Lembeh Top 10 creatures

destination
A SilkAir Destination
By Richard Smith
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Lembeh Strait:
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he Lembeh Strait is a narrow channel
of water between Lembeh Island and
the mainland of North Sulawesi. This
unassuming stretch of water has some of
the most unique diving the world has to
offer, with unexpected creatures lurking
on every sponge, seafan and coral.
In case you’re not familiar with the
area, Lembeh is best known for muck
diving, which may not sound particularly
attractive, but can easily become an allconsuming passion. The term refers to
diving in murky, relatively non-pretty
conditions for the purpose of searching
for small, often highly camouflaged
critters. Aficionados almost certainly
develop a “must-see” list of the unique
animals that they absolutely want to find.
I’m a muck-diving addict, and to
give you an idea of what Lembeh
has to offer, here’s my personal Top
10 list (Though if it weren’t for the
limits on space, this would probably
be more like a Top 50 list!).
Top 10 Must-See List
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a. Weedy scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa). This large individual was living under
a large coral outcrop at 8m depth, which is quite shallow for this species.
b.A weedy scorpionfish which was living in a large patch of Halimeda algae
a. b.
Rhinopias Scorpionfish
Rhinopias frondosa and Rhinopias eschmeyeri
There are few places in the world where these magnificent scorpionfish
can be regularly encountered, and Lembeh is one of them. Of the six
species of Rhinopias, there are two found in the strait. Both can reach up to
20-25cm in length and are found on gently sloping coral and rubble reefs.
R. frondosa, the weedy scorpionfish, is slightly more common than its
cousin R. eschmeyeri, the paddle-flap scorpionfish. Both species can take
on just about any colour, depending on their surroundings, but they can
easily be distinguished by the amount of skin ornamentation present
over the body and head. The paddle-flap species has a smooth body and
fin edges and usually is a single uniform colour. The weedy species, as its
name suggests, is covered in small skin flaps and filaments, making its
outline much harder to distinguish.
Sites: Air Perang, Angel’s Window, Nudi Falls
Depth: 8 to >40m
Habitat Preference: Sloping coral or rubble reefs often sitting in a
prominent location
Paddle-flap scorpionfish (Rhinopias eschmeyeri)
are easily distinguished from the weedy species
by the lack of skin filaments.
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Ambon scorpionfish
(Pteroidichthys
amboinensis) are also
sometimes called Bugs
Bunny scorpionfish
after the appendages
over their eyes.
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Ambon Scorpionfish
Pteroidichthys amboinensis
Named after an island in the Moluccas
group of central Indonesia, this ornate
species can occasionally be found
in Lembeh. The huge cirri (long skin
extensions) above the eyes are quite
astounding and help distinguish it
from other species. These elongated
appendages have given them an
alternate common name of “Bugs Bunny”
scorpionfish, which seems to suit them.
Rhinomuraena quaesita
While this is a fairly common species
throughout the Asia-Pacific region,
the rare yellow form appears to be
relatively more common here. I visited
one site several times where two
large, bright-yellow ribbon eels were
living two feet apart. One morning I
went to this spot to find both cosily
living in a single hole. A yellow blue
ribbon eel seems like a contradiction
in terms but the yellow form is female,
and the more common blue phase
male. There’s also a bicolour black and
yellow phase, which is the juvenile.
Individuals begin life as black and yellow,
then change to blue and finally to yellow.
Changing sex during a lifetime is quite
common on the reef and in this case, it’s
known as protandry, as the fish begins
life as a male followed by a change to
female. Species that begin as female and
change to male are referred to as being
protogynous.
Since these cirri hide their eyes, the
fish can easily be mistaken for algae or
weed, like many creatures in Lembeh,
but a closer look will reveal the fish. If
one Ambon is found, take some time to
search the surrounding area, since they
usually live in pairs and are no more than
a few metres apart.
Sites: Madidir, Hairball, Retak Larry
Depth: 8–30m
Habitat Preference: Silty and soft
sediment sites on gentle slopes
Blue Ribbon Eel
Male blue ribbon eels (Rhinomuraena quaesita)
are blue and yellow in colour whereas females
are yellow.
Sites: Police Pier, Angel’s Window and
any reef with coral growth and sandy areas
Depth: 10–25m
Habitat Preference: Reefs with coral
growth, where the eels can live in sandy
burrows
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Hairy Frogfish
Sharon Y. K. Yong
Air Asia Berhad
Antennarius striatus
The hairy frogfish is a variation of the
striped frogfish, which can also have a smooth skin texture. The hairy form
is commonly found in Lembeh, often
near similarly coloured and textured soft
corals or algae, occurring in black, white
and pink colour forms. The frogfish has a.
a worm-like, fleshy lure, which it waves in front of its mouth, awaiting a curious
or hungry fish to approach closely, at
which point it opens its huge mouth,
sucking in the hapless fish.
One morning I was lucky enough to
observe a face-off between a small
mantis shrimp and hairy frogfish, which
occurred as the fish strayed too close to b.
the shrimp’s hole. The mantis left the
hole and attacked the frogfish with its
sharp arm spines until the fish backed off.
SAY NO TO SHARK FIN
Sites: Air Perang, Pantai Parigi, TK3
Depth: 10–40m
Habitat Preference: Sloping sandy
areas usually with some soft coral or
algal patches
Muck diving is the bread-and-butter
of tourism in Lembeh, so don’t visit
expecting pristine reefs. At first
glance, the bottles, cans, shoes, ropes
and other things that litter many dive
sites may horrify you. Bitung is an
economically important and bustling
port and is the source of much of
All employees and shareholders of have chosen — we abstain from consuming sharkfin.
c.
a. The hairy variation of the striped
frogfish (Antennarius striatus)
is often found living near soft
coral colonies in Lembeh.
b.This hairy frogfish strayed too
close to the hole of a small
mantis shrimp so the shrimp
attacked the unsuspecting fish.
c. The smooth phase of the hairy
frogfish can also be found in
areas where there is a lack of
filamentous algae and soft corals.
d. Hairy frogfish sometimes
seek refuge next to urchins
to break up their outline.
this waste, but Lembeh’s underwater
residents appear to embrace the rubbish.
A wine bottle might be the perfect
home for an octopus. An old bag of
nachos might provide a challenge for a
ghost pipefish to mimic, or an old boot
might house a small moray eel. This is
the way of life in Lembeh, and while
d.
it may not be natural or encouraged,
the organisms of Lembeh seem to
approve of these new reef structures.
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a.
d.
b.
e.
c.
a. The solar powered nudibranch (Phyllodesmium
longicirrum) can reach 20cm in length.
b.Ceratosoma tenue laying eggs on the sand
c. Euselenops luniceps uses its huge half moon shaped
head to seek out prey.
d. Flabellina rubrolineolata is an especially beautiful
reef dwelling nudibranch.
e. Bursatella leachi are generally quite rare and
therefore do not have a common name.
Wunderpus
Wunderpus photogenicus
I had never seen a wunderpus before
visiting Lembeh, so my ears perked up
when the guide mentioned them during
a briefing. The striking rusty-brown
and white coloured octopus isn’t shy
and can be seen moving around the
reef at dusk and dawn while searching
for crustaceans and other prey. They
hunt by flaring their arms and webbing
over small rocks and holes, and then
searching the area beneath with their
arm tips in an attempt to find their prey
within. I was ecstatic to finally see one
and was not disappointed by its display.
Sites: Tandu Rusa, TK3, Air Perang
Depth: 10–20m
Habitat Preference: Varied habitat
tolerance from sandy patches to coralrich areas
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Unusual Nudibranchs
For nudibranch lovers, there is no
beating Lembeh for the diversity of
species that can be found, and there
are new treasures to be found at every
site. For instance, the solar powered
slug (Phyllodesmium longicirrum) can
occasionally be seen feasting on soft
corals from which it extracts microscopic
algae. These algae are then relocated to
the processes, called cerata, on the back,
allowing the slug to sunbathe and gather
energy as the algae photosynthesise,
providing the slug with nutrients.
Another highlight for me was the
nocturnal slug Euselenops luniceps, of
which I saw half a dozen at TK3. The
unusual half-moon shape of the head
and spotted colouration are its most
distinctive features, and it actively glides
over the sandy surface as if hovering.
Sites: All
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Wide range of
habitats from sand to coral
Wunderpus octopuses (Wunderpus
photogenicus) can change their
colouration to blend into the substrate.
Bumblebee shrimp (Phyllognathia ceratophthalmus)
are stunning shrimp that are usually found in pairs on
sponge- or coral-dominated reefs.
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Whitemargin stargazers (Uranoscopus sulphureus)
rarely can be found swimming freely and are
identified by the large black spot on the dorsal fin.
Bumblebee Shrimp
Phyllognathia ceratophthalmus
Bumblebee shrimp can easily be
distinguished from other shrimp by the
vibrant colours and intricate patterning
of orange patches and small blue spots
over a beige background. This species
is most frequently found around small
coral or sponge outcrops where pairs
tend to inhabit a small home range. They
are quite shy, and patience is required
before the shrimp can be seen straying
from their small lair, which is usually an
overhang or hole in the reef.
a.
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Juvenile Fish
Lembeh is a nursery ground for many
different fish. Both common reef fish and
more unusual species are found here,
and the contrast between juvenile and
adult forms can be quite stark. Juveniles
are usually more colourful or highly
camouflaged than adults. Colouration is
a form of protection from predators, as
colourful critters tend to be either toxic
or mimic a toxic species. In addition,
well-camouflaged juveniles are able to
avoid the attention of predators. The
highlight in Lembeh for me was finding
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b.
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Sites: Police Pier, TK1
Depth: 5–20m
Habitat Preference:
Coral or sponge reef
Stargazers
Uranoscopus spp.
Stargazers really are menacing-looking
fish, and must strike terror into the hearts
of Lembeh’s small fish. As they lurk with
their bodies covered by the substrate,
all that gives them away are their large
eyes and sinister smile protruding from
the sand. They wait patiently in this pose
for hours on end using their tongue,
which is modified to resemble a worm, to
attract fish to within striking range. A row
of teeth then impales prey and prevents
escape. If stargazers were any larger, I would have to reconsider diving!
Sites: Madidir, TK3, Hairball
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Sandy or muddy
sites, most often seen at night
juvenile barramundis, which closely
resemble the pattern of a Dalmation. I saw several of these brilliant juveniles
around Police Pier, ranging in size from
2.5-cm long individuals with oversized
fins and a flamenco swimming style to
larger adolescents with more subdued
colouration.
a. Juvenile Batavia batfish (Platax batavianus) are intricately patterned with black and white bands.
b.Juvenile flying gurnards (Dactyloptena orientalis) have very prominent false eye spots on the pectoral
fins which deter larger fish from attacking the seemingly “bigger” fish
c. This juvenile sole was quite striking against the black sand and appears to be undescribed.
d. The coat of the barramundi (Cromileptes altivelis) would have Cruella De Vil green with envy.
e. A juvenile black-saddled toby (Canthigaster valentini) seeking refuge among branches of soft coral
f. Juvenile warty frogfish (Antennarius maculatus) are highly photogenic.
Sites: All
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Most often
found around small coral bommies, or among seagrass or algae
c.
d. e.
f.
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New and Undescribed
Species
One of the most amazing features of
diving in Lembeh is that you never know
what you might find. Sites change, and
while one may be “hot” for some time, a new site with a different array of critters
will no doubt be ready for your next visit.
Lembeh has the potential to surprise
even veteran divers and guides. Earlier
this year, a brand new species of pygmy
pipehorse was discovered here, which
might turn out to be a new genus.
Reaching only three centimetres in
length and as thin as a piece of string,
this diminutive syngnathid swims like
a sea dragon but holds onto small
hydroids or algae with a prehensile tail.
Fact File
MANADO
NORTH
SULAWESI
SilkAir operates regular international flights from Singapore to Manado. Various domestic Indonesian
carriers, including Garuda, Merpati and Lion Air,
fly to Manado from several hubs including Bali,
Jakarta and Sorong.
Diving is possible year-round in the strait due to
the protection afforded by Lembeh Island. There is
some seasonality to the critters, so the critters you
see can vary depending on the time of year. While
a 3mm suit may be sufficient for some people, the
water temperatures are generally slightly lower than
Manado reefs, some people may require a 5mm suit.
AVG TEMP
30˚c
I believe you will get more out of
your trip if you take the effort to
learn a little about the local culture
and interact with local people.
Learning a few basic words and
phrases of the local language,
Bahasa Indonesia, will be greatly
appreciated by local residents:
Please Tolong
Thank you Terima kasih
Yes Ya
No Tidak
Good Bagus
Already Sudah
Not yet Belum
One Satu
Two Dua
Three Tiga
Good morning Selamat pagi
Good afternoon Selamat siang
Good evening Selamat sore
Good night Selamat malam
Goodbye Sampai jumpa
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AVG RAINFALL (CM)
40
30
25˚c
GSM coverage with international roaming
capability is available. Internet connection is
available at some resorts.
230V, 50Hz. 110V is also
available at many resorts
and liveaboards.
PLUGS
Indonesian Rupiah, but some resorts will accept
US$ or even Euros. Tipping is not generally
practiced but is appreciated.
No vaccinations are required but avoiding biting
insects is always to be encouraged. Travellers
from yellow fever areas are required to have a
valid yellow fever vaccination certificate. Care
should be taken while diving due to the number of
scorpionfish and stonefish that hide in the sand.
GMT + 8 hrs
20
20˚c
15˚c
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This species has now also been found
at Wakatobi in southern Sulawesi too,
which just illustrates how much remains
to be discovered in these rich Indonesian
waters. So keep searching!
LEMBEH
BITUNG
Passports must be valid for at least six months, and
if a visa is required, a blank page in your passport
is also needed. Citizens for non-ASEAN countries
require a US$25 visa on arrival for stays between
three and thirty days. Departure taxes have recently
increased to Rp 150,000 for international flights.
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
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OCT
NOV
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INDONESIA
The swimming style of this undescribed species is
similar to that of the Australian seadragons.
A SilkAir Destination
Sites: Any
Depth: Shallows to the depths
Habitat Preference: Check out any
and all habitats.
special thanks to the staff at Diver’s Lodge
Lembeh. My guide, Ungke, had amazing enthusiasm
for Lembeh’s bountiful organisms and humoured my
endless searches for hard-to-find critters!
From the author
www.oceanrealmimages.com
“While each muck dive location has its own array of
unique creatures, I think you would be hard-pressed
to beat Lembeh. Both times I’ve visited, I’ve seen
Richard Smith countless new species and behaviours. Plus, the ease
of diving and sheltered conditions make it great at any
time of year. I’ve already planned my next visit!”
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