SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS - Hotifx Application

Transcription

SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS - Hotifx Application
CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements and Suitable Application Techniques
This list offers and overview of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements, suitable for the methods of application described in this
manual.
CRYSTALLIZED™
– Swarovski Elements
Application techniques
Gluing
Soldering and
Electroplating
Hotfix
Application
Sewing and
Embroidery
Beading
Mechanical
Application
Setting
Round Stones
ß
ß
Flat Backs No Hotfix
ß
ß
Flat Backs Hotfix
ß
Sew-on Stones
Fancy Stones
ß
ß
ß
ß
Beads
ß
ß
Crystal Pearls
ß
ß
ß
ß
Pendants
Transfers No Hotfix
ß
Transfers
ß
Crystal Tattoos
ß
Crystal-it
ß
Crystal Fabric
ß
ß
ß
Crystal Transfabric
ß
ß
ß
Crystal Glaze
ß
Crystaltex
ß
ß
ß
Crystal Yarn
Plastic Trimmings
ß
ß
ß
Zippers
ß
ß
Buttons & Fasteners
ß
Metal Trimmings
ß
Crystal Mesh
ß
Cupchains & Findings
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
ß
Please note: the product groups Round Stones and Fancy Stones are also suitable for applications like sewing and beading if the stones are set in suitable
metal casings. More information on this subject can be found in the chapter “Settings for CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements”.
General Information
5
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
hotfix APPLICATION
The extensive assortment of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements includes a
number of Hotfix products that can be simply and quickly applied by using heat.
36
Application Techniques
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
<<<
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
The following product groups can be applied using Hotfix technology:
ß Flat Backs Hotfix
ß Transfers
ß Crystal Fabric
ß Crystal Transfabric
ß Crystaltex (Hotfix)
ß Crystal Mesh (Hotfix)
<<<
MACHINES, TOOLS AND AIDS
The following machines and aids are necessary for the Hotfix application of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements.
Heat press
Double heat press
Ultrasonic device
Stone setting machine
Roll press
G.S.M. s.r.l.
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
Machines
Iron
38
Application Techniques
Applicator
Teflon®
100x50 cm, 40x20 inches
Art. 9010/003, Sys.No. 650698
Silicone foam
134x100 cm, 54x40 inches
Art. 9010/002, Sys.No. 258582
Felt
100x100 cm, 40x40 inches
Art. 9010/001, Sys.No. 221421
Normal cardboard
Silicone pad
50x50x0.2 cm, 20x20x0.08 inches
Art. 9010/005, Sys.No. 263928
Temperature measuring strips
Art. 9010/007, Sys.No. 624694
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
Aids
<<<
APPLICATION
Water Drop Test
The optimum bond can only be achieved if the carrier material can absorb the glue. A simple water drop test will indicate whether or
not the fabric has this attribute. If the fabric has e.g. a waterproofing finish, it will not absorb drops of water or glue.
With textiles that contain a large quantity of softening agents, adhesion can be improved by washing the original materials before the
application process.
= right
= wrong
Very fine fabrics such as organza, as well as smooth leather, smooth leather imitations, tightly woven polyamides and fabrics with a
silicone or wax finish may not be suitable for Hotfix application due to insufficient absorbency.
Application Techniques
39
160 !
162 !
Application with Heat Press
170 !
160 !
156 !
162 !
150 !
170 !
156 !
150 !
A heat press is the ideal tool for applying Hotfix products as it can be used to apply even, adjustable pressure. All CRYSTALLIZEDTM
– Swarovski Elements mentioned in the Product Overview can be applied using the steps described on the following pages. Please
also note the helpful hints concerning the application of Crystal Mesh and Diamond Transfers that are listed in the section Useful
Information.
160 !
156 !
162 !
150 !
General advice on the application parameters can be found in the Hotfix Selector table in the back of this manual. The Hotfix Selector
table includes information on the correct application side, the temperature, pressure settings and application times for all Hotfix
elements. Please note that the application parameters given in the Hotfix Selector are guidelines only.
170 !
The Parallel
Heat
156
! Plane of the
150
! Press
Take great care to apply pressure evenly when using a heat press with a scissor mechanism. The surface of the press must be
completely plane in order to effectively distribute pressure and heat.
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
= right
= wrong
Checks should always be carried out to make sure the plates are parallel. This can be done by placing paper test strips into the press
and closing it with the least possible pressure. If it takes the same force to pull out each strip, the plates are parallel.
Paper strips
Heat press
40
Application Techniques
Temperature Check
The temperature at which the heat press is set is not always the actual temperature of the heating surface. There is always a possibility
that the heat will be unevenly distributed, or that one of the heating plates is defective.
We therefore recommend regularly checking the temperature with a temperature gauge or temperature measuring strips at various
points on the heating surface.
Optimal adhesion and quality can be achieved due to the fact that Swarovski Hotfix glue that can be used at various temperatures
ranging from 120°-170°C (250°-340°F) and because of the short application time.
= 120°C (250°F)
= 80°C (175°F)
Temperature fluctuations
on the ironing surface
Test with temperature measuring strips
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
Heating Pressure
The selection of the correct pressure depends on the type of crystal elements being applied, the carrier materials and the technical
equipment being used. Too much pressure can cause the glue to come out and may also damage the surface of the carrier material.
Too little pressure means that the crystals will not properly adhere to the textile.
Please note: the Hotfix Selector cannot give exact pressure readings as these can vary according to the machine being used.
The pressure must always be concentrated directly on the crystal elements that are to be applied (e.g. Transfers, Flat Backs Hotfix,
Crystal Mesh). It is therefore necessary to check if there are any buttons, zippers or other raised parts surrounding it. Always use a
compensating pad to even out the surface when applying motives that have elements of different heights.
Teflon® foil
Flat Back
Heat press
Fabric
Jeans Button
Felt pad
Application Techniques
41
To ensure the best possible result, test applications on the intended carrier material are strongly recommended.
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
1 Peel off the white protective film
2 Place the Transfer in the desired position
3 Make sure you apply the elements from the
recommended side and use the correct
ironing aid
4 To protect the heating surfaces from any glue
residue, it is best to cover them with Teflon®
foil.
5 After the Transfer has been applied, cover it
with a (cotton) cloth and press down.
6 The carrier film should not be removed until
the Transfer has cooled down and the glue
has completely hardened.
If Transfers, Crystal Fabric, Crystal Mesh or Crystaltex do not adhere satisfactorily they can be reapplied. If necessary adjust pressure,
heat and application time accordingly.
Please note: not all Hotfix products are provided with a protective- or carrier film (e.g. Crystaltex).
Application with Ultrasonic Device
To achieve top quality results, Flat Backs Hotfix in sizes SS 6 – SS 34 can be quickly and easily applied using an ultrasonic device. An
apparatus with a vacuum pump is best for correctly positioning the stones. Alternatively, the crystals can also be first fixed to a transfer
film or set into position with a wax stick or tweezers.
The frequency of the ultrasonic device must be set according the manufacturer’s instructions. Optimal application time should be
determined by carrying out tests beforehand.
1 Choose an adapter to match the size of the
crystal
42
Application Techniques
2 Position the crystal on the carrier material,
which should be resting on a solid base (e.g.
glass, metal)
3 Press the adapter firmly onto the crystal at a
right angle and activate the device
Application with Stone Setting Machine
G.S.M. s.r.l.
Hotfix crystals can be secured with a stone setting machine using either ultrasound or heat. The intake and application of the crystals
is either fully- or semi-automatic.
Stone setting machine
Application with Applicators
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
Applicators are an economical way to apply Flat Backs Hotfix onto the carrier material and are suitable for the application of XILION
Flat Backs Hotfix in sizes SS 6 – SS 34.
1 Choose an adapter to match the size of the
crystal
2 Position the crystal on the carrier material,
which should be resting on a solid base (e.g.
glass, metal)
3 Press the adapter firmly onto the crystal at a
right angle and activate the device
Application with Iron
The use of a heat press is generally recommended for the application of all Hotfix elements. However, in some cases using an iron can
also be useful when making first samples.
Please note: always make sure that there are no steam vents on the sole plate of the iron. Water droplets and steam have a negative
effect on the application results. Always iron on a firm, flat and even base.
1 Set on the symbol for silk/wool or • – ••
(max. 170°C/340°F)
2 Use felt or cardboard to prevent the crystal
elements from marking the fabric
3 A Teflon® foil pad protects the sole plate of the
iron from any glue residue
Application Techniques
43
<<<
USEFUL INFORMATION
Please take into consideration that the Hotfix glue is not completely bonded until it has fully hardened (generally after 24 hours).
During this period, handle the fabric with care and do not wash it or carry out any tests.
Basic Hotfix Principles
Hotfix elements have a coating of hot-melt glue on the back. This is activated by heat to bond the crystal with the carrier material. The
glue hardens as it cools and the elements are securely and permanently fixed. This unique Swarovski Hotfix glue is also easy to clean
and is machine-washable. Details can be found in the chapter “Care Instructions”. The temperature, application time and pressure can
be varied according to the carrier material. Details on these parameters can be found in the Hotfix Selector table located in the back of
this manual.
1
2
3
4
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
1 Crystal
2 M-Foiling: this specially developed coating guarantees optimal brilliance and adhesion with the primer.
3 Primer: the coloured primer improves the bond between the glue and the foiling.
4 Hotfix glue: this transparent glue, specially developed by Swarovski, enables the application of crystals onto various carrier materials.
Pre-Cut Fabric
Experience has shown that the best results are obtained with Hotfix applications on lengths of pre-cut fabric. In order to obtain an
optimal adjustment of all application parameters, advance testing on materials to be used is strongly recommended before production
begins.
Cutting Crystal Mesh
The transparent film should not be removed prior to application. The film correctly positions the individual crystals and stabilises the
Crystal Mesh, thus helping to achieve a perfect application.
1 Cut the transparent film between the rows of
crystals with a utility knife but leave it in place
for stability.
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Application Techniques
2 Cut the metal mesh along the scored line
with a pair of scissors and remove any extra
connecting rings. Now Crystal Mesh is ready
for Hotfix application.
Application Instructions for Diamond Transfers
When applying Diamond Transfers (transfers with high brilliance XILION Chatons), it is best to use a soft underlay (e.g. made from
silicone). This soft underlay has proven to be very advantageous in the application process, especially concerning the distribution of
pressure. By using the pad, an optimal bonding between the textile and the diamond can be achieved (adhesion right up to the girdle).
If such a pad is not used, the product may not be perfectly bonded and in the worst case, the crystals may drop out.
= wrong
= right
Film Marks
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
When using delicate fabrics, undesired film marks can be avoided by cutting off the carrier film close to the edge of the motif.
Apply the Transfer Motif for a short time, using a small amount of pressure. Then remove the adhesive film and press again using the
recommended time and pressure settings.
If the film has already left marks, the texture can be restored by brushing, using a steam iron or by re-ironing it in the iron press.
Application Side
Basically all Hotfix elements can be applied from either side. The application sides recommended in the Hotfix Selector table are
based on standard cases. In special cases it can be more appropriate to apply them from the reverse side. Crystal Mesh, for instance,
can be applied more quickly from the reverse side as long as it can be securely fixed before application.
Hotfix Application on Unusual Materials
The Hotfix glue was specially developed for use with textiles, but experience shows that Hotfix applications can also be carried out
on other unusual materials such as e.g. wood, paper, metal or glass. In such cases it is very important to carry out application tests
beforehand.
Application Techniques
45
Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
ERROR
The transfer does not adhere to the fabric.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Glue is oozing out around the crystals.
7, 8, 9, 10
The carrier film leaves marks on delicate fabrics.
8, 9, 10, 11, 12
The Transfer does not adhere to seams and on multi-layered fabric.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 13, 14
Crystal Fabric remains cloudy after application.
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 15
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
ERROR
CAUSE
RECOMMENDATION
1
The application temperature is too low.
Raise the temperature to at least 120°C (250°F)
2
Uneven distribution of heat on the heated surface.
Check the temperature with a temperature measuring
strip or a thermometer and set up the heat press again.
3
The application time is too short.
Increase the application time. You can find information
about this in the Hotfix Selector.
4
The pressure is too low.
Thick fabrics and some products need higher pressure,
see the Hotfix Selector.
5
The heat press does not close evenly.
Adjust the heat press.
6
The ironing pad is unsuitable.
Carry out tests with different ironing pads to establish the
most suitable
7
The temperature is too high.
Choose a lower temperature, between 120°C and 170°C
(250°F–340°F)
8
The application time is too long.
Reduce the application time. You can find information
about this in the Hotfix Selector in the back of this
manual.
9
The pressure is too high.
Reduce the pressure on the heat press
10
The ironing pad is too hard.
Use a soft silicone pad
11
The fabric is extremely sensitive.
Iron the fabric with a steam iron
12
The transparent transfer film leaves marks.
Cut away more of the film to reduce marking
13
The application time is too short.
Increase application time; it takes longer for the heat to
activate the Hotfix glue on layered fabric and seams; If
necessary apply from the front.
14
The pressure on the Transfer is too low.
Balance out the different thicknesses of seams, buttons,
zippers etc. by using pieces of felt, which have been cut
to exactly the right size and placed under the Transfer.
15
The application temperature is too low.
Increase the temperature to a maximum of 170°C
(340°F)
<<<
SUPPLIERS
The following list shows some renowned suppliers from around the world and should serve as a guide to help locate the best
equipment.
MACHINES / TOOLS / AIDS
SUPPLIER
CONTACT
Heat press
Teva
www.teva-organisation.com
Nagel & Hermann
www.nundh.com
Stahl‘s
www.stahls.de
Thermopress Europe
www.thermopressen.de
Sipesa S.A.
www.sipesa.es
46
Application Techniques
SUPPLIER
CONTACT
Heat press
Hix Corporation
www.hixcorp.com
Jess J. Heap & Son, Inc.
www.jesseheap.com
Bestblanks
www.bestblanks.com
Pro World
www.proworldinc.com
Rhinestone Machine
www.rhinestonemachine.com
Double heat press
Teva
www.teva-organisation.com
Roll press
Maschinenfabrik Herbert Meyer GmbH
www.meyer-machines.com
Ultrasonic device
Teva
www.teva-organisation.com
Nagel & Hermann
www.nundh.com
Perfecta Schmid Produkte AG
www.perfecta.ch
G.S.M. s.r.I.
www.gsmfixy.com
PESSANI s.r.l.
www.pessani.com
Jess J. Heap & Son, Inc.
www.jesseheap.com
Rhinestone Machine
www.rhinestonemachine.com
Ever Green Ultrasonic Co., Ltd.
www.evergreen-taiwan.com
Shanghai Exing Industry Co., Ltd.
www.exingsh.com.cn
Kandi Corp.
www.kandicorp.com
Hobbyring
www.hobbyring.de
Dreamtime Creations
www.dreamtimecreations.com
Donwei Machinery Industry Co., Ltd.
www.donwei.com.tw
Creative Crystal® Company
www.bejeweler.com
Shanghai Exing Industry Co., Ltd.
www.exingsh.com.cn
G.S.M. s.r.I.
www.gsmfixy.com
Dairo Machine Co
www.dairomc.com
Nagel & Hermann
www.nundh.com
PESSANI s.r.l.
www.pessani.com
Felt (100x100 cm, 40x40 inches)
Swarovski Art. 9010/001, Sys.No. 221421
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Silicone foam (134x100 cm, 54x40 in.)
Swarovski Art. 9010/002, Sys.No. 208582
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Teflon® (100x50 cm, 40x20 inches)
Swarovski Art. 9010/003, Sys.No. 650698
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Silicone pad
(50x50x0.2 cm, 20x20x0.08 inches)
Swarovski Art. 9010/005, Sys.No. 263928
Temperature measuring strips
Swarovski Art. 9010/007, Sys.No. 624694
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Silicone plate for designing
Transfers
Swarovski
50x25x0.1 cm, 20x10x0.05 inches
Art. 9010/006, Sys.No. 261595
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Applicators
Stone setting machine
HOTFIX
APPLICATION
MACHINES / TOOLS / AIDS
www.swarovski.com/crystallized
Application Techniques
47