february 2015 issue
Transcription
february 2015 issue
1 Pretty T Girls February 2015 The Magazine for the most beautiful girls in the world A publication of Pretty T Girls Yahoo group 2 In This Issue PAGE Editorial By: Barbara Jean The Crossdressers Wife-The First Time 10 Beautiful Women Who Were Born Men Shaving Tips By: FemmeFever Coming Next Month 8 Beauty Mistakes and How to Fix Them 7 Tips for Perfect Brows How to Use an Eyeshadow Quad A Lesson In Tightliner: Eyeliner That Makes Your Eyes Look Bigger The Adventures of Judy Sometimes Módhnóirí by: Barbara Marie Tasi’s Musings Humor Angels In The Centerfold Mellissa’s Tips 5 Outfits That Hide Love Handles Tasi’s Fashion How to Walk in High Heels Without Pain Golden Rule of Fashion Lucille Sorella The Occasional Woman - Footwear 11 Timeless Style Tips Everyone Should Follow How Does a Transsexual Woman Shop for Clothes In Stores The Gossip Fence Shop Till You Drop Calendar 3 4 6 9 12 13 15 17 18 19 20 23 28 29 30 36 38 41 44 45 49 51 53 55 64 76 3 Dysphoria-Euphoria An Editorial by: Barbara Jean Dysphoria, a feeling of ill at ease, an extreme unhappiness. For someone who is an alcoholic, a drug addict, it is a dysphoria that has caused them to turn to the drugs or alcohol in an attempt to relieve, or escape the dysphoria, a dysphoria that may be due to family life or job, or some other reason. Gender dysphoria, it is said to be an ill at ease or unhappiness over one’s gender, but is it really over our gender, or is it because of the situation we have been put into because of our gender? For the pre-transition transsexual the dysphoria is really not of their gender but being forced to live as a member of the opposite gender. For the one who is in transition the dysphoria might be the inability to obtain the desired surgery, or inability to get a good job because they are transgender. Even for the crossdresser it may be that they are forced to remain in the closet due to job or family. Many of us are dysphoric because we feel we do not pass as a woman. Many of us have suffered immense loss because we are transgender. Divorce because the wife could not accept, I know one who was told she would never be able to see her son unless she was dressed as a man. Others have loss the jobs because they were transgender. No doubt dysphoria has caused us many problems. I think most of us at one time or more in our lives have attempted to purge ourselves of our feminine side. Throw away clothes, go into some macho job, all in an attempt to be who others say we should be rather than being true to ourselves. Euphoria, so many of us become euphoric when we step out of the closet into the public for the first time, to hear someone call us Miss or Mamm, to step into a ladies room, to try on a dress at a clothing store. All of these can be situations where we feel extremely happy, happy to be able to outwardly express our inner self. For years gays have had pride celebrations, showing the world that they are proud to be different from what society deems the norm, to be gay. In recent years we have started to see transgender pride also. Yes, we as crossdresser and transsexuals have good reason to be proud. Not pride in bucking the social norm, but pride in displaying our true person. Our true person, one of the things I have said for some time is that we do not rid ourselves of our masculine side, but we have come to express our feminine side. In her book “How To Be A Woman Though Male” Virginia Prince had a list of masculine and feminine characteristics. OK, yes the book and the list are 50 years old, but I think there is much to be said about 4 her list. To both the masculine and the feminine there are both good and bad qualities or characteristics. We have come to recognize, accept and retain the good qualities of the masculine, things like being strong, determined, practical, being a leader. But we have also learned to express not hide our feminine side. Things like being emotional and showing our feelings, having compassion and caring for others, being kind and loving, expressing a like for beauty, being more gentle. Pride, why shouldn’t we be proud, we have gone not from being a man to being a woman, but on to being a whole and complete person, a combining of both the masculine and the feminine. It is something that I think we should be proud of. It is said that those who are most homophobic are hiding their gayness, that they really wish they were gay, but are fearful of repercussions. I think the same can be said for those who are transphobic, they really wish they could express themselves as we do, and yet are fearful of repercussions. The Crossdressers’ Wife — The First Time Dee (reprinted from TG Forum) So many crossdressers wives have no clue that this is a life long condition that begins at 7-10 years of age. Those crucial years when little boys begin their pre-pubescent stage. However, there is that tiny percentage, approximately 1% of the population that grows up a bit different from the norm and crossdressing is a case in point. It is abnormal, unusual and most often so difficult to explain. How many of you have gone back in time to the first time you ever crossdressed? When was the first time you had a desire to dress up in women’s/girl clothing? What were you feeling? Was it all pleasure? Any fears? What was that like? How much do you recall? The silk? Was it your mother’s clothing or your sister’s? Did you ever tell anyone then? Did you get caught? How did you feel after the first time? How long did it take you to crossdress again? I pose these questions for a multitude of reasons. Your wives want to know! They sent me to seek out answers. Knowing that 70% of CDs do NOT tell their wives the truth about themselves before marriage — when we do find out — we have questions and a lot of our husbands are still withholding the truth. Time is up for many . . . Why is it important to do an autopsy on this condition? The more we know, the more empowered we will all be — especially CDs and their wives/partners. Please do this exercise. Revisit in your mind the first time you ever thought about crossdressing or did crossdress. So many scared CD husbands have contacted me over the years, asking for advice. How do I tell my 5 wife of 20 years that I am crossdressing? Answer: Tell her everything — from the genesis of your condition to your current stage. Tell her what that little boy was feeling and fearing. It is so important for your partner to understand that this is something that has been with you for life — and the feelings are not changing — they escalate. Let her see that confused young boy inside of you (this will help her to have more compassion and understanding). When many crossdressers wives discover that their husbands were boys when they began crossdressing, for many of us it is a relief in some ways. This means your wife and your marriage has NOTHING to do with you being a crossdresser. Some crossdresser husbands try to blame their condition on their wives. “I wouldn’t be doing this if you blah blah blah. “? BS. Of course you would still be crossdressing — do not blame this on your wife. It is not her fault — nor is it yours. EXCEPT for the honesty factor — that is your responsibility. And I would start with the whole truth and do not forget to say, I AM SO SORRY FOR LYING TO YOU. Some never even have the decency to say they are sorry for pulling the rug out from under their wives — the ones they are supposed to love, adore and protect. How many of you have ever been in therapy? For those of you who did tell their wives, how did you tell her? Can you offer others, who want to save their marriage, advice on what worked for you when you told your wife/partner that you are a crossdresser? Did any of you bring your wife to a therapist to tell her? What happened to those who were caught crossdressing? Have you ever told your wife the whole truth about your first time? If so, what was her reaction? The majority of the population has no idea about what causes crossdressing, when it starts, how it starts, and of course the wives are often the most clueless ones. And they are also the ones who are so often hurt by the lies that often accompany most crossdressers. Some free advice — if you have not told your wife yet — time is ticking. She will find out. It is a matter of time. How you handle this situation could determine the trajection of your marriage. If anyone is interested in a consultation, please contact me at cdwives@gmail.com. Blessings, Dee A Levy 6 10 Gorgeous Women Who Were Born As Men Many people don’t realize that transsexual models are popping up in magazines and on runways everywhere. These gorgeous women who were born as men have changed the face of transexual and transgender, bending all the rules, true rebels. And when you’re looking at the photos remember that these 10 gorgeous women were born as men! Which one of these women could you tell were once men? Which one was your favorite? 1. Serbian Australian model Andrej Pejic is androgynous and famous for his ability to model both male and female clothing. In January 2011's Paris fashion shows he walked both the men's and women's shows for Jean-Paul Gaultier and the men's shows for Marc Jacobs. He has also ranked #18 on the models.com Top 50 Male Models list while simultaneously being ranked #98 in FHM's "100 Sexiest Women in the World 2011." 2. Brazilian model Roberta Close was the first pre-operative transsexual model to pose for the Brazilian edition of Playboy magazine. After undergoing gender reassignment surgery in 1989, Close posed nude for a Brazilian men's magazine called Sexy and was then voted "Most Beautiful Woman in Brazil." 3. Hard to believe that Claudia Charriez was born a man, right? Her transsexuality has not stopped her from becoming an international model. Charriez was kicked off of America's Next Top Model and The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency TV shows in 2008, but went on to win the America's Next Top Transsexual Model contest on The Tyra Banks Show later that year 7 4. Brazilian Lea T. was born Leandro Cerezo in 1981, but that didn't stop her from becoming one of the most famous transsexual fashion models in the industry today. Lea has been called the muse of high fashion design house Givenchy. 5. Born Darrell Walls in 1985, American model Isis King gained notoriety when she became the first transgender contestant ever to appear on the modeling reality show America's Next Top Model. King competed on two seasons of the show. 6. Thailand's own Sirapassorn (AKA Sammy) Atthayakorn was named Miss International Queen in 2011's pageant. 7. India's Malika is a trans woman who has undergone four surgeries and countless other medical procedures to become the woman she feels she was meant to be at birth. In 2011 she became the first Indian to be chosen to compete in the annual Miss International Queen competition in Thailand, a beauty pageant for transgendered people. 8 8. Argentinian Florencia De La V began life in 1976 as Roberto Carlos Trinidad, but she has since gone on to be one of the most recognizable transgendered actresses in the world. De La V has appeared on soap operas, in magazines, in clubs, and was once the editor of a magazine. She is currently married to a man and the mother to twin babies conceived via surrogate. 9. Sri Lankan model Chamila (AKA Chami) Asanka is an up-andcomer in the world fashion industry. She was also a 2011 contestant in the Miss International Queen pageant. 10. Caroline "Tula" Cossey (nee Barry Kenneth Cossey) is an English model who is one of the best-known trans women in the world. Cossey had a small role in the James Bond movie The Living Daylights, posed for Playboy, and wrote an autobiography about her experiences as a transsexual model and actress called "I Am A Woman." 9 Shaving Tips: Closest & Smoothest Shave By: FemmeFever (Girls meet our newest contributor to Pretty T Girls Magazine. Karen of FemmeFever.) Karen is a genetic female who began FemmeFever fourteen years ago. After exploring the community and seeing the need for a noncommercial, very caring and helpful resource, she ventured into the transformation and support end of the spectrum. Her background is in social work and cosmetology -- a perfect blend for the community. She also has runway/ modeling experience from "back in the day" also helps her to share deportment information and guidance for picture posing as well as enhanced knowledge of the camera. Her goal is to help all who reach out to realize they can accept and have FUN with their femme self. FemmeFever is based out of Long Island, New York. The gals are welcome here to meet, chat, obtain my services in private and BE THEMSELVES. You can find her website at http://femmefever.com Check it out for all your needs. For the closest shave – wait to shave for as many days as possible before planning to go out – More growth will give you a closer shave. standard razor blade usuallytouches your skin, so it is able to get closer to the bottom of the hair follicle. This typicallyresults in a closer and more accurate shave than an electric razor shave. 1. Use a Quality Razor and Change the Blades ; Always use a good quality sharp razor blade. Be sure the blade is sharp. You're not just cutting off hair, you're also scraping off up to two layers of surface skin when you shave. A dull blade is more traumatic to the skin, making your face feel scratchy and look blotchy - a dull razor is one of the contributing factors to razor burn and shaving rash. Depending on the toughness of your beard, change the blade somewhere between every three and every ten shaves, if you shave every day. Two weeks is too long to go without changing blades. Regardless of the number of shaves, if the blade becomes dull, ditch it. 2. Always shave after a warm bath or shower. The warm water will open your pores and soften the hairs. Consequently the hairs are easier to cut. Make Sure Your Beard is Thoroughly Wet One of the keys to a great close shave without irritation or razor burn is to make sure your beard is thoroughly wet. Facial hair will absorb moisture up to 30% of its volume. Hair swollen with water becomes quite weak and therefore easier to cut. Showering before shaving is the ideal way to ensure you beard is properly moistened. If a shower is not possible, rinse your face and then apply a warm moistened towel to your face for at least a couple of minutes. This is the technique that barbers use. Never shave cold or apply shaving products to a dry face - this is one of the leading causes of razor burn and shaving rash. 10 3. Use a shaving cream that has a high concentration of lubricants (eg silicones) and moisturizers. The best shaving creams create a rich creamy lather and do not foam up like the cheaper drug store brands. The less "foaming" in the shave cream the better, as it is what is in contact with the skin and beard that matters - all else is wasted. Less resistance, less irritation and less nicks also mean a longer lasting blade! While the primary function of the shaving cream is to lubricate your face so that the razor will glide smoothly and effortlessly across the surface, it also serves to lock the moisture into the whiskers, keeping them soft and upright, primed for the cut. The ideal scenario is to leave the shaving cream on your face for at least a minute before you begin cutting, so that the beard is as soft and wet as possible. 4. Shave in you hair-growth direction. Use short, light strokes until you cover the entire area. 5. Rinse with cold water pat dry with a soft towel. The cold water will close your pores and tighten your skin. More Tips: A Shaving Brush is One of the Best Tools One of the best tools you can use to achieve the optimum shave is a shaving brush (as top barbers do). A shaving brush does a couple of things. First, it helps raise the hair so that a closer cut is possible. Second, it helps create a rich creamy lather with the shaving cream that stays close to the skin. And, finally, it helps remove dead skin cells (exfoliation) which reduces the chance of blemishes, razor bumps and also helps the skin look and feel smooth and healthy. Always look for a shaving brush with bristles that have the right balance between softness (to create a rich creamy lather that stays close to the skin) and resistance to raise the beard (making a closer cut easier!) 1. Apply the shaving cream using the brush in a circular motion ending in an upward stroke to help lift the beard up and away from the face. 2. As to which brand of razor to use - we think you can't go wrong with any of the Gillette Mach series. Of course there are very high quality and expensive razors available at specialty retailers that you may want to try. Rinse your blade under hot water before you begin to shave and after every few swipes. This removes the accumulated shaving cream, whiskers, and skin gunk. The use of hot water here is to help lubricate 3. Use the Razor Properly ; Ideally shave in the direction of the beard growth. Start with the sides, then the moustache area and last the chin. The chin hairs are the toughest, so this allows them the most time to soften under the shave cream. Shaving against the direction of hair growth gives a closer shave, but has two drawbacks: A. It's a good way to donate blood, and You run a high risk of cutting off a hair below skin level, causing an ingrown hair (razor bumps) - the whisker grows into the surrounding tissue instead of out of the pore, resulting in inflammation and possible infection. 4. …. To avoid these shaving problems, again, shave "with the grain" (that is, in the direction your hair grows). Each person's facial hair has its own growth pattern. If you are unsure of the direction of your beard, let it grow for a day or two and you'll see it. 5. You also need to let the razor do the work - do not press too hard or it will cause razor bumps (ingrown hair)and razor burn. By the way, you do NOT need special razor bump products - 99% of the razor bump problem will be solved by not pressing too hard, shaving with the grain and using a good shaving cream. 11 6. If you want an even Closer Shave If you wish to achieve an even closer shave (as many barbers do) apply some more lather from your brush (add more cream if necessary) to the areas you wish to shave again. Keep everything moist. This is one of the extra advantages of using a brush. For most guys, re-shaving certain areas with the grain should do the job. Professional barbers, by the way, usually first shave with the grain, and then re-shave going sideways - but they're trained professionals! Rinse the blade thoroughly before you put it away. (The water temperature isn't going to have any impact on bacteria; you're rinsing the blade to get rid of hairs, shaving cream, oils, and gunk, not to kill bacteria. You'd need to boil the razor for that or rinse it in alcohol, which is not necessary.) After rinsing, shake the razor, but do not wipe the blade with a towel or tissue - that will just make it dull faster. 7. Cleanse and Soothe After Shaving After shaving, when the skin is most vulnerable, rinse the face with warm water and use a facial wash that has a high concentration of tea tree oil (a natural antiseptic that is ideal to help cleanse and protect from spots and shaving rash) and witch hazel (for its soothing, healing and astringent properties). 8. Rinse with the coolest water that is comfortable and pat dry with a clean towel. (Don't rub! Just pat) 12 Coming Next Month Wigs, Wigs, Wigs.. How much do you know about wigs? Many of us are not blessed with that beautiful head of crowning glory and so we must depend on the wig to compensate for what we naturally do not have. Some, even though they have a beautiful head of hair will still on occasion wear a wig to make a quick change of color or style. Girls I want you all to give a special thanks to Karen of FemmeFever as she is going to supply us with a five part series on wigs. How do you choose a wig, what is the difference in synthetic and human hair wigs and which should you get, how to care for your wig, how long will it last, how do you store it if you can’t put it up on a block? These and many more will be answered by her in this series. Do you have a question that you would like for her to answer in this series? Drop her a line at Karen@femmefever.com Karen is a genetic female who started femmefever 15 years ago. After exploring the community and seeing the need for a noncommercial, very caring and helpful resource, she ventured into the transformation and support end of the spectrum. The first year she created FemmeFever, she kept it part time, but after seeing first hand how many people she could help and after developing a true love and understanding of the community, she went full time with my services and incorporated many needed avenues into it to better service the community. This is the 15th year she have been running FemmeFever full time and exclusively for the Crossdressing, Transgender Community and their loved ones. Her background is in social work and cosmetology -- a perfect blend for the community. She has runway/ modeling experience from"back in the day" also helps her to share deportment information and guidance for picture posing as well as enhanced knowledge of the camera. Her goal is to help all who reach out to realize they can accept and have FUN with their femme self. I do this through both paid and free support and by sharing the information one needs to get started in their journey and by providing places to go in order to meet others like themselves. FemmeFever is based out of Long Island, New York. The gals are welcome here to meet, chat, obtain her services in private and BE THEMSELVES. Check out Her website at http://femmefever.com 13 8 Beauty Mistakes You're Probably Making (and How to Fix Them) By Real Simple Magazine By Stephanie Abramson Look and feel your best with these easy ways to head off everyday beauty blunders. Common Mistake: Using Conditioner All Over Your Hair Most people apply conditioner as they do shampoo: starting at the top of the head and working it all through the hair. But the hair closest to the roots is healthy new growth; it's the ends that are older and more likely to be damaged. Apart from wasting product, conditioning the roots can weigh your hair down and make it look greasy, says Gina Lees, a stylist with the Adolf Biecker Spa, in Philadelphia. A better way: Starting at your ears, apply conditioner all the way to the ends. You will gain volume and won't have to wash your hair as often. Common Mistake: Applying Foundation Without Giving Moisturizer Time to Dry The creaminess of a moisturizer can cause makeup to thin out if the moisturizer hasn't had enough time to soak into the skin. "This can result in blotchiness and ultimately limit the amount of coverage your foundation can offer throughout the day," says Laura Geller, a makeup artist in New York City. A better way: Wait 60 seconds, until the moisturizer is absorbed. Or, if you're short on time, blot your face with a tissue after moisturizing, then apply foundation. Common Mistake: Spraying on Perfume After You Are Dressed Perfume can stain fabric, and fabric fibers can make perfume smell unpleasant. "Fragrance is formulated to be applied to the skin, where it interacts with the heat of the body," says Terry Molnar, executive director of the Sense of Smell Institute, in New York City. A better way: Before dressing, lightly dab or spray it onto the skin at one or two of the "pulse points"―knees, wrists, base of the throat, and behind the earlobes. And don't rub your wrists together. This breaks down a perfume's molecular structure. 14 Common Mistake: Plucking Eyebrows Too Close to the Mirror When you're focused on every little hair, you don't keep track of the shape of the entire eyebrow. The result? Thin or uneven brows. A better way: Find a large mirror near a window, then step back a few feet to survey your face, says Ramy Gafni, owner of RamySpa, in New York City. Brows should be in proportion to your face shape and the placement and size of your features. Move closer to the mirror and begin tweezing. Step back after every few hairs to check the symmetry of your brows. Common Mistake: Neglecting Your Neck When you take care of your face, don't stop at the chin: The skin on your neck can be thinner and more sensitive than the skin on your face and just as prone to changes in pigment, elasticity, and texture―and, yes, to wrinkles. A better way: When applying sunscreen to your face, keep going, covering your neck and even your chest. (Spread some on the backs of your hands, too―another vulnerable area.) "A separate neck cream is not necessary―these are marketing ploys," says Ole Henriksen, owner of the Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, in West Hollywood, California. Your day and night face moisturizers, as well as most treatment creams, should work just as well on your neck. But if you use products containing alpha hydroxy acids or retinols, do a spot-test first. Common Mistake: Using Moisturizer to Reduce Puffiness Around the Eyes A salty diet, among other things, can cause fluid retention around the eyes. Step away from the eye cream! Hydrating ingredients hold water in the skin, so moisturizers and eye creams may make your eyes look even puffier, says Heidi Waldorf, the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, in New York City. A better way: If the skin around your eyes is puffy but not red, irritated, or itchy, apply a cold compress or an ice pack for 10 to 15 minutes. You could also follow up with a lightweight eye gel containing caffeine, says Waldorf. If your eye area is puffy, red, irritated, or itchy, see a dermatologist. You may have an allergic rash. 15 Common Mistake: Using Moisturizer to Reduce Puffiness Around the Eyes A salty diet, among other things, can cause fluid retention around the eyes. Step away from the eye cream! Hydrating ingredients hold water in the skin, so moisturizers and eye creams may make your eyes look even puffier, says Heidi Waldorf, the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, in New York City. A better way: If the skin around your eyes is puffy but not red, irritated, or itchy, apply a cold compress or an ice pack for 10 to 15 minutes. You could also follow up with a lightweight eye gel containing caffeine, says Waldorf. If your eye area is puffy, red, irritated, or itchy, see a dermatologist. You may have an allergic rash. Common Mistake: Overmedicating Blemishes Ack! You have a breakout. So you blast it with a spot cream. Then, for good measure, you douse it again. "Most of these treatments contain acids that penetrate the skin for hours after they are applied," says Ciraldo. "Overuse can result in a burn that causes redness, peeling, and irritation." A better way: Follow the directions on the medication's package; most say to use it once or twice a day. Avoid drying out your skin. You're Doing Your Brows Wrong: 7 Expert Tips For Perfect Brows Rule number one: don't over-pluck. By Amy Marturana To paraphrase the Millionaire Matchmaker: "perfect eyebrows — everyone wants them, but not everyone has them." It is well worth striving for perfection, though, because good brows set a good foundation for your whole face.To help the over-tweezed amongst us, we turned to Anastasia Soare, a celebrity brow expert and founder of Anastasia Beverly Hills, for tips on grooming and maintaining our brows. To start with a good base, Soare recommends getting a professional wax — as in, not from your local nail salon. Most women should get waxed every six to eight weeks, depending on how fast their hair grows. But if you maintain your brows correctly, you could be able to stretch out that time even further. If you've got low-maintenance brows, these at-home tips may be all you need. 1. Get the right brow equipment. Soare recommends to keep these essentials in your makeup bag: • Tweezers: "A good pair of tweezers will last you a lifetime if you take care of them," she explained. Get a pair with a slanted tip to you can really get in there are pull out even the finest hairs. • A brow pencil: If you don't have super full, luscious brows, you'll also need a good pencil or pen. • A brow powder or wax: because if you're a little sparse, the powder will have nothing to hold onto. The pomade is waterproof and smudge-proof so it will last all day. "It goes on like a cream but dries with a powder finish for an extremely natural look." • A brow brush: You’ll also need a great, stiff brush with a spooley (i.e. the tip of a mascaara wand) at 16 the end to blend the product to keep it from looking harsh. A brow gel: Whether it’s clear or tinted, it will keep brows in place all day long and set the look. If you have light hair, a tinted brow gel can create an extra bold look. Or, you can use a clear brow gel — or even clear mascara — as a top coat to set your brows. 2. Follow your natural brow shape. "One of the biggest mistakes I see women making is creating the wrong shape for her face by creating a brow that is either over or under-arched," Soare explained. To nail the perfect shape, she recommends following your bone structure for your most complementary brows. 3. Trim the longer hairs occassionally. Keep a pair of nail scissors handy for this very reason. It's actually an easy way to fake a brow shaping — just don't go overboard. Trim just the tips of the hair—1-2 millimeters maximum. Then, style with a pencil as normal. 4. Stop over-tweezing — please! You might think that when it comes to brows that less is more. But remember, ladies, full brows are always in. "When tweezing your brows, the tendency is to take a hair from one side and try to match it by taking a hair from the other side. Soon you have over-tweezed brows that take months to grow back," Soare warned. To avoid going overboard, start by drawing an outline of your desired shape with your brow pencil. After creating the blueprint, only tweeze hairs that fall outside the area. 5. Use the right color. This might sound like a no-brainer, but Soare says she sees women come into her salon every day with brows that are either way off compared to their hair color. The best way to create balance and definition (without overpowering your face) is to go about one shade away from your hair color. "If you have very light hair, you go one to two shades darker. If you have dark hair, choose a shade that is one to two shades lighter," Soare explained. 6. Conceal stray hairs. If you have small dark hairs showing through before it's time for your next appointment, pluck them with your tweezers. Soare also recommended using an opaque highlighter or concealer to highlight the brow bone and bring definition. It'll also help hide the hairs and tide you over until your next appointment. 7. Ditch the magnifying mirror. Are you an overplucker? Soare recommended a step away from the magnifying mirror: "It will give you a false perspective of how your brows actually look." Use your regular old bathroom mirror so you can see your brows in the greater scheme of things. Seeing them as part of your entire face will help you find the best shape and know when to stop plucking. 17 How to Use An Eye Shadow Quad in Real Life Alexandra Perron Let’s take a minute to talk about eye shadow quads. You’ve probably purchased one in the past because, well, they are really pretty—like little packages of candy. It’s hard to resist the vibrant colors pressed into ladylike compacts, let alone the idea of creating dozens of groundbreaking looks with your new allneon palette. Unfortunately reality hits pretty soon after you make the purchase. You’re only using one shade and once it’s down to a few flecks of powder you’re left with three tropical shades and no clue how or where to use them. Now what? Rule number one? Make sure you like at least two of the colors before you buy a quad says makeup artist Kristin Hilton (she’s the woman behind Uma Thurman and Allison Williams’ killer red carpet looks). “If you find yourself looking at those bold colors in your quad thinking you may never wear them, try using them with an angled brush and apply the color as a liner,” Hilton says. She suggests lightly dusting any bright pink or peach shades on the apples of your cheeks for a hint of color, or any very dark brown shades to fill in your brows. But you can use the whole thing on your eye: “I often use the lightest shade to illuminate the inner corners of the eye, the medium shade blended into the crease or on the lid and the darkest shade as an eyeliner,” Hilton says. If it’s a smoky eye you’re after, a quad is your new best friend. Hilton says to start by lining your eye with a dark brown or black pencil and blend the color upwards and outwards using a smudge brush. “Next, take your darkest shade and apply it over the dark pencil, blending the color out. The best way to soften the look is to take your medium shade and blend everything using that. It should go from darkest to light; focus on bringing the shape outwards to elongate the eye.” Many of the colors available in quads are limited edition and not always available as a single shadow— which is what makes them so tempting—but if you’re having trouble finding a quad that works for you, brands like M.A.C. and Urban Decay let you build your own. “A quad is going to give you options, and it might also open you up to experimenting with colors you wouldn’t normally work with,” Hilton points out. “You might actually discover that your favorite color is the one you would have least expected.” 18 A Lesson in Tightliner: Eyeliner that Actually Makes Your Eyes Look Bigger By Allure Daily Beauty Reporter by Kayleigh Donahue Kyle Ericksen/WWD Raise your hand if you've been here before: You stand in front of the mirror in the morning, liner in hand, ready to make your eyes look as dazzling as possible. You use a light touch and a steady hand--you're an Allure reader, after all--but when you step back, you realize the skinny rings have somehow managed to make your eyes look smaller. The good news: If you shift those very same lines a few millimeters, you'll create the illusion of big, open eyes without a trace of any obvious makeup. It's just a matter of nestling the eyeliner pencil between the roots of your lashes as well as carefully tracing it along your upper waterline (the rim where your eyelid meets your eye). Makeup artists call this tightliner or invisible eyeliner. With a bit of practice and the right pencil (mechanical, not wood), it's almost impossible to screw up. How's that for eye-opening? 1. Choose the right tools for the job. If you don't want your line to disappear in the blink of an eye, opt for a waterproof formula. 2. Line your top waterline. Raise your chin and place your nondominant index finger above the outer corner of your eye, lifting upward. Then, holding the pencil vertically in your other hand, trace back and forth under your lashes. Go over it a few times, and stop before you reach the inner corners to prevent eyes from looking beady. 3. Darken the roots of your top lashes. Gently pull your top lid taut by pressing one finger on the outer corner. Bury the tip of the pencil deep into your lashes at the outer corner of your eye, wiggling it back and forth as you move inward. Take your time and don't be afraid to really mash the tip into your lashes. 4. Accentuate your bottom lashes. Holding the pencil just below your inner rim--but not at the waterline--lightly dash the pencil right at the base of your lashes. For intense color at the root, use a creamy liner in a pot, like Rimmel London ScandalEyes Gel Eyeliner. It creates the richest, inkiest color--the best option if you want dense-looking lashes. 5. Clean it up. Run a pointy cotton swab (like Muji Thin Cotton Swabs) dipped in makeup remover along your top and bottom lids to erase any mess. 6. Curl your lashes. It will solidify the wide-eyed effect you're going for. Then swipe on some black volumizing mascara, top and bottom. 19 The Adventures of Judy Sometimes By: Judy Danials A surreal moment or two. A couple weeks back it was decided rather than to fight the crowds on New Years Eve a few of us would go out to a nice place for dinner and drinks dressed to the nines. After all, what girl can resist a night out on the town in a pretty dress...not me. Our choice of venue was a place called Basies, located in our local Ramada Inn. This place holds fond memories for me as its one of the places I "cut my teeth" on so to speak. My dear friend Careen used to be a bartender/server in the restaurant and kindly held my hand threw many of my first public bar experiences oh so many years ago. As you recall in an earlier post my wife and I had went out shopping for new dresses for this occasion a couple weeks ago and I was really excited to show off my choice, a sleeveless, deep v with a full skirt and bolero style jacket in black. I started my transformation process about for 4:00 and my wife arrived home soon after. Here's where the first surreal moment takes place. Let me tell you ladies, there is nothing more special than getting ready for a night out on the town with your wife, especially when you’re going out as two women. Our plan was to meet up at our favorite watering hole for a drink before heading to the restaurant. My wife and I were the first to arrive and believe me, (surreal moment #2) it was definitely a weird feeling walking into a blue collar bar in an evening dress. Around 7:40 we headed to Basies and our special evening was about to begin. As we entered the lobby area it was decided that we all needed to freshen up a bit so we headed to the ladies room. All the rest of the ladies needed to tinkle so I proceeded to just powder my nose and reapply a fresh coat of lipstick. As I waited off to the side I began watching all of my lady friends primping in the mirror as I had just done (surreal moment #3). A warm glow suddenly came over me knowing just what a special moment this had been. As we entered the restaurant we received quite a surprise, there was a band playing...a country band to be exact (Basies is known for their Jazz music). Now, it’s been quite some time since I had been here and the place has been completely remodeled. Basies is definitely known for their fine dining experience in the past and don't get me wrong, it still is, but being dressed to the nines while listening to a country band was a little weird to say the least (surreal moment #4). Basies is also known for their steaks and specialty rubs and tonight was certainly no disappointment as we all chose a plate full of red meat along with a bottle of wine and a couple of desserts to share. The best part of the meal was our 50% off coupon; we saved $120 on our total bill. 20 Of course there’s always room for more so we headed back downtown to have a nightcap and ended up at the Empire, yet another blue collar bar. After all, in our hearts, we are all Dive Bar girls. Judy (The party dress season has began) sometimes Módhnóirí.. BY BARBARA MARIE DAVIDSON “GENDER NON COMFORMING” INSERVICE (part 1) AT GEORGIA SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY STATESBORO GEORGIA This is just a fancy new terminology for “Making A Difference In The Classroom”. November 6th found a total of four members from Sigma Epsilon, which is the Atlanta chapter of Tri Ess, giving our presentation to Psychology Students at Georgia Southern. It was a busy day as Phoebe and Valerie (current President) left Atlanta early Thursday morning and arrived in Statesboro about 1215. I met them at Gnat’s Landing and we joined Dr Theresa Yancey (the Professor) and her sister for a quick lunch. We arrived at the classroom a little before 2 p[m as the class was from 2 pm to 315. We had yet another class to follow after this one (Part 2 – next issue of the PTG Magazine). Per our routine, Phoebe led off the presentation by talking about the TG line/umbrella and brought out the tern – Gender Non Conforming. She then mentioned about being transgendered and what it means to some folks.. Then she told a little about herself after which she gave Valerie the floor (this was Valerie’s first presentation) After a short “Bio” of her self, she turned the floor over to me. When I was done, I opened the floor to Questions from the students, no hold barred when it came to answering the questions. At the end of the class a few of the students stayed behind to have pictures taken with us, however, Dr Yancey had to leave thus we failed to get a photo with her for this article. We had a short break after this class of about 1 hour before we were preparing for the second class (part 2) IN the section below are comments from Dr Yancey’s students concerning feed back about the class. Thresa Yancey’s Class – Student Comments One thing I disliked was Valerie’s comment about ladies not wanting to go to the “projects.” I thought it was highly offensive, because in my opinion it was a “nicer” way of saying black men. Otherwise it was very nice. It was definitely an eye-opening experience from beginning to end. It challenged my preconceived notions I had about the topic and was educational in the process. While the topic still makes me uncomfortable. 21 I really enjoyed the guest speakers. I enjoyed learning about their lives and the things they do. The information they shared educated me. I did not have any knowledge about cross dressers before they came. I think it is awesome that they felt comfortable enough to come talk to our class. The presentation was helpful because they did shine the light on the cross-gender subject. The guys who presented spoke very freely and openly about their experiences and what their motives are because I often think guys who cross dress have feminine tendencies and are homosexual in the sexual orientation. They beat a lot of the stereotypes and answered my questions effectively. I appreciated their visit. I liked how comfortable the cross dressers were about talking about their experience. I also liked how honest they were with the questions they were being asked. Very well presented. Very informational. Each person had a very unique story. My first interaction with a transsexual. Thanks for taking a pic with us J. I think they did an amazing job speaking to our class. I have so much respect for them for being so willing to talk with us! I have zero negative thoughts about Thursday. Keep it going! I wish they had a more planned discussion as far as topics of questions they are normally asked to take the pressure off of asking a question and risk looking like an asshole. I thought it was very honest and I appreciated that they felt comfortable enough not to answer questions that make them feel uncomfortable, such as disclosing names. It made me feel good to ask those questions I’ve never had answered before because my dad periodically cross dresses but neither of us feel comfortable enough to discuss it with one another, unfortunately. It was nice to be able to ask all questions we wanted, and them not hesitate to answer. Thought they gave good backgrounds. Should designate one person to answer questions to avoid talking over each other. The presentation with the transgender panel was awesome. I thought it was very informative and great to be able to hear it from people who actually have lived this lifestyle. I would’ve liked to have heard more about how it has affected them personally and emotionally, to get a better idea of what they have been through. I loved it. They were very informative and funny. I felt like they were thorough when answering everyone’s questions. I thought it was very interesting. I liked how they gave background information on their lives. Phoebe did a good job of first explaining what transgender means. I loved the presentation Phoebe, I know you said your wife knew the entire time you guys were married. I don’t remember you explaining how you told or how she reacted. We appreciate you ladies taking time 22 out of your schedules to meet with us and your honesty in responding to our questions. It was an awesome presentation. They were very open and I liked that. It must’ve been hard to share. I liked how open they were about the lifestyles. It answered many questions I never even knew I had about the cross-dressing culture. Outfits were on point! It was very helpful in understanding why they like cross-dressing. Very helpful on how to approach friends/family if they want to cross-dress. They were awesome. I really liked hearing how each of the ladies viewed cross-dressing—I never thought of it as something they felt they HAD to do, I thought they did it just because they wanted to dress differently. I like that none of the ladies said they did it for the attention or the reactions, like some people think. Instead, they were firm in saying they did it for themselves. Barbara was very sweet when I talked to her before and after class J The presentation was wonderful. Most of the questions I thought about asking were answered during each individual introduction. I enjoyed the enthusiasm and honesty that was shown. The presentation changed my views on people who cross dress. I never knew the difference between drag queens and cross dressers until last week. I liked the way questions were addressed. Overall, it was very informative, while at the same time sharing your experienced made me understand more about the topic, so thank you for sharing. I enjoyed the presentation. Thank you for sharing with us your own experiences with how others, especially your family deals or dealt with your decision to come out of the closet and express your desire to be a cross dresser in public. It was nice to get perspectives from both men and women. Barbara, Valeria, and Phoebe were very nice to answer all of our questions about their lifestyle that they live. Although I don’t agree with it, it was nice to get a glimpse of their lives as wanting or having to be someone else than their biological sex. I liked the way they explained the difference between cross dressing and transgender. I wanted to hear more about why they felt the need to cross dress and what they felt when they dressed as a man. I LOVED the presentation in class this past Thursday. It was very neat to hear your stories and to have a better understanding of cross dressing. I thought that you were all very fun and open. I also liked your sense of humor with some of the questions; it definitely made the situation more relaxed. There is one thing I would change. I wanted to hear more from you about your experiences and everything and less time for questions. I thought the presentation was helpful to understand some of the typical stereotypes that are given to cross dressers. It helped me realize and understand it is not what most people think it is. I am more open to the choices of individuals who choose to participate because I know some of the reasons. I thought the presentation was very insightful and helpful. I would actually like to see this being a bigger discussion, not limited to the classroom, but maybe in a ballroom on campus. I think it would definitely be helpful for close-minded individuals. It helped me and my understanding. 23 Tasi’s Musings, February, 2015 Greetings from Merida Is it hot? Wilbur Scoville created a method to measure every chili pepper "hotness" there is in the world. Author Enrique Vela created a book called " El picor del Chile Mexicano" where he graphically classified over 60 kinds of Mexican Chiles. You luckily do not have to go too far to face the hottest one, "The Habanero pepper" a yucatecan pride, is served daily in our local cuisine. If you have lived here long enough and you mingle with locals you know that Mexicans require a daily chili dosage of endorphins to face their difficult lives. Before you embrace completely this Mexican tradition and want to try all kinds of peppers at your rhythm and little by little the photo brings some samples of gradual hotness of the most traditional Mexican varieties. Be careful with the degree of hotness because testing only the initial bite is not enough for they didn't mention the degree of hotness in the aftermath. In the News 11 Ways 2014 Was the Biggest Year in Transgender History. Transgender people are already everywhere, even if their lives go unnoticed. But in 2014, transgender people truly were everywhere— from the red carpet to the runway, from TV to D.C., and from the cover of Time magazine to the pages of a New York Times bestselling memoir. Visibility is no substitute for change, but 2014 bore witness to plenty of the latter as well, with a series of legal victories that will make it easier for transgender people to find employment, update their legal documents and receive healthcare. Although there's still a long way to go before anti-transgender violence becomes a thing of the past, 2014 is likely to be remembered as an important step toward a more inclusive future. 24 Morocco's transgender dancer courts acceptance. It was a slow night on the red carpet at the opening of the Marrakech film festival for the photographers and everyone was complaining over the lack of celebrities. Then a car pulled up and out stepped Noor Talbi, Morocco's most famous belly dancer. The photographers went wild. Darling of the jet set and a fixture for any society party or hotel opening, Noor's statuesque six feet frame was clothed in a spangled, off-the-shoulder ball gown slit up the side to reveal her long legs. In this conservative Muslim country where homosexuality is illegal and punishable by up to three years in jail, a transgender woman like Noor is not only accepted but is a celebrity. Her ability to seemingly transcend the restrictions of her culture speaks both to her star power and to a certain kind of tolerance toward sexual minorities in this North African nation — and even in the wider Middle East Dr. Rachel Levine could become the highest-ranked transgender woman in Pennsylvania state government history. Levine, who transitioned from male to female about five years ago, was announced as Wolf's physician general on Saturday. The physician general position, which was created under former Gov Tom Ridge, must be confirmed by the Pennsylvania Senate. HRC Takes Action Against Saks Fifth Avenue for Undermining LGBT Equality. Today HRC took the rare step of suspending Saks Fifth Avenue’s Corporate Equality Index (CEI) score. The action was taken following Saks’ claims in response to a lawsuit that Title VII protections don’t apply to transgender employees and that the company is not legally bound by its own LGBT equality policies. The death of Leelah Alcorn, the transgender teen from Ohio, has made major news around the world. Here’s one such apology that I thought was particularly poignant. An Apology Letter to Leelah Alcorn Gender-bending fairy doll sparks outrage in Argentina. A fairy doll that has a female body with male genitalia has sparked outrage in Argentina. The toy came to note after a mother shared pictures of it on Facebook, after her three-year-old was playing with it. In addition to having long hair, a dress, make-up and fairy wings, peeking under its clothes reveals a bulge in the shape of male genitalia. It is not known whether the extra feature of the doll – which was made in China and sold in a discount shop – was intentional, or whether it is a manufacturing defect. 25 The doll has found unlikely support from transgender people in the country – with some hailing it for helping to break down gender boundaries, whether deliberate or not. Books, Movies, and Television Amazon, ‘Transparent’ Make History at Golden Globes. Amazon proved itself a major player in the television field when its original program “Transparent” won the Golden Globe for best TV series, musical or comedy and star Jeffrey Tambor won best actor. Not only was it Amazon’s first-ever Golden Globe award, “Transparent” also became the first online series to ever win a best series award, comedy or drama, at the annual awards show. The Boy in a Dress. Here's a cute British comedy about a boy in a dress. Just what you need for a down day or any day. Enjoy The former Prime Minister of Japan has debuted as a drag queen. Yukio Hatoyama, who served as Prime Minister of Japan from September 2009 to June 2010, appeared this week in Tokyo musical ‘Waist Size Story’ The former leader played the role of Rosario, a fictional US President who served as the country’s first female Head of State. Move over Hilliary. 26 The Art of Being Normal. David Fickling is a publisher with a knack for spotting talented voices for the YA market, and his most recent discovery is actor turned writer Lisa Williamson. Her debut novel, The Art of Being Normal, deserves to attract attention not only for its sensitive portrayal of life as a transgender teenager but for the author’s aptitude for crafting vivid, engaging and convincing characters who keep you rooting for them through the many testing obstacles she puts in their way. Want to know what TG films were shown in 2014. Well GLAAD Media Awards has announced their nominations. GLAAD is an advocacy group for the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender community, and the awards will be presented during a ceremony held March 21 at the Beverly Hilton. Films including “The Imitation Game,” “Pride” and “Tammy,” along with television shows such as “The Fosters,” “Transparent” and “Pretty Little Liars,” were among those nominated today for the 26th annual GLAAD Media Awards, honoring portrayals of the LGBT community and issues affecting their lives. You can preview the 10 Best LGBT Documentaries of 2014 here Discovery Life Channel explores lives in transition with transgender series ‘New Girls On The Block’ premiering April 2. The series follows a group of highly inspirational and entertaining women from Kansas City, Mo. – all friends, some couples – who just happen to be transgender. Fashion Target Is Launching a Plus-Size Fashion Line Women Actually Might Want to Wear. This is actually an interesting story. Last August, blogger Chastity Garner wrote a compelling takedown of Target — announcing her decision to boycott the retailer for failing to offer its popular designer collections in plus sizes. That boycott is coming to an end. On Wednesday Target announced Ava & Viv, a new fashion brand designed specifically for “the plus-size woman who loves fashion.” The line, designed by Target’s in-house team, offers clothing in sizes 14W to 26W and X to 4X and will be available online and in stores come mid-February. Click the link to watch the video. Fashion Tip: As for strap slippage, here's what Heidi has to say, "Many women with narrow or downward-sloping shoulders have issues with slipping straps. If you are one of these ladies, you should choose a U-back style bra. The straps are set narrower, and the U-shape back connects the straps so that they won't slip." A general rule of thumb to keep in mind when shopping for bras is the more coverage a cup has, the less straps will slip because as the cup comes up higher on the body, the strap sits away from the edge of the shoulder. 27 Humor So until next month, Hugs……Tasi 28 Humor JOHNS HOPKINS WEIGHT STUDY The National Institutes of Health has just released the results of a $20 million research study completed under a grant to Johns Hopkins. The new study has found that women who carry a little extra weight live longer than the men who mention it. 29 Angels In The Centerfold Tammy Trueheart R E A BD E A CM C S A Carol N A T A L I E J A N E 30 Mellissalynn’s Tips & Tricks Al right, ladies, it’s February. All the fun and newness of the New Year is past now, and it’s time to get serious about thinking about spring. In other words, it’s time to start thinking about getting our bodies ready to see the sun again! Time to bust out the exfoliation tools as well as the defoliation tools! Pretty soon we’ll be baring legs and feet again…and there’s no better time than the present to get ready for that! January was an interesting, but not a bad, month for me. I picked up a couple of new clients in the salon, got to teach a few new classes at school, and celebrated my daughter’s 18th birthday. The CUI meeting was a good one; I drove to Springfield for myself for a change and did a little bit of shopping prior to the meeting. I visited a Torrid for the first time and found some great stuff! I’ll be back there again. I also found the most amazing dress at Dress Barn, which you’ll see pictures of. Now I have to be a little bit careful on money, as next month is the America’s Beauty Show in Chicago. This is the big hair show I’ve gone to the last two years. This year, I have definite goals to accomplish there! Items I want, items I need…and just the fun of roaming around and maybe even picking up some techniques. It’s been fun every time I’ve went so far, and I expect next month to be the same. So tell me about your January, ladies! Was it wonderful to you? Are you enjoying the weird weather 2015 is throwing at us? I love the fact that I had dresses drying on the clothesline yesterday, in the heart of January! Anyway, tell me all about it! Write me at mlatjnadhmelly@gmail.com! I answer any and all mail I get, so feel free to tell me about anything you want to chat about…and in the meantime, let’s get to the tips & tricks! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ I’ve been reading about products that will give you a quick facial pick-me-up, and by quick I mean instantly. They’re called instant-fix wrinkle and pore vanishing formulas. Look for one that contains some silicone, to fill in the wrinkles, and small light-reflecting particles. The reflected light will soften 31 the area and create a flattering effect. The product can be used alone, but for our purposes, it’s best to use it under foundation, much like a concealer. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ I’m getting into Mellissa’s Germ-phobic Corner early in this article, and it’s a subject that’s painful to me as a cosmetologist to even bring up. What I’m about to say has the potential to take money out of my purse, but I’m more concerned for your safety, ladies! Recently, the national news ran a story regarding the use of artificial lashes and how they can be dangerous to your eyes. I personally enjoy using the fake lashes, as they add serious dynamic to my eyes! Here is what the news says, though: “Normal-length lashes protect the eyes by creating a zone of stagnant air just in front of our precious orbs, researchers say. But when lashes are longer, they actually funnel air to the eye’s surface, and that can make them vulnerable to dryness and dirt.” The optimal lash length for protection? One-third the width of the eyes, is what the experts determined with various measurements. The study was performed across different species and this number was a constant in most species. Another issue with artificial lashes is the glue used. “has high levels of formaldehyde and benzoic acid, both of which are harmful to the cornea. On top of that, as the eyelashes grow out, the extensions tend to point towards the cornea and you can get corneal abrasions.” If anyone wants to read the entire article, it’s on the NBC Today show website. Here’s the link: http:// www.today.com/health/lash-extensions-may-dry-out-your-eyes-what-you-need-1D80415843? cid=eml_tes_20150110 . I’m interested in hearing your opinions on this, girls! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ I want to talk about some camera tricks to help bring out your best in photos. I’m one of those (obsessive) girls who will take a shot twenty times if I’m working on photos of my own, and then fiddle massively with the photo editing software, just to get that perfect shot. Here are a few things I’ve found that help with achieving photo Nirvana. 1. To avoid a double chin, elongate your neck and push your face forward a bit. Think of sticking out your forehead and tipping your chin slightly down. It might feel awkward, but it will look great! 2. Make sure your makeup is a perfect match. When a foundation is too pale for your skin tone, it becomes very obvious when the flash hits the skin. Match your skin to your chest and add a thin layer to your neck if your neck is paler (as seems the case for most people). And please, ladies, remember to blend your foundation at the hairline and the sides of your face! The camera will pick that up in a heartbeat. 3. Curled lashes and mascara are absolute musts! Both open up your eyes, and the eyes are the focal point of any picture. You want to draw people into a picture, so you want to maximize the impact of the eyes. They more open they are, the more the light will hit them. 4. This is one that I find to be very important. Take a look at your favorite selfies and try to spot a 32 pattern. Do you like the way you look from a certain angle? When you smile a specific way? Try to recreate your best poses the next time you have your photo taken. 5. Look toward a light right before someone snaps your photo. Doing so will shrink your pupils and help you avoid red eye. 6. I mentioned photo-editing software. I don’t normally recommend products int his column in any way, but a GREAT free photo editor is theGIMP! This is an extremely powerful editing program, in many ways an equal to Photoshop itself, and of course far superior to Photoshop in pricing. I did mention it’s free? I’m not going to link it on here, but you can find the program for download very easily online. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Do you shake your nail polish before you start applying it? That’s a bad idea! You can actually create air bubbles in your polish by doing this. Air bubbles can cause a less-flawless application. Instead, roll the bottle between your palms. Also, when you finish (and I think I’ve shared this tip before, but it bears repeating), remember to wipe down the threads on the bottle top with a bit of polish remover before you put the lid on. This will make it easier to open the next time you want to use your polish, and can also prevent leaving gaps that air can enter the bottle through. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Here’s a nifty way to apply your lipstick to give it almost an ombre effect. Use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to apply your lip color! It will give your lips a diffused effect around the edges. You can intensify the color in the center of your lips and give them the I-just-ate-a-popsicle finish by using a flat brush to swipe lipstick onto the middle of your mouth only. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Check out this nifty DIY homemade nail polish remover jar! All you need is a sponge, a jar, and polish remover. Stuff the sponge into the jar, soak it in polish remover acetone, and there it is! This will work well for gel shellac polishes or glitter polishes that are very difficult to get off. In this instance, use acetone and let your nails soak in it for a bit. Be careful not to leave your nails in pure acetone for too long, however; it can weaken the nails and isn’t great for the skin either. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ This is a small makeup pro tip I learned recently at the bridal exposition I attended in January. I have to stop a second and gush about this, girls! The dresses were to DIE for! It so saddened me that I had to attend in boring boy mode, as many of the girls from the school were invited to try some of the dresses on. 33 But I digress! This tip involves your black eye liner. When applying black eyeliner to your entire eye, don't connect the top and bottom lines. This will give the eye a closed-off look. Where the lashes begin and end is where the liner should start and stop. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ How are you at parting your hair? It looks so easy to do, but as any budding cosmetologist can tell you, it’s a tricky thing to get right. Here's a quick way to part your hair perfectly in the center. Run your pinky finger up the bridge of your nose and create the part exactly in line with it. Even if your nose is a little crooked, the part will be centered for you. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ I want to talk a moment about facials. For those of you who have never had a full facial, they’re an experience that simply can’t be enjoyed enough. Here’s a quick way to get some of the benefits of a facial at home, using baking soda and water. Take about a teaspoon of baking soda, add it to water and mix it into a thin paste. Massage this paste over your face and rinse with warm water. This will give you the exfoliation you receive in a proper facial. Follow this with a splash of witch hazel or a good skin toner (available at most drugstores). After doing this, to continue the DIY theme, follow up with some plain yogurt. Apply about a tablespoon of yogurt over the clean skin you just created, relax with this on your face for about ten minutes or so, then rinse it off and pat your face dry. The yogurt is full of good stuff for the skin, stuff like vitamins and minerals that will heal, moisturize, and help regenerate your skin cells. Many people aren’t aware that as we age, our skin slows down the cell reproduction. Additionally, for smokers, this will help clear some of the residue from smoking from your skin. And it feels so good! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Is the cold air outside making your skin dry and itchy? Look for a lotion that contains eucalyptus oil. There is a fatty acid in the skin called ceramide that gets depleted in the winter months, due to the cold air. Ceramide gets replenished by the eucalyptus oil, leading to softer smoother, and less itchy skin in less than a week. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ A little-known fact that we discussed in the makeup class I was teaching last week at school came to my 34 attention. Some women have lips that aren’t the same shade. To balance those out, fill in the lightercolored lip with a lip color matching the darker lip. Afterward, apply your lipstick as normal for perfectly matched lips. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ A quick blemish-concealing tip: stipple your concealer over the problem area instead of sweeping or brushing it on. More concealer hits the area this way and will better conceal the issue. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Let’s discuss drying your hair, girls. When you dry your hair, do you use a dryer? If so, are you using a heat protectant on your hair? How about when you flat iron or curl your hair? If not, you’re damaging your hair every time you do this. Heat protectants are designed to help deflect some of the heat from styling tools, yet still let the tool do its job. Sadly, there are women (and men) out there who aren’t using this vital stuff. Don’t be a statistic! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ If you have naturally curly hair, you may get frizzy as your hair dries. There's a simple solution to this issue: don't touch it! Wait until your hair is at least 90% dry (either let it air dry or use a diffuser on your dryer) before touching it. Once you’ve reached this point, you can give it a tousle with your fingers to style. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ One of the more annoying things I see clients asking for is to have color put in their hair right after shampooing it. Don't wash your hair immediately before applying color! Your hair needs the natural oils to protect your scalp from the dye, and it also helps the hair shaft absorb the color more easily. By shampooing first, you’re actually making it harder for the color to do its job! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Do you have trouble matching your natural lip color? Here’s a handy tip to do so. Use the color of the middle of your lower lip as a guide when shopping for your perfect lip shade. The most flattering one for you is just a bit brighter than that spot. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Red lipstick can look good on anyone. It’s all about finding the right red. If you have red or pinkish undertones, you’ll want to go with a cool red with a pinkish or bluish undertone, or even a pure red. Skip the orange based reds; those, or peach-toned reds, are for skin with yellow undertones. If you have olive skin, you should look for a pure red. Any skin tone is complemented by brown-based reds. 35 @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ And with that bit of knowledge, darlings, I bring the column to a close. I’m off to get some beauty sleep before a long day in my salon. Two haircuts, an all-over color, and a permanent; such is the life of a stylist who’s making some money! I love my job…! Can you all believe that it’s almost spring? Next month is the month, girls, so start picking out those sundresses and sandals! I’m very excited about this myself. I have new dresses that I’m just so excited to wear! If you have a dress to tell me about for spring, or you want to know what I charge for an all-over color, or you have a tip or trick to share, please, please, please share! You never know when you might show up in the column. As always, you can reach me at mlatjnadhmelly@gmail.com ; the inbox is always open! Talk to you all in March! 36 5 Outfits That Hide Love Handles By Lesley Kennedy Call it what you will: Muffin tops, love handles or spare tires. If you have that un-fun extra flab around your waist, it could likely use a little middle management. The good news is disguising the area is actually quite easy when you arm yourself with the right clothing arsenal, such as stiffer fabrics, camouflaging prints, high-waisted bottoms, strategically placed pleats and color-blocking. (And trying these muscle-sculpting moves that specifically target the area doesn’t hurt either.) Ready to get a handle on those love handles? Here are five outfits to take your midsection from flab to fab in no time. Dress for Success Denim is a smart fabric choice when you’re trying to disguise your waist. Material that’s too lightweight tends to cling, which is not what you’re after when you’ve got a roll or two to hide. This dress is loose, but not boxy, which can actually make you look larger, and the darker wash on the pockets offers an illusion effect, making that muffin top disappear altogether. Add a high wedge sandal and a fun, bright clutch that draws attention away from your middle to complete the look. Prints Charming When you have love handles, reach for a high-waisted pant; low-rise versions only emphasize what you’re trying to minimize. Find a style with a wide leg, which helps balance out your wider middle, and a print, like this black and white Aztec, which provides a flattering distraction. On top, try a long, loose tank that drapes with some added color-blocking to draw the eye up. Throw on a flat sandal and glamorous sunglasses, and head to brunch without giving those waffles a second thought. 37 Skirt the Issue Love handles will simply fade away when you don a full skirt in a thicker fabric with pleating that helps flatten out your tummy. Add a long cardigan and tank top—the double lining helps hide bulges—in similar shades for that long, lean look, and nude pumps to keep the whole ensemble sleek. Short and Sweet Again, a high waist helps cinch your love handles in, so a denim short will keep your love handles in check while letting you show off those toned legs. On top, wear a loosefitting blouse in a pretty print—and if it’s a little longer, all the better. For added flair and to draw eyes up to your face and away from your waist, throw on a great floppy hat. Love handles? Where? Not on you. Maxi-mum Impact There’s so much to love about a maxi dress—it’s effortless, chic, comfortable, versatile—and when you choose one with an empire waistline, it totally hides your love handles. Whether you stick with a simple black or another solid color, or go for an interesting or bright print, the style is just plain forgiving. Accessorize it for day by just adding flip-flops and a tote, or night by pairing it with a great necklace (this one is attached!); a fun, quirky bangle; or a brightly colored clutch to draw attention away from your middle. 38 Your Most Flattering Shoe Style Tasi Zuriack High heels are a guilty pleasure for most of us. Although they have been blamed for a range of health problems from bunions to back pain – flats are probably not your best friend either. So, let’s get straight to the point, pointed-toe heels favor every woman’s body, whether you have a petite figure or a curvier shape. In fact heels help give you that girly figure and even work well for a tall girl. Why? The sharp toe extends the line of your leg and gives the illusion of slimmer, longer gams. It should not surprise you to hear that I regularly wear high heels (from my favorite pair of red pumps to gladiator sandals and boots) and would suggest that if the heel height is correct, you too can wear heels, from a few hours a day to all day. Every woman has her own perfect heel height, depending on the structure of her feet. If you take this into account when buying shoes, you can improve overall foot comfort considerably. Indeed, if you are a naturally high-heeled woman who keeps wearing flat shoes such as trainers or ballet shoes, you will be going against your natural foot type and will cause your feet no end of stress The height of your heels can make or break an outfit. Properly worn, high heels can make casual attire super-sexy in seconds and can make your legs appear to go on for miles. However, sometimes the middle ground is best, and 1 or 2″ heels can emphasize calves in a classy, professional manner when you are in the workplace. Finally, there are just some outfits that need flats, and knowing how to identify these outfits is one of the critical skills that you need to insure that your shoe selection does not make you appear silly or–worse — a bit “trampy.” Follow these guidelines to determine what height heel suits you and your attire best. 39 The highs and lows… For some women the recess of the sinus tarsi is moderate and a 1″ or 2″ heel will do the trick but others need a 3″ heel to elevate the foot into an arched position. For them wearing heels will be more comfortable than wearing flats — but beware a heel that is too high A heel of up to 4.5″ is fine; anything more than that is bad for your posture as it makes your bottom jut out and overloads the toes and balls of the feet. These heels can be worn for short periods only, and are made for limos, not for walking. Heels not only have to be the right height but in the right position: not too far back, but under the center of the heel so they support your weight properly, following the natural line of your body. The structure of the heel counter – the part of the shoe that holds your heel – is also very important. If it is too squashy and unsupportive, it will not give enough support, and that can cause heel pain. Cheaper ballet pumps are particularly prone to do this. Emma’s guide to being well heeled • To find your perfect heel height, take off your shoes, sit on a chair and extend one leg straight in front of you. • Where would your heel touch the ground? With your leg stretched out in front of you and the knee supported, make an imaginary line from the heel to the ground. • If your foot is at a right angle to your outstretched leg and does not dangle, you have a low ankle-joint axis and will be more comfortable in flat shoes than in high heels. Kate Moss is the standard-bearer for flats - they are obviously 40 what suit her feet best. If your foot points down, you need to measure the distance between the top of your big toe and an imaginary line from the bottom of your heel. This is the right heel height for you. Measure it against your favourite shoes – the ones you swear you are most comfortable in, no matter how high or low. I can almost guarantee the heel will match it. So here are some possibilities for you. For more information see the Lookbook on Sister House Link for “Lookbook” is Outfit Ideas for the Transgender Woman. Do you love the shoes? Who wouldn’t? But do you know how to put them together with an outfit? Here’s two examples taking that D’Orsay pump from casual to dressy. When you travel, pick your shoes first and build your outfits around them. The possibilities are endless. Hugs……Tasi 41 Guide to walking in high heels without pain Carolyne Zinko, Chronicle Staff Writer The difference between sultry stilettos and frumpy pumps is three-fourths of an inch, or so says Victor Chu, a former shoe designer who has developed a cottage industry for himself— and perhaps increased the libidos of thousands of men - by training women to walk properly and painlessly in high heels. Chu says high heels and happy feet are not an oxymoron, if only women hold themselves correctly while walking. Last week, he flew in from New York, bringing his prowess to Azalea boutique on Hayes Street to give free lessons in the art of seductive walking - just in time for holiday parties, when even the most practical among us can be tempted by a sparkly sling-back or metallic mule. "Unsexy shoes are anything under 2.75 inches," Chu said. "A 2-inch heel is a little dowdy. Too classical." Plenty of people could benefit from lessons - everyone from the fictional Carrie Bradshaw, who took a famously embarrassing catwalk spill in TV's "Sex and the City" to the real-life runway models for Pucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana who fell during Milan Fashion Week earlier this year, and even Miss U.S.A., Crystal Stewart, who took a tumble at the Miss Universe pageant in July - as did her predecessor in 2007. (The YouTube clip has been viewed nearly 3 million times.) Despite the potential hazards, stilettos may do wonders for your love life - if you believe the Italian researcher who reported earlier this year that high heels might improve pelvic floor muscles, which are integral to sexual satisfaction. Other researchers say high heels have something to do with the evolution of primates, wiggling derrieres and signaling sexual availability. Of course, podiatrists have been known to advise patients to stay away from them altogether. Chu may not have walked a mile in another woman's Manolos, but his experience designing sport and dress shoes as a consultant for the Tommy Hilfiger label from 2000 to 2004 gave him a different kind of perspective. He decided he had a calling to share his know-how while chatting with a colleague, Cece Chin, who has her own line called 80 20 shoes. As they sat on a park bench in New York, the conversation turned to wondering why every woman they knew had a problem walking in high heels. "There's only so much you can do to a shoe's heel to make it comfortable, before you make it unsexy," Chu recalled saying. "Then we said, 'Wait! How do the Rockettes do it?' " It turned out that a friend of theirs danced for the Rockettes. She told them the key to wearing high heels is in walking mechanics. Most women incorrectly shuffle their feet, placing their weight on the ball of the foot and throwing their bodies off-balance, Chu learned. It sounds simple, Chu says, but the three keys to wearing very high heels successfully are: -- Standing up straight, as if you were pulling a string from the top of your head -- Keeping your abdominal muscles taut by sucking your belly button in toward your spine, which pulls your body weight back onto your heels -- Walking heel to toe with a slightly exaggerated hip sway, rather than mincing around on the ball of the foot. 42 Basically, it comes down to working your core - as Pilates, yoga and plank exercises do. To that end, Chu and Chin developed a video called "Legworks" ($14.95; www.legworkdvd.com) a 28-minute exercise program to limber and stretch your ankles, calves and thighs, as well as strengthen your abdominal muscles to make it easier to maintain balance and posture while walking in high heels. Heels not needed at gym That's not to say that it's a good idea to exercise in high heels. Chu recommends against it, even though there are Crunch gyms in New York that began offering "Stiletto Strength" classes in 2006, and other gyms that offer classes in jazz, burlesque and pole dancing to women wearing high heels. Stiletto sprint footraces have even occurred in Australia and New York in recent years. The ever-increasing heel height, along with the high pitch that pushes the arch forward, is making stiletto strutting trickier than ever. This year's platform trend ameliorated some of the difficulty - a 4-inch shoe is really only a 3-inch heel on a 1-inch platform. (Thank goodness the Bay Area doesn't generally have snow and ice in winter.) "Swaying," says Chu, "transfers energy from the heel to the hip. A lot of women think they know how to walk in high heels. But they have wobbly ankles and stiff knees from pitching forward, or they have a sort of escalator-like look from leaning backward too much, in overcompensating." Maybe it was because San Franciscans don't tend to wear ultra-high heels like our cosmopolitan cousins in New York, or perhaps it was because fewer people are out shopping this holiday season, but attendance at the Azalea workshop was light. Among the handful of women who showed up for a lesson was Nicole Kaufman, 27, a designer for Old Navy, a line that makes lots of fun clothing but is not known for sexy shoes. Kaufman, who lives in San Francisco, says she has a dozen pairs of heels. She prefers shorter heels and wedges for work, but stilettos for nighttime wear. She got her first pair of high heels in high school and on her first outing, "struggled" with them. "I learned like everyone else to bear the pain and push forward," she said. Putting on a pair of black leather gladiator pumps in size 9, she glided around the floor while Chu watched. "She's got a natural hip movement and good posture," he said, comparing her with another attendee who was a bit more reserved and mechanical in her walk. "Here's an issue I have," Kaufman said. "I have short toes and I feel like I don't have stability in high heels." Chu recommended more core exercises, along with a special trick recommended in the video - sitting in a chair in bare feet and grabbing a sock or a handkerchief with your toes. "It strengthens your arches," he said. "It should help." 43 In February, an Italian study of 66 women younger than 50 by Dr. Maria Cerruto showed that those who wore heels high enough to lift their feet at a 15-degree angle from the ground - at least 2 inches had as good posture as those who wore flats. The findings suggested that the pelvic muscles were "at an optimum position, which could well improve their strength and ability to contract," according to an article in the Feb. 25 Main Report Health and Wellness Letter. "The pelvic floor muscles are an essential component of the female body. As well as ... sexual performance and satisfaction, they provide vital support to the pelvic organs, which include the bladder, bowels and uterus." Role of evolution A report on "The Evolution of Sex Differences in Language, Sexuality and Visual-Spatial Skills," published in the February 2000 issue of Archives of Sexual Behavior, authored by Dr. Rahn Joseph of the Brain Research Laboratory in San Jose, suggested that as primates' brains evolved and became bigger, women's pelvises had to grow wider to accommodate the increased head size during childbirth. This, in turn, forced her upper legs wider apart and her knees closer, "thus altering her gait and balance, causing her to wiggle her derriere when walking." "Presumably, this alteration, coupled with the evolution of new muscles to aid in the upright stance, accentuated and drew attention to the female derriere and her sexual availability: a sexual-social signal accentuated in modern women through high heels and tight clothes, in the last century via the bustle and hoop skirts, and in previous centuries via dresses designed to exaggerate grossly the width of the hips." Is fashion really pushing us into high heels for the sake of trendiness? We might be able to blame our shoe fetishes on biology. Your step-by-step guide to stepping out in stilettos 1 Stand tall, as if pulled by a string from the top of your head 2 Tighten abs by pulling belly button in toward spine, causing weight to shift back to your heels 3 Walk heel to toe, not on ball of foot, 4 Sway hips slightly to help shift weight to heels 44 Golden Rule of Fashion It's All About Endings By Cynthia Nellis This capri length is a Don't. The golden rule of fashion will explain why. Once the weather gets warmer, women start to break out the various-length pants. Which means that instead of jeans or full -length pants — which are fairly easy for most women to pull off — there's a wider margin of error between the bermudas, capris and crops. Now, in general, I'm not a huge fan of capri pants because I think either short or ankle-length pants look more modern. But I still see them everywhere. If you're going to wear them, at least wear them right. So let me make pant lengths simple, by sharing the golden rule of fashion: Never wear anything that hits you at your widest point. Garments that "end" at your widest body part cause that body part to visually widen. In short: you look fatter. And we don't want that. Here's the rundown of the golden rule of fashion in action: Capri pants (pants that have a hem that ends mid-calf) Capri pants stop in exactly the widest part of the lower leg. To make it worse, many capris have a relaxed or loose fit: it all makes you look frumpier and wider. A better choice: A crop or ankle pant ends around the ankle (a slimmer part of the leg) and is flattering on just about any woman. For athletic wear, try a fitted workout capri that ends right under the knee and exposes your calf. Cap sleeves. Cap sleeves are often touted as a viable option to sleeveless; but because they end at precisely the widest part of the upper arm it's a very unflattering look on women who are concerned about their upper arms. A better choice: An elbow-length sleeve (which has a hem at the slimmest part of the arm.) Hip-length jacket. If you think suits make you look boxy, it may just be the type of jacket you are wearing. If you have wider hips, as many women do, and choose a jacket hem that stops right at the widest point, you'll create a strong visual horizontal line at your heftiest point. A better choice: You can actually correct this problem by creating a waist for the jacket if it's softer construction by 45 adding a belt (the eye then travels to the small waist instead of the hem.) You can also opt for jackets that are either cropped to end at a small waist or slightly longer than you widest part of the hip. • Longer skirts. The mid-calf skirt is still a favorite of mature women everywhere, but unfortunately it also adds to a frumpier appearance because the hemline stops at exactly the widest point of the calf leaving your legs look stumpier. A better option: A hemline that ends at or right below the knee. • Short shorts. A mid-thigh short -- unless you have slim thighs -- is a tough look to pull off because it stops right in the middle of your thigh. A better option: A short that's a bit longer and has a hem at a slimmer part of your body. Hair. Did you know that even your hair length can make you look frumpier if it stops at an unflattering length? If you have things you'd like to conceal – like a double chin or neck wrinkles – consider hair styles that are either longer or shorter than the problem area. 7 Simple Ways to Improve Your Appearance (MTF Transgender / Crossdressing Tips) ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Lucille Sorella is a GG (genetic girl) who teaches crossdressers, transsexuals, and transgender females how to look, act, and feel like real women. Her goal is to help T-women express their inner and outer femininity and increase their confidence as women. She has a professional background in fashion, beauty, dance, and natural healing and has been working with the transgender community for the past 12 years. Her website is loaded with useful information and is located at http://www.flat2fem.com/index1.html . Do you think that looking your best means you need a head-to-toe makeover – or even feminizing surgery? It doesn’t! Looking beautiful often comes down to a few simple changes. Of course, the basics are important. Nice hair and makeup, flattering clothes, and a reasonably fit body are a great starting point. But beyond that, it’s the details that make or break your feminine image. Want to look better right now? 46 Here are 7 simple ways to improve your appearance: 1. Reshape your eyebrows Your eyebrows literally create the frame for your face. For better or for worse, they have the power to transform your entire look. The good news is that there’s a lot you can do to shape and feminize your eyebrows – even if you can’t pluck. 2. Invest in a great bag I’ll let you in on a secret you may not have noticed: Women often judge each other based on their handbags. Why do you think women in certain circles pay thousands of dollars for the latest “it” bag? I’m not saying you need to buy a Gucci purse, but investing in a quality handbag will add polish and style to your appearance – AND give you instant fashionista status. 3. Get rid of excess body hair The truth is, physical attractiveness often comes down to good grooming. One of the keys to good grooming – and a feminine appearance – is to get rid of excess body hair. You already know that your beard, chest hair, and hairy legs have to go. But don’t forget about the less obvious spots, including your: Nose Ears Knuckles Toes 47 4. Wear the right shapewear The right shapewear can have a dramatic effect on your silhouette. It smooths out excess flesh and helps to feminize your proportions. The best shapewear for you depends on your outfit and how much shaping you need. Consider investing in the following garments: Control top pantyhose. Perfect for smoothing out your trouble spots, they also add polish and definition to the legs. Waist cincher. Use this when you need extra shaping in the middle and want to carve out an hourglass shape. Shaping camisole. Wear one under your everyday clothes to smooth your belly and love handles. Control top pantyhose Waist cincher Shaping camisole 5. Find your best lipstick shade You already know that lipstick is a must for your feminine transformation. A Manchester University study found that women are perceived as more attractive when they wear lipstick – even if they have thin lips! The secret is to wear the right shade of lipstick. Here are two quick tips for selecting your best shade: For the most flattering look, your lips should be the same intensity as the iris of your eye. (The iris is the colored part of your eye.) For example, if you 48 have light blue eyes, wear a light shade of lipstick. If you have dark brown eyes, a deeper shade will be the most flattering. To easily test lipstick shades, put different colors on your fingertips and hold them against your mouth to see which looks best. 6. Whiten your teeth Yellow teeth dull your appearance. Don’t underestimate the impact of pretty white teeth. A white smile brightens up your entire face! I suggest using a whitening toothpaste daily and doing a whitening treatment every six months. There are some great at-home options, including: Crest 3D Whitestrips Dr. Song Home Professional Teeth Whitening Kit Rembrandt Intense Stain Dissolving Strips 7. Get enough sleep They don’t call it beauty rest for nothing. A lack of sleep shows up on your face – no matter how pretty and feminine you look. Didn’t get enough sleep last night? Try this free guided mediation and take a 20 minute beauty nap! Small changes add up to big improvements The bottom line is that there are a LOT of ways to improve your appearance without having to invest in a new wardrobe, hire a transformation service, or go under the knife. Little changes can have a big impact on your feminine image! 49 The Occasional Woman - Footwear Lorraine Anderson |(reprinted from TG Forum) Hey there, my little chickadees! I certainly hope you all are out there enjoying the lack of snow, and reveling in the many opportunities we ladies have to saunter around in flirty dresses and audacious sandals. And don’t forget sassy beach cover-ups, wicked water wear and bloomin’ blouses. I know I am. Did some one mention sandals? Oh, right, it was me. I would like to visit the subject of summer (and other seasons) footwear. I am sure you know the importance of footwear when accessorizing a successful and lovely outfit, but allow me to bring up a few potential problem areas. First, we all love us some sandals, don’t we! And we want to look super-bitchin’ in them all the time. The perennially stylish sandal makes a sly show of our fee ties — and I ask you to put on a sandal without stockings or hose of any kind. Then, take a goooood long look, both with your eyes and the mirror: do you see nasty, ashy, cracked and dry feet? Really? Foot care time! Get thee a pedicure – OR just use a pumice stone (gently) in the bathtub and carefully scrub that dry rhino-hide off! Then after careful drying, it’s time to use some nice foot lotion. If you’re doing this foot care at night then use something with lanolin in it, but not a whole sheep’s worth. (Note: If you are diabetic or have some gross bunions or some rash/fungal unhappiness, you know my motto — seek professional help!) 50 No! The other thing about which I am strident is your ability to adequately perambulate in heels – if you can’t walk in the shoes, you can’t wear the shoes! I see womenfolk all the damn time mincing and tottering in heels to which they are not accustomed, and it ain’t pretty. Practice at home and do try to be realistic when buying shoes – If you cannot safely master the art and skill of walking easily in heels, and with a minimum of pain, don’t buy them or wear them. You will be amazed at how much a good podiatrist can cost if you torture your happy feet too much. I hope you and your two (or one, as the case may be) footy friends have a swell rest of the summer, and wish you love, peace and – shoes! The Occasional Woman website and on Facebook. About Lorraine Anderson: I am a native Californian who has been based in the Philadelphia area since 1984. My first CD fashion creation was a gold lamé dress for the now esteemed editor of this publication. Since then I have made tons of fabulous frocks and other fashion apparel for the crossdressing and transgender community. Visit my website, The Occasional Woman or my Facebook page. 51 11 Timeless Style Tips Everyone Should Follow By Lesley Kennedy Remember that old fashion rule about not wearing white after Labor Day? So not true anymore. And the notion that you can’t mix patterns? Talk about outdated. But there are plenty of style rules that not only continue to hold true, but following them will also make you look taller, leaner and—naturally—more stylish in a snap. Your tailor is your best friend. Good tailoring makes all the difference when it comes to how flattering your clothes look on your body, allowing you to play up your best assets and camouflage the parts you’d prefer to play down. “Learning how to accentuate your best attributes is all about the cut of your clothes, so you need to be aware of your silhouette and making sure things fit,” says celebrity stylist Erin Walsh, whose star clients include Kerry Washington, Sarah Jessica Parker and Maggie Gyllenhaal. “Tailoring allows you to accentuate that best version of yourself. Also, you won’t wear the things you buy if they don’t fit you right.” Don’t sweat the size on the tag. Cut them out if you have to, because tags are meaningless, Walsh says, as different designers work off different sample sizing. “It’s about you, not the number, whether it’s on the scale or the tag,” she says. “It’s about how you feel, the confidence you have and the kind of statement you want to make. It has nothing to do with the tag—I can’t stress that enough.” Hem your jeans to match your shoes. Tailor the hem of each pair of jeans and pants to match the heels you want to wear them with, suggests Walsh. In other words, the hem should work with either your flats or your stilettos—it can’t be both or else your pants will look too long or too short. Invest in good undergarments. “Undergarments are as important as the lotion and deodorant you put on each morning,” Walsh says. “When you start with a good base, the rest of you just feels more comfortable.” And your clothes fall better on your body. The goal is to keep lines under wraps for a more streamlined look (read: no visible panty lines). And make sure you have a bra that fits. “Get measured at a store,” Walsh says. 52 Balance out your top to bottom. Rule of thumb: If you’re wearing something baggy on top, wear something fitted on the bottom, and vice versa. “When it comes to proportion, if you’re wearing an oversize jacket, do a skinny pant,” says Walsh. Her favorite look: a trapeze-style top worn with a slim capri pant—think 1960s Audrey Hepburn. A statement necklace or scarf can transform any outfit. Never underestimate the power of a statement necklace or a colorful scarf to elevate even the most basic outfit, says Jacqui Stafford, YouBeauty Style Expert and author of “The Wow! Factor: Insider Style Secrets for Every Body and Budget.” “The simplest, most boring T-shirt and jeans can be absolutely transformed if you just add a necklace or scarf,” she says. Just consider your neckline when choosing your accessory, Stafford notes. Wearing a turtleneck or a style that’s cut close to the neck? Opt for a long necklace to add length. Embrace your shape. “Rather than worrying about dieting and trying to get into a certain size, when you dress for your body shape you can look 10 pounds thinner tomorrow,” Stafford says. The key is to highlight the best parts of your body and accept your unique shape, she says. “Women waste so much time wishing for what they don’t have rather than making what they do have look spectacular,” Stafford says. “Focus on figuring out what looks best on your body. Once you know what works on your body shape, you will look younger and slimmer just by wearing the right clothes.” Nude pumps go with everything. “They’re genius,” Walsh says. “I love playing with different colors and patterns, with shoes in particular, but in terms of elongating your leg, a nude pump works every time.” Just make sure your nude shoe matches your skintone. Splurge on two great bags. For running around town, Walsh recommends reaching for a large framed bag, such as a doctor style one, which is big enough to fit your newspaper, water bottle, snack, wallet, passport, etc. And while clutches are great, Walsh says a cross-body bag can’t be beat when you can get away with something smaller. “They’re very convenient and streamlined,” she says, “and you won’t leave it behind in the taxi.” Don't always get sold by sales. We’ve all been there: Sure, those pants are snug, but they’re so cheap, you’ll surely drop a few pounds and fit into them soon, right? Or, yeah, that bright orange top is a bit much for you, but it’s on clearance! Remember, it's only a bargain if you wear it. When in doubt, wear black. It’s slimming and sexy and never goes out of style. And if you’re worried about smudging deodorant on your black clothes as you slip them on, Walsh, who has teamed with Dove Advanced Care Deodorant, recommends the brand’s invisible solid that won’t leave marks on your clothes. But if the white stuff 53 does make its way onto your LBD, Walsh suggests this trick: Simply rub the fabric together to erase it— or wipe it away with a dry sponge. How Does a Transgender Woman Shop for Clothes in Stores? By Quora Contributor This question originally appeared on Quora, the best answer to any question. Ask a question, get a great answer. Learn from experts and access insider knowledge. You can follow Quora on Twitter, Facebook, and Google Plus. Answer by Tamara Wiens, I am happy now: Being transgender can present some particular challenges when shopping for clothes, particularly when first starting. In general, I would say that, unless you are in a jurisdiction that has laws and penalties for being in the "wrong" bathroom, change room, etc., just do it. If you are in a situation where you are going to transition to full time, you need to start doing it sooner or later, and as others have said, it can still be nerve-wracking after you are full time. And if you plan on ever going out in public "en femme," even without transitioning, the same argument applies. The thing is this: In department stores in particular, there is very little scrutiny: Women come in all shapes and sizes, and there are lots of men browsing through, either idly waiting for their female companions or because they think that they can buy them something, or whatever. More generally, in public, very few people actually "see" anyone else—the last time you were in a store, can you recall more than a handful of faces that you encountered? Unless you are blatantly not fitting in, most people won't notice you at all. As for the change rooms, you have two strategies. The first is to take your selections to the change rooms of whatever gender you are presenting as while you shop and show as little as you need to of the items that you have (if you're at the men's) and try them on. The second is to boldly go to the women's, where you can get an employee to get you another size of the item when needed, if you are in a women's clothing store. If you get any grief from the change room checker, ask to speak to the manager on duty—most managers realize that the satisfied customer is a repeat customer and don't care what color, gender, or orientation your money is, just that you spend it with that store. Some of them are stupid and don't think about the fact that a satisfied TG who feels "safe" will spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on clothes. (I've spent close to $10,000 in the last 18 months, building a professional woman's wardrobe from scratch.) In that case, shake the dust off your shoes and politely let him or her 54 know that the store will get no more of your trade, ever, and that you will publicize its intolerance. In one of the happy jurisdictions that prohibits discrimination on the grounds of gender presentation, you can even sue or threaten to sue—but that's much more fraught, as you will have to come out publicly to do so. A few hints, learned expensively: When buying clothes, don't buy anything if you don't love it on the rack and equally love it when you try it on. We often fall out of love with an outfit that we used to like; we rarely fall into love with an outfit that we didn't originally like. To save time and avoid buying something that just won't ever look good, take the time to figure out what styles work for your body type and what don't. If you are carrying extra weight, formfitting styles have a tendency to emphasize all the wrong bulges. If you have broad shoulders, then square-cut shoulders make them look broader. If you have big feet, then wide-bottomed legs on slacks make them look smaller, and so on. There are online sites and in-person courses for all women on buying to suit your body shapes. Buy styles appropriate to your apparent age. This is important. I look 10 to 20 years younger than I actually am, so I can get away with clothes that would look somewhat silly on another woman who looked my actual age. One thing that too many of us do is try to be "sexy" by wearing miniskirts and crop tops, or by wearing the fashions of our own teen years. While that is a fashion statement of sorts, it will likely get you the kinds of attention that you don't want. Discreetly look at the clothes that women your age are wearing and buy similar fashions, and you'll blend in just fine (if that's what you're looking for). Bottom line: If you want to do it, eventually you have to do it, and there is no way around having a "first time" shopping for your preferred clothing, or en femme, or what have you. And, as with any first experience, it will be scary and exciting and embarrassing and fun and so jumbled up that you will likely only remember bits and pieces of the experience. Have fun, and good luck! 55 The Gossip Fence Transgender In The News 10 Transgender Trends for 2015 (Bala Cynwyd, PA) Dr. Sherman Leis, founder of The Philadelphia Center for Transgender Surgery, has identified 10 important trends that will affect America and its transgender community in 2015. "Although society has made a great deal of progress for the transgender community this past year, we still have a long way to go," said Dr. Leis. "Having recently observed Transgender Remembrance Day (November 20), it's sad to see that there are still too many victims of transgender violence," he said. Dr. Leis' annual list of trends include: 1) More children and teenagers are coming out identifying as transgender. Thanks to expanding transgender education, supportive institutions and societal acceptance, transgender children will be able to reach balance with gender dysphoria at an earlier age, resulting in an improved quality of life. 2) More mainstream health institutions are recognizing a need for specialized transgender care. Major children's hospitals in Philadelphia and Boston, for example, have opened separate departments for transgender health and care for children. 3) More insurance companies are covering transgender surgery and health care because a growing majority of Fortune 500 companies request it, influencing the entire business community. 4) Transgender surgery is more accessible now as the Affordable Care Act (ACA) and Medicare are more available to everyone. This is a big step but a limited solution because most independent doctors do not accept Medicare because their fees don't begin to cover their costs. 5) New transgender surgery techniques and equipment result in better outcomes and safer surgeries. Patient care is also improved as more training courses are being offered for medical professionals. 6) Global standards are being set. The World Professional Association for Transgender Health (WPATH) has implemented a certification process for mental health professionals internationally. Mental health is a critical step in the transitioning process. 7) Dramatic breakthroughs in medical science will change the transgender world. For example, a recent uterine transplant at the University of Gothenburg in Sweden, resulted in the birth of a healthy and developed child. Although still in the testing phase, this could mean that transgender women who have transitioned from male to female, may be able to receive a uterine transplant from which they could give birth to their own biological child. 8) Improving care from the medical community - unfortunately today, there are still too many physicians, urologists and gynecologists for example, who draw a line when it comes to treating transgender patients for common health issues, saying that this is not their area of expertise. We see a trend towards wider acceptance of transgender people as regular patients from health care providers overall. 9) The fact that more states are voting for same sex marriage indicates that more politicians, representing their own communities, are becoming more understanding and accepting of LGBTTI rights. 10) There has been a significant increase in media interest in transgender news and issues this year. As well, in the entertainment industry, there has been an increase in the number of transgender characters included in mainstream plays and television shows, such as "Orange is the New Black," on Netflix. 56 Gender identity all in the head Are you male or female, or something in between? A new study from the MedUni of Vienna reveals that brain structure is significantly different between males and females - and that trans-gender individuals are something different too. Whether we are defined as a male or female is an important part of our identity. For most but not all people, their gender identity and physical characteristics match. For those people that do not match, their identity is referred to as trans-identity or transsexual. In a new study, brain researcher Georg Kanz of the University Clinic for Psychiatry and Psychotherapy of the MedUni Vienna has found that gender identity of each human is present in the links between brain regions, reports Science Daily. For the study, the researchers compared 23 female-to-male and 21 male-to-female transsexuals with female and male control participants using magnetic resonance tomography (MRT) imaging. The researchers found significant differences in the structure of the brain connections between male and female control participants. They also found that the transsexual participant's brain connections were different than the male and female control participants. The researchers discovered a strong correlation between the structural connections in the brain networks with the testosterone levels measured in blood plasma. The research demonstrates that gender cannot always be identified by physical appearance. Gender identity can also be influenced by biological sex, sex hormones and sexual orientation. If gender is established by the psyche, the brain is responsible for human thoughts and feelings which provide a neural representation of gender identity. "These results suggest that the gender identity is reflected in the structure of brain networks which form under the modulating influence of sex hormones in the course of the development of the nervous system," said Rupert Lanzenberger of the University Clinic for Psychiatry and Psychotherapy of the MedUni Vienna. The study was conducted by the Dutch Institute for Neurosciences in Amsterdam with cooperation between clinics of the MedUni Vienna. Inside A Finishing School for Transwomen Situated in a ranch house within the leafy suburb of Piscataway, N.J., the Le Femme Finishing School aims to teach transgender women and cross dressers the finer points of how to be a lady, from the best makeup to clothes for each body type and also feminine etiquette and how to walk in heels. Owned and operated by Ellen Weirich, known professionally as Lady Ellen, the school has had countless clients since she first started the business in 2005. Much of her students are from the New York City area and work a range of jobs such as waiters, computer scientists, and even one who works in international diplomacy. She has had clients from all over the world, including Ireland and India, who are drawn to her via word of mouth and her website. Average age ranges from 45 to 65, with her youngest client at 18 and the oldest in her 80s. Past the living room and into Weirich’s sunroom, stacks of clothes from evening gowns to business wear hang from hooks while wigs of soft hair, in colors such as strawberry blonde and jet black, grace a corner. Storage containers hold a treasure trove of mascara, lipstick, blush, and other makeup. Another holds corsets, girdles, waist cinchers, hip pads for a more womanly shape, and realistic-looking breast forms for every size. Shoes are neatly stored in a rack. The business, a part-time endeavor, is a labor for love for Weirich, who only started making a small profit in the school’s seventh year. “It grew very slowly. Each year, we have had more clients,” she said. “At times, I ask myself why am I putting all this time and effort. But then, I would look at the letters that people have sent. They were able to move forward, accomplish goals, and meet friends. Yes, this is why I do it.” Weirich started the business after meeting a woman who considered herself genderqueer but was born a man. She had a side business where she rented out an apartment and taught cross dressers and transgender women how to put on makeup and clothes. “That sounded so much fun. I want to do that,” said Weirich. 57 Her services include a makeup session for a night out for $50. Women can also pick and choose a menu that includes image consultation, shopping assistance, photoshoots, feminine movement classes, full transformation, and pre-party makeovers. With many of these services topping at $200. Her daughter, Elaina, 24, a trained costume designer and makeup artist, helps out by sewing clothes. Transgender crisis line launches in Canada A crisis hotline for transgender people has expanded to Canada, offering counselling from transgender volunteers. Trans Lifeline was launched in San Francisco by Greta Martela, who is a transgender woman. The hotline had a soft launch in the U.S. in September, with its official launch on the Transgender Day of Remembrance on November 20. Martela was approached by Toronto-based transgender activist Sophia Banks, who asked what it would take for the service to expand to Canada. "We looked into it, and it didn't look like it would require much, so we went ahead and did it." The Canadian number has been active for about two weeks, and in that time Martela said it has received more than 100 calls. The service is run by volunteers, all of whom are trans-identified. "It's hard for somebody who is not trans to understand all of the things that transgender people go through," said Martela. She said the nature of the calls are different from those that would normally be received on another crisis line. "One of the things that's different about what trans people are having is that a lot of times they're external," she said. In the month of December operators talked to people calling both the Canadian and U.S. lines for a total of 672 hours. Martela says there has been no shortage of volunteers. "We're having the opposite problem. We can't train our volunteers as quickly as they're volunteering. We've got at the moment about 70 trained operators, but we have something like 400 operators waiting to be trained," Martela said. "2014 was a wonderful year for trans rights, but it's still pretty hard to be a trans person really no matter where you are. It seems like societal acceptance is slowly coming, but it's slow." To reach the Trans Lifeline toll-free from anywhere in Canada, dial 1-877-330-6366. Fla newspaper calls Pam Bondi a ‘modern-day Anita Bryant,’ names her ‘loser of the year’ TAMPA, Fla. — Calling her a modern-day Anita Bryant, The Tampa Bay Times has named Florida Attorney General Pam Bondi its “Loser” of the year, citing her “relentless defense” of the state’s same-sex marriage ban, which has been declared unconstitutional by a federal judge and four state judges. Pam Bondi. It’s hard to imagine how someone who won re-election so handily (rival George Sheldon could not afford a single TV ad) could emerge from 2014 more wounded and diminished as our Republican attorney general. Put aside the unseemly junkets funded by groups seeking to influence her. Bondi’s clumsy communication skills and relentless defense of Florida’s gay marriage ban have made her a modern-day Anita Bryant. Antagonizing Florida’s gay voters over same-sex marriage and Hispanic voters over immigration reform ensures Bondi has a bright political future ahead of her — if she moves to Mississippi. Bryant is an outspoken opponent of LGBT rights who in 1977 In 1977 led a highly publicized campaign to repeal an ordinance passed in Dade County, Fla., that prohibited discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation.. The Midterms Were Worse Than You Think If there’s one thing the 2014 midterms demonstrated, it’s that the LGBT movement is in political trouble. No, not simply because Republicans swept the nation. It’s worse. We were virtually nowhere in the discourse. Some analysts took this as a welcome turn of events. “It’s the end of the wedge!” they proclaimed. True. But it also meant that our political agenda — whatever that might be — got exactly zero airtime. Perhaps that’s because, aside from winning marriage equality, no one really knows what our political agenda is anymore. 58 At the outset of the 2008 election, the battle lines on LGBT issues were already clearly drawn: hate crimes, employment protections, repealing “don’t ask, don’t tell,” overturning the Defense of Marriage Act, and eventually seeking marriage equality. Those goals have now been gutted either because they’ve been accomplished or are on their way to success — or, in the case of the Employee Non-Discrimination Act, have simply lost unified support within the movement. What’s left to rally around? Not much at the moment. Politically speaking, there’s still plenty of work to be done to achieve equality for LGBT Americans outside marriage. Slowly but surely, the mainstream media are starting to catch on to the fact that same-sex couples can now legally marry in some states where they can also be legally fired or denied housing based on sexual orientation or gender identity. This is a message that increasingly needs to be pushed to the forefront as our legal eagles blaze a path toward providing the freedom to marry in all 50 states. But we need a new bill — or bills — because ENDA has lost the confidence of many people in the community. (It seemed unlikely to pass during the lame duck session at the time of this writing.) Perhaps a bill will have surfaced by the time this article publishes. Last July, HRC President Chad Griffin endorsed a comprehensive LGBT civil rights bill that would ensure equity in employment, education, housing, public accommodations, and credit. But we need an all-hands-on-deck effort to get behind such an effort and raise its profile. That includes leadership from groups, hard questions from activists, a constant push to get the attention of mainstream journalists, and campaign pledges from the 2016 candidates. Even if the groups can’t agree on a bill, we should still be asking politicians how they plan to equalize treatment for all LGBT Americans. Supporting marriage equality is not enough. Most important, the legislative landscape in which the next president will maneuver is being created right now. And the LGBT movement has already fallen behind the curve. Children’s transgender clinic offers support to teens and their families CINCINNATI -- The suicide of Kings Mills teenager Leelah Alcorn put the spotlight on issues facing transgender teenagers and raised questions for some parents. The Cincinnati’s Children’s Hospital Medical Center is gaining attention as one place with possible answers. For almost a year-and-a-half the Transgender Health Clinic at Children’s has helped hundreds in the transgender community. “Transgender people have been around a long time, so it's really nothing new, but I think today more and more kids are actually coming out and disclosing their gender identity,” said Sarah Painer, a social worker with the clinic. “Like Leelah, though, the effect on the family dynamic can be very difficult . . . so Children's offers help to parents too.” In a suicide note Alcorn set to publish online after she placed herself in front of a semi-truck Sunday, Dec. 28 on Interstate 71 in Warren County, the 17-year-old described feelings of despair with her parents for not supporting her. Painer said Children's clinic has seen patients from 5 to 24 with a wide emotional range, some of whom felt like Leelah felt. “I've seen patients feeling very empowered and encouraged,” she said. “I've also seen patients sort of dealing with their own sadness and their own distress.” Medical staff, counselors, and social workers such as Painer are part of the clinic’s approach to helping transgender people and loved ones. That includes approaching religious beliefs, some of which Alcorn mentioned in her note, and gender identity. “Instead of saying (to family), ‘Ok, great, just accept this,’ and force this on families there's a lot of religious communities in our area who are able and willing to work with families and help them figure out how does this contradict with their value system and how can they work to try to find that middle ground to still love and care for your child while you're working on understanding,” Painer said. Anyone looking for support, or resources can call 513-636-4681 for information. And click on the link below for a list of other support resources. 59 Oregon Starts Insurance For Transgender Medical Procedures This January, the Oregon Health Plan starts covering the cost of reassignment surgery for transgender people. It also helps cover the cost of hormone therapy and puberty suppression. Some politicians question the use of tax payer money, but people in the transgender community call it ground breaking. Oregon joins California, Massachusetts, Washington D.C. and Vermont as jurisdictions where Medicaid covers medical treatments for gender dysphoria. By looking at medical billing data, the state estimates at least 175 people will use the new coverage this year. “People with gender dysphoria that did not receive treatment had a much higher rate of hospitalizations or ER visits or doctor visits for depression and anxiety,” said commission director, Dr. Ariel Smits. “And they had a pretty significantly high suicide attempt rate — some studies found about 30 percent. But folks when they received the treatment that they felt was adequate for their gender dysphoria, had an almost normal rate of depression and anxiety compared to the general population.” Their suicide rate also dropped significantly. While the coverage begins this month, Basic Rights Oregon says it may take the state a while to line up services. Saks Fifth Avenue Shockingly Claims It Has A Right To Discriminate Against Transgender Employees Saks Fifth Avenue received a score of 90 on the Human Rights Campaign's most recent Corporate Equality Index. But attorneys for a former employee who's suing the department store chain say it isn't living up to that score. Transgender woman Leyth O. Jamal a former sales associate for Saks Fifth Avenue at Houston's Galleria mall, filed a lawsuit in September against the company, alleging wrongful termination based on sex in violation of Title VII of the federal Civil Rights Act of 1964, in addition to a hostile work environment, retaliation and breach of contract. In court filings responding to Jamal's lawsuit, attorneys for Saks shockingly allege that Jamal isn't protected against discrimination under Title VII. The court filings also misgender Jamal and argue that Saks isn't bound by the nondiscrimination policy in its employee handbook, which includes gender identity. Attorney Jillian T. Weiss (right), co-counsel for Jamal, said in a statement that Saks is essentially claiming that “transgender people shouldn’t have protection from discrimination in the workplace.” “Saks is touting its high score on the Human Rights Campaign's Corporate Equality Index, including its gender identity protections, and then arguing that its trans employees aren't entitled to expect it to deliver on that promise," Weiss said. In July 2012, Jamal filed an EEOC complaint, alleging discrimination based on gender. Ten days later, she was fired, prompting her to amend the complaint to include a charge of retaliation. Several of Jamal's co-workers corroborated her claims, and the EECO concluded: “Based upon the evidence, the Commission concludes that Charging Party was subjected to intimidation and harassment based on sex (male), and because of failure to conform to stereotypical male behavior in the workplace, in violation of Title VII. Further, the Commission concludes that Respondent has an unlawful policy or practice which denies employees access to restroom facilities consistent with their gender identity, in violation of Title VII.” In its response, Saks denies many of Jamal's allegations, but admits she was required to use the men's restroom. Study Reveals Same-Sex Couples Divorcing Much Less Than Different-Sex Couples Same-sex couples really like marriage. That's the news from the Williams Institute at UCLA School of Law, which studied the rate of marriage and divorce of same-sex couples in the year since the Supreme Court struck down part of DOMA. 60 A major finding reveals that currently, same-sex couples are about half as likely to divorce as different-sex couples. And same-sex couples married at a rate about double in 2013 versus in 2102. Married same-sex couples are divorcing at a 1.1 percent rate, compared to a 2 percent rate of different-sex couples, the Williams Institute notes. "In early 2014, the Williams Institute collected administrative data on marriages, civil unions, and domestic partnerships of same-sex couples in the 23 states that offered these statuses at the time data collection began," the study finds. "Two states provided data on divorces: New Hampshire and Vermont. Six states provided data on civil union and domestic partnership terminations: California, D.C, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Washington, and Wisconsin." When the study was expanded to all legal relationships in eight states, like civil unions and domestic partnerships, the rate of dissolution grew to 1.6 percent annually. The Williams Institute also found differences in female same-sex couples versus male same-sex couples. "The first analysis shows that female couples are more likely to formalize their relationships than male couples. Female couples account for just over half (51%) of all same-sex couples in the U.S. However, data from the state agencies show that 64% of same-sex couples who entered into legal statuses were female couples." The study also finds that the SCOTUS decision last summer greatly impacted the decision to marry, even in couples who lived in marriage equality states. Calling it "the Windsor effect," they note that the "data show that the number of same-sex couples who married nearly doubled in marriage equality states from 2012 to 2013." Different sides to the dating game: A look into the trials and tribulations of dating as a transperson Dating can be a daunting prospect to many people, but entering the scene after recently changing one’s identity to align with one’s gender is an even bigger challenge. However, Emily Watson, who started her transition from a man to a woman in March 2013, said that the challenges she faced were similar to what she faced when dating as a gay man in the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender (LGBT) community. She said that while being in the community itself presents difficulties, especially when the extra challenges of being transgender “pile on,” for the most part she has had experience dating in the gay culture and that her experiences were very similar. “It’s mostly about finding like-minded individuals who are open to the sort of thing,” Watson said. “One thing I always faced when I was dating when I identified as gay was that I had an issue with just knowing who is gay.” Finding someone who is open to having a hetero-normative relationship isn’t easy, and Watson said that dating gay men or lesbians isn’t an option because they aren’t interested in being in a relationship with a woman or a man. Alternatively, it’s hard getting into relationships with straight men or women because they are more often than not uninterested in dating a transperson. Watson said that she finds her dating pool very limited and “pretty much restricted to bisexual people, but I mean, there are always exceptions.” Watson, who identified as a gay male before transitioning, said that dating as a transgender requires being more cautious. “Being a transperson dating, especially in areas that aren’t as progressive, you really kind of have to stay closeted,” she said. “That’s just a huge obstacle to surmount, so honestly your dating pool is really limited to your friends.” “A dude dating a dude is definitely different from a woman dating a dude, so it’s not just kind of a palette swap, as it were.” “The other big issue is that if you start dating someone, and they think [you are] male and or female, at what point do [you] say, well, I’m not fully male or I’m not fully female.” Undergoing hormones and reconstructive surgery can have a huge 61 impact on whether or not a person is interested in dating. Oxenbury said that it changes how a person acts in a relationship, how they are with that person, how sexual they are with that person, and if their partner is accepting of it. “Dating really goes quite a lot further than just ‘Do I get out there and see somebody and meet somebody?’” Watson is currently in a relationship with a ciswoman [a non-trans woman]. They met through a friend, and after meeting and talking on Facebook, discovered they had a lot of common interests. “That relationship has been going very well. I’ve been with her for a little over a year now.” For people who aren’t interested in dating at the moment, Oxenbury said that they should still make contact with people who are going through a similar experience to develop friendships and get advice. She encourages people to use open communication and find support to work out their issues and emotions through the transition. Watson said that her advice to transgender people looking to re-enter the dating scene is to find people with common interests. Laws Proposed to Protect Trans Youth As Leelah Alcorn's Death Rallies Thousands She called herself Leelah Alcorn, and now people around the world who never knew the girl from Kings Mills, Ohio, have turned her name into a rallying cry against transgender conversion therapy. Their goal is to make her final wish a reality: “Fix Society. Please.” Hours after the 17-year old transgender teenager from suburban Cincinnati stepped in front of a tractor trailer early Sunday, a new entry appeared as scheduled on her lazerprincess blog on tumblr, titled Suicide Note, followed by another post topped with one word in all caps: SORRY. In her suicide note, Alcorn explained how her parents punished her for coming out to them as trans at age 14, and how they would only take her to “Christian therapists” to treat her depression. At the bottom, she crossed out her birth name, yet her parents, school officials and local news media continue to refer to her as Joshua Ryan Alcorn. But once Leelah's scheduled post went live on tumblr, WCPO-TV reported Ohio Highway Patrol officials announced they are investigating the 2:30 a.m. accident as a suicide. Alcorn’s stated preference was to be remembered as Leelah: “I’m transgender… I feel like a girl trapped in a boy’s body, and I’ve felt that way ever since I was 4… When I was 14, I learned what transgender meant and cried of happiness. After 10 years of confusion I finally understood who I was.” Alcorn wrote that her mom “reacted extremely negatively, telling me that it was a phase, that I would never truly be a girl, that God doesn’t make mistakes, that I am wrong.” Transgender activist Jennifer Louise Lopez said research by her group, Everything Transgender in New York City (ETNYC), found a 58 percent family rejection rate toward transgender people who come out of the closet and a 41 percent suicide rate. "The suicide of Ms. Alcorn tells us that we will have a lot of work to do in the community to greatly reduce these statistics," Lopez said. “The only way I will rest in peace,” Alcorn wrote, “is if one day transgender people aren’t treated the way I was, they’re treated like humans, with valid feelings and human rights. Gender needs to be taught about in schools, the earlier the better. My death needs to mean something. My death needs to be counted in the number of transgender people who commit suicide this year. I want someone to look at that number and say ‘that’s fucked up’ and fix it.” There is now a change.org petition aimed at doing just that, by enacting what is being called Leelah’s Law. The Transgender Human Rights Institute, based in Princeton, N.J., issued a news release on the transviolencetracker.org website: “We the petitioners call upon the President of the United State Barack Obama, and the Leadership of the House and Senate to immediately seek a pathway for banning the practice known as 'transgender conversion therapy'. We ask that you name the bill in memory of Leelah as the Leelah's Alcorn Law and protect the lives of transgender youth.” 62 The organization cites several leading authorities who have taken a stand against conversion therapy, including the National Association of Social Workers, who wrote that it “cannot and will not change sexual orientation.” At presstime, the petition had more than 93,000 signatures. Another petition, calling for Alcorn's headstone to bear her chosen name, has more than 36,000 names attached. Holder paves way for transgenders in military The Justice Department will now interpret the Civil Rights Act of 1964 as protecting transgender government employees from discrimination, Attorney General Eric Holder announced last week. The decision is a reversal of the department’s prior position on the matter. Immediately after the announcement, an activist group called the American Military Partner Association immediately began pushing for an end to the ban on transgenders serving in the military. “The Supreme Court and the Attorney General have made it clear that workplace discrimination against transgender people is not only wrong, but unlawful,” AMPA President Ashley Broadway said in a statement. “While the Defense Department follows a different set of rules, there is no valid reason that our transgender troops should continue to be prohibited from serving openly and honestly. The ban continues to harm our military families, military readiness and ultimately the mission. The Secretary of Defense should do the right thing and immediately order the review of the current outdated regulations that he said he was open to back in May.” Retired U.S. Army Col. Bob Maginnis has been directly involved in the debate over “gays” in the military for more 20 years. In 1993, he testified before the Pentagon’s 1993 Military Working Group that eventually adopted the “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell” approach to the ban on homosexuals in the military. Maginnis also served as a senior adviser to Lt. Gen. John Otjen, the senior member of that working group. Maginnis told WND this policy would apply to people who have undergone surgery and those simply in conflict over their gender. “We’re talking about people called transsexuals. In other words, they’ve had sex-change surgery. Others are transvestites, they’re cross-dressers. Others are drag queens and drag kings and people that just cross-dress for the entertainment,” said Maginnis, who believes this is simply the latest item on the agenda for those who succeeded in overturning “Don’t Ask.” It remains to be seen whether Holder’s shift in the interpretation of sex-discrimination laws is ignored, will require congressional action to enact or whether the administration will try to change policy on its own. Discovery Life Channel explores lives in transition with transgender series ‘New Girls On The Block’ premiering April 2 PASADENA, Calif.—Discovery Life Channel has announce that New Girls On The Block, previously announced under the working title Those Girls, will premiere April 2. New Girls On The Block follows a group of highly inspirational and entertaining women from Kansas City, Mo. – all friends, some couples – who just happen to be transgender. After years of struggling with their gender identities, they are finally finding themselves and learning what it means to be the women they always knew they were. Confronting issues with their relationships, their femininity, their families and friendships, New Girls On The Block is an authentic look at lives in transition. The six-part series will premiere on Discovery Life Channel Thursday, April 2 at 10/9c. As the first series to embed with a real group of friends within the transgender community, New Girls On The Block offers a transformative look at these women’s lives as they navigate their daily struggles and successes. The series profiles cast members such as: couple AiYana and Jaimie who, following Jaime’s departure from the military, face opposition to her participation in competitive triathlons as a woman; best girlfriends Kassidy and Chloe, who are navigating their transitions together and experiencing many firsts, including their first double date; married couple Macy and Sharon, who are still in love and trying to understand what Macy’s recent transition means for their relationship; and Robyn and Andrew, best friends who fell in love after Robyn’s transition and find themselves at odds over whether it’s time to get engaged. “With New Girls On The Block, Discovery Life Channel looks to provide a bridge to a world of acceptance of the transgender community through our honest portrayal – and entertaining look – at these women’s lives.” 63 DOJ Solidifies Protection for Transgender Rights While the American workplace is often notoriously inhospitable to transgender Americans, the federal government last month moved decisively to change that. In a new memorandum, the Department of Justice explicitly clarified that gender identity discrimination claims are covered under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act. This is another important step forward in the ongoing fight for basic fairness and equal treatment under the law for transgender Americans. As important as these protections are, they certainly do not negate the need for clear and explicit laws that protect LGBT people from discrimination in the workplace as well as in other aspects of public life. Such laws leave no room for ambiguity, and they also demonstrate a concrete commitment on the part of the U.S. government to eradicating discrimination against individuals on the basis of both their sexual orientation and gender identity. The ACLU also continues to work in courts across the country to ensure that Title VII and other existing laws against sex discrimination are interpreted to include transgender people. Judge Rules Against Florist Who Didn't Want to Serve Gays RICHLAND, Wash. -- A judge has decided the state of Washington has the authority to bring a consumer protection lawsuit against a florist who refused to provide flowers for a gay wedding. Benton County Superior Court Judge Alex Ekstrom also ruled Wednesday that the owner of the Richland, Washington, flower shop can be held personally liable for violating the Consumer Protection Act. Barronelle Stutzman and her shop, Arlene's Flowers, are being sued for refusing to sell flowers for a 2013 same-sex wedding. The state attorney general is asking for a permanent injunction requiring Stutzman and her shop to comply with the consumer protection law. State lawyer’s ‘bullying’ of gay student not protected by 1st Amendment DETROIT — A state attorney fired for an anti-gay campaign against a college student can’t collect unemployment benefits, the Michigan appeals court says, rejecting claims that his off-hours activities were protected by the First Amendment. The attorney general’s office was justified in firing Andrew Shirvell in 2010 because his posts on Facebook and an anti-gay blog, as well as his campus visits and TV appearances, clearly had an adverse impact on the agency’s credibility, the court said in a 3-0 decision released Friday. “The department, as the chief law enforcement agency in the state, represents all of the citizens of Michigan irrespective of race, gender, sexual orientation, religion or creed. … Shirvell’s conduct reasonably could have created the impression that neither he nor the department enforced the law in a fair, even-handed manner without bias,” the court said. There’s no dispute that Shirvell targeted Chris Armstrong, an openly gay student government president at the University of Michigan. Shirvell appeared on local and national TV shows to defend his blog and criticize what he called Armstrong’s “radical homosexual agenda.” In a separate matter, a federal jury in 2012 ordered Shirvell to pay $4.5 million to Armstrong for defamation and emotional distress. An appeal is pending. “You cannot expect to behave in such an outrageous, illegal, harmful, menacing manner and think that your employer is going to keep you on board as a government employee and it’s not going to affect how you’re perceived by the public,” Gordon said. 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 y r a u r b e e c F an s is ie V M bb o B February 2015 Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28
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