban
setting with third generation companies.
Under its skin lie the physical remains and
soul of a city that iron turned into the most
economically important of the Atlantic Arc
(from Porto to Bordeaux) from the 18th century
onwards.
Like other cities in which vitality is a key factor
to understanding it, Bilbao and its surroundings
are like an onion with different layers; the best
known are those spaces which are internationally
renowned and the Old Quarter.
Beneath that image, however, there are many
others, and the one that brings out its most
idiosyncratic side is that which arises out of its
industrial character, in an enclave surrounded by
iron mines that have been worked since Roman
times. The high quality of its ore with little
sulphur, low cost and proximity to a large port
made it an excellent raw material for both the
forges of Bizkaia and the Bessemer furnaces in
the industrial revolution.
This was a process of innovation which, from
the mid-nineteenth century on, thanks to the
accumulation of capital made in mining activities,
led to the emergence of emporiums of steel,
energy, finance, chemicals, commerce, shipyards,
tools and teaching. It gave rise to an intensive
industrial network that has continued to this day,
although the most significant productive part
disappeared in the 1980s and 1990s.
All of this provides a unique testimony of how the
city and its surroundings ‘invented itself’ between
the last third of the nineteenth century and first
third of twentieth century, and provides clues which
help us understand the process of ‘reinvention’
currently going on, based on the model of city that
started in that economic and social explosion. In
fact, the towns along the river saw their populations
multiplied by four in just 40 years (1880-1920).
On these walks, you will be able to observe the
heritage of that time, with multifaceted renovations
and remains, including proto-industrial, industrial,
manufacturing and residential architecture,
infrastructures and civil buildings and cultural
facilities. The cultural concept of industrial heritage
does not only refer to landmarks and buildings; it
also covers all aspects of life around its ability to
generate wealth.
Along with physical remains of the industrial past,
you will see areas away from the beaten tourist track
which show to a great extent the essence of this city.
In its most famous images there remains a memory
and influence of the industry which was alive until 30
years ago and which has profoundly influenced the
lifestyle of its inhabitants, its demographics, culture
and social values.
These walks do not cover all aspects of the city, or even
its entire industrial heritage; they are comfortable,
accessible trips, on foot or in easy public transport,
which allow you to see a significant percentage of the
most important features of this area.
This material is complemented
by the website which shows other
graphic materials, links and data
updates: bioiron.info
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
MERCHANDISE
ASSESSMENT
ROUTE
6.3 km
VERY INTERESTING
“So much Bilbao in the memory...”
(Blas de Otero)
01_El Pontón
02_Along the Los Caños route to the Ribera Market
03_From the Area of the Mines to Harino Panadera
04_New Areas / Classical Ensanche / Old Quarter
Walk 1
Industry
MINES, MILLS AND
A
L D A K A O
A
O
S
an
S
S
ati
os
IB
S
U
S
R
A
B
I
A
ET
LU
BO
A
N
eo
m
er
B
y
án
ti
as
eb
Q U ÍN
E
R
on
O
L
D
a
A
I R
M
ad
rid
,B
el
on
a,
Va
l
c
en
ia
y
Vi
g
9
A M
I N O
D E L
Fe r r o
car
Fe r r o c a r r i
ril
l
de
Bi
lb
a
P O N de B
T Ó ilb
ao
N
M
A V
E N
I D
A
I D
EA
A
B
L
I
B
A
R
T E
E
R
R
A
C
O
D
OQU
E
J. IR
IGOY
EN
XU
UT
NT
ID
ÓN
L
-
G
IA
RR
AV
.I
TR
L
BA
ZA
SA
LARR
CU
PA
RT
I
JU
GA AN
RD
EA
AV. IN DA
LE
o
a
c
ar
l
C
G
A
E
RR
LA
S-
RE
PARQUE
LARREAGABURU
M
M IR
A
Á C
O L
A
FLO
Santa
María
Z
l
A
VIADU
CT O
I
C. P.
Ibaizabal
E
b
S
BR
M IM
LO
O
C
.
DE
ZAR
DINO G
ARIA
A
MIN
BENAR
IA
JUL
N PA Z A R
A
K
O
LT
A
TRV.
SA GARMÍNAGA
E
ND
LE
R
LA
RÍ
CI O PR
IE TO
S
FRA AN
N
QU ITCISO
GA
T
GO ORR
RO E
ST
.
TE
N
A
C
U
UR
ÁB
ND
LA
O
AL
P.
M
R
A
SE
CA
R
BEG
E
D
TU
O
L
LI
N
E
E
A
ZAM AR
K
CUE
. AZ
R. M
VIA
AN
N
M
A
C
ENRIQU
IBARRE E
TA
RIPA
IT
OÑA
JU
E
O
BI
D
I
TR.
OLLERIA S
A LTA S
ZU M Á RRA GA
T.
ESC.
C
A
N
U
S
A
T
A
K
Z A
B A
L B
I D E
A
RA Ó N
LD I C
E
UR
A.
ST EB A
P
L
LA
IL
IB
IR
M
OLA
NO
S
A
TR.
M ASU
STEGI
I
EG
ST
SU
MA
EA
TX
OE
EK
RR
AU
O
G.
P. R EM I V I L A RI Ñ
E. S
O
SOLOKOETXE
TE
R
E
R
R
TO
ZA BA LBIDE
D
D
ST
LV
O
R
ÍN
PO
CN
O.
DE
L
A
ES
ÍA
TU
R.
OR
CT
LO
O
R
R
PE
EL
JA
D
VI
ES
IN
RD
I
HERNAN
IÑ A
GU
T.
S
E
NE
ARA
LA
E
Z
R
a
a
1
a
a
b
a
z
i
N
PARQUE IBAIEDER
Fe
L
O
rr
oc
zá
ar
ri
ba
l
l d
e
lb
A
B
I B A
I A L
D E
U
U
S
ao
Á
M
A
Z
a
M
ad
Buen Pastor
y Sta. Teresita
ri d
,Ba r
c el o n
a , Va l e n c i a y V i g o
A
C. P. Zamácola
Juan Delmas
C
ÍN
T
b
a
Ollargan
rg
rga
AS
R
CI
N
EN
RA
BE
RI
MERCE
B A I L É N
DE
TE
T.
D
R
RA
AV
.I
SI
A
IS
ÉS
R
D
N
I
A
S
A
IS
S
É
R
D
U
AO
N
A
Alto de
Miraflores
IN
A
E
OLAB.
R
O
N
L
E
E
D
L
A
G
U
L
I
R
R
A
C
O
R
R
CA L Z AD A S DE M
AL LON
T
ES RA
TU V.
FA
AL
AM ISTAD
M AYO
D E
H U R
T A D
O
LO
B
PA
ÍN
H
AC
M
AR
S A I RES
B U EN O
A M É
Z A G
A
PA
A
DOS
R Q
U I J O
EUSKTRAV.
ALD
L UNA
O
P
LA
.V
.
C
.C
ISLETA
BO
TX LA NA
uno
A
am
Un
Z
M.
U
IL L A
ERC
G O R D O N I Z
IA
OB
Fundiciones
Bolueta
PRO G RES O
IN
B
U
LM
A
A
R
A
R
S
G
R
R
AR
E
RE
I b
í o
2 2 D E D I CI EM B RE
ST
O
O
. A
i z
SA N J OSÉ OBRERO
GA
FL
M
IK
F
N
ES
TR
E PA
E R
C I
L L
A
AR
EC CO
HE SM
VA E
RR
IE T
A
A
L
L
I
C
R
S
LZ
M Ú G I CA Y B
FO N T ECH A Y
A . P. B .
E
N
A
R A F
M I
L
A
OR
ZU
A
FL
X
IR
I RA
T
M
S
M
ÍN
A
V
E
ID
Bolueta
Boluet
l
a
A
ND
A
O
J
AD
.F
.L
A
ID
ÑO
ST
S
TR
DR
EN
E
CA
I
G A B D EA
AV
S
OA
S
Mina del Morro
PARQUE
LARREAGABURU
LO
RK
A
GI
OR
GE
ª
J . M
DE
XA
O
T
O
E
SE
LA
C. P.
Bolueta
A
PA
LA
R
L
D
T X
U E T A
A R
A I
A
G
R
A
A
TA
ITA
RIT
X IRRI
TXIRR
T
T O
Colegio
Público
ai
E
A
E
IT
CO C H ER
SAG
ARM
ÍN A G
A
P I
N
Ib
R
ARAN
MA
ZA
RR
O
SAN
U E
T X
T
i
PO
AD
RI
ÁN
TO
LB A
A
G A
N A
M Í
A R
G
S A
SO
A
a
LA
FLORESTA
O
C
ESA
O
O Ñ
O G
B
DE
RA
NA
SA
N
IK
BI
U
A
NT
IA
ECIL
N
O
Renfe Local Train: Abando
Station, line C3.
Stop: Ollargan (300 m away)
SA
mp
GO
E
SA
Ó
U N IÓ
O
D E P RT I V
O
SA
OÑ
BEG
XU
TUT
Ca
TZ A
JARDÍN
O A
R R
D A
O N
M
A
Metro: Bolueta (500 m away)
UB
Preescolar
P
re e scolar
sc
sc
Bolueta
B
o l ue
uett a
A
OÑE
a
JARDÍNES
EMILIANO
M I M ARRIAGA
BRE
S
M. E
RE
R
U
E IT
T
A ER
M CH
CO
Y O
PEL A
S
IÁ N
SA N A DR
GA BIK A
MO NT E
ER ET ZA
M ON TE
IBIGAIN
SA
E
MONT
TA
IN TX OR
A
A
EG
NB
G
í
IA
BOMBER0
DAVID
ZALBIDE
A Z A
P I C
LOS
O
U
AL
NT
CIA
CL
R
SA NA
CA STRE
AG OIT
UA
E
LU IS DE
ZUGAZ
RIC
ALFAU
A. OTIZ
ÑA
ELA
U A
B A R
C
A
A S
L
U N IÓ
ES
A
O M
POST
IR
San
Francisquito
C
K
F I
K A
O
A DA
NI
LOS
TO
E
TOR
U
R
TO O
N LM A
PI E E
T
AN
IA
E
RT
PA
ISE
RR
EN
ID
A
Ntra. Sra.
de Lourdes
y S. Adrián
UI
R
R
Z A
EL
TO
E
AV
EG
R
UZ
A
ÉS
ÑO
Giña
RL
CAMPA
IT
BASARRATE
U
T
DR
OM
DE C
Instituto
IKO
AO
NA
O
GERNIKA
I B E
A O R
I N O S
E S P
Ikastola
Urretxindorra
T Í N
A R
GO
ND
IL
GU
DY
O
BR
EM
By Bilbobus: Line 56 (there are
lots of stops along the Gran Vía
and the Old Quarter) to the end
of the line in La Peña-Abusu
EZ
ÉN
Polideportivo
Polidepor
Polid
olideportiv
por o
de
Txurdinaga
e Tx
Txurdin
dinaga
PLAZA
PL
PLAZ
LAZA
LAZA
LAUAXETA
LAUAXE
LA
AUAX
UAX
XETTA
XE
BO
G
JULIAN
E
AN
N
BASTIÁ
JARDINES
O
SANTIAG
M
LA
XU
C
NO
D E
LA
DE
A
OS
MI
Central
C
Centra
entra
ntra l
ntral
Eléctric
E
éctrica
éctric
Eléctrica
ZURICALDAY
PL.
CONCORDIA
N
JUA
JIM
F.
HOW TO GET THERE
Parque Móvil
Móvi l
C.P.
Luis Briña
a
CIA
O S
R L
C A
R
SE
SA N
T O R
D O C
CO
O
LU
MÁ
U
R T
E
NT IA
MONDO
MA
PI N
A
RI
IS
T
N
U
S
R
S
R U
T I A
ZA
A
O
RE
A
LU
AF
LO
A
o
R
O
A
I
S IN
RR .
A NG U
O LI
EG KO
AT X A
T
U
S
S
I
G
a
Z
BA JA
MI
R
AG
SA
PLAZA
GRUA
TUT
I
A L
COC
HER
A C
ITO
Á R
DE B
ILBA
R E
O
G U
I
TE
b
AV.
SU
IS
T
Colegio Público
Pío Baroja
R
PA
OL LERÍAS
C. P.
Ollerías
O
Ol
Z U
M
A
l
2
A
A
O L L ERÍ A S A LT
AR
LU
C.P. Preescolar
Santutxu
Y
N
Colegio
Berriotxoa
Z
DE
IÓ
Ú B LI C
SAN
ÉN
i
K
C
N
A
Es
R
JARDINES
GERNIKA
Begoña
PL. RVDO.
HNO. SANTIAGO
LASALLE
YO
GO DAL
NA
I
R i
U ur
N
R
X Atx
A Tt. de
I
GU
TE
AS
LL
GA
A
U
E
CA
B
EP
S
S.M.A.
ET
Inst.
t.
Enseñanza
Media
aM
Medi
a
E
I T U
R R
PL.
A
DONOSTIA
T
Z A R A
B A V .
L A
EN
R
PARQUE
Museo Diocesano
de Arte SacroR
A
R
U
IA
UT
E
L URR
L
U
AZ
R
UR
U
IO
UD
S
A
E
E
A
OL
I S
L U
U
G
.
Bilbao
Arte
M
AS
Asilo
Hermanitas
de los Pobres
La
4
I T
AN
FIKA
B O
E
S Q U
3Encarnación
B
8
A N
J U
Colegio Público
Zabala
G
TZ
KUR
G
A N G E L A F I G U E RA
NP
R
LA
SANTUTXU
R
O
ND
O A
PL.
G
IZ
EL PL. LUISU IR ALMERÍA
LU
PL.
ECHEVARRÍA RE
E
CI
ARQUITECTO
E T PL. F.
AN
C
BASTIDA
A
ECHEVARRÍA
MÚSICO O
SA
LB
BO
ARAMBARRI
NT
N A
P
O
.
AR A
TE .
Carmelo
PL. FELIPA
TA
RO
N
LIÁ R
JU LIVA
BO
O M
ELIN
RA
E
A L
E K
ME
e
9
N
S A
CLARA
PER N
Colegio
Virgen
de Begoña
M A
RC
A
SO
A
IRA S
DE M
N A
M I
PLAZA
HARO
SANTA
T. GA
OA
ND
A RE C H
CO N
-
E
ENCARNACIÓN
PL.
PTE.
P
T DE
SAN
A ANTÓN
AN
C A N TA RR
O
IDE
KA
GE
ST OR
EE GE
R
5
d
NA
B
ID
LB
A
RIB
G
FA
RO
PL. SANTOS Instituto
Politécnico
JUANES
AO LA
BILB VIEJA
ZA
D E L
L
6
PARQUE
MIRIBILLA
A
O
OR
T E NA N T IN
T
NS
IM
O
UNA
JAS
PL.
CANTERA
PR
E
O
TAL
T E IZ
ZA
M A RT
FI
JARDINES
SOLOKOETXE
C.P.
M . I BEN García
I Rivero
O
R IA
BA R
AN
AY E D IA R A N
RBE
R
ITU
FIKA
Z A B A
a
PL. TRES
PILARE
P
RE
PILARES
Colegio
Ángeles
Custodios
SORKU Ambulatorio
NDE
San
Antón
í
R
V IT O
A
R
CAN
GAZ
LARR .
A
R
DE
R
7
Colegio H. H. Maristas
BI
O
M
UZ P. ZA
C
T
A R
ÍA
ER
ND
TE
ALE
S T IK
LO
BE
JA
VIE
N.
CAR
E
KAL
REN
BAR
E
KAL
REN NA
BARARRE
B
O TA
P EL
C
N
Ascensores
PI
RI
A CR
O
TA
M U ELL E
ES
RT
CO
O Ñ AZ
FIKA
M. ICIAR
S T
E G I
IBIDE
ITURR
PL.
ZUMÁRRAGA
TX E
OKOE
Mercado
Museo
use de MART ZANA
Reproducciones
odu
u
Artísticas
tístt
A
BE G
U
PRIM
E
B
I
S
M
UR
DE L
.
E
SO
A.
.
E. C
C . J.
C
D EO DE
PRIT
M
I
R
Colegio
Hijas de
la Cruz
C. S.
S
AM A
LO
A
D
A V
E N
I D
A
PL. JOSÉ
MARÍA
MAKUA
M
Sta.
Cruz
C. P.
Santos
Juanes
PA
B
IT
V.
TR
C
R
B. A
Ñ
PA
PL. Catedral
SANTIAGO
I
LA D E
TA L TO
B ALEPA N
M.
MUÑ OZ
.A
C. L.
.M
.
R
TA
ÍA
Clínica
Virgen
Blanca
DIRI
.
.S
B.
ER
M EN
.
O
CO
DI
DU
BA
C. P. Maestra
Isabel Gallego
de Gorría
.E
C
I
IK
ES
ER
PL. AR
A
JARO
DE ARANA
ME
Inst. F. P.
Eskurtze
LI
A
R
N
Y
IR
E
PA
U
IÓ
A
AV
.B
K
A
D
IE
R
12
L
A
C
.
PC
LA
BA
ZA
TERIO
IÑO
LL
RR
PL.
CORAZÓN
DE MARÍA
LAG
GIM
O
KIRIK
E
AR M I
RI LIO
ET
A
R
MB
O
.
CE
A
NA
ROA
TA
G
BAIO
ZUBE
BA
A
O
ER
10
LA
AV
N
A
S. Luis
Beltrán
PL. ALTO
SOMOSIERRA
R
A
BEG
DE
EN
TR
E
R
RO
I
C.
CO N C E PC I Ó N
XE
ONAS
RG A RA
K
M . LA
MERC
ED
E
L.
IRUARRIZ.
A
D
A
T.
UE
Ó
N
RA
S
TER
Z
MON
BE
.
S
PTE. DE R
LA RIBERA
CAN
11
N
I
BE
A
N. S.
AV
C
.B
R
R IA
V IT O
CO
O
PL.
URIZAR
C. P. M
Torre
rre Urizar
T.Camacho
Cam
m
A
M.
B
AL
E
N
A
Gobierno
Militar
ES
R E YL IC O S
Ó
C AT
S
PLAZA
NUEVA
G.
ÚS
DE L A
I
IC
UR
M A
A
R
TI
O
RRE
DE
AL
EN
D
A
U
RO
U
ZU
I
GO
L
TR
E
K
GI
R
U
R
DI
BA
B
N
Asilo
Conde de
Aresti
Colegio
Amor
Misericordioso
R
26
2
E
X
AR
A REN
OTE
MEN
R
PA
DE
MA RÍA
PTE. DE LAE
MERCED
S
C.
B
U
G
VIR
C. P.
Iturribide
DE
PLAZA
BI
RI
TOMÁS
UR
PL. MIGUELMEABE I T
DE UNAMUNO Ascensor
ZUMÁRRAGA
PL.
S.N.
F
IN T
.
AV
.
PS
DE L
PL. DR.
FLEMING
A
O
RR
NI
LA
RE
E
IA
OR O
CT AS
VI E L
Mª RIB
U
D
EN
DI
EN
A V
AM
D
F
13
TO
A
L
AN
R
I D
E
10
ARN
O
AZA
PU
R
R
VA
M . S IER
SC
O
U
A
La
Merced
A
S
ES
RT
CO
SAL
CI
IKIÑ
R
EV
F
J
KIR
R
E
ELL
A
IZ A
RE
S
IB
A
I
I
E
A
I
RIP
RR
AG
R
S
R
SA N TIA GO BROU A RD
O
A
ESTRADA
L
KIO
UR
D
ÍN
C ÍA
G
ALE
TA
VIS ÜERO
E
L
LA
ZA
E
PARQUE
AMETZOLA
D
PA
J
A
AN
SO
LA
M.
D
PL.
AMETZOLA
JA J E S
GRAL.
CASTILLO
11
AM
P. P
P..
Franciscanos
anc
ncis
nc
c
Plaza de
Toros de
Vista Alegre
EN
IL
O
O
GAR
A
AL
UR
G
D
L
R
RTOLA
H
EC
EG
O
N
R
A
MA
IT U
C
R
R
RE
EL
Z
E
E
AS
PIC
.
IR
Y
FR
S
LÁ TA
CO R
NI LCO
A
P. M. A
P
N
AM
U
M
ÍE
G
A.
GA
ZT
P
AÑ
ZU INTO
ET
BIA RE
A
UR S
RE
OL
Escuela
ITE
Ingeniería
Convento de
UE
AG
A
D
G
Pabellón
de
Deportes
EL
Técnica Industrial
AB
FE
LO
RR
OC
A RR
PL. GRAL. A L
IL
ZO
LATORRE
LA
DO
Q
IL
L
TO
D
U
B
IX
.
A
AL
V
ÁV
A
C
A
R
CA
A
T
RÍA
R
L
E
AR
O
RI
D
T
U
O
N
AR
IP
N
I L
E
A
AB
O
PL.
LA CASILLA
O
N
OL
EJA
A
C.P. Félix
Serrano
M
Cristo
Rey
OR
EN
V
LL
Z
U
M
Ntra. Sra.
del Pilar
M.
A
Í
NU
R
NA
16
PL
PL.
ZABÁLBURU
AL
E
PL. B.
ECHÁNIZ
Í A
E
RE
LE
PL.
S. FCO.
JAVIER
15
A
Ñ
A
G
IR
R
A
L
G
GU
A
U
N
R
E
E
L
S
UHA GÓN
RA
TIA
L
N
Z
A
Ó
D
S A N
AR
RU
E
A
L
A
ST
CO
S.
M A M É S
IP
UR
D
M
A
G
VA
L
R
A
L
EZ
20
LO
S. Ignacio Casco Viejo
SO
BI
SA NTA
C. P.
Mugica
LAMANA
San
Francisco
de Asís
O
I O
TA
LE
VA
o
HA
gi
EC
le
L
AR
E
Co
Colegio
Mayor
Abando
A.
DE
O
C
R
L
O
B
Í V
ALC ALD E
ND
P
AM
S.
Nicolás
Teatro
Arriaga
Estación
de Abando
(Norte)
AL
ZA
24
21 22
M
NA
A
AL
25
23
A
O
Ntra. Sra.
del Carmen
FE
C. P.
Á
RN
C
L
G
pital
Roja
KA
T
A
E
14
A M E D A
A L
PL.
INDAUTXU
R
R
E
R
I
U
Q
J
RE
E
KO
XE
EP
PL.
ARRIAGA
Est. de
Santander
O
M
A
L
A
N
A
E
E
I R
ER
A
D
E
N
LD
U
PL.
ARRIQUIBAR
Alhóndiga
O
E
CA
G
R
U
TX
G
DI
A
E
G
Colegio
Ntra. Sra.
del Pilar
PLAZA
BIZKAIA
177
NZ
Ascensor
DE
PTE. DEL
A ENA L
ARE
ARENAL
AN
ZA
R
R
N
E
I
TX
TO
R
rten T E
don N D
a
ON
Instituto
A
E. Media
E
Correos
Un scuela
ive
E
rs
Em stud it.
EU
p
io
SK
AL
E resariasle
DU
s
L
N
C
O
D
A
E
. R
R
IR
AM
A
U
O
TR
ES
MA RCÍA
GA ERO
RIV
C
I
L
C
BE
Be
A.
RA
Bolsa
P. LOJ END IO
O
UI
S
ALA
LE R AY
LU
OA
.
UT
ER
U
AN
ÍG
AL
G
I P
A
NO
DR
UI
RL
DIP
U
LP
O
RO
AR
T.
IM
RO
.
AR
DR HÚC
AC
EG
TA
DE
G
M.
OQ
ARD
VD
PE
RRA
N AVA
19
18
AS
N
S
X
O
ST
OA
IÓ
UÉ
Á
8
AR
PL. PEDRO
EGUILLOR
EZ
CA NC IL
E
VIL LA RÍA
PLAZA
CIRCULAR
RÁ
RL
C
TA
RQ
BI
IAS
Hacienda
San
Fernando
BE
TA
PU
MA
E
O
ET
C IP
R.
AS
DI
D
AR
IB A
P.
S
L
L
Diputación
PLAZA
MOYÚA
Subdelegación
del Gobierno
E
NT
O
A
N
CE
R
C
E
TE
O
E
E
RR
LÓ
EÁ
DE
VI
H
R
UI
PL.
RR
A N
O S. JOSÉ L A
P
Ó
Z
E
A
ES
UI
O
R
A
H
E
D
A
M
S
E
D
E
L
Justicia
EG
JARDINES
ÁT
ALBIA
RE
R
LA
N
LÓ
CO
O
BA
Mallona
EB
A L Ayunt.
Aduana
I.
PLAZA
VENEZUELA
PR
ÍN
IL
BPalacio
de
DE
PL. S.
VICENTE
R
D
A
AG
San
José
CO
PL.
ENSANCHE
PL.
JADO
I
GU
San
Vicente
Mártir
DE
A
Club
Deportivo
R
E
D
E
H
A
O Comandancia
A
de Marina
NAmbulatorio
EZ
ÁÑ
Mercado
IB
E
H
UR
N
E
N
Z
O
ISP A
OB UET
OR
M
O
A
E
RT
A
IBIT
SA
S
A
Colegio
Calasancio
TE
M
AC
PL. PÍO
NERB IOI BAROJA
UR
O
L
R
U
J
A
G
I A
A
R
R
E
U
IB IT
AR
Palacio
Ibaigane
ÚA
NC
AI
RR
BA
U R I B I T A R T E
U
R
M A M P RIB I TA
A
RT E
E
D S DE
A
UR
A
R
A
S
R
E
S
PTE. DELE N D
AYUNTAMIENTO E J
MU
E
1
L
I
D
o
a
DA
AL
TA
OE
. E
RR
AV RT
BA
T R I TA
IB
H
A
N
U
b
TR
P A S
E O
C.P. Miguel
de Cervantes
l
ZUBIZURI
M . AG
UI
de
ERNESTO
ERKOREKA
ÑA
R
A
BIL
i
Campos
Ayuntamiento PL.
Cementerio
de Begoña
RIT
V O L A N T Í N
B
QU
IA
ARD O
GU LO NS
B. A
A
EP
O D
e
I N G L E S E S
L O S
Tanatorio
AN
IN T
ADE
d
C A M P O
NA
a
B
OL
I
Colegio
Esclavas
I
í
R
V I L L A
L
P A S E O
sores
de Epalza
L A
O
C.P.
D E
IB
H U E R T A S
PL.
L
LA SALVE
T
GU IZA M ÓN
S
Heritage MERCHANDISE
L
E
K
A
N
D
A
Fer
C
roc
arr
Illumbe
A
R
R
il a
Azb
a
E
rre
n
T
E
R
A
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
01
EL PONTÓN
The walk begins at the old flour factory
El Pontón (1). Only the bakery building
remains and it has been converted into
an ikastola (a school where classes are
taught exclusively in Basque). It was built
in 1793 to ensure the supply of flour to
Bilbao and, with its layout and division of
labour and work areas, is considered the
first significant industrial building in the
Basque Country.
The fact that it looks like a monastery or
a prison can attributed to both the lack of
previous references and to the custom of
setting new industries in buildings with a
style which the inhabitants were familiar
with.
El Pontón nowaday.
10
The work is a building of Cultural Interest
and is part of the neoclassical vanguard
in Bizkaia. The building is a monumental
cubic mass, with a four-pitched roof
adapted to the slope of the terrain, with
four floors on its south-eastern side and
three on the other.
« The flour mill
built by Eduardo
Coste y Vildósola,
located next to the
ruined building
of the bakery.
Mineral kilns in
the foreground.
Early twentieth
century.
02
ALONG THE LOS CAÑOS
ROUTE TO THE RIBERA
MARKET
End of the Los Caños walk
with panels explaining the
history of the area.
ROUTE 2 KM
To get back to the historic centre of Bilbao, we suggest a
walk along this romantic path, which carried the aqueduct
supplying water to Bilbao from 1523 until it was closed in
1933.
Along the way, it is possible to imagine the rushing water
where the river narrows and swirls, and the human ingenuity
that used mills to convert the water into a driving force for the
pre-industrial businesses of the city (mills, foundries, fulling
mills and glass and textile factories).
Interestingly, neither this area nor the pre-industrial sectors
located here played any part in the industrialisation of Bilbao
and its surroundings.
On the opposite bank you have a view of the La Peña/Abusu
area that in its current state is the result of developmentalist
architecture designed to accommodate the waves of
immigrants who arrived in the 1950s and 1960s to meet the
demand for industrial
labour. As in this
Old island of San Cristóbal,
neighbourhood, they
which disappeared after the
generally settled in
1983 floods, and mines on the
areas that had been
slopes. 1930s.
sparsely used until
then.
At the first curve of the
river was the island of
San Cristóbal, where
originally there were
tanneries, which were
then replaced by a
pumping station and
a small hydroelectric
power station.
At the end of this
section there are some
panels explaining the
history of this part of
the river.
11
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
Manuel María de Smith
(1879-1956)
At the end of this walk you will
see the old Ollerías school (2).
Pedro Ispizua
(1895-1976)
Other works:
• Garden City district
(Ciudad Jardín) in
Bilbao (1922).
• Bandstand on the
Arenal (1927).
• Atxuri School (1928)
(p. 13).
• Ribera Market (1929)
(p. 14).
• Various houses in
Bilbao.
• Luis Briñas school
(1933).
• The Tiger building
(1943-1947) (p. 36).
• San Felicísimo church
(1959).
12
Designed by Pedro Ispizua in
1922, it is a model of regionalist
architecture. At the bottom of
the hill there are two even more
striking examples of the most
famous architects of this era:
Ispizua himself (García Rivero
school) and Manuel María de
Smith (Atxuri Station).
At the bottom of this street on
your right is La Encarnación
square (3), where you will
see the church and convent
of that name. They date from
the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries and the old convent
now houses the Museum of
Sacred Art of Bizkaia (www.
eleizmuseoa.com). The square
has been partly pedestrianised
and has been turned into a very
pleasant spot.
Other works:
• Workers’ houses in
Barakaldo (1916).
• Coromina Industrial
chemical factory
(1923) (p. 41).
• Hotel Carlton (1926) in
the Plaza Moyúa.
• Many grand houses in
Getxo (p. 104).
• The Sota Building.
Bilbao (1924).
• Offices of Altos Hornos
steelworks (1911 and
1946) and La Naval.
Ollerías School.
La Encarnación Square.
ATXURI STATION
Designed by Manuel María de Smith in the regionalist
style (4), it was built in 1913 to replace the old terminal
of 1882. It is the terminal station of two lines, leading to
Durango/San Sebastián on one branch line and Gernika/
Bermeo on the other.
At the entrance to the station, above the name of the
former operator, Ferrocarriles Vascongados (Basque
Railways), there is a set of shields combining the coat of
arms of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa, entwined with the arms of
Alava and the chains from the coat of arms of Navarra.
The neighbourhood where it is located, Atxuri (white
rock in Basque), was a suburb beyond the city walls in
medieval Bilbao.
Next to the station is the García Rivero Public School
(5) also designed by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12) ) in the
regionalist style in 1928.
Opposite is the imposing building which was built in
1835 along neoclassical lines and which housed the
Hospital of Bilbao until 1908 (6). It boasted the most
advanced hygiene of the time and went by the motto
“You who are sick and groan in poverty here shall find
attentive care”. Since then, it has been used for the
teaching of different specialties, cohabiting with the
Museum of Fine Arts between 1914 and 1945.
Towers of the García
Rivero School and
Atxuri station. Both
fall within the neoregionalist movement.
1910. Above the Los Canos walk and Atxuri was the
mining area of El Morro mine, in operation until 1970.
The river full of iron ore wharves in 1890.
1930s. First Civil Hospital of Bilbao, later the School
of Arts and Trades and the Fine Arts Museum.
13
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
LA RIBERA MARKET
Continuing along the same street, we pass the Bridge of San Antón and its Church
which was for centuries the entrance to the medieval city, and we found ourselves
behind the Ribera Market (7). With 10,000 m2 dedicated to fresh produce, it is the
largest covered market in Europe.
It is also by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12), opened in 1929 and now recently restored. The
project, which sought functionality, is based on open spaces without internal columns,
with good ventilation to prevent undesirable smells and with careful natural lighting.
Translucent materials are used to allow daylight to flood down from one floor to
another and there are large windows, lattices and rosettes. All this, together with the
decoration of its facades, forms an eclectic Art Deco style.
The site it occupies was for centuries the heart of the town and came to replace the
roadside stalls that sold produce to the citizens.
03
FROM THE AREA
OF THE MINES
TO HARINO
PANADERA
Old Market Square (1874).
(THE BEST CONSERVED
INDUSTRIAL AREA)
ROUTE 2 KM
THE DISTRICT OF THE MINES
AND THE SAILORS
This is the district located on the shore
opposite the Ribera Market; it is known
by the name of Old Bilbao (Bilbao La
Vieja) to distinguish it from the historic
Old Quarter (Casco Viejo), also called the
Seven Streets (Siete Calles).
14
In the Middle Ages, this is where the
Castilian wool that was later sold in
Bilbao was delivered (bear in mind that
the original city was, exclusively, the
historical centre behind you) dating from
its recognition as a town in 1300. From
the 17th century onwards, important
iron mining groups coexisted here
with residential suburbs, which meant
significant levels of overcrowding and
consequent serious health problems.
You can see where the multicoloured
facades and balconies that were sailors’
homes and the commercial premises
of the original warehouses have been
converted into shops and entertainment
venues.
The Market can be visited during business hours.
We cross to this side of the river by the
historic bridge of San Antón (next to the
market by the church) to go in search of
these mining memories.
15
1877,
replacing the
old medieval
bridge with
the current
one.
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
Ricardo Bastida
(1878 - 1953)
In 1923 he proposed
an expansion plan for
Bilbao to the river mouth
at the Abra, a visionary
project that would
result in the current
metropolitan area.
Other works:
“Casa-Cuna” Daycare House.
16
The kiln of
the San Luis
mine before
restoration.
• Municipal wine
warehouse (1909)
(p. 21).
• Indautxu, Ribera and
Iturribide schools
(1918).
• Zakoneta Desinfection
Centre (1918) (p. 52).
• Torre Urizar Municipal
Housing (1919-1922).
• Central Secondary
School (1927).
• Deusto Bridge (1936)
(p. 35).
• Restoration of
Santiago Cathedral
(1952).
After crossing the bridge we are at the
beginning of the street where you can
see the old Bilbao “Casa cuna” Daycare
House (8) of 1916, which answered
the pressing social need for improved
sanitation and hygiene. From a design
by Ricardo Bastida, it has obvious
reminiscences of Catalan Modernism.
Above the doorway of the front door sits a
sculpture of Charity, referring to the use
of the building.
CALCINATION KILN FROM THE
SAN LUIS MINE
We continue walking down Claudio
Gallastegui street and take the second
turning on the right (Olano street). Here
we find Saralegi square, where one of
the many iron ore calcinations kilns of the
area stands, imposing and restored (9).
The mines were located in the 19th and
20th centuries in the nearby hills, and
in these intermediate areas there were
infrastructures for treating the ore
before loading it onto barges that moved
the cargo to larger vessels moored at the
mouth of the river.
This restored kiln was for the calcination
of the extracted ore, to convert it into
a purer product for transport and
subsequent handling.
The building belonged to the San Luis
mine, which was
abandoned in 1960
and which, along
with Malaespera
and La Abandonada
mines on this hill,
and the El Morro
mine on the opposite
side of the river,
contained the
largest and best
iron deposits of
the area after the
mining enclaves of
Ortuella, Sopuerta
and Somorrostro.
San Luis mine (1965).
VANGUARD
ARCHITECTURE
We walk up Tres
Pilares street along
the side of the square
to connect with San
Francisco street and
then walk down Conde
Mirasol, street to the
Muelle de la Merced.
At No. 3 is old La Ceres
flour factory (10).
This was the first
building in Spain to
be built of reinforced
concrete using the
Hennebique system
(1899-1900) and
marks a technological
milestone in Basque
industrial architecture,
which makes it a
building of Cultural
Interest. It was finished in 1900 and was built in a
record time of 7 months by the young civil engineer
Ramón Grotta and the architect Federico Ugalde (p.
28). Originally it had 6 floors; when it was restored, the
facade was kept and the interior was converted into
flats.
The Ceres building restored
and converted into flats,
with the deconsecrated
church of La Merced in the
background.
« It was built in a single
year.
Bodegas Bilbaínas Wine Warehouse building.
Continuing along the road, we pass in front of the
historic church of La Merced, now deconsecrated
and used for musical and artistic events. Before
reaching Bailén street, on the right we can see another
remarkable set of facades of residential buildings and
offices facing the river.
In Bailén street we turn left to rejoin San Francisco
street. At the beginning of this section on the right hand
side there is a long wall that hides the railway line. At
the end of this wall, we see a street of agribusiness
warehouses built between the 1930s and 1950s; they
had a logistically unparalleled location for using the
railway in their business operations.
Their current state of dereliction will be changed by
the final project for covering over the current shunting
yard, but they are a remarkable set of facilities with high
iconic value in what became one of the industrial areas
with the most character in Bilbao. At the head of this
street is the unique building of the Bodegas Bilbaínas
Wine Warehouse (11), rebuilt in 1941.
Some of the
warehouses on
Particular del
Norte street on
the side facing the
railway line.
17
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
Historical
furnishings inside
the old factory,
now converted into
municipal offices.
A GREAT COMPANY AND ITS
NEIGHBOURHOOD
When you reach Zabalburu square, walk up one of its
side streets, Pedro Martínez Artola, to connect with
the next street, Irala street. When you get to Reyes
Católicos street, turn left.
On the first corner of the street (Kirikiño) you will see
a square with facades covered in murals. This point
shows the widespread concept of ‘cheap houses’ both
in the city and in Bizkaia. This was a style of building
backed by many kinds of cooperatives and by companies
themselves, who took advantage of the aid and beneficial
concessions provided by laws in the early 20th century.
You are in the city district of Irala (12), which is the area
that has the most buildings of this type of architecture.
In fact, these are houses built by the flour and breadmaking company Harino Panadera, founded by Juan
José Irala, from whom the district gets its name. They
are the work of Federico Ugalde (p. 28) between 1905
18 and 1917, and a satellite town was created with 565
houses in different styles (compact blocks of flats,
terraced houses divided into flats, detached houses
- single, double or quadruple). But they all had a
very English style, with the principles of “sun, air and
water”, in line with the hygienist movement in vogue
in Europe which advocated offering healthy housing to
employees and workers.
At this junction between Kirikiño street and Reyes
Católicos street you can see a detached house and
terraced houses with facades that have been restored
in many different colours. If you walk to the top of
Kirikiño street and return to the same point by coming
down Baiona street and Urizar street, you can see
other types of building in this little district. We now head
to the industrial heart of the neighbourhood. Returning
to Irala street, we turn into Ugalde street and see the
bullring below us. We take the first turning on the left
and we find the finest restored industrial building in
Bilbao: Harino Panadera (13). It is an old flour factory
which closed in 1992, built entirely of concrete in 1901,
another early application of this material.
Of the stunning original manufacturing complex, only
the flour factory building has stood the test of time (it
was declared a Monumental Complex in 2005), as well
as a spectacular display of historical machines inside
the building, which currently houses municipal offices.
Colourful facades of buildings with
a clear English style.
19
Different types
of houses in the
largest property
boom of the
period.
Advertisement from 1918, in which the original
factory complex can be seen.
Harino Panadera flour mill building.
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
Amézola park and
residential area.
04
NEW AREAS/
CLASSICAL ENSANCHE/
OLD QUARTER
ROUTE 2.3 KM
Below the Harino Panadera factory, you must walk through the
new Amézola park and residential complex towards the Azkuna
Centre - Alhóndiga (14); this is a cultural centre renovated by
Philippe Stark in 2010 from an old wine warehouse designed by
Ricardo Bastida (p. 16) between 1905 and 1909. As one of the icons
of the new Bilbao, this is probably one of the essential sights of
the city that you will already have seen. After visiting it, walk along
Fernández del Campo street to Hurtado de Amézaga street.
Along this route, on the corner of General Concha street, you
will see a building that is the current headquarters of the energy
company EDP. Completely renovated inside, it has kept the facade
of its original occupant: the Vizcaíno Pharmaceutical Centre (15).
Built in 1926 by architect Tomás Bilbao and Hilario Imaz, it
initially had 2 floors which were extended to 7 current ones in
the 1940s. Set up by Bizkaian pharmacists, it centralised the
distribution of medicine. Of special interest on the building are
the original stone signs with the company name in both streets.
20
21
You are in the middle of the Ensanche, the enlargement of the
original city. It is one of the most interesting in Spain; in fact, it
has lasted perfectly throughout the 20th century and as such, it is
often said to be the best architectural work in Bilbao. Severino
Achúcarro (p. 25), Pablo Alzola (p. 28) and Ernesto Hoffmeyer
designed it in 1876, and this first extension presents an
interesting layout, with the Gran Vía as the main artery forming
a longitudinal axis which leads to the Casco Viejo via the Arenal
bridge, punctuated by three squares (the Plaza Circular, the
Plaza Elíptica and the Plaza de Sagrado Corazón).
Vizcaíno Pharmaceutical Centre.
The building of the Ensanche area in Abando was a process
that was delayed for decades, which meant they were able to
learn from the example of Ildefonso Cerdá in Barcelona, with
its layout and its street blocks with bevelled finishing. It was the
response to new needs arising from the fact that the population
had tripled in just 20 years and the Casco Viejo old quarter
was insufficient to house them. With its construction, Bilbao
definitively jumped onto the left bank of the river and developed
what is now considered to be the centre of the city.
Atrium of the Azkuna Centre Alhóndiga now and a photo of the
interior in 1932.
Industry
Walk 1
In the Plaza Circular, we see the
BBVA tower (18). 88 m high, in 1969
it replaced the former headquarters
building of the Bank of Vizcaya, which
merged with the Bank of Bilbao to make
the current international bank.
MINES, MILLS AND
FROM HURTADO DE AMEZAGA
TO THE ARENAL
Next to the station is the building that
now houses the tourist office (19).
We walk down Fernández del Campo street
to Hurtado Amézaga street.
Walking down to the Plaza Circular,
you will see the start of the forecourt
of Abando railway station. Right on the
corner of García Salazar street the Izarra
locomotive is on display (16), a jewel in
the railway heritage crown, as it was one
of the first locomotives to come to Bilbao
in 1863.
Before going down to the Plaza Circular,
we recommend walking along Bertendona
street to look at the magnificent
modernist facade of the Campos Elíseos
theatre (17). Opened in 1902, it was the
result of collaboration between architect
22 Alfredo Acebal and the French designer
Jean Batiste Darroquy.
The decor and forms of its facade made
people call it “The Chocolate Box”.
Jean Batiste Darroquy
Major French
architect involved
in the introduction
of modernism to
the Basque Country
between the late
nineteenth and early
twentieth century.
Other works:
• Montero House (1904).
The Campos
Elíseos Theatre
in 1902. It is
one of the best
examples of
modernist
architecture.
The Izarra railway
engine, one of the
locomotives that
brought the first train
to Bilbao in 1863.
It was the work of Severino Achúcarro
(p. 25), and opened in 1893 as a Hotel
that was linked by a direct walkway to
the station. In 1949 it became a bank
office prior to its current use.
Replacement
of the former
headquarters
of the Bank of
Vizcaya with the
modern tower
block. 1968.
Hotel Terminus (now the tourist office)
and the old Abando station. 1920.
23
Industry
Walk 1
Between the two stations you will find
the building of the Stock Exchange by
Enrique Epalza (p. 28),from 1905.
MINES, MILLS AND
The Santander station, also known
as La Concordia (21), is the station
for the narrow gauge railways (FEVE)
connecting Bilbao with other capitals on
the Cantabrian coast and the north of
the peninsula, in the latter case taking
advantage of the train line that brought
coal from inland mining areas to the
Bizkaia steelworks.
In the Plaza Circular is the access to
Abando station (20). In 1948, the current
station replaced the previous one, which
had been built in 1864. The main facade
avoids railway themes, presenting a
monumental, classical image with an
eclectic mix of pediments, blind arches or
false pillars, which harmonized with the
surrounding buildings.
Once inside, go to the upper level to look
at the large stained-glass window that
welcomes travellers arriving in the city.
This is an interesting point regarding
practices at that time; the processing
companies were usually located in the
coalfields and not the iron mines because
of the relative cost of transport between
the two materials.
In Bilbao, it was exactly the opposite,
because they had the raw material iron
next to a river, estuary and a port with
superb natural shelter.
The station is modernist in style and was
designed in 1902 by Severino Achúcarro. In
the inner atrium we can see the application
of new construction technologies with the
use of steel.
When you go out into Bailén street, you
can see the facade with its large rose
window, which is considered one of
the most genuine legacies of the Belle
Epoque.
Back in the lower central hall, turn right
and go out and down the stairs at the
back of the station, and here you will be
able to cross to the back entrance of the
other, almost adjoining, station.
Severino Achúcarro
(1841-1910)
Major figure in Basque
architecture in its
evolution towards
modernism and Art
Nouveau.
Other works:
• Bidebarrieta Library,
originally the liberal
club El Sitio (1890).
• Co-author of the
Bilbao Ensanche
expansion Plan (1876).
• Bank of Bilbao
building in San Nicolás
(1898) (p. 29).
Abando station. 1864.
24
25
301-piece
stained glass
window from
1948 in the upper
level of Abando
station. It shows
mining, industry
and local
customs from
Bizkaia’s past.
Facade and interior of the station (in
riveted steel) of La Concordia.
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
Banks of the river in the 1920s, with the La
Bilbaína club and the wooden entrance to
the old train station to Portugalete (by Pablo
Alzola, p. 28). The high density of ships is due
to the fact that Bilbao was a working port until
the 1970s.
Outside the station, we can see the
skyscraper that stands on the other side
of Bailén street facing the river (22). By
Manuel Galíndez, at 43 metres tall it was
the tallest building in Bilbao from its
construction in 1943 until 1969, when the
BBVA skyscraper in the Plaza Circular
was built.
On the corner of Navarra street is the
building that houses the La Bilbaína
Social Club (23). Both because of its
appearance and its function, it is another
expression of the effect that English
society had on society in Bilbao; a
relationship backed by intense business
contacts that means that Bilbao, even
today, is considered the city with the
most British air in Spain.
The building of La Bilbaína erected in
1913 was the work of Emiliano Amann
and is the second headquarters of
a club created in 1839. Since then it
has opened its doors to high society
celebrations and events of the city and
surrounding areas.
Apart from other facilities for members,
of interest are its historical collections
of newspapers and magazines and its
library, its period furniture and its chess
room, which is now considered the
oldest in Europe.
In style, the inside of the building
follows the English architecture of such
clubs, with a spiral entry staircase,
topped by a skylight above, resting on
columns.
Emiliano Amann
(1882 - 1942)
Other works:
• Abra Sailing Club,
Getxo (1909).
• Nuestra Señora del
Carmen church in
Neguri (1910) Getxo.
• Building of La
Comercial at Deusto
University (1921) (p. 34).
• Solokoetxe lift (1931).
• Group of council
houses Solokoetxe II
(1933).
• Salesiano school in
Deusto (1939).
Manuel Galíndez
(1892-1980)
One of the major
figures of the rationalist
movement.
26
Some works:
• Bank of Vizcaya in
Barcelona and Madrid
(1930).
• La Equitativa building.
Bilbao (1934).
• La Aurora insurance
building. Bilbao (1935).
• Bailén skyscraper
(1940).
• Aznar shipbuilders
building. Bilbao (1943).
• Houses in Getxo (1945).
The Bailén skyscraper tops things off with
an imposing facade of office buildings.
27
Industry
Walk 1
MINES, MILLS AND
1895. The old Isabel II
Bridge and the Arriaga
theatre. Note the ‘blood
tram’, so-called because
it was pulled by horses.
Just over the Arenal bridge, you will
see on your right the famous Arriaga
Theatre (24), which opened in 1890. It
was designed by the architect Joaquín de
Rucoba (architect also of the City Hall)
and replaced an earlier one that had
stood there since 1833.
Inspired by the Paris Opera House and
other central European theatres, it
happens to have a curved facade not only
because of neo-baroque aesthetics, but
also to solve an urban planning hygiene
concern about the end of Bidebarrieta
street, which it is aligned with.
After a fire in 1914, it was rebuilt by
architect Federico de Ugalde, with a
project that made it bigger and safer.
Passing through the Arenal gardens,
you see the bandstand (25), designed by
Pedro Izpizua (p.12) in 1923. This highly
expressive construction is made up of the
space devoted to the music stage above
and the bar that is located underneath.
28
Federico de Ugalde
(1873 - 1968)
Enrique Epalza y
Chafreau (1860 - 1933)
Pioneering architect in
the use of reinforced
concrete.
Some works:
Some works:
• La Ceres building
(1900) (p. 17).
• Second Ensanche
project (1905).
• Irala-Barri district
(1905-1917) (p. 18).
• Reconstruction of the
Arriaga Theatre (1919).
• Molinos Vascos
building (1920) (p. 48).
• Vista Alegre Cemetery
(1896- 1899).
• Basurto Hospital
(1898-1908) (p. 51).
• Building at Uribitarte,
No.3 (1902).
When he was the
municipal architect
(1896-1903), he wrote
the first Project to
extend the Ensanche
(along with Alzola and
Hoffmeyer), which was
not carried out.
Pablo Alzola (1841-1912)
Other works:
• First Ensanche Project
(1876).
• La Orconera Mining
Railway (1876)(p. 63).
• New San Antón bridge
(1877) (p. 15). Bilbao
and Portugalete
stations and the lines
between the two urban
areas (1888) (p. 95).
Before visiting the attractions of
the Old Quarter (also known as the
Seven Streets, as this is the number
of roads that the original, small
Bilbao had), and once you have
crossed the Arenal gardens (the
name ‘arenal’ referred to the sand
on what was once a beach in the
medieval Bilbao), walk to the side
of St. Nicholas’ church and stop in
front of the original building of the
Bank of Bilbao (26), one of the two
parent companies of the merger with
the Bank of Vizcaya and later with
Argentaria to form the international
financial entity BBVA.
Although the Bank of Bilbao began
operating in 1857, this office was
opened in 1868; designed by the
French architect Lavalle, it was
expanded two decades later in
two phases by Enrique Epalza and
Severino de Achúcarro (p.25). It has
a magnificent banking hall accessible
when there are exhibitions open
to the public; the facade presents
an eclectic exercise in the “Beaux
Arts” style and has a neoclassical
compositional touch.
Today it remains the headquarters
of the BBVA and banking operations
were only moved in 1957 to the
magnificent building at Gran Vía 12.
And now to enjoy the attractions
of the Casco Viejo old quarter,
which probably appear in any other
publication.
29
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
*
IN THE BOTXO
*Popular name by which the City of Bilbao is known, because of its position in a ‘hole’, surrounded by mountains.
ASSESSMENT
ROUTE
8.4 km
INTERESTING
“O Mines, which have made the River!
O River, which has made Bilbao!”
(Juan Antonio de Zunzunegui)
01_From the temple of knowledge to the old shipyards
02_Industrial architecture of the twentieth century
03_Back to Bilbao
Walk 2
Industry
61
DO
RE
AR
AZ
M
A
L
I
C
R
E
ITU
BA RRIRR
ÍA
E S T. V
ENTAS
I
ES
M A S TRADA
US
TE
G
20
RI
OR
ZU
ÍN
LA
ND
. F.
D
O
EL
AL
ZO
FE
Técnica
RR
OC
ARR
I
LA
31
DO
Albergue
Elexabarri
CT
OR
T
10
Convento de
Capuchinos
JA
D
RD
ÍN
EMP
ÍA Z
ALFREDO
KRAUS
PLAZA
T
TA
BAS
URTU
DR
CA
M
L
E
H
C
N
SA
.
R
.
S
SA
TO
VE
N
IN
O
AM
81
Z
N
E
V
CN O
.
E
QU
DI
A
G
A
E
B
AL
S
A
Z
A
M
V
A
P
TA
SO
DE
e
d
ER
.
ELL
MU
a
í
R
A
E
I
V
A
C
I
A
L
O
E
L
L
E
ED
H
C
N
O
A
T
B
A
A
D
I
N
E
i
B
D
I
N
A
G
R
O
M
T
B
A
R
E
B
U
M
ECH COS
E VA M E
R R IE
M
A
C
U
R
R
U
IEJ
A
AV
TIC
BO
ERA
o
R
E
SA
P
RIB
A
J
E
I
V
A
C
O
A
R
E
I B
Z
U
GR
LO
IP
G
A
AZ
EN
M U
E L
LE
A
E
D
S
A
L
B
R
K
E
O
NT OÑ A
AN O
DE
R
O
U
T
O
E
D
10
ENT
XE
ET
RA
V E
S ÍA
G
OR
A
U
TA
N
TZ
G
A
S
S
AG
SA LC ED
.
BA
ENTRAMBASAGUA
PL. GRAL.
LATORRE
R
NO VIA
V
LA
UG
Colegio Público
Elexabarri
EG
ST
U
AS
M
A
AD
TR
ES
TOLO
SA
I
RT
SU
BA
t
A
BL
O
VIL
e
A
A
ON
CU
LE
O
N T
D
A.
GA
ZT
P
ZU IN TO AÑET
A
B IA RE
UR S
RE
OL
E
IT
E
Ing
3 O
MIL
R
b
NK
U
CA
C
E V
A R
IS
A
VIS T
A
I
R
A
D
A
M
A
B
A
S
R
A
G
R
A
B
D
S
A
AR
EV
A
CU
LO TR
S AV
ES . D
PIN E
OS
I
U
D
A
R
I
E
J
A
G
IA
R
A
D
A
M
E
X
T
TOR
Z U IG N A
L O A C IO
GA
R
I D E
Z U R I B
A
E
P IN
U
A R R U
E
P I N T O
R E S
E
D U R. F .
R IO
M IK
ZÁR EL
AT E
IL L
BRA
L U IS
O
TA
NE
D
SLA
LO
V IL
O
NA
VA
RR
L
IK O
AM
RAD
EST
A
D
N
A
IL
SO
I
A
G
A
Z
TO
N
V IL AVA R
LO RO
SLA
DA
BA
ES
ILL
TA
R IE
O IZ
AU
BA
GA
E
NT
MO
M OR E
T.
ES
A
A
RD
L PA
BA
R IB
EG
GR
RS
A
LE
JA
XE
ET
RIO
IO
OR
IO
LEK
EIT
RE
UN
AL
RE
XE
ET
IO
RS
PA
I
AT
OÑ
ID
AD
R IA
IA
PA
B IL
E
S
R IA
TU
AS
ÓN
AG
AR
IVE
DR
ALO. E. G.
NSO
ZP
ÍA
T
TA
OE
PL.
LA CASILLA
P
RR
LA
ABA
O
DE MA
ZOR R OT Z
M
O
OL N
AB
A
LA
R
RRETE A ZA
Serrano
KIO
CA
Instituto P.
de Sanidad
IL
ESTRADA
A
Í A
U
G
EC.P. Félix
UR
AN
R
L A
I L
E
R
E V
D
A
R
N
AG
L A
LE
DE
E
VA
L
S
Ó
L D
A
L
A
R
AL
A.
AL
A
T IA
EL
o
U
gi
OTZ
RU
le
Í V
L
Cristo
Rey
C
R
A
Colegio
Mayor
Abando
N
PA
PI
LL
Ntra. Sra.
del Carmen
ETA
AN
Co
M
L
AVA
E
UR
E
ECH
O
G
PL.
INDAUTXU
D
AR
IL
I O
GU
R
DA
O
CA
E G
ZOR R
R
ZP
Co
Ntra
del
O
J
I
E Z
TA
TE
I
L
G
ZA
RO
EST
MA RCÍA
GA ERO
RIV
LIC
A
R R
RE
IR
GA
A
I P
U
TU
AG
AS
O
S
DE
A
ÑY
LU
TA
CA
E
ÍA
D
LUC
L
IM
ÁX
ÓN
A
M
T IL LE R O
C
RE
AN
DA
E
IR
10
GU
AG
H
R
11
AR
A
RA
AS
11
D
7
A
S
E
ER O
O
M
AS TI LL
R
A
TRÁNSITO
E
6
D
1
2
L
I
RO
B
É R
A
A
Z A
I L
R E
T
AR
AG
N
H
ZE
R
Colegio
Público
Basurto
R T
U B
ES
TA
E K
CI
O
ÓN
A
A
P
E
JA R D I N E S
I PA R R A L D E
S U
R
ZA
OE
NK
21
ZA
AIT
PL. AITA
DONOSTI
DONO
TII A
DONOSTIA
A
C. P.
Arestizabala
Altamira
EG
Inmaculada
Concepción
O
B A
A
E
O
B
Ó
D
U
D
R
B AS
RE
I
V
A
XAN
DR. HÚCA
AC
U
Q
Hospital
Cruz Roja
Z
R R
A
ET ER
ST
-KA
RTU
E
U
O
C T
Z A
T A
B E N
E
Fuerte de Altamira
O
Albergue Bilbao
Aterpetxea
IP
D
C A RR
T
N
O
M
A
i
a
A
.
C
R
a
FE
UÍA
A
D
RRO
ÍA
d
e
D
I
Hacien
XU
UT
R
N
M
DE
L
A
N
P
M
Subdelegación
del Gobierno
G
ZA
18
L A
B E
A G
A
I M
S
CU
a
d
N
L
Bomberos
Suhiltzaileak
EAG A
C
n
L
ES
GE
A
D
E
A
RÍ
E
Consultorio
o
A
a n d er
V
LE
í
M
Municipal
A
ER
S
A
19
.
O
1
E
A
R Polícia
A
A
A
R
4
D
N
C OX E
T
A.
D RTE
AL A
EZ
LE Z
Depuradora
de Basatxu
R
Z
ÓS
Ñ
T
ZA
PO
A
O
ÍA
C
PL. E.
CAMPUZANO
Colegio P.P.
Jesuítas de
Indautxu
(Ntra. Sra.
de Begoña)
I
A
G
U R
PÉ
Hospital
de Basurto
O
C.P.
Olabeaga
AR
A Olabeaga
AV.
O
AG
U
B A S U R T
D E
LD
14
DE
BE
I N O S
GA
R
LÁ S
A
OL
H
TERMIBÚS
B
CO
ZUNZUNEGUI
S
NI
JUAN A.
I
N
E.T.S. de
e Ingenieros
Ing
Industriales
y
stria
Telecomunicaciones
nica
PL.
TORRES
QUEVEDO
M
U
S
E
A
22
2
B IDEA
UI
San
Fernando
A
A
L
A
JO
UI
L
D
KA
Q
EG
DE
N
A
TZ
N
IN D
DO
IA
NC
CE
LI
M
O
AL
IM
LA
U
A
Corpus
Christi
PL. VÍCTOR
CHÁVARRI
UR
M.
E Z
U Ambulatorio
N
B I
ÍS
BI
C
RU
LI
Campo
de
San Mamés
T
PL.
EÁ
S. JOSÉL A R R
N
Colegio
"la Pureza"
E
R AT
LÓ
O
G
I E
D
TR
ES
S A
FE
G
R Í
D
SÉ
ER
ES
PL.
L IP
PED. F E
BAST.
A
A
Club
Deportivo
E L
C AJosé
N O
A.I.S.S.
AR
O
D
JO
O
N
N
O
S
Y
RE
Í A
Gobierno
Vasco
R O
23
O
N
CO
A
R
Colegio
Calasancio
E
H
AZ
L
SA
INSS
OS
VÉ
GO
O
V
INSS
Casa de
Misericordia
T
TR
O
MÓ
N
GA
RA
Museo
M
M
Marítimo
d Bilbao
de
5
R
E
U
G
I A
R
60
J. BERGÉ Y
SALCEDO
S
I A
A R
A
ST U
R
G
PL. SAGRADO
CORAZÓN
A
CL
N
A
I D
A
N
B
PUENTE
UENT
EN
EUSKALDUNA
ALD
N
N
Alto de
Kastrexana
A
LM
SE
AN
É
RA
OS
. J STE R
PS
A
Polideportivo
C.P.
PARQUE
CASILDA
ITURRIZAR
AY
A
K A
S T
R E
X A
5
Euskalduna
Palacio
de Congresos
y de la Música
UB
X
S U R T U
B A
4
R
RT
E
C A R R E T E R A
6
o a S
a nt
V
I
ÚA
NC
AI
RR
J U
A
PL. E. E.P. TEÓFILO
CHILLIDA GUIARD
GU
F. C .
de B
ilb a
C - 63
A
E
A
Depósito
de Agua
R
AO
N
A
N
U
S
R
E
L
8
D
San
Museo de
Bellas Artes
DO EA
AR EC
D UD E L
. E
PS RIA
O
T
IC
V
ND
R
ZO
R R
OZ
G O
IT I
R
E
CA
ALFONS O CHUR RU
Z O
AK
ND
AY
A
ST
.
A
HE
UB
IR
KA
.M
O
R
LE
IZ
LE
I
AR
20
35
1
2
C.P. Miguel
de Cervantes
BA
J U
PL.
MUSEO
A
G
N
O
C A
D A
G U
A
R
PL.
EUSKADI
LA
A
43
51
San
Francisco
Javier
52
RT
M UELLE
A
PL. ERTZ.
J.M. AGIRRRE
A
B
I
O
GU
.I
C
R
D E L
A
3
ITXI"
R. M. "PITX
E
San
Nicolás
O R
E D
OR
SA
8
B
R
U
B
M
O
C
R
C.P. Siete Campas
Cardenal Gardoqui
E
I
Y
O
D
R
ES
6
Ñ
S
E
U R G O
T
BU
ÓN
D
NC
A
I
A
FR A
7
o
V
ND
W
IÁ
A P U C
a
E
A
C
O
13
Museo
Guggenheim
R
R
D
C
R
U
N
R
E
E
R
RR
U
b
N
TO
A
PUENTE
PUEN
EN
DE
D
DEUST U
DEE DEUSTU
DE
HO ITIA
NC PE
SA AZ
l
Z
EA
T
LA
O
PL.
EUGENIO
OLABARRIETA
O
A
A
San Pablo
E
T
D
O
R
R
.D
9
R
O
L
S
R
TE
SA
J
T
O
Ó
u
t
EL
O
G
s
H
Z
i
M
A
u
I
R
O
B
L
E D EU
AL D
CA N
e
E
I
S
D
A
A
P
A
RD
U
R
A
A
E
D
R
RA
A
L
A
DE ER
O.
C N NQU
JU
E
SA
IN O S
B
O
A
U IE
F
Ambulatorio
CAM
IZ Q
C.
L
EN
L
B
A
RG
Ñ
R
e
C H U R
R U C A
N
IJO
I
C. P.
Fray Juan
-
UC
S OL
N
I
E
e
E
BA
U
MA
T
I
G
R
LA
L
R
U
IT
S
AU
TO
PIS T
D
A
A
N
IÓ
U
DE
V
N
O
10
d
A
A
TE
ID EA
ES
G
FUEN
ZA LB
O
E
A
E
A L
F O N
S O
E
GA
ADA
R
E LA
M.
A
TZ
ZOR RO
ZG
ZO R R O
ES TR
O
O
TU
N. D
AR
M
US
S IC
M
O
CJÓ
AB
A
DE
d
RAMAL
OLABEAGA
AD
V
S A N D I ZA
TR
S
K
R
A
CAR R E T
E R A
ES
O
ROC
PÁR ENTE
VIC BALA
ZA
CNO.
ETA
11
R
ELL
A
QU
R
BIL
I L B A O
U
MU
A
UR
E
ZU
N
A
Depósito de
automóviles
retirados
por Grúa
Municipal
D
ID
N
MÚ
Colegio
Madre
de Dios
A
A
IR R E
V. H. G..
O
Colegio
La Salle
R
L
A
Colegio Público
Deusto
O
ER
OT
DE
AS
BL
LIO
H
N
Ó
C I ZA
E S T A ROT
R
DE ZO
J O
R O
B
l
L D
E
A
N
N
A
Pasión
M del Señor
IN
O
SA
N
FE
LIC
ÍSIM
R
Mercado
E
JU
A
C
A
PLAZA
AZOKA
3 4
- 6
R
Z
í
Instituto
NA
E
R
RO
E
LE
R
E
O
12
T
A
CA
a
R
K
PL.
PLÁCIDO
CAREAGA
Pl. ELISEO
MIGOYA
PL.
SAN
FELICÍSIMO
B
B
IL
A
E S
E N
Ó G
R M
H E
La
Milagrosa
D
Facultad de
Ciencias
Económicas
"Sarriko"
A
G
Idiomas
I
H
E
PL. JULIO
LAZÚRTEGUI
V
U
G
AG U
NOS
I.E.S.
Botica Vieja
A
D
A
D
I
CA
O
I
ST
R
M U
E L
L E
PLAZA
BURCEÑA
IA
US
L
R
A
O
Y
E
AG
PIN TOR ETX EN
E
LE
I N
R
CORDEL ERÍA
A
FR
R
PARQUE DE
SARRIKO
Torre de
Larrako
17
O
Zorrotza
AN
R
PL.
LANDABASO
S
PL. SANTA M. JOSEFA
SANCHO DE GUERRA
a
JU
R IA
Colegio
Salesiano
R E
A G U IR
M
EL
R
Polideportivo
IDE
NA
ERDIKOE TXE
T O
PL.
SARRIKOALDE
n
R
ALB
O
a
14
A RT S EN
GA
AS
CA
K
E
V
A
R
U
A
La Merced
RI
PL.
PL
SAN
N
MIGUELL
A
Ertzaintza
D A
A N
O L
PL.
E K
I B A R R
UGARTEKO
N
A
M
M
BA
16
A
R
C
Z
G
NA
IS L
Z A
R A
N D
O A
L E H
E N D
A K A R I
San Juan
Apóstol
K
E
R
R Escuela
I Oficial de
A
I
E
C
a
Central Térmica
de Iberdrola
R
RRA
B E N ID O R M
u
13
A
IG A
AGANA
Centro Proceso
de Datos
B.B.V.
U
A
R
R
A
Z
E
g
15
L
P. A
ST
PL.
IBARREKOLANDA
ARBOL
N
R
U
A
D
L
PARQUE
BIDARTE
Inst. B.U.P.
Ibarrekolanda
48
Ó
PL.
SAN
PEDRO
L
N
a
AV
E N
CA
I D
NA
A
L D
E D
EU
STU
Matadero
Municipal
Residencia
Reina de
A V La Paz
E N
ID
A
EO
M
JA
CA
Y
San Pedro
S TU
E
Centro
S C
A N de Salud
Ikastola
AR
IAS
Intxisu
MEDITERRÁN
U
E DE
S D
G
LA
MAR
Residencia
Villa Bilbao
V
A
IN
N
E
I
E
N
E
TX AK OL
IN O
ILIA
d
Depósito
Franco de Bilbao
IS
R R
E
JUAN DE URBI
ETA
U CH
L
Escuela
Universitaria
Profesorado
de E.G.B.
AM
AF
Instituto
de
San Ignacio
OA
T O
RO
IO N ES
CAM
PL.
PIO
N
AOIZ /
AGOITZ
N
M Ó
R A
HE R M A
PL. SAN
PÍO X
L
J A
C A
Y
Deusto
O
RA
Cementerio
de Deusto
TR. R.
L A
R R
A K
O
AP
B. C
AD
o
ND
TEL
A.
K
U
I R
R E
A
R
I
S
N
R
LAE
OR
TXE
IX
JUAN DE
GU
E
ANTXETA
EZA
LA
S AT
UR
RA
C.P.
RÁ
N
Maestro
ERR
O R I X E
ON
PL. AITA
PL. V.
C.I.
KAR
PATXI
ERR
BAZTAN
I
TU
ON
PL. CELESTINO
DE
E
L
ART
TA CN C A R A
M. DEL ARENAL
Mercado D O K O
U
RRA URÁ
N
A LT S .
UB
E
IZ A
RRA
. GU
IM
ÓN
A
U
DR
A
U
O
K
E
N
E
PIO
E
R
S
CAM
D
URO
N
I
IA
RA
K
R I Z
ART
A G
P IN
TO
R
P IN
T
SAT O R
IA
AR
ZA
a
leres
urceña
Ciudad
Deportiva
San Ignacio
R
D A
K A
R I
E
N
UE
U B. A B
O
RA
N
PLAZA DE LEVANTE
A
N
E
M I R A M A R
SU
GR
ID
C A M I N O
E
I X
JO Z
A
C. P.
Preescolar
de Arangoiti
E A
B I D
SA
a
EN
R
B E N I D O R M
b
AV
O
A
R
A
ADU
PIO
S C
AN
D
I
E
CAM
Autoridad
Portuaria
C
32
DA
A
ES
IL
EXT
CER
G
l
Atraque
RO-RO
o
I
Colegio
del Carmen
Universidad
B
Ascensor
TA
LA
A
JA
i
í
IA
R ID
TE
B
R
R
BA
REM
L E
H E
N
IS
D
N
N
A
URO
e
T
AB
MÉ
TE
ON
M
O
d
N
NT
CÁ
Red de
Electricidad
E
N
C. P. Ingeniero
Juan de Urrutia
CA
ART
I D A
E N
V
A
R IA
U
Form. Prof.
"San Ignacio
de Loyola"
AC U
I
T
P
RR IE TA
a
L A
R
EL L
R
A C IO
í
D E
O
E
E.C.M.
alleres
Zorroza
L
A EL O
E
R
C A M
I N
O
PL AZ
A
V
E
X
I
R
O
E B
I D
E A
IG N
R
E T
X
LSC A
A B A C IN A
EN
R EZ
U TI ER E LA
R. G AN D
JU
A
E
T E
L L
A
MONEM
GR ES
O B IO
EJ
O
C. P.
Maestra
E. Fuentes
A
M
P a r q u e
M ó v i l
Municipal
R I
B
I B A R
R
N O
DE A N T XE K
M I
A N
ET O
C A
J U
A L A
B i l
b a
o
B É R
A
RT
GO
KO
NE
GA
E
M e tr o
San
Andrés
PUENTE
PEDRO
ARRUPE
BI
NE
GA
TE
ON
M
1
Universidad
Comercial
de Deusto
KO
TA
s
a
r
e
d
n
E
a
B
B
R
e
O
t
G
n
A
AS
E
G
o
U
Colegio Mayor
Universitario
de Deusto
I D
M
I
C
E
L
L
A
B
Banderas
R
E
U
1
U
Emisora
El Fuerte
A
ID
N
E
V
A
Universidad
de Deusto
A
D E
B I
Z
R I
K
lo
Pab
M on te S a n
Monte Cabras
2
O
R
E
Campo
de Tiro
D A
B É
A N
K
X
S
T
a
I N G L E S E S
L O S
D E
P A
M
A
35
P
í
R
H
R
A
A
Colegio Esclavas
del Sgdo. Corazón
Fátima
N
a
-
U
E
By tram: Guggenheim Stop
S
R
Residencia
E
Siervas
V
de Jesús N I
D
A
LA SALVE
Ascensores
A
TALLERES
DEUSTO
Elorriaga
R I
b
U
I
K
l
E
T
N
B
E
A
LA
A
R
E
T
E
R
R
A
C
D
I
N
E
T
V
U G
A
ID
E S
N
Sugutxu
HOW TO GET THERE
Ntra. Sra.
de Fátima
A l d a b e
P TE. PR ÍN C I PE S DE ES PA Ñ A
( P T E . DE LA S ALV E)
Alto
o de
d
Enekuri
Eneku
kuri
ri
A
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
Heritage IN THE BOTXO
E
33
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
Both Deusto Bridge and the City
Hall Bridge were inspired by the
Michigan Avenue bascule bridge
in Chicago (1920).
UNITING RIVERBANKS:
DEUSTO BRIDGE
01
34
FROM THE TEMPLE OF
KNOWLEDGE TO THE OLD
SHIPYARDS
ROUTE 1.4 KM
Deusto University
in 1920.
DEUSTO UNIVERSITY
One of the most urgent needs arising from industrialization
was the need to educate managers.
Inaugurated in 1886, the Universidad of Deusto (1) was the
answer to this demand. Run by the Jesuits, one of the faculties
with the highest profile is the Business School, which was
founded in 1916. The first graduates from this part of the
university were ahead their time, as it was not possible to study
Economics in the rest of Spain for another twenty-five years.
The Deusto Library next to the
auditorium of the Public University.
La Cava Houses and the side of the
University.
It is made up of several buildings, from the oldest, known as La
Literaria (by José María Basterra and the Marquis of Cubas),
where law studies are taught, to the newest, the library, which
opened in 2009. Designed by Rafael Moneo, it is located next to
the Guggenheim and is across the street from the auditorium
of the UPV-EHU (the Basque public university), designed by
Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza. Both architects have won the
Pritzker Prize.
Next to Deusto University, you can see two houses known as
the La Cava (2). Built in 1869 on a family estate, they perfectly
illustrate the movement of the upper classes from the chokedup Old Quarter to the banks of the river before making the leap
to Neguri (p. 102).
In December 1936, the bascule bridge
which had been commissioned five years
before was inaugurated; it was designed
by engineers Ignacio de Rotaeche and
José Ortiz de Artiñano with the municipal
architect Ricardo Bastida (p. 16).
This bridge (3) and the bridge at the City
Hall provided a response to the need
to unite the historic centre of the town
with the new urban developments in the
neighbourhoods of Deusto, Begoña and
Abando.
The river traffic, fundamental for the
dockwork which was done here at
that time until its transfer to the outer
harbour of El Abra, conditioned the
design of such bridges to allow the
passage of ships.
35
1968. Here you can see the logging company that occupied the
current site of the Guggenheim, the Euskalduna shipyards, one of
the bridgeheads of Deusto bridge and the port area with its sheds
and infrastructure.
Rebuilt after its destruction in the Civil
War (1937), it was renovated in 1974.
The opening of the leaves was one of the
iconic sights of Bilbao until 1995; now,
however, it only opens for very special city
celebrations.
The total length of the bridge is 500 m
with a span of 48 m narrowing the channel
of the river, which at this point is 71 m,
with concrete buildings on each side
where the lifting machinery is located.
The leaves swing open to an angle of 70°.
It has 27 bays, 11 of which cross the river.
The GOBELA barge passes under Deusto bridge in the 1960s.
These were vessels for the transport of waste out to sea, including
the waste collected by dredges.
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
THE ROAR OF THE TIGER
Walking along the Abandoibarra riverwalk towards the
Euskalduna Palace, we see a building topped by a large
sculpture of a tiger on the opposite bank (4).
The Tiger building,
a transmission belt
company.
The industrial building, designed by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12) in
1940, housed the factory, office and showroom of the Muñoz
Mendizabal company which manufactured transmission belts.
In 1942 the sculptor Joaquín Lucarini was commissioned to
make the sculpture of the tiger, which is 9 m long. It was the
icon chosen to project the image of powerful transmission
belts which would resist any force. Some say that the owner
had an argument with local business people and avenged
himself by crowning his factory with a beast that “roars” day
and night, looking towards Indautxu, the place where many who
despised the humble origins of the owner of this factory lived.
After restoration work which maintained its exterior, the
building now houses luxury flats.
THE EMBLEMATIC SHIPYARD OF BILBAO
Following the course of the river is the Euskalduna Conference
Centre and Concert Hall (5). Its name comes from the name
of the shipyard which stood here before; it opened in 1900 and
closed in 1985.
36
37
The Euskalduna shipyard was located on land occupied by a
previous shipyard, the Compañía de Diques Secos, founded in
1868. In the first decade of the twentieth century, the first iron
and steam boats in the Basque Country left its dry docks.
The 2 dry docks and the slipway where
the Euskalduna Conference Centre and
Concert Hall now stands (1966).
Fusion between the current Conference Centre, built in 1999, (work of Federico Soriano and Dolores Palacios with
shapes that recall the keel of a ship made of corten steel) and the Maritime Museum with the slipways of the Diques
Secos company (1911), the forerunner of Euskalduna.
From 1925 on, through new facilities in
the neighbouring area of Olabeaga in
the nearby valley of Asúa and in Madrid,
it used its metalworking expertise and
complete installations (from casting
to final assembly) to produce, more
sporadically, goods such as railway
machinery, automobiles, bridges and
boilers.
Of the old premises, which occupied
90,000 m2, the only things that remain
are the Pump House at the bottom, the
crane known as Carola as a tribute to
the hundreds of cranes that stood upon
this coastal landscape of the town not too
long ago and finally, two of its dry docks
with caisson lock gates. Some boats
owned by the Maritime Museum are
housed in dock number 2.
The Pump House was built in 1903. It was
a pioneering building for its time because
of the use of reinforced concrete beams,
allowing it to have a spacious interior
without any columns in the middle. Its
function was to house the pumps (it
moved 9,000 m3/hour) for pumping out
water and keeping the docks dry.
38
The Pump House and the Carola crane as
the shipyard is being dismantled and after
its restoration. The crane, built in 1957,
was the most powerful -30 Tn- in Spain.
The original motors
of the Pump House.
Of the original three dry docks, only 2
and 3 have been preserved. Dry dock
no. 2 was part of the infrastructure of
the previous company, Diques Secos;
it was used to repair and clean ships’
hulls. Built in 1868, it was expanded in
1902 by the engineer Recaredo Uhagón
(also responsible for the first Sanitation
Plan for Bilbao) to increase its capacity.
It is a dry dock which is 121 m long, with
hydraulic brickwork walls crowned with
masonry. Around the same time as dock
no. 2 was extended, a third dock was
built, also designed by Uhagón. It had a
capacity of 11,000 tons (three times dry
dock no. 2).
Construction and launch of the
ship the Fernando Poo in 1935.
39
Aerial view and launch in 1974.
These acts were a social event.
We walk to the neighbourhood of
Olabeaga. This is an enclave where
most of its inhabitants had jobs related
to sea (in shipbuilding, as sailors or as
stevedores). Today, all the landing bays
and infrastructures devoted to these
tasks have gone.
The main historical elements are on the
opposite shore. This was the Ribera de
Deusto riverside neighbourhood until a
huge canal was opened in the 1960s at
the rear of the warehouses and flats. This
left the area an isthmus and it will end up
becoming an island.
Two simulations of the new development in this area in the Zaha
Hadid project. The current peninsula will become an island,
and the new buildings will provide relief for the constant lack of
space in the ‘botxo’ or ‘hole’.
Deusto canal in 1970.
02
INDUSTRIAL
ARCHITECTURE OF
THE TWENTIETH
CENTURY
40
This is where Bilbao’s next big project for
the 21st century will be located, turning
it into a residential area and home to
companies with high added value and
social facilities and keeping the most
emblematic old industrial buildings,
in a plan designed by the architect
Zaha Hadid, Right now it is mostly a
collection of buildings in decay, ruins or
mere empty sites where buildings have
been demolished. In this phase of the
future redevelopment of the area, the
neighbourhood known as the Ribera de
Deusto hosts activities and art projects
based in many of the factories that are
still standing.
Once you have passed Olabeaga, take
the riverside path that connects it to the
district of Zorroza.
COROMINA INDUSTRIAL
We see the first reference on the right
bank, about halfway along the path from
Olabeaga. It is the Coromina Industrial
factory (6) built in 1923.
Of the 8 factory buildings which it once
had, only the front building that housed
the gatehouse, offices and stables
remains. The elegant frieze of the facade
was designed by architect Manuel Mª
Smith (p.13).
It is a single block with a gatehouse,
housing for the manager on the first floor
and workshops around a rectangular
courtyard made of brick, plaster and tiles
with secessionist stylistic references.
Dedicated to the production of carbon
dioxide and sulphur dioxide, it was active
until 1983, when it was damaged by the
torrential rains. It now belongs to the
mooring chains company Vicinay.
ROUTE 3 KM
From here, the walk will show you factories
and warehouses with 2 optional routes:
1) Continue along this bank beside the
river. The route runs mostly on a
pedestrian path. You will have a view
with greater perspective and less detail,
but it will allow you to return to Bilbao
by an alternative route.
2) Walk along the opposite bank of the
river. You will see the buildings in much
greater detail, but you will have to
retrace your steps to return to Bilbao.
View of the
emblematic
loading
platform of
Olabeaga,
demolished
in the 90s.
To follow this guide, take route 1
from the Maritime Museum (www.
museomaritimobilbao.eus). This museum
keeps some of its exhibits in the old dry
dock no. 2 and, inside the museum, the
displays show the close relationship of the
city with the sea over the centuries.
As in other cases, access to the old factory looked like a house
that was “clean, human and close to aesthetic residential uses”
to minimize the aggressive activity of the manufacturing.
Madaleno Palace
(1898), residence
of the owner of the
Aurrera company
in Sestao. One of
the few remaining
examples of the
mansions built by
wealthy families
fleeing the
congested historic
quarter, before
moving to Neguri.
41
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
The sales entry to the
factory was through
the building known as
“the church”.
ARTIACH
When we have left Olabeaga, 300 metres further on we see the important
complex of Artiach Biscuits (7), consisting of 3 buildings. Although the
factory was located here since 1921 and was the first building in the state
designed to accommodate a biscuit factory, a fire in 1931 made it necessary
to build a new factory.
The most interesting part is the initial block built in 1937 in the classical
style, also known as “the church” because of its Tuscan columns, arches
and heavy wooden door welcoming people in. The first two floors, finished
in a classical style, contrast with the austere, conventional modern style of
the upper floors built in 1965. It is protected and separated from adjacent
buildings by walls that form a small square in front of the factory entrance.
The large elongated factory, at right angles to the river, has a predominantly
blind facade but is enlivened by the 96 tiny windows on each of its four
floors.
Both buildings were designed by engineer José Artiach Gárate,
as a member of the family of owners. On the opposite side is an
extension from modern times (the 1950s), a building faced with
red brick and topped by a prominent tower.
As many as 800 people worked here in the 1970s, of which 600
were women known by the nickname of “galleteras” or “biscuit
makers”. In this place, a pleasant smell of cinnamon filled the
air over other more typical industrial odours.
With the floods of 1983, the company went on to move its
manufacturing to a new plant located in the interior of Bizkaia,
leaving this building divided into workshops and various
companies. In the redevelopment of the area, this complex is
expected to be kept as a Cultural Centre.
WATER TANK OF THE TUGBOATS IBAIZABAL
COMPANY
Located on this side of the river, the reservoir for drinking water
called Urgozo (8) accumulated 1,800 m3 from a nearby spring
which, initially, were collected in the gallery of an old copper
mine.
Built in 1921 to designs by Gregorio Ibarreche, it facilitated
supplies of fresh water to ships that required it, using the cistern
tugboat Auntz, now exhibited in the dry dock at the Maritime
Museum. From its initial buildings, the house and warehouse
next to it have disappeared, demolished in the 1990s when they
had served their purpose.
42
43
The original factory building has 96 small windows on each of its
4 floors. You can still see the company logo on the side and one of
its brands on the front overlooking the river.
Water tank seen from the bank
opposite the recommended walk.
The “biscuit makers” were one of the
greatest symbols of the industrial fabric
of this area of Bilbao.
Naïve painting of the factory before the
fire of 1931.
The 3 buildings that made up the
Artiach factory complex with 2
residential buildings forming part
of the side overlooking the river
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
The Beta building.
Facade and rear
extension.
BETA BUILDING
LANCOR AND CONSONNI
Inserted (9) into the row of houses and factories,
this 1952 building will be preserved in the plan to
remodel the area to house the Centre for Applied
Mathematics.
These are two different ways of understanding
the architecture of the 1950s (11).
Until its transfer to another town in Bizkaia, the
company was engaged in cold metal stamping
in this building, which consists of a ground floor
and two upper floors for production, with another
upstairs floor with housing. It is defined by with the
prominent corner tower containing the staircase and
a remarkable unevenly laid out rear extension.
CROMODURO
You may not find any remains of this company by
the time you do this walk (10). Today, the only part
still standing is the gatehouse and, separated by a
plot of land, the skeleton of the former offices of the
company, which produced plastics. The gatehouse
was in fact part of a wood company that was designed by Manuel
Galíndez (p. 27) at the beginning of the century and it uses
this material extensively in this building, as he would do in the
Maderas Españolas building (p. 46) 800 m further on, which is
much better preserved.
44
The old offices, in operation until 2010, were the work of Juan
de Madariaga in 1969. They were part of a new concept of
industrial architecture which emerged around 1970. It was a very
impressive two-floor building. Supported by a metal frame with
two powerful structural lines for the main roof frame and the
roof, the front facade is inserted, between them, less visible and
totally made of glass. This is a style that is highlighted on the
outside sign, which is interesting for its font.
The office
building when
the company
was still active in
2005.
The gatehouse and
office building of
Cromoduro in its
current state of
neglect.
Although they are next to each other, first
we see the building of Termoelectricidad
Consonni, where resistors were produced. This
is a beautiful factory building, built in 1957 and
finished on the ground floor and two upper
floors with a neat, elongated, elegant glass
front that dominates almost all of its facade.
It is being considered as a future Museum of
Technology and Industry to hold all the major
industrial collections in Bizkaia.
Separated by a narrow yard with a distinctive
factory air to it was Elorriaga Industrias
Eléctricas (Lancor). This was a production
complex built in 1958 with a vertical style of
ground floor and four upper floors of reinforced
concrete covered with dark brown brick, with a
very balanced proportion of windows and walls,
in which the stairwell of the facade is an iconic
element. It was abandoned in 2000.
Photo from 1927. The Ribera de Deusto riverside area
has been, is and will always be an area where houses and
businesses coexist side by side.
45
Drawing of the power plant in1894.
Current state of the MEFESA facilities (marked
by a diamond logo). You can already see the new
buildings of companies that are beginning to emerge
from the ruins of other industrial times. The green
building in the background is the headquarters of the
engineering multinational IDOM.
MEFESA
One hundred metres further on we see the last
industrial complex visible from the shore we
are walking along (12). This is the metallurgical
company MEFESA, an industrial complex
overlooking the river where you can still see the
office building designed by Luis Mª Gana in 1962.
46
It is very interesting for its spatial organization,
with its three floors that have a rhythm of windows
between remarkably expressive concrete frames
and the front, which is covered with glazed
cladding.
It is a remarkable composition that fitted in with
the stylistic criteria of the moment, an opening
onto the international vanguard, and with the
factory building at the end as powerful industrial
testimony. With the diamond-shaped logo on the
office building, the laboratories and chemical
processing tower, which is very high, it was
destined to become “an architectural landmark.”
It is difficult to see from the left bank, as it is about
300 m further on from MEFESA and from the river it is
hidden behind a hedge; this building was the gatehouse
and offices of the defunct company Maderas Españolas
(13) (1939-1980), currently owned by Matricería
Nervión. Built in 1943, it is another building by Manuel
Galíndez (p. 27) with similar characteristics, sector
and function as the existing Cromoduro. Its rural
architecture in the neo-Basque style or the details of
hearts on the shutters uses wood to symbolize the
company product and to link it to the craftsmanship of
the company.
Its inner set of tanks and hoists for treating the
metal make it simply “a building-machine, an
industrial sculpture”.
47
ELECTRA DEL NERVIÓN
Before the flour mill we can see some
industrial facilities surrounded by
galvanized tin sheeting.
They occupy the buildings of what used
to be Electra del Nervión (14), the
first electricity power plant in Bilbao,
which was founded in 1894 and brought
electricity to all the towns on both sides
of the river.
Under its nondescript fencing are
the original facilities that can still be
seen; the halls and deep hollow spaces
within, with their semicircular arches
and brickwork friezes.
On our walk along the Alfonso Churruca quay
you can see the remains of old loading bays and
some explanatory panels about the area and its
industrial facilities.
The surviving factory buildings are
among the oldest industrial buildings
on the river in Bilbao and one of the few
examples of ‘cathedral factories’ left
standing.
But nearing the end of the pedestrian route
and going round the first industrial facility we
approach what is the jewel of this walk: the
abandoned Molinos Vascos mill building.
It originally occupied 3 halls, a boiler
building with a chimney 63 m high, now
demolished, and a transformer room.
Current view of
the old Electra
del Nervión and
Molinos Vascos.
In the case
of the power
plant, the tin
sheeting still
lets you see the
shapes of the
various original
buildings.
View of the area
in the 1950s
where loading
platforms and
towers for
mining trams
can be seen.
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
MOLINOS VASCOS
Almost immediately after this we find
Molinos Vascos (15). The work of Federico
Ugalde (p. 28) in 1924 following the
aesthetics of neo-Basque architecture, it
was the second building built of concrete
in Bilbao after another flour factory: La
Ceres (p. 17).
The main building consists of two wings
at right angles to each other and occupies
about 1,000 m2 of ground, of which 600
is the warehouse and the rest are the
silos. The main facade faces the river
and runs parallel to the loading quay
and the old railway tracks. The part used
as the warehouse has five floors with
large open spaces topped by a roof in the
neo-Basque style that makes the building
unmistakable.
But the most distinctive feature of this
construction are the 15 enormous silos
measuring 22 metres, each capable of
storing up to 75 tons of grain.
Interestingly, the flour factory was only
in operation for 5 years, as it coincided
with a time of poor grain harvests and the
crash of 1929. Until its final abandonment
as shown in its present form, the building
was used as a warehouse.
In the construction of the factory, several
premises of the former Royal Shipyard of
Zorroza were reused. This was one of the
largest shipyards on the Cantabrian coast,
and it had been in operation since 1615.
From that early use as a shipbuilding
factory, the building called La Cordelería
is preserved, a late seventeenth building
where the rope for ships’ rigging was
made by twisting and spinning hemp.
Today you can see the few remains of one
the ends of the building, but the original
building was over 400 metres long over
2 floors and was used for spinning and
braiding hemp rigging for ships.
48
49
View of the back with the silos, with the
end of the old ropeworks.
The building behind Molinos Vascos is the section that
remains of the old ropeworks of the Royal Shipyard
of Zorroza. The building is about 400 metres long, as
shown in a drawing of the period.
Iron Bridge (16) by Pablo
Alzola (p. 28), built in 1888
for the Bilbao-Portugalete
railway (designated as being
of Cultural Interest). It crosses
the Cadagua river with a
span of 65 metres without
intermediate supports.
Today, it still has one of the 2
caissons of the original bridge.
Industry
Walk 2
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
03
BACK TO
BILBAO
ROUTE 4 KM
We can do this in 2 ways:
1) By public transport in Zorroza by taking
the train (RENFE) or the buses that go
to the city centre.
2) Walking back along the road on the
wide pavement that runs parallel to the
road and from which you can enjoy a
view of the same route but higher up.
With the height that the walk back gives
us, we can see buildings from the road
that are hardly noticeable from the level of
the river.
50
TARABUSI
Tarabusi office building behind the city pound.
Neighbourhoods built at a time when laws made houses cheaper
because of housing cooperatives or because companies built
houses for their employees. These were then known as ‘cheap
houses’.
Firstly the neighbourhood of Santiago, built in 1924 by the
Employees Cooperative of the Bilbao to Portugalete Railway; in the
background, the Santa Ana estate by Ismael Gorostiza (p. 81) in
1931, which was promoted by a cooperative made up of employees
of the Hospital and the Euskalduna shipyard.
This is the case with Tarabusi (17).
This is a factory dating from 1945 which
was a major production complex for
electromechanical constructions and
transformers. The only part that is left is
this building at the end of the municipal
pound. Previously, it housed the offices
of the company and in the ambitious
Remodelling Plan for the area it is
expected to be used for the work of a
foundation dedicated to the study of cities.
If you have made the return journey by bus
or walking, you will enter Bilbao through
the neighbourhood and hospital of Basurto.
Shortly before reaching the hospital, on
the other side of the road you can see
two rows of council houses called “cheap
houses” (18).
Although on walks 1 and 4 there are
other examples of this type of residential
architecture, if you have the opportunity
to get closer you will see how their
design reflects the three-fold principles
of the hygienist movement in the early
twentieth century for workers’ homes:
sun, air and water.
View of the
hospital buildings
with their gardens
and characteristic
tiled roofs.
BASURTO HOSPITAL
At the Hospital (19), we urge you to enter the main gate to look
at its landscaped garden areas and buildings that, although
still evolving with the times, have kept their original style.
Again we see a work that recalls English architecture of turn
of the century, as a sign of the aesthetic inclination of this city
towards British taste.
The municipal architect Enrique Epalza (p. 28) with Dr. José
Carrasco, director of the Atxuri Hospital and later Basurto,
toured the most modern medical centres in Europe, and took
as their model the management and design of the hospital of
Ependorff in Hamburg, one of the most innovative of the time.
It was begun in 1898 and completed 10 years later with
600 beds and it remains the main hospital of the city,
substituting the old hospital in Atxuri (p. 13). The money to
build the Hospital was raised through donations from the
wealthy of Bizkaia. Their names can be seen on the stones
that line the walls of the main entrance where, in many of
them, they indicate the compensation for the contribution
of the benefactor, for example, beds in perpetuity. We leave
the hospital on Avenida Montevideo and continue until the
street changes its name to Autonomía. This was an area
of workshops and companies including most notably the
Cervecera del Norte, demolished in 1995.
51
List of donations
from wealthy
Bilbao families
at the main
entrance of the
hospital complex.
Industry
Walk 2
THE ENGINEERING FACULTY
INDUSTRY AND RIVER
MUNICIPAL WORKSHOPS
Upon reaching the crossroads at Sabino
Arana, 200 metres to the right you will
see the building dedicated to municipal
warehouse (20). The construction from
1915 was designed for storing flammable
and hazardous materials.
Although you can see many decorative
elements on the facade (pilasters,
mouldings, railings), the whole building
is made of reinforced concrete and
the internal distribution is made up
of numerous spaces divided by doors
of thick steel that could prevent the
possible spread of any fire to other areas
of the building.
Retracing our steps, we go down Sabino
Arana to Zankoeta, the third street on
the left.
52
ZANKOETA DISINFECTION
CENTRE
The old Disinfection Centre of the city
has stood in this short street since 1918
(21). Located near the hospital, it was
designed by Ricardo Bastida (p. 16); its
appearance is influenced by Catalan
modernism, with masterful use of brick
and ceramics.
Although today it is a district Civic
Centre, its original function was to
combat and contain epidemics that
ravaged a city where many residents
attracted by the industrial boom were
subject to overcrowding and terrible
sanitary conditions.
Inside you can see numerous machines
and objects related to its original
function.
Taking Luis Briñas street towards the river, we find the Faculty
of Engineering (22) of the University of the Basque Country, next
to the modern stadium of San Mamés.
The Faculty was founded in 1899 and although it is composed of
several buildings, the one next to San Mamés is from 1958, the
work of Jesús Rafael Basterrechea and part of the modernist
movement. Together with Deusto University, it is the great
educational landmark of the city.
SANTA CASA DE LA MISERICORDIA
As the final highlight of this tour, on the other side of the area
where the Engineering Faculty is located, we can see the
monumental late neoclassical building of the Santa Casa de la
Misericordia (23) with its large romantic gardens which are open
to the public.
This was an entity dedicated to helping the poor. It was set up
nearly 300 years ago and was the first social service that was
built outside the boundaries of the Old Quarter, to be located in
this building in 1872.
In fact, its haste to install itself in this area made it a reference
when designing the extension of the Ensanche, as its gardens
became the outer limit of the Extension Plan.
1927. Old
Deposit for
inflammable
and dangerous
materials, today
the Municipal
Workshops
and in the near
future a new
police station.
1935. Ambulances in front
of the Disinfection Centre.
Painting from 1900 where you can see the bulk of the
Santa Casa de la Misericordia in the background in an
area that was still sparsely built up.
The outline of the Faculty of Engineering,
typical of the modernist movement of
the mid-twentieth century, silhouetted
against the contemporary architecture of
San Mamés stadium.
53
Walk 3
IRON: THE RED
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
ASSESSMENT
ROUTE
9 km
UNMISSABLE
01_Larreineta funicular railway
02_La Arboleda - Zugaztieta
03_Miners and mines: the devoured mountain
04_Ortuella
“Red mines of my Bizkaia, you
are a deep wound in the green
mountain!”
(Esteban Urquiaga, Lauaxeta)
EXTENSIONS
1_Mining remains between Kobaron and Pobeña (10 Km)
2_El Pobal foundry (10 Km)
3_La Encartada textile factory (18 Km)
Walk 3
Industry IRON: THE RED
Heritage
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
5
8
6
4
7
1
9
56
57
3
HOW TO GET THERE
By train: Take a Renfe Cercanías train from
Abando Station, line C2 to the Valley of Trápaga
(Old name: San Salvador del Valle).
Get off at: Valle de Trápaga - Trapagaran.
1km away from the funicular railway.
By bus: Bizkaibus, A3336 and A3337 (Bilbao-Muskiz).
Get on at: Hurtado de Amézaga (in front of
Abando station).
Get off at: Bus stop 4912 (in front of Trapagaran
Town Hall). 300 m. from the funicular railway.
2
EXTENSIONS
10
Walk 3
Heritage
01
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
MINES, MILLS AND MERCHANDISE
58
With the
intensive
mining, both
the landscape
and the
health of the
inhabitants
were severely
affected.
Since the
time that the
mines closed,
significant
efforts have
been made to
redirect living
conditions in
the area, as
can be seen
from the two
pictures (1909
and now) of
the Putxeta
neighbourhood
in the area of
Abanto.
This route takes us to see the mining
remains of the richest vein of iron ore
in Europe; it was also the cheapest,
because it was opencast. It was ore with
very low phosphorus and with a high
concentration of iron (there were different
types, including ore known as ‘the vein’ or
hematite, which was 60% iron, ‘campanil’
or goethite, which was 55% iron and ‘rubio’
or limonite, which was 53% iron). This was
wealth that had been known about since
ancient times, as shown by the Roman
remains found in the area. The Roman
historian Pliny the Elder (1st century AD)
talked about a mountain of iron. “In the
part of Cantabria which is bathed by the
sea there is a rugged high mountain made
all of iron, an amazing and wonderful
thing.”
In the Middle Ages, a whole network of
commercial routes built up around the ore,
with iron sent to the rest of Europe through
the monasteries, which helped shape the
image of the ‘Biscay iron’ made in the
foundries here. More intensive exploitation
of the ore came from 1865 onwards, with
exports targeted at Great Britain and its
Bessemer converters. This invention had
brought down the cost of steel production
greatly but it was a system that required
low-phosphorus iron, which was scarce
in Britain and abounded in Bizkaia, so
foreign capitalists set their sights on the
mountains of Triano, with its ideal raw
material for this kind of furnace, its low
costs and its ability to work opencast all
the year round.
The decline of this famous 25 km-long vein
that juts out into the sea began when the
richest seams were used up to feed the
large steel mills along the Bilbao estuary.
Competition then came from other types of
ore following the invention of the SiemensMartin furnace system, which could
already work with ore containing high
levels of sulphur. Logically, this operation
was labour-intensive and people began to
come from neighbouring provinces to work
in the mines, which ended up attracting
thousands who wanted to get away from
the impoverished world of farming.
Using the funicular railway or driving up by
car, we propose a visit to the mining areas
and the towns and neighbourhoods created
around them. It was an economic activity
that marked an era and turned Bizkaia into
the most prosperous of all the areas on the
Atlantic coast.
LARREINETA
FUNICULAR
RAILWAY
The funicular railway opened in 1926
(1) after 5 years under construction,
and it runs from the La Escontrilla
neighbourhood in the Valley of Trápaga
to Larreineta every half an hour. It is the
work of the Provincial Council engineer
Francisco Guinea. The journey, at 2 m/s,
takes just 10 minutes; it is 1,200 m long,
rising to a height of 342 m on an incline of
35%. You will see great panoramic views
of the valleys that lead down to the river
and the port of El Abra.
Originally its purpose was to transport
miners and mine trucks, as access to
the top of the mountain was very difficult
because of the rugged terrain. The
funicular also has a peculiarity that makes
it stand out over other cable railways of the
period: the line curves to the right to reach
the upper station, a characteristic not
shared by many other cable railways.
Other features include a gauge of 1,200
mm and the fact that the carriages are
removable. The carriage bodies are
positioned horizontally on platforms,
and as the two stations on the line have
overhead cranes, they can be removed
easily. As a result, the platform can be left
empty, which in the past made it possible
to transport vehicles of all types, with a
maximum load of 9.5 tons.
In fact, because of the poor access road
to Larreineta, this service was used daily
by delivery trucks, fishmongers, charcoal
sellers and even the hearse. Used before
by over a million passengers every year,
today this has fallen to a third of that figure.
The line was renovated in 1985 and until
15 years ago, was the longest in the state.
Its two stations are a good example of
regionalist architecture in the neo-Basque
style, designed by Diego de Basterra.
From top to
bottom: The
‘Funi’ without
its carriages
in 1926; the
carriages in
operation until
the 1990s and
the modern
train managed
nowadays by the
public company
Eusko Tren.
Diego de Basterra y
Berastegui
(1883-1959)
Other works:
• Institute and School
of the Chamber of
Commerce in Bilbao.
With Ricardo Bastida
(1927).
• Elejabeitia house.
Deusto, Bilbao (1933).
• Provincial Institute of
Hygiene. Bilbao (1934).
• Several schools in
Bilbao (until 1936).
Despite
successive
renovations, the
original 1926
equipment built
by the Swiss
company Brown
Boveri still
works.
59
Walk 3
Heritage
La Arboleda, main square. On the left, the building
which was the ‘casa del pueblo’ social club of the
socialist party and trade union of 1888, built only
11 years after La Arboleda was founded.
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
In short, this is a
cultural landscape
which combines
the remains of
countless mining
infrastructures
embedded in a
landscape of great
environmental
quality and
biodiversity that is
absolutely unique
in the Basque
Country.
In this area there were hundreds of mines (292 in 1890)
of all sizes, the most important of which were initially
set up as joint ventures between local and foreign
entrepreneurs: “The Orconera Iron Ore Cº Ltd.”, “The
Bilbao River and Cantabrian Railway Cº Ltd.”, “Luchana
Mining Cº Ltd.”, “Société Franco-Belge des mines de
Somorrostro”, “J.B. Rochelt”, until it became known as
“The California of Iron”.
02
LA ARBOLEDA ZUGAZTIETA
60
ROUTE 1.3 KM
From Larreineta to La Arboleda there
is a 1 km walk past fields and what are
now lakes, which have formed as a result
of the rising water level in the old open
cast mines. They had curious names
such as “Matamoros”, “Las Cármenes”,
“El Negro”, “Elvira”, “La Parcocha”,
“Los Alemanes”, “La Mamen”, “Cantera
Macho” and “El Ostión”.
This last one occupied the large space
to the left of the road (2). A remarkable
environmental job has been made of
recovering the shattered landscape, and
you can see the remains of the old mines
as part of an illustrative, enjoyable walk
through newly replanted trees and grass
that now carpet the faces of the mine.
It is a beautiful, harmonious combination
of the mother rock, bared by mining, and
the trees and shrubs that cling to the
rocks with their roots.
By the 1950s, the veins were nearly mined out; in 1963
the export of iron ore stopped, and the last mine in this
area closed in 1986.
Original miners’ huts from the first settlements of
miners.
View of the road linking
Larreineta to the town of La
Arboleda which can be seen
in the background. To the
left of the route, you can see
the effect that the mining
had on the landscape. This
used to be El Ostión opencast mine.
View of El Ostión mine in
full operation in the early
twentieth century.
The area around La
Arboleda has been
transformed into a zone of
environmental protection,
with a collection of Corten
steel sculptures.
A typical wood-panelled house in La Arboleda.
They were buildings that were usually inhabited
by one family, and in many cases people brought
in extra money by taking in lodgers.
La Arboleda (3) was founded in 1877 to house the
workers right next to the mines. They came from every
corner of the Iberian Peninsula and lived in conditions
that, even today, can be seen here in its houses, streets
and landscape. It is the most representative display
of mining life and, in its heyday became known by the
nickname ‘El Dorado’.
They were hard years, in which men, women and
children worked in extreme conditions, living in
overcrowded huts or tiny houses, and disease and
death were the order of the day; in fact, at one point, life
expectancy was only 20.
The poor quality of life and unfavourable working
conditions led to the creation and development of trade
unions and anarchist, socialist and communist politics
together with movements with Catholic roots, turning
it into the cradle of the workers’ rights movement in
Bizkaia.
It was in La Arboleda that the first workers’ strikes
started; they struck great fear into the Bilbao
bourgeoisie and became long and bloody.
61
03
Walk 3
Heritage
The place is more reminiscent of a Welsh mining
village than traditional towns of the area. You
can still see houses with wooden walls which
replaced huts full of bunk beds lit with carbide
lamps where miners slept in a ‘warm bed’ shift
system.
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
In fact, the disappearance of the huts was one
of the main demands of the workers in the great
strikes of 1890 and 1903. By 1911 most of the
buildings were already stone, forming a motley
neighbourhood where about 3,000 people lived.
In 1913 the Catholic trade unionist Jacques
Valdour described La Arboleda as “a village of
small dirty, black houses, built hastily out of
wood or brick or mud so light that sometimes
the northern facade is protected with timber.
Dirty alleys separate meagre, uncomfortable,
dark and poorly maintained accommodation”.
62
In 2012 one of these small
houses (1880) in Ganerantz
street was restored so that
people can visit it and see the
conditions of domestic life of
the time.
Reservations: meatzaldea.eus
ROUTE TO GALLARTA: 6 KM
Until the great mining era, the inhabitants of the valley of
Somorrostro and Barakaldo combined agricultural work with
extracting and hauling ore to the ports.
Ownership of the Triano mountains until the late nineteenth century
was in the hands of the seven councils of the Valley of Somorrostro,
which distributed it for communal use (such as forests for wood used
in foundries, homes, shipbuilding and construction).
Transportation and hauling
systems were very disparate
and each company had
their own, without any
collaboration between them,
which also contributed to the
enormous environmental
damage.
Line of buckets at the
Chávarri mines (1883) and
the Orconera cable railway
connecting the calcining kilns
to its own railway (1925).
Later, amenities were added that made this
a settled place to live, including a hospital,
schools, an asylum-hospice, a company store,
a circle of Catholic workers, a ‘casa del pueblo’
(social club of the socialists), a Civil Guard
barracks, a cinema and the parish church
dedicated to San Salvador.
63
The urban fabric started creating a grid pattern
of streets around a central square. This square
brought order to the village and was where such
amenities as the parish church, the bandstand
and the headquarters of the unions would be
located.
La Arboleda is a must for anyone interested in
gastronomy because of its restaurants, where
the ‘alubiada’ bean stew is the speciality of the
area. Even with this attraction, today there are
only about 16 restaurants out of the 24 bars
there were in its heyday.
From here you can extend your excursion by
walking above the village to the Peñas Negras
interpretation centre (about 2 km away)
where you will find both mining remains and
explanations of the natural surroundings. If you
do not have enough time, we recommend that
you keep to the proposed route.
La Arboleda miners’ hospital 1880-1896, now gone. The
harsh working conditions were reflected by the existence
of three miners’ hospitals. Although they were built by the
major companies, workers were required to contribute 2% of
their wages towards maintaining the hospitals.
MINERS AND MINES: THE
DEVOURED MOUNTAIN*
1887 watercolour of the
neighbourhood around Arkotxa
in which you can see various
railways, the aerial tramway
linking the Union and Amistosa
mines and a cable railway.
This is a walk that leads us to Gallarta along a
new road. In 6 km, we can see remains of the
aerial tramways, digging machines, ventilation
shafts for the mine galleries, huts, kilns...
*Texts: ezagutubarakaldo.net
Walk 3
Heritage
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
Borers with a
steam hammer.
1920.
The use of the mountains was
unregulated, work was simply prohibited
outside the summer months and the
number of animals for haulage was
limited.
The iron ore was found on the surface of
the soil. The mining system was similar
to that of a quarry, using explosives
to separate great blocks of ore. After
blasting, the ore was broken up with
picks and hoes, removing the debris
with rakes and baskets.
Until the nineteenth century, iron ore
could be taken from the mountains
without title deeds or any specific
limitation. In order to extract the ore it
was enough to place a cross made of
stones on the ground, to show that the
site was in operation.
They started by loading the material
onto mules, which were then replaced
by inclined plane cable railways (from
1867), aerial tramways (1872) and
railways (1865), which would take the
ore to the 23 loaders along the river.
This was because the size of the
seams was proportionate to the lack
of consumption, and the metal had no
appreciable value. Ore was mined as if
one were chopping wood.
From 1895, the richest ore began to run
out, so they started to reuse what had
been discarded at first (known by the
name of ‘txirta’). To do so, new devices
were used and a final product with
a higher level of iron was produced;
washeries to take away clay and earth
(in 1899, 17 washeries were recorded
with 49 trommel washing drums) and
calcining kilns to separate the ore from
other rocks (in 1919 there were 45 fully
operational kilns).
The mining laws of 1859 and 1868 allowed greater extension
of mines and suppressed limits of ownership. Mines were
demarcated, even when they were not mined, around the most
important areas and the largest tracts of land ended up in the
hands of the big companies.
64
At the end of the Third Carlist War, in 1874, the real explosion
in mining in the region occurred. The iron mines of Bizkaia
and Cantabria brought in the latest technology and the best
technicians and engineers of the time, with technologically
pioneering infrastructure.
As with many other traditional activities,
all that remains of the hard work of the
mines are the popular games such as
borer contests (borers were responsible
for opening holes for inserting sticks of
dynamite), which can still be seen in the
village festivals of the area.
As an example of how much was mined
in these mountains, the Orconera Iron
Ore Cº Ltd., one of the main companies,
exported more than 7 million tons
during the last years of the 19th century
(approximately 20% of the ore in the
Bizkaia mining area). In 1894 alone,
more than 1 million tons of ore were
extracted, of which over 80% were
exported abroad.
The mine was a new, unknown world, with new concepts and
new jobs appearing; borers, ponymen, labourers, foremen,
scalesmen, mine boys, company stores, guitars, bowling,
country dances, mining accidents and strikes.
The workday was not established in duration by any
regulation. At the beginning, there were mines where people
worked longer than from sunrise to sunset at the time of year
with shorter days, and were only paid per day worked.
The harsh conditions around the mines (the rise in cost of
living, the compulsory purchase of commodities in company
stores operated by the foremen, hours and safety conditions)
meant that life expectancy for those born in this area did not
exceed 20 in the late nineteenth century. This situation led
to 30 partial strikes and 5 general strikes between 1890 and
1910. Among the achievements of this succession of revolts,
the most important were the elimination of the system of
canteens and the reduction of hours to 9.5 hours (the workday
was not reduced to 8 hours until 1919).
Photos of the 1910 strike, which lasted 70 days. Soldiers protecting a train
belonging to the Orconera company, members of the strike committee
and the evacuation of children from the mining area to Portugalete.
In these mines, one of the factors
of great importance for the later
economic development of Bizkaia was
the difference between mine owners
(mostly local) and leaseholders who
worked them (usually foreign capital
companies). Most of the capital
accumulated by local land-owning
families was destined for reinvestment
in industrial infrastructures on the
banks of the river.
65
Walk 3
Heritage
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
THE GREAT IRON MINE:
CONCHA II OR BODOVALLE
66
This walk ends at the enormous hole left by the last
iron mine in operation: the Concha II mine (when it was
operated by the Franco-Belga company) or Bodovalle
(under the control of Agruminsa) (4). Its opening in 1960
marked the total displacement of the old town of Gallarta,
and the town you can see today is almost entirely the
result of this move. It was operated by the Altos Hornos
de Vizcaya iron and steel company through its subsidiary
Agruminsa until it closed in 1993 because it was not
profitable.
The Mining Museum, with its old building in the old slaughterhouse
of Gallarta and the building work on its spectacular new extension
overlooking the mine.
67
With 500 workers, in the 1970s it became the second largest
iron mine in Europe. The mine you can see is 700m long, 350
m wide and 150 m deep. The bottom is 37 m below sea level,
which explains the current flooding with the water that can
be seen at the bottom.
This is the result of having used up the iron ore on the
surface, which meant that operating permits were obtained
in 1984 for underground galleries stretching over 50 km
below the surface. Inside, it contains great chambers as big
as a cathedral.
Next to the mine is the building of the old slaughterhouse,
now the Mining Museum (5) (www.meatzaldea.eus) and
its future extension next to with its spectacular balcony
overlooking the mine pit. This Museum explains the use of
iron in various historical periods but basically it focuses on
explaining the items that were recovered when the mines
were abandoned.
It is worth looking at the model that explains the change of
location of the town of Gallarta and its replacement by the
Bodovalle mine, and the model which explains the profusion
of individualized miners’ transports of all kinds allocated
to each mining company, illustrating to a great extent
the radical change in the landscape well beyond mining
activities.
The old town of Gallarta was demolished in 1960 with dynamite
to make way for the Concha II or Bodovalle mine.
Walk 3
Heritage
Cable railway and distribution facilities of the Franco-Belga company in Ortuella (1912).
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
04
ORTUELLA
ROUTE: 2.5 KM
Take the road that goes downhill next to the
Mining Museum. You walk through an area
that has now been turned into an industrial
estate, but which previously was full of the
kilns, washeries and other mining facilities,
and you reach Ortuella station, with its
train line that runs down to Bilbao.
Ortuella was the main distribution centre of iron ore to
the loaders along the river. There used to be 23 loaders,
but only this one in Barakaldo belonging to the FrancoBelga company has been rebuilt.
Apold-Fleissner kiln opposite the Sagrada Familia station.
Ortuella was a crucial point in redirecting
the ore to the many loading points along
the river. Opposite the station, if you
cross the railway lines, you can see a kiln
(6) datado a mediados del s. XX. Pero el
conjunto dating from the middle of the
twentieth century. However, the most
68 interesting rehabilitated set of buildings is
1 km away, in the Granada industrial estate;
two Apold-Fleissner kilns (7) converted
into a centre for the interpretation of
this technology and declared of Cultural
Interest in 2008. Built in 1961 by the
Franco-Belga company, they are formed
of twin buildings which contain the kilns
and a central structure attached to them.
Moreover, there were metal stairs on the
outside, allowing access to some floors
from others and access to the different
platforms, now gone.
It was for calcining iron carbonate, in
order to achieve higher grade ore. The
ore was transformed using hot air at
800°C, blown directly in by blowers at half
height, and its construction was inspired
by Austrian and Italian models, adapted to
the specific needs of the Biscayan ore. This
new production system was an evolution
over the old kilns, allowing effective
transformation of the ore without needing
to mix the load with any fuel, which gave
better results.
To return to Bilbao, you can catch the train
at the nearby station of Sagrada Familia.
69
This kiln worked at full capacity in the years 1961-1975.
Its function was the calcination of iron carbonate to
produce higher grade ore. It could produce up to 600
tons a day.
Between 1873 and 1912, four laws were passed to protect both women (who worked in
the ore washeries and in haulage) and children (who worked in the wells from the age
of 11) from labour abuses. These laws took years to be obeyed.
In the photo, women at the Orconera washery. 1930s.
Walk 3
Industry IRON:
HIERRO:
THEELRED
ORO
Heritage
ROJO
GOLD DE
OF BIZKAIA
Work at the Amalia Vizcaína mine, c. 1920.
EXTENSION 1
MINING REMAINS BETWEEN
KOBARON AND POBEÑA
ROUTE: 10 KM FROM ORTUELLA
70
You have to go to the neighbourhoods
of either Pobeña or Kobaron in Muskiz,
both located on the coast. This walk has
two ends linked by a cliff path that uses
the route of the old mining railway for the
mines run by Joseph MacLennan (2.4 km).
At the top of the cliff at Pobeña (8) you
will see the remains of the Orconera
washery, which was connected to the
mines of La Arboleda by Europe’s largest
aerial tramway of the time (8 km). It was
in operation between 1910 and 1945. The
same aerial tramway was used for the
return of the ore after it had been washed
using sea water; it was then moved to the
company loaders in the river using the
mining railway.
Oddly, the loader (operating until 1963)
which is below the Orconera company
installations belonged to the MacLennan
company, which owned several mines in
the area of Kobaron. It is a good example
of the lack of collaboration between
different companies for the mutual use of
infrastructures.
71
Current state of the kilns.
In Kobaron you will see remnants of
equipment and facilities of various mines
(the Amalia Vizcaína, the Josefa and the
Demasía a Complemento). They began
mining there in the 1880s and closed 90
years later.
El Castillo loader (1877), of
the MacLennan mine, in full
operation in 1908.
Current state.
Orconera aerial tramway over the marshes at Pobeña; you can see the
washery section at the top of the hill.
Walk 3
Industry IRON:
HIERRO:
THEELRED
ORO
Heritage
ROJO
GOLD DE
OF BIZKAIA
This is a Historical Monument (9) because of its historical value.
EXTENSION 2
To get there by car, you must take the Santander road to Muskiz, the next
town. Take the road to Sopuerta, and 4 km further on you will see the car
park at the entrance to this building. Here you can see a real demonstration
of how iron was worked before industrialised production.
EL POBAL FOUNDRY
As a Museum, it is the only surviving example of hundreds of river ironworks
in Bizkaia; it was here that they produced the famous ‘Bizkaian iron’.
ROUTE: 10 KM FROM ORTUELLA
72
73
Hydraulic machinery.
Forge area.
Founded in the 16th century, it stayed in production as the last ironworks with
the manufacture of tools, implements and wagons until its closure in 1965,
when it was unable to compete with industrialized products.
www.elpobal.com
Closed on Mondays. Saturdays: live demonstrations of iron production.
Walk 3
Heritage
GOLD OF BIZKAIA
EXTENSION 3
LA ENCARTADA
TEXTILE FACTORY
ROUTE: 18 KM FROM EL POBAL
Office accounting annexe of the production workshop.
Located just outside the medieval town of Balmaseda, it is an
authentic temple to industry (10) with a factory that has been
turned into a museum, its infrastructure and machinery kept
intact since 1892.
74
Precisely because it used the same machinery until its closure
in 1992, it is a gem; you can see the technology of the era in situ
with fidelity that is very hard to find in other places.
Until its closure, La Encartada maintained a complete
production line and facilities for staff that made it a small
industrial colony. They bought the wool raw, spun it and then
turned it into berets (its main product), blankets, towels,
scarves, socks, skeins or balaclavas.
Closed on Mondays.
Wool carding machines using dried thistles.
www.laencartadamuseoa.com
75
Walk 4
ONE RIVER,
TWO WORLDS
ASSESSMENT
ROUTE
12 km
UNMISSABLE
01_Barakaldo. The industrial leader
02_Sestao. The factory city
03_Portugalete. Fusion of both sides of the river
04_Getxo. The mansions of the industrialists
“I do not think there’s anything
in the Peninsula that would give
a greater impression of strength,
work and energy as these fourteen
or fifteen kilometres of waterway”
(Pío Baroja)
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
26
HOW TO GET THERE
Metro: Bagatza. Leave the metro
station by the G. Aresti street exit.
25
16
10
12
78
11
13
24
9
14
7
8
15
23
6
4
2
3
5
22
21
1
20
19
18
17
79
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
A SUCCESSION OF “CHEAP
HOUSES”
TWO WORLDS
01
BARAKALDO.
THE INDUSTRIAL
LEADER
THE CHEAP HOUSES: HUMANIST
ARCHITECTURE
The name does not refer to cost of the houses. It is a name
of the laws enacted in the first third of the 20th century; these
laws reflected the state aid given to promotions driven by
workers’ cooperatives or by the companies for their workers.
ROUTE: 1.3 KM
ACCESS: METRO TO THE BAGATZA STATION.
LEAVE THE STATION BY THE GABRIEL ARESTI
STREET EXIT.
Most of the names of these housing groups were a
reflection of the aspirations or ethical values of the time.
START OF THE ROUTE: GABRIEL ARESTI STREET TOWARDS THE RIVER - SAN JOSÉ STREET – FERRERÍAS
STREET - MUNIBE STREET- CERVANTES STREET.
Barakaldo and Sestao were home to most of the heavy industry of Bizkaia, and during much of the twentieth century
80 had the largest concentration of the iron and steel industry in Spain. These were factories that filled the river plain
(where this route takes you), and the inland valley on the other side of the hills where both these towns are located.
A reflection of this intensive industrial employment was the proliferation of residential groups that went under the
name of “casas baratas”. Both towns harbour almost 50% of all these houses in all Bizkaia, although many of these
houses were replaced by buildings with higher density to accommodate the large influx of immigrants in the 1950s
and 60s. In fact, along with the provincial capital, Bilbao, and Getxo with its palaces, these towns present the finest
examples of residential and public architecture that arose out of industrialization.
Group of cheap houses built in 1920. From left to right: Group “El Ahorro” (Saving), “La Felicidad” (Happiness), “La Providencia”
(Providence) and “La Tribu Moderna” (The Modern Tribe). In the photograph of the latter, dating from the 1960s, the tracks of
the Franco-Belga mining railway can still be seen, and its present appearance after the rails were replaced by a cycle path.
The types include all kinds of constructions: blocks of flats,
terraced houses and detached houses.
Their configuration, structure and
level of finish were different depending
on the income of the workers,
technicians or employees.
These groups of houses, of which
there are still over 50 throughout
Bizkaia, followed similar proposals
carried out in France and
Britain, and reflected the
three-pronged approach of
the Hygienist movement in
response to the overcrowding
of the working classes; air,
sunlight and water.
In the section that begins this route,
you can see different types of this
sort of social building, all designed by
Ismael Gorostiza. At the corner of Gabriel
Aresti, in the direction of the route,
you see the group of houses called “El
Ahorro” (1) in the street of the same
name on the right; to the left, the houses
of “La Felicidad”, also with a ground floor
and 3 upper floors.
At the next junction, “La Providencia”,
still has examples of semi-detached
low-rise housing. Lower down, in
Ferrerías street, there remains one of
the finest groups: “La Tribu Moderna”
(2), a residential group organized around
courtyards of 4 houses with a small
garden and a rear courtyard.
Ismael Gorostiza (1879-1965)
Other works:
• Miranda Foundation (now the Music School). St.
Vicente-Barakaldo (1911).
• Los Hermanos School (1915).
• La Unión Begoñesa. Bilbao (1925).
• Bide-Onera Consumer Group department store.
Barakaldo (1926).
• Barakaldo market (1928).
• Santa Ana group of houses. Bilbao (1928) (p. 50).
• Large numbers of houses and cooperative housing
groups (La Tribu Moderna, El Porvenir, La Familiar,
El Hogar Futuro, El Buen Pastor...).
81
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
Santos Zunzunegui
(1875-1945)
Sestao municipal architect for 32
years.
Other works:
82
• Charles VII Municipal School (now
the Music School). Sestao (1912)
(p 93).
• Ramón Vicuña House on the
esplanade of Portugalete (1915) (p.
100).
• Large numbers of houses and
cooperative housing groups (La
Esperanza, La Humanitaria, La
Unión, La Protectora, La Aurora…)
in the area.
• Iberia cinema (1930). Now gone.
• Restoration of Portugalete Hotel
(1938) (p. 96).
Murrieta houses, built in different phases.
Munibe street continues and turns into Cervantes
street, which runs down to the park where formerly
part of the plant of Altos Hornos de Vizcaya (AHV),
steelworks was located, the central symbol of the
productive wealth of the region.
Moving towards the river Galindo we see
on our right the ‘classical temple’ called
the Edificio Ilgner (5); from 1927 it housed
the 2 generators that provided power for
the rolling mills of Altos Hornos.
Before passing under the railway tracks, you can
see in Murrieta street (3) a group of houses that
illustrate the architectural richness of that time
in Barakaldo. They are Modernist buildings, in a
Viennese variant, dating from different phases
between 1914 and 1924 and designed by the other
great architect of the area: Santos Zunzunegui.
It is noted for its rationalism in the
use of reinforced concrete without any
ornamentation, with walls pierced by long
windows that help to create a feeling of
lightness. Its textural quality is endorsed
by the use of brick in the cladding.
THE DESIERTO PLAIN
After crossing under the railway track, we arrive
at what used to be the installations of AHV, an
esplanade which is the extension of the ‘new’
Barakaldo for residential, business and leisure
purposes. The first thing you can see is the new
football pitch of Lasesarre (4), designed by Eduardo
Arroyo and opened in 2003. It replaces the old pitch
located across the railway line, where there is a
sports centre today and where for decades the fans
of Barakaldo FC used to sit among the smells and
smoke of the businesses in the area.
Contemporary architecture at the Lasesarre football field.
After its rehabilitation in 1998, it now
houses the headquarters of several
new business initiatives, and one of the
original generators has been preserved
inside. It is one of the best examples
of the conversion of an outstanding
industrial building for new uses.
Opposite the Ilgner there are 2 bridges
spanning the river Galindo; the town of
Sestao is on the other side.
This meeting point of the river Galindo
and the river Nervión was for much of
the 20th century the largest concentration
of industry in the whole of Spain. Behind
you, on the side belonging to Barakaldo,
was the steelworks Nuestra Señora
de El Carmen en 1855 (which became
Altos Hornos de Bilbao in 1882). Along
with the steelworks of La Vizcaya and La
Iberia (both in Sestao), they would end
up merging into the great company Altos
Hornos de Vizcaya in 1902. Ahead, the
whole of the bank of the Nervión on the
Sestao side was a conglomeration of three
large companies (the Aurrera foundry,
the La Naval shipyard and AHV itself) with
many workshops and auxiliary services
around.
External and
internal view of the
restoration of the
Ilgner Building.
In the 1940s at full
capacity with its
two generators.
83
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
02
TWO WORLDS
Model of an AHV locomotive (1970) similar to
the one you can see across the bridge (6).
SESTAO. THE
FACTORY CITY
ROUTE: 4 KM
On the other side of the pedestrian bridge you will find one of the
many steam engines that were used in AHV.
The beginning of “La Punta” area was occupied by two large
companies that lay between the Altos Hornos de Vizcaya factory in
Barakaldo and the two AHV plants in Sestao: the land abandoned in
1999 by the Aurrera foundry created in 1885, and the area marked by
large cranes that can be seen in the grounds of La Naval shipyard.
THE LAST GREAT SHIPYARD ON THE RIVER
84
The confluence
of the river
Galindo with the
river Nervión is
known locally as
“La Punta”. In
both photos (in
the 1910s and
1960s) you can
see the silhouette
of the church
of El Carmen,
demolished in
1974 to expand the
coal depot of Altos
Hornos de Vizcaya,
whose size can be
seen in the modern
photograph.
La Naval (7) is the last great shipyard on the river after the closure
of the Euskalduna in Bilbao. It began operation in 1916 from the
previous company Nervión Shipyards, founded in 1888 and pioneers
in the construction of steel ships.
During the twentieth century, the river of Galindo and the Nervión itself were
among the most polluted waterways in Europe. The enormous importance of
this production area meant that, during the Civil War, the demolition of these
iron and steel emporiums was mooted so that they would not fall into the hands
of Franco’s troops (1937). Finally, the Basque government of the time chose to
leave them operating with the argument that its disappearance would bring
more hardship to a population that was already in great need.
85
The effects of the disappearance or reduction of these industries make this part
of the route both interesting and educational and also aesthetically hard.
We are in a region with the highest rates of unemployment in the Basque
Country, and Sestao has the highest rate (18%) with a population loss of 30%
since the end of the great companies around it during the 1980s and 1990s.
The town is located high on a hill, surrounded by the river Nervión Valley (where
we are now) and the course of the river Galindo on the other side.
Both valleys were the site of large companies including Altos Hornos de
Bizkaia, Babcock&Wilcox, General Eléctrica, La Naval and Aurrera which
employed about 40,000 people in the 1970s. Today because of closures or a
drastic reduction in the workforce (as in the case of La Naval or the new Acería
Compacta), compact steelworks), and even with the recent opening of new
companies, only about 2,000 jobs have remained.
This part of the route passes through the area most directly linked to the nowdefunct Altos Hornos and, after the effort made in Barakaldo, the regeneration
process for Sestao is in full implementation, with a plan to redevelop derelict
premises and land, restore houses that have deteriorated over time, boost trade
and services, and so on.
One of the dry docks.
Launching the tanker Zaragoza in
1968.
Sailing out for the sea trial of a mining
ship in 2013.
View of the shipyard in 1919 with the
cruise ship Alfonso XIII on the slipway.
Of its facilities, it is worth noting their building halls, the offices
designed by Manuel Mª de Smith and especially dry dock no. 1
which, although substantially modified, belonged to the original
shipyard. Its great dimensions measure 26-35 m wide, 150 m
long and 1 m deep with the oldest closing caisson in Spain, are
the result of the design of facilities aimed to compete for orders
for a new naval fleet in the late nineteenth century. As in the
case of the shipyard located in Bilbao (Euskalduna), its facilities
were also used to produce other articles, including railway
rolling stock, cars, cranes...
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
Late 19th century, the three
companies that merged
to create Altos Hornos de
Vizcaya in 1902.
TWO WORLDS
THE INDUSTRIAL FLAGSHIP:
ALTOS HORNOS DE VIZCAYA
Altos Hornos de Vizcaya was founded
in 1902 as a result of the merger of
three previous steel companies (Altos
Hornos de Bilbao, La Vizcaya and La
Iberia) and, after purchasing the factory
of San Francisco (1879) it became the
most important company in Spain in
the first half of the twentieth century. It
closed its doors for ever in 1996 and the
land in Sestao is now occupied by the
ArcelorMitall facilities of the Bizkaia
Compact Steelworks.
Altos Hornos de Bilbao steelworks in Barakaldo (1882), formerly the
Nuestra Señora del Carmen company (1855).
The coal was loaded into machines that
fed the coke ovens.
1918 advertisement.
Altos Hornos was one of the great
landowners in Spain, as it owned large
mines and became the main shareholder
in other steel companies in the country.
86
For the production of ammonium sulphate
there were two sets of tanks to distil
ammonia solution. There, the acid was
shaken and passed through electric
heaters until the sulphate crystals
solidified.
In 1960, at the peak of its operation,
17,000 workers worked there. In this
area it eventually had 4 large production
centres; the three described when it
was created and a fourth devoted to the
production of hot rolled metal which
opened in 1966 on the plain of Ansio,
located in the interior valley of Barakaldo.
It was a fully-equipped steel mill that
turned the iron ore into semi-finished
steel products.
La Iberia in Sestao (1890).
1,000 ton coke ovens. 1950s.
Once the cast iron had been made, the
next step was to turn it into steel and for
that transformer furnaces were used.
Starting with the emerging ingots, all
kinds of rolled products were made in the
rolling mills.
The process in this part was as follows:
the steel was poured into a ladle and was
transported by a crane over a series of
ingot moulds. At the bottom a valve was
opened and a stream of steel poured out
and filled the moulds. When the liquid
steel solidified it became an ingot, which
was the first solid appearance of the steel.
Later it was separated from the moulds
using cranes equipped with pincers. The
ingots were piled up in vertical heatresistant barrels in which they remained
at high temperatures until they were used.
PRODUCTION SYSTEM OF A FULLYEQUIPPED STEELMILL*
From the beginning, it had enough coke
ovens to be self-sufficient in coke.
Numerous types of coal were piled up
in silos and from there they were fed
through hoppers onto conveyor belts
carrying the coal to be ground up; there,
after removing the ashes, the coal was
classified according to its quality and
origin. Then it passed to the cooling
towers, located above the coke ovens.
The ovens were lined up so as to not
lose heat as a result of irradiation. Each
oven was heated with gas from a small
adjoining room and one burning session
was carried out after another, nearly half
of the load. The volatile elements released
in the process were used as chemical
by-products. After finishing the coking
process, the coke was withdrawn from the
retort oven and it was cooled rapidly on
the surface; this was done with a cooling
tower. The coke was then cut and sieved
and depending on its granulometry it was
sent to the blast furnace or the different
sections of the factory.
La Vizcaya (1882) at the end of the quay in Sestao.
1904. 10,000hp machine for the rolling mill.
*Texts: hiru.com
87
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
Sestao facilities at full capacity c. 1965.
Panoramic view of the AHV facilities in
the 1970s in this part of the river. You can
see one of the two factories in Barakaldo
and the two in Sestao. AHV had other
factories in Etxebarri (Bizkaia) and
Lesaka (Navarra).
Letterhead in 1911.
Bessemer converters in the 1940s.
88
Panoramic view of the Sestao factories c.1930.
Shipment area for corrugated steel, bars and
rods (1940s).
Throughout the twentieth century, the life of the
towns on the banks of the Nervión was marked by
the activity of the AHV steelworks. As a popular
song went, its “furnaces illuminate all Bilbao”,
which was a real effect whenever the Bessemer
converters poured the cast iron and the sky
turned a red that was visible over 12 km away.
Cast iron. 1990s.
89
Part of this legacy can be observed in the walk
through Sestao. In Txabarri street we pass the
old first aid post (8) and 200 m further on, the old
School of Apprentices (9), with the company logo
on the bars over its windows.
The School of Apprentices trained people in
many areas. Forging and technical drawing
practice (1940s). The combination of study
and work in the company, meant they had
highly qualified workers available.
90
Now in the rolling process, the hot
ingots passed through powerful
rotating cylinders which narrowed
and stretched the section of the
The School of
Apprentices
ingot under pressure. In another
building in the
part of the steelworks, in the
structural mills, the bloom (a square 1970s. Modern
close-up of the
plate of steel) was rolled for both
metal bars with the
heavy construction (rails, bridges,
company logo on
structures for buildings and ships)
the windows.
and for commercial purposes. To
manage this, they had roughing
mills with two cylinders that rolled counterclockwise
around the ingot: as the surface had grooves, the ingot
passed through the mills several times, once for each
groove until it was gradually reduced in thickness. After
rolling, the blooms were cut into particular lengths,
depending on the purpose that they were intended for, to
move them to the rolling mill and give them the desired
shape.
In the mid 80s, the continuous casting process was
introduced. Thus, a new steelwork concept was born.
1890 building with a gate designed for
access to the stables.
The corner of Txabarri street with La
Iberia street in the 1950s.
Walking along Rivas street and Txabarri street, we can
imagine the enormous, complex installations of this
company in what is now ArcelorMittal. Its profound
interaction with the surrounding municipalities (especially
intense in this town) can be seen perfectly in this street.
Txabarri was the main road of Sestao, where its most
emblematic houses were, which, ironically, suffered the
greatest pollution from being in the vicinity of the factory.
Here the first horse-drawn ‘blood’ tram ran between
Bilbao and Santurtzi, opened in 1882, and an electric tram
14 years later. In between, 1888 saw the opening of the
railway between Bilbao and Portugalete, which still runs
along the bottom of this valley.
The great company not only occupied most of the surface
of this whole area but it also became a property promoter
for groups of houses until 1965; it created schools,
consumer cooperatives, hospitals and leisure centres. In
short, a whole infrastructure that generally saturated the
urban areas of Barakaldo and Sestao.
As in other large companies, this school combined
studies with intensive in-house practice to train
generations of qualified operators to exactly fit the
needs of each company. They could be considered
the forerunner of today’s vocational training.
After this building Blast Furnace No. 1 (10) ) of
1959 rises majestically, the only one left of the 3
that were here, and whose restoration is designed
to make it an interpretation centre for the steel
industry.
The furnaces were vertical constructions. They
were made of a vat covered with welded plate, a
shell lined with refractory material.
The total height of the furnace is 80 m and its
diameter is 18 m. The main technical features
of this construction are its support on a circular
beam, the crucible of 6.5 m in diameter, 25 m
interior height with a useable interior volume of
757 m3, and the Wurth double bell-mouth inlet
ducts for better distribution of internal loads and
for preventing gas leaks.
91
The oven has a series of auxiliary elements
necessary for its operation, of which you can still
see the three ovens with their chimneys, the flue
gas ducts with dust separators, the cable railway
for loading the furnace and the casting hall.
The 31 m-high Didier furnaces were forced air
intake furnaces, each with 21,247 m2 of heating
surface. The gas produced by the furnace was
taken away by the outlet tubes, arranged in pairs,
which flowed out to a collector and led the gas to
a dry filter, reusing part of it to heat the furnaces.
For transporting loads of ore, additives and coke,
a wagon or skip was used, which was moved by
a winch up a slope from a pit in the ground to the
feed point at the top of the blast furnace.
View from the river of the steelworks and three blast
furnaces in 1980. The twin furnaces No. 1 of 1959 (below
in its current restoration process) and No. 2 of 1968,
replaced four previous furnaces of smaller capacity.
In the casting hall where the slag and pig iron
were collected, channels or gullies were used to
pour them into ladles for casting; also, there was
a pneumatic drill and an electric gun, which were
used for opening and closing the tap hole.
Throughout its history, Altos Hornos de Vizcaya exported its steel to more than 50 countries.
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN
Sestao concentrates its population on
the two sides of the hill that separates
the river Nervión from the inland
valley of the river Galindo where two
other large companies were located:
Babcock&Wilcox, dedicada which
produced capital goods, and General
Eléctrica which made energy equipment
and whose original halls are now
partially occupied by the multinational
ABB.
Old school of Charles VII (now the
Music School) in 1985 and current
state of the old Berria cooperative.
Back at the Gran Vía abordamos we go
down the second street on the left (Los
Baños street) to see various different
types of houses again, still linked to the
industrial development of the area and the
population explosion that happened as a
result.
To cope with the steep slopes, you can
make use of the mechanical ramps in
La Iberia street connecting Txabarri
street to the top of the hill.
The second junction is La Unión street
(13) which is named after a group of
terraced houses that run down from this
corner of the street. This was another
work by Santos Zunzunegui, built, as
shown on its ceramic plaque, between
1923 and 1925.
Once at the top, the first thing you see
is what is now the music school (11),
painted green and burgundy. Its original
function, until 1987, was as the old
schoolhouse.
92
State of the corrala houses
“La Galana” in the 1970s. It is a work of 1912 designed by Santos
Zunzunegui (p. 82), the other great local
architect of the left bank along with
Ismael Gorostiza (p. 81). Curiously, on
the corner of La Iberia street you can
see a notice board where the deaths
that have occurred in the town are
announced, a striking custom of the
area.
Just across the street (the Gran Vía or
high street of the town), is a square with
the building in which the first consumer
cooperative was reinstalled in the
Basque Country (12).
Visit of the Minister to the social
houses La Humanitaria in 1926.
Industrial units at Babcock & Wilcox in the plain of the Galindo. It was
in operation in Sestao from 1920 until its closure in the early 1990s.
Inside one of the halls in 1970 used for the production of trains, one
line among the many capital goods it produced.
Created by the steelworkers of La Vizcaya
S.A. in 1887, this building, also designed
by Santos Zunzunegui, was built when
the cooperative moved to the upper
area of the municipality in the 1920s.
It is interesting to note the concrete
reproduction of rivets that mimic a
metallic style.
Near the bottom is the ‘corrala’ corridored
house known as “La Galana” (14). It is
a restored building defined by the fact
that the doors of all the flats led out onto
a communal corridor where, in its time,
the toilets were located in one corner. It
was a model of house which was halfway
between the previous huts and later types
of housing. La Galana is the last evidence
left of this type of construction in the last
third of the nineteenth century in Bizkaia.
Before continuing this route along the
river, we recommend that you go back to
the Gran Via and walk 200m to the left (up
the small hill) to see 2 other groups of
cheap houses on either side of the street.
La Protectora and La Humanitaria (15)
will be the last groups of “cheap houses”
we see on our walk; both groups have the
characteristic English style of the area
in the 1920s and, as already mentioned,
were a milestone in the quality of life of
its inhabitants, under the guidance of
humanist architecture.
93
03
PORTUGALETE. FUSION OF BOTH SIDES
OF THE RIVER
ROUTE: 3 KM
La Benedicta dockside in the 1970s.
The route requires us to walk down to the level of the river. We can do it by going down
La Iberia street to the bottom or simply going down between any of the streets to see, in
all its intensity, the jumbled urban planning that led Sestao to be considered in the 1960s
and 1970s one of the points of highest urban density in Europe.
You go down La Iberia street or by the viaduct next to the Blast Furnace down to the quay
of La Benedicta (16), going round the most recent part of the Compact Steelworks of
Bizkaia (ACB).
This is as far as AHV extended towards the sea: mineral loaders, freight and passenger
railways, cargo ships, tugboats, barges (barge ships of up to 400 tons to transport slag or
coal), eternally leaden grey skies, the furnace mouths glistening in the sky and extreme
acoustic, water and air pollution...
94
It was a local vision of hell that remained for almost a century and employed thousands
of people in an intensive occupation that will never be seen again. An industrial
conglomerate that occupied the banks of the river and, as in the case of Bilbao and
Barakaldo, made access for the local people to the river difficult. Today, some of these
factories have been converted into a convenient, view-filled pedestrian path that joins
Sestao and Portugalete, and extends to the next town of Santurtzi. From here you can
see the great icon of the area: the Puente Bizkaia, the first industrial work in operation
recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2006.
This town was founded in 1322, only 22
years after Bilbao, and it is dominated
by the Basílica of Santa María (15th
century) which is Gothic with Renaissance
influences, and the tower of the Salazar
family (14th century), which are both in the
same square at the top of the old town.
These were two centuries in which the
town underwent remarkable development,
but it went into decline when Bilbao
started to monopolise the activity on the
river. In the twentieth century, Portugalete
merges the concept of spa town (typical of
the opposite bank) at its lowest level down
by the river, with high residential density
at its highest point (similar to that of the
manufacturing towns previously visited).
On the way to the transporter bridge, we
will see the scant remains of the stone
loaders of the Galdames mining railway
and, a little further on, in what used to
be the building for the port authorities,
the Rialia Industrial Museum (www.
rialia.net), dedicated to collections and
memories of the activity of AHV.
From the era of industrialisation,
Portugalete has two listed monuments. One, the famous bridge
and the other, the Iron Pier, which solved navigability problems
that the river had had for centuries and that became the great exit
point for the products extracted or manufactured upriver.
Once you enter the old quarter, you will see a building strikingly
painted in yellow and blue. It was the old train terminus La Canilla
(17) designed by Pablo Alzola (p. 28) in 1888 as the terminus station of
the Bilbao-Portugalete railway line before the train line was extended
to Santurtzi in 1926. It currently houses the town’s tourist office.
La Benedicta in 1909 with the view of the La Vizcaya and La Iberia
steelworks (already part of AHV) and loaders of the Galdames
Railway (Bilbao River & Cantabrian Railway Co Ltd), by which iron
ore was transported until 1946.
95
Just 50 metres ahead on the riverside there still exists a system
of alternative transport to the transporter bridge: the motorboats
that also connect both sides.
In the 1970s there were up to 7 crossing points on the river for
ferries between Bilbao and Santurtzi. Today there is only this one,
and the one at the quay in Desierto, in Barakaldo.
La Canilla station at its opening
(1888) and now, converted into the
town tourist office.
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
Above is the Plaza del Ayuntamiento or Town Hall Square. In the
background you can see the Bustamante House (18) designed in
1910 by the Cantabrian architect Leonardo Rucabado with clear
influences of Catalan Modernism.
From this square, from the corner of the Gran Hotel, continue
the walk along the river, where you can see a variety of large
houses and mansions.
Facade of the Town Hall and Casa
Bustamante at the entrance to
the Old Quarter.
In 1887 Alberto de Palacio met the
contractor Ferdinand Arnodin. The
Frenchman was attracted by Palacio’s
project and provided techniques for
suspension bridges with cables that he
had developed in his earlier projects.
Thus, the “Vizcaya Bridge” in terms of
Transporter was Palacio’s invention, and
in terms of Suspension was Arnodin’s.
Fortunately it was both at the same time
and that’s what made it original and new.
As new as the money that financed
its construction. At a time when
multimillionaire fortunes were being
forged at the edge of the river, none of
the mining magnates nor the richest
ship owners, none of the bankers nor
any of the wealthy patrons of the biggest
steelmaking centre in the peninsula
risked getting involved in this project to
connect the two sides of the river with an
iron bridge.
THE GREAT ICON OF INDUSTRIAL SOCIETY:
DREAM OR BUSINESS?*
96
The Bizkaia Bridge (19) embodies both. It is a transporter toll
bridge, conceived, designed and built by the private sector
between 1887 and 1893, linking the two banks of the Nervión
River and was the first of its type in the world. Its construction
was due to the need to link the existing spa resorts on both sides
of the river, for the industrial bourgeoisie and tourists of the late
nineteenth century.
The absolute novelty of the project made
the great names in the financial pantheon
of Bilbao look on it sceptically. Neither
did they see a lucrative business in the
transport of passengers over short
distances. It would be twelve modest
businessmen linked to trade and light
industry who would embark on the
adventure. Among them, one stands out
as the true entrepreneur of the work:
Santos López de Letona.
The role of López de Letona is worth
emphasizing, because it embodies
an archetype of Basque economic
tradition: the figure of the ‘indiano’, the
rich emigrant who made his money in
America.
Returning to Europe with a healthy
fortune, he decided to invest in the project
of the Transporter Bridge, which goes to
show his forward thinking and confidence
in industrial progress.
In addition to being the one who brought
the most capital to the venture, he
imposed his serene, rigorous spirit and
managed to dispel the disputes that arose
between Palace, Arnodin and partners
of the Company. And there were many,
because the construction of the “Vizcaya
Bridge” proved slow, complex and not
without controversy between the forces
involved. It did not follow the initial project
plan in the technical conditions, the
budget or the deadlines.
Suffice to say that although work began
amid great optimism on August 4th, 1890,
in 1891 they progressed with agonizing
slowness, due to legal problems, the
reluctance of the builder and the mistrust
of the partners.
So much so that there were times when
the very existence of the monument hung
by a thread.
*Texts: euskadi.eus
Alberto de Palacio’s plans. His visionary character led him, at
that time, to propose cafes and restaurants, elevators and a
walkway above.
Photograph in the year of its
inauguration (1893).
1895. Battleship María Teresa, launched
in the Nervión Shipyards in 1890.
Alberto de Palacio
y Elissague
(1856-1939)
Other works:
• The Crystal Palace in
El Retiro Park. Madrid
(1887).
• Atocha station with
engineer Saint-James.
Madrid (1888-1892)
• Bank of Spain. Madrid
(1884-1891).
97
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
TWO WORLDS
98
99
Differences between the technical director (Palacio)
and the contractor (Arnodin) began almost
immediately. Arnodin acted with an entrepreneurial
mentality, while Palacio saw the bridge as the pursuit
of a personal dream that it was always possible to
improve, with plans that he never took for definitive.
It was inevitable that the inflexible pragmatism of
the Frenchman would collide with the boundless
youthful imagination of the Basque. The investors
did not understand this tense dialogue between the
creator and the dealer, and watched the struggle with
distrust. Added to this was the anguish of thinking
that their savings would vanish if the government did
not renew their work permits because of the delays.
The work was so new and the architect’s mind so
active that the transporter bridge changed and
mutated as he went along. He understood that he
could exploit the potential of the structure as a
leisure resource and make it part of the landscape of
the summer amusements of the beaches of El Abra.
The partners were delighted with the idea, but
Arnodin responded with great reluctance; for him the
original plan was “a light economic construction”.
Palacio and Arnodin ploughed ahead together, almost
always with many doubts and reproaching each other
for the delays; one accusing the other of being slow
in manufacturing and the other diagnosing him with
an incurable ‘maladie des changements’, or disease
of changes.
But amid all the problems, the group of men set on
the construction of the “Vizcaya Bridge” was held
together by the contagious faith of Alberto de Palacio
in his project and by a unanimous feeling of being
involved in a transcendent work. They were not
mistaken.
On July 15th 1893, the last missing piece to complete
the gigantic meccano arrived: a “Henri David” water
pump made in Orleans. Everything was quickly
mounted on a platform above the arches of the
first floor of a nearby building and on the 24th the
bridge was ready to be tested. The machinery started
with a tremble, the gondola started moving, the
cables tightened and yet the great metal skeleton
remained rigid, without deflections or vibration. The
bridge worked. And it still does today. It even offers
the possibility of crossing the river along its upper
walkway, with its superb views of the river and the
river mouth.
With the opening
of the Iron Pier,
the ‘tidal clock’
gauge quickly
became a simple
striking object
that has survived
to this day.
100
The house of the
businessman
and nationalist
politician
Ramón Vicuña
is perhaps the
best example
of the profusion
of mansions on
this part of the
walk. Built in
1915 by Santos
Zunzunegui
(p. 82) in the
regionalist style,
it is interesting
to note the
coffered ceiling
under the eaves
and two side
towers with a
covered balcony.
beachside houses on the hill now
converted into hotels and municipal
services.
It was a model for other similar bridges around the world later. There are numerous
panels around it explaining its details, the process of construction or the repair after
the Spanish Civil War. It works continuously every day of the year 24 hours a day. Its
current colour was inspired by the red hematite iron seam of Somorrostro.
THE IRON PIER: THE CONSTRUCTION THAT DROVE THE
DEVELOPMENT OF BIZKAIA
Now, we will just go past it to get to the other great jewel of this trip: the Iron Pier (21).
In addition to the imposing bourgeois houses of the late nineteenth and early twentieth
century, on the walk you will see a clock that is actually a tide gauge (20) installed only
two years before the opening of the Iron Pier.
This beach was connected to the opposite
bank by a sand bar that, throughout
history, made it very difficult to navigate
the river; the dreaded Portugalete sand
bar - also known as the school for
shipwrecks – made of shifting sands
that hindered navigation periodically,
sometimes making it impossible at low
tide (with depths of only 1 m).
For the construction of the infrastructure,
which then faced the open sea, he did not
have much money or time, so he decided to
put up an iron pier built on screw piles which
that little later he chose to change in the
final hundred meters, building a traditional
masonry seawall, with greater width and
height than the original six hundred metres.
The design of the quay modified the existing
currents and used them to so that the
current itself acted as the best dredge.
Centuries of dredging and cleaning were
not able to clear this important gateway to
the river of Bilbao for ships with enough
draft for the iron trade, and this explains
the profusion of unprotected loaders on
the cliffs from outside the current port
right round to the neighbouring province
of Cantabria.
The work was finished in 1887 and its
construction finally solved the problem of
navigability in the port of Bilbao, creating
an eighty metre wide step with a depth
of 4.58 m at low tide; Churruca would be
recognized for his worth in the field of
European civil engineering. It is a work that
explains exactly how the term genius is the
etymological basis of the word engineer.
Until Evaristo de Churruca was appointed
director of the Port Works Board in 1877.
We retrace our steps back to the Bizkaia
Bridge and go over to the opposite shore.
The substantial form of this structure has to be imagined today. The point of the walk
where the pier begins used to be Portugalete beach; in fact, you can see towering
The problem of the navigability
of the river can be seen in this
photo taken 4 years after the
construction of the Iron Pier
(1887) picture. Here you can
see how the sand bank from the
right side (called Las Arenas, the
sands, for that reason), made
access impossible for ships with
a deep enough draft to export the
products of the mines.
One of the design features of the pier is the sleek, lightweight
bracing in the form of a St. Andrew’s cross that supports the
pier under its first 600 m.
Beach scene
dated 1901.
Postcard dating
from the early
twentieth
century. You
can see that
there was
a seaside
atmosphere,
until the
pollution and
the transfer of
the bourgeoisie
to the opposite
shore led to the
disappearance
of the beach in
1950.
101
Walk 4
Industry ONE RIVER,
Heritage
In fact, if you walk along the bank of the
river to the beach and walk along the
whole esplanade (1,8 km) you will see
houses with an unmistakable English air.
TWO WORLDS
The main entrance of these houses are in
Zugazarte, street parallel to this, so we
recommend that you alternate the seaside
path with the road on the other side to
look at their main facades and see the
other mansions that do not overlook the
sea.
04
GETXO. THE
MANSIONS
OF THE
INDUSTRIALISTS
The succession of buildings, styles,
distributions, origin of the owners and
architects profiles is explained in 29
trilingual panels that offer a detailed
explanation, both along this esplanade
and on the walk at right-angles to this
one, below the Arriluce hill, which leads
to Ereaga beach. If any of the panels are
damaged at the time of your visit, you
can consult the enclosed booklet. It is a
Monumental Complex that was recognized
as a Heritage Site in 2011.
ROUTE: 3.5 KM
We are now in Las Arenas; one of the five
areas that make up the sprawling town
102 of Getxo. Although their social makeup is
very different between them, it contains
two of the most affluent neighbourhoods
in Spain; this one of Las Arenas and,
especially, the adjacent Neguri ((‘winter
town’ in Basque), where a large number
of palaces and mansions are to be found.
Here the cream of the Basque business
class gathered, although today there is
only one mansion that has been occupied
continuously by the same family.
Before starting this part of the walk it is
worth considering the fact that many of
these mansions were abandoned by the
families living there between the 1970s
and 1980s. The reasons can be found in
a concatenation of circumstances: the
closure of businesses they were owners
of, the excessive costs of maintaining
these large buildings and the pressure
of terrorism that for decades subjected
the elite that lived here to unbearable
pressure.
Pamphlet of the route
of the large houses and
mansions of the Getxo
areas of Las Arenas
and Neguri.
The El Abra Sailing Club, founded in 1902. Built by
Severino Achúcarro (p. 25) and destroyed by the fire
caused by an ETA terrorist attack in 1973.
As evidence of the harassment by ETA that
the Basque business classes underwent,
it is enough to look at the example of
their social club par excellence: the Club
Marítimo del Abra (22), which suffered
three terrorist attacks between 1973 and
2008. The building is located between
residential buildings and you can see
the back of it just at the end of the small
beach of Las Arenas.
As mentioned with the Iron Pier, the name
Las Arenas made direct reference to the
beaches, marshes and meadows, crossed
by numerous streams that made human
life impossible. In fact, in 1860, this area
only had 36 inhabitants, living against the
bases of the hills that surround it.
From that year maritime pines, gorse and
other plants with which to fix and hold the
soil began to be planted. In 1868, the first
spa had already been built, and this was
the gateway to the construction of houses;
first summer houses and then proper
mansions for the gentry and industrial
oligarchy.
Zugazarte Avenue. 1920.
Scenes from Las Arenas: 1880, 1900 and today
from the Bizkaia bridge walkway.
The recovery of the houses in the area
is due also to a combination of factors
that have affected their development:
occupation as head offices of companies,
conversion to hotel businesses, internal
division into flats...
Current building from 1975 by Eugenio Aguinaga and
Iñigo Eulate.
103
From left to right, the houses Cisco III, Cisco II and Cisco
I (23). The original building was built in 1909 by Manuel
Maria de Smith; the architect Eugenio de Aguinaga was
inspired by this work to build Cisco II and III in 1948..
End of the Marqués de Arriluce esplanade c. 1920. You can see houses that are no longer there, including the house of the
republican industrialist Horacio Echevarrieta which included the galleries that have survived to this day. The building was
constructed in 1911 by Gregorio de Ibarreche, while the galleries were a 1918 extension by Ricardo Bastida (p. 16).
104
105
Here and on Arrigunaga hill lived the
most celebrated industrial and financial
families in Spain: Ybarra, LezamaLeguizamón, Zabálburu, Aresti,
Delclaux, De la Sota, Lipperheide,
Zubiria, Arana… who, to show their
economic position and social impact,
hired the most famous architects of
the time: Achúcarro, Bastida, Iturria,
Garamendi, Amann… Among them, the
Anglophile Manuel María de Smith (p.
13) stands out for the quantity, diversity
and originality of his work.
This part of the walk, along the sea
front, continues along the Paseo
Marqués de Arriluce (24) at rightangles to this esplanade under the hill
of the same name.
This stretch finishes at the end of
Arrigunaga hill where the Punta
Begoña Galleries stand open in front of
the 1920s lighthouse, (the old lifeboat
station) currently occupied by the Red
Cross of the Sea.
Cisco I (1915).
And the route opens onto Ereaga beach. In the
middle stands the old Igeretxe Spa (25). The
present building was built in 1913 and is one
of the first erected in reinforced concrete. The
exterior structure appears plastered and painted
and the decoration, which formerly followed
Basque designs (false half-timbering, arched
gate in thick stonework, fire doors...) has been
simplified to a minimum.
To return to Bilbao, you have 2 metro stations:
1) Neguri: you can get to this station by walking up
the hill opposite the Igeretxe spa. This is a good
option if you want to continue walking among
the town houses and mansions until you end up
in the square with the metro, which may remind
you of an English square.
2) Algorta: Continue along the sea walk to the
cable lift 300 m further on from the Igeretxe;
when you can to the top, the station is about
800m away. Another option is to keep walking
around the bay until you reach the picturesque
area of the Old Port of Algorta (26); if you climb
its steep steps and slopes to the top, you will
also come out very close to the metro station.
Image of the Igeretxe Spa and Neguri area
c. 1930. Today, the hill still has many large
houses and mansions.
Industry
Heritage
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
BILBAO TOURISM
ONDARROA
METRO BILBAO
OROZKO MUSEUM (Orozko)
946 831 951 · www.ondarroa.net
944 254 025 · www.metrobilbao.net
WEEK
www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo
BISKAY TOURISM
ORDUÑA
TRAM
MUSEUM OF IMAGES OF THE HOLY
WEEK
BASQUE CULTURE MUSEUM (EUSKAL
HERRIA) (Gernika-Lumo)
Radio Taxi Bilbao
944 448 888
Tele Taxi
944 102 121
Radio Taxi Nervión
944 269 026
BASQUE MUSEUM / EUSKAL MUSEOA
GERNIKA PEACE MUSEUM FOUNDATION
(Gernika-Lumo)
BIKE HIRE
www.athletic-club.net
www.mybilbaobizkaia.net
945 384 384 · www.urduna.com
ALAVA TOURISM
PLENTZIA
www.alavaturismo.com
946 774 199 · www.plentzia.org
GIPUZKOA TOURISM
944 729 314 · www.portugalete.com
www.gipuzkoaturismo.net
BASQUE COUNTRY TOURISM
www.euskaditurismo.net
NEKATUR/AGRITOURISMS
902 130 031 · www.nekatur.net
TOURIST OFFICES
PORTUGALETE
SANTURTZI
944 839 494 · www.santurtzi.net
SOPELA
944 065 519 · www.sopelana.es
SOPUERTA
946 104 028 · www.sopuerta.biz
TRUCIOS-TURTZIOZ
BILBAO
946 109 604 · www.turtzioz.org
BILBAO TOURISM
ZIERBENA
· Plaza Circular, 1 Edificio Terminus
944 795 760
· Alameda de Mazarredo 66
(Next to Guggenheim Bilbao)
· AIROPORT 944 031 444
946 404 974 · www.zierbena.net
BISCAY
SAN SEBASTIÁN
SAN SEBASTIÁN TOURISM
943 481 166
www.sansebastianturismo.com
TAXIS
Bilbon Bizi
944 205 193
944 203 113
GENERAL
OUTPATIENTS 112
GENERAL INFORMATION 010
(for calls from within Bilbao)
944 010 010 (for calls outside of
Bilbao)
945 161 598 · www.vitoria-gasteiz.org
010 or 944 241 700
ROADS GENERAL INFORMATION
BARAKALDO BEC
(Bilbao Exhibition Centre)
TOURISM
900 123 505 or 112
944 995 821
www.bilbaoexhibitioncentre.com
BERMEO
Bilbao-Loiu · 902 404 704 (AENA)
944 869 660 / 944 869 663
www.aena.es
944 204 969
946 179 154 · www.bermeo.org
CRUISE AND FERRY
944 046 097 · www.gorbeialdea.com
Ferry Bilbao-Portsmouth · 944 234 477
www.poferries.com
DURANGO
TRAINS
946 033 938 · www.durango-udala.net
Abando Indalecio Prieto Station
(Renfe)
Plaza Circular, 2 · 902 320 320
www.renfe.es
Atxuri Station (EUSKOTREN)
Atxuri 8 · 902 543 210 / 944 019 900
www.euskotren.es
Concordia Station, FEVE Bilbao
Calle de Bailén 2 · 944 250 615
www.feve.es
GERNIKA-LUMO
946 255 892 · www.gernika-lumo.net
GETXO
944 910 800 · www.getxo.net
GORDEXOLA
946 799 715 · www.gordexola.net
GORLIZ
946 774 348 · www.gorliz.net
KARRANTZA-HARANA
946 806 928 · www.karrantza.org
LEKEITIO
946 844 017 · www.lekeitio.com
MENDATA
946 257 402 · www.mendata.es
MUNDAKA
946 177 201 · www.mundaka.org
MUXIKA
946 257 609 · www.urremendi.org
BUSES
Termibus (Bus station)
Gurtubai 1 · 944 395 077
www.termibus.es
Bilbobus (City buses)
944 484 070 · 944 790 981
www.bilbao.net/bilbobus
Bizkaibus
(Provincial and airport buses)
902 222 265 · www.bizkaia.net
www.museoreproduccionesbilbao.
org
ATHLETIC CLUB MUSEUM
CONSUMER INFORMATION MUNICIPAL
OFFICE
METEOROLOGICAL SERVICE
807 170 348
LOST AND FOUND
944 204 981
www.orozkoudala.com
www.bizkaia.net/euskalherriamuseoa
www.museodelapaz.org
GERNIKA MEETING HOUSE
(Gernika-Lumo)
www.gernika-lumo.net
SIMÓN BOLÍVAR MUSEUM
EUSKARAREN ETXEA
(Ziortza-Bolibar)
www.simonbolibarmuseoa.com
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
BASQUE FARMSTEAD ECOMUSEUM /
EUSKAL BASERRIA (Artea)
www.euskararenetxea.net
www.bizkaia.net
MUSEUMS IN BISCAY
ALONG THE COAST
PESQUERO AGURTZA C.I. FISHING
MUSEUM (Santurtzi)
SANTURTZI ITSASOA INTERPRETATION
CENTRE (Santurtzi)
BALMASEDA
DIMA
ARTISTIC REPRODUCTIONS MUSEUM
CITIZEN INFORMATION
Gran Vía 13-6º 944 706 426
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
AIRPORT
www.euskal-museoa.org
CONSULAR OFFICE
946 193 395 · www.bakio.org
946 801 356 · www.enkartur.net
www.plazatorosbilbao.com
www.torosbilbao.com
www.losmuseosdelacostavasca.
com
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
BAKIO
106
902 543 210 · 944 019 900
www.euskotran.es
www.museodepasos.org
www.euskalbaserria.com
DURANGO ART AND HISTORY MUSEUM
(Durango)
www.bizkaia.net
VALENTÍN DE BERRIOTXOA MUSEUM
(Elorrrio)
www.museoberrio-otxoa.com
NATURE RESERVES
URDAIBAI BIOSPHERE RESERVE
RIALIA INDUSTRY MUSEUM
944 650 822
www.busturialdeaurdaibai.com
946 870 402 (Ihobe)
www.torremadariaga.net
BISCAY BRIDGE
GORBEIA NATURE RESERVE
www.losmueosdelacostavasca.com
(Portugalete)
www.rialia.net
(Las Arenas-Getxo/Portugalete)
www.puente-colgante.com
FISHERMEN’S MUSEUM (Bermeo)
www.bizkaikoa.bizkaia.net
946 739 279 Areatza Park
Interpretation Centre
945 430 167 · 946 315 525
Gorbeialdea · www.gorbeialdea.com
www.gorbeiacentralpark.com
INLAND
BALMASEDA MUSEUM (Balmaseda)
URKIOLA NATURE RESERVE
Alcalde Uhagón, 6
944 210 000 Ext. 215
BOINAS LA ENCARTADA MUSEUM
946 800 226 · www.enkartur.net
DOCUMENTATION (GEN. INFORMATION)
BASQUE CHARTER MUSEUM
CUSTOMS
Barroeta Aldámar, 1 · 944 234 700
PASSPORTS- VISAS- ID CARD
900 150 000
BILBAO DENDAK
944 706 500
MUSEUMS IN BILBAO
GUGGENHEIM BILBAO MUSEUM
www.guggenheim-bilbao.es
FINE ARTS MUSEUM
www.visitenkarterri.com
(Balmaseda)
www.laencartadamuseoa.com
(Sopuerta)
www.enkarterrimuseoa.net
EL POBAL SMITHY
(Muskiz)
www.bizkaia.net/elpobal
LOIZAGA TOWER VINTAGE AND CLASSIC
CAR MUSEUM
www.museobilbao.com
(Galdames)
www.torreloizaga.com
BILBAO BENEDICTO MUSEUM
BASQUE COUNTRY MINING MUSEUM
www.museo-benedicto.net
DIOCESAN MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS ART
www.eleizmuseoa.com
BILBAO RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM
www.museomaritimobilbao.org
MUSEUM OF IMAGES OF THE HOLY
(Gallarta)
www.museominero.net
“JOSÉ LUIS GOTI” MUSEUM OF THE
HISTORY OF BASQUE MEDICINE AND
SCIENCE (Leioa)
www.bizkaia.ehu.es
946 814 155 · www.urkiola.net
ARMAÑÓN NATURE RESERVE
BILBAO TOURISM
Plaza Circular, 1 Edificio Terminus
944 795 760
www.mybilbaobizkaia.com
www.bilbaoturismo.net

Heritage

Transcription

Similar documents

Exchange Report – Bilbao, Spain

RUTA 5 San juan, bermeo, mundaka y guernika english FORMATO

RUTA 8 Armintza, Bakio, San juan, bermeo, mundaka english

Bilbao for beginners - Emre Sururi Taşcı / Emre Sururi Tasci

ARTISTIC CURRICULUM MIREN DE MIGUEL

this Powerpoint set - 21 Stories of Transition

A “resilient”

Developing Mexican Silver-Zinc Production

astiberri - Museo Thyssen

The Brimi Cuisine Education Office is a joint effort