SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS - Hotifx Application
Transcription
SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS - Hotifx Application
CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements and Suitable Application Techniques This list offers and overview of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements, suitable for the methods of application described in this manual. CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements Application techniques Gluing Soldering and Electroplating Hotfix Application Sewing and Embroidery Beading Mechanical Application Setting Round Stones ß ß Flat Backs No Hotfix ß ß Flat Backs Hotfix ß Sew-on Stones Fancy Stones ß ß ß ß Beads ß ß Crystal Pearls ß ß ß ß Pendants Transfers No Hotfix ß Transfers ß Crystal Tattoos ß Crystal-it ß Crystal Fabric ß ß ß Crystal Transfabric ß ß ß Crystal Glaze ß Crystaltex ß ß ß Crystal Yarn Plastic Trimmings ß ß ß Zippers ß ß Buttons & Fasteners ß Metal Trimmings ß Crystal Mesh ß Cupchains & Findings ß ß ß ß ß ß ß ß ß ß Please note: the product groups Round Stones and Fancy Stones are also suitable for applications like sewing and beading if the stones are set in suitable metal casings. More information on this subject can be found in the chapter “Settings for CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements”. General Information 5 HOTFIX APPLICATION hotfix APPLICATION The extensive assortment of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements includes a number of Hotfix products that can be simply and quickly applied by using heat. 36 Application Techniques HOTFIX APPLICATION <<< PRODUCT OVERVIEW The following product groups can be applied using Hotfix technology: ß Flat Backs Hotfix ß Transfers ß Crystal Fabric ß Crystal Transfabric ß Crystaltex (Hotfix) ß Crystal Mesh (Hotfix) <<< MACHINES, TOOLS AND AIDS The following machines and aids are necessary for the Hotfix application of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements. Heat press Double heat press Ultrasonic device Stone setting machine Roll press G.S.M. s.r.l. HOTFIX APPLICATION Machines Iron 38 Application Techniques Applicator Teflon® 100x50 cm, 40x20 inches Art. 9010/003, Sys.No. 650698 Silicone foam 134x100 cm, 54x40 inches Art. 9010/002, Sys.No. 258582 Felt 100x100 cm, 40x40 inches Art. 9010/001, Sys.No. 221421 Normal cardboard Silicone pad 50x50x0.2 cm, 20x20x0.08 inches Art. 9010/005, Sys.No. 263928 Temperature measuring strips Art. 9010/007, Sys.No. 624694 HOTFIX APPLICATION Aids <<< APPLICATION Water Drop Test The optimum bond can only be achieved if the carrier material can absorb the glue. A simple water drop test will indicate whether or not the fabric has this attribute. If the fabric has e.g. a waterproofing finish, it will not absorb drops of water or glue. With textiles that contain a large quantity of softening agents, adhesion can be improved by washing the original materials before the application process. = right = wrong Very fine fabrics such as organza, as well as smooth leather, smooth leather imitations, tightly woven polyamides and fabrics with a silicone or wax finish may not be suitable for Hotfix application due to insufficient absorbency. Application Techniques 39 160 ! 162 ! Application with Heat Press 170 ! 160 ! 156 ! 162 ! 150 ! 170 ! 156 ! 150 ! A heat press is the ideal tool for applying Hotfix products as it can be used to apply even, adjustable pressure. All CRYSTALLIZEDTM – Swarovski Elements mentioned in the Product Overview can be applied using the steps described on the following pages. Please also note the helpful hints concerning the application of Crystal Mesh and Diamond Transfers that are listed in the section Useful Information. 160 ! 156 ! 162 ! 150 ! General advice on the application parameters can be found in the Hotfix Selector table in the back of this manual. The Hotfix Selector table includes information on the correct application side, the temperature, pressure settings and application times for all Hotfix elements. Please note that the application parameters given in the Hotfix Selector are guidelines only. 170 ! The Parallel Heat 156 ! Plane of the 150 ! Press Take great care to apply pressure evenly when using a heat press with a scissor mechanism. The surface of the press must be completely plane in order to effectively distribute pressure and heat. HOTFIX APPLICATION = right = wrong Checks should always be carried out to make sure the plates are parallel. This can be done by placing paper test strips into the press and closing it with the least possible pressure. If it takes the same force to pull out each strip, the plates are parallel. Paper strips Heat press 40 Application Techniques Temperature Check The temperature at which the heat press is set is not always the actual temperature of the heating surface. There is always a possibility that the heat will be unevenly distributed, or that one of the heating plates is defective. We therefore recommend regularly checking the temperature with a temperature gauge or temperature measuring strips at various points on the heating surface. Optimal adhesion and quality can be achieved due to the fact that Swarovski Hotfix glue that can be used at various temperatures ranging from 120°-170°C (250°-340°F) and because of the short application time. = 120°C (250°F) = 80°C (175°F) Temperature fluctuations on the ironing surface Test with temperature measuring strips HOTFIX APPLICATION Heating Pressure The selection of the correct pressure depends on the type of crystal elements being applied, the carrier materials and the technical equipment being used. Too much pressure can cause the glue to come out and may also damage the surface of the carrier material. Too little pressure means that the crystals will not properly adhere to the textile. Please note: the Hotfix Selector cannot give exact pressure readings as these can vary according to the machine being used. The pressure must always be concentrated directly on the crystal elements that are to be applied (e.g. Transfers, Flat Backs Hotfix, Crystal Mesh). It is therefore necessary to check if there are any buttons, zippers or other raised parts surrounding it. Always use a compensating pad to even out the surface when applying motives that have elements of different heights. Teflon® foil Flat Back Heat press Fabric Jeans Button Felt pad Application Techniques 41 To ensure the best possible result, test applications on the intended carrier material are strongly recommended. HOTFIX APPLICATION 1 Peel off the white protective film 2 Place the Transfer in the desired position 3 Make sure you apply the elements from the recommended side and use the correct ironing aid 4 To protect the heating surfaces from any glue residue, it is best to cover them with Teflon® foil. 5 After the Transfer has been applied, cover it with a (cotton) cloth and press down. 6 The carrier film should not be removed until the Transfer has cooled down and the glue has completely hardened. If Transfers, Crystal Fabric, Crystal Mesh or Crystaltex do not adhere satisfactorily they can be reapplied. If necessary adjust pressure, heat and application time accordingly. Please note: not all Hotfix products are provided with a protective- or carrier film (e.g. Crystaltex). Application with Ultrasonic Device To achieve top quality results, Flat Backs Hotfix in sizes SS 6 – SS 34 can be quickly and easily applied using an ultrasonic device. An apparatus with a vacuum pump is best for correctly positioning the stones. Alternatively, the crystals can also be first fixed to a transfer film or set into position with a wax stick or tweezers. The frequency of the ultrasonic device must be set according the manufacturer’s instructions. Optimal application time should be determined by carrying out tests beforehand. 1 Choose an adapter to match the size of the crystal 42 Application Techniques 2 Position the crystal on the carrier material, which should be resting on a solid base (e.g. glass, metal) 3 Press the adapter firmly onto the crystal at a right angle and activate the device Application with Stone Setting Machine G.S.M. s.r.l. Hotfix crystals can be secured with a stone setting machine using either ultrasound or heat. The intake and application of the crystals is either fully- or semi-automatic. Stone setting machine Application with Applicators HOTFIX APPLICATION Applicators are an economical way to apply Flat Backs Hotfix onto the carrier material and are suitable for the application of XILION Flat Backs Hotfix in sizes SS 6 – SS 34. 1 Choose an adapter to match the size of the crystal 2 Position the crystal on the carrier material, which should be resting on a solid base (e.g. glass, metal) 3 Press the adapter firmly onto the crystal at a right angle and activate the device Application with Iron The use of a heat press is generally recommended for the application of all Hotfix elements. However, in some cases using an iron can also be useful when making first samples. Please note: always make sure that there are no steam vents on the sole plate of the iron. Water droplets and steam have a negative effect on the application results. Always iron on a firm, flat and even base. 1 Set on the symbol for silk/wool or • – •• (max. 170°C/340°F) 2 Use felt or cardboard to prevent the crystal elements from marking the fabric 3 A Teflon® foil pad protects the sole plate of the iron from any glue residue Application Techniques 43 <<< USEFUL INFORMATION Please take into consideration that the Hotfix glue is not completely bonded until it has fully hardened (generally after 24 hours). During this period, handle the fabric with care and do not wash it or carry out any tests. Basic Hotfix Principles Hotfix elements have a coating of hot-melt glue on the back. This is activated by heat to bond the crystal with the carrier material. The glue hardens as it cools and the elements are securely and permanently fixed. This unique Swarovski Hotfix glue is also easy to clean and is machine-washable. Details can be found in the chapter “Care Instructions”. The temperature, application time and pressure can be varied according to the carrier material. Details on these parameters can be found in the Hotfix Selector table located in the back of this manual. 1 2 3 4 HOTFIX APPLICATION 1 Crystal 2 M-Foiling: this specially developed coating guarantees optimal brilliance and adhesion with the primer. 3 Primer: the coloured primer improves the bond between the glue and the foiling. 4 Hotfix glue: this transparent glue, specially developed by Swarovski, enables the application of crystals onto various carrier materials. Pre-Cut Fabric Experience has shown that the best results are obtained with Hotfix applications on lengths of pre-cut fabric. In order to obtain an optimal adjustment of all application parameters, advance testing on materials to be used is strongly recommended before production begins. Cutting Crystal Mesh The transparent film should not be removed prior to application. The film correctly positions the individual crystals and stabilises the Crystal Mesh, thus helping to achieve a perfect application. 1 Cut the transparent film between the rows of crystals with a utility knife but leave it in place for stability. 44 Application Techniques 2 Cut the metal mesh along the scored line with a pair of scissors and remove any extra connecting rings. Now Crystal Mesh is ready for Hotfix application. Application Instructions for Diamond Transfers When applying Diamond Transfers (transfers with high brilliance XILION Chatons), it is best to use a soft underlay (e.g. made from silicone). This soft underlay has proven to be very advantageous in the application process, especially concerning the distribution of pressure. By using the pad, an optimal bonding between the textile and the diamond can be achieved (adhesion right up to the girdle). If such a pad is not used, the product may not be perfectly bonded and in the worst case, the crystals may drop out. = wrong = right Film Marks HOTFIX APPLICATION When using delicate fabrics, undesired film marks can be avoided by cutting off the carrier film close to the edge of the motif. Apply the Transfer Motif for a short time, using a small amount of pressure. Then remove the adhesive film and press again using the recommended time and pressure settings. If the film has already left marks, the texture can be restored by brushing, using a steam iron or by re-ironing it in the iron press. Application Side Basically all Hotfix elements can be applied from either side. The application sides recommended in the Hotfix Selector table are based on standard cases. In special cases it can be more appropriate to apply them from the reverse side. Crystal Mesh, for instance, can be applied more quickly from the reverse side as long as it can be securely fixed before application. Hotfix Application on Unusual Materials The Hotfix glue was specially developed for use with textiles, but experience shows that Hotfix applications can also be carried out on other unusual materials such as e.g. wood, paper, metal or glass. In such cases it is very important to carry out application tests beforehand. Application Techniques 45 Troubleshooting PROBLEM ERROR The transfer does not adhere to the fabric. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 Glue is oozing out around the crystals. 7, 8, 9, 10 The carrier film leaves marks on delicate fabrics. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 The Transfer does not adhere to seams and on multi-layered fabric. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 13, 14 Crystal Fabric remains cloudy after application. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 15 HOTFIX APPLICATION ERROR CAUSE RECOMMENDATION 1 The application temperature is too low. Raise the temperature to at least 120°C (250°F) 2 Uneven distribution of heat on the heated surface. Check the temperature with a temperature measuring strip or a thermometer and set up the heat press again. 3 The application time is too short. Increase the application time. You can find information about this in the Hotfix Selector. 4 The pressure is too low. Thick fabrics and some products need higher pressure, see the Hotfix Selector. 5 The heat press does not close evenly. Adjust the heat press. 6 The ironing pad is unsuitable. Carry out tests with different ironing pads to establish the most suitable 7 The temperature is too high. Choose a lower temperature, between 120°C and 170°C (250°F–340°F) 8 The application time is too long. Reduce the application time. You can find information about this in the Hotfix Selector in the back of this manual. 9 The pressure is too high. Reduce the pressure on the heat press 10 The ironing pad is too hard. Use a soft silicone pad 11 The fabric is extremely sensitive. Iron the fabric with a steam iron 12 The transparent transfer film leaves marks. Cut away more of the film to reduce marking 13 The application time is too short. Increase application time; it takes longer for the heat to activate the Hotfix glue on layered fabric and seams; If necessary apply from the front. 14 The pressure on the Transfer is too low. Balance out the different thicknesses of seams, buttons, zippers etc. by using pieces of felt, which have been cut to exactly the right size and placed under the Transfer. 15 The application temperature is too low. Increase the temperature to a maximum of 170°C (340°F) <<< SUPPLIERS The following list shows some renowned suppliers from around the world and should serve as a guide to help locate the best equipment. MACHINES / TOOLS / AIDS SUPPLIER CONTACT Heat press Teva www.teva-organisation.com Nagel & Hermann www.nundh.com Stahl‘s www.stahls.de Thermopress Europe www.thermopressen.de Sipesa S.A. www.sipesa.es 46 Application Techniques SUPPLIER CONTACT Heat press Hix Corporation www.hixcorp.com Jess J. Heap & Son, Inc. www.jesseheap.com Bestblanks www.bestblanks.com Pro World www.proworldinc.com Rhinestone Machine www.rhinestonemachine.com Double heat press Teva www.teva-organisation.com Roll press Maschinenfabrik Herbert Meyer GmbH www.meyer-machines.com Ultrasonic device Teva www.teva-organisation.com Nagel & Hermann www.nundh.com Perfecta Schmid Produkte AG www.perfecta.ch G.S.M. s.r.I. www.gsmfixy.com PESSANI s.r.l. www.pessani.com Jess J. Heap & Son, Inc. www.jesseheap.com Rhinestone Machine www.rhinestonemachine.com Ever Green Ultrasonic Co., Ltd. www.evergreen-taiwan.com Shanghai Exing Industry Co., Ltd. www.exingsh.com.cn Kandi Corp. www.kandicorp.com Hobbyring www.hobbyring.de Dreamtime Creations www.dreamtimecreations.com Donwei Machinery Industry Co., Ltd. www.donwei.com.tw Creative Crystal® Company www.bejeweler.com Shanghai Exing Industry Co., Ltd. www.exingsh.com.cn G.S.M. s.r.I. www.gsmfixy.com Dairo Machine Co www.dairomc.com Nagel & Hermann www.nundh.com PESSANI s.r.l. www.pessani.com Felt (100x100 cm, 40x40 inches) Swarovski Art. 9010/001, Sys.No. 221421 www.swarovski.com/crystallized Silicone foam (134x100 cm, 54x40 in.) Swarovski Art. 9010/002, Sys.No. 208582 www.swarovski.com/crystallized Teflon® (100x50 cm, 40x20 inches) Swarovski Art. 9010/003, Sys.No. 650698 www.swarovski.com/crystallized Silicone pad (50x50x0.2 cm, 20x20x0.08 inches) Swarovski Art. 9010/005, Sys.No. 263928 Temperature measuring strips Swarovski Art. 9010/007, Sys.No. 624694 www.swarovski.com/crystallized Silicone plate for designing Transfers Swarovski 50x25x0.1 cm, 20x10x0.05 inches Art. 9010/006, Sys.No. 261595 www.swarovski.com/crystallized Applicators Stone setting machine HOTFIX APPLICATION MACHINES / TOOLS / AIDS www.swarovski.com/crystallized Application Techniques 47